ULR Phosphorus Checker is the most valuable purchase I ever made on my tank... It confirmed without a doubt that my algae scrubber worked on my system... Phosphates were consistently in the .03 -.039 range with no other media besides the scrubber. Ill never run another reef without it one. great video!
i dont know so far im not so very happy with mine i dont think its giving me the correct reading plus i can retest the same water 3 times and it will give me three different readings.
This whole time I've been plugging my ULN phosphorus result to an online converter and been having wrong readings.. thank you for this video now I know the correct conversion.
I noticed that the Phosphorus ULR checker states Marine, whereas the Phosphate one doesn't. Checking the web it appears that the Phosphate unit can be used to test both Marine and Freshwater, versus the Phosphorus unit which is Marine only. For those of us that have Freshwater tanks as well, we might be happy to accept the lower resolution of the Phosphate unit so we don't have to buy two of them. I'd also like to comment that I've been testing with Hanna Checkers for several years now and always a) use the same vial for zeroing as I do for testing b) always orient the vial in the same direction, by placing the 10ml towards the front and c) store my vials with some RO/DI in them which I find prevents any water spots forming on the inside of the vial. All of the mentioned points allow me a greater degree of accuracy and repeatability when testing. As always BRS, a great job!
Thanks for this video guys! I was actually looking into why my Hanna Phosphate checker might be broken since it always gives me a reading of 0.00 but this explains why. I think I'll have to consider purchasing the phosphorous checker for my low nutrient system. Thumbs up!
So, after watching this Vid, it got me interested in my phosphorus level in my tank was. I run GFO and Carbon, and probably change them more often than I should, but don't test so I had no idea. I have learned from watching your videos that details are important like what you talked about here. Making sure vials are clean, shaking the same and the proper duration.......so I have really stepped up my game in this area, and trying to get digital checkers for everything I can (still wish they had a nitrate one...hint, hint, hint). I borrowed the PPM checker from a local reefer and tested and got 0 so I ordered the URL checker.....but there is one thing that I just cant understand.........why would they have you shake the vial for 2 minutes, but the checker times itself out and shuts off in 2 minutes. That to me just doesn't make sense. I guess I don't understand why they either said shake for 1.5 minutes or better, make the shut off longer. I notice that the reagent is so fine and really tough to get it all out if the package, so typically takes me a few extra seconds to make sure I get all the reagent out. The other reefer I talked to said that he uses 2 different vials one with just tank water, and the other with tank water with the reagent mixed in, but I really dont like that idea......seems like there would be more room for a misreading vs. shaking the vial a little shorter time. What do you guys do?
Correct! In this video they only tested one unit of phosphorus and one unit of phosphate. It showed that the phosphorus was more accurate, but what is the actual manufacturing variation from unit to unit.
You multiply the PPB reading by 3.066 and then “DIVIDE” by 1000. The video has a typo on the last step. Example 10 ppb. 10 x 3.066 = 30.66 30.66 / 1000 = 0.030 ppm
@@MASTERPPA more accurate than the old 713, slightly less accurate but easier to use than the 736. Personally I think the 774 is good enough for anyone but the most OCD aquarist.
Another important thing to remember is using the phosphate checker on your system that is currently consuming phosphates is going to be off. Some report is the reading on the phosphate checker could be off by half. Phosphorous isn't being consumed thus gives a accurate reading on a tank that currently is having an algae outbreak.
Can you help with the difference between these two products and the HI717 Phosphate HR checker? When would a hobbyist want to use the HR checker. I see you sell it on your site too. Please help. Thanks!!!
I usually use both glass vials filled exactly to the measurement line because the phosphorus meter automatically shuts off after 2 minutes. Trying to get all of the reagent into the vile is ridiculously hard. They should have a scoop in a bottle like Red Sea. Also, if there's a fingerprint or smudge on the vial, which way would it skew the results? Up or down?
I would love to see a comparison between the Zeovit Carbon and the BRS Premium ROX 0.8 carbon when run on a full zeo setup. I'm fully aware that there could be conflict of interest from the BRS side as well as KZ getting upset by the results, if it was determined that the ROX was as good for a cheaper price than the KZ carbon.
Ok you say you are starting a test on different methods of curing and cycling rock. While you are at it I would really like to see a test using cycling bacteria such as Bio-Spira comparing to other cycling methods
I just got the Phosphate ULR and I'm shocked at how high the Hanna was reading compared to the Salifert test I was using. I repeated the test several times. Each time the Hanna read several times higher than Salifert.
