As someone who has recently built and is currently cycling his first saltwater tank, I find your videos extremely valuable and educational. Thank you so much for putting this stuff out!
Dale & Associates just add a shit ton of carbon to your tank in a reactor. Or toss in a few shots of vodka, have a drink with your fish and enjoy the night.
You're doing the phosphate packet wrong. Cut along the dotted line and push the sealed edges in towards each other to create a pyramid/cuboid shape which creates a channel on the flat sides. This is what Hanna told me to do and it made it so much easier.
I am not sure it is wrong, I rather say people may have it own style different than officially recommended method. The way in this video may need more training and care. I think it is even important to remind folks that if see these powder color change (not pure white), then rather use another packet. However, within last two years, Hanna packs quality is better than before.
Those packets suck but I started cutting on 2 sides of the packet and then trying to fold diagonally. Hanna did a recent calcium video that shows it helped. Doesn't help their crappy Ca tester but the packets are easier now. :)
I actually don't like Hanna way. I usually tickle the bag to make sure powder fall down, then I cut the entire top off, that give me a better look to exam if powder is still in good condition, and then I still create a pyramid/cuboid shape awn Thomas described.
I appreciated the insight into your experiences with PO4. I would like to hear more explanation following your comment concerning 'over dosing' GFO'. What was your experience and how did your identify the excess GFO as the issue?
I know this is an older video, and i think ive asked this before..but where do you guys obtain your tanks?.love mb yhose large frag tanks!! Thanks.in advance Ken
So in an aquarium with high phosphate calcium could accumulate to high levels as well because the high levels of phosphate prevent corals from taking up calcium?
I bought NOPOX to carbon dose but what happened in my tank was high phosphates (0.25ppm) and undetectable nitrates (0ppm). I decided to buy some sosium nitrate and I used that ro raize my nitrates to 5ppm and then added the NOPOX. This slowly brought nitrate back down to 1-0ppm and phosphate fell to undetectable levels. I'm now adjusting the ammount of carbon I add to maintain nitrates at 3-1ppm and phosphates at a detectable level. My system volume is 112gallons, I run a skimmer and live rock. I also feed heavily.
I used NOPOX because it's easier to choose how much to dose by changing the ammount of liquid you add in a day as upposed to diling in a biopellet reactor. It's also cheaper in the short term and probably the long term too.
Wonderful and extremely informative video. I enjoy watching them and my soon to be wife does as well. And she's not into reefing. I do have a question for you. Is there a more "effective" macro algae that would be more suitable for removing PO4 . Example Cheatomorpha vs. "dragons breath " red macro algae . This would be in a refugium. Thanks
Simple, filtering macros like Chaeto are better used in a refugium, as they will grow more quickly, meaning nutrients bound more quickly, and more (phos) removed through more harvesting. The complex macros such as dragon’s breath are much prettier, but slower growing. Growing any algae in a separate location will help by outcompeting nuisance display algae, but the simple macros are definitely better at it. In fact, using a scrubber of gha can work even more quickly, as it is such a fast grower. A lot depends on the situation. A low nutrient tank, that just needs that little bit of extra help could benefit greatly by running dragon’s breath in a fuge. In A tank with higher bioload, dragon’s breath might not be enough. The key in a high bioload tank is giving the refugium algae MORE of the right type of light, so that it grows faster than any display algae would. Apologies for answering a question not directed at me. I look forward to tidal gardens response also. I just happened to be working on a video about the differences (as we speak), so I was excited to see it a topic people are interested in!
What's your opinion on aquaponic systems that can help with nutrient absorption / filtration / that can be used in place of chemical filtration and potentially reducing slightly the frequency of water changes? Or does that not impact the inorganic phosphate removal? (btw, once again you've got great videos that are high quality & informative per usual Than, thanks for making this one)
first, thanks for the awesome video. I really enjoy your great content (and corals 😀). do you have any experience with lanthanum chloride? comments on the use of it to precipitate po4?
I would've loved to hear what you guys at tidal gardens would consider "acceptable" levels for a reef... how little is too little? At what level do you start to see adverse effects in corals? Are the benefits of ULN systems outweighed by slowed growth as well?
Perfect explanation ... and thanks for dumbing things down as always... it's vids like these that are helping the hobby grow in a positive way 😁 thanks again for teaching us oh wise one 😂🤣
Can skimming, running a fuge, and chemipure all together be bad for the tank? That’s what I’m running on my bio cube 16 with LPS corals only I’m about four months in. I also run a 10% water change weekly is this overkill
I think there is such a thing as too clean. I don't like seeing zero phosphates and nitrates for example. Just test your water regularly if you are concerned.
I've had great success keeping down nitrates and phosphates with NoPoX from Red Sea, in my 50 gallon cube I dose 1ml a day which is basically nothing in conjunction with my Matrix in a reactor this keeps everything in check just fine. I do have to mention I also dose Seed and Remediation once a week as well. I'm not trying to deal with GFO or Biopellets anymore and definitely don't care to hassle with algae scrubbers.
My phosphate is .50.. I have a refugium and I am growing algae in my macro algae… it’s out of control. I do regular water changes weekly to keep it down but it is always higher than I want it to be… but I have no hair algae in my display so I’m happy…
I'm dosing small amounts of Phosphate RX weekly and it's easy, clean, and working. Phosphate is 0. I also added a Biopellet Reactor and Algae Scrubber. Might be overkill but after suffering a hair algae outbreak and scrubbing 90 lbs of rock, I'm not taking chances.
I started running my saltwater fish in September I'm thinking about adding corals in about 2 months, just tested my phosphates and i got a reading of 0.05 can someone tell me if thats good or bad.
What I want to know is how Dr Sanjay is able to run with 0.4 not 0.04 phosphates and have a beautiful thriving reef full of colorful stony corals... I also have a friend with the same "problem" and his corals look amazing
Also different checkers are measuring very different things. Inorganic phosphorus range is in parts per MILLION, marine phosphate is in parts per BILLION.
Well I running 0.45 po4 and no3 4.6 dkh 10 pH 8.37 at highest photo period my sps is booming birds nest out of control but everyone says 0.05ppm po4 but my levels stay 0.42 to 0.45 if I stop feeding for 7 days coral only tank it drops to 0.42 Iam using aquaforest np pro and probiotic s stopped using gfo 12 months ago but everything is booming so don't want add it again
Half of my SPS corals have died in 6 months. Since January my aquarium started to decrease in NO3 level. Now is at Zero and PO4 is Zero too. I don't know what to do.
My phosphate always reads zero yet I have Algae. Also running GFO with 20% weekly WC's, dosing kalkwasser and still Algae. I'm going to have to remove half my rock and scrub it with a brush a this point.
It is possible to read zero phosphate and still have an algae problem because the algae soaks it all up and grows so it never shows up on a test kit. If you physically remove the algae and keep up with it, it will help (or beef up the snail crew).
Yes that is what I have heard, The GHA is very manageable, what I have run into now is red turf, very hard and wiry. My internet readings say Mexican turbos and perhaps emerald crabs will help. However every emerald crab I have ever put in (3-4) has died after a while. The one rock that has it the worst has no corals so I'm thinking of taking a wire brush to it.
you're putting bandaids on the problem, get a reactor and fill it with some porous material like Matrix from seachem and dose things like Seed and Remediation once a week, this will get your biological filtration a boost and then you can dose something like nopox daily. This will eventually set you up for success but continue to suck out the GHA with WC's and be mindful of your feeding habits.
my test kit journey.... API-RED SEA- SALIFERT- HANNA CHECKER.... just save your money and time and get a hanna checker. in the end youll be saving money.
I'm glade I went the old school way of keeping my water in check by just doing large weekly water changes. no having to rely on high tech this or that to take care of my tank which in the end only causes more headaches. old water goes out, fresh clean water goes in.
ruclips.net/video/fkpBOi9yMTI/видео.htmlm54s This is because you are opening the package like a savage. Cut along the dotted line and the package neatly opens and you can easily dump all the contents into the vial.
1) it's not a display tank, it's clearly a coral flat 2) it's in a greenhouse, you know, the sort of place where spiders live and stuff 3) this is all quite apparent, as the tanks are sat on concrete blocks 4) have you only recently started to become a knob, or have you always been like this?
As someone who has recently built and is currently cycling his first saltwater tank, I find your videos extremely valuable and educational. Thank you so much for putting this stuff out!
Great video!!! Please make more on chemistry. Learned a few things from this video. 🎉❤❤
This was excellent! You answered about 4 different questions we had in one video! Thanks again!
8:50 - I love the polyps dancing to the music haha awesome
Always top notch content from your channel and the fact you're based 15 minutes from my house is just a added bonus!
Anxiously awaiting the video on carbon dosing.
Dale & Associates just add a shit ton of carbon to your tank in a reactor. Or toss in a few shots of vodka, have a drink with your fish and enjoy the night.
What is the pink coral at 9:00.
This is great! Just realized you're about 20 min away from my home!!!
@Tidal Gardens
What is that certain bacteria that removes nitrates and phosphates from the water via the skimmer?
what type of clam and plant in the last shot?
woundering if you could do a segment on algae scubbers for consuming phosphate
I thought it was high nitrates>.25ppm
that caused browning and that P04 helped with coloration at concentrations less than .25 ppm
You're doing the phosphate packet wrong. Cut along the dotted line and push the sealed edges in towards each other to create a pyramid/cuboid shape which creates a channel on the flat sides. This is what Hanna told me to do and it made it so much easier.
I am not sure it is wrong, I rather say people may have it own style different than officially recommended method. The way in this video may need more training and care. I think it is even important to remind folks that if see these powder color change (not pure white), then rather use another packet. However, within last two years, Hanna packs quality is better than before.
Those packets suck but I started cutting on 2 sides of the packet and then trying to fold diagonally. Hanna did a recent calcium video that shows it helped. Doesn't help their crappy Ca tester but the packets are easier now. :)
I actually don't like Hanna way. I usually tickle the bag to make sure powder fall down, then I cut the entire top off, that give me a better look to exam if powder is still in good condition, and then I still create a pyramid/cuboid shape awn Thomas described.
Thomas Gionet stfu Thomas
Do I know you?
I appreciated the insight into your experiences with PO4. I would like to hear more explanation following your comment concerning 'over dosing' GFO'. What was your experience and how did your identify the excess GFO as the issue?
I know this is an older video, and i think ive asked this before..but where do you guys obtain your tanks?.love mb yhose large frag tanks!!
Thanks.in advance
Ken
Does activated carbon or seachem purigen somehow help extracting phosphate from water ?
So in an aquarium with high phosphate calcium could accumulate to high levels as well because the high levels of phosphate prevent corals from taking up calcium?
Enjoyed the chemistry lesson!!! if this aquarium thing doesn't work out and you don't want practice law , you would be an excellent chemistry teacher.
I bought NOPOX to carbon dose but what happened in my tank was high phosphates (0.25ppm) and undetectable nitrates (0ppm). I decided to buy some sosium nitrate and I used that ro raize my nitrates to 5ppm and then added the NOPOX. This slowly brought nitrate back down to 1-0ppm and phosphate fell to undetectable levels. I'm now adjusting the ammount of carbon I add to maintain nitrates at 3-1ppm and phosphates at a detectable level.
My system volume is 112gallons, I run a skimmer and live rock. I also feed heavily.
I used NOPOX because it's easier to choose how much to dose by changing the ammount of liquid you add in a day as upposed to diling in a biopellet reactor. It's also cheaper in the short term and probably the long term too.
Wonderful and extremely informative video. I enjoy watching them and my soon to be wife does as well. And she's not into reefing. I do have a question for you. Is there a more "effective" macro algae that would be more suitable for removing PO4 . Example Cheatomorpha vs. "dragons breath " red macro algae . This would be in a refugium.
Thanks
Eric Alvarado I would like to know as well.
Simple, filtering macros like Chaeto are better used in a refugium, as they will grow more quickly, meaning nutrients bound more quickly, and more (phos) removed through more harvesting. The complex macros such as dragon’s breath are much prettier, but slower growing. Growing any algae in a separate location will help by outcompeting nuisance display algae, but the simple macros are definitely better at it. In fact, using a scrubber of gha can work even more quickly, as it is such a fast grower.
A lot depends on the situation. A low nutrient tank, that just needs that little bit of extra help could benefit greatly by running dragon’s breath in a fuge. In A tank with higher bioload, dragon’s breath might not be enough. The key in a high bioload tank is giving the refugium algae MORE of the right type of light, so that it grows faster than any display algae would.
Apologies for answering a question not directed at me. I look forward to tidal gardens response also. I just happened to be working on a video about the differences (as we speak), so I was excited to see it a topic people are interested in!
have the Hannah one but it’s ulr and says it’s 0.90. This bad than I’m new
Great video! I’m covered this in my macro video, but not as well (by far). May I link this video to my channel?
What's your opinion on aquaponic systems that can help with nutrient absorption / filtration / that can be used in place of chemical filtration and potentially reducing slightly the frequency of water changes? Or does that not impact the inorganic phosphate removal?
(btw, once again you've got great videos that are high quality & informative per usual Than, thanks for making this one)
Mark Nattier what kind of saltwater plants would you grow
What is the coral at 1:50?
Just what I was after thanks. Nice long tanks. A fan.
Than, what are your thoughts on low phosphate levels and dinoflagellate outbreaks?
first, thanks for the awesome video. I really enjoy your great content (and corals 😀). do you have any experience with lanthanum chloride? comments on the use of it to precipitate po4?
it's been a while since any videos!
and the intro coral is absolutely stunning! is it a riccordia mushroom?
Very informative gonna try out some stuff hinted in the video
I would've loved to hear what you guys at tidal gardens would consider "acceptable" levels for a reef... how little is too little? At what level do you start to see adverse effects in corals? Are the benefits of ULN systems outweighed by slowed growth as well?
We've had terrible results with ULN every time we've tried, but I've seen plenty of hobbyists with good success in their home tanks.
yay a reply
@@tidalgardens
I run Rowaphos in a reactor and just add Phyto Feast daily. It keeps my phosphate at 0.03 to 0.05 fairly consistently....
As always, another great video
Perfect explanation ... and thanks for dumbing things down as always... it's vids like these that are helping the hobby grow in a positive way 😁 thanks again for teaching us oh wise one 😂🤣
Paul Blaney stfu Paul
Paul Blaney nigga wtf get tf out
Abner Sanchez
Nigga?! Lmao now u a gansta huh hahahahahahahaha
Paul Blaney ohh so cause I say nigga that makes me black get tf out
what is the chemistry behind a phosphorus test
Can skimming, running a fuge, and chemipure all together be bad for the tank? That’s what I’m running on my bio cube 16 with LPS corals only I’m about four months in. I also run a 10% water change weekly is this overkill
I think there is such a thing as too clean. I don't like seeing zero phosphates and nitrates for example. Just test your water regularly if you are concerned.
9:00 - what coral is this? And.. you have so high phosphates, but no algae bloom? Someone eats your algae?
Very helpfull as always! Thank you and greets from Germany.
I've had great success keeping down nitrates and phosphates with NoPoX from Red Sea, in my 50 gallon cube I dose 