HAWK AND TROWEL BASICS (FLAT JOINTS)
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Video number three in the hawk and trowel series.
Tools I use often:
DISCLAIMER: As an Amazon Associate I make a small commission from purchases through these links. Thank you for the support!!!!
Drywall knives:
2" amzn.to/2LwX8ty
4" amzn.to/32OHlw3
6" amzn.to/2LwP1x5
10" amzn.to/2QbLbOp (This one will rust if you leave it wet but feels nice to use)
10" amzn.to/3056fcU (This one is stainless. Stiffer, more expensive but won't rust)
Mud Pan with Grip!! (This is the BOMB! You will thank me!)
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Tin Snips GOOD QUALITY!! amzn.to/2LzlOBv
Drywall Tape Holder!! amzn.to/32Udhzd
Paint Mixer for mud!! amzn.to/303fX0q
Full size mixer!! amzn.to/2LYrMLe
Mixing Drill (just in case)!! amzn.to/2O2oQ2P
Hawk and Trowels
13 inch hawk:
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13 inch trowels:
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amzn.to/2ZWH39d
amzn.to/2ZSY5Fj
12 inch trowels:
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14 inch trowels:
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amzn.to/34CdmsJ
Auto tools
If you don't want to think, here is the whole kit (Columbia is great quality too!) amzn.to/2UwPUae
Mud tubes and applicator:
amzn.to/2Xt65XR (different but works great, I have this one too)
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Flushers
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Handle adjustable
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or fixed handle amzn.to/2DrNt2O
Corner roller (head only, you may need another handle)
amzn.to/2XpuJZo (cheaper)
amzn.to/2XpuNZ8 (better quality)
I have learned more from your videos than I have in my 20 years of doing drywall as a handyman. You are a fantastic teacher. Thank for your effort.
"It doesn't always matter how you put the mud on, it's how you take it off" - words of wisdom!
Your correct on making the flat joint wider than 10 inches because when it’s sanded it’s flat compared to hollowed out if it’s not filled enough the joint shows
Thanks Ben, new zealand here - am doing my garage and it's great to have these reminder tips before I start as I don't mud enough to remember the finer points each time I do a job.
I have been watching you for 30-40 days trying to learn all I can about drywall. I am redoing my kitchen and 3 walls and ceiling got new drywall. Today first taping day and after 8 long hours I can say you make this look so nice and easy ! I had mud every where and my joints don’t look great. You are amazing at this and thanks for the videos !
Everything you said was exactly how I do mine. I could feel it as you were explaining and showing. Great job.
This is such a great video for homeowners, you really are doing a great service for diy folks and those starting out.
I had a friend over 25-30 years ago stop by and wanted to borrow my sanding poles. In a few days he broght them back and told me he could not use them, he had his belt sander out??? Next thing he had me come down to finish it for him. My friend came out to help and sanded steady for 5 days while I started feathering . WOW !!!!! When I finally got it done he would have been further ahead to had me plaster it all with hard coat ! There were a lot of places the mud was over 1/4" past the board !
Boy, I wish you were around when I first started mudding. The more I did it, the more I thought I was taking shortcuts to make it easier, but I guess I was teaching myself the real way to mud a wall. Thanks for Your Videos.
Everyone who muds should see your video, this one is great. Very clear teaching method and all the little details. Great, I wish I had your advise before. Thanks, you are the BEST!
Thanks Vancouver. I've been finishing the drywall on my own jobs/projects for years, maxing at 75 boards, larger I'll hire a Pro. I can get pretty good results but you've taught so much that my work is much easier and much more time efficient since I've watched your lessons. Thanks very much and keep up that light comic relief. Your the top drywall/mudda teacher out here on the tube....by far the best instructor! Thank You
I'm a big fan of putting the mud on as smooth as possible. I usually use a wet sponge in between coats if necessary. Sanding is a messy pain lol
I coat thin and clean, when needed i'll scrape a ridge and knock crumbs from the surface before recoating. Then a final sand. It took time to get good at this method but i absolutely hate sanding..
Between primarily you and That Kilted Guy, as well as a few others, I've learned so much more about the differences in joint compound and their use and good technique for doing professional outcome quality wallboard taping and repair. Thank you. I never took for granted craftsman and the inherent value of seeing quality workmanship and ethic.
As an electrician, I appreciate your wider mud. Outside corners of walls often have electrical switch boxes, and a nice wide flat mud joint makes for a flatter wall and a smoother application for the wall plates. Spread it wide. Thanks.
I also always coat all the way around potlights and boxes that have a joint landing on them. I hate seeing the plates not sitting flat.
thank you thank you thank you
Very helpful especially about the fill and lift off in the multiple corner areas and sections. Thank you Ben !! The thin coats I realize now, help greatly when you are finishing back into an area that is fresh coated. When and where to use the knife tip, helps me a lot, because I naturally tend to use the hawk and trowel. Getting the mud thinned correctly as you demonstrate for us, is a critical step I needed help with.
