There are two kinds of craftsmen -- those who have made mistakes (I'm in this group) and those who are going to make mistakes. If you do enough work, you will have some setbacks. Not editing out this little hiccup simply reinforces the integrity of you as a builder and videographer. Thanks for taking us along on this journey.
Whenever I do something and it goes off without a hitch, that's when I worry the most about if I had done it correctly or forgot something. Failure is always the best teacher.
Such attention to detail is the key lesson here. As always, your craftmanship is terrific. But the best of us will find ourselves in the dumper. It happens. Your response to these situations is what I admire about your channel.
Troy, the charcuterie boards are beautiful and a perfect accent to your wedding. Definitely knowing there is an imperfection, even if no one else knows, is troubling to the maker. As always, Be well & 💛 to all of you.
Thankyou. I'd probably 'Make Do' with the mistake. Lose Faith in my abilities. Then allow bigger mistakes further down the build process. Then hate the boat in the end. Thankyou for your perfection !!
Nice job on the scarphing jig Troy. Bit of bad luck on the scarph, however. That could be partly the plywood to blame. I do quite a bit of scarphing. (Being a boatbuilder) I lay the two faces together, mark out double the length of the scarph, plane it with an electric planer to about 80%, then hand plane with a razor sharp #5 1/2 to perfection. It's really quick and easy. Just watch the laminations, They'll tell you if you're right or not. Good luck mate, and looking forward to the next episode!!
I’ve built clinker ply boats with scarfs everywhere. I am 100% +ve your scarf would work fine as it is (even if you don’t fibreglass it). In fact the boat will be heavier than need be if you do glass it. To each his own, though. I once built a staircase and cut the mortises for each tread and riser carefully by hand. The stair had a slight curve (3/16” over 15’) when assembled - because i cut out the pencil line on one stringer but only to the line on the other. Everyone said I did a brilliant job, but I knew….. sometimes that’s all it takes to take the shine off. Sometimes perfect is the enemy of good. I empathise with your perfectionism.
I know you've probably worked it out by now but you're down to 4800-72mm (4728mm) already, so you don't have room to do it again from scratch by cutting out this section with these two sheets if you need to make it to 4700 total. Unless you cut through at very steep bevel maybe in the dead centre of the joint to take the meat of the joint out and then re-scarf but I don't know excatly how deep that void/epoxy section is and if you'd still make it to 4700 with just 28mm left to spare. I know ply isn't cheap and you were probably just bummed at the end of the video but no one is near perfect and you do outstanding work mate, in all you do, with very basic tools and a heap of skill. I'd be tempted to blend out that larger void /fill of thickened epoxy, blend the step flush to remove any stress raisers and use a fine chopped strand and epoxy mix as a more structural filler to bring the material back up to +12mm thickness overall and then plane flush back to 12mm if you need to save these boards for this one section - not ideal but that would give you a solid composite fill of comparable/superior strength to the ply and appearance is irrelevent if you're glassing over. Best of luck either way and don't be so bloody hard on yourself haha.
You had me watching for 28 or so minutes to answer the question of how on earth Troy screwed up? Every project I have seen you tackle so far has been successful and well executed, the hard dodger comes to mind. I’m looking forward to the fix. Congratulations on your upcoming nuptials.
