When covid was still going strong, i took my 2nd stimulus and bought a rigexpert AA-600 and a stryker V1. At the time it was the only one available pre-modified on ebay. I wish i would have took the time to get a later model and mod it myself. I wish more people in this hobby would share knowledge and teach like you. I'm sure this info will help in the future, thanks for helping us out.
Appreciate that mate. The problem with teaching is that if I say something I have 10 clowns that want to go forum shop to find someone that says its wrong, for some minor reason. I wrote something up one day and the ENTIRE ONE PARAGRAPH ANSWER was said to be wrong. Why? because i flipped a couple of characters in a word - common misspelling mistake. So it was "all wrong" I am getting too old and too grumpy for armchair engineers :)
Thanks, I did this on my new 655 and it works perfectly. I also found the way to get into the service menu and adjusted the low and high power set points and the low and high modulation rates. I set it so I could adjust my dead key down to a watt and a half and the high to about 20 watts. I adjusted the low power modulation for a maximum PEP swing of about 50 watts. I have a 2 pill 1446 (on low) driving an 8 pill 2290 (Texas Star Hotplate) into a 5/8 ground plane and getting around 1400 watts PEP out. Everyone says it sounds great. Styrker radio's rock......
Hold down the color button while turning the radio on. Rotate channel selector to item you want to change, key up the radio and rotate channel selector to change setting, un key radio and setting is saved. Accessing the service menu at your own risk. If you are not sure on what you're doing, stay out of service menu but if you do write down the factory setting before you change anything thing. The only things I changed was AM low power, AM high power, AM low modulation and AM high modulation. I put the AM low and high power to 82 (keeps my dead key around 1-1/2 watts no matter where the RF power is) i set the AM low modulation to 45 (maximum swing at low power) and AM high modulation to 60 (reduced modulation to avoid distortion at full power. At low power radio keys 1-1/2 watts and swings about 10 watts PEP. At full power radio key is the same but swings full output 60 to 65 watts PEP. I selected these settings so I can run my 2x8 box with radio on low power or run barefoot with radio alone at full power. Your settings may vary but is a good starting point.
Just now watched your video and converted mine....Works great and your video was extremely helpful. For some reason, I didn't have to switch modes...I soldered the wire and it was already there when I turned it on.THANKS!
I did my buddies radio tonight and it would not power on option. I just hit the band switch and 11m was there. it had the 6 thru holes with just solder in them. I hope I jumped it properly....it works fine. I did top and bottom on the left topside
Thanks for that video! I've been seeing some mentions about "Adjusting the Bias" on the SR955. What is that about? I mean, why would they want to do that in the first place? Rich
Mark I have a question sir, after the mod you can use the radio for cb, but can you still use it for ham also. I’m currently studying for my ham and this would be really cool. Thank you for to your time
After doing this what about the so called “peek and tune alignment” all that good stuff is it no longer needed since there are no pods to turn. Is it good right out of the box to transmit on after the conversion?
I have added the wire to my radio (955) but when I power on the radio holding the func and color keys I do NOT get the “ham mode” It just goes to the standard screen. I do however get 11 meter now. Any ideas why my radio is different?
The audio chain stuff, yeah... but generally the amps that people try to put in there are not shielded properly and you end up with issues. It can be done it's just done poorly 99% of the time.
How can I buy a new 955 v2 that has got the wire to snip to convert it to 11m.??? I can snip a wire but my hands aren't steady enough to be soldering inside a $440 radio. The only radio "shop" that works on cb's want to charge like ,$220 to convert peak and tune one, which is crazy since the v2 is all in the software (no golden screwdriver necessary).
I would call some dealers and ask for one that is just modded but not touched. Now, their price is their price but 220 dollars is excessive in my opinion.
Gawd.... what i could do with 220$..... just to undo 4 screws and snip a wire, or solder a wire..... Idear.... go to a parts shop that sells resisters and capacitors to people, and ask the guy at the counter if he knows someone that is handy with a soldering iron..... (for example, these old pioneer hifi repair and recap people could do this job in a second and proberly wouldnt charge you a cent if you showed them this video on your phone to the technician...... Other from that, buy a soldering iron (25watt, small type) and practice on an old circuit board untill you master the skill..... S.A.S motto.... "he who dares wins" Yes im from the u.k....
