Great Video, I purchased this controller (60 AMP essentially the same) for my boat and am OK with it. I use it to keep 400 AH lithium batteries charged, monitor with the BT2. My energy consumers use relatively low amperage except for the 12 volt fridge and that is somewhat low. My only issue is the Load terminals, they do not output voltage they are in the off mode all the time. It seems like the design is to output voltage when the panels are not powered (night), this makes no sense to me, unless you are simply using it for a timer after the panels stop producing. I thought the purpose of load is to use surplus energy when the batteries are topped off, that would be a great idea since the solar panels would not have any use for the solar energy after the batteries are at 100%+.
The manual states max input is: (Max. PV Input Power: 12V/520W, 24V/1040W) So either of these input voltages would equate to 43.33 amps input. (watts divided by voltage equals amps)
Just installed this controller on my boat! I have four 195watt panels that are all charging my two bank system.. house bank is six agm six volt golf cart batteries wired for 12 volts. My second bank is one HUGE 8D AGM deep cycle home depot battery to start my port engine and run my Anchor Windlass.. i would like to add my four 100 watt renogy flexible panels but not sure the best way to do it.. thought of having them just charge my 8d monster, and leave the other four 195 watt panels just charging my house bank... I expect I will need an additional controller to divide the input from the four 195's and the four 100's... Any thoughts????? Thanks guys!!
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10question I have like 5 amg batteries that I acquired they are 100ah each thinking of putting them in parallel what would be a good one to get 40amp/60/100??? And what would be good panels
Hi I looked at the manual on the rover 40, regarding the load terminals. I don't get it. What is this intended to power while there is no sun? The only thing I can think of powering (in an rv), is in the battery electrical rover 40 compartment, a fan. However it would be hotter when the sun is out and the batteries are charging, so i would think i would want the load to power this when the charging is on. But the load controls are only all on or off, or load on when not charging. What am i missing? thx.
My understanding is the load is used to power low amp draw items. It can be programed several different ways. Dusk to dawn for instance can be used for a porch light or night light. I've seen people use it for a heat lamp in a chicken coop. Maybe you would use it for an air circulating fan during specific times using the timer feature. If you are in an RV and maybe going to be coming back after the sun goes down you could have a night light or porch lights on using the load feature on the charge controller. It is somewhat confusing and does make a person wonder what the real intent is with this feature.
I have 10, 100 watt panels on a 12 volt system 5 panels in the array are southeast faceing and 5 are faceing southwest this helps me take advantage of the morning and afternoon sun. Over panneling up to 25 percent is normally never a problem as the controler will dump the excess power as heat. In my particular set up I have never exceeded 35 amps coming in.
Higher voltage systems allow for lower current, which reduces power losses in the wiring and makes the overall system more efficient. Lower cost for longer wire runs from the solar array to the charge controller. Also you can connect a larger array to the MPPT charge controller without exceeding the controller input limits. Essentially you can do more with a smaller MPPT charge controller and save money over having to purchase a larger amperage charge controller.
Thank you for this video. I'm a newbie with these things and discovering free energy. Very difficult to find a good controller with good price. I think I'll go with this.
You're welcome Serdar. I've been using Renogy solar products for several years now and I've been happy with their products. I wish you the best with your solar ventures and thanks for stopping by.
Open the DC Home app and click on your charge controller. There should be three dots ... in the upper right hand corner. That should give you two choices settings and history. Hope this helps you out.
I am having issues trying to figure out the right setting to turn the load off when my battery drops too low. Right now the load setting is at 15 which is the on/off mode. I am using the 2x 100 watt panels with the 30 amp charge controller. I am using this setup to run my surflo vacuum pump for maple sap. The solar panel keeps the battery topped up during the day but at night when the panel is not supplying power the battery will drain completely and throw the E03 error code. Which setting do I use so that the solar controller turns the pump (load)off when the battery volts/amps gets too low?
I don't know, I have mine set on 15 and it's always off. I am not using the load circuit on mine. I think the manual tells what all the different settings are used for in the load settings.
I don’t think it has a backlight. I’d have to look at the manual for reset instructions. You can download the manual off the Renogy website if you want to see it.
