I have been a builder of stuff all my life which includes 2 airplanes, a gyrocopter, a 17.5 foot cedar strip canoe, and 3 earthbag houses. Now I am 70, have rheumatoid arthritis and I am afraid my industrious days are over. I am not complaining. If I drop dead in the next 5 minutes I have had far more good times than I deserve. I'm lucky enough to live in the Andes mountains in Ecuador and have a local kid (28 years old, everything is relative) that has worked for me for 8 years. He has been an eager and capable student, and that is where my satisfaction comes from now. I love watching your videos because I vicariously experience through you guys the good old days.
We hadn't spoken before of Earthbag building- I find that method very interesting and it would be my go-to if I was in a position to build a house. We would like to send you a small thing, but haven't been able to reach you by message on Patreon. Would you mind sending us a message there with your postal address?
I grew up sailing a Mirror. A plywood constructed boat. Good fun. Much safer than the Tassie Tiger that always capsized in the Fitzroy River. Wind gusts and crocodiles. Dad and Mum used to win races in the mirror.
Once you get your drawings done, you can transfer all the lines through the paper onto the ply using a pounce wheel and then draw lines on the ply with a pencil or pen.
A buddy of mine grew up in a tidal region and also likes centerboards. His mode of operation is "set the centerboard to the expected depth and just hit it". He wrote depth markings on a line with a linkage so you just dial in your draft. In sandy or muddy conditions you don't even feel it when the board starts dragging if your not super conscious, you just see the draft marking wobble. Also great for docking, wind / current from the side have nothing on you if your board drags through the ground. Nowadays he sails a large aluminum boat but back in the day he sailed a so called "Jollenkreuzer", a design you might find interesting. Very fast and capable boats and also quite save if your reacting fast enough and don't tie down the mainsheet. They are build from wood or steel, the latter version reportedly only needs fixing the dings from hitting spur dikes in the winter.
I lived in Perth and spent several trips exploring Southern W’ait A’while. A very pleasant part of the world and one I would not hesitate to explore further. No shortage of world class Timbers or coastline down there.
I have just recently completed a strip canoe and want to build a boat next. I have watched dozens of how to videos on both, and I have no doubt this will be the most thorough and easy to follow build of a wooden boat. You have a way of explaining things that is easy to understand. Thanks Troy & Pascale :-)
Also, I'm sure that you are looking feverishly for the perfect Christmas gift for me but a gift is not necessary. Just have a Merry Christmas and a safe and prosperous new year.
Already looking forward to the first sail. A bit of lead in the centerboard does seem useless. However, on a small sailboat you balance the forces with bodyweight. I think the lead is just meant to make the centerboard go down.
Greetings from a trailer sailor in the Pacific Northwest. Sorry for being a bit long-winded. You may have already been aware of all this but some things are much easier to deal with before the fact than after and thought you would prefer learning from other people's mistakes. Having a tilt up center board and rudder for that matter are great benefits for underwater obstacles as well as beaching the boat. They do have their issues though. In the unfortunate event of a blow down at first the boat initially will lie on its side tilted beyond 90 degrees. Gravity quickly pulls an unsecured weighted centerboard pivoting to the fully stowed position. This invertes the righting force of the keel making the boat top heavy then capsized and nearly impossible to right. I highly recommend having your center board made with either a shear pin 10cm or so away from the pivot pin or using a Clamcleat CL257 Auto Release Cleat - MODEL CL257/R. They are made for a kickup rudder but could be used on the leading edge of your center board as well. A warning if you use the auto release cleat with a kickup rudder. The line length changes slightly as you steer in most applications causing it to release prematurely. You need to leave a little slop in the line to allow for this. Many trailer sailors here in the States have a two-piece “ kick up rudder” affair with an over center bungee cord setup that holds it down during normal sailing. If you hit something it pivots up around a hinge on the back side of the rudder stretching the bungee cord. The rudder ends up pointed straight back 10-20cm into the water surface so that you can still steer while beaching the boat. Sounds more complicated than it is. On a completely different note, I highly recommend spending a little extra on a drop axle trailer. This will keep your car out of the water and make it much easier to put the boat on and off the trailer. I bring this up now because….. Generally boat ramps slope at 1 to 8 ratio. Using a 10cm drop axle and setting up the trailer bunks to match the drop axle allowing the boat to sit 10cm lower into the trailer, the boat then sits 20cm lower than on a standard trailer. This reduces the distance you have to back your trailer into the water by 1.6 meters making it dramatically easier to launch and recover your boat as well as load and unload your gear into the boat on the trailer. Knowing you like to repurpose things, many of the front wheel drive vans and such have drop rear axles that can be had at an auto salvage yard for a bargain price. They even have brakes in case you want to be able to stop your Subie in a hurry. Lastly, fitting your trailer to the boat will be much easier to do just after you skin the hull. Then you're much more likely to be capable of lifting and moving the boat around by yourself. Be sure to incorporate a center runner to support the keel on the trailer. Preferably with a rubber roller on the end in case someone forgets to raise the keel before loading the boat on the trailer. Without the runner your keel can catch on the rear of the trailer when launching when the boat is just barely floating like often happens if the tide is out because the typical ramp is not nearly as steep at the bottom. Thanks for all the sailing videos. Absolutely nothing else even remotely like it on the web. Please consider making a playlist for the boat build or adding it to the free range living playlist as it does not show up on free range living. Thanks : TimSharkey_LensN2Shutter
Thank you Tim, for all of those great points you raise. I see the Welsford group talk about putting a strop on the centre board to pull it back out in a blow down, but I think your system to be better. I was considering a 'downhaul' and cleat, so that is timely. The build videos will have their own playlist in our post Christmas digital tidy up!
