I thought I'd mention that the design for this part was done on Autodesk Fusion. There is now an addon for this video showing overhangs and tunnels. You can find it at: ruclips.net/video/LIOB1BUnFmA/видео.html If you would like to learn more about The MakerBarn, go to www.themakerbarn.org/
I've seen people use PETG as support material for PLA but never as a reusable core. That's really clever! Thanks for showing this off. I'll definitely remember it next time I'm in a similar situation since I hate cleaning supports.
Thanks! Great tip. I have used PETG as a support filament on relatively simple models, and it separates from PLA cleanly. However, it is a pain with a single nozzle system. Your method has helped me see the models a little differently, so now I design support blocks where I can, print with PETG, then print the model, pause the print, slide in the PETG support. It works really well.
I do this using ABS. I also usually stick a magnet on the core to keep it in place. But I only do this as a last resort. I would probably just split that in half and extend the screws you’re using to the back. But you’re right. I haven’t really seen this on RUclips. This a handy trick. It also leaves a perfect surface finish. Even on the top side of that bridge.
9:52 If your finished part can afford it , you could add a small locator tab / indentation in one side of the actual part (Y direction) & a mating feature in the core (maybe a semi circle or triangle) , it would make the core self locating (no tape needed) and foolproof on which surface is up. Love the concept very much though, I'm going to have to try it !!
What a simple but great idea! Definitely have to try this method out. I guess you can call this reusable supports? Saves a ton of material if you plan to print multiples of a part!
An excellent idea, one I'm sure I'll try at some point. Thanks for sharing. If I can add two suggestions for something you are going to use regularly. 1: Embed one or two thin magnetics in the core so it holds it's self down and 2: Add a couple of 'T' extensions at the narrow end that extend beyond the end of the main body, then it can't slide back and forth. But Hey it works great as it is!
I would think, just put to minor block stops in the 1st layer. at the top of your buck to stop it from sliding around. I think that might be a better option, or go with some sort of key slot on the lower tang of the buck to lock the buck into place.
Great video, thanks for sharing (you have earned a ' creative award '. I have a need for this with a cubed block that can be taped in place and eliminate supports.
Thanks for sharing, looks like a great method. I've tried printing PLA over PETG using a dual extruder and zero gap, but it sticks like hell and is difficult to separate (despite what others say). I guess the fact that your core is cold (or relatively so) makes all the difference. Also, you have the benefit of a reusable core, which saves printing time and material. I'm going to give it a try.
I've already heard of using PETG supports for PLA or vice-versa, printing them with the AMS, but this is an interesting spin. The advantages are that it can copy the bed texture and the core is re-usable. I'd like to share my own idea (though, as you said, someone else might have already invented it). We could print supports of the same material, leaving a .2mm gap. Pause the print at the last layer before the gap, lay down painters tape on the gap, then resume the print. It's not practical for this shape, as you'd have to crop it and align it precisely, but perhaps there are other situations where it could be handy. I wanted to do this with a filament that was very sticky (PETG?) and couldn't make break-away supports work. They would either not come apart with a small gap or leave a terrible surface with a large one, as it was effectively printing in air. I cancelled the project, so I didn't get to try it.
Great idea! But I have had great luck using PETG as support material for PLA (or vice-a-versa) as you mentioned they don't stick together when printing and they just pull apart after printing. Easy to do with a multi-material AMS system.
Have you considered using embedded magnets to hold the core to the build plate? If you're making many parts that would speed the process up, and make it less fiddly. Using sets of magnets might also let you build up stacked cores at different levels to make complex cavities.
Pretty cool technique, not sure I have seen a reusable core done on 3d printer before but I have seen nuts and magnets inserted mid print so they get encased in the print. I have an DD IDEX printer I built so I usually just use a different material as the support or PVA if it's a complex PLA print. Depends on how many copies you're making I guess. If i't just a few your way is great but if I had to do a lot I'd probably split just the model in half to avoid supports and screw or solvent weld the two halfs together when done. Sadly no maker spaces near me to join, yours looks really nice, quite the setup you have.