I have one renogy battery 12v, would this be ok to charge with one 100 watts and one 200 watts solar panels total 300 watts to charge battery every day ?
Hi friends, my mppt rover 40a is not giving accurate battery percentage, it is propperly configured in 12v and lifepo4 battery, battery is new and mppt too, any other setting to make or help? thanks, regards.
Tell me, will this 40A regulator be enough for 2x300W solar panels, or will it limit the capabilities of my solar panels? I have 2 110ah AGM 12V batteries. In the technical manual Renogy writes that 40A up to 520 Watt
Amps x Volts = Watts so if you divide your total watts by the battery voltage you'll know what size charge controller you'll need. (600 watts divided by 12.6 volts = 47.6 amps) You can't safely pull more amps than the charge controller is rated for. Your set up could possibly try to push 47.6 amps into your batteries. You will need to get a 60 amp charge controller for those two 300w solar panels if you are charging 12V batteries. If you use a 40 amp charge controller with 600w of solar you'll probably burn up the charge controller at some point. Hope this helps you out.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 Thank you very much for your quick reply. two batteries connected together (I don't know, parallel or series?) 2 x 110 ah AGM ... two panels at once two batteries ... would it be ok then? then by calculation it would give 25.2V, right? Or I would charge 2 batteries separately, each panel to one battery .. if I can, then 40A of the regulator will be enough then?
If you wire both the batteries and the solar panels in series making a 24 volt system instead of 12 volt system, you would be fine with the 40 amp charge controller. This might create other problems for you if you are running 12 volt items with your system though.
If I connect two batteries in parallel and not in series - (2 x 110ah in parallel) and connect these two solar panels 2 x 300W, will it make a difference? can i then use 40A RENOGY or 60A? The rule also applies here: 600w : 12v = 50A ?
Divide the total solar watts by the voltage you are charging at and that will give you the required amperage of the charge controller. This rule will apply no matter how you wire up the batteries. You basically have two choices, two 12v batteries wired in parallel and you're charging at 12v = 47 amp or larger charge controller. Two 12v batteries wired in series and you need to charge at 24v = you could get away with a 30 amp or larger charge controller.
I’ve had good luck with the 12 V 100 W panels they sell however I got burned big time on a commander charge controller Renorgy solar sold me it quit working shortly after warranty and they wouldn’t do anything at all about it they wouldn’t even offer me a discount on a new one nothing. I thought about these rovers however I’m not sure. has anybody had any luck with their sealed lead acid/AGM batteries they sell ? I looked at their 200 amp hours batteries however I’m afraid I’ll get them and they’ll stop working.
I have the app and on the controller I have managed to change the battery type but not on the app because it's asking the admin permision or something like that ? Does anyone know what to do please?
Yes if it's the first time setting up the app you have to set up Administrator privileges to change any settings while using the app. This prevents others from changing your settings unless they have your password. From the monitor page hit the + in the upper right corner of the screen. Click the + and then select Administrator from the drop down menu. It will ask you for a password and you'll want to input this password 135790123 the first time. This is the password key selected by the manufacturer. Once you hit confirm you can now make setting changes via the app. Now you may select the + again and select change password from the drop down menu if you want to change to a custom password of your choice. Hope this helps you out.
You're welcome! Glad to hear you got it set up! If you ever need to find that code again you can google search "renogy home app password" and it will usually pull it up for you. I'll also put that password in the description of this video so you'll be able to find it there. 👍
Go to where it has the Celsius setting and hold down the right arrow until it switches to Fahrenheit. Didn't go through all the comments so if someone already put this out then awesome
I have a slightly older model Rover 20A PG & the operation of it is causing me a near nervous breakdown! To explain.... I'm using the controller with a 100W Renogy panel & an inverter. Everything seems to work like a dream but.... The company has told me that I shouldn't be drawing power from the unit whilst it is being charged from the panel. This effectively stops all use during the day & I'm now wondering what, if any, is a safe amount of charge to be coming down from the panel to allow me to take power from the battery? Should I only use it at night or after 7.... 😵💫 I think the problem(s,) which I've been told could damage my battery, lies in the charging cycles which I now think are not designed/expecting an inverter to be using the system. The company have told me to put in a circuit breaker for whenever I want to draw power. I'm coming round to thinking that the MPPT is really not designed to work with a setup that uses an inverter? Any views/help?