It’s always good to watch you build and explain the process along the way. You are a man of many wonderful traits of knowledge. I also like your shed. Thanks for bringing us along on your build. A cool looking bug too :)
I've never watched someone build a boat so this is really interesting. Would love to have a large workshop like that as I could get up to lots of trouble!
I must say I’m very pleased about you going into boating again via this build. I do miss your sailing episodes like …very much. Anyways, life is a roller coaster and I’m glad you are happy in your new life. A little bit windy here in the harbour tonight and some few days until the winter solstice = very dark and short days. Cheers m8’s and have a splendid and have a splendid celebration 🎅🏼
Lovely to hear from you again Miq. Yes, we were never going to permanently leave the sea, but most long term sailors have a bit of time aground to pursue other matters. We do look forward to a day of being a family afloat, but we need a sail training vessel first 😉
back when I was building boats ...In the US ..we would have called that a swing keel ...an excellent choice for cruising along shallow shores and exploring tidal streams ..something I used to like to do myself ..the build is looking great so far I am keen to see how it all goes down ....!
Yes I adopted the name the designer has used, but we also would call it a swing keel too. She will draw about 220mm or just over 8" with keel up so very well suited to shallow exploration.
Hi Troy, I’m excited about this boat build I’ve never build a boat. I have absolutely love them but it’s going to be wonderful to watch all the challenges and excitement that you have building this boat. Keep up the good work. Always love your Videos , Cliff from Logan City Queensland Australia 🇦🇺🧑🏾🦽
Mdf takes a cut from a jigsaw really nicely and is a great material for pattern making. Pine in your CB? Pine is very rot prone, I mean very. The CB is low and it has holes in it. All this can be dealt with using CPES and epoxy, but pine is also very weak. Get some Aussie ash!
I also like MDF for all things router Jig. The CB will be well sheathed in epoxy and the boat garaged between sails, so hopefully the pine doesn't see water. There is a large boat, built of pallet wood, sailing Queensland and doing quite well after many years, also epoxy sheathed.
ive always liked john wellsford designes and will end up building one myself. i am so glad i can watch your build and learn and then start mine. with some more smarts. . thank you and look forward to the build and splash.
Off to a good start I see. I find that lofting the frames is the tedious part but once you have those patterns the build becomes much more enjoyable. I salvaged most of the lead for my 27 footers keel from automotive wheel weights. That's one of the ways I lowered the cost of the build. The swing keel for the 21 foot Hartley, that I will get back to work on eventually is cut from a sheet of 7/16 steel. The plans for this boat came from New Plymouth, New Zealand. I worked in a manufacturing company and was able to buy that and the stainless steel that I made most of my fittings from at company cost so there are often ways for us all to cut cost without sacrificing quality. That cypress hardwood for the leading edge of your keel should hold up quite well. Too bad you aren't building the Hartley 21. I could follow along as you build and share ideas on some of the aspects of the project. I am surprised, now that I think of it, that you didn't pick something with at least a cuddy cabin on it for extra storage space and maybe installation of a porta potty.
There is an additional plan set for a cabin on Pathfinder, and that is how I built mine. It sleeps two in cozy accommodations, but it is a lot more work than I expected. Worth it in wet NZ, maybe not so much in warmer places. These boats have a lot of dry storage built in, the way they are put together - which is quite different from a Hartley fwiw. Helped my Dad build a TS16 back in the day, so moderately familiar with that design too.