Good morning Troy: PNW Trailer Sailor here again. Sorry for the no doubt late suggestion. I have worked a bit with oak which is very susceptible to blow outs. Firmly and securely attaching another piece of wood underneath the thin edge prior to cutting so that it is effectively no longer a thin edge will virtually eliminate any chance of blowing out. With thin plywood it may be necessary to sandwich it between two pieces so that the thin edge can not separate from the backing piece underneath. If it separates blowout will occure. Adhesives are also an option. Also as you said 4700 is necessary out of 4800 total available. I could be wrong but my math goes 4800 - 72 = 4728 not accounting for any extra consumed in the process. This would be where you are in length at the video's end. Don't see how you have enough to redo it as you'll lose a min of 72 more (probably closer to 85). Regardless, less than the 4700 necessary. So two joints on the panel with one more sheet or two new sheets. Hopefully there are plenty of locations to use the wood from your first attempt. Mistakes hurt but all we can do is the best we can do. I have always said that I screw up better than 10 men. Truth is, the more difficult the job, the bigger the possibility of screwing up. If we don't do difficult things, we would not make big mistakes. Not really an option for some of us that like a challenge. Best thing we can do is learn from other people's mistakes. Most painful is learning from our own. The important thing is that we learn. I like to run a sample using scrap on difficult parts to test the process first. Sorry for your headaches. On a more pleasant note, have you had a chance to try making apple jack? Till next time: TimSharkey_LensN2shutter
I'm not sure what I was thinking to rout from the shoulder to the thin edge- a sure recipe for failure. Reversing that cut has worked well, but I videoed it so I won't waste words. I have indeed made a small batch of apple jack, and spread the word to some enthusiastic brewing friends. Quite a vapour comes off of it! I've also pressed 60litres of hard cider that is aging now as part of our wedding grog ration. We have friends making 100litres of beer as well so we hope we have enough!
160 liters should just handle 40-50 close friends and relatives. But seriously, congratulations on your wonderful find. You two were very lucky to find one another. Now back to the refreshments, you said "quiet the vapor" but not whether or not you cared for it. Not every mans cup of tea as they say. I enjoy it now and then but prefer the clean flavor of regular hard cider. Here in the PNW home brewing is big business. We after all have hops growing wild l. Not much of a beer man myself but I appreciate a good ale now and then. If you have access to pears, they to make an interesting hard cider. And though it may seem obvious, any non sparkling beverage can be jacked if you want to experiment. Another popular PNW drink is apple pie. It is made from ultra high test corn whiskey (moonshine) flavored with spices and frozen concentrated apple juice to taste just like apple pie. Recently some distilleries have put some out but nowhere near the quality and flavor of our "local chemists" Anyway, I hope you enjoyed the apple jack and the video link I sent on the double damned sailboat race on the Columbia. Till next time: Tim Sharkey_LensN2shutter
Hey guess what my friend I expected you to make mistakes. In spite of your vast skill set it's normal to make mistakes and even the pros do it. The difference being the pros won't admit it but because of your honesty you do. Good for you and us. Hopefully we all learned from this. Because of your integrity I know that you will fix the mistake correctly and not just cover it up which would haunt you forever. I have yet to build a boat where I didn't have to cope with something that didn't go as it should have. You're doing fine and thanks for sharing Troy.
I have always liked your videos and find them very educational, one remark you said, , every little weakness in your vessel will play on your mind when you are in rough seas. Having doubts about your boat is the last thing you need. Keep up the good work. Best wishes to all three of you..
I love this kind of problem solving and when it goes wrong, it's just like my home shop. It's a great feeling when a solution works the first time, but pretty rare for me - I'm usually changing the approach multiple times, but Usually succeed eventually and feeling of satisfaction is always several times greater when the solutions are harder to achieve. Just sayin...
Anything Worth Doing right, is worth doing wrong, over and over, till you learn the intricacies of doing it right. Don't ever begrudge a person, (including yourself) the opportunity to fail. There is nothing more important than the lessons learned. Pity the unfortunate person who does it right by accident, because he/she is getting set up for a catastrophic failure when it counts the most. Thankyou for having the courage to share this learning experience with us. We learned a lot. Just think how much we would have missed if you had done it perfectly the first time!!! :#)
Interesting how you used the router and sled to make the scarf joint. I had good results drawing a line and using a power plane with a very shallow setting, finishing with a belt sander. Good to see you're not discouraged. Enjoying the build!
As some fella pointed out already, you don't have enough meat left. The initial scarf cut down the total length from 4880 to 4808, then you'd have to chop out another 72 to 4763, and then overlap them another 72 to 4664. But that's ok, because your scarf joint is absolutely fine; the missing feather edge of plywood will have no effect whatsoever on the strength of the thing. Epoxy bog is probably stronger than having wood there. If you're really worried about it, stick an extra patch or two of fibreglass over top and it'll be strong as a strong thing.