Awesome tip, i saw the video about 2 weeks ago, and what do you know, i get comissioned to make a propeller part that could only be done otherwise with a multimaterial setup. It took a few tries to get it right, but i made a beautiful part using an ender 3 thanks to you!
That's cool! I wish there was a way to do this with ABS/ASA, if I made this with those materials and HIPS for the sacrificial core, I think they would fuse together.
PLA and PETG don't stick, but not because of temperature, rather because they are chemically incompatible. PETG sticks to PP despite much lower melting point, for example, and you can blend them together to get a plastic with different properties. If you blend PLA and PETG the resulting plastic will be extremely crumbly.
I was thinking if a multihead printer like the prusaXL could be a good move to use here. But the bed temps for PETG and PLA are diferent, and on a textured plate the PETG can slip out of it's place if the bed is not 80°C
i sometimes make 1 layer thick parts before printing main part, pause the print before overhangs and insert it like a roof for the overhangs. But i like your solution as well.
I will try to find a problem for this solution. Thanks! Imagine the amount of MMU-poop this could save for solvable supports too. Even if your supports are internal you can print them separately first.
Brilliant idea, thanks for sharing! Did you try extending the tabs on the form widthways so that it locks itself in the X and Y directions? I wonder whether that would negate the need for tape or whether you need something holding it down in Z too.
The petg part is a manually created support. So you did actually use supports. We don't see this often on RUclips, but it is fairly standard practice, called sacrificial support structures.
It's a bit different than sacrificial support which is usually done using soluble support material. This support structure can be used over and over making secondary structure removal unnecessary.
This is Great, I thought I could make a block set that I could use for 90 degree prints instead of supports. This opened my eyes on how to do it....thanks so much. I do believe the next revolution in 3d prints is in supports or lack of them either by Design or machine capabilities. I have one for you for helping me out. Use Magnets on that red piece. and I too use the Bambu glue..... thanks again, great stuff.
Rather than magnets in the red PETG piece, a small stop of ferrous material embedded into it would do the same thing and not be sticking to other things with just ferrous material. The embedded ferrous would easily stick to the magnetic bed of the printer but not too strongly, and you would not have to use tape. Actually, putting tabs on each end of the PETG which would "T" on each end would prevent the verticle movement. And printing 3 at a time (maybe 4) might work out as well. Great explanation and I can already see a lot of use for this in some of my prints. Thanks!
Brilliant. I think I saw a promo video from prusa where they did something similar with an external overhang. But I never saw it again, nor have I ever seen anyone recommend it. This is particularly good when you have repeats to make. As you essentially have a reusable support. But given the surface quality is probably worth it for just a 1 of Very nice. Side point. Have seen a similarly rare video recommending a pause and dropping inserts in that are other PLA parts to solve overhangs. Same way you'd drop in magnets etc. But that wouldn't help you here.
I’ve been doing this for years with tpu gaskets and seals that have 90degree or greater overhangs, recesses and complex shapes. I use petg cores with magnets in for tpu, tpu cores for pla. To add the cores just set a layer colour change in your slicer. TPU takes a bit of tweaking to get the core first layer to go down correctly.
I can’t give enough thumbs up 👍 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 What great idea I’ve never seen before. I’m definitely adding that to my arsenal of tricks. I’ve subscribed and looking forward to devouring your content. Thank you 🙏
Very creative solution! Since you are using the gluestick on the PETG insert to make the separation easy, wouldn’t the same technique work with a PLA insert?
PETG has a higher melting temperature. PLA would have a tendency to melt and fuse to the part being printed over it because of having the same melting temperature.
Thanks! Should definitely try this! 👍😎 In case with this particular model you can slice it into 2 halves, each one will have a completely flat surface you can print on, and then you don't even have to glue those halves together, they will align with the screws through. But! In many cases it will not be possible, so your method would be the best!