I have been using two 100W panels and a 12V lead acid battery with a cheap 750W inverter for my camping set up. I have used power from the inverter anytime day or night. I haven't noticed any problems using it that way. I don't understand why they would tell you that.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 Thank you for your reply! I'm not sure either. 🤔 I've been happily using the setup in my beach cabin for a couple of years now with no issue that I was aware of. The only thing I can think of is when the *Rover* goes through its different charging cycles if pulling a charge, I'm wondering if that can interfere with/damage the battery? I know if I have the inverter "On" when the system goes into the "Boost" it can cause the inverter to flash up over voltage warnings. I'm so unsure on this now, & whilst waiting for a suitable circuit breaker to arrive, I've taken to clambering up on the roof to disconnect the panel once a maximum charge has been reached! I'll try & get back on to the company to get this resolved but my last communique with them really confirmed all this & told me to use a circuit breaker to stop electricity coming from the panel *IF* I was using the battery! 🤔
That all makes sense to me. This will be my first MPPT charge controller. My camping set up has a PWM so that may make a difference too. In my off grid workshop set up I will be using DC circuit breakers instead of fuses so I can easily isolate the solar array and battery bank simply by flipping a switch as you mentioned. What battery chemistry are you using? I suppose that may also make a difference due to the charge, boost and float differences for different battery types.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 I've got two 120amp sealed deep cycle leisure batteries. I'm now getting the impression the units are (poorly) designed for 12V use primarily.... Aside from the now warnings of using the kit with an inverter (must have cutout switch) it seems to have another horror in an "Equalisation" phase which occurs every 28th. day of the month. Despite asking Renogy if that is a calendar month or 28 days from when you start using the unit, I'm none the wiser but you are not supposed to use it at all then. Funny enough a neighbor who is a Sparks has turned up today so I'm going to run it all by him although most traditional electricians look upon solar as the "dark arts!" 😆 Thank you again for your interest & help. 👍
Sounds like the issue is when the charge controller goes into the different phases of the charge cycle. The voltage from the charge controller to the battery can vary several volts depending on where it is in the charge cycle. I'm guessing this variation of voltage can cause issues with the inverter. It will be interesting to hear what the sparky has to say about it all. 👍
hi, i have a problem, and i see.... a lot of people have the same problem..... i have a Controller Renogy Rover Li 20 A, and i buy 2 batteries LiPo4 X 100Ah each.... bluetooth from bateries, shows me 40% and the other one 46% , and ontroller shows me always 100% ......controller settings are on Li battery standard.... if i put any other keind of batery (not LiPO) will show the real batery status, if i put a LiPo battery...shows always 100%...Renogy support.....is really slow....and not so helpfull.... what i must do?
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 i will try this too, and i will wrote if goes or Not....because a lot of people have the same problem ...and..Thank u a lot !!!send u my greetings
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 i contact Renogy support and they say the controller SOC is not accurate... also....will never show the LIPO4 percent....
@@toculucian9340I’m having the same issue, with the controller always showing 100%. Settings are set to Lithium batteries. Sounds like I’ll be buying a separate battery monitor. Thank you
Thank you Iam, I will be using one of the below 3K inverters from Renogy with my 400 watt system for my DIY Off Grid Workshop. We'll see how it performs over time. It sure is a heavy inverter so I'm hoping it is a solid piece of equipment. Good luck with your search! renogy.sjv.io/5bdNB9
I've been running a small MMP brand 1,000 w all in one inverter from watts 247 it's good for about 145 volts open from the panels the cheaper version is good for 500 watts of solar runs awesome with three 24 volt 200 w Rich solar panels give an open voltage of about 136 volts. The higher voltage means that with less sunlight you still get charging because you exceed the voltage of the battery, my batterys two sok 206 amp hour 12 volt batteries. The same mpp unit can be had with thousand watts of solar capability and 24 volts in other models. Just make sure you use extremely heavy cables to the batteries I'm running number fours and it gives it enough punch I can run a 5000 BTU AC with this thing
The battery bank is what determines the voltage of the inverter you need to use. If you have a 24V battery bank you need a 24V inverter. If you have a 12V battery bank you need a 12V inverter. This charge controller will charge either a 12V or a 24V battery bank.