Wheel weights are a great idea, though it must be worth a few cartons to the tyre blokes. I find it quite relaxing lofting the plans, but I'll be happy to go on to the next step. One thing, the leading edge of the CB isn't Cyprus, it's eucalyptus. Very hard stuff.
@FreeRangeLiving Absolutely no problem sailing, and it gives you that nice sheltered spot to sit either side of the hatch. A little bit more of a PITA anchoring compared with the open version, as you actually have to go forward. Not a huge issue, unless you slip on the tiny deck, and bark your shin on the gunnel while desperately trying to not go overboard. Twice. In one day - ever seen a grown man cry 😂. A major PITA stepping/unstepping the mast though- a borderline unsafe balancing act heaving the mast in and out on a slippery deck and a wobbly trailer, while trying to not drop the whole plot onto the car parked beside you. I would 100% recommend a tabernacle on deck and a compression post if you go the cabin route. I think JW's description for the cabin was a plywood pup tent, and that's pretty accurate. Totally worth it here (South Island NZ), given our humorous weather gods. Somewhere a bit warmer, a decent boom tent or similar might be a good/better option as you'd keep all the open boat space.
Surprised you used polyurethane glue, I would have thought it may have needed epoxy. Interested in this design will be great to watch your progress, cheers
Poor Huntsman Spider. Hey Troy, was that just one Huntsman or two? Usually the Huntsman's are in pairs and when they are found by a Hornet, they are often both paralyzed and taken back to the nest and kept as future food for the kids. I have sat on my back steps watching this happen. Saw a Hornet just like that one at your place, dragging a rather large Huntsman across the yard and into the garden. A little while later, the Hornet was back dragging yet another rather large Huntsman across the yard to the nest. And people freak out over Huntsman spiders. This is why I have a fear of Hornets. Thank goodness they are only small, even if they sting like having a roofing nail driven into you. Great video. Can't wait to see this build come to completion.
@@FreeRangeLiving They must be good tucker for baby hornets. The poor creatures don't seem to stand a chance. Well, the heat is coming to our neck of the woods. I'm in the town east of you 150+ ks, and enjoy much the same climate. I hope you guys are enjoying your time in this region.
I had a couple of errors in my build one was the deck camber on frame 2 the drawing measurments didn't work out and I made it to suit , another was frame 6 the top of I moved out 4mm to make it fair a few other measurements didn't make sense around the engine well which I didn't use anyway apart from that it was all good .
Well sir, you don't let the grass grow under or around your feet. I have to agree with the preference for a center vs a dagger. I have often wondered if a trimmable center board (like trim tabs for elevators or rudders) would be advantageous. Strange thoughts. I think I recall an attempt/article in an old Popular Mechanics (of course this old man had it straight from the press). If I recall correctly they used All Thread as a screw jack connected to pinion gears for the trim tab adjustments. Brain puzzles for the lofting floor. 😁😜
@@FreeRangeLiving The article was back when foiling (we called it hydroplaning) was in its infancy. Less heel and more bite from beam to close hauled I would imagine and the stress is probably why we don't see it today. It popped in my head when I saw your lamination. More specifically was the ??? of, How would one operate it with the least moving parts? Also, Wrapping paper... Excellant repurpose. 😎
Ive been considering building a Welsford boat for years - but am uncertain i have the skills required for a reasonable result. Thank you for publishing this build series - i will be following closely
Very excited to see this taking shape! Heads up that there is a background ticking noise - maybe a fan? I didn't see anyone else mention but it is a bit intrusive to the video. Love you guys!
Likes are not showing but there are an unusual amount of dislikes. I am wondering if people have been clicking the wrong button by mistake. Anyway, as usual a great video. Hopefully RUclips has realised that if we watch it, we like it!
Looking at the stats for this shows 1392 likes and 5 dislikes. Thats 99.6% likes to dislikes, while the channel average is 99.4% I think everything is going ok.
My boatbuilding plywood came with a couple of thin sheets as packaging in the delivery van (driver asked me if I wanted it or take it away) I said I would keep it and used it later on to make patterns for the outer planking,
Im not sure if the pathfinder is the same as the navigator, but be carefull when spacing out the frames, on the navigator they are not all spaced evenly. So double check the bulkheads are in the right places or it wont be "fair"
Looking forward to this building. I am thinking of getting a kit form . I made lots of lead sinkers as a kid, just wondering why you never took the slag off the top of the lead ???