Subscribed! 🙂 I am more interested in the access control system :-) I sit on the board of directors at SnoCo Maker Space in Everett, WA (Boeing's home) and we are in the midst of building out our access control systems for our tools. What are you using? I have been running Home Assistant in our space, just upgraded to a Home Assistant Yellow, and we've been logging 3D printer use through power meter monitoring on a TPLink 6 port smart plug. I now have hardware that can talk to HA by reading our 125khz key card badges, but still need to polish up the interface for the HMI.
This unit uses a Particle Photon as the processor. It also uses a small RFID reader module we were able to purchase through eBay. Unfortunately, the Photon and the RFID module are no longer available. I was building enough units to use up our back stock. I am in the process of redesigning the system using an ESP32. I designed the reader hardware, the actual decode of the RFID data will be done within the ESP32. Hopefully the ESP32 will be around for the long haul, but you never know. The MACS reader unit communicates with a server. We started out using a Pi, but we found it was too slow when we started getting more members. The current server is a NUC running windows. If you check my early videos, there are two videos demonstrating the MACS hardware and software. Currently we are using 30 MACS units in our makerspace to serve about 340 members.
Pla breakout support and or PVA support interface would be cheaper (compare to the manual labor cost, and accuracy required), and you can easily do 2-3 per plate (not sure you have space for horizontal line).
My system has 2 AMS units, so I could do that. But it would have to switch between material every time for 16 layers, that would be 32 filament changes which would take a lot of time. And that extra time would be multiplied by the number of units I would have to make. In this case I needed 10 units.
@@makerspace533 if you printed multiple units per plate then your filament changes would be only for the interface layers which if you wanted a nice smooth finish you would have 3 or 4 with zero gap. all other support material would be the PLA up to the interface layers. You should try it out it works very well! The PLA Support material from Bambu works even better than PETG...Ive done it both ways!
Pause is added at the beginning of the layer you are viewing's gcode. So you would look at the first layer that bridges and then add the pause. You can see when you resume it does one more layer of the sides, then moves up a layer and starts the layer with the bridge. None the less, I love the idea. It's in my back pocket. Thank you for sharing!
If you don't mind having chamfers and the bottom corners of your piece you could tilt the whole piece at a 45 degree angle and print it up. If your not using a bed slinger you can get away with that pretty easily. It may need a little support that you can build into the design but would be a fairly simple process. Look up "Slant3d" box printing. They have a pretty interesting video on it. I know you are not printing a box but all the same rules would apply.
I think what he means is if the sliced file doesnt indicate the first layer on top of the core as "bridges". Looking at the speed difference visible in the video I guess the slicer still applies the "bridging" profile, even though there should be no need for it due to the core beeing there and supporting it. Might be another thing to optimize printing speed in that area.
If you are using screws already for attaching the front plate, just split the part in half and screw all three together. Edit: I didn't want this to seem like criticism. It's a great technique if you can't or won't use screws, and I think the original design could be made without the front panel and a single piece would be handy to have instead of needing screws or glue, and the technique is useful in general to learn about.
Right? I was wondering if there was any particular reason the face plate needed to be translucent acrylic, as well, seems like one could just do a minor rework, then print the assembly in two parts and not have to cut the face, too. I guess labeling might be an issue then, tho.
I like his solution as well. no need to mess with glue and make sure the halves align, but if it works for you, cool. I am guessing they don't have the AMS because I would have just printed this with PETG as the infill and PLA as the main body. But either way, his is nice idea
@@JohnScherer That would have taken forever to make the print. It would have to adjust the nozzle temperature 2 times for each layer. Also you would be printing the core over and over again.
That's a pretty neat technique to know! Wonder if that technique can be used to add patterns to the supported surfaces? Like how some pattern beds can.
I'm with Voidy on this one. I would add a 45 degree chamfer where needed to fix the overhang issue, and add a tiny triangle point at the top of all the holes to prevent circle sag. Still, it's a very cool idea for printing multiple tricky parts where that isn't possible, and you don't want to keep having to throw away support material.
Man, if you have already started the printing process at least twice - you had to do everything right initially, namely cut the model in half and glue the two halves later. It will work out faster and better. Greetings from Ukraine.
