Wood Splitter Cylinder Repair
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- Опубликовано: 24 июн 2022
- Come along as we repair a cylinder leak on our Huskee 22-ton log splitter.
Part number for the repair is: (S39017800) Splitter Part, 4 IN CYL Seal Kit
I purchased the seal kit from www.foards.com
www.foards.com/search?type=pr...
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i TOOK SEVERAL DAY TRYING TO FIND THE SEALS THAT I NEEDED TO REPAIR MY HUSKEE 22 TON LOG SLITTER CYLINDER. THIS VIDEO SENT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION BY PROVIDING THE PART NUMBER AND WHERE I COULD PURCHASE THE SEALS. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE REPAIR DEMO. MY HUSKEE 22 TON CYLINDER NO LONGER LEAKS AND RUNS LIKE NEW.
You are very welcome! Glad you got yours fixed
Thanks for the video big help. Mine us up and running again
Best to order a seal kit when you buy a new machine, you never know when it will be dropped and not available 😊😊😊2/3 kits best 😊
If you dress the end of the rod with a diamond stone the end cap won't need to be hammered .
The rod end where the pin goes through spreads a little with use which causes the binding.
Thank you for this video. I purchased the parts and followed your video to fix the splitter cylinder. Had to use the come along also to get it to come out. After that, all went well. No leaks. Thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm getting ready to do the exact same thing with a very similar splitter. It's always helpful to see someone do a project before doing it for yourself. Great video.
You are very welcome!!! Thanks for watching!!!
I like it alot. You showed every step that needed to be done. It was very helpful for my Husband who is disabled. Thanks again
You are very welcome!! Please read some of the comments! I'm totally not a mechanic! Just a home owner trying to DYI and save some money!
I prefer not to strike metal parts with a metal hammer to avoid damaging the cylinder rod. When driving in the cylinder gland to access the large snap ring you should consider using a wood dowel with a hard rubber or even wooden mallet. Also, the general rule when installing seals and o-rings is to always lubricate them on the areas that make contact with the cylinder rod or inside the cylinder case. When pulling the rod and piston out of the case, try to make sure it's being pulled out perfectly straight. Even a tiny bit of tilt can case the piston to bind inside the case.
Thank you very much for the tips and information!
Use air pressure to push it out
He could easily have scratched his shaft and never be able to keep from wrecking his seals.
I did this fix and suggest the following:
I removed the cylinder from the splitter, stood it upright, secured it in place so it wouldn't fall over (or you could have a helper hold it for you if one is available), pushed the shaft all the way into the cylinder so only 4-6" protruded. Use a 9" piece of schedule 40 PVC (slide it OVER the protruding section of shaft). Use PVC or ABS or any other non-metallic pipe. Do not use METAL of any kind! Holding the operating lever open, I tapped the PVC and the gland moved back from the retaining ring quite easily and as far as I needed to give me clear access to the ring. Once it was free from it's position against the ring it moved relatively easily. Using a screwdriver on the opposite side from the gap I was able to push the ring inward, which lifted the split ends from the groove and made removing the ring simple using a pair of pliers. It's important to know that even any air pressure in the cylinder will make moving the gland difficult to move so the operating valve must be kept open to eliminate any internal cylinder pressures. The PVC not only applies equal pressure around the circumference, but also protects the shaft from any damage. Even a small nick or scratch will prematurely wear the new seals out. NEVER go metal -to- metal on these parts!
This procedure is the hardest part of the entire seal replacement operation, however, tapping on the gland applies even pressure around the entire circumference and does not allow it to bind, which can happen when applying pressure on only one point. If you have a helper you can even hold a small piece of board on the end of the PVC to provide a flat surface on which to strike.. You will be surprised as to how easily the gland will move without any pressure in the cylinder. It's best to remove the hoses that feed the valve assembly which will lose a little oil, but empty that unit. Any oil or air in the cylinder will make removing the gland very difficult and require more force than necessary to move it away from the retaining ring. There is very little tolerance between the gland and the cylinder wall and working at this with the cylinder in an horizontal position only creates binding problems as the shaft has weight and it is virtually impossible to hold it perfect in this position. Highly recommend doing this step with the cylinder vertically positioned. You can lay it back horizontally to facilitate final shaft removal.