At that very first pour I was surprised too.. but then I saw all the slag coming to the top as more lead was added directly. It looked to me that they waited until the very end of the process, then skimmed off all the slag as the final step, because the finished item after cooling looked pretty clean on both sides.
@@Garryck-1just watch it again and no they did not take the slag off at all. What you sure was when they took it out of the mould. The under side of it the at the last minute they turn it over and you can still see all the slag. But I think he will clean it up but would have been better just to start again and take the slag off. Job done and clean.
@@CaptMarkSVAlcina - Yes, the underside looked a little rough. as if the slag had been quickly scraped off as the surface was beginning to cool. But nothing like it did when it had all the slag on it.
Troy, The drawings you have should be draw to a scale. If you print the drawings 1 to 1 on A1 sheets, you can buy an architects/engineer scale (ruler) to measure those parts of the drawing that are not dimensioned. Your brother-in-law can help you with that and make your boat building life 10x easier. If your brother-in-law is in construction industry, he knows all about drawing scales and printing out plans. Really, 10x easier. Ask him.
Do not make your cow a pet. Train her tp lead with a halter and know her feed wair at the head stantion. One out of four kome milk cows will kick, if she kicks let me know I can help you to keep you and the coe safe. If you milk her twice a day at the samr time you will find her waiting on you.. pull the calf the day she is born and feed the first three days molk to the calf at galf a gallpn twice a day. We don't let out calved or sheep nurce the .mother less chance for bactiers and infection. Love your show Merry Christmas
All sound advice, thank you. She is less skittish now and I've just sorted out a halter to use. She has kicked the dog, but Jet deserved it for nipping at her on day 2.
Troy it might be too late but Tally Ho has a good 3 part video on lead pouring. ruclips.net/video/vbUyt4nJlNs/видео.html He talks about the safety aspects in one of the videos. My own experience with pouring ingots for my boat was that the worst bit was the dirt and paint off the scrap lead flashing smoking and causing a toxic smell. I had to scoop the contaminants off the top as soon as they floated. The lead itself is not fuming at low temperatures.
I have been a builder of stuff all my life which includes 2 airplanes, a gyrocopter, a 17.5 foot cedar strip canoe, and 3 earthbag houses. Now I am 70, have rheumatoid arthritis and I am afraid my industrious days are over. I am not complaining. If I drop dead in the next 5 minutes I have had far more good times than I deserve. I'm lucky enough to live in the Andes mountains in Ecuador and have a local kid (28 years old, everything is relative) that has worked for me for 8 years. He has been an eager and capable student, and that is where my satisfaction comes from now. I love watching your videos because I vicariously experience through you guys the good old days.
We hadn't spoken before of Earthbag building- I find that method very interesting and it would be my go-to if I was in a position to build a house.
We would like to send you a small thing, but haven't been able to reach you by message on Patreon. Would you mind sending us a message there with your postal address?
Oh! My! God! I am literally giddy you are building this boat! I can’t wait to see you take her sailing.
I grew up sailing a Mirror. A plywood constructed boat. Good fun. Much safer than the Tassie Tiger that always capsized in the Fitzroy River. Wind gusts and crocodiles. Dad and Mum used to win races in the mirror.
This looks like it will be an aaesome boat build, really looking forward to following along 👍🏼
Once you get your drawings done, you can transfer all the lines through the paper onto the ply using a pounce wheel and then draw lines on the ply with a pencil or pen.
A buddy of mine grew up in a tidal region and also likes centerboards. His mode of operation is "set the centerboard to the expected depth and just hit it". He wrote depth markings on a line with a linkage so you just dial in your draft. In sandy or muddy conditions you don't even feel it when the board starts dragging if your not super conscious, you just see the draft marking wobble. Also great for docking, wind / current from the side have nothing on you if your board drags through the ground. Nowadays he sails a large aluminum boat but back in the day he sailed a so called "Jollenkreuzer", a design you might find interesting. Very fast and capable boats and also quite save if your reacting fast enough and don't tie down the mainsheet. They are build from wood or steel, the latter version reportedly only needs fixing the dings from hitting spur dikes in the winter.
I like this idea of setting depth limits on the CB raising line. I think that is quite a nice and simple refinement.
Great vid looking forward to the next stage
I lived in Perth and spent several trips exploring Southern W’ait A’while. A very pleasant part of the world and one I would not hesitate to explore further. No shortage of world class Timbers or coastline down there.