@@CrotalusHH oh wow i was just about to order salifert. I use api and it goes from 0 to 5.0 no in between... but if it isnt accurate. These tests look like a big pita I prefer liquid drops to opening packets and trying to get all of the power in. Do you know anything about red sea
Hey BRS, someone already pointed out that you divide by 1000 not multiply. Instead of doing two math problems you can simply multiply by .00307 to get to the same result. (38 x 3.066)/1000 = .12 (38 x .00307 = .12) This is even better when using a calculator
Things I’m still learning...This one slid under my radar somehow. I recently realized that I accidentally bought “Hanna Phosphate low range”(HI713) like the one shown in this vid. I’ve read that it isn’t certified for marine use and therefore not accurate. Hmm, likely why I’m constantly measuring 0.00 (?) Man, I’ve unknowingly been using the wrong one this whole time..thinking it was the ULR that everyone else is seen using. In hindsight I wish Hanna made the unit’s colors different to be even more clear. Crap, instead of buying more coral it seems I may first need to purchase the Hanna Phosphate ULR (H1774) that’s specifically for marine use. I’ll need to pay closure attention in the future hey! Cheers Ps I’m a bit surprised though that more recent testing videos don’t make this difference more apparent.
Love the BRS Investigates videos so far! I'd like to see the same kind of comparison between methods of measuring salinity/SG. How accurate are hydrometers, refractometers, and digital refractometers? Keep up the great videos.
I didn't see it pointed out anywhere Hanna's Ultra Low Phosphorus checker isn't really testing phosphorus but just phosphate like their other phospahte checkers. It might be more accurate at low levels of phospahte but it seems disingenuous to say "phosphorus" when it's not testing for dissolved organic phosphorus.
I can't wait two the finish the plumbing on my new tank I've had the tank for two years and was about to be thrown out instead of getting rid of it I took it back to the store I bought it from call Big Al's Aquarium services I told him the reason why I'm getting rid of it was because it was tempered glass they look up the model number and assured me that the sides weren't so I've been getting all the supplies and I'm happy that I'm finally going to be upgrading from my 29 gallon BioCube to a 75 gallon tank I need to buy a second kessil a160 true blue but that's not a big deal my major disappointment was when I went on the Bulk Reef supplies website was when I found out the pukani Rock was not able to be shipped to Canada I love the look of it and I can't find it anywhere but other than that really excited to be upgrading to a bigger tank I've been following BRS TVs in advice of putting unions on all my connections I think it has too much I used the Herbie overflow method and one return line and somehow it already has 18 unions put on to it LOL I think that's a bit much since it's only a 75 gallon tank LOL I love this Channel and I've been subscribed to it for a long time and was Furious when I found out the subscription box wasn't sending me notifications of the channels upload the notification Bell is really subscribing twice can't RUclips fix their stupid subscription box LOL
Very interesting on the Hanna vials responding well to being placed in the same way. I have never even considered. I use the Phosphate low range kit myself. While the phosphorus kit might have a little greater accuracy, at this stage of my tanks life (approximately 10 months) I cannot achieve low enough levels to benefit from the change in kits. (I hover around .2 regardless of feeding and GFO change frequency)
I like to do 3 readings with the same sample to get an average on my phosphates. It does swing as much as .06ish. For example I’ll get .02 - .01- .06. I’ll then log it as .03.
Hi Ryan - curious by any chance are you using Hanna’s ‘Phosphate LR’ ? Or their ‘Phosphate ULR’? I just learned that only ‘ULR’ (HI774) is certified as accurate for ‘Marine’ use. Man, I’ve unknowingly been using the wrong version for the past couple years. The things I’m still learning...lol.
I really hope you guys see this comment but in the video you say that to convert the ultra low range phosphorus to parts per million phosphate that you need to multiply the result by 3.066 then multiply that result by 1,000 and you actually need to multiply your original number by 3.066 and then divide by 1000 just a little miss hap but I'm sure that probably would throw some people off
U should have showed the type of powder each uses, the phosphate checker has the fine white powder that doesn't always come out, unlike the Hanna calcium granules, and I put a small sharpie mark on the top of the covet!!