Will this charge 7S lipo to 29 volts? 28 volts? I am building a power station for camping/ fishing. I want a charger I can put 50 volt solar into, plus 36 volt stepped up from truck alternator, plus 36 volt from a 120 ac power supply. Will this work for all 3 inputs?
I'm not sure but the specs state a max battery voltage of 32V. You can download a PDF of the instruction manual near the bottom of the product page. I'll leave you a link and maybe you can find more specific information about your application there. I wish you the best with your project. Rover Li 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller renogy.sjv.io/kjXeoM
It needs to have a battery connected. Connecting a solar panel to the charge controller without a battery connected will damage the controller according to the instruction manual.
Here is an article I found with a Google Search on that subject. www.renogy.com/academy/power-conversion/Troubleshooting-ACr-on-Charge-Controllers?Rng_ads=30dfdebf70858a7b&kw=&ad=&gr=&ca=19980969067&pl=ga&gclid=Cj0KCQiAlsy5BhDeARIsABRc6Zto_IUZvUuGCcPTriNfisVVtJk9DlyMQMGVrvEzZWdQEr-QUtnr868aAlP3EALw_wcB&r_u_id=9188094281&gad_source=1
The manual sucks…lists abbreviations for all battery types without an index to what they mean for us that dont know. I’m unable to even get to the battery type screen??? I have standard flooded lead acid batteries , not sealed… what’s USE? I’m assuming FLD is what I want but cannot find a way to select!
My friend just bought this charge controller and overall it seems pretty good but, those little (microscopic) icons for battery types, not allowing a choice in temperature display between Celsius or Fahrenheit and no backlighted display means I would not recommend this charge controller to anyone else. There are lots of other brands to choose from. I like the EPever with the T-50 back lighted remote.
Considering I got these for $150AUD each and I'm Australian, and I wear my glasses like Ray and Mr DIY Homestead Projects should probably do more often, I definitely CAN recommend this to others :)
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
See the first video in the Off Grid Workshop Build
ruclips.net/video/gwSetK7_-f4/видео.html
Great Video, I purchased this controller (60 AMP essentially the same) for my boat and am OK with it. I use it to keep 400 AH lithium batteries charged, monitor with the BT2. My energy consumers use relatively low amperage except for the 12 volt fridge and that is somewhat low. My only issue is the Load terminals, they do not output voltage they are in the off mode all the time. It seems like the design is to output voltage when the panels are not powered (night), this makes no sense to me, unless you are simply using it for a timer after the panels stop producing. I thought the purpose of load is to use surplus energy when the batteries are topped off, that would be a great idea since the solar panels would not have any use for the solar energy after the batteries are at 100%+.
Been running my inverter compressor fridge. Samsung 254 .Off a 500 watt pure sinwave inverter wired to load .for over a year no problem.
Great to hear!
I have one on my 100 watt solar setup and its keeping my 100ah lithium battery constantly topped up. No worries so far.
I set mind up similar to you but it always goes back to factory settings. I’m stumped
Hi, great video, i understand that rover 40a have a maximum 100v pv input, but how many amps in the input? Thanks
The manual states max input is: (Max. PV Input Power: 12V/520W, 24V/1040W) So either of these input voltages would equate to 43.33 amps input. (watts divided by voltage equals amps)
Thankyou! i just bought one and im hypeddd!!!
It was my pleasure. So far I think it is a nice solar charge controller. I hope you enjoy it!
Just installed this controller on my boat! I have four 195watt panels that are all charging my two bank system.. house bank is six agm six volt golf cart batteries wired for 12 volts. My second bank is one HUGE 8D AGM deep cycle home depot battery to start my port engine and run my Anchor Windlass.. i would like to add my four 100 watt renogy flexible panels but not sure the best way to do it.. thought of having them just charge my 8d monster, and leave the other four 195 watt panels just charging my house bank... I expect I will need an additional controller to divide the input from the four 195's and the four 100's... Any thoughts????? Thanks guys!!