Mate you just saved me so much sanding. Really regret not watching this 50 sheets ago
Thank you Ben for your time. You are awesome!
I've watched a lot of drywall how-tos and you have one of the best teaching styles!
Good instructions. Clear concise knowledgeable intelligent. Seems simple, simple requires mastery, master requires making mistakes and learning from the pain. Simply put mastering any craft is a grind, no short cuts. Dude you're videos are the best I have seen. My wife and I bought a pit, six years ago and still together. I have watched hundreds if not thousands of vids. Thank you.
Two invaluable things I learned from this guy are:
1. Proper feathering by bending on the knife a bit.
2. Don't be stingy with the mud.
While I'll never be a pro (nor do I want to be) I've become a decent do-it-yourselfer thanks to Vancouver Carpenter. Thanks!
Thing I've learned also is speed!! I was trying to do it too perfect and taking my time... mud ended up drying on me and it was a PITA to work with... So yeah... Feather it in, work fast and any nicks can be fixed later... don't sweat it!!
You are doing a great job. I'm just amazed at how you are only doing just a little sanding.
Great series of videos Ben. Appreciate the detail and very clear explanations. I'm a very part-timer when it comes to installing and finishing drywall. I start to get the hang of it again just as I'm finished on a given project. This is my first time using a hawk and trowel. After 2 days I can feel my wrists, forearm muscles I didn't know were there. Can't imagine trying to control a trowel greater than 12 inches.
Thanks brah.....I couldn't find a taper. So I watched your videos. And I did better than people I was hiring...keep them videos coming
I learned a lot from your vids as of yet. I have a drywall job I've been doing. Not my favorite type of work, its exhausting. I hung about 40 sheets, and mudding is exhausting for me right now. I picked up some techniques from you and a few others here on youtube. It's a bit of a learning process. How thin to make the mud, which type of mud to use, fastest ways to do corners etc. I'm getting thru it but really tired now and only have 1 day left to finish a lot.
did you finish?
@@MrPeach1 sure did. Turned out nicely
@@carcasscruncher9354 I am still in the nit picking stage eventually I am going to call it good
@@MrPeach1 setting up lights in a corner and casting the light on your project will help see flaws (lumps and such).
You are an intriguing person. I spent my early life as a painter who could load a brush and twist it just right in order to cut in a straight line. Explaining how to do drywall is is harder but I enjoy watching you explain drywall.
Love your videos one suggestion when using two blades I use a magnet on my hawk so the blade sticks to it underneath the hawk and frees my hand from holding it and my hawk 😀
I love your videos. Your tutorials have really save me a lot of work and frustration. I am nowhere close to accomplishing what you do in the videos but I am better off that I was. I can't tell you how much I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I wish you the best.
:)
probably one of the best how to videos on the web. nice work!
Very helpful I like how you explain So almost anyone can understand
I'm also trying to learn troweling and move off of knives. Dam, you make it look easy, not so much. Practice and more practice. Thanks for all you great info.
Ben, I think it is interesting that you do not hold the trowel too tight when you are applying mud. Sometimes, I hold my trowel a little too tight, so next time, I will lighten-up on it a bit. Great video as always!
I've learned so much from you! Thank you! Still have a ways to go but I'm getting there. Saving me from all the sanding I would usually do.
Great video, you explain things very well.
I’m a finisher myself out of North Carolina, and we finish basically the same way you do except we bed our flats with a 12” trowel and come back with a 14” trowel on the skim coat
Nice video ,used trowels for years but after you get used to broad knifes you won’t go back. Faster ,neater easier to control. I have them up to 24”
In Some cases I make my own 36” to 48” especially when skim coating for lacquer paints
Excellent as always! Thanks for making these videos. Very informative and helpful.
I’m trying to make the transition from knives to trowels and I have to say that I’m a bit resentful that you make it look so easy..... guess I’ll just have to practice more🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
It has a steep learning curve compared to knives but is worth it IMO.
Youre my mentor bro I love your videos you literally taught me how to tape
Thanks for sharing the little details, that is where it is all at. :-)
As always, great video. I've watched all your videos. I like how you show a wide shot of how you use the tools and the movement to use them correctly. I have a suggestion. It would be nice to have a second camera up close simultaneously so you can see the result of the passes.
Fully watching the ad and the video. I'm not entirely sure if that gets you more revenue but I do it anyway, your videos are totally worth it!
:)
Beveling sheetrock was a huge leap forward. Even I can smooth a flat joint.
You're a great teacher!
Just wanted to give you a shout out, Iv'e learned so much from watching your channel. I'm doing a remod now and learned where I messed up mudding and doing joints! thanks awesome to watch you apply your skill!