Thanks for an informative and honest video Troy. I have built a few plywood boats over the years and l have always cut the scarfs using a power plane for the bulk of the scarf and finished using a hand plane to finish. No jig just using the line of the ply as the guide. Its best not to cut to a feather edge as it doesn' t have any strength. The jig you used was good but it would be better to adjust the depth of cut rather than havng an increasing cut depth. Also machine both sheets at the same time. Regards Dave.
You could try putting epoxy on the butt end of the plywood first. After it dries, it might stay together a bit better during the cutting process. Just a thought.
Hi Troy, just wondering if it would be easier to make the scarf joint using your hand circular saw. If you were to overlap your pieces of plywood then after setting your saw to a maximum angle, cut through both sheets of plywood using a straight edge. You will then have matching angles on your plywood. Just a thought. Congratulations to you and Pascale for your upcoming wedding, wishing you all the very best.
You couldn't set the angle shallow enough on a circ saw. Most go to 45 degrees, and this would require a cut of 9 degrees, as well as six inches of saw depth.
The very nature of plywood makes it difficult to use a router. Small bites/multiple passes to get to (or close to) finished depth. Direction of the cut, use the back side (1 to 6 O'clock) of the bit to make the feathered end cuts. Sand or plane to the finished depth. Penetrating epoxy to stabilize the pointy end before cutting. The last bit is rough on tools, but thought I would throw it out there. I have never scarfed plywood so, with a grain of salt. 😉 Small bites and direction of cut should do the job.
V groove the problem area at your 6:1 or 12:1 and bandaid it with glass. Like you would a thru-hull, do both sides if it'll make your subconscious happy. :)
Cut from the bottom to the top. So the wood on top of the slope will hold the lip. Surely initial top cut is necessary to avoid tear into shreds the top line of the slope.
The scarfs not too bad. I'd sand down 1 layer of the ply (about 1mm) with the belt sander 90mm each side of the scarf and lay in one layer of 400gsm across the ply and fill over it with a trowel and filler when it had set off. I cant remember how thick the ply is but both sides could be done if your worried and its a pretty quick fix.
Did all mine with hand planer and sanding block found it quite enjoyable and they all came out perfect, the plywood gets very delicate at the feathered edges you found out.Once you glass that and epoxy I think it will still be wrong enough. Enjoy mate.
This is a ply and epoxy boat, with some glass where reinforcement is needed. Solid fibreglass boats usually involve a mould of some sort. We're skipping that.
You've probably already finished the scarf joint but I would avoid taking that huge gulp of wood as the final cut. I would reduce the cut depth into 4 passes along the joint. It will reduce the chances of tearout a lot.
While redoing is nicer, I've seen quite a few videos testing epoxy it's usually the wood that fails not the epoxy, so you probably could've lived with it!
I have done a few scarf joints in my day, I would have sanded and filled, the epoxy is stronger than the ply anyway so strength isn't an issue. I get your reasoning and understand why so please don't see this as criticism just an alternative view. You did miss 2 very common ply joint systems equally popular to the scarf joint in small boats the glassed over butt joint and the backing plate butt joint both very effective and in a framed boat like yours practical and safe. My last boat was butt blocked and I am putting that through some pretty hard work without issue. I like scarfing only really because it feels a bit more traditional and is easier to make invisible it is the hardest to get into a perfect flat plan though. My next boat is designed as glassed over Butt joint however I am considering going with scarf joint as it is a large stitch and tape boat I feel if I put the extra effort into a good scarf then I will get a fairer curve on the wider panels. In that light I really appreciate the tutorial on the jig I will be doing that rather than my usual hand plane.
The backing plate butt joint is actually specified for the planking, once the frames are laid up in the plans. I still will probably scarf it though, now the Jig is ironed out.
S..t happens. The easiest fix is to use a power planer to cut a1 mm trench-across the sheet over the affected area.. Epoxy liberally alnd lay a strip of fibreglass to size in the trench. Fill with thickened epoxy and compress with baking paper and a straight stud and weights. This will give you equivalent strength and be invisible under paint.
Alert to other subscribers, even with the bell clicked to subscribe to all videos, you may not be alerted when they post videos. I've been a subscriber for years. I'm not sure what's up with RUclips. 🤷♂️ I'm looking forward to your wedding. ❤ Thanks for sharing.