If you have 2 seperate battery banks with isotlators does this charge work with it and split the load of the panels?
Would this be able to run a small tv on a camper? Let’s say 3 hours max?
The solar charge controller only charges the battery bank. Your battery bank and inverter will be what runs the TV.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10question I have like 5 amg batteries that I acquired they are 100ah each thinking of putting them in parallel what would be a good one to get 40amp/60/100??? And what would be good panels
Hi I looked at the manual on the rover 40, regarding the load terminals. I don't get it. What is this intended to power while there is no sun? The only thing I can think of powering (in an rv), is in the battery electrical rover 40 compartment, a fan. However it would be hotter when the sun is out and the batteries are charging, so i would think i would want the load to power this when the charging is on. But the load controls are only all on or off, or load on when not charging. What am i missing? thx.
My understanding is the load is used to power low amp draw items. It can be programed several different ways. Dusk to dawn for instance can be used for a porch light or night light. I've seen people use it for a heat lamp in a chicken coop. Maybe you would use it for an air circulating fan during specific times using the timer feature. If you are in an RV and maybe going to be coming back after the sun goes down you could have a night light or porch lights on using the load feature on the charge controller. It is somewhat confusing and does make a person wonder what the real intent is with this feature.
How many 100watt panels can you hook to that 40amp controller?
That depends on how you wire the panels. In a 12V configuration you can use 5. If you wire the panels in a 24V configuration you can use 10.
Your voltage Makes a different on how many 12 volt has higher amps than 24 volt the higher the voltage the lower the amps
You can install total 750watts for 12v and double for 24v to get maximum power
I have 10, 100 watt panels on a 12 volt system 5 panels in the array are southeast faceing and 5 are faceing southwest this helps me take advantage of the morning and afternoon sun. Over panneling up to 25 percent is normally never a problem as the controler will dump the excess power as heat. In my particular set up I have never exceeded 35 amps coming in.
Can you run 24 volts into the controller from the panels and charge 12vovt batteries?
Yes, that is how I have mine set up.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 what are the benefits from this setup?
Higher voltage systems allow for lower current, which reduces power losses in the wiring and makes the overall system more efficient. Lower cost for longer wire runs from the solar array to the charge controller. Also you can connect a larger array to the MPPT charge controller without exceeding the controller input limits. Essentially you can do more with a smaller MPPT charge controller and save money over having to purchase a larger amperage charge controller.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 thank you great info
Thank you for this video. I'm a newbie with these things and discovering free energy. Very difficult to find a good controller with good price. I think I'll go with this.
You're welcome Serdar. I've been using Renogy solar products for several years now and I've been happy with their products. I wish you the best with your solar ventures and thanks for stopping by.
Thank you. Rego 12v 400ah is same?
I have a BT 1. Where in the app do you find settings? I see nothing.
Open the DC Home app and click on your charge controller. There should be three dots ... in the upper right hand corner. That should give you two choices settings and history. Hope this helps you out.
Click the three dots ... in the upper right hand corner.
Just got this one for a single 100ah fed by a 100w panel I was thinking it might be to much.. seems like it’s gonna be ok!
I am having issues trying to figure out the right setting to turn the load off when my battery drops too low. Right now the load setting is at 15 which is the on/off mode. I am using the 2x 100 watt panels with the 30 amp charge controller.
I am using this setup to run my surflo vacuum pump for maple sap. The solar panel keeps the battery topped up during the day but at night when the panel is not supplying power the battery will drain completely and throw the E03 error code. Which setting do I use so that the solar controller turns the pump (load)off when the battery volts/amps gets too low?
I don't know, I have mine set on 15 and it's always off. I am not using the load circuit on mine. I think the manual tells what all the different settings are used for in the load settings.
If I want to go 48v, do I change any setting on the charge controller?
You'll need a different controller
hi, to main questions, unit have backlight? how reset? thanks.
I don’t think it has a backlight. I’d have to look at the manual for reset instructions. You can download the manual off the Renogy website if you want to see it.
I have one renogy battery 12v, would this be ok to charge with one 100 watts and one 200 watts solar panels total 300 watts to charge battery every day ?
