How To Use A Motorcycle Chain Tool | MC Garage
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2024
- Has your motorcycle chain seen better days? When it’s time to replace the chain on your streetbike, special tools make the job a whole lot easier. Today on MC Garage, we’re going to show you how to use a chain tool.
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Here at the Motorcyclist office, we are blessed with a supply of perfectly prepped new motorcycles from manufacturers to review. It’s not often that we have a bike in our possession long enough to need a fresh chain. Case in point: this 2020 Husqvarna Svartpilen 701. Obviously, the chain is still in working condition but we are replacing it anyway, as an example. Ideally, we recommend replacing the sprockets at the same time as the chain, but for the sake of demonstration we will not be doing that today.
Break The Chain With A Motorcycle Chain Tool
First thing you need to do is remove the old chain. This requires “breaking” the chain. The breaking method is disconnecting the continuous loop, and I’ve seen some wild ways of doing this… I actually witnessed a friend use a pair of bolt cutters on his dirt bike chain. But to be fair, he isn’t a man of subtle and refined measures, and would probably fish with dynamite. We prefer using a chain tool.
This D.I.D KM500R chain tool will press the rivets out of the chain using a hardened steel pusher pin applying tremendous force using the mechanical advantage of a threaded plunger, and the leverage of a couple of box-end wrenches. Just open up the tool, and place the U-shaped holder around the chain. Turn the pin around in the holder so that it protrudes. Slide the body in and set it in the “A” position so the pin lines up with the hole on the U holder. This is where the old riveted pin will exit the chain.
Line up the pin with the riveted pin, and hold the tool with one wrench while turning the pin holder clockwise to tighten the pin holder assembly. Simply put, this tool is a miniature press; turn to add more force until the riveted pin is pushed through. Back the tool out, and the old chain is broken. Time for the new chain.
Install The New Chain
Here’s a tip: When cutting the chain, push the pin out of the forward pin when working on the bottom of the chain. This gives you a free link to attach the new master link and chain to, so you can just pull the new chain through the front sprocket. Also don’t clean the shipping grease off until installed on the bike, especially if it’s an X-ring chain. You need lubrication to remain in the master link pins to be held in by the X-ring.
Install The Master Link
Now it’s time to install the new master link. Make sure the pins are greased. Lubrication is important to the life of your chain, and once the link is installed, the internal lubrication is sealed by the X-ring. If you don’t have enough lube, it can lead to early wear of the master link.
Slide in the master link and make sure the X-rings are in place. Place the X-rings in the pins sticking through and mount the link plate. Then install the U holder with the riveted pinheads lined up in the depressions. Flip the pin around in the pin holder and line up the pressure plate with the link plate with the holder marks lined up in the “A” position. This gives even pressure across the entire pressure plate and thereby the link plate. Turn and tighten until it is properly seated.
Rivet The Master Link In Place
Lastly, it’s time to rivet the new master link’s pins which will hold the link plate in the proper place until it’s time for a new chain. Pull the pressure plate out, set the holder to the “B” position in the tool, and line up the small nipple inside of the hole in the master link pin. Then once again tighten. The pin will flare locking the master link plate in its place. Tighten until the flare contacts the link plate. No more, no less.
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D.I.D. 530 VX3 X-Ring Motorcycle Chain: amzn.to/2HUSpis
Learn more about the D.I.D. KM500R Chain Tool: didchain.com/d...
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Breaking your old chain (1:22)
Routing your new chain using the old chain (1:56)
Installing a new master link (2:22)
Riveting the master link's pins (3:00) 
Авто/Мото
Haven’t seen a MC garage in some time. Crazy timing.
A well made 530 chain is a beast to remove with just the press. It's much easier if you dremel the end of the rivet off first, then press it out.
Grinding off the head of the riveted pin before using the tool will keep the chain tool's press pin from breaking on most chain tools. Not sure about the DID tool, but the older C shaped Motion Pro tool design has instructions that read : When breaking #520 or larger drive chain, it is recommended to grind off the rivet heads first. This will
significantly reduce the load on the tool and help prevent premature wear or damage to the breaking tips.
The newer, more substantial Motion Pro PBR tool does not make the recommendation in the instructions,.
Point is, whichever tool you use, you can increase the life of the extractor pin by just grinding off the rivet head prior to pressing out the rivet.
