I like your compassion intro and I like your blessings why not it’s cool it yeah a lot of times you can get really stressed out when things are happening to our car and cost money. We don’t wanna spend money on and takes time out of her life continuing to do activities where we need to go to work and cars can just be very frustrating for us that don’t know a lot about them so I appreciate you.
Battery posts corrode because of leaks around the post where the case is supposed to seal on the post. I always use some silicone around the post where it connects to the case and the problem is solved. Good to do this when its brand new.
It’s not always a sure sign of old age or health since it’s a leak caused by a defect or general use. Remember everything on a car moves a lot when you drive. This usually causes issues due to friction or stress breakage. Anyhow. General rule of thumb, in climates with ‘extreme’ weather conditions (high hot temps and low cold temps) your battery will last for 3 years. Most of the time you can go much longer, especially if you don’t let it die. Once an automotive lead acid battery dies and needs to be jumped, its capacity has dropped by roughly 50%. It should be replaced, or kept a very sharp eye on. Health can only be determined by using a load tester (dedicated tool) or testing with an amp/multi meter. Bottom line, if you have corrosion, your battery is leaking but could otherwise be healthy and/or new.
@@cordcd7 So it’s life dropping by roughly 50%, does that only or mainly apply if your jumping a car directly from another vehicle w/ bigger battery cranking amp? Or does size not really matter? Would using a jumper box instead solve this issue?
@@selwyn13 The capacity itself drops roughly in half when the battery is left to die - this being the amount of time the battery can provide power. So if it's a 100 amp hour battery (can provide 100 amps for 1 hour) and it dies, it is now only about 50 amp hour or more accurately, 100 amps for half an hour; since the output typically doesn't degrade but rather the time it can provide that output does. Essentially if your battery can sit for 5 days and then start the engine; but is left to die (maybe it sat for 10 -14 days for example) it now will only hold its charge for 2.5 days. I hope this makes sense. I'm going on advice given by a panel of mechanics who have a call in radio show that I used to listen to when commuting for work. The issue of dead batteries and having to get a jump came up nearly every week, so they covered it a lot.
The reason for the corrosion is the electrical field that is created around the battery and that anodes and cathodes travel in the field around the battery caused that corrosion to build up, if you just glue a penny close to the negative side it will get corroded instead of the terminals doing that will cut the field and just replace the penny instead of the terminals, I been an Auto tech since 1982 and never had a battery terminals that got corroded on me it was an experiment I tried back then and it still works
also if the corrosion keeps returning there could be a hairline split in the terminal causing the leak just some food for thought, it may be hard to tell cause just the smallest crack could be overlooked
yeah, i have corrosiion that keeps returning. i also now have a hole in my positive battery terminal. it had like charcoaly stuff in it. i wonder if that hole connects down inside the battery and if that is where the fumes are comming from that keep causing the corrosion. i might fill it with solder and then put a think layer of epoxy on the base of the terminal/ plastic. then with the terminal and clamp cleaned and reconnected i might give it a light spray with zinc paint to prevent further corrosion. i tried petroleum jelly but it only worked for a few weeks. i know when its bad because my car struggles to start.
why not put a little bit of epoxy around the base of the terminal? in my case it wont raise the terminal clamp enough to matter, i can still get it just as tight.
after thoroughly cleaning the terminals every 2 weeks, even painting the surfaces with primer. i gave up. i found some marine battery terminal connections and replaced my stock cars connection with those. no more corrosion issues, perfect starting every time. (these new terminal connectors are lead, so nothing to corrode). the battery is still presumably leaking fumes, so may not last forever, but its already 5-6 years old, so thats okay. but the way its starting, i fully expect it to last at least another year.
Q, I have 8 volt- neg. ground system- A shop took out my old batter 3x9 saying it needed replace- put a so-called new one in. Trouble is 1st I notice the white corrosion- so I cleaned, then the other day it was dead- so I put it on the charger- 6v-30 amp. What I noticed was the 2 cable ends connected to the post- were quite hot ( not to hot to touch- but hot enough) I never noticed that when charging my old 6 volt.. what causes that- I remember years ago- actually decades ago- an old shop said something about "the polarity needed to be changed... I did check other wires- like going to headlight switch- but no other wires were hot.. It was just hot at the terminals- even the cables further from the post were cooler.. Should I just be on the safe side and just buy another new battery or is this sounding normal- the car is a 1948 Pontiac flathead 8
Hi Rick, thanks for all ur information. My posts connections r so corroded that I can't even unscrew the clamps off the posts. Any advice as to how I can loosen the screws ? N oh yeah, u also said that if battery needs to b jumped , it only has 50% capability left...I'm I correct ? Once again, thanks for ur info..
You should be disconnecting both terminals to 1st wire brush and remove the heavy corrosion. After that, hose the clamps and posts off. No need to worry either way you do it. Just be sure to get ALL signs of corrosion off or it will most definitely come back.
Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. I was topping up my window washer tank thingee and saw this white sugary substance around my battery. I'm going to blast it off with a water & hopefully that will keep it away until I can afford an new battery
Hello! We also have a video on how to Clean and Maintain Battery Corrosion! Check it out here..merciej.com/news/shop-news/1303-2022-08-08-17-35-15how-to-clean-car-battery-corrosion
This is not correct. The felt pads are supposed to be coated in the grease, (sold in same packet) to help counter the corrosion. Putting grease directly on the posts or terminals does NOT deter the problem.
Sir, you are the first person that I have listened to, who knows what he is talking about. Well done.
We greatly appreciate it! Let us know what other topics or questions we can answer for you!
First diy video that explains the why, how and how to. EXCELLENT job!!
Thank you for enlightening me on what causes this problem and a solution to keep things under control. Greetings from Sri Lanka!
You are welcome! That is so cool.
Gave me the exact answer I was looking for straight and to the point. Thanx
Being straight to the point is the best. Hate watching videos and there is so much nonsense I usually just find another video. This one was great!
I like your compassion intro and I like your blessings why not it’s cool it yeah a lot of times you can get really stressed out when things are happening to our car and cost money. We don’t wanna spend money on and takes time out of her life continuing to do activities where we need to go to work and cars can just be very frustrating for us that don’t know a lot about them so I appreciate you.
Very good advice. He knows what he's talking about.
Very well explained. Thank you for this!
You're very welcome!
Thank you for sharing . I have to clean my posts at this very moment. 👍 God bless you. 🙏
Battery posts corrode because of leaks around the post where the case is supposed to seal on the post. I always use some silicone around the post where it connects to the case and the problem is solved. Good to do this when its brand new.
Silicon grease or actual silicone?
The question I have is what does the corrosion say about the battery's health or age? Is it a sign of replacing?
This is why I watch the video hoping to find that out.
It’s not always a sure sign of old age or health since it’s a leak caused by a defect or general use. Remember everything on a car moves a lot when you drive. This usually causes issues due to friction or stress breakage.
Anyhow. General rule of thumb, in climates with ‘extreme’ weather conditions (high hot temps and low cold temps) your battery will last for 3 years. Most of the time you can go much longer, especially if you don’t let it die. Once an automotive lead acid battery dies and needs to be jumped, its capacity has dropped by roughly 50%. It should be replaced, or kept a very sharp eye on.
Health can only be determined by using a load tester (dedicated tool) or testing with an amp/multi meter.
Bottom line, if you have corrosion, your battery is leaking but could otherwise be healthy and/or new.
@@cordcd7 So it’s life dropping by roughly 50%, does that only or mainly apply if your jumping a car directly from another vehicle w/ bigger battery cranking amp? Or does size not really matter? Would using a jumper box instead solve this issue?
@@selwyn13 The capacity itself drops roughly in half when the battery is left to die - this being the amount of time the battery can provide power. So if it's a 100 amp hour battery (can provide 100 amps for 1 hour) and it dies, it is now only about 50 amp hour or more accurately, 100 amps for half an hour; since the output typically doesn't degrade but rather the time it can provide that output does.
Essentially if your battery can sit for 5 days and then start the engine; but is left to die (maybe it sat for 10 -14 days for example) it now will only hold its charge for 2.5 days.
I hope this makes sense. I'm going on advice given by a panel of mechanics who have a call in radio show that I used to listen to when commuting for work. The issue of dead batteries and having to get a jump came up nearly every week, so they covered it a lot.
@@takeheartovercomer9138 same
The reason for the corrosion is the electrical field that is created around the battery and that anodes and cathodes travel in the field around the battery caused that corrosion to build up, if you just glue a penny close to the negative side it will get corroded instead of the terminals doing that will cut the field and just replace the penny instead of the terminals, I been an Auto tech since 1982 and never had a battery terminals that got corroded on me it was an experiment I tried back then and it still works
Thanks, I will give the penny a try.
@@Foodie_888 Try it and let me know
Where do you glue it?
@@bradleypease2492 glue it close to the negative post on the battery but not touching the post
Cool trick. Thank you.
I use baking soda and water. The baking soda neutralizes the acid.
😊
Thanks, good tips. I appreciate your sharing. God bless you!
Thank you! You too!
also if the corrosion keeps returning there could be a hairline split in the terminal causing the leak just some food for thought, it may be hard to tell cause just the smallest crack could be overlooked
yeah, i have corrosiion that keeps returning. i also now have a hole in my positive battery terminal. it had like charcoaly stuff in it. i wonder if that hole connects down inside the battery and if that is where the fumes are comming from that keep causing the corrosion.
i might fill it with solder and then put a think layer of epoxy on the base of the terminal/ plastic. then with the terminal and clamp cleaned and reconnected i might give it a light spray with zinc paint to prevent further corrosion. i tried petroleum jelly but it only worked for a few weeks.
i know when its bad because my car struggles to start.
why not put a little bit of epoxy around the base of the terminal? in my case it wont raise the terminal clamp enough to matter, i can still get it just as tight.
after thoroughly cleaning the terminals every 2 weeks, even painting the surfaces with primer. i gave up. i found some marine battery terminal connections and replaced my stock cars connection with those. no more corrosion issues, perfect starting every time. (these new terminal connectors are lead, so nothing to corrode). the battery is still presumably leaking fumes, so may not last forever, but its already 5-6 years old, so thats okay. but the way its starting, i fully expect it to last at least another year.