RUclips is fucked (and getting worse), that's the problem. Comments not appearing, advanced search no longer exist, displaying videos you've already watched, "related videos " that aren't, recommended videos you didn't ask for, the same videos appearing after ignoring them for a week..... it's never ending. I'm at a loss as to why Apple, Microsoft, X, or any other big te h company hasn't created their own version of RUclips. I know there's millions of people out there that would love to see a competitor.
I have my subscriptions page bookmarked at the top of screen. I only use that to navigate youtube. Sometimes a notification can take up to a few weeks but I always see the vid thumbnail on the day of upload.
Good failure, or is it. Those few fibers missing means diddly squat , the overall strength of the joint. The epoxy used to join the panels are far stronger than the missing fibers in your scarf. if you are worried, just put another layer of glass over it. I have done many scarfs, and I have found that the best way to keep your feather edge, is to use double sided tape (carpet tape) at the edge of the plank and stick it down. Note that some designers state that just butt join the ply's and tape over both sides of the joint, never a fan! All my scarfs are done at 8 - 1!
Mate shit happens, scarf two sheets at once,set second sheet back 72 mm and bobs your uncle,even put another sacrificial piece of board underneath, being sure to keep it flat . Cheers.
I would have used a solid wood not plywood it was always going the breakup and with laminated wood if water gets into the layers you can look at replacing the floor on a regular basis.
It’s alright mate. We are our own worst critics sometimes. You have fat in your ply length. And if you find you need to do it again after a second time just think of it as practice. Plus if it all gets to short you could always add another piece to the other end making it 3 pieces in total with 2 scarfs. It’s just wood remember it can have bit added.
@@FreeRangeLiving I have built many stress skin structures. Now days a jigsaw joint is used from a CNC machine, but before then a triangle finger joint. For a long narrow components, yes the scarf joint is the way to go.
I think hand cutting finger joins over such a broad panel is pretty intimidating for me. I guess I could come up with a Jig if I had to. I've done them on little drawers before, but they were square fingers.
I saw this builder join 2 sheets of plywood and was intrigued by it, ruclips.net/video/_gT4gpY-L1U/видео.htmlfeature=shared. I was thinking a template with a repeating pattern and using the plies as the steps might work. I know this is very late but wanted to share with you and others.
I like the variety I get some people aren't into some aspects but to others its all good, personally I am a hobby boatbuilder with a new (to me) lifestyle block so get a little something from every video. Even though I don't have an interest in pigs or goats its still interesting.
I did my scarf joint with a Porter cable 'skill saw" taking the foot off and making a foot with a steep angle. when I built the drift boat.
There are two kinds of craftsmen -- those who have made mistakes (I'm in this group) and those who are going to make mistakes. If you do enough work, you will have some setbacks. Not editing out this little hiccup simply reinforces the integrity of you as a builder and videographer. Thanks for taking us along on this journey.
I worked my own automotive glazing business for thirty years, and I never made one mistake cutting laminate glass, ever. And I don't tell lies ...
Whenever I do something and it goes off without a hitch, that's when I worry the most about if I had done it correctly or forgot something. Failure is always the best teacher.
The man who never made a mistake never made anything Troy.
Lifelong carpenter but newbie with boats. I think your videos are honest, realistic. Thank you.
Such attention to detail is the key lesson here. As always, your craftmanship is terrific.
But the best of us will find ourselves in the dumper. It happens.
Your response to these situations is what I admire about your channel.
It's always valuable to see real experiences instead of edited versions.
Good stuff Troy, keep at it!
From someone who specialises in making mistakes. 😂
Troy, the charcuterie boards are beautiful and a perfect accent to your wedding. Definitely knowing there is an imperfection, even if no one else knows, is troubling to the maker. As always, Be well & 💛 to all of you.
Hi Ann
Thankyou. I'd probably 'Make Do' with the mistake. Lose Faith in my abilities. Then allow bigger mistakes further down the build process. Then hate the boat in the end. Thankyou for your perfection !!
That's a great insight. I hadn't thought of that, but I would probably be exactly the same 😀
Nice job on the scarphing jig Troy. Bit of bad luck on the scarph, however. That could be partly the plywood to blame.