Why put any wear on the tool at all if the chain is being replaced? I just use a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and cut the old chain off and throw it away. Simple. Easy. Fast.
Jay _ No problem, unless you want to link the new chain to the old and pull it around the sprockets for an easy install. Either way gets the old chain off easily. Just depends on how you want to install the new one.
I've had the DID tool for years and removed dozens of chains with the tool and no grinder. It's a very well made tool. If and when the pins do need replacing they sell them separately.
@@corcoranranch You are replacing the sprockets anyway, so you don't need the old chain at all.
@@pallecla Exactly. Just dremel through the side plates and quit wasting time.
Used the KM500R Chain Tool for the first time, though bougt it a few years ago.
After breaking the chain the Cuttingand Riveting Pin was rock solid in the tool. took me a lot of trouble to get the pin out of the tool. It was too tight and had to sand of a bit so it would come out of the tool. Beside that tool works fine.
I've tried many many chain tools. The new motion pro PBR tool is by far the best. I was convinced the DID was for a long time until I got to use the PBR and now I sold the DID tool to a friend.
mm . . .that's why I'm here looking at this video. I just bought the PBR and installed a DID chain with it, or at least, I attempted to. It's a well-designed tool with one major and important failing. The riveting head is spherical and completely the wrong shape for peening over the soft rivet. The DID tool appears to have a fixed angle on the tool and also, it will only allow you to tighten so far, until the rivet head reaches the base of the tool. The PBR uses a hemi-spherical dome when when applied to the rivet head, applies more of a downward pressure to the rivet than a splaying force. Thus by the time the thing starts to splay outwards, the tool is exerting a massive force on the rivet head and in my case, despite going gently, it split the rivet head before I achieved the desired amount of peening. The tool is otherwise good but this is a major failing in the design. I am going to ditch my PBR and buy the DID tool . . . a shame but hey ho
@@ybliga that's all user error seriously.
@@blue03r6 I wish it was. I've decided to keep the PBR because I like the overall design and the quad stake tool is a useful addition. I've now got hold of a KM500R rivet head and I'm in the process of turning it down so it will fit the PBR - It's a conical shape and designed to apply more of a progressive sidways pressure to the hollow rivet but also, the depth of the tool is calibrated so that it's not possible to flatten the rivet head too much. Rather than simply dissing what I'm saying . . take time to look at the shape of the flare tool on the PBR. It is poorly designed and requires a huge amount of extra force to flare the head because the angle created by the tangent of the spherical tool is wrong. I managed one and achieved a fairly decent result but the second pin split pretty quickly before the flare got much beyond 5.6mm. I'm glad you're pleased with your PBR but remember your advice when you next split rivet pin with it :-)
@@ybliga not to be a dick but I'm a Yamaha certified technician. Had quit the job before I finished the Kawasaki Suzuki and Polaris certifications completely. So, trust me, the pbr tool isn't the problem. It totally possible they sent you one with a incorrect part. So maybe contact motion pro about your issue. But the tool used correctly cannot over do the pins. What size chain are you using it on? It doesn't work for chains over 530. Try watching the video sport bike track gear made. Brian van is a certified Cadillac technician and did a great video how to use the pbr tool
@@blue03r6 It was supplied with the correct parts - it is as I said. You'll just have to agree to disagree with me but . . . I'm right!! :-) You could be an ex-Yamaha tech or you could be someone from Motion Pro promoting your tool over the KM500R, the latter is the better tool for DID chains by a country mile and anyone who buys one will find out.
I'm more OCD and will use a micrometer to measure the the pressed plate & flares on the rivets so they match the other links
Like everyone is saying, grind off the old master link pin, no need to wear out the tool's pin 5x as much. Also woulda been a good idea to show the "proper" amount to press on the new master link plate which means to look at the gap between the plate and the roller on the next link. my biggest piece of advice, get the damn D.I.D chain, its worth it, piece of mind and they really do last twice as long as the second best RK I believe.
Brilliant. Short and to the point
Nice! Plz, do more MC Garage videos.
I have exact tool and gotta admit it just makes chain change easy
I used this exact tool and chain but managed to press the plate on too tightly. Be gentle and ~double~ no _triple_ check all tolerances!
I pressed my plate on too tight many times but I was using a diff tool such hard task lol
Nice production guys. Simple and to the point.