More fun to come!
I have just recently completed a strip canoe and want to build a boat next. I have watched dozens of how to videos on both, and I have no doubt this will be the most thorough and easy to follow build of a wooden boat. You have a way of explaining things that is easy to understand. Thanks Troy & Pascale :-)
Also, I'm sure that you are looking feverishly for the perfect Christmas gift for me but a gift is not necessary. Just have a Merry Christmas and a safe and prosperous new year.
Nice! Oh, your table is squeaking!
Love you in teaching explaining mode. ❤️
Fibro is good for centreboards. No rot. Easy to shape with a microplane or farriers rasp. No swelling. Cheap.
Farriers rasps are super handy.
Already looking forward to the first sail. A bit of lead in the centerboard does seem useless. However, on a small sailboat you balance the forces with bodyweight. I think the lead is just meant to make the centerboard go down.
That's correct
The beginnings of a small boat 🛥.Thanks Don for the lead, wood, time and company.
Hi Troy I just priced that ply here in NZ $1965.....Ouch. Keep up the good work and all the best to the family.
Greetings from a trailer sailor in the Pacific Northwest. Sorry for being a bit long-winded. You may have already been aware of all this but some things are much easier to deal with before the fact than after and thought you would prefer learning from other people's mistakes.
Having a tilt up center board and rudder for that matter are great benefits for underwater obstacles as well as beaching the boat. They do have their issues though.
In the unfortunate event of a blow down at first the boat initially will lie on its side tilted beyond 90 degrees. Gravity quickly pulls an unsecured weighted centerboard pivoting to the fully stowed position. This invertes the righting force of the keel making the boat top heavy then capsized and nearly impossible to right.
I highly recommend having your center board made with either a shear pin 10cm or so away from the pivot pin or using a Clamcleat CL257 Auto Release Cleat - MODEL CL257/R. They are made for a kickup rudder but could be used on the leading edge of your center board as well.
A warning if you use the auto release cleat with a kickup rudder. The line length changes slightly as you steer in most applications causing it to release prematurely. You need to leave a little slop in the line to allow for this.
Many trailer sailors here in the States have a two-piece “ kick up rudder” affair with an over center bungee cord setup that holds it down during normal sailing. If you hit something it pivots up around a hinge on the back side of the rudder stretching the bungee cord. The rudder ends up pointed straight back 10-20cm into the water surface so that you can still steer while beaching the boat. Sounds more complicated than it is.
On a completely different note, I highly recommend spending a little extra on a drop axle trailer. This will keep your car out of the water and make it much easier to put the boat on and off the trailer. I bring this up now because…..
Generally boat ramps slope at 1 to 8 ratio. Using a 10cm drop axle and setting up the trailer bunks to match the drop axle allowing the boat to sit 10cm lower into the trailer, the boat then sits 20cm lower than on a standard trailer. This reduces the distance you have to back your trailer into the water by 1.6 meters making it dramatically easier to launch and recover your boat as well as load and unload your gear into the boat on the trailer.
Knowing you like to repurpose things, many of the front wheel drive vans and such have drop rear axles that can be had at an auto salvage yard for a bargain price. They even have brakes in case you want to be able to stop your Subie in a hurry.
Lastly, fitting your trailer to the boat will be much easier to do just after you skin the hull. Then you're much more likely to be capable of lifting and moving the boat around by yourself. Be sure to incorporate a center runner to support the keel on the trailer. Preferably with a rubber roller on the end in case someone forgets to raise the keel before loading the boat on the trailer. Without the runner your keel can catch on the rear of the trailer when launching when the boat is just barely floating like often happens if the tide is out because the typical ramp is not nearly as steep at the bottom.
Thanks for all the sailing videos. Absolutely nothing else even remotely like it on the web. Please consider making a playlist for the boat build or adding it to the free range living playlist as it does not show up on free range living.
Thanks : TimSharkey_LensN2Shutter
Thank you Tim, for all of those great points you raise. I see the Welsford group talk about putting a strop on the centre board to pull it back out in a blow down, but I think your system to be better. I was considering a 'downhaul' and cleat, so that is timely. The build videos will have their own playlist in our post Christmas digital tidy up!
It’s always good to watch you build and explain the process along the way. You are a man of many wonderful traits of knowledge. I also like your shed. Thanks for bringing us along on your build. A cool looking bug too :)
Hot stuff!
Thanks again for a great video, I cannot wait for the next video.
Thanks for taking us along.
Nice work.