Awesome video. I picked up the Phosphate checker a bit ago and kept getting readings of 0.00 and was pretty disappointed in the product but I guess it could be within it's range. I suppose now if I ever get a reading above 0 my phosphate levels are getting higher than I would like.
can you do a video on the magnesium and ammonia hanna testers in fresh water vs salt water? i heard you can use the fresh water testers on salt water. is this true?
Excellent video - I only wish you had done at least a couple of replicates for each measurement as one can otherwise easily draw incorrect conclusions about the accuracy AND: where did the “0 phosphates” sample go?? That obviously needs to be included! But otherwise a very useful video and important topic!
For a vast majority of the reefers out there, the Hanna Phosphate ULR checker is the right tool for the job. www.bulkreefsupply.com/phosphate-ppm-ultra-low-range-colorimeter-hi774-hanna-checker-marine-water.html
did you mean to say phosphorus? Because There was no math required in the video for the phosphate checker but just the phosphorus. Trying to keep 0.03 or close but seems like the phospate checker will read that low at 0 based on this youtube. I dont mind doing the math if its worth the trouble! Thats what calculators are for ..lol
Ted R. Ya after watching this video and rechecking the box .00366 has to be it. They checked it to the samples too. I didn't see the number in the box so no idea why I remember that. Probably got the number online somewhere
Mate, you are not using the reagent properly. I used to put the reagent in the tube like you and was never sure that I got all the reagent in the tube. You are doing it wrong. Read the instrucions please! the cut line for the scissors is along 2 sides not one, and is indicated with graphics on the sachet
0.00 ppm phosphate is undesirable if you're keeping corals. Generally speaking, we want to see some detectable level of phosphates but no more than 0.1 ppm. So 0.01 ppm to 0.1 ppm is usually a good spot.
Unbelievable all this headache just to test how much phosphate in your tank they need to make one checker this is ridiculous with all of these Checkers for checking the same thing just my opinion
99% of reefers will just own one of these checkers. The Phosphate ULR is the checker of choice for a vast majority of those reefers. www.bulkreefsupply.com/phosphate-ppm-ultra-low-range-colorimeter-hi774-hanna-checker-marine-water.html
ULR Phosphorus Checker is the most valuable purchase I ever made on my tank... It confirmed without a doubt that my algae scrubber worked on my system... Phosphates were consistently in the .03 -.039 range with no other media besides the scrubber. Ill never run another reef without it one. great video!
i dont know so far im not so very happy with mine i dont think its giving me the correct reading plus i can retest the same water 3 times and it will give me three different readings.
Storing the vials in RO/DI water between uses has help me a lot to keep them clear.
This is what I do for cuvettes that I use for colorimetric tests as a molecular biologist in the and it works excellently.
This whole time I've been plugging my ULN phosphorus result to an online converter and been having wrong readings.. thank you for this video now I know the correct conversion.
I noticed that the Phosphorus ULR checker states Marine, whereas the Phosphate one doesn't. Checking the web it appears that the Phosphate unit can be used to test both Marine and Freshwater, versus the Phosphorus unit which is Marine only. For those of us that have Freshwater tanks as well, we might be happy to accept the lower resolution of the Phosphate unit so we don't have to buy two of them. I'd also like to comment that I've been testing with Hanna Checkers for several years now and always a) use the same vial for zeroing as I do for testing b) always orient the vial in the same direction, by placing the 10ml towards the front and c) store my vials with some RO/DI in them which I find prevents any water spots forming on the inside of the vial. All of the mentioned points allow me a greater degree of accuracy and repeatability when testing. As always BRS, a great job!
Thanks for this video guys! I was actually looking into why my Hanna Phosphate checker might be broken since it always gives me a reading of 0.00 but this explains why. I think I'll have to consider purchasing the phosphorous checker for my low nutrient system. Thumbs up!
When you record a reading from the Phosphorus ULR with the Apex, it automatically calculates it for you to ppm!
So, after watching this Vid, it got me interested in my phosphorus level in my tank was. I run GFO and Carbon, and probably change them more often than I should, but don't test so I had no idea. I have learned from watching your videos that details are important like what you talked about here. Making sure vials are clean, shaking the same and the proper duration.......so I have really stepped up my game in this area, and trying to get digital checkers for everything I can (still wish they had a nitrate one...hint, hint, hint). I borrowed the PPM checker from a local reefer and tested and got 0 so I ordered the URL checker.....but there is one thing that I just cant understand.........why would they have you shake the vial for 2 minutes, but the checker times itself out and shuts off in 2 minutes. That to me just doesn't make sense. I guess I don't understand why they either said shake for 1.5 minutes or better, make the shut off longer. I notice that the reagent is so fine and really tough to get it all out if the package, so typically takes me a few extra seconds to make sure I get all the reagent out. The other reefer I talked to said that he uses 2 different vials one with just tank water, and the other with tank water with the reagent mixed in, but I really dont like that idea......seems like there would be more room for a misreading vs. shaking the vial a little shorter time. What do you guys do?
could you test maybe 3-4 units of Hanna phosphorus testers....to show if all results are the same or are there discrepancies between units???
