Scaled up the 30g filament print to 110% for my Prusa Mk3S+. Completely filled the print bed. Re-printed to homogenize the colors with a 1.2 extrusion multiplier. Worked perfect! thanks so much for this video and the .stl files!
A similar idea would be to use the extruder to push out thin threads and braid them together. Theoretically, it could be made practical with a mechanical weaving tool. Print out the threads one at a time and wind them under tension (as you would with a real filament extruder), then braid. Tight twists makes a mixed colour. No twist results in your bi-directional colour effect. Better yet, because it's braided, the poor tolerances of extruding the threads might average out to give you a more consistent diameter. And ofc, you could print a whole spool (... eventually). Another idea I have from this is to print a slinky. With the right offset you can separate the layers, with the colour split concentrically. This might get you a longer length of filament. Not sure how practical that is, however, as printing a slinky is a feat of its own.
Hello Sunshine, I tested your 30 gram filament yesterday and the day before. I was always held back by the underextrusion in your tests. After printing, I measured the diameter of the filament at the beginning, in the middle and at the end, with a caliper. I measured 4 times per measuring section. Horizontally, vertically and diagonally opposite. I added up all the results and divided them by all the measuring points to get the average value. I entered this average diameter in Prusa Slicer under Filament. The printouts are just as good as from the standard filament. However, I printed with a prusa mk3s+. Perhaps it is also due to the direct extruder that I have no underextrusion. Even in vase mode it is very nice to look at. I will upload some photos and possibly a video soon. Kind regards juck.
Love the video! This hexagon idea inspired me to create my own filament, so I started to experiment with it. Got some decent results and I was even able to create a multicolor rainbow version with gradients. Thank you very much for this idea!
I actually have an idea with this... What if you could calculate how much filament each layer is going to take and, with this method, make sections of the 3D printed filament which are that exact color? Means if, say, an eye has to be printed in white the filament beforehand was black all the time but at the exact moment the printer prints the eyes of the model it'll have the white section of the filament there. Almost like those "filament cutters" that are already on the market, just with a ton more math :D
Hello! Came back to this video just to say that Cura 5 made slicing this spiral way more acurate. With variable layer width and new slicing engine now the spiral slices in continuous lines (no infill diagonal lines) and represents way better the shape of the hexagon. Thanks for the idea! testing it as I write this..
This is already a cool concept... But, hear me out. What if we did the same thing, but tested out printing the core out of different materials to see if there are any mechanical advantages to this. For example, printing with a carbon fiber PLA core for stiffness, and ABS outside for heat and UV deflection...
after first print , in the second for fusion the colors in one need up the flow? or up the flow after 2 prints from filament.stl? thanks bro ! nice work
Nice vid ! I'm not sure if you mentioned it in the vid but what's the size of filament you're using ? And did you experience any issues with jamming ? (I'd imagine the new filament shape could cause some issues with the extrusion mechanism not getting a proper grip on the slightly odd shape)
Oh shit! you are right! I totally forgot to mention that! I'll add it right away to the Thingiverse page and description. In this case its designed to work with 1.75mm filament. The size is made a little smaller then normal 1.75mm filament, (thats why you have to give it more Flow), so jams should not be any major concern, however this is again very dependent on how well you can print the filament.
@@TurboSunShine Nice video and idea to make your own custom colors. I will try this and post a make on TV when I get to it. As to prints sticking to glass... I used the stock bed (which had a low point in the middle that I used the tinfoil trick) for a week, then bought the 4 pack of 300x300mm mirrors at IKEA for $9.99 (also found at Lowe's) and cut them down the Ender 3 size. If your print has a large base, you shouldn't need anything other than a good cleaning with 91% IPA. For prints with small pieces attached to the bed, use Aqua Net hairspray - spray on the mirror like you're spray painting a quick top coat and you're good to go. Others use the blue painters/masking tape. My results have been outstanding and have only had some supports fail on me - I now use a brim when I need supports to give a better adhesion.
