Couldn't have said it better! Refreshing. I have zero experience and tired of surfing through hours of "expert" opinions and babble. I just need to know what was purchased and how he did it.
Clever idea for inserting the panels. Foil tape would be useful to go over the central split to stop it opening up if you wanted to add a 1/2" plywood strip on each strut to provide that elusive air gap.
Let’s go boy and knock out some more DIY! Lol. Great video and detail. 👍👍. Note, by having that foam in so tight in the walls it will more than double the strengthen of the aluminum walls. Helps keep the aluminum from flexing and eventually leaking. Yep, I subscribed!
He said it correctly early on. You have to have an air gap for reflecting radiate heat. There is no point putting silver right against the sheet metal of the trailer.
3:36 - genius! I never thought of that! Very nice job, neat and tidy. 7 x $13 = $91 for material cost, which is very low. Thanks for this video! Clear audio and visuals, and thankfully, no music!!! Please do a video on the correct order of a build. What do you do first - cut holes/ Insulate/ electrical wiring? It would be sad to redo because the correct order was not followed.
Thanks for sharing your project with us. I sure like the way you got the insulation panels to fit into place. I'd of never thought of that. I have a 2013, 24-foot Interstate Loadrunner car transport trailer that I'm working on. I'm disabled and live on a set income so it's one day and one month at a time as I go. So far I've installed 300 watts of solar on the roof. I have room for a couple more panels should I decide to do it. At this point, I want to insulate my walls. The ceiling will come later after I get my electrical wiring done. I have two lights on the ceiling now but want to add a couple more. It's a work in progress. Anyway, thank you again for sharing with us. Thumbs up on your vids, you have a new subscriber to your channel
Thanks for your support. If you plan to live in yours full time or lots of the time I would suggest insulating over the entire surface. I would do what I did and then use 1/2" over all of it. Then do the paneling
Hey mate. Just discovered your channel. You come across as a clever guy who is making an effort to live within his means to be a good provider your family. Anyway, the last vid I seen of yours was the issues you were experiencing with condensation along the metal structural beams throughout your trailer Coming from an engineering background my thoughts are is how about driilling dia 4 mm holes every couple of feet along the metal square tubing and injecting spray insulation foam to fill the void.
That's a great idea. I hadent thought of. I would still have the thermal bridging fro the metal but the gaps would be filled. I currently plan to put 1/2" insulation on the roof and cover it with "Polywall" it's a white plastic for bathroom walls.
If space is not an issue why can't you apply foam board insulation over the interior, painted plywood? Then cove the foam boards with PVC sheets about 3 feet up, upholster the wall with fabric up to the ceiling. A house that has aluminum siding is over plywood sheathing, then insulation and vapor barrier then sheetrock or paneling/wall materials. Seems like the air space between the aluminum sheeting and the plywood interior wall would help venting the plywood and stop heat/cold transfer. Other reason is it is much quicker, less labor, especially for old guys. Hope this reaches you, a good video but it's 3 years old.
Got it, unfortunately space is always an issue in a build this small. All I would do if I build another is attach some 1/4" by 3" strips over the metal and then attach my paneling to the wood. This would reduce the thermal transfer through the screws. Thanks for watching
You should never compress insulation of any type, foam or fiberglass, because that reduces the R value. The insulating ability of materials comes from the air trapped inside so if you compress it you reduce the captured air.
Spray foam releases toxic fumes. Takes a long time to dissipate. Do it like he did. You can stuff Mineral rock, denim batting, sheep's wool batting in small spaces.
Your happy with how it went BUT does it work? Does it insulate and how well? I wouldn't be happy with it until i could evaluate the results. But perhsps I'm looking for different end results. If you really needed good insulation in that trailor i would have built up the ribs and then sprayed foam before replacing the wood paneling on the walls/ceiling. (and added bracing to the ribs and ceiling. As well as underneath with gussets and box metal tubes. Racking can destroy any insulation job and just shred it to dust.)
thoughts on using spray foam? harder to run wires? drawbacks? i thought the spray foam would really make the trailer feel rigid. i have small aluminum trailer i want to turn into a micro camper. i want to flip the axle and tow it down dirt roads or worse. i have seen the spray foams really tighten up metal buildings, I'm hoping if possible it will work the same for my trailer.