Correct! In this video they only tested one unit of phosphorus and one unit of phosphate. It showed that the phosphorus was more accurate, but what is the actual manufacturing variation from unit to unit.
You multiply the PPB reading by 3.066 and then “DIVIDE” by 1000. The video has a typo on the last step.
Example 10 ppb.
10 x 3.066 = 30.66
30.66 / 1000 = 0.030 ppm
Thanks for the clarification been scratching my head for the last 10 minutes
@@stripe14631 haha. No problem. 👍🏼🙂
I I was literally just making that comment I was like wow I bet that's very misleading for people that are new and don't understand
Worth noting the Hanna HI-774 has now replaced both of these two kits (effectively)
is the HI-774 more accurate than the older one?
@@MASTERPPA more accurate than the old 713, slightly less accurate but easier to use than the 736. Personally I think the 774 is good enough for anyone but the most OCD aquarist.
Another important thing to remember is using the phosphate checker on your system that is currently consuming phosphates is going to be off. Some report is the reading on the phosphate checker could be off by half. Phosphorous isn't being consumed thus gives a accurate reading on a tank that currently is having an algae outbreak.
Can you help with the difference between these two products and the HI717 Phosphate HR checker? When would a hobbyist want to use the HR checker. I see you sell it on your site too. Please help. Thanks!!!
Great job and it looks like I will be picking up a new checker.
What a great video and very informative.Keep it up BRStv!
Great video.... Looking forward to your salt vs acid video. A lot of variables to account for there... including what gets dissolved!
I usually use both glass vials filled exactly to the measurement line because the phosphorus meter automatically shuts off after 2 minutes. Trying to get all of the reagent into the vile is ridiculously hard. They should have a scoop in a bottle like Red Sea.
Also, if there's a fingerprint or smudge on the vial, which way would it skew the results? Up or down?
another great one! Thanks brs!
I would love to see a comparison between the Zeovit Carbon and the BRS Premium ROX 0.8 carbon when run on a full zeo setup. I'm fully aware that there could be conflict of interest from the BRS side as well as KZ getting upset by the results, if it was determined that the ROX was as good for a cheaper price than the KZ carbon.
Correction. ppm=(ppb x 3.066)/1,000 No worries, mistakes happen. Another well done video!
Thank You. I was panicking and confused at how I could have 83,000 ppm phosphate
It would be great if they can correct the video
Great video!
Hello, is there a tester that checks all kind of phosphates and not only orthophosphates?
How do you get montiporas to make a spiral shape?
No clue
hi hope you can help me do you no how much RO water to dilute the phoshorus checker when its over 200 ppb thank you
I have the phosphate ulr and the test say 37 it that's good or not I'm confused of the regular
Ok you say you are starting a test on different methods of curing and cycling rock. While you are at it I would really like to see a test using cycling bacteria such as Bio-Spira comparing to other cycling methods
Please do this against the popular tests, like Red Sea, Salifert, Jbl, etc.!
I just got the Phosphate ULR and I'm shocked at how high the Hanna was reading compared to the Salifert test I was using. I repeated the test several times. Each time the Hanna read several times higher than Salifert.
@@CrotalusHH oh wow i was just about to order salifert. I use api and it goes from 0 to 5.0 no in between... but if it isnt accurate. These tests look like a big pita I prefer liquid drops to opening packets and trying to get all of the power in. Do you know anything about red sea
Great Video as always! Just wondering how much the higher end checker that you used to compare to the Hanna cost? Do you sell them?
BulkReefSupplyCom Thanks for the info. I suspected that might be the case. Maybe someday! For now Hanna is the right fit. Thanks again!!
Trevor Adams Ryan called it “hawk” tester. But I don’t see his answer. Do they sell it ?
Hey BRS, someone already pointed out that you divide by 1000 not multiply. Instead of doing two math problems you can simply multiply by .00307 to get to the same result.