Sure
Hi friends, my mppt rover 40a is not giving accurate battery percentage, it is propperly configured in 12v and lifepo4 battery, battery is new and mppt too, any other setting to make or help? thanks, regards.
Can get that history data from the main screen? Thanks.
Tell me, will this 40A regulator be enough for 2x300W solar panels, or will it limit the capabilities of my solar panels? I have 2 110ah AGM 12V batteries. In the technical manual Renogy writes that 40A up to 520 Watt
Amps x Volts = Watts so if you divide your total watts by the battery voltage you'll know what size charge controller you'll need.
(600 watts divided by 12.6 volts = 47.6 amps) You can't safely pull more amps than the charge controller is rated for. Your set up could possibly try to push 47.6 amps into your batteries. You will need to get a 60 amp charge controller for those two 300w solar panels if you are charging 12V batteries. If you use a 40 amp charge controller with 600w of solar you'll probably burn up the charge controller at some point. Hope this helps you out.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 Thank you very much for your quick reply.
two batteries connected together (I don't know, parallel or series?) 2 x 110 ah AGM ... two panels at once two batteries ... would it be ok then?
then by calculation it would give 25.2V, right? Or I would charge 2 batteries separately, each panel to one battery .. if I can, then 40A of the regulator will be enough then?
If you wire both the batteries and the solar panels in series making a 24 volt system instead of 12 volt system, you would be fine with the 40 amp charge controller. This might create other problems for you if you are running 12 volt items with your system though.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 Thank you, you helped me a lot today. now i know more. Good luck my friend.
You're welcome and I wish you the best with your solar projects! Thanks for stopping by!
If I connect two batteries in parallel and not in series - (2 x 110ah in parallel) and connect these two solar panels 2 x 300W, will it make a difference? can i then use 40A RENOGY or 60A?
The rule also applies here: 600w : 12v = 50A ?
Divide the total solar watts by the voltage you are charging at and that will give you the required amperage of the charge controller. This rule will apply no matter how you wire up the batteries. You basically have two choices, two 12v batteries wired in parallel and you're charging at 12v = 47 amp or larger charge controller. Two 12v batteries wired in series and you need to charge at 24v = you could get away with a 30 amp or larger charge controller.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 I see. Thank you.
I’ve had good luck with the 12 V 100 W panels they sell however I got burned big time on a commander charge controller Renorgy solar sold me it quit working shortly after warranty and they wouldn’t do anything at all about it they wouldn’t even offer me a discount on a new one nothing. I thought about these rovers however I’m not sure. has anybody had any luck with their sealed lead acid/AGM batteries they sell ? I looked at their 200 amp hours batteries however I’m afraid I’ll get them and they’ll stop working.
I have the app and on the controller I have managed to change the battery type but not on the app because it's asking the admin permision or something like that ? Does anyone know what to do please?
Yes if it's the first time setting up the app you have to set up Administrator privileges to change any settings while using the app. This prevents others from changing your settings unless they have your password.
From the monitor page hit the + in the upper right corner of the screen. Click the + and then select Administrator from the drop down menu. It will ask you for a password and you'll want to input this password 135790123 the first time. This is the password key selected by the manufacturer. Once you hit confirm you can now make setting changes via the app. Now you may select the + again and select change password from the drop down menu if you want to change to a custom password of your choice. Hope this helps you out.
You're one of a kind dude! Thank you so much! It worked and I changed the password into my password. I appreciate your effort! Thank you!
You're welcome! Glad to hear you got it set up! If you ever need to find that code again you can google search "renogy home app password" and it will usually pull it up for you. I'll also put that password in the description of this video so you'll be able to find it there. 👍
so do i just not need a temp sensor because im using lithium batteries too ?
That's right, no temp sensor required for lithium batteries.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 thanks an thanks for the reply
No problem, you are quite welcome Jaaay g
Can you run these 24v in 12v out?
Yes, that's how I am running mine. You can go up to 100V in and 12V or 24V out with this charge controller.
Go to where it has the Celsius setting and hold down the right arrow until it switches to Fahrenheit. Didn't go through all the comments so if someone already put this out then awesome
Fake news, I tried and it didn't work
Well explained and thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Good explanation 💡
Thank you
I have a slightly older model Rover 20A PG & the operation of it is causing me a near nervous breakdown!