I didnt feel any because I never slept in it without insulation. I only had one real issue in the cold. The heads of the screws condense moisture. If i did this again I would glue strips of wood over the metal and screw my interior paneling to them. No direct metal connection.
no, between the aluminium skin and the plastic insulation it shouldent be a huge factor. You have to do some form of insulation. If you dont have the money for the spray, then this is the best I could do.
I have a question. Not sure if you'll know the answer. My father lived in a cargo trailer. He had it insulated and heated it with propane. He just passed away and we'r are redoing the trailer. When we pulled the old insulation off the stainless steel was so wet with condensation the installation was actually completely saturated with water. Is there a way to prevent condensation under the insulation? I thought about rhino lining the walls first then insulating but don't know id that will make a difference. Any advice would be so appreciated. Thank you
Sometimes these trailers leak through the outer seams. Especially as they get older. The only thing j can think of is to make sure the trailer is aired out often. If your paneling is wood it should allow moisture to get in and out. I used non absorbent insulation which would cause any moisture to run down to the bottom. I suppose some small holes could be drilled down at the base of the wall to let it breathe. Other option is spray in foam. This is the best as it seals the wall and doesn't let the moisture get through.
@@mikeyb9189 I didnt use the original siding. It was too thick for my needs and ugly. I don see a reason why it would be a problem if you wanted to. I used the original siding to make my bunks and shelves.
Don't they have some kind of flooring insulation of some kind besides carpeting? I think the bubble foil, would have been easier to cut and use and way more flexible.
Sorry to bother you sir, but may I ask (I’m about to do the same thng as you), when you attached the foamboard insulation to the plywood FLOOR underneath your trailer, did u have to use the liquid nails for foam or can you use the regular Heavy Duty Liquid Nails? And, how long did you leave your jack stand pressing up on the foamboard pieces? I’m going to be using the rigid Foamular (pink) insulation against the plywood. Thanks for any/all of your help!! I probably wouldnt be doing this if it wasnt for your videos!! : )
Sweet glad I could give you some ideas. I dont think the type of glue really matters. I left the jack in for only 10 minutes or so. Once the glue is firmly pressed between the layers it should keep itself up. I would suggest you use some sort of water sealer on the wood floor before covering it. I didnt and think it would have been a good idea. Mine is holding up fine for now. The pink foam is probably polyurethane which will be better than the white foam.
Wood Sealer on the bottom wood 1st? It’s the original flooring so, I would think there’s probably something there already. But won’t the foam act as a good barrier for water? Thanks again
Very cool. Did this prove to be effective? I’m actually cutting windows out of my cargo trailer and planning to live in it. Wisconsin summer. I also intend to use it during the winter, not convinced how well insulated I can get it with the limited space between exterior and stud. This might be my best option, unless I want to reframe it and lose inferior space.
It was effective. I did get some heat transfer with the screws and any exposed metal. The insulated space between the studs did way better. sorry about the late reply.
I cut the panels long and arched them. Then t look a smaller piece and stuffed it in between the upper channel and the end of the roof panel. The arch keeps it all in place because it wants to be flat like a spring. You can see the thin edge pieces and the arch at about the 5 minute mark. Then a strip of tape if you want. They will settle over time.
If you have a flat flexible material like a strip of this insulation, or a strip if thin wood. Put pressure on the ends and it will have to arch . More pressure more arch, but the spring wants to be flat so it pushes back. If you arch it and place it between 2 walls that force it to stay arched it will stick. The roof panels do that. The trailer is about 70" if I cut the insulation say 72" it will have to arch to fit. Those are not exact numbers. Does that clarify it?
I appreciate that this video was quick and to-the-point. No fluff; only relevant information.