...but then you print a PETG support for every PLA part. The method suggested in this video uses a single pre-printed PETG part, so saves a lot of material and printing time. Very smart idea that I shall be trying.
@@MickHealey PLA part, PLA support structure, PETG interface layer. 1 toolchange to petg, 1 toolchange back to PLA per flat support surface. This works great if you're at your machine for a few prints and the part has one flat surface facing the bed, but that's not always possible. Try the above one day if you do have MMU abilities!
When bridging across the 2.25" wide area the PLA must be able to stick down at least a little. Otherwise it would peal up and make a mess out of the second layer.
Hi George, great idea, especially for Makers that don‘t own a Bambulab printer. One other question. Would it be possible to get more information about the Access Control System? I would like to control the access of our Makerspace at school for K12-students. Regards
Sounds like alot of "babysitting"!!! 😬 Why not instead us a UV Resin printer and print multiples with the base of the plate on edge attached to the print plate? 🤔 Heck! You could even use a translucent resin an backlight it with a Bi-Color Green/Red to indicate the enabled/disabled status of the machine circuitry?!
I am sorry, the poster takes too long to introduce the topic. Description only needs a minute or so. This method is fine for old printers, most modern printers can place a layer of dissimilar material that will not stick to the supported layer, thus it doesn’t require any separate parts. For example, when printing with PLA, print the support top layer with PETG. There are plenty of videos describing this method.
The core is reusable, less time per print, and less wasted material. It has a lot to recommend it over printing new supports for every instance of a model.
On my ENDER 3 printer where no supports are required either. I have no means of making a "puck". CREATED in WINDOWS - 3D BUILDER. 🙂 ruclips.net/video/WTF3RpKDgD4/видео.html
the title of the video is misleading. Technically speaking, the red piece is still support. Even if it is a pre-printed part from a different material. ...btw. The red part could have a shaped fitting at the end so that there is no need to use tape.
I thought I'd mention that the design for this part was done on Autodesk Fusion. There is now an addon for this video showing overhangs and tunnels. You can find it at: ruclips.net/video/LIOB1BUnFmA/видео.html If you would like to learn more about The MakerBarn, go to www.themakerbarn.org/
I've seen people use PETG as support material for PLA but never as a reusable core. That's really clever! Thanks for showing this off. I'll definitely remember it next time I'm in a similar situation since I hate cleaning supports.
Thanks! Great tip.
I have used PETG as a support filament on relatively simple models, and it separates from PLA cleanly. However, it is a pain with a single nozzle system. Your method has helped me see the models a little differently, so now I design support blocks where I can, print with PETG, then print the model, pause the print, slide in the PETG support. It works really well.
I do this using ABS. I also usually stick a magnet on the core to keep it in place. But I only do this as a last resort.
I would probably just split that in half and extend the screws you’re using to the back.
But you’re right. I haven’t really seen this on RUclips. This a handy trick. It also leaves a perfect surface finish. Even on the top side of that bridge.
9:52 If your finished part can afford it , you could add a small locator tab / indentation in one side of the actual part (Y direction) & a mating feature in the core (maybe a semi circle or triangle) , it would make the core self locating (no tape needed) and foolproof on which surface is up. Love the concept very much though, I'm going to have to try it !!
Great idea to reliably lock it in place!
@@utahwaxwing - as an old retired guy (8 yrs +) with over 35 years as a product designer, I'm glad to still be able to contribute to the cause !!
What a simple but great idea! Definitely have to try this method out. I guess you can call this reusable supports? Saves a ton of material if you plan to print multiples of a part!
This is an outstanding idea, very clever. Thank you!
Headline: "3D Printing without using supports!" Actual: I use petg for support material
wow, been 3d printing for over 5 years and never thought about this way, thanks for sharing a great video
An excellent idea, one I'm sure I'll try at some point. Thanks for sharing. If I can add two suggestions for something you are going to use regularly. 1: Embed one or two thin magnetics in the core so it holds it's self down and 2: Add a couple of 'T' extensions at the narrow end that extend beyond the end of the main body, then it can't slide back and forth. But Hey it works great as it is!