@@angelorusso3219 Thanks for the info! I'll deffo have to look into getting glass as my new bed, but i might just buy a replacement ender 3 sheet, since i have been rather happy with the print adhesion witouth the use of hairspray and stuff, we'll see. And i'm looking forward to seeing your make! :)
In your slicer, set your filament diameter to 1.591mm. Because math. What, you're still here? You want to know how I got to that value? Why, do you think I'm any good at math? *Sigh* Here we go then. We take our hexagon, for which we know our long diagonal: 1.75mm. We draw 3 of these diagonals to divide the hexagon in 6 triangles. Each corner of our Hexagon is 120°. A diagonal slices that in half to 60° => One corner of our triangle. In the middle we have a 360° circle sliced in 6 equal pieces, giving us also 60°. Since the total sum of all angles is 180° in a triangle, we know that the 3rd angle is also 60°. And because all angles are equal, all sides must be equal as well. Since all long diagonals meet in the middle, we know that our sides of our triangle are 1.75mm / 2 = 0.875mm To calculate the area of a triangle, we need to do (base * height) / 2. We know our base. We need to figure out our height. Which we can do using the rule of pythagoras. a² + b² = c² Make a perpendicular line in the middle of our triangle and start plugging the numbers in: (0.875/2)² + height² = 0.875² ==> sqrt(0.875² - (0.875/2)²) = height height = 0,7578mm Area of triangle = (0.7578 * 0.875) / 2 = 0,3315mm² We have six of those triangles in our hexagon, so 0.3315 * 6 = 1.989mm² surface area. Okay, we know our slicer expects a circular filament. So we tell it has a filament diameter which has the exact same surface area as our hexagonal filament. So we take pi*r² = surface area => sqrt(1.989/3.14) = 0.759mm radius. 0.759 * 2 = 1.591mm diameter. I'm sure there is a much faster way to get to this solution, but hey, I got there. :p
haha, thanks for putting in the effort! with your numbers one would need about 110% flow rate, however, i usually need to use around 150% flow rate. I'm guessing the reason for this is that the filament my printer prints isn't fully dimentionally accurate + small gaps might be present between the layer lines.
![Quando Rondo - Life Goes On [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eIf3fhMXAow/mqdefault.jpg)
Man you’re a genius for this
That "subscribe button red" gag convinced me! Great video and unique idea 👍
Haha, happy to hear that! Welcome to the channel!
same here :)
Same here... And I love your sense of humour. Liked and subscribed!
Immediately, I want to try mixing a color-changing filament with a glossy metallic.
Scaled up the 30g filament print to 110% for my Prusa Mk3S+. Completely filled the print bed. Re-printed to homogenize the colors with a 1.2 extrusion multiplier. Worked perfect! thanks so much for this video and the .stl files!
Why the heck do you only have 600 subscribers?!? YOU DESERVE MORE! YOU JUST DO!
Haha, thanks ^^ probably mostly due to my infrequent uploads
Ohhh lol hadn’t noticed that (btw i just started printing a wallet)
Genius !! "subscribe button red" made me subscribe. Keep doing the good job 👌👌
your videos look like you are on the same level as someone like CNC kitchen or 3d printing nerd. keep up the good work. hope your channel grows
Thanks! :)
A similar idea would be to use the extruder to push out thin threads and braid them together. Theoretically, it could be made practical with a mechanical weaving tool. Print out the threads one at a time and wind them under tension (as you would with a real filament extruder), then braid. Tight twists makes a mixed colour. No twist results in your bi-directional colour effect. Better yet, because it's braided, the poor tolerances of extruding the threads might average out to give you a more consistent diameter. And ofc, you could print a whole spool (... eventually).
Another idea I have from this is to print a slinky. With the right offset you can separate the layers, with the colour split concentrically. This might get you a longer length of filament. Not sure how practical that is, however, as printing a slinky is a feat of its own.
This is so cool. Never thought of the need to print out my own fillament :)
SO MANY IDEAS! I can't fit them all in my head! thank you!
Hello Sunshine,
I tested your 30 gram filament yesterday and the day before. I was always held back by the underextrusion in your tests.
