Yesterday, I was knocking the pistons in on my Flathead Ford 239. I knew to put fuel line over the studs but of course I neglected that. Torquing up my rod caps and then I hit #5 and it felt odd when I'd turn the crank. I took the cap off and sure as anything I'd dinged the crankshaft with a rod stud. I put a nice gouge right around the inside of my con rod bearing. I felt like I could puke. The block, main caps, crank, and flywheel are fresh out of the machine shop. Everything else is either new or in very good shape. I'm into this thing for about $3700 USD. After the panic died down I thought about a small file to just hit the high spot but "Nah that can't be right.". I saw this video just an hour ago. I went down with points file in hand and gently worked at the dent for a few minutes until I could barely feel anything. I put the two halves of the bearing back in with assembly lube but rod and cap halves swapped so it was riding on a clean surface. That would tell me if I did it or not. I torqued the cap down and turned the crank one revolution. It was like magic. My crank, feels awesome. I pulled the cap, cleaned and inspected the bearing. No damage. Not even a scuff. I was able to order just one rod bearing yesterday but this truly saved my ass. Thank you.
The title says backyard. I see some stupid comments below from people who obviously didn't watch the video. As the man said, if you have the time and money take it to a machine shop. What you're missing are the effects of hydrodynamics. In an ideal engine or any rotating machinery for that matter meant to ride on an oil wedge, metal to metal contact should never happen. The low spot would be fine since it's a nick no wider than a 32nd of an inch. Considering the circumference of the journal, that's definitely less than half a degree's width and in my opinion based on facts and not my ego, it would probably last a good while. Great video.
its a nice fix for when you remove the wheelbearing from a hub and you damage the hub where the bearing would normally sit. If you just file it down so the new bearing can go over it then that smal dent under it wont really matter.
805ROADKING I had a ol Hercules engine on a generator at a remote site that had issues when I started at my current job. They said they did like 2-3 head gaskets in about 8 yrs. I did it once when I started , almost 10 yrs ago at this point. The block deck looked like it was milled by dragging it on the road 😂😂😂 Some careful file work and it was smooth enough to stop chewing up head gaskets. I'm surprised it's lasted this long, watch I jinxed it and they will call next week😁
Just wanna say thanks for the great videos, I aswell as all of your subscribers appreciate the time u put into them! You remind me of an older version of myself hahah
I have a rusty 1911 handgun looks just like that crank shaft, how did you remove the rust. Wondering if i could use the same method? Awsome learning video, very educational
Nice. I have a V-6 crankshaft in the bottom of a Nissan 3.3L VG33E long block, from my 1998 Pathfinder, 166,000 miles. Very clean and owned by an elderly couple since new. Oil pan is off. Block is sitting on its top in a tire giving me access to crank. It is a spare motor. It was having rod and/or main bearing knock. I found shavings in oil and filter. It had been oil starved from previous owner, due to a leak they didn't notice. First I had moonlighting mechanic try to refresh bearings. Nothing changed. I'm not sure he did it well. I had it pulled out and replaced with used motor. I want to restore the crank, flush motor with cheap vegetable oil and then diesel and put it back in. Any suggestions? My first time doing any motor block repair. Thanks!
Sounds like the engine needs to be taken apart for inspection, cleaning and repair, to get an idea of the damage maybe try using plastigauge to measure bearing clearances.
So while I was changing my rear main seal I touched the crank with a punch. It has just a small burr in it. I reassembled and the rear main leaks worse than ever. I'm eager to try this out and see if I can make it useable again. You may have saved me a lot of headache.
Just to update, it seems like it did work for me. My engine is leaking from every seal except the rear main now lol. I'll be tearing it apart for a rebuild this summer anyway.
I can't lie I thought you were going to use the flat 'Beatin end' of the punch and then finish it up with the Emory cloth. And then you talked about using the file on other stuff and I thought 'Dummy, you just did that today to get that lawn mower rim on the axle'
very soft crank.. like a 70s low compression american. Did not know asian did that to any of their little engines. great tips. I run a little 3 main boxer, the 40 pound flywheel sings heading into winter like a wet finger on a crystal glass edge. I had no clue they made any little engine soft at all...my own attracts the damndest things being forged.
Anyone got a idea about if to use a crank that had a main bearing failure. The motor is a Gen 3 Ls 5.3 LM7. The bearing had a piece of metal that let a indentation and core marks. It's probably the size of a airgun bb or slightly smaller. Well the crank has part of this scoring on the Journal. Was wondering if anyone had a idea about what I could do or if I'm just down a crank. Thank you very much for the video.
Rule # 1 when using a file or hacksaw: These tools only cut in one direction. Why do people try to cut metal on the back stroke causing wear or damage?
If you are stuck out in the boonies somewhere and you need to get back this might work. I can't believe anyone would think this or the other "wrap sandpaper around bearing surfaces regrind" will run for any length of time. Good reason to never buy a used engine that was home rebuilt unless you know who did the work.
yeah file lightly till ya get er did not perfect but if yer in a pinch best thing to do is cover the bolts so the wife kick ya out of the shop ? what did ya do to get sent to the rhubarb
but yer in Canada so its all the back yard HA HA HA i miss being up there someday ill go back up loved BC and Alberta well not Edmonton so much but Calgary was fun
Yesterday, I was knocking the pistons in on my Flathead Ford 239. I knew to put fuel line over the studs but of course I neglected that. Torquing up my rod caps and then I hit #5 and it felt odd when I'd turn the crank. I took the cap off and sure as anything I'd dinged the crankshaft with a rod stud. I put a nice gouge right around the inside of my con rod bearing. I felt like I could puke. The block, main caps, crank, and flywheel are fresh out of the machine shop. Everything else is either new or in very good shape. I'm into this thing for about $3700 USD. After the panic died down I thought about a small file to just hit the high spot but "Nah that can't be right.". I saw this video just an hour ago. I went down with points file in hand and gently worked at the dent for a few minutes until I could barely feel anything. I put the two halves of the bearing back in with assembly lube but rod and cap halves swapped so it was riding on a clean surface. That would tell me if I did it or not. I torqued the cap down and turned the crank one revolution. It was like magic. My crank, feels awesome. I pulled the cap, cleaned and inspected the bearing. No damage. Not even a scuff. I was able to order just one rod bearing yesterday but this truly saved my ass. Thank you.
The title says backyard. I see some stupid comments below from people who obviously didn't watch the video. As the man said, if you have the time and money take it to a machine shop. What you're missing are the effects of hydrodynamics. In an ideal engine or any rotating machinery for that matter meant to ride on an oil wedge, metal to metal contact should never happen. The low spot would be fine since it's a nick no wider than a 32nd of an inch. Considering the circumference of the journal, that's definitely less than half a degree's width and in my opinion based on facts and not my ego, it would probably last a good while. Great video.
Old school knowledge that'll come in handy one day.
its a nice fix for when you remove the wheelbearing from a hub and you damage the hub where the bearing would normally sit. If you just file it down so the new bearing can go over it then that smal dent under it wont really matter.
The file is your friend!! I've fixed many cranks with one!! especially with all the crap I work on!!☺
805ROADKING
I had a ol Hercules engine on a generator at a remote site that had issues when I started at my current job.
They said they did like 2-3 head gaskets in about 8 yrs.
I did it once when I started , almost 10 yrs ago at this point.
The block deck looked like it was milled by dragging it on the road 😂😂😂
Some careful file work and it was smooth enough to stop chewing up head gaskets. I'm surprised it's lasted this long, watch I jinxed it and they will call next week😁
Just wanna say thanks for the great videos, I aswell as all of your subscribers appreciate the time u put into them! You remind me of an older version of myself hahah
Good one ! And I usually put weld on those tiny holes and polish after ... just like new .
Your a wise gentleman! Thank you for good tips!
I have a rusty 1911 handgun looks just like that crank shaft, how did you remove the rust. Wondering if i could use the same method? Awsome learning video, very educational
You turned the caps in the right direction even though that piston goes nowhere :)
I chose a cold chisel but you didn't have one of those to choose from...lol..Good vid buddy.
Nice. I have a V-6 crankshaft in the bottom of a Nissan 3.3L VG33E long block, from my 1998 Pathfinder, 166,000 miles. Very clean and owned by an elderly couple since new. Oil pan is off. Block is sitting on its top in a tire giving me access to crank. It is a spare motor. It was having rod and/or main bearing knock. I found shavings in oil and filter. It had been oil starved from previous owner, due to a leak they didn't notice. First I had moonlighting mechanic try to refresh bearings. Nothing changed. I'm not sure he did it well. I had it pulled out and replaced with used motor. I want to restore the crank, flush motor with cheap vegetable oil and then diesel and put it back in. Any suggestions? My first time doing any motor block repair. Thanks!
Sounds like the engine needs to be taken apart for inspection, cleaning and repair, to get an idea of the damage maybe try using plastigauge to measure bearing clearances.
thank you
So while I was changing my rear main seal I touched the crank with a punch. It has just a small burr in it. I reassembled and the rear main leaks worse than ever. I'm eager to try this out and see if I can make it useable again. You may have saved me a lot of headache.
Did it work?
Did it work? I’m about to try this technique
Just to update, it seems like it did work for me. My engine is leaking from every seal except the rear main now lol. I'll be tearing it apart for a rebuild this summer anyway.
I can't lie I thought you were going to use the flat 'Beatin end' of the punch and then finish it up with the Emory cloth. And then you talked about using the file on other stuff and I thought 'Dummy, you just did that today to get that lawn mower rim on the axle'
very soft crank.. like a 70s low compression american. Did not know asian did that to any of their little engines. great tips. I run a little 3 main boxer, the 40 pound flywheel sings heading into winter like a wet finger on a crystal glass edge. I had no clue they made any little engine soft at all...my own attracts the damndest things being forged.
Another useful tip, thanks
Only use single cut file and a small fine one too with no dents.
What if the flange where the rear main seal goes has a scratch can this be done as well
Anyone got a idea about if to use a crank that had a main bearing failure. The motor is a Gen 3 Ls 5.3 LM7. The bearing had a piece of metal that let a indentation and core marks. It's probably the size of a airgun bb or slightly smaller. Well the crank has part of this scoring on the Journal. Was wondering if anyone had a idea about what I could do or if I'm just down a crank. Thank you very much for the video.
Good content. I personally think your file is on the course side though.
Where is the long travel suspension build at.... really miss it
stick of dynamite be best for that ol fucken thing
Congratulation! you're that one guy that completely missed the whole point of the video.
File and cloth?
very nice tip
I'm quite sure I wanna buy this crank...
would you have to use a different size bearing? after sanding journal
Doesn't matter. It's not going to run long.
Rule # 1 when using a file or hacksaw: These tools only cut in one direction.
Why do people try to cut metal on the back stroke causing wear or damage?
I
Nice video, but one observation. Files are not bi-directional. Machinist 101: Don't drag the file backwards on the return stroke. Dulls the file.
Machine files are bi-directional
Dude i need a toyota truck!!!
WHATS UR NAME BROTHER?..THIS IS THE FAMOUS RAPHAEL....MOSTLY KNOWN AS RAPH...THE GUY IS REALLY RAPH..
Nice vid
Cool
I would use a sandblaster...
does a polished crankshaft make turnover faster?
What ???
you have to respect the specifications,,,, fuzz direction ,etc...
No it is of little mechanical advantage . It would not increase efficiency and discernable amount.
Cut two 4 to 6 inch long pieces of used green garden water hose, push them onto the rod bolts before pulling them and or before re-inserting them.
cool
use an extra crunchie cheezie (very abrasive you know)
JB Weld !
falls out......
hammer
If you are stuck out in the boonies somewhere and you need to get back this might work. I can't believe anyone would think this or the other "wrap sandpaper around bearing surfaces regrind" will run for any length of time. Good reason to never buy a used engine that was home rebuilt unless you know who did the work.
use the file
Good I D Err
yeah file lightly till ya get er did not perfect but if yer in a pinch best thing to do is cover the bolts
so the wife kick ya out of the shop ? what did ya do to get sent to the rhubarb
I figure if I want to call the video backyard repair then I might as well be in the backyard
but yer in Canada so its all the back yard HA HA HA i miss being up there someday ill go back up loved BC and Alberta well not Edmonton so much but Calgary was fun
Never drag a file across the surface backward, dummy...