I would think, just put to minor block stops in the 1st layer. at the top of your buck to stop it from sliding around. I think that might be a better option, or go with some sort of key slot on the lower tang of the buck to lock the buck into place.
Great video, thanks for sharing (you have earned a ' creative award '. I have a need for this with a cubed block that can be taped in place and eliminate supports.
Thanks for sharing, looks like a great method. I've tried printing PLA over PETG using a dual extruder and zero gap, but it sticks like hell and is difficult to separate (despite what others say). I guess the fact that your core is cold (or relatively so) makes all the difference. Also, you have the benefit of a reusable core, which saves printing time and material. I'm going to give it a try.
Brilliant.. I was thinking to print in two halves and gluing it together but I like your idea better
I've already heard of using PETG supports for PLA or vice-versa, printing them with the AMS, but this is an interesting spin. The advantages are that it can copy the bed texture and the core is re-usable.
I'd like to share my own idea (though, as you said, someone else might have already invented it).
We could print supports of the same material, leaving a .2mm gap. Pause the print at the last layer before the gap, lay down painters tape on the gap, then resume the print.
It's not practical for this shape, as you'd have to crop it and align it precisely, but perhaps there are other situations where it could be handy.
I wanted to do this with a filament that was very sticky (PETG?) and couldn't make break-away supports work. They would either not come apart with a small gap or leave a terrible surface with a large one, as it was effectively printing in air. I cancelled the project, so I didn't get to try it.
Great idea! But I have had great luck using PETG as support material for PLA (or vice-a-versa) as you mentioned they don't stick together when printing and they just pull apart after printing. Easy to do with a multi-material AMS system.
Great video and tip for saving support material when possible.
Have you considered using embedded magnets to hold the core to the build plate? If you're making many parts that would speed the process up, and make it less fiddly. Using sets of magnets might also let you build up stacked cores at different levels to make complex cavities.
Pretty cool technique, not sure I have seen a reusable core done on 3d printer before but I have seen nuts and magnets inserted mid print so they get encased in the print.
I have an DD IDEX printer I built so I usually just use a different material as the support or PVA if it's a complex PLA print. Depends on how many copies you're making I guess. If i't just a few your way is great but if I had to do a lot I'd probably split just the model in half to avoid supports and screw or solvent weld the two halfs together when done.
Sadly no maker spaces near me to join, yours looks really nice, quite the setup you have.
Corian makes awesome knife handles.
Awesome tip, i saw the video about 2 weeks ago, and what do you know, i get comissioned to make a propeller part that could only be done otherwise with a multimaterial setup. It took a few tries to get it right, but i made a beautiful part using an ender 3 thanks to you!
That... is brilliant! I hope I can do it successfully.
Great idea. Gonna use it. Thanks. / Greetings from Sweden
That's cool! I wish there was a way to do this with ABS/ASA, if I made this with those materials and HIPS for the sacrificial core, I think they would fuse together.
Great idea! Thank you! There are recent cases where I could've used this, and I'll certainly be using it in the future!
This it’s simply brilliant ❤
PLA and PETG don't stick, but not because of temperature, rather because they are chemically incompatible. PETG sticks to PP despite much lower melting point, for example, and you can blend them together to get a plastic with different properties. If you blend PLA and PETG the resulting plastic will be extremely crumbly.
I was thinking if a multihead printer like the prusaXL could be a good move to use here. But the bed temps for PETG and PLA are diferent, and on a textured plate the PETG can slip out of it's place if the bed is not 80°C
Wooow!👏👏👏
So clever!!
this would print clean on a SLA type printer. and you could fill the entire build volume.
Hervorragend 😀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great idea. I've never seen anyone do that before.
i sometimes make 1 layer thick parts before printing main part, pause the print before overhangs and insert it like a roof for the overhangs. But i like your solution as well.
Or you use petg as support material... Guess its good for a production run though
I will try to find a problem for this solution. Thanks!
Imagine the amount of MMU-poop this could save for solvable supports too. Even if your supports are internal you can print them separately first.
then u have to baby everytime u print this?