To facilitate the inner new inner seal replacement, buy the tool kit on Amazon for $24. It's worth it as it minimizes the risk of damaging the new seal. Seal material is not pliable or "soft" and manually jamming and forcing the innermost seal into it's groove can cause mis-positioning or damage that you may only discover once the unit is back together. Be careful once the shaft is out. It's polished for a reason. The last thing you want to do at this point is mar it in any way. I cannot stress this enough. Work carefully, slowly, keep the area clean and look at the old seals BEFORE you remove them to ensure that you place the new ones in correctly. The one innermost gland seal will probably come out in pieces, especially if the wiper seal has been compromised. The new one is installed with the visible embedded black ring facing into the cylinder. Having the seal installation tool will make installing the new one much easier. Good luck!
Thank you for such a detailed instruction!!!
A few days after fixing the log splitter I replaced seals on our New Holland front loader lift cylinder. This had a screw-on gland and again the biggest problem was breaking it loose to open the cylinder. Once it broke free it didn't take long to replace the seals on both glands, reassemble the cylinder and re-install it on the tractor. There's a RUclips vlog "Abom79" and he goes into this subject in depth for anyone interested. Thanks again for your post it was very helpful.
What is this installation tool on Amazon? Can you provide a link? Ty
Thank you for the video! I'm gonna tackle my project this weekend as long as I get the parts on time
That’s awesome!! You got this! The hardest part was removing the internal ram from the cylinder
I think one thing I'm gonna do that should help is as in putting it out(with a come along) I'm going to tap around the outside of the cylinder with a rubber mallet, that should help it not shoot out like a rocket I thinj
Interesting to see this as I was looking at making a splitter something like this using standard hydraulic parts. I have a couple of the cheap Chinese splitters but it has proved difficult to get spare parts for them.
Thank you on this bit of information. The cap at end was were I was unsure. Recessed to remove😃
Glad it helped
Thanks for video…I’m doing mine and this really helped!
Glad it helped! You're welcome!
You have to love the dedication to mechanical do it yourself projects in the US, unfortunately in my area real diy projects are scarce. Brother's attitude on dull chains and mechanical problems is drop them at the shop. Last time a month and a half wait.
Yet few are hiring local labor; the reliance is on foreign Hispanics; my brother rarely hires anyone long term local. Doing work in Westport last week the house owner had an electrical short, started swearing like a gutter dog because it meant he may need to bring in an electrician.
Use grease! Clean the ram end where bolt goes thru with a file. There may be starp edges that could cut the new center seal
Great idea! Thanks!
Good tip. People don't realize that the wedge bolt can cause the rod to become out of round (peened) near the edges of the rod bolt hole. The cylinder gland should slide on and off without much effort.
Good job sir.
Most welcome
Great video thanks!
You're welcome!
this might help someone if you find out your cylinder was made without an allen screw to dismantle it. My splitter is the same model but the cylinder has a spring only to pull the piston. Use the same procedure as he shows to remove fluid. Then, take a piece of wood and hammer and tap the end plug down about a half inch. The spring wire is exposed and you can remove it. Pull the shaft out and replace the seals. When putting it back line up the end plug the same way that it came out. Again, go about 1/2” further than the end and reinstall the spring wire. Add fluid and the first time you extend the wedge the plug will stop at the spring wire.
Thanks Paul for your input! I'm sure it will help someone out!
Man yours still looks brand new.. mine is 20yrs old and has sat outside uncovered the whole time and never had the filters or oil changed and is missing half the paint.. now it was already nearly that bad 2yrs ago when it was given to me by my step-dad so not really all my fault. Yours has a different engine, mine is a 650 series B-Stratton 6.5hp and the top part the starter attaches to just rusted and broke off so ive got it held on w/zip ties lol. Just a tiny leak around the control valve where the hoses screw in.. was just watching this to see if it was worth fixing, putting a new engine on, or just getting a new one
Damn 20 years old! i bought mine back in 2011. I'm wondering when the engine is going to blow!!!!
@@themintoshow it sat outside all last winter uncovered and still started on the 1st pull. It's at least 20yrs old and was still splitting some wood today. Been doing almost 30-cord per year last 2yrs and about 10cord each year prior, and I don't believe it was ever covered or had the hydraulic oil or engine oil changed as crazy as that sounds. Still never found a log that thing would not split.
I just completed my seal repair all went ok. A little tricky removing the cylinder but I took precautions after watching your video and that really helped. I got my seal kit from Foards but I can not figure out where the small rubber gasket goes that came in the kit. I put it back together without it, I hope all works well when I start it up. Can you tell me where that small gasket was suppose to go?