:)
Has anybody told you that you look like Jim Cuddy from Blue Rodeo. Thanks for all the great info!!
Best method on youtube!
Great video, thank you.
잘봤습니다 정말 설명 잘해주셨네요.(Great video. Thank you. )
I have been watching a bunch of your videos as I haven't touched spackle since 2014. I recently had a new roof put on my house. I have so many nail pops and cracks in my drywall seems. Do you ever run into this issue. I'm wondering what caused these nails to pop all of a sudden and I wonder was it caused by the guys throwing the shingle bundles like sacks of potatoes or the unweighting and then reweighting of the roof. I'm just curious. My walls were fine before the roof and it's not a coincidence. I'm glad I watched your videos they are very helpful and intuitive. The more I do it the better I'm getting at it.
Very helpful of you
Good videos love your information And skill ❤️from England
I coat wider, scrape between coats, minimal sanding. End result is a wall that looks like a sheet of glass.
Can't beat Canadian or Maine drywall guys
Nice, helpfull, simple.
Greetings grom Poland
Understanding the difference between trowel flex(.7, .4, and .3) and what they are good for?
These vids are super helpful thank you
Great video; I really enjoy your presentation - very thorough. I use knives, but now I am wondering if a trowel may be more comfortable, after I get used to it. Always up for learning better technique.
Thanks
Bro your a legend
very good teacher!!!
Good work sir
Man thank you so much for your videos. I am working as a drywaller in Ukraine and I working mostly with the knife but want to use to work with the trowel, for me it seems more professional and less pressure to the arm muscules. Tell me how to I bend those edges of the trowel so it wont leave any lines on the mud? Becouse when I buy a new trowel its flat.. Do I just bend it with my fingers? Thank you for answer and have a wonderful day!
Good job.
I'm a teacher; and you are a very good teacher! This is very helpful. With regard to the knife: is there a best or less than good size knife to use in these situations? Thnx.
Could you please explain where you put pressure on the trowel in the finishing pass?
Nice work a little overkill on the flat
Thanks man .You've helped me tons with my 500 Sq ft reno ..
So after taping flat ,butt .inside corners and applying outside corner beads ..
What is the sequence .Which do you coat first .How does it go .?
1 flat .2 butt 3 .outside corner .4 inside corner .
Thanks Ben
absolute beast!
Is there a difference between a trowel found in the cement section at Home Depot and one found in drywall? The one in drywall said curved, which I think you said was not good, because it would put tracks in the mud.
I’m afraid to ask at the store, I guess I don’t want to be seen as the novice that I am.
BTW - love your instructional videos!
It depends on the shape of the curve. He’s using a trowel that curves back towards the handle. For cement, the blade curves away from your hand
Great job ,can you come to Connecticut and fix this tapers cielings,I try to tell him he needs a trowel thier working with 6" and 10" putty knives.been painting for over 30 yrs and ever since the French guys died off drywall finishing sucks around here,not just anyone can do it!
Vancouver Drywaller :)
Dope vid bro no cap
It doesn't matter how you put the mud on, it's how you take it off**
Please advise on mixing without getting bubbles, or at least minimizing them in the mixing.
Add a little dish soap in the mud and mix. This will get rid of the bubbles and make the mud nice and creamy. Another benefit to doing this is it will sand easier. Been doing this for 30 years
I cant wait to practice
you were born to teach
Andrew Carr - he was born to marry me 😉😉😉
Is there an advantage in using a trowel over a knife? I find knives easier to handle. Maybe the stiffness of a trowel would fill in the valley better.
Knives have a shorter learning curve that's for sure. Trowels are a bit stiffer but break in nicely over time. The main difference is size. A 14 inch knife gets pretty unwieldy but a 14 inch trowel is still pretty manageable. Also power. Trowels are like rear wheel drive and knives are front wheel drive.
@@vancouvercarpenter I have been in the business for 30 years and couldn't have answered that question better bud.
With a trowel you can stroke the mud back and forth, and side to side, which sometimes is necessary. Just like a true plasterer would. The taping knife is not nearly as versatile.
Do you have a video on order of operations? Corners flat butt?
Painting a hotel right now the tapers suck!
Are you working the flats so smooth that you don't need texture?
Great video
We don't texture at all over here. That's why I have almost no videos on the subject.
I'm not sure if this simplifies or complicates things over the way it's done in the UK, over here the whole wall gets skimmed with gypsum and ends up flat, no sanding and when it's done it's a lot more robust surface, it will take a soaking without turning to putty and more impact resistant, takes a lot more skill though.
Plaster is hands down a better product. I am going to look into finding it and learn how to apply it. One of these days.
@@vancouvercarpenter Your hawk and trowel skills look up to the task.