Couldn't have said it better! Refreshing. I have zero experience and tired of surfing through hours of "expert" opinions and babble. I just need to know what was purchased and how he did it.
Sheila Spence exactly I totally agree this was a great demonstration and straight to the point!
Clever idea for inserting the panels. Foil tape would be useful to go over the central split to stop it opening up if you wanted to add a 1/2" plywood strip on each strut to provide that elusive air gap.
Wow. Thanks. Thanks for the video and tips. I just purchased my first trailer and will be starting on my upgrades.
glad to see your daughter helping!!! more kids need to experience things other than phones and playstations. lol
Pretty cool to hear how much better the audio got with the foam cutting down the interior echo.
I hadent noticed but your right. Cool
This was a good video. Clever trick with the split down the middle to get the insulation into the slots. Makes for a nice fit. Thank you.
It looks like you did a top-notch job with the insulation. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
_Nice to see that you put them in right, white side into the aluminum wall of the trailer. Great idea for a thin split in them to fold into place._
Thanks
Let’s go boy and knock out some more DIY! Lol. Great video and detail. 👍👍. Note, by having that foam in so tight in the walls it will more than double the strengthen of the aluminum walls. Helps keep the aluminum from flexing and eventually leaking.
Yep, I subscribed!
Should put the ref elective size OUT towards sheet metal to reflect back heat. Would keep inside trailer much cooler. 👍🏻👍🏻 good job though.
Reflect what, it's up against the wall ?
Both sides are foil reflective, plus it's an exterior wall so it doesn't matter.
He said it correctly early on. You have to have an air gap for reflecting radiate heat. There is no point putting silver right against the sheet metal of the trailer.
@@jh1859 horseshit. You are. Wrong
@@SamC379 That's right.
3:36 - genius! I never thought of that! Very nice job, neat and tidy. 7 x $13 = $91 for material cost, which is very low.
Thanks for this video! Clear audio and visuals, and thankfully, no music!!!
Please do a video on the correct order of a build. What do you do first - cut holes/ Insulate/ electrical wiring? It would be sad to redo because the correct order was not followed.
Your video helped me a lot, thank you.
Thanks for sharing your project with us. I sure like the way you got the insulation panels to fit into place. I'd of never thought of that. I have a 2013, 24-foot Interstate Loadrunner car transport trailer that I'm working on. I'm disabled and live on a set income so it's one day and one month at a time as I go. So far I've installed 300 watts of solar on the roof. I have room for a couple more panels should I decide to do it. At this point, I want to insulate my walls. The ceiling will come later after I get my electrical wiring done. I have two lights on the ceiling now but want to add a couple more. It's a work in progress. Anyway, thank you again for sharing with us. Thumbs up on your vids, you have a new subscriber to your channel
Thanks for your support. If you plan to live in yours full time or lots of the time I would suggest insulating over the entire surface. I would do what I did and then use 1/2" over all of it. Then do the paneling
Hey mate. Just discovered your channel. You come across as a clever guy who is making an effort to live within his means to be a good provider your family.
Anyway, the last vid I seen of yours was the issues you were experiencing with condensation along the metal structural beams throughout your trailer
Coming from an engineering background my thoughts are is how about driilling dia 4 mm holes every couple of feet along the metal square tubing and injecting spray insulation foam to fill the void.
That's a great idea. I hadent thought of. I would still have the thermal bridging fro the metal but the gaps would be filled. I currently plan to put 1/2" insulation on the roof and cover it with "Polywall" it's a white plastic for bathroom walls.
Thanks for the video. These videos you are putting out will help me so much.
If space is not an issue why can't you apply foam board insulation over the interior, painted plywood? Then cove the foam boards with PVC sheets about 3 feet up, upholster the wall with fabric up to the ceiling. A house that has aluminum siding is over plywood sheathing, then insulation and vapor barrier then sheetrock or paneling/wall materials. Seems like the air space between the aluminum sheeting and the plywood interior wall would help venting the plywood and stop heat/cold transfer.
Other reason is it is much quicker, less labor, especially for old guys. Hope this reaches you, a good video but it's 3 years old.