After printing, I measured the diameter of the filament at the beginning, in the middle and at the end, with a caliper. I measured 4 times per measuring section. Horizontally, vertically and diagonally opposite. I added up all the results and divided them by all the measuring points to get the average value. I entered this average diameter in Prusa Slicer under Filament.
The printouts are just as good as from the standard filament. However, I printed with a prusa mk3s+. Perhaps it is also due to the direct extruder that I have no underextrusion. Even in vase mode it is very nice to look at.
I will upload some photos and possibly a video soon.
Kind regards
juck.
Great quality video, never knew one could do this. I plan on getting an ender 3 soon and will definitely try this out!
amazing idea, my head exploded...after I put it together again I will start trying this IMMEDIATELY :D
Love the video!
This hexagon idea inspired me to create my own filament, so I started to experiment with it.
Got some decent results and I was even able to create a multicolor rainbow version with gradients.
Thank you very much for this idea!
Glad to hear it worked for you! thanks for the kind words! :)
Awesome! I’m
Gonna try it first on my Prusa i3 because I don’t know how to unjam my flashforge and I don’t wanna risk it lol
Congratulations, you have such great ideas, I love them.
Mr. CAAAALIPEEEEER!
I actually have an idea with this... What if you could calculate how much filament each layer is going to take and, with this method, make sections of the 3D printed filament which are that exact color? Means if, say, an eye has to be printed in white the filament beforehand was black all the time but at the exact moment the printer prints the eyes of the model it'll have the white section of the filament there.
Almost like those "filament cutters" that are already on the market, just with a ton more math :D
haven't ehard from you in a while!
i'm gonna print an ABS outside and PLA core filmaent and anneal it :O
it's great because I can choose the color it's good XD
Hello! Came back to this video just to say that Cura 5 made slicing this spiral way more acurate. With variable layer width and new slicing engine now the spiral slices in continuous lines (no infill diagonal lines) and represents way better the shape of the hexagon.
Thanks for the idea! testing it as I write this..
When you say "variable layer width" do you mean line width? Or is this another feature I'm not aware of?
@@ithork yes! Sorry! LINE width..
Thank you very much, 3D-print-David Guetta!
*remix intensifies*
Haha, the finish to the vid 😂. But a cool concept, I will be try this soon 👌🏻
Haha, thanks! ^^
Really nice idea
Maybe trying out a silk material could help w minimizing the needed overall increased flow rate to print the bonded viscous filaments
Subscribed because of Subscribe button red. Well done Sir!
Wow man, your stuff is really interesting
ngl i actually subscribed after he said subscribe button red lmao
``subscribe button red``
this gag deserves 1million subs.
by the way,
you shoul try the ULTRABASE from anicubic as a replacement for your broken printbed.
this thing is super easy to use
Love it ! What digital micrometer is that? Do you recommend it? THankS!
This is already a cool concept... But, hear me out. What if we did the same thing, but tested out printing the core out of different materials to see if there are any mechanical advantages to this. For example, printing with a carbon fiber PLA core for stiffness, and ABS outside for heat and UV deflection...
Very interesting idea!!
Thank you!
thanks, it's Great video and unique idea
Brilliant. How did you come up with this idea?
Thanks! Was just thinking of how i could mix my own colours, and then i tried this
@@TurboSunShine It's a genius idea! I just tried a gradient color one, and it came out great. I'm now trying a 2-pass to get an even color.
@@Adnub Thanks! Hope that works too :)
@@TurboSunShine It's a great idea, one of those ones where you say "why didn't I think of that?", which I hear means you're a genius. Great work!
@@MaximilianonMars haha, thanks ^^
Subscribed !
Just subscribed for the red button color joke :))
Haha, thanks! Welcome to the channel! :)
awesome !
Thank you :)
Nice, thank you!
after first print , in the second for fusion the colors in one need up the flow? or up the flow after 2 prints from filament.stl? thanks bro ! nice work
How about this manually gcode: print inner spiral, M26 pause command, then outer spiral with different color. or a bunch of colros this way.