Hey it's not raining shouldn't you be out skating?
I got out but ran out of light:( it's getting so hard to film skate stuff. Did you notice I didnt get my usual Saturday morning skate vid out? I got sowm clips today though and should have it put before the weekend is over.
Thanks for your videos! Question, whenever I have to make several passes right next to each other I always end up with terrible lap marks and it's quite uneven. How do I avoid this?
It takes a long time to learn when to leave it alone. Sometimes it's easier to sand the imperfection than to make another pass.
Can I put a coat on right after taping before the tape dries. If I do it carefully so that the tape doesn’t move. Will it be ok to put that build up coat on? Thanks
Do you vacuum/brush off the dust after you sand? I mean, dry powder might prevent adhesion of the next layer. Or it's not a problem?
The dust isn't a problem.
I have put in 35 hours of wall repair on a bathroom. Never want to patch repair again.
i said the same thing to my girlfriend. "t doesn't matter how you get that dress on, it just mattress how you take it off and how you look after you takes it off"
what trowel are you using specifically?
12x5 curry stainless steel
Is it enough to do the screws one time?
Do you use banjo, bazooka or flat boxes? Or are you strictly hand taper?
What if the edges are not recessed then use the webbed sticky tape?
what do you like to use to tape in 45 angles what material i mean? Thanks
You you guys have mainly smooth wall or is there a lot of texture up there?
Almost no texture.
I've only started watching your videos, so the answer may be out there already......question is, do you ever do the "level 5" finish?
When I had my rental properties I was just happy as long as it looked reasonably flat but now that I'm doing my own home I'm really going for a top-notch finish and I'm wondering whether to code the entire interior of my home with the mud or use one of the products that I see guys spraying on walls
It's only necessary on walls and ceilings that get extreme lighting conditions. A good level 4 finish followed by a good painter should look perfect under normal lighting anyway. People misunderstand what level 5 means. It's a thin coat over the entire wall just to give the bare paper the same appearance as the joints and screws. Its not to level out walls and joints.
How does a flex trowel differ from a regular
What kind of mud are you using for each step in this video? Much appreciated Ben!
I already know
Даже незная англиского было очень понятно . Спасибо ☺
You clearly take a real pride in your work but I can’t help wonder if it’s only marginally quicker to tape and joint instead of a full plaster. I suppose there’s not many people over there who can skim a wall with plaster tho
not really, also plaster isn't as widely available in Canada as joint compounds. True plasters here are rare.
In the uk it’s not that common to see tape and joint, my house is drywall but I always spec skim on my jobs, it’s a real skill tho, not something people can just do. I use a plasterer that can skim a wall with no more than a 2mm gap in flatness. Him and a labourer will generally skim a 5x8 meter room in a day, walls and ceiling at around £350 (that’s around 4 usd a square foot) not sure how that compares to tape and joint in cost as you guys have drywall box heads and are obviously super efficient in all your construction systems. also there’s a lot of bad plasterers here that’ll make the walls look pretty rough in the right light meaning that the painter has to use joint compound to flatten out the wall!
@@benchippy8039 To tape and joint a room over here, depending on area, is about $500. I have a lot of respect for plasterers and I would love to learn the trade. I've been taper now for years now, I've worked a bit with plaster but I think it comes down to cost here in Canada. Most tapers on do two coats, it isn't a perfect or even a flat finish but its cheaper. Contractors usually hire hacks that do the work here. I was taught by a taper with over 30 years of experience, the 3 coat method, you get a pretty smooth finish that way.
stargateproductions I’d love to learn to plaster too, my grandad was a plasterer, I’m a carpenter. So it sounds like there’s not a massive difference in price and the trowel skills and material knowledge ain’t a million miles apart in price. So you can’t even buy plaster over there? Here we use multi finish almost exclusively, it goes on brown and dries pink and it can go over either plasterboard (drywall) , sand and cement, hardwall , or browning which are the most common substrates. I’ve been watching the tape and joint vids because I’m considering using the system for ceilings and wardrobes in the 2 bungalows I’m currently renovating as a quicker option. Maybe you should watch some vids on plastering and offer it as an option, sounds like it’d be a usp for you and you’ve already got the tools and the base knowledge? I don’t even know anyone that can tape and joint, the only place I see it used is in house bashing (production building in America) there’s also a risk of paint failure over plaster, sometimes it gets troweled up to a polish and the paint won’t stick or it takes too long to dry and the paint will go yellow so it definitely has its drawbacks too
I'm dying to learn how to plaster. I have seen Diamaond veneer plaster at my drywall supply but haven't bought it yet. But it is very hard to find and finding someone who can apply it is even rarer.
do you have to be concerned with left over sanding dust with adhesion of next layer of mud
Only in the corners. I usually use a dry paintbrush to dust them out.