Im led to believe that it already is set up to work after either the snip, or the addition of the wire. You could have a chat with your tech, but it should be fine from what this channel has said.
Mine isn’t giving me the option for ham/hf mode after modification while turning the radio as instructed. The video wasn’t clear of you would have access to Band 4 before the modification. I did the modification before ever powering the radio on so now I’m not sure where I’m at.
Hey Mark, I didn't check beforehand but after I did this mod all I can get out of the radio on any channel is 1.4 watts using an inline swr/power meter? I noticed when I booted up after the jumper was installed it didn't go to Ham mode, nor was there any "HF" to switch to. I do have all the CB channels on band D, but I'm concerned because of everything else. This is for my SR-655HPC. Thanks for any advice.
I have a 955hpc thats about maybe 10 years old and brand new. Obtained from a family member bought this days before he passed and now I am finally ready to use it. I dont see a wire on my version, and my board looks completely different than yours. any way you can point me in right direction?
@@Mark19960 Thanks, after posting my comment I did some research on the unit and found that it is indeed modded already and tested at the shop it was purchased at. Now I realize that it's just too big to install in the vehicle I wanted to install in so it's going up for sale soon.
Well you still have to go into the menu to change from HF to HAM and vice versa. You still have to add the wire to the current radios so adding a switch would not change anything for you.
On my 655 the top and middle solder points are soldered together. It doesn't look like the 655 you are together but separated, can any one help on this
To answer your question as to an RF generator "blowing up" or causing it to "have distortion" ... not usually no. RF generators have an RPP system. RPP being reverse power protection. If you transmitted on a radio into it.. They will go clunk.. and scream RPP at you on the screen. The input is disconnected. Unless you shove a lot of power into one (usually > 50 watts CW depending on frequency) it's going to survive quite happily after you take away the RF source and usually hit a key or button on the screen to have it start generating RF again. The people that design RF generators already thought of that.....
It increases the ammount of channels or bands that you can use, but with the wider spread, you must keep an eye on your swr readings..... a variable swr tuner with "load" and "plate" adaptor/meter would be very usefull, but i believe some car aerils like whips can be tuned to do both the 11 and 10 meter bands by an alankey sliding the whip in and out abit for whichever you want to use...... 73's
Yer.... 19960 (19-9-60) in the uk we would say 19th of 9th month September 1960, which would make him 63 years old, 64 in this year of 2023.... lol....
True. I will add it to the list of items to cover when I go over the differences. There are some reasons why shortening the radio isn't the best idea either.
Doing that would be a re-tool / new chassis, doesn't make sense dollar wise as well as that extra aluminum chassis may help heat dissipation on that V reg side. IMHO
@@vicrod74 I see both sides. I work with both sides. It might be a "waste of space" but the practical reasons remain.. and ultimately the decision to keep things as they are was the most sensible one.
When covid was still going strong, i took my 2nd stimulus and bought a rigexpert AA-600 and a stryker V1. At the time it was the only one available pre-modified on ebay. I wish i would have took the time to get a later model and mod it myself. I wish more people in this hobby would share knowledge and teach like you. I'm sure this info will help in the future, thanks for helping us out.
Appreciate that mate. The problem with teaching is that if I say something I have 10 clowns that want to go forum shop to find someone that says its wrong, for some minor reason. I wrote something up one day and the ENTIRE ONE PARAGRAPH ANSWER was said to be wrong. Why? because i flipped a couple of characters in a word - common misspelling mistake. So it was "all wrong"
I am getting too old and too grumpy for armchair engineers :)
@@Mark19960 I know what you mean. To many people these days would rather act like they know everything than be humble.