(38 x 3.066)/1000 = .12
(38 x .00307 = .12)
This is even better when using a calculator
I love them but I almost had a heart attack after multiplying by 1000. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
WOW! Why put people through steps that arent necessary?
Things I’m still learning...This one slid under my radar somehow. I recently realized that I accidentally bought “Hanna Phosphate low range”(HI713) like the one shown in this vid. I’ve read that it isn’t certified for marine use and therefore not accurate. Hmm, likely why I’m constantly measuring 0.00 (?)
Man, I’ve unknowingly been using the wrong one this whole time..thinking it was the ULR that everyone else is seen using.
In hindsight I wish Hanna made the unit’s colors different to be even more clear.
Crap, instead of buying more coral it seems I may first need to purchase the Hanna Phosphate ULR (H1774) that’s specifically for marine use.
I’ll need to pay closure attention in the future hey!
Cheers
Ps I’m a bit surprised though that more recent testing videos don’t make this difference more apparent.
What does the ULR display if you are over its range?
Love the BRS Investigates videos so far! I'd like to see the same kind of comparison between methods of measuring salinity/SG. How accurate are hydrometers, refractometers, and digital refractometers? Keep up the great videos.
I didn't see it pointed out anywhere Hanna's Ultra Low Phosphorus checker isn't really testing phosphorus but just phosphate like their other phospahte checkers. It might be more accurate at low levels of phospahte but it seems disingenuous to say "phosphorus" when it's not testing for dissolved organic phosphorus.
I can't wait two the finish the plumbing on my new tank I've had the tank for two years and was about to be thrown out instead of getting rid of it I took it back to the store I bought it from call Big Al's Aquarium services I told him the reason why I'm getting rid of it was because it was tempered glass they look up the model number and assured me that the sides weren't so I've been getting all the supplies and I'm happy that I'm finally going to be upgrading from my 29 gallon BioCube to a 75 gallon tank I need to buy a second kessil a160 true blue but that's not a big deal my major disappointment was when I went on the Bulk Reef supplies website was when I found out the pukani Rock was not able to be shipped to Canada I love the look of it and I can't find it anywhere but other than that really excited to be upgrading to a bigger tank I've been following BRS TVs in advice of putting unions on all my connections I think it has too much I used the Herbie overflow method and one return line and somehow it already has 18 unions put on to it LOL I think that's a bit much since it's only a 75 gallon tank LOL I love this Channel and I've been subscribed to it for a long time and was Furious when I found out the subscription box wasn't sending me notifications of the channels upload the notification Bell is really subscribing twice can't RUclips fix their stupid subscription box LOL
what's the different between HI ulr and high range phosphate reader?
How many gallons is the cube at the start of the video?
Very interesting on the Hanna vials responding well to being placed in the same way. I have never even considered. I use the Phosphate low range kit myself. While the phosphorus kit might have a little greater accuracy, at this stage of my tanks life (approximately 10 months) I cannot achieve low enough levels to benefit from the change in kits. (I hover around .2 regardless of feeding and GFO change frequency)
I like to do 3 readings with the same sample to get an average on my phosphates. It does swing as much as .06ish. For example I’ll get .02 - .01- .06. I’ll then log it as .03.
Hi Ryan - curious by any chance are you using Hanna’s ‘Phosphate LR’ ? Or their ‘Phosphate ULR’?
I just learned that only ‘ULR’ (HI774) is certified as accurate for ‘Marine’ use.
Man, I’ve unknowingly been using the wrong version for the past couple years. The things I’m still learning...lol.
I really hope you guys see this comment but in the video you say that to convert the ultra low range phosphorus to parts per million phosphate that you need to multiply the result by 3.066 then multiply that result by 1,000 and you actually need to multiply your original number by 3.066 and then divide by 1000 just a little miss hap but I'm sure that probably would throw some people off
U should have showed the type of powder each uses, the phosphate checker has the fine white powder that doesn't always come out, unlike the Hanna calcium granules, and I put a small sharpie mark on the top of the covet!!
Awesome video. I picked up the Phosphate checker a bit ago and kept getting readings of 0.00 and was pretty disappointed in the product but I guess it could be within it's range. I suppose now if I ever get a reading above 0 my phosphate levels are getting higher than I would like.