Nice vid ! I'm not sure if you mentioned it in the vid but what's the size of filament you're using ? And did you experience any issues with jamming ? (I'd imagine the new filament shape could cause some issues with the extrusion mechanism not getting a proper grip on the slightly odd shape)
Oh shit! you are right! I totally forgot to mention that! I'll add it right away to the Thingiverse page and description. In this case its designed to work with 1.75mm filament. The size is made a little smaller then normal 1.75mm filament, (thats why you have to give it more Flow), so jams should not be any major concern, however this is again very dependent on how well you can print the filament.
subscribed for Mr caliper AAHHAHAH
cool!
nice one
Subscribed because "subscribe button red" xD
haha, thanks! welcome to the channel! :)
could you possibly make a file for this but for belt printers? I have a cr-30
Please print a hair comb and give instructions for its use.
using this is it possible to do a filament that is multi type
Is there a reason you don't use an octagon instead of hexagon?
is there a limit to how many times you can reuse the same filiment?
Not from a material point of view
🔥💕👍
Digital alchemy!
my ender bed did the same thing, go glass with it
Thanks for the suggestion! How well do prints stick to glass?
@@TurboSunShine all depends on what you put on it, I use hair spray or blue tape depending on print surface area on the bed
@@TurboSunShine Nice video and idea to make your own custom colors. I will try this and post a make on TV when I get to it. As to prints sticking to glass... I used the stock bed (which had a low point in the middle that I used the tinfoil trick) for a week, then bought the 4 pack of 300x300mm mirrors at IKEA for $9.99 (also found at Lowe's) and cut them down the Ender 3 size. If your print has a large base, you shouldn't need anything other than a good cleaning with 91% IPA. For prints with small pieces attached to the bed, use Aqua Net hairspray - spray on the mirror like you're spray painting a quick top coat and you're good to go. Others use the blue painters/masking tape. My results have been outstanding and have only had some supports fail on me - I now use a brim when I need supports to give a better adhesion.
@@angelorusso3219 Thanks for the info! I'll deffo have to look into getting glass as my new bed, but i might just buy a replacement ender 3 sheet, since i have been rather happy with the print adhesion witouth the use of hairspray and stuff, we'll see. And i'm looking forward to seeing your make! :)
3DMN have allready the same idea😀
Haha, yes, his video is based on this project :)
no black
In your slicer, set your filament diameter to 1.591mm.
Because math.
What, you're still here? You want to know how I got to that value? Why, do you think I'm any good at math?
*Sigh*
Here we go then.
We take our hexagon, for which we know our long diagonal: 1.75mm. We draw 3 of these diagonals to divide the hexagon in 6 triangles.
Each corner of our Hexagon is 120°. A diagonal slices that in half to 60° => One corner of our triangle. In the middle we have a 360° circle sliced in 6 equal pieces, giving us also 60°.
Since the total sum of all angles is 180° in a triangle, we know that the 3rd angle is also 60°. And because all angles are equal, all sides must be equal as well.
Since all long diagonals meet in the middle, we know that our sides of our triangle are 1.75mm / 2 = 0.875mm
To calculate the area of a triangle, we need to do (base * height) / 2.
We know our base. We need to figure out our height. Which we can do using the rule of pythagoras. a² + b² = c²
Make a perpendicular line in the middle of our triangle and start plugging the numbers in:
(0.875/2)² + height² = 0.875² ==> sqrt(0.875² - (0.875/2)²) = height
height = 0,7578mm
Area of triangle = (0.7578 * 0.875) / 2 = 0,3315mm²
We have six of those triangles in our hexagon, so 0.3315 * 6 = 1.989mm² surface area.
Okay, we know our slicer expects a circular filament. So we tell it has a filament diameter which has the exact same surface area as our hexagonal filament.
So we take pi*r² = surface area => sqrt(1.989/3.14) = 0.759mm radius. 0.759 * 2 = 1.591mm diameter.
I'm sure there is a much faster way to get to this solution, but hey, I got there. :p
haha, thanks for putting in the effort! with your numbers one would need about 110% flow rate, however, i usually need to use around 150% flow rate. I'm guessing the reason for this is that the filament my printer prints isn't fully dimentionally accurate + small gaps might be present between the layer lines.
good experiment, but useless