By chance can you share how to do 447 conversion
Thanks, I did this on my new 655 and it works perfectly. I also found the way to get into the service menu and adjusted the low and high power set points and the low and high modulation rates. I set it so I could adjust my dead key down to a watt and a half and the high to about 20 watts. I adjusted the low power modulation for a maximum PEP swing of about 50 watts. I have a 2 pill 1446 (on low) driving an 8 pill 2290 (Texas Star Hotplate) into a 5/8 ground plane and getting around 1400 watts PEP out. Everyone says it sounds great. Styrker radio's rock......
How did you make the adjustments?
How did you do that?
Hold down the color button while turning the radio on. Rotate channel selector to item you want to change, key up the radio and rotate channel selector to change setting, un key radio and setting is saved. Accessing the service menu at your own risk. If you are not sure on what you're doing, stay out of service menu but if you do write down the factory setting before you change anything thing. The only things I changed was AM low power, AM high power, AM low modulation and AM high modulation. I put the AM low and high power to 82 (keeps my dead key around 1-1/2 watts no matter where the RF power is) i set the AM low modulation to 45 (maximum swing at low power) and AM high modulation to 60 (reduced modulation to avoid distortion at full power. At low power radio keys 1-1/2 watts and swings about 10 watts PEP. At full power radio key is the same but swings full output 60 to 65 watts PEP. I selected these settings so I can run my 2x8 box with radio on low power or run barefoot with radio alone at full power. Your settings may vary but is a good starting point.
That's an easy enough radio modification Mark. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much Mark. I just got my 955 and couldnt understand why I didnt have a wire. You just saved me bro.... 73's....
No worries mate. It may change yet again.. and if it does I will put that info up as well.
@@Mark19960 Thanks again, just soldered it in and , presto changeoooo....... It works :)
Just now watched your video and converted mine....Works great and your video was extremely helpful. For some reason, I didn't have to switch modes...I soldered the wire and it was already there when I turned it on.THANKS!
mine did same thing i tried several time to get the mode to show up
Thanks man . Just ordered a 955 yesterday , kinda hope its the one that has the wire , lol .
Cheers mate, great to see the helpful info!
Thank you mark. Have you heard from Mike latley
I did my buddies radio tonight and it would not power on option. I just hit the band switch and 11m was there. it had the 6 thru holes with just solder in them. I hope I jumped it properly....it works fine. I did top and bottom on the left topside
Thanks for that video! I've been seeing some mentions about "Adjusting the Bias" on the SR955. What is that about? I mean, why would they want to do that in the first place?
Rich
I always wonder why they don’t cut out that bare extra long chasis section out so the radio could fit in more smaller places.
Looks like it could be easily shortened
I bet they are burning up inventory. Bigger box make people think its a better radio?
Mark I have a question sir, after the mod you can use the radio for cb, but can you still use it for ham also. I’m currently studying for my ham and this would be really cool. Thank you for to your time
Yes... it seems all bands are available 73's
Excellent information.Have a V1 955 and trying to justify purchasing a V2. Nice radio.
Why?
Because maybe he wants to own both versions @newhampshirehomestead
can you tell me exactly what this does? Does it turn it into a CB radio or does it boost the power ?
After doing this what about the so called “peek and tune alignment” all that good stuff is it no longer needed since there are no pods to turn. Is it good right out of the box to transmit on after the conversion?
I don't understand why a wire is used for the connection. Why not just solder the pins together?
I have added the wire to my radio (955) but when I power on the radio holding the func and color keys I do NOT get the “ham mode” It just goes to the standard screen. I do however get 11 meter now. Any ideas why my radio is different?
where could I get tue document for the 955 conversion from 10 meter to 11 meter
i soldered the wire in i have tried several times when i turn on radio holding color and function ket i do not get the ham mode
Can you communicate with people on ch19 now?
Yes.
Think of all the good things that can be mounted in that big empty space inside (Asymod, RM Italy, EQ, ect).
The audio chain stuff, yeah... but generally the amps that people try to put in there are not shielded properly and you end up with issues. It can be done it's just done poorly 99% of the time.