I do quite a bit of scarphing. (Being a boatbuilder)
I lay the two faces together, mark out double the length of the scarph, plane it with an electric planer to about 80%, then hand plane with a razor sharp #5 1/2 to perfection. It's really quick and easy. Just watch the laminations, They'll tell you if you're right or not. Good luck mate, and looking forward to the next episode!!
YOU are always doing a Fantastic Job Troy!!!! Very interesting to watch you BOTH Create together
I’ve built clinker ply boats with scarfs everywhere. I am 100% +ve your scarf would work fine as it is (even if you don’t fibreglass it).
In fact the boat will be heavier than need be if you do glass it.
To each his own, though.
I once built a staircase and cut the mortises for each tread and riser carefully by hand. The stair had a slight curve (3/16” over 15’) when assembled - because i cut out the pencil line on one stringer but only to the line on the other. Everyone said I did a brilliant job, but I knew….. sometimes that’s all it takes to take the shine off. Sometimes perfect is the enemy of good.
I empathise with your perfectionism.
I know you've probably worked it out by now but you're down to 4800-72mm (4728mm) already, so you don't have room to do it again from scratch by cutting out this section with these two sheets if you need to make it to 4700 total. Unless you cut through at very steep bevel maybe in the dead centre of the joint to take the meat of the joint out and then re-scarf but I don't know excatly how deep that void/epoxy section is and if you'd still make it to 4700 with just 28mm left to spare. I know ply isn't cheap and you were probably just bummed at the end of the video but no one is near perfect and you do outstanding work mate, in all you do, with very basic tools and a heap of skill.
I'd be tempted to blend out that larger void /fill of thickened epoxy, blend the step flush to remove any stress raisers and use a fine chopped strand and epoxy mix as a more structural filler to bring the material back up to +12mm thickness overall and then plane flush back to 12mm if you need to save these boards for this one section - not ideal but that would give you a solid composite fill of comparable/superior strength to the ply and appearance is irrelevent if you're glassing over. Best of luck either way and don't be so bloody hard on yourself haha.
High stakes scarfing! Don't worry, there's a cunning scheme afoot and I've gotten over it by now ;)
You had me watching for 28 or so minutes to answer the question of how on earth Troy screwed up? Every project I have seen you tackle so far has been successful and well executed, the hard dodger comes to mind. I’m looking forward to the fix.
Congratulations on your upcoming nuptials.
Good morning Troy: PNW Trailer Sailor here again. Sorry for the no doubt late suggestion. I have worked a bit with oak which is very susceptible to blow outs. Firmly and securely attaching another piece of wood underneath the thin edge prior to cutting so that it is effectively no longer a thin edge will virtually eliminate any chance of blowing out. With thin plywood it may be necessary to sandwich it between two pieces so that the thin edge can not separate from the backing piece underneath. If it separates blowout will occure. Adhesives are also an option.
Also as you said 4700 is necessary out of 4800 total available. I could be wrong but my math goes 4800 - 72 = 4728 not accounting for any extra consumed in the process. This would be where you are in length at the video's end. Don't see how you have enough to redo it as you'll lose a min of 72 more (probably closer to 85). Regardless, less than the 4700 necessary. So two joints on the panel with one more sheet or two new sheets. Hopefully there are plenty of locations to use the wood from your first attempt.
Mistakes hurt but all we can do is the best we can do. I have always said that I screw up better than 10 men. Truth is, the more difficult the job, the bigger the possibility of screwing up. If we don't do difficult things, we would not make big mistakes. Not really an option for some of us that like a challenge. Best thing we can do is learn from other people's mistakes. Most painful is learning from our own. The important thing is that we learn.
I like to run a sample using scrap on difficult parts to test the process first. Sorry for your headaches.
On a more pleasant note, have you had a chance to try making apple jack?
Till next time: TimSharkey_LensN2shutter
I'm not sure what I was thinking to rout from the shoulder to the thin edge- a sure recipe for failure. Reversing that cut has worked well, but I videoed it so I won't waste words.