Got it, unfortunately space is always an issue in a build this small. All I would do if I build another is attach some 1/4" by 3" strips over the metal and then attach my paneling to the wood. This would reduce the thermal transfer through the screws. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video.. You really helped me out with your tips :)
You should never compress insulation of any type, foam or fiberglass, because that reduces the R value. The insulating ability of materials comes from the air trapped inside so if you compress it you reduce the captured air.
Thumbs up buddy!👍🏼☮️
Good video 👍
Im gonna do it just like this, but im gonna line the rails for the panels with spray foam to get every nook and cranny
That would be better. Spray foam is messy.
Spray foam releases toxic fumes. Takes a long time to dissipate. Do it like he did. You can stuff Mineral rock, denim batting, sheep's wool batting in small spaces.
I'm thinking to just drill holes up top and use blown in insulation. Don't see anyone doing it but think it would be effective and way easier
I've done blow in insulation in a house. The holes would have to be too large to get it to go in.
Rots-a-Ruck Chuck !
great work...
Brian's voice from family guy.
Your happy with how it went BUT does it work? Does it insulate and how well?
I wouldn't be happy with it until i could evaluate the results. But perhsps I'm looking for different end results.
If you really needed good insulation in that trailor i would have built up the ribs and then sprayed foam before replacing the wood paneling on the walls/ceiling. (and added bracing to the ribs and ceiling. As well as underneath with gussets and box metal tubes. Racking can destroy any insulation job and just shred it to dust.)
Its all about cost verses reward. It works well enough for my purposes. In a really cold climate spray foam would be much better
thoughts on using spray foam? harder to run wires? drawbacks? i thought the spray foam would really make the trailer feel rigid. i have small aluminum trailer i want to turn into a micro camper. i want to flip the axle and tow it down dirt roads or worse. i have seen the spray foams really tighten up metal buildings, I'm hoping if possible it will work the same for my trailer.
Absolutely, spray foam is the best way. But lots of work.
How much temp difference do you feel? I got a 6x10 trailer I need to do something with. I'm considering spray foam, foam, or R13 unfaced.
I didnt feel any because I never slept in it without insulation. I only had one real issue in the cold. The heads of the screws condense moisture. If i did this again I would glue strips of wood over the metal and screw my interior paneling to them. No direct metal connection.
"That Chapter" music... :)
What about condensation? Aluminum is known to sweat after a while causing molds.
I assume it's a possibility. I haven't had any issues with it yet. No mold smell or anything.
Great work and great video! I'm curious. Were you concerned about moisture in the walls?
no, between the aluminium skin and the plastic insulation it shouldent be a huge factor. You have to do some form of insulation. If you dont have the money for the spray, then this is the best I could do.
I have a question. Not sure if you'll know the answer. My father lived in a cargo trailer. He had it insulated and heated it with propane. He just passed away and we'r are redoing the trailer. When we pulled the old insulation off the stainless steel was so wet with condensation the installation was actually completely saturated with water. Is there a way to prevent condensation under the insulation? I thought about rhino lining the walls first then insulating but don't know id that will make a difference. Any advice would be so appreciated. Thank you
Sometimes these trailers leak through the outer seams. Especially as they get older. The only thing j can think of is to make sure the trailer is aired out often. If your paneling is wood it should allow moisture to get in and out. I used non absorbent insulation which would cause any moisture to run down to the bottom. I suppose some small holes could be drilled down at the base of the wall to let it breathe. Other option is spray in foam. This is the best as it seals the wall and doesn't let the moisture get through.
Do the panels like up pretty easy when putting back the wood?
Not sure what you are asking?
@@DirtyShopDIY after you put in insulation in, is the wood that was taken off easy to mount back up?
@@mikeyb9189 I didnt use the original siding. It was too thick for my needs and ugly. I don see a reason why it would be a problem if you wanted to. I used the original siding to make my bunks and shelves.
Don't they have some kind of flooring insulation of some kind besides carpeting? I think the bubble foil, would have been easier to cut and use and way more flexible.