Brilliant idea, thanks for sharing!
Did you try extending the tabs on the form widthways so that it locks itself in the X and Y directions? I wonder whether that would negate the need for tape or whether you need something holding it down in Z too.
The petg part is a manually created support. So you did actually use supports. We don't see this often on RUclips, but it is fairly standard practice, called sacrificial support structures.
It's a bit different than sacrificial support which is usually done using soluble support material. This support structure can be used over and over making secondary structure removal unnecessary.
Very clever. Thx for sharing.
Try printing on a 45 degree
This is Great, I thought I could make a block set that I could use for 90 degree prints instead of supports. This opened my eyes on how to do it....thanks so much. I do believe the next revolution in 3d prints is in supports or lack of them either by Design or machine capabilities. I have one for you for helping me out. Use Magnets on that red piece. and I too use the Bambu glue..... thanks again, great stuff.
Rather than magnets in the red PETG piece, a small stop of ferrous material embedded into it would do the same thing and not be sticking to other things with just ferrous material. The embedded ferrous would easily stick to the magnetic bed of the printer but not too strongly, and you would not have to use tape. Actually, putting tabs on each end of the PETG which would "T" on each end would prevent the verticle movement. And printing 3 at a time (maybe 4) might work out as well.
Great explanation and I can already see a lot of use for this in some of my prints. Thanks!
This would have saved me so much material. Some parts can't be split in half because the seam would be unsightly. This is a great solution.
thank u for sharing😀
Brilliant. I think I saw a promo video from prusa where they did something similar with an external overhang. But I never saw it again, nor have I ever seen anyone recommend it.
This is particularly good when you have repeats to make. As you essentially have a reusable support. But given the surface quality is probably worth it for just a 1 of
Very nice.
Side point. Have seen a similarly rare video recommending a pause and dropping inserts in that are other PLA parts to solve overhangs. Same way you'd drop in magnets etc. But that wouldn't help you here.
intro is too long, but I do like this hack
I'll definitely use this technique for parts that need that better surface finish on an underside. Thanks for the video!
That’s a pretty neat trick, thanks for sharing
What model of 3D printer You are using in this video?
This is a Bambu Labs P1S.
what about adding two small structures on the bed (in your main part but separated) to hold the red insert, instead of tape ?
I like the idea of embedding magnets in the core.
I’ve been doing this for years with tpu gaskets and seals that have 90degree or greater overhangs, recesses and complex shapes. I use petg cores with magnets in for tpu, tpu cores for pla.
To add the cores just set a layer colour change in your slicer.
TPU takes a bit of tweaking to get the core first layer to go down correctly.
TPU would make a great core, I'll have to try that.
@@makerspace533 dont forget to embed magnets in the core print
@@makerspace533 me too.
I can’t give enough thumbs up 👍 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
What great idea I’ve never seen before. I’m definitely adding that to my arsenal of tricks.
I’ve subscribed and looking forward to devouring your content. Thank you 🙏
You've taped two ends of the core. How does it not bow in the middle?
The core is quite flat and the tape is not tight enough to warp it.
@@makerspace533 Flat, yes, but PETG is not known for its rigidity.
Very creative solution! Since you are using the gluestick on the PETG insert to make the separation easy, wouldn’t the same technique work with a PLA insert?
I was having the same thought. Seems worth trying.
PETG has a higher melting temperature. PLA would have a tendency to melt and fuse to the part being printed over it because of having the same melting temperature.
A good trix well done😊👌
Thanks! Should definitely try this! 👍😎
In case with this particular model you can slice it into 2 halves, each one will have a completely flat surface you can print on, and then you don't even have to glue those halves together, they will align with the screws through.
But! In many cases it will not be possible, so your method would be the best!
Subscribed! 🙂
I am more interested in the access control system :-) I sit on the board of directors at SnoCo Maker Space in Everett, WA (Boeing's home) and we are in the midst of building out our access control systems for our tools. What are you using? I have been running Home Assistant in our space, just upgraded to a Home Assistant Yellow, and we've been logging 3D printer use through power meter monitoring on a TPLink 6 port smart plug. I now have hardware that can talk to HA by reading our 125khz key card badges, but still need to polish up the interface for the HMI.