To explain....
I'm using the controller with a 100W Renogy panel & an inverter. Everything seems to work like a dream but.... The company has told me that I shouldn't be drawing power from the unit whilst it is being charged from the panel. This effectively stops all use during the day & I'm now wondering what, if any, is a safe amount of charge to be coming down from the panel to allow me to take power from the battery? Should I only use it at night or after 7.... 😵💫
I think the problem(s,) which I've been told could damage my battery, lies in the charging cycles which I now think are not designed/expecting an inverter to be using the system.
The company have told me to put in a circuit breaker for whenever I want to draw power.
I'm coming round to thinking that the MPPT is really not designed to work with a setup that uses an inverter?
Any views/help?
I have been using two 100W panels and a 12V lead acid battery with a cheap 750W inverter for my camping set up. I have used power from the inverter anytime day or night. I haven't noticed any problems using it that way. I don't understand why they would tell you that.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10
Thank you for your reply!
I'm not sure either. 🤔 I've been happily using the setup in my beach cabin for a couple of years now with no issue that I was aware of.
The only thing I can think of is when the *Rover* goes through its different charging cycles if pulling a charge, I'm wondering if that can interfere with/damage the battery?
I know if I have the inverter "On" when the system goes into the "Boost" it can cause the inverter to flash up over voltage warnings.
I'm so unsure on this now, & whilst waiting for a suitable circuit breaker to arrive, I've taken to clambering up on the roof to disconnect the panel once a maximum charge has been reached!
I'll try & get back on to the company to get this resolved but my last communique with them really confirmed all this & told me to use a circuit breaker to stop electricity coming from the panel *IF* I was using the battery! 🤔
That all makes sense to me. This will be my first MPPT charge controller. My camping set up has a PWM so that may make a difference too. In my off grid workshop set up I will be using DC circuit breakers instead of fuses so I can easily isolate the solar array and battery bank simply by flipping a switch as you mentioned. What battery chemistry are you using? I suppose that may also make a difference due to the charge, boost and float differences for different battery types.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10
I've got two 120amp sealed deep cycle leisure batteries.
I'm now getting the impression the units are (poorly) designed for 12V use primarily....
Aside from the now warnings of using the kit with an inverter (must have cutout switch) it seems to have another horror in an "Equalisation" phase which occurs every 28th. day of the month. Despite asking Renogy if that is a calendar month or 28 days from when you start using the unit, I'm none the wiser but you are not supposed to use it at all then.
Funny enough a neighbor who is a Sparks has turned up today so I'm going to run it all by him although most traditional electricians look upon solar as the "dark arts!" 😆
Thank you again for your interest & help. 👍
Sounds like the issue is when the charge controller goes into the different phases of the charge cycle. The voltage from the charge controller to the battery can vary several volts depending on where it is in the charge cycle. I'm guessing this variation of voltage can cause issues with the inverter. It will be interesting to hear what the sparky has to say about it all. 👍
Im confused, 100A input for 40A charge?
That's 100 dc volts max input.
hi, i have a problem, and i see.... a lot of people have the same problem..... i have a Controller Renogy Rover Li 20 A, and i buy 2 batteries LiPo4 X 100Ah each.... bluetooth from bateries, shows me 40% and the other one 46% , and ontroller shows me always 100% ......controller settings are on Li battery standard.... if i put any other keind of batery (not LiPO) will show the real batery status, if i put a LiPo battery...shows always 100%...Renogy support.....is really slow....and not so helpfull.... what i must do?
I’m not positive but I think the battery needs to be charged to full capacity first. Then from there the percentage should read accurately.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 i will try this too, and i will wrote if goes or Not....because a lot of people have the same problem ...and..Thank u a lot !!!send u my greetings
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 i contact Renogy support and they say the controller SOC is not accurate... also....will never show the LIPO4 percent....
@@toculucian9340I’m having the same issue, with the controller always showing 100%. Settings are set to Lithium batteries. Sounds like I’ll be buying a separate battery monitor. Thank you
Great video. Anyone have a recommendation for inverter for 400 watt solar? I will be using a lithium battery. 👍 Thank you.