The do make a good bubble insulation, but it's not nearly as good as foam. It's great for how thick it is but foam is better in my experience.
The bubble foil is great! I think it is R6 and can be layered to add to the R. If I ever do a trailer, it will be bubbled!
I 🖒your video, but I wish you had shown the process you used for insulating the nose and ceiling of your trailer.
The nose and ceiling were easy. Just cut and fit. The only trick is you have to measure the length in an arc.
Your awesome liked
Thanks, I really appreciate your support. Thanks for watching.
Sorry to bother you sir, but may I ask (I’m about to do the same thng as you), when you attached the foamboard insulation to the plywood FLOOR underneath your trailer, did u have to use the liquid nails for foam or can you use the regular Heavy Duty Liquid Nails? And, how long did you leave your jack stand pressing up on the foamboard pieces? I’m going to be using the rigid Foamular (pink) insulation against the plywood. Thanks for any/all of your help!! I probably wouldnt be doing this if it wasnt for your videos!! : )
Sweet glad I could give you some ideas. I dont think the type of glue really matters. I left the jack in for only 10 minutes or so. Once the glue is firmly pressed between the layers it should keep itself up. I would suggest you use some sort of water sealer on the wood floor before covering it. I didnt and think it would have been a good idea. Mine is holding up fine for now. The pink foam is probably polyurethane which will be better than the white foam.
Wood Sealer on the bottom wood 1st? It’s the original flooring so, I would think there’s probably something there already. But won’t the foam act as a good barrier for water? Thanks again
Better safe than sorry.
Very cool. Did this prove to be effective? I’m actually cutting windows out of my cargo trailer and planning to live in it. Wisconsin summer. I also intend to use it during the winter, not convinced how well insulated I can get it with the limited space between exterior and stud. This might be my best option, unless I want to reframe it and lose inferior space.
It did work. I talk about issues in the recap video. But basically I had condensation issues on the exposed metal areas. But it stayed warm.
It was effective. I did get some heat transfer with the screws and any exposed metal. The insulated space between the studs did way better. sorry about the late reply.
does Michael Myers know you stole his knife?
How did you get the insulation to stay up on the ceiling?
I cut the panels long and arched them. Then t look a smaller piece and stuffed it in between the upper channel and the end of the roof panel. The arch keeps it all in place because it wants to be flat like a spring. You can see the thin edge pieces and the arch at about the 5 minute mark. Then a strip of tape if you want. They will settle over time.
@@DirtyShopDIY Hmmm. I'm trying to imagine that. I'm not getting it.
If you have a flat flexible material like a strip of this insulation, or a strip if thin wood. Put pressure on the ends and it will have to arch . More pressure more arch, but the spring wants to be flat so it pushes back. If you arch it and place it between 2 walls that force it to stay arched it will stick. The roof panels do that. The trailer is about 70" if I cut the insulation say 72" it will have to arch to fit. Those are not exact numbers. Does that clarify it?
I'm getting ready to do mine. Just wondering did you insulate the drop gate? I can't decide if it would be worth it.
I didnt, I bought it with the flooring on. I didnt want to take it apart for insulation. I would if possible
So 8 panels for what size trailer do you have??
6'x12' thanks for watching
Is it even worth doing insulation if you don't have a heater or A/C?
Yes, heats up slower in summer and holds in body heat better in the winter. I plan to make a heater. A/C is possibly on the list too.
OMG! Cameron if you DO NOT insulate a trailer like that, you are going to BAKE in the summer and FREEZE in the winter!
What size is this trailer, please? 6x12?
yes 6x12
What size trailer do you have?
6'x12'
What size cargo trailer is that?
6'x12', extra roof height.
Can't hear you. Turn volume up!
Considering he is not using a microphone he is very clear and loud !
Thanks, this was pretty early in my RUclips life. I was still quite green.
Did you use the same technique for the top halves as you did with the bottom. Cutting the center and folding it between the studs.
I used it on the side walls top and bottom. The roof and front were just press in.