This unit uses a Particle Photon as the processor. It also uses a small RFID reader module we were able to purchase through eBay. Unfortunately, the Photon and the RFID module are no longer available. I was building enough units to use up our back stock. I am in the process of redesigning the system using an ESP32. I designed the reader hardware, the actual decode of the RFID data will be done within the ESP32. Hopefully the ESP32 will be around for the long haul, but you never know. The MACS reader unit communicates with a server. We started out using a Pi, but we found it was too slow when we started getting more members. The current server is a NUC running windows. If you check my early videos, there are two videos demonstrating the MACS hardware and software. Currently we are using 30 MACS units in our makerspace to serve about 340 members.
Put a magnet into the petg item
That's a good idea. The core is only 1/8" thick, the same thickness as my thinnest magnet. I'll have to get some thinner magnets and give it a try.
Thanks for such a clear explanation - and a neat solution which saves filament for the puck in the longrun!
Pla breakout support and or PVA support interface would be cheaper (compare to the manual labor cost, and accuracy required), and you can easily do 2-3 per plate (not sure you have space for horizontal line).
My system has 2 AMS units, so I could do that. But it would have to switch between material every time for 16 layers, that would be 32 filament changes which would take a lot of time. And that extra time would be multiplied by the number of units I would have to make. In this case I needed 10 units.
@@makerspace533 if you printed multiple units per plate then your filament changes would be only for the interface layers which if you wanted a nice smooth finish you would have 3 or 4 with zero gap. all other support material would be the PLA up to the interface layers. You should try it out it works very well! The PLA Support material from Bambu works even better than PETG...Ive done it both ways!
@@makerspace533 No, you set support interface material different from anything else, and have only two material changes
@@AngelDLM08 2 per layer, 16 layers
@@makerspace533 interface its ony 1-3 layers, so added time would be minutes of Printer time vs minutes of Human time
That's such a clever idea, obvious now I've seen it but great thinking.
Pause is added at the beginning of the layer you are viewing's gcode.
So you would look at the first layer that bridges and then add the pause.
You can see when you resume it does one more layer of the sides, then moves up a layer and starts the layer with the bridge.
None the less, I love the idea. It's in my back pocket. Thank you for sharing!
You're right. I tried it and the pause does occur before the selected layer. Good to know!
If you don't mind having chamfers and the bottom corners of your piece you could tilt the whole piece at a 45 degree angle and print it up. If your not using a bed slinger you can get away with that pretty easily. It may need a little support that you can build into the design but would be a fairly simple process. Look up "Slant3d" box printing. They have a pretty interesting video on it. I know you are not printing a box but all the same rules would apply.
Did you turn bridging off?
Supports were not enabled, so it was not necessary to turn off support for bridging, if that's what you mean.
I think what he means is if the sliced file doesnt indicate the first layer on top of the core as "bridges". Looking at the speed difference visible in the video I guess the slicer still applies the "bridging" profile, even though there should be no need for it due to the core beeing there and supporting it. Might be another thing to optimize printing speed in that area.
@@MarkusRessel Right. Yes, I left it so the first layer over a bridge would be done at reduced speed.
If you are using screws already for attaching the front plate, just split the part in half and screw all three together.
Edit: I didn't want this to seem like criticism. It's a great technique if you can't or won't use screws, and I think the original design could be made without the front panel and a single piece would be handy to have instead of needing screws or glue, and the technique is useful in general to learn about.
That's what I was thinking. 👍
Right? I was wondering if there was any particular reason the face plate needed to be translucent acrylic, as well, seems like one could just do a minor rework, then print the assembly in two parts and not have to cut the face, too. I guess labeling might be an issue then, tho.
The seam will be visible due to tiny skew. I guess you can just bevel it to make it look intentional.
For this use case it's possible, for for others it might not be.
Thought the same but I just view it for the general approach. Same with many Slant3D vids. It’s only to show the concept.