How can I buy a new 955 v2 that has got the wire to snip to convert it to 11m.??? I can snip a wire but my hands aren't steady enough to be soldering inside a $440 radio. The only radio "shop" that works on cb's want to charge like ,$220 to convert peak and tune one, which is crazy since the v2 is all in the software (no golden screwdriver necessary).
I would call some dealers and ask for one that is just modded but not touched.
Now, their price is their price but 220 dollars is excessive in my opinion.
Gawd.... what i could do with 220$..... just to undo 4 screws and snip a wire, or solder a wire.....
Idear.... go to a parts shop that sells resisters and capacitors to people, and ask the guy at the counter if he knows someone that is handy with a soldering iron..... (for example, these old pioneer hifi repair and recap people could do this job in a second and proberly wouldnt charge you a cent if you showed them this video on your phone to the technician......
Other from that, buy a soldering iron (25watt, small type) and practice on an old circuit board untill you master the skill.....
S.A.S motto.... "he who dares wins"
Yes im from the u.k....
Thank you for the video. I saw another which says a diode needs to be removed... this stuff is confusing to me. Can you elaborate on that? 🙏
A diode?
Can you send me what you saw? I don’t know what that could possibly be.
Awesome...no issues!
Is there a resister you have to take out before you do this
third production run ! .. Meaning version 3 Radio's ? Thanks
What’s that going to do to the radio performance? You showed how to solder but what’s that ops going to do ?
It will need to be placed on the bench, preferably an Oscilloscope and checked, the electrical flo, bios has just been changed.
Im led to believe that it already is set up to work after either the snip, or the addition of the wire. You could have a chat with your tech, but it should be fine from what this channel has said.
Mine isn’t giving me the option for ham/hf mode after modification while turning the radio as instructed. The video wasn’t clear of you would have access to Band 4 before the modification. I did the modification before ever powering the radio on so now I’m not sure where I’m at.
It seems that the menu was taken out in later versions of the software after I did this video so all thats needed is the wire.
@@Mark19960 sweet! I will get it installed in my semi truck today and give it a whirl.
*Can a Stryker SR-955h be Modified just a Stryker SR-655 can?*
*Is there a Advantage one Vs the Other?!?*
Hey Mark,
I didn't check beforehand but after I did this mod all I can get out of the radio on any channel is 1.4 watts using an inline swr/power meter? I noticed when I booted up after the jumper was installed it didn't go to Ham mode, nor was there any "HF" to switch to. I do have all the CB channels on band D, but I'm concerned because of everything else. This is for my SR-655HPC.
Thanks for any advice.
Where did the instructions document come from
IS THERE A WAY I CAN ORDER A STRYKER 955 OR A 497 OR A 655 FROM SOMEONE THAT KNOWS WHAT THERE DOING
I have a 955hpc thats about maybe 10 years old and brand new. Obtained from a family member bought this days before he passed and now I am finally ready to use it. I dont see a wire on my version, and my board looks completely different than yours. any way you can point me in right direction?
that's the version 1 radio. you need to take it to a shop if it's not been modified.
@@Mark19960 Thanks, after posting my comment I did some research on the unit and found that it is indeed modded already and tested at the shop it was purchased at. Now I realize that it's just too big to install in the vehicle I wanted to install in so it's going up for sale soon.
So this is 60watts of power on CB 👀👀👀 any particular antenna setup you recommend for this radio? Both mobile and base setup
not really mate. i use simple antennas myself.
did the same and it doesn't work on my radio, can't get it to show on the display either way
So if you installed a switch instead of the jumper wire could you switch between the stock and mod without damaging the radio?
Well you still have to go into the menu to change from HF to HAM and vice versa.
You still have to add the wire to the current radios so adding a switch would not change anything for you.
mod made super easy! Thanks
any time mate cheers.
Algun otro método para poner la frecuencia 27?
Where did you get paper with instructions on it
I'm having trouble switching it back to HAM MODE
On my 655 the top and middle solder points are soldered together. It doesn't look like the 655 you are together but separated, can any one help on this
He's working on a v3 if you have the bare you have a v2 remove the bar.