I've never watched someone build a boat so this is really interesting. Would love to have a large workshop like that as I could get up to lots of trouble!
Exciting to see this construction process. On the edge of my seat. Thanks for sharing. 🤗 ⛵
Yup. This is gunna go well. Onwards Troy.
A good start to a beautiful boat.
I must say I’m very pleased about you going into boating again via this build. I do miss your sailing episodes like …very much.
Anyways, life is a roller coaster and I’m glad you are happy in your new life.
A little bit windy here in the harbour tonight and some few days until the winter solstice = very dark and short days. Cheers m8’s and have a splendid and have a splendid celebration 🎅🏼
Lovely to hear from you again Miq. Yes, we were never going to permanently leave the sea, but most long term sailors have a bit of time aground to pursue other matters. We do look forward to a day of being a family afloat, but we need a sail training vessel first 😉
I sure can imagine that 😎
CHEERS from HERE!
Thanks for sharing you project with us Troy You have made a great start.
AS ALWAYS VERY COOL!!!!! Us Don's are AWESOME
Your exuberance for the project is plain to see. Good luck!
So good to see you getting back to sea!
back when I was building boats ...In the US ..we would have called that a swing keel ...an excellent choice for cruising along shallow shores and exploring tidal streams ..something I used to like to do myself ..the build is looking great so far I am keen to see how it all goes down ....!
Yes I adopted the name the designer has used, but we also would call it a swing keel too. She will draw about 220mm or just over 8" with keel up so very well suited to shallow exploration.
Nice work I’ve plans for a whaler but found difficult to implement. Learned heaps from your tips just first episode. Thanks.
Amazing work ❤ all the little steps add up……. To a boat! What a unique boat too.
Hi Troy, I’m excited about this boat build I’ve never build a boat. I have absolutely love them but it’s going to be wonderful to watch all the challenges and excitement that you have building this boat. Keep up the good work. Always love your Videos , Cliff from Logan City Queensland Australia 🇦🇺🧑🏾🦽
Nice - good start
Love seeing you guys into boat stuff again keep up the good work.
Lovely design you chose❤
Mdf takes a cut from a jigsaw really nicely and is a great material for pattern making.
Pine in your CB? Pine is very rot prone, I mean very. The CB is low and it has holes in it. All this can be dealt with using CPES and epoxy, but pine is also very weak. Get some Aussie ash!
I also like MDF for all things router Jig. The CB will be well sheathed in epoxy and the boat garaged between sails, so hopefully the pine doesn't see water. There is a large boat, built of pallet wood, sailing Queensland and doing quite well after many years, also epoxy sheathed.
ive always liked john wellsford designes and will end up building one myself. i am so glad i can watch your build and learn and then start mine. with some more smarts. . thank you and look forward to the build and splash.
Fun to watch this! Always like your style and ease with how you present. Looking forward to seeing the project to the end.
Great first episode. Looking forward to the rest.
Looking Good.
Off to a good start I see. I find that lofting the frames is the tedious part but once you have those patterns the build becomes much more enjoyable. I salvaged most of the lead for my 27 footers keel from automotive wheel weights. That's one of the ways I lowered the cost of the build. The swing keel for the 21 foot Hartley, that I will get back to work on eventually is cut from a sheet of 7/16 steel. The plans for this boat came from New Plymouth, New Zealand. I worked in a manufacturing company and was able to buy that and the stainless steel that I made most of my fittings from at company cost so there are often ways for us all to cut cost without sacrificing quality. That cypress hardwood for the leading edge of your keel should hold up quite well. Too bad you aren't building the Hartley 21. I could follow along as you build and share ideas on some of the aspects of the project. I am surprised, now that I think of it, that you didn't pick something with at least a cuddy cabin on it for extra storage space and maybe installation of a porta potty.
There is an additional plan set for a cabin on Pathfinder, and that is how I built mine. It sleeps two in cozy accommodations, but it is a lot more work than I expected. Worth it in wet NZ, maybe not so much in warmer places. These boats have a lot of dry storage built in, the way they are put together - which is quite different from a Hartley fwiw. Helped my Dad build a TS16 back in the day, so moderately familiar with that design too.
Do you find the cabin a liability during sailing or anchoring in any way?
Wheel weights are a great idea, though it must be worth a few cartons to the tyre blokes. I find it quite relaxing lofting the plans, but I'll be happy to go on to the next step.
One thing, the leading edge of the CB isn't Cyprus, it's eucalyptus. Very hard stuff.