I have indeed made a small batch of apple jack, and spread the word to some enthusiastic brewing friends. Quite a vapour comes off of it! I've also pressed 60litres of hard cider that is aging now as part of our wedding grog ration. We have friends making 100litres of beer as well so we hope we have enough!
160 liters should just handle 40-50 close friends and relatives. But seriously, congratulations on your wonderful find. You two were very lucky to find one another.
Now back to the refreshments, you said "quiet the vapor" but not whether or not you cared for it. Not every mans cup of tea as they say. I enjoy it now and then but prefer the clean flavor of regular hard cider.
Here in the PNW home brewing is big business. We after all have hops growing wild l. Not much of a beer man myself but I appreciate a good ale now and then. If you have access to pears, they to make an interesting hard cider. And though it may seem obvious, any non sparkling beverage can be jacked if you want to experiment. Another popular PNW drink is apple pie. It is made from ultra high test corn whiskey (moonshine) flavored with spices and frozen concentrated apple juice to taste just like apple pie. Recently some distilleries have put some out but nowhere near the quality and flavor of our "local chemists"
Anyway, I hope you enjoyed the apple jack and the video link I sent on the double damned sailboat race on the Columbia.
Till next time:
Tim Sharkey_LensN2shutter
Hey guess what my friend I expected you to make mistakes. In spite of your vast skill set it's normal to make mistakes and even the pros do it. The difference being the pros won't admit it but because of your honesty you do. Good for you and us. Hopefully we all learned from this. Because of your integrity I know that you will fix the mistake correctly and not just cover it up which would haunt you forever. I have yet to build a boat where I didn't have to cope with something that didn't go as it should have. You're doing fine and thanks for sharing Troy.
I have always liked your videos and find them very educational, one remark you said, , every little weakness in your vessel will play on your mind when you are in rough seas. Having doubts about your boat is the last thing you need. Keep up the good work. Best wishes to all three of you..
I love this kind of problem solving and when it goes wrong, it's just like my home shop. It's a great feeling when a solution works the first time, but pretty rare for me - I'm usually changing the approach multiple times, but Usually succeed eventually and feeling of satisfaction is always several times greater when the solutions are harder to achieve. Just sayin...
Anything Worth Doing right, is worth doing wrong, over and over, till you learn the intricacies of doing it right. Don't ever begrudge a person, (including yourself) the opportunity to fail. There is nothing more important than the lessons learned. Pity the unfortunate person who does it right by accident, because he/she is getting set up for a catastrophic failure when it counts the most. Thankyou for having the courage to share this learning experience with us. We learned a lot. Just think how much we would have missed if you had done it perfectly the first time!!!
:#)
Nice little bit of philosophising!
Love your explanations of the whats & whys.
Troy, you did an excellent job on Marue… don’t beat yourself up…always enjoy your boat build presentations… John, Ontario, Canada
Interesting how you used the router and sled to make the scarf joint. I had good results drawing a line and using a power plane with a very shallow setting, finishing with a belt sander.
Good to see you're not discouraged.
Enjoying the build!
Always find your instructional style both entertaining and interesting. The good thing is we get to learn from your mistake as well.
No doubt you’ll get it perfect on try two Troy! Thanks for sharing the flub ups as well.
As some fella pointed out already, you don't have enough meat left. The initial scarf cut down the total length from 4880 to 4808, then you'd have to chop out another 72 to 4763, and then overlap them another 72 to 4664. But that's ok, because your scarf joint is absolutely fine; the missing feather edge of plywood will have no effect whatsoever on the strength of the thing. Epoxy bog is probably stronger than having wood there. If you're really worried about it, stick an extra patch or two of fibreglass over top and it'll be strong as a strong thing.
The initial scarf didn't remove any length it just 'sharpened' it over a length of 72mm for both pieces, which then overlap each other by 36mm.
Congratulations on your upcoming nuptials. 👏😉🥰
Thanks for an informative and honest video Troy. I have built a few plywood boats over the years and l have always cut the scarfs using a power plane for the bulk of the scarf and finished using a hand plane to finish. No jig just using the line of the ply as the guide. Its best not to cut to a feather edge as it doesn' t have any strength. The jig you used was good but it would be better to adjust the depth of cut rather than havng an increasing cut depth. Also machine both sheets at the same time.