You should split the stl file in half (horizontal) = top + bottom... print both and glue them.
i like his solution a lot more
@@Person1873 when you run a printFarm you´ll undestand
I like his solution as well. no need to mess with glue and make sure the halves align, but if it works for you, cool. I am guessing they don't have the AMS because I would have just printed this with PETG as the infill and PLA as the main body. But either way, his is nice idea
@@JohnScherer That would have taken forever to make the print. It would have to adjust the nozzle temperature 2 times for each layer. Also you would be printing the core over and over again.
@@hmarloestudio Theres a better way. and the if you run a print farm you should know it.
That's a pretty neat technique to know! Wonder if that technique can be used to add patterns to the supported surfaces? Like how some pattern beds can.
If it works it works, I personally would've printed it upright, no support needed...
There would be some overhangs, like the recess for the gasket, that would fail.
Much stronger part printing it laying down
I'm with Voidy on this one. I would add a 45 degree chamfer where needed to fix the overhang issue, and add a tiny triangle point at the top of all the holes to prevent circle sag. Still, it's a very cool idea for printing multiple tricky parts where that isn't possible, and you don't want to keep having to throw away support material.
Man, if you have already started the printing process at least twice - you had to do everything right initially, namely cut the model in half and glue the two halves later. It will work out faster and better. Greetings from Ukraine.
This is a great idea.
Thanks!
Very clever idea ✌️
Interesting idea!
If you have the AMS just use PETG as the support material. Works great.
...but then you print a PETG support for every PLA part. The method suggested in this video uses a single pre-printed PETG part, so saves a lot of material and printing time. Very smart idea that I shall be trying.
@@MickHealey PLA part, PLA support structure, PETG interface layer. 1 toolchange to petg, 1 toolchange back to PLA per flat support surface. This works great if you're at your machine for a few prints and the part has one flat surface facing the bed, but that's not always possible. Try the above one day if you do have MMU abilities!
Great idea, thanks!
I have a question though: shouldn't the pause be placed at the beginning of layer 17, not 16 ?
You are correct.
great idea! thank for sharing!
This is awesome
If the core is thick enough, you could embed magnets in it, and that would stick it down to the plate.
Brilliant!
Very cleaver!
Why can't you print it on it's side? I print thing on it's side all the time with no issues
What about gluing a layer of silpat to the core. You know, that stuff you use to line a cookie sheet so the cookies won't stick.
When bridging across the 2.25" wide area the PLA must be able to stick down at least a little. Otherwise it would peal up and make a mess out of the second layer.
@@makerspace533 you are correct, sir, good point.
Hi George, great idea, especially for Makers that don‘t own a Bambulab printer.
One other question. Would it be possible to get more information about the Access Control System? I would like to control the access of our Makerspace at school for K12-students. Regards
clever
Sounds like alot of "babysitting"!!! 😬 Why not instead us a UV Resin printer and print multiples with the base of the plate on edge attached to the print plate? 🤔 Heck! You could even use a translucent resin an backlight it with a Bi-Color Green/Red to indicate the enabled/disabled status of the machine circuitry?!
His name is Flipper! 😂
Learn some g code and you won't need to pause printing
I am sorry, the poster takes too long to introduce the topic. Description only needs a minute or so. This method is fine for old printers, most modern printers can place a layer of dissimilar material that will not stick to the supported layer, thus it doesn’t require any separate parts. For example, when printing with PLA, print the support top layer with PETG. There are plenty of videos describing this method.
A lot of us don’t have fancy multi-material machines, and this technique is simple and straightforward
The core is reusable, less time per print, and less wasted material. It has a lot to recommend it over printing new supports for every instance of a model.
On my ENDER 3 printer where no supports are required either. I have no means of making a "puck". CREATED in WINDOWS - 3D BUILDER. 🙂 ruclips.net/video/WTF3RpKDgD4/видео.html
the title of the video is misleading. Technically speaking, the red piece is still support. Even if it is a pre-printed part from a different material. ...btw. The red part could have a shaped fitting at the end so that there is no need to use tape.
Could have been a 30 second video.