Even better..........@@FreeRangeLiving
@FreeRangeLiving Absolutely no problem sailing, and it gives you that nice sheltered spot to sit either side of the hatch.
A little bit more of a PITA anchoring compared with the open version, as you actually have to go forward. Not a huge issue, unless you slip on the tiny deck, and bark your shin on the gunnel while desperately trying to not go overboard. Twice. In one day - ever seen a grown man cry 😂.
A major PITA stepping/unstepping the mast though- a borderline unsafe balancing act heaving the mast in and out on a slippery deck and a wobbly trailer, while trying to not drop the whole plot onto the car parked beside you. I would 100% recommend a tabernacle on deck and a compression post if you go the cabin route.
I think JW's description for the cabin was a plywood pup tent, and that's pretty accurate. Totally worth it here (South Island NZ), given our humorous weather gods. Somewhere a bit warmer, a decent boom tent or similar might be a good/better option as you'd keep all the open boat space.
Great start, look forward to following.👍
Hi Troy, will look forward to seeing the progress each week on your boat build. All the best to you all, from the UK.
Surprised you used polyurethane glue, I would have thought it may have needed epoxy. Interested in this design will be great to watch your progress, cheers
It will be glassed with epoxy and painted, so should be pretty strong.
Inspiring stuff, a great attitude. Straight into it, good luck with the rest of the build. Cheers
Poor Huntsman Spider. Hey Troy, was that just one Huntsman or two? Usually the Huntsman's are in pairs and when they are found by a Hornet, they are often both paralyzed and taken back to the nest and kept as future food for the kids. I have sat on my back steps watching this happen. Saw a Hornet just like that one at your place, dragging a rather large Huntsman across the yard and into the garden. A little while later, the Hornet was back dragging yet another rather large Huntsman across the yard to the nest. And people freak out over Huntsman spiders. This is why I have a fear of Hornets. Thank goodness they are only small, even if they sting like having a roofing nail driven into you.
Great video. Can't wait to see this build come to completion.
I only saw that one spider getting the grim treatment before the lead was all done. I guess the hornet will lay as many eggs as she wress spiders.
@@FreeRangeLiving They must be good tucker for baby hornets. The poor creatures don't seem to stand a chance.
Well, the heat is coming to our neck of the woods. I'm in the town east of you 150+ ks, and enjoy much the same climate. I hope you guys are enjoying your time in this region.
I had a couple of errors in my build one was the deck camber on frame 2 the drawing measurments didn't work out and I made it to suit , another was frame 6 the top of I moved out 4mm to make it fair a few other measurements didn't make sense around the engine well which I didn't use anyway apart from that it was all good .
Thanks for sharing
Awesome build. Can’t wait to see it done
Well sir, you don't let the grass grow under or around your feet. I have to agree with the preference for a center vs a dagger. I have often wondered if a trimmable center board (like trim tabs for elevators or rudders) would be advantageous. Strange thoughts. I think I recall an attempt/article in an old Popular Mechanics (of course this old man had it straight from the press). If I recall correctly they used All Thread as a screw jack connected to pinion gears for the trim tab adjustments. Brain puzzles for the lofting floor. 😁😜
For it to benefit, I would imagine the board would have to be finely crafted. Do you think windward performance is the goal?
@@FreeRangeLiving The article was back when foiling (we called it hydroplaning) was in its infancy. Less heel and more bite from beam to close hauled I would imagine and the stress is probably why we don't see it today. It popped in my head when I saw your lamination. More specifically was the ??? of, How would one operate it with the least moving parts? Also, Wrapping paper... Excellant repurpose. 😎
Lovely Comment ;-)
Great video as always just got my free range homestead shirt,love it well made.
Very happy that they are arriving in timely fashion. Hope it lasts you well.
This is getting very exciting !
Ive been considering building a Welsford boat for years - but am uncertain i have the skills required for a reasonable result. Thank you for publishing this build series - i will be following closely
I wonder if we can change your mind and you'll feel confident in your skills as we go. We will talk money too, which is a consideration.
All errors can be fixed with glue, epoxy and patience
Very excited to see this taking shape! Heads up that there is a background ticking noise - maybe a fan? I didn't see anyone else mention but it is a bit intrusive to the video. Love you guys!
Not sure what that could be. Was it all the way through?
Looks like you are off to a good start, hope you and the girls are doing fine!
Very well, thankyou
Likes are not showing but there are an unusual amount of dislikes. I am wondering if people have been clicking the wrong button by mistake. Anyway, as usual a great video. Hopefully RUclips has realised that if we watch it, we like it!