Thats a good way to look at it! So I guess you shot for zero but what if you really are 0 because 0 = dino,s
So would you say all other phosphate checkers are useless ?
can you do a video on the magnesium and ammonia hanna testers in fresh water vs salt water? i heard you can use the fresh water testers on salt water. is this true?
its the black/gray checker for magnesium hardness check it out. and thanks for letting me know about the ammonia checker before i bought it
Excellent video - I only wish you had done at least a couple of replicates for each measurement as one can otherwise easily draw incorrect conclusions about the accuracy AND: where did the “0 phosphates” sample go?? That obviously needs to be included! But otherwise a very useful video and important topic!
i come from uk so purchasing not possible and this why i love brs and my ulr even more now lol
which phosphate checker easy-to-use?
For a vast majority of the reefers out there, the Hanna Phosphate ULR checker is the right tool for the job.
www.bulkreefsupply.com/phosphate-ppm-ultra-low-range-colorimeter-hi774-hanna-checker-marine-water.html
ULR Phosphorus Checker is the best purchase you can make for low Phosphates reading
You don't need to do any math there are charts available online for that
The Apex has it built in! When you record a reading, it automatically calculates it for you.
Current hanna phosphate ulr checkers show results in ppm so no math is required. :-)
did you mean to say phosphorus? Because There was no math required in the video for the phosphate checker but just the phosphorus. Trying to keep 0.03 or close but seems like the phospate checker will read that low at 0 based on this youtube. I dont mind doing the math if its worth the trouble! Thats what calculators are for ..lol
@@karennation3580 What he said is right, there is the new HI774 Phosphate ULR Marine Checker.
They say to zero these out using unreacted water. Does this mean RODI water or saltwater from tank?
BulkReefSupplyCom ✌
Is 0.34 okay ?? To high or low ?
what about the Milwaukee Mi412? hows it compare?
i dont understand its accuracy rating
BRS, do you deliver to the UK?
Oh right I see. Well thank's for all your videos/info it's helped me out a lot!
The reagent is costly, if you are in aquaculture.
BRS, you divide by 1000 not multiply for the ULR Phosphorus Checker. Reading x 3.066 ÷ 1000.
What's up man
Hanna have a conversion table on google images,print it out and get it laminated and keep in the box ;-)
I thought I saw .0032 as a conversion within the box. A reef website said .0031 and now I see .00366 uhhh
Reading x 3.066 ÷ 1000.
Ted R. Ya after watching this video and rechecking the box .00366 has to be it. They checked it to the samples too. I didn't see the number in the box so no idea why I remember that. Probably got the number online somewhere
Good video guys! Does water temperature effect the readings?
Oh ok. I wasn't sure when testing if it would matter. Thanks for he help
The conversion should be multiply by 3.066 and divide result by 1000.
Divide by 1000 ?
Mate, you are not using the reagent properly. I used to put the reagent in the tube like you and was never sure that I got all the reagent in the tube. You are doing it wrong. Read the instrucions please!
the cut line for the scissors is along 2 sides not one, and is indicated with graphics on the sachet
The Local aquarium is pushing digital instruments and getting away from the API "Do every test-kits"
API is cheap for a reason.
Is it possible to use the testing water of a salifert vial and put the water in a Hanna checker any one ever tried it 😆
Can't say that we've tried that one!
After 5 years and additional knowledge....0 phosphate is a bad thing....correct?
0.00 ppm phosphate is undesirable if you're keeping corals. Generally speaking, we want to see some detectable level of phosphates but no more than 0.1 ppm. So 0.01 ppm to 0.1 ppm is usually a good spot.
I think your calculation from Phosphorus to Phosphate is wrong. It should be Phosphorus reading multiply by 3.066 then divide by 1000
Shit! I bought the wrong phosphate checker. 😪
Take My Money! :D
oh no wait. you guys still don´t ship to Europe..
Your ppb to ppm calculation is wrong. You divide by 1000... not multiply. You may want to correct the video.
Unbelievable all this headache just to test how much phosphate in your tank they need to make one checker this is ridiculous with all of these Checkers for checking the same thing just my opinion
99% of reefers will just own one of these checkers. The Phosphate ULR is the checker of choice for a vast majority of those reefers.
www.bulkreefsupply.com/phosphate-ppm-ultra-low-range-colorimeter-hi774-hanna-checker-marine-water.html
First
Ryan why are you yelling????
I actually like the way Ryan speaks - a bit louder, fast, but still understandable for us from outside of the US. Keep up the good work!
He might be a little deaf I don't know