Thank you Iam, I will be using one of the below 3K inverters from Renogy with my 400 watt system for my DIY Off Grid Workshop. We'll see how it performs over time. It sure is a heavy inverter so I'm hoping it is a solid piece of equipment. Good luck with your search! renogy.sjv.io/5bdNB9
I've been running a small MMP brand 1,000 w all in one inverter from watts 247 it's good for about 145 volts open from the panels the cheaper version is good for 500 watts of solar runs awesome with three 24 volt 200 w Rich solar panels give an open voltage of about 136 volts. The higher voltage means that with less sunlight you still get charging because you exceed the voltage of the battery, my batterys two sok 206 amp hour 12 volt batteries. The same mpp unit can be had with thousand watts of solar capability and 24 volts in other models. Just make sure you use extremely heavy cables to the batteries I'm running number fours and it gives it enough punch I can run a 5000 BTU AC with this thing
Can this controller have a 24 v battery bank and still power a 12 v inverter ?
The battery bank is what determines the voltage of the inverter you need to use. If you have a 24V battery bank you need a 24V inverter. If you have a 12V battery bank you need a 12V inverter. This charge controller will charge either a 12V or a 24V battery bank.
thank you going to set mine up next week
You're welcome Jeff, I wish you the best with your project.
Will this charge 7S lipo to 29 volts? 28 volts? I am building a power station for camping/ fishing. I want a charger I can put 50 volt solar into, plus 36 volt stepped up from truck alternator, plus 36 volt from a 120 ac power supply. Will this work for all 3 inputs?
I'm not sure but the specs state a max battery voltage of 32V. You can download a PDF of the instruction manual near the bottom of the product page. I'll leave you a link and maybe you can find more specific information about your application there. I wish you the best with your project.
Rover Li 40 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller
renogy.sjv.io/kjXeoM
does this charge controller require a battery or can i just use the solar power
It needs to have a battery connected. Connecting a solar panel to the charge controller without a battery connected will damage the controller according to the instruction manual.
Is there a wifi option available?
I don’t think so with this particular charge controller.
My LCD display is cut in half... difficult to impossible to read
I have a ACR symbol on screen, what does that mean
Here is an article I found with a Google Search on that subject.
www.renogy.com/academy/power-conversion/Troubleshooting-ACr-on-Charge-Controllers?Rng_ads=30dfdebf70858a7b&kw=&ad=&gr=&ca=19980969067&pl=ga&gclid=Cj0KCQiAlsy5BhDeARIsABRc6Zto_IUZvUuGCcPTriNfisVVtJk9DlyMQMGVrvEzZWdQEr-QUtnr868aAlP3EALw_wcB&r_u_id=9188094281&gad_source=1
The manual sucks…lists abbreviations for all battery types without an index to what they mean for us that dont know. I’m unable to even get to the battery type screen??? I have standard flooded lead acid batteries , not sealed… what’s USE? I’m assuming FLD is what I want but cannot find a way to select!
good. i like it in parts too.
well done overview...thanks
You are welcome, thanks for stopping by.
Disregard his 100 Amp Battery or PV Input.
He meant 100 VDC Maximum PV Input.
Maximum Battery Input Voltage is 32 VDC.
Max Output to Battery 40 A.
100 volt input, not 100 amp.
That's correct
That's not the official renogy app
My friend just bought this charge controller and overall it seems pretty good but, those little (microscopic) icons for battery types, not allowing a choice in temperature display between Celsius or Fahrenheit and no backlighted display means I would not recommend this charge controller to anyone else. There are lots of other brands to choose from. I like the EPever with the T-50 back lighted remote.
Considering I got these for $150AUD each and I'm Australian, and I wear my glasses like Ray and Mr DIY Homestead Projects should probably do more often, I definitely CAN recommend this to others :)
Not being able to set the temperature units to rocks and sticks units should not hold you back from getting one of these.
LOL like how often are you going to be starring at a screen? It' s not a TV or monitor plus you have the app.
Just what you need, did not explain…
US is the only country that has not moved from Fahrenheit to Celsius. Time to learn Celsius
Time for another country to land humans on the moon.
Can I use a 24 volt battery and have a 12 volt output?
Not without using additional equipment and it's not very efficient.