Looking at the stats for this shows 1392 likes and 5 dislikes. Thats 99.6% likes to dislikes, while the channel average is 99.4% I think everything is going ok.
My boatbuilding plywood came with a couple of thin sheets as packaging in the delivery van (driver asked me if I wanted it or take it away) I said I would keep it and used it later on to make patterns for the outer planking,
Yes I hoped it would be a useful scavenge when making patterns.
Im not sure if the pathfinder is the same as the navigator, but be carefull when spacing out the frames, on the navigator they are not all spaced evenly. So double check the bulkheads are in the right places or it wont be "fair"
I'm at the double check everything stage right now!
Great Troy. May I suggest looking at Tight R bond glues.
Thanks for the tip
Have you seen "RAN" sailing and their build of their boat? Thanks for the video. Love your work.
I haven't, but I understand it is quite a bit more ambitious! I need something I can sail in 1m depth or blue water so a little boat for my first go.
@@FreeRangeLiving yes it's just a "little" bigger .. it's 50 feet .. lol
G'day Troy just wondering where you sourced you ply from, all the best with your build.
M&B sales in Bunbury
Looking forward to this building.
I am thinking of getting a kit form .
I made lots of lead sinkers as a kid, just wondering why you never took the slag off the top of the lead ???
At that very first pour I was surprised too.. but then I saw all the slag coming to the top as more lead was added directly. It looked to me that they waited until the very end of the process, then skimmed off all the slag as the final step, because the finished item after cooling looked pretty clean on both sides.
@@Garryck-1 ok I will have another look at the video at the time slot.
@@Garryck-1just watch it again and no they did not take the slag off at all.
What you sure was when they took it out of the mould. The under side of it the at the last minute they turn it over and you can still see all the slag.
But I think he will clean it up but would have been better just to start again and take the slag off. Job done and clean.
@@CaptMarkSVAlcina - Yes, the underside looked a little rough. as if the slag had been quickly scraped off as the surface was beginning to cool. But nothing like it did when it had all the slag on it.
What model pathfinder is it Troy
Troy, The drawings you have should be draw to a scale. If you print the drawings 1 to 1 on A1 sheets, you can buy an architects/engineer scale (ruler) to measure those parts of the drawing that are not dimensioned. Your brother-in-law can help you with that and make your boat building life 10x easier. If your brother-in-law is in construction industry, he knows all about drawing scales and printing out plans. Really, 10x easier. Ask him.
What model pathfinder is it Troy😅
A full size model
"That all came to AUD$ 989, or about $16.50 American"
I miss Australian humour.
Finish with a blooper reel😅
the whole thing is a blooper reel
171223 Hi. Watching this build with interest. Regards
Do not make your cow a pet. Train her tp lead with a halter and know her feed wair at the head stantion. One out of four kome milk cows will kick, if she kicks let me know I can help you to keep you and the coe safe. If you milk her twice a day at the samr time you will find her waiting on you.. pull the calf the day she is born and feed the first three days molk to the calf at galf a gallpn twice a day. We don't let out calved or sheep nurce the .mother less chance for bactiers and infection. Love your show Merry Christmas
All sound advice, thank you. She is less skittish now and I've just sorted out a halter to use. She has kicked the dog, but Jet deserved it for nipping at her on day 2.
I feel guilty being jealous of another mans' bar clamps
I coveted another's power planer and it led me down the path to the tool shop, so be careful!
Troy it might be too late but Tally Ho has a good 3 part video on lead pouring. ruclips.net/video/vbUyt4nJlNs/видео.html He talks about the safety aspects in one of the videos. My own experience with pouring ingots for my boat was that the worst bit was the dirt and paint off the scrap lead flashing smoking and causing a toxic smell. I had to scoop the contaminants off the top as soon as they floated. The lead itself is not fuming at low temperatures.
Yep.. uninformed people do tend to get far too worked up about the subject of lead pouring. It's nowhere near as bad as they imagine.
We found the slag to be easily removed by wire brush with little adhesion, if it didn't stay behind in the crucible.
:)
(:
I hope you weren’t forced into this project to bring the viewers boat content😂. Take your time and enjoy it, don’t make it a job!
I've wanted to do thus for a little over 10 years. It's a mistake that has been brewing for some time.
@@FreeRangeLiving very glad to hear!
Merry Christmas from Tennessee
Music: Even a Blind Man can see Christmas
ruclips.net/video/Kl0ugYraRfY/видео.html