Thanks!Subscribed! Love motorbikes!😀
As an option consider using factory made endless chains. No chain tools, no master links. Just pure reliable chain. All You have to do, is check if it fits yourbike as an option and remove the tail to install it. Definitely worth it.
But, isn't it a bit of a hassle having to slide the axle it of the way to get the chain in?
@@SmallSpoonBrigade You would need to remove the swingarm
Used an angle grinder for removal of the chain, it's worn anyway so why take the extra time to prepare the tool when te grinder is just in reach? 😁
When I couldn't get the chain tool to pop the rivet on my old K3 600, this was my neighbor's suggestion. Worked like a charm in less than a minute.
The chain looks so damn new and clean 🤙😂
We used to call the Tool a Chain Breaker
What would be the problem with leaving the factory grease on the chain? Would it not be good to just wipe off the excess and leave the rest? I feel like it would offer great protection and lubrication
It is good lubrication. This guy in the video is full of shit. About alot things
I left it on my last chain I installed and just wiped off the extra that was gooped all over it. It’s still nice and quiet after about 1k miles
@@RapidRedRider Guarantee you the chain manufacturers expect that chain to sit in that packaging for a long time. They wouldn't coat it with garbage
@@jimmyswollnuts7662 agreed. The grease they coat the chain in feels, looks and smells like the grease in the package for the master link. I wipe the excess off so it looks nice and doesn’t catch as much dirt and debris
thanks, JD.
Q1: The pins on your master link appear to have a uniform diameter over their full length. How do you know when the link plate is fully seated? Does the press tool bottom out on the adjacent links so they're all the same width?
Q2: If I'm replacing both sprockets, it seems that an OEM "linkless" chain might be pretty easy to install since the rear wheel will be off, especially on monoshock bikes. Is this commonly done? If not, why?
Can only fit a linkless chain with the swingarm out.
The tool only allows the plates to be pressed together the correct amount, same with the rivet head. You can't over tighten it with the DID tool
Yes! Finally a good video on this tool!
This video is much better
I wish Snapon, cornwell, Matco or any of the other major tool companies carry motorcycle specific tools
Very nice trick very good.
Might look at belts too.....if yer looking for an idea....
i just watched this 10 mins after i replaced my old chain, damn it too late
Why is it called X-ring when its shape is round?Also what's the difference between O-ring and X-ring?Which is better?
Cheers
Laz1Go The difference is the shape of the rubber ring cross section.
@Justin Dawes thanks man!
Fort Nine has a really good video about different chains and the best chain lubes.
What if motorcycle have link less chain?
Well done!
But.. say I did use bolt cutters on my old chain, anything wrong with that? I mean the goal is to get the old chain off right?
assuming you didn't nick a brake line or anything else, you're all good. We've seen people use angle grinders too.
The hardened steel on the nicer chains is not easy cut with a bolt cutter, so if you do, use one with long handles for leverag lest you tear a pectoral muscle in the attempt. And wear safety goggles in case a piece of bolt cutter jaw come sailing off under pressure.
Or, "Shake hands with danger!" (ruclips.net/video/1BxD66YRpVw/видео.html)
Personally, I like to grind the pin end down smooth (no longer staked) first, THEN use the pin driver. It's possible to damage the pin driver otherwise.
In all honesty, I just use a clip type master link on anything less than 80hp and 50 ft-lbs of torque. Not super recommend, but also well within the a 520 chain's specs.
Sir, my chain is very tight on half rear wheel spin, and very loose on the other half. Uneven chain slack.
Please help
Uneven wear is a typical sign of a dead chain, just replace it. If sprockets seem to be in very good condition, you can keep them to save a buck, if they show wear, swap them as well.
Great video
Would you mind tell me
Motorcycle Chain need how many Kilometers for changer new ???
It should say in your bikes User manual, I would assume
@@roberta7734 I' have not User manual
ruclips.net/video/xQz2kIiJZ6k/видео.html
Thx
Psh please. My Chinese 250 uses something along the line of a bicycle chain. Just snap that old master link off and there ya go.
פלייזזז חייב תרגום לעיברית יש המון ישראלים שרוצים תרגום מאנגלית אם אפשר לעשות בסירטונים הבאים אני ישמח🙏🤗
דרך אגב סירטונים קטלניים🔥
Hi
No! Are you?
why you shittin on bolt cutters? You can rent them for free from a hardware store, and they cu t the chain in less time than it took me to write this, much less the several minutes you spent futzing about with a chain tool