Regards Dave.
You could try putting epoxy on the butt end of the plywood first. After it dries, it might stay together a bit better during the cutting process. Just a thought.
Thanks for showing your stuff ups, valuable
Hi Troy, just wondering if it would be easier to make the scarf joint using your hand circular saw. If you were to overlap your pieces of plywood then after setting your saw to a maximum angle, cut through both sheets of plywood using a straight edge. You will then have matching angles on your plywood. Just a thought. Congratulations to you and Pascale for your upcoming wedding, wishing you all the very best.
You couldn't set the angle shallow enough on a circ saw. Most go to 45 degrees, and this would require a cut of 9 degrees, as well as six inches of saw depth.
This is the answer
Congratulations guys im supposed to be getting married around then too but in usa have a wonderful life together n best of luck love the build series
The very nature of plywood makes it difficult to use a router. Small bites/multiple passes to get to (or close to) finished depth. Direction of the cut, use the back side (1 to 6 O'clock) of the bit to make the feathered end cuts. Sand or plane to the finished depth. Penetrating epoxy to stabilize the pointy end before cutting. The last bit is rough on tools, but thought I would throw it out there. I have never scarfed plywood so, with a grain of salt. 😉 Small bites and direction of cut should do the job.
I was silly to start at the shoulder and not the end. The ply would have backed itself up if I'd gone that way.
@@FreeRangeLiving Congrats by the way. Keep her honest and NEVER buy her cutlery. 🤪😇
V groove the problem area at your 6:1 or 12:1 and bandaid it with glass. Like you would a thru-hull, do both sides if it'll make your subconscious happy. :)
Cut from the bottom to the top.
So the wood on top of the slope will hold the lip.
Surely initial top cut is necessary to avoid tear into shreds the top line of the slope.
Bingo. That is the resolution
The scarfs not too bad. I'd sand down 1 layer of the ply (about 1mm) with the belt sander 90mm each side of the scarf and lay in one layer of 400gsm across the ply and fill over it with a trowel and filler when it had set off. I cant remember how thick the ply is but both sides could be done if your worried and its a pretty quick fix.
Did all mine with hand planer and sanding block found it quite enjoyable and they all came out perfect, the plywood gets very delicate at the feathered edges you found out.Once you glass that and epoxy I think it will still be wrong enough. Enjoy mate.
Aren't fibreglass boats made out of fibreglass and epoxy only. I don't see the problem, what am I missing.
This is a ply and epoxy boat, with some glass where reinforcement is needed. Solid fibreglass boats usually involve a mould of some sort. We're skipping that.
we learn from our mistakes..chin up buddy
Not everything goes to plan. Recovery is just as important as getting it right. Sometimes you learn more and hone your approach and technique.
You've probably already finished the scarf joint but I would avoid taking that huge gulp of wood as the final cut. I would reduce the cut depth into 4 passes along the joint. It will reduce the chances of tearout a lot.
I just reversed the order, cutting from the edge to the shoulder. It was silly of me going the other way
While redoing is nicer, I've seen quite a few videos testing epoxy it's usually the wood that fails not the epoxy, so you probably could've lived with it!
To err is human.. To forgive (yourself) is divine... 😅
A carpenter is a person who can fix their mistakes. You will overcome the problem with a better solution from what I have learned about you.
I have done a few scarf joints in my day, I would have sanded and filled, the epoxy is stronger than the ply anyway so strength isn't an issue. I get your reasoning and understand why so please don't see this as criticism just an alternative view.
You did miss 2 very common ply joint systems equally popular to the scarf joint in small boats the glassed over butt joint and the backing plate butt joint both very effective and in a framed boat like yours practical and safe. My last boat was butt blocked and I am putting that through some pretty hard work without issue. I like scarfing only really because it feels a bit more traditional and is easier to make invisible it is the hardest to get into a perfect flat plan though.
My next boat is designed as glassed over Butt joint however I am considering going with scarf joint as it is a large stitch and tape boat I feel if I put the extra effort into a good scarf then I will get a fairer curve on the wider panels. In that light I really appreciate the tutorial on the jig I will be doing that rather than my usual hand plane.