So is they what makes it a 11 meter radio?.
Thank you sir!
your welcome mate. cheers.
Where did you get documentation?
What happens when you key a radio into a signal generator? Does it blow it up and cause it to have distortion?
Define "signal generator" - you have arbitrary / function / RF signal generators for example.
@@Mark19960 RF type. Would you use those other ones connected to the antenna of a radio?
To answer your question as to an RF generator "blowing up" or causing it to "have distortion" ... not usually no. RF generators have an RPP system. RPP being reverse power protection. If you transmitted on a radio into it.. They will go clunk.. and scream RPP at you on the screen. The input is disconnected. Unless you shove a lot of power into one (usually > 50 watts CW depending on frequency) it's going to survive quite happily after you take away the RF source and usually hit a key or button on the screen to have it start generating RF again. The people that design RF generators already thought of that.....
@@Mark19960 Well now we know that certain people are either stupid or liars.
@@Mark19960 Good to know. Thanks
Hello, i added the jumper with no luck. any suggestions?
Try going to band 4 some of the newer radios once the jumper wire is soldered in it’s ready to go and you don’t have to hold the buttons
Thanks I will give it a try.
Ok I’m new here, what exactly is he doing here
Mark, you need to record your video's with higher audio level, I have to crank up my volume all the way and still not enough.
Yeah I am unfortunately not a video guru but I will work on that. cheers.
It's perfect audio
Does this increase the output
Nope. just mods the radio.
It increases the ammount of channels or bands that you can use, but with the wider spread, you must keep an eye on your swr readings..... a variable swr tuner with "load" and "plate" adaptor/meter would be very usefull, but i believe some car aerils like whips can be tuned to do both the 11 and 10 meter bands by an alankey sliding the whip in and out abit for whichever you want to use...... 73's
Can't you just jump out the last two pads with a solder bridge? The 1st two are already connected.
Does FM mode work on 11 meter (cb) mode ?
With all the empty space inside, you would think Stryker would make these radios smaller
Common argument, but doesn't actually make sense in reality. that means new tooling... and more expense.
It’d be nice, if the made compact versions of those radios. Looks like a ton of wasted space inside.
That means retooling and more expense.
What happens to 10m after the mod?
Damn those things are cheap ass junk.
Could this be put on a switch?
sure. but why? what would be the point?
I'm going to guess. Today is 9/18.
Happy Birthday to you tomorrow?
lol no mate birthday has gone by already :)
@@Mark19960 It was the number order after your name. Thought I'd win a gold star 🤣
Yer.... 19960 (19-9-60) in the uk we would say 19th of 9th month September 1960, which would make him 63 years old, 64 in this year of 2023.... lol....
I done mine same way an didn't work
They could shorten that radio up quite a bit
True.
I will add it to the list of items to cover when I go over the differences.
There are some reasons why shortening the radio isn't the best idea either.
Just sayin.. board is tiny
@@Tony-st6yd That's true. It's predominately 0402 sized components. Pretty small stuff.
Doing that would be a re-tool / new chassis, doesn't make sense dollar wise as well as that extra aluminum chassis may help heat dissipation on that V reg side.
IMHO
Haha nice I had the same wonder so thanks for commenting! It would help it fit in my gas friendly tacoma and civics.
Thanks!!! Mark
No worries!
Can't believe how cheap they look inside
What makes you think it "looks cheap" ?
They are definitely better than any junk from ranger communication
All that wasted empty space.. I always felt like they should of made the radio a bit smaller.
and re-tool everything? invoke the package engineers again? why?
What they did actually makes sense from a manufacturing perspective.
@@Mark19960 Really? you care about the manufacturer or the consumer? IMO it's still a waste of space, bruh! 🤷♂
@@vicrod74 I see both sides. I work with both sides.
It might be a "waste of space" but the practical reasons remain.. and ultimately the decision to keep things as they are was the most sensible one.
What? Speak up!
hi i have a problem with stryker sr-955 hpc did as you show do you have an email so i can send you photo
Claus