That is awesome Joe!!! I had the same problem!!! I have no clue where that small rubber gasket goes. I looked and looked but couldn't figure out where it was supposed to go.
This was very helpful. I am currently in the process of putting the new seals in and cannot remember when I removed the middle blue seal if the black ring part faces outward or inward? Does anyone remember this part?
Thank you.
I'm glad the video helped!!! I really can't remember how I positioned the blue seals. Mine were pretty broken up. I'm hoping another viewer or someone from Foards will chime in.
🤨 the perfect video of how NOT to do this job! This has to be the most painful video i`ve ever seen replacing the seals.
After you yanked the ram out, hitting it on the log stop plate, gouging the hell out of the ram, you`ll be back in there fixing torn up seals that the damaged ram will rip apart, soon.
I cringed so bad when that cylinder shot out and smacked the splitter… it looks like it put a descent mare in the cylinder… if it’s at all rough you’re going to want to file it smooth carefully or it will wear your seals out prematurely.
Yeah frustration lead to that mistake. I did put a small mare in the cylinder. I’ll take a closer look at and see if it needs to be filed. Thanks for suggestion!
I cringed also when it came out, hope you didn't marr it up like I did except I hit mine with a hatchet trying to finish a split that had a bunch of strands still keeping it together now even though I filed it and smoothed it out with emery paper the cylinder leaks down now when left in the upright position
Any suggestions on how to straighten a twisted beam on a log splitter?
Damn! What in the world happen? I’m really not sure.
@@themintoshow One side rail that keeps the wedge tracking straight was not welded correctly was pushed out by the wedge/ram and by time I realized what was happening the rail was bent with the wedge pushing into it and twisting the beam. A couple others posted vids of the rails not being welded and being loose but I did not see those until researching afterwards.
ruclips.net/video/ywV_sc6MUSU/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/H36AOfLpe3U/видео.html&ab_channel=MarkSalamack
Mine is leaking just a bit where the hoses go in and out
oh wow! I haven't had that problem yet
What is the last screw for? Mine is missing.
I'm pretty sure it's the screw that holds the metal cylinder wire ring.
Different splitter. My cylinder was leaking internally causing the fluid to overheat and spew out the vent cap. It was easier to just order a new cylinder to an upgraded one an inch bore size larger.
Yeah I might do that next time. was a new cylinder expensive?
@@themintoshow this was 6 years ago it wasn't cheap 5 hundred bucks but it's a prince cylinder. I could of gotten one for a 150 bucks but I didn't want China made. Thanks to Bidenomics that same cylinder that cost 5 hundo 6 years ago cost 8 hundo now.
Wow!!! Thanks for the info!!!
Where did you order the seal kit from please
Part number for the repair is: (S39017800) Splitter Part, 4 IN CYL Seal Kit
I purchased the seal kit from www.foards.com
www.foards.com/search?type=product&q=%28S39017800%29+Splitter+Part%2C+4+IN+CYL+Seal+Kit
@@themintoshow your cylinder looks just like mine yet mine is a 30 ton. Would the cylinder be the same and the hydraulic pump make the difference in splitting power?
@@themintoshow and I mean looks the same down to the bent pipe on the side.
I really can't say if the repair kit that I bought for mine would work for you. I would call Foards and I'm sure they would be happy to help you find the correct part.
What did the seal kit cost?
The part is listed at foards.com for $58.70 plus shipping.
@@themintoshow local farm store "Orschlein" in Mt. Home, Ar. $50.00 @ 1 week wait.
You was lucky didn't scare the shaft when it hit the end
Yes! Lesson learned!
I knew what was going to happen before it happened. That much pressure it was sure to pop out and ding the shaft. Not good.
Just Losen the lines to the cly
that was funny
Thanks!
Just rebuilt haha
I cringed when you were using a hammer and pipe to drive on the piston, rod, and end cap. Use something soft to drive on these pieces, you can damage those pieces by just hitting on them with a steel hammer. Also, you need to protect everything when taking it apart, that spill it took when the rod came out was bad. All those cylinder parts are pretty fragile. Any surface damage on the rod especially is going to cause you issues down the road.
Putting it back together dry was also cringe worthy. Use hydraulic oil to lube everything during assembly.
Thanks for all the information! Great tips! I'm sure this will help others out with their repair!
so this is a video on everything not to do... right?
Damn Dustin! I laughed so hard when I read your comment.
You probably broke