The backing plate butt joint is actually specified for the planking, once the frames are laid up in the plans. I still will probably scarf it though, now the Jig is ironed out.
What brand are those overalls?
S..t happens. The easiest fix is to use a power planer to cut a1 mm trench-across the sheet over the affected area.. Epoxy liberally alnd lay a strip of fibreglass to size in the trench. Fill with thickened epoxy and compress with baking paper and a straight stud and weights. This will give you equivalent strength and be invisible under paint.
Where can we buy one of your Charcuterie boards?
Alert to other subscribers, even with the bell clicked to subscribe to all videos, you may not be alerted when they post videos. I've been a subscriber for years. I'm not sure what's up with RUclips. 🤷♂️
I'm looking forward to your wedding. ❤
Thanks for sharing.
RUclips is fucked (and getting worse), that's the problem. Comments not appearing, advanced search no longer exist, displaying videos you've already watched, "related videos " that aren't, recommended videos you didn't ask for, the same videos appearing after ignoring them for a week..... it's never ending.
I'm at a loss as to why Apple, Microsoft, X, or any other big te h company hasn't created their own version of RUclips. I know there's millions of people out there that would love to see a competitor.
I had the same issue, i just finished the whole lot of farm videos as my last one i was alerted to was the announcement of the property.
I have my subscriptions page bookmarked at the top of screen. I only use that to navigate youtube. Sometimes a notification can take up to a few weeks but I always see the vid thumbnail on the day of upload.
I would just router out a 100 x 2mm trough and lay up some glass into that, cover and fill that scarf.
🙌👌
Why would you use an angled joint over a square half lap joint? Just asking.
Have a great day
Smoother transfer of stress with a scarf rather than lapping it. Greater surface area by a little but that's not so important with modern epoxy.
Good failure, or is it. Those few fibers missing means diddly squat , the overall strength of the joint. The epoxy used to join the panels are far stronger than the missing fibers in your scarf. if you are worried, just put another layer of glass over it. I have done many scarfs, and I have found that the best way to keep your feather edge, is to use double sided tape (carpet tape) at the edge of the plank and stick it down. Note that some designers state that just butt join the ply's and tape over both sides of the joint, never a fan! All my scarfs are done at 8 - 1!
8:1 scarfs- a traditionalist!
Mate shit happens, scarf two sheets at once,set second sheet back 72 mm and bobs your uncle,even put another sacrificial piece of board underneath, being sure to keep it flat . Cheers.
I should have done them simultaneously. I do like that way of cutting anything. Good point.
I would have used a solid wood not plywood it was always going the breakup and with laminated wood if water gets into the layers you can look at replacing the floor on a regular basis.
It’s alright mate. We are our own worst critics sometimes. You have fat in your ply length. And if you find you need to do it again after a second time just think of it as practice. Plus if it all gets to short you could always add another piece to the other end making it 3 pieces in total with 2 scarfs. It’s just wood remember it can have bit added.
A triangular finger joint would have been easier, straight and just as strong. Ask me how I know.
How you know?
@@FreeRangeLiving I have built many stress skin structures. Now days a jigsaw joint is used from a CNC machine, but before then a triangle finger joint. For a long narrow components, yes the scarf joint is the way to go.
I think hand cutting finger joins over such a broad panel is pretty intimidating for me. I guess I could come up with a Jig if I had to. I've done them on little drawers before, but they were square fingers.
I saw this builder join 2 sheets of plywood and was intrigued by it, ruclips.net/video/_gT4gpY-L1U/видео.htmlfeature=shared. I was thinking a template with a repeating pattern and using the plies as the steps might work. I know this is very late but wanted to share with you and others.
Nothing worse than building something, and there's a hidden fault you've made that no one can see and it always comes to mind like a guilty secret ...
Wish everyone showed real life rather then faking it as it's imposable to live up to. Thanks.
Getting a tad boring mate 👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎👎
Got 330 subscribers one day 1. People must like boring.
I like the variety I get some people aren't into some aspects but to others its all good, personally I am a hobby boatbuilder with a new (to me) lifestyle block so get a little something from every video. Even though I don't have an interest in pigs or goats its still interesting.