3D Printing Without Supports Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 3 дек 2024
- This is an addon to the first 3D Printing Without Supports. It shows making overhangs and tunnels without traditional support. The first video in this series is: • 3D Printing Without Us...
You kind of blew my mind with these two videos.
Super clever and thank you for sharing!
It's called reusable supports, try using a smooth surface so it will be less grippy and spray it with a release agent.
Release agent would not be good because when printing over the core, the PLA must stick to the surface with enough adhesion to hold it in place. Otherwise it would peel up and cause a fail.
@@makerspace533 the bambu stuff with the foam applicator looks like it might be a re-branded (or cloned) version of Magigoo, which is a water-based and water soluble bed adhesive which usually releases nearly effortlessly once the bed and part have cooled sufficiently
@@makerspace533you're not wrong, but you're not right either. the part of this print that stops it from being able to just print as a bridge, is the holes that you're printing in it.
if these went through the solid mass of the print rather than in the void section, there would be no need for the PLA to actually adhere to the reusable support.
potentially using a PETG part for the core would allow the bits to release easier as well without needing release agents..
@@plussign - I made a similar comment, and was informed that the red piece _is_ in fact PETG. (this was mentioned in the part 1 video)
Thank you for your your time and effort sharing this with us. I have found this technique to be helpful and I've already started using it in 3D printing process after your previous video.
Looks really good. You mentioned the black cover looks nicer. Have you thought about a color change and embedded text for a completely 3D print? I imagine using the black plastic piece is faster than doing it all on the Bambu but an all in one print with no fasteners would be a really clean look.
👍👍👍👍
I love it! Thinking outside the box. This is a technique that I will be able to use on some projects in the future. Thanks
Continuing to up your game! Very impressive. Thanks for sharing. Never know when this technique could come in handy.
This is a really cool way to do things I was trying to print items at a cleaner recess. I had been printing on it's side to work with some of the overhang.
Very clever idea. Good design.
Which 15 idiots are giving this video a thumbs down? Some people are so ridiculous. Be happy that the good man is sharing his ideas with you and making the effort to make a video so that you don't die stupid. Very interesting technology. Good work my friend. Respect!!
Fantastic! I would just swap filaments in the AMS and print the top black then white writing over the top. I'm definitely going to give this a shot with ASA and HIPS for the support structure. Are the corners where the form meets the print radiused at all?
I'd think a quick dip in hot water to slightly soften the PLA would make the core much easier to remove.
The technic is interesting. In this case you can also adjust the orientation (standing on one of the short sides) or make use of different filaments. PLA and PETG don't bond to each other. Printing the parts in a different filament, or using one layer of a different filament in between would also solve the problem, without the need of pausing the printer for a manual step.
I should have mentioned that the red part was PETG. This was mentioned in the previous video.
@@makerspace533 Still mixtures off different plastic types are not recyclable in any way.
Man, this is going insane! Soo cool! 👍😁
what about appling high temperature kapton tape over the top of the blank? That way the material shouldn't stick?
Thanks for this, getting some interesting ideas for my own projects, in addition to finally learning how to pause a print (to add magnets in my case) from your last one 😂
can you add a .25° or .5° draft on the sides so your core will slide out easier ?
You need to be very precise on the layer height based on the design correct?
Why not print the front facing section in black? You can even add the text in white. Then it would look more like the original design.
Great. Keep testing.
At what stage did you use the Bambu glue? What did you apply it to? Thank you
I put the glue on the core (red PETG) so that the bridging had something to hold on to.
Thaks for sharing your follow up.
I may have missed it, but what if you printed the reusable support in PETG so it doesn’t stick as well?
Yes, I talked about it in the first video, but I got in a hurry and forgot to mention it again.
Is there a GitHub/etc for other spaces to implement their own MACS?
The problem is that the processor that was used, Particle Photon, and the RFID reader module are no longer available. This was designed about 8 years ago. I had some spare parts so I built a few additional unit to use as spares.
Thanks for such a simple suggestion.
fwiw: If you print the support in an incompatible filament (e.g. PETG support for PLA print) , it should make removal easier to remove.
there is a special water soluble filament especially designed for printing supports. Engineering plastics such abs, pc etc you wouldn't be able to print overhangs with no support.
He mentions it in the part 1 of these but his red core part is PETG.
@@AJcore Thank you for letting me know that!
Since he had problems separating it, I _assumed_ that the filaments were too similar. When I use PETG as normal support material for PLA, it's about that hard to remove, but I _assumed_ that it would be easier to remove since the pre-printed support item would be completely cold.
That's what I get for assuming. 🤦♂
@@MSM5500 the water soluble support is PVA. I think it's very expensive for what it is at about £60 per kilo. It works though, but only good for PLA. PETG is too hot for PVA.
Nice again! Iterating by the minute. Why would you not do it this way and skip the screws and other material. Maybe do it in two colors and and a harder material, it is a Bambu printer. When it pauses it can be switching color too. Again great growth in what two days?
you could absolutely do a filament change on any printer while it was paused for you to add the support, nothing bambu specific about that, even an old school makerbot could do that.
The reason is simply aesthetics. The smoke acrylic is easy to cut and engrave on the laser. The engraving is filled with "Lacquer Stick" . The laser can produce much cleaner text than the 3D printer. And, I designed this 8 years ago, that's why they were machined out of Corian, not 3D printed. 3D printers have come a long way. It sure is nice to have printers that don't look like a science fair project.
@@Person1873 I agree, have a prusa as well as Bambu . I was stating it as a , no extra time involved, solution. He could leave the other steps out saving on 2 other materials and the part being done when it comes off the plate. Unless he had other reasons, like aesthetics for doing it the same way. Like mentioned below.
Great tip thank you!
Just split the model and use locator pins (built into the slicer) then simply glue to 2 pieces together. Much faster and much more hands off.
I think you've missed the point of the video entirely
@@Person1873 How to make something more complex than it needs to be? When you do this for a living pal you'll understand that efficiency is more important.
@@Festivejelly When you get to the point in life where you know everything, why even continue? Asking for a friend.
@@Festivejelly In fact, this is much simpler this way.
Is the red part the same material as the white?
In the first part I explained this, I should have mentioned it again in this video. The red piece is made from PETG. The white material is PLA.
Hey, don't laugh I use AutoCAD to make 3D models. Good video
awsome
Why not just split the model..... I don't get it...
because then you wouldn't have a 1-piece print that comes out looking amazing?
It's bolted together.... You don't need to print this in 1 piece.... It's a giant waste of time, filament, and error prone...
Not anymore its not, dude needs to learn basic g code and he could do all of it without pausing the print@everettebinger5956
or you could have simply sliced that part standing upright on the bed and used a large brim to support a tall print
That's not perfect either, but the point of the video isn't even to make that specific print, it's to explore a different technique that perhaps on some other print down the line, it might be the best way.