Thanks about being honest about those felt pads and just using some grease at the bottom instead.
You bet!
Very useful video….on another note. You look like the dad from 7th heaven on your thumbnail.
blessing to you also now I know whey thanks
Glad to help
I think it's through the whole wire to my alternator. Been replacing alternator and battery less than yearly. Do u think that could be the problem.
Didn't answer my question but definitely subscribed for your channel Thanks for the knowledge 👍 😀
Thanks for the video. Good info!
Glad it was helpful!
Q, I have 8 volt- neg. ground system- A shop took out my old batter 3x9 saying it needed replace- put a so-called new one in. Trouble is 1st I notice the white corrosion- so I cleaned, then the other day it was dead- so I put it on the charger- 6v-30 amp. What I noticed was the 2 cable ends connected to the post- were quite hot ( not to hot to touch- but hot enough) I never noticed that when charging my old 6 volt.. what causes that- I remember years ago- actually decades ago- an old shop said something about "the polarity needed to be changed... I did check other wires- like going to headlight switch- but no other wires were hot.. It was just hot at the terminals- even the cables further from the post were cooler.. Should I just be on the safe side and just buy another new battery or is this sounding normal- the car is a 1948 Pontiac flathead 8
Excellent information!! Thanks.
Does cruise control cause the corroded battery terminals
No.
Thank you for the post.
You're welcome
Thank you so much immediately subscribed
Why would there be a thin plastic tab made into a battery end terminal from the factory? Is it to regulate the drain or what
But y its appearing Only on positive terminal and not on both the terminals equally?
Science
over charging
@@javedmalik4821 dont u think my question is still unanswered?
Thanks, my truck battery gets corrosion so the dealer said that the battery is bad. So the new one is 2 weeks old same corrosion. 👍
Was it the alternator that was bad?
Hi Rick, thanks for all ur information. My posts connections r so corroded that I can't even unscrew the clamps off the posts. Any advice as to how I can loosen the screws ? N oh yeah, u also said that if battery needs to b jumped , it only has 50% capability left...I'm I correct ? Once again, thanks for ur info..
Lots of water with a Garden Sprayer Hose will get the corrosion off!
Hot water... Add baking soda to neutralize
Well said thanks and to the POINT
Always!
I was told by a mechanic I needed a cable rebuild……. Although besides the corrosion, the cables look fine?
Are they cracked, are they making a good solid connection...if not the is metal stretched and does not tighten down
If you hose it down do you need to worry about the positive and negative terminals getting “connected” by the water?
You should be disconnecting both terminals to 1st wire brush and remove the heavy corrosion. After that, hose the clamps and posts off. No need to worry either way you do it. Just be sure to get ALL signs of corrosion off or it will most definitely come back.
Do you put the dialectric grease around the post and then around the clamp?
NO!
Yes
Would diaelectric grease keep corrosion at bay?
It's helpful.
Great instruction!
Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom. I was topping up my window washer tank thingee and saw this white sugary substance around my battery. I'm going to blast it off with a water & hopefully that will keep it away until I can afford an new battery
Easiest way is spray some Coke on it the acid will eat it.
Thanks Rick!!!
I highly recommend Ncp2 battery corrosion preventative spray from Walmart and distilled water
Thank you!
i tried taking the negative and positive out , my positive is kinda stuck tho what should i do?
Great video thanks so much
Thanks 🙏
You’re welcome 😊
i have corrosion on my negative terminal and then the ground completely broke off. what caused it to break? do you know?
He said the corrosion eats away the cable and terminal so that could be why
@@carljohnson4996 makes sense!
thank you veeeery muuuch
You're welcome!
Excellent!
Vaseline= legit 😎
Put it around bas of nodes it will act like puddy keeping fumes in?
thank you
You're welcome
Thanks.
. . . ....."and maintain it" - thats why i watched yiur video to see how to maintain the battery and to rid the corrosion frim the battery??😮
Hello! We also have a video on how to Clean and Maintain Battery Corrosion! Check it out here..merciej.com/news/shop-news/1303-2022-08-08-17-35-15how-to-clean-car-battery-corrosion
Which kind of vaseline should i use? Does it really matter?
Just regular run of the mill Vaseline has like a blue top and clear plastic on it with a blue sticker on it that says vaseline in white letters
Well, I got some KY jelly watermelon, I’ll try that cause I ain’t got Vaseline.
@@carljohnson4996 👍🏻😂
@@whocares6965 anal-ease is the best option
I use throttle body cleaner to clean real good🙌
God Bless you sir!
This is not correct. The felt pads are supposed to be coated in the grease, (sold in same packet) to help counter the corrosion. Putting grease directly on the posts or terminals does NOT deter the problem.
👍👍
Vapors attaching themselves to multiple wires being ganged at the terminal.
Pour soda on the corrosion. Eats it right up 😅
That sounds like a sticky situation! We recommend using soap and water. Tons of water!
I heard a secret that cola cola works 😂
vaseline did the job..thank you..
You're welcome
Thank you
Thanks