My analysis of bargain nozzles vs. name brand in terms of replacement and cost. For print quality, I can't tell the difference. The trick is to find a supplier that doesn't suck. Please like and subscribe: tinyurl.com/y42f4ydp for more 3D Print Farm Tips, Tricks, Reviews, Repairs, and Business-Related content!
I must have watched all of your video's 3 or 4 times now, and after watching this video the first time I did I have a "slap my forhead and say Dohhhh!" moment. Although my print farm is tiny in comparison, 6 printers at present I have spent long periods of time trying to "save" a nozzle, I then watched your video and did a search for 20 - 30 nozzles and found yes, cheaper than I am paying at present and the quality just the same. So now the blocked nozzle's go into the recycling bin and the printer back online, I have also started a monthly maintenance for each printer rather than only when they fail.
You need a proper nozzle, a proper hotend and extruder For nozzle the only thing you should look out is the cone inside the bore, it should be 60 degree, not 120, like most cheap ones With 120 you'll have shit tons of clogs no matter what you do With the hotend you need something what's not prone to heatcreep, like mosquito and it's clones, those can do miracles And the extruder, with that you need a lot of torque, and to grab the filament both sides, like BMG and it's clones, it'll help a lot in pushing possible blockages out it it has one And an extra i use personally is a filament cleaner, a sponge basically where the filament goes through it, cleaning the filament from dust and other particles With these you can forget clogs entirely, the last time I had a clog was a year maybe before I changed the hotend from V6 to mosquito clone, after that i just push the big green button, and leave the machine, sometimes for day or more
I looked at those new hotends, and I'll have to pass. My E3Ds and nozzles have been performing really well, and I've maintained a 5-star rating for quality on all of my sites. Keep in mind, I don't want to have exoctic GCODE for 500 products on different machine types, in addition to different hotend types. So if I want to swap to a different hotend, it has to go on 80 machines. That get expensive in terms of time and cost, and the improvement has to be justified. In this case, it is not.
@@3DPrintedDebris haha yes. Did you check out bambu. Almost everything is closed source in it but seems to work like magic (mostly) throwing every printer out of the park
Have you tried a plated copper nozzle? They all claim they are super hard and good, but with the stress you put on them you can make a way better statement than any advertising ever will.
I have, and those are the worst (IMO). They clog just as easily as the brass nozzles, and cost even more. I'm not a fan of the higher specific heat value either; they take longer to come to temperature, and tend to add a delayed component to temp regulation when in use. When it comes to 3D printing, you want a low specific heat value. For abrasives, I just toss the brass nozzles (I print a lot of glow PLA and Colorfabb XT CF-20) once they start to open up as the nozzles can be treated as consumables at this price point. The steel/ruby/whatever nozzles, in my opinion, are just gimmicks designed to relieve you of your hard earned pay.
I also use E3D genuine nozzle (just made a 100€ order 30 minutes before viewing your video). Do you see any quality difference between high and low price nozzle?
What kind of filament do you print with? Unless you're printing with extremely abrasive filaments, I can't understand why you would need to change your nozzles as often as you claim in this video. It doesn't make any sense to me. I printed PLA 24/7 for 7 months and got perfect prints every time with the same brass nozzle.
I'm sure part of it is environmental for my operation. The desert is not kind when it comes to dust and silt and I'm right in the middle of it, on a dirt road to boot. I have noticed doped PLAs (eSun PLA+, Silks, etc) form a sticky and tacky goo that eventually clogs nozzles and gums up hotends. At 100KG/month, there's also manufacturer pollution (I found a ball bearing once) that clogs nozzles.
@@3DPrintedDebris 100kg/month? That's quite an operation! I only have 2 printers going 24/7. We're not at all printing on the same scale. At the moment, I only use mine for prototyping. You're absolutely right. Filament manufacturers use additives to alter the properties of their filaments, and that might add to the sticky goo problem, but I think you nailed it when you said that it's likely environmental. The desert is said to be hot during the day and cold at night. The contrasting temperature range in which your printers must operate must have been a temperature management nightmare when you started doing this. I live in Canada. It's either hot or it's cold for several months at a time. Not at all the same environmental temperatures. Thanks for answering. I now have a better grasp of the situation.
to be honest, i expected a better insight than that. Its no secret that you can save on everything any day when you buy stuff made with forced labour and stolen intellectual property
I believe the nozzle dimensions for E3D and Microswiss are open source, so not stolen IP. Re: labor, I hear you. I'm fighting it every day trying to run a biz in the USA with USA labor and materials.
@@3DPrintedDebrisIP theft is just standard practice in China, i was not talking about nozzles or other printer parts in particular. So i was looking for more info on nozzles before i go full Pokemon on them. Do you have experience with the high flow ones and do you change them for different layer heights (dif. diameter) ? I do mountain bike and photography, i am painfully aware how susceptible i am to gear acquisition syndrome. I need to know if im falling into a trap !
I stick to the .4mm nozzles. I have other sizes, but I've found standardization is key for GCODE compatibility. I have to slice for size variant, and machine family. The last thing I want is yet another set of 1,000 GCODE files to account for nozzle diameter as another variable.
@@3DPrintedDebris i haven't thought about the gcode files. I know some slicers have a command line interface and you can have conditional gcode. I wonder i that could help in some way
My analysis of bargain nozzles vs. name brand in terms of replacement and cost. For print quality, I can't tell the difference. The trick is to find a supplier that doesn't suck.
Please like and subscribe: tinyurl.com/y42f4ydp
for more 3D Print Farm Tips, Tricks, Reviews, Repairs, and Business-Related content!
I must have watched all of your video's 3 or 4 times now, and after watching this video the first time I did I have a "slap my forhead and say Dohhhh!" moment. Although my print farm is tiny in comparison, 6 printers at present I have spent long periods of time trying to "save" a nozzle, I then watched your video and did a search for 20 - 30 nozzles and found yes, cheaper than I am paying at present and the quality just the same. So now the blocked nozzle's go into the recycling bin and the printer back online, I have also started a monthly maintenance for each printer rather than only when they fail.
Yep. I doesn't make sense trying to save them now that there are so many quality and budget alternatives.
I don't understand why you only have 2k subscribers. This is content I don't see anywhere else. This is useful content.
Now channel, I just started in November.
Thank you sir for the great content! I would love to hear your thoughts on filament brands and what type of filament you prefer.
Great suggestion!
Agreed. I'd love to hear your take on filament brands, materials, etc.
You need a proper nozzle, a proper hotend and extruder
For nozzle the only thing you should look out is the cone inside the bore, it should be 60 degree, not 120, like most cheap ones
With 120 you'll have shit tons of clogs no matter what you do
With the hotend you need something what's not prone to heatcreep, like mosquito and it's clones, those can do miracles
And the extruder, with that you need a lot of torque, and to grab the filament both sides, like BMG and it's clones, it'll help a lot in pushing possible blockages out it it has one
And an extra i use personally is a filament cleaner, a sponge basically where the filament goes through it, cleaning the filament from dust and other particles
With these you can forget clogs entirely, the last time I had a clog was a year maybe before I changed the hotend from V6 to mosquito clone, after that i just push the big green button, and leave the machine, sometimes for day or more
I looked at those new hotends, and I'll have to pass. My E3Ds and nozzles have been performing really well, and I've maintained a 5-star rating for quality on all of my sites. Keep in mind, I don't want to have exoctic GCODE for 500 products on different machine types, in addition to different hotend types. So if I want to swap to a different hotend, it has to go on 80 machines. That get expensive in terms of time and cost, and the improvement has to be justified. In this case, it is not.
Wow. This is valuable
Yep! And now the manufacturers are switching to proprietary nozzles (cough cough Revo).
@@3DPrintedDebris haha yes. Did you check out bambu. Almost everything is closed source in it but seems to work like magic (mostly) throwing every printer out of the park
Have you tried a plated copper nozzle?
They all claim they are super hard and good, but with the stress you put on them you can make a way better statement than any advertising ever will.
I might just for the sake of evaluating it. I've been doing so well for so long with the budget brass the results would need to be extraordinary.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Have you tried harden steel ones?
I have, and those are the worst (IMO). They clog just as easily as the brass nozzles, and cost even more. I'm not a fan of the higher specific heat value either; they take longer to come to temperature, and tend to add a delayed component to temp regulation when in use. When it comes to 3D printing, you want a low specific heat value. For abrasives, I just toss the brass nozzles (I print a lot of glow PLA and Colorfabb XT CF-20) once they start to open up as the nozzles can be treated as consumables at this price point. The steel/ruby/whatever nozzles, in my opinion, are just gimmicks designed to relieve you of your hard earned pay.
I also use E3D genuine nozzle (just made a 100€ order 30 minutes before viewing your video).
Do you see any quality difference between high and low price nozzle?
None at all. I ran a study a couple of years ago (side by side, a few different suppliers) and EXCELFU nozzles won out for quality and price.
What kind of filament do you print with? Unless you're printing with extremely abrasive filaments, I can't understand why you would need to change your nozzles as often as you claim in this video. It doesn't make any sense to me. I printed PLA 24/7 for 7 months and got perfect prints every time with the same brass nozzle.
I'm sure part of it is environmental for my operation. The desert is not kind when it comes to dust and silt and I'm right in the middle of it, on a dirt road to boot.
I have noticed doped PLAs (eSun PLA+, Silks, etc) form a sticky and tacky goo that eventually clogs nozzles and gums up hotends. At 100KG/month, there's also manufacturer pollution (I found a ball bearing once) that clogs nozzles.
@@3DPrintedDebris 100kg/month? That's quite an operation! I only have 2 printers going 24/7. We're not at all printing on the same scale. At the moment, I only use mine for prototyping. You're absolutely right. Filament manufacturers use additives to alter the properties of their filaments, and that might add to the sticky goo problem, but I think you nailed it when you said that it's likely environmental. The desert is said to be hot during the day and cold at night. The contrasting temperature range in which your printers must operate must have been a temperature management nightmare when you started doing this. I live in Canada. It's either hot or it's cold for several months at a time. Not at all the same environmental temperatures. Thanks for answering. I now have a better grasp of the situation.
to be honest, i expected a better insight than that. Its no secret that you can save on everything any day when you buy stuff made with forced labour and stolen intellectual property
I believe the nozzle dimensions for E3D and Microswiss are open source, so not stolen IP. Re: labor, I hear you. I'm fighting it every day trying to run a biz in the USA with USA labor and materials.
@@3DPrintedDebrisIP theft is just standard practice in China, i was not talking about nozzles or other printer parts in particular.
So i was looking for more info on nozzles before i go full Pokemon on them. Do you have experience with the high flow ones and do you change them for different layer heights (dif. diameter) ?
I do mountain bike and photography, i am painfully aware how susceptible i am to gear acquisition syndrome. I need to know if im falling into a trap !
I stick to the .4mm nozzles. I have other sizes, but I've found standardization is key for GCODE compatibility. I have to slice for size variant, and machine family. The last thing I want is yet another set of 1,000 GCODE files to account for nozzle diameter as another variable.
@@3DPrintedDebris i haven't thought about the gcode files. I know some slicers have a command line interface and you can have conditional gcode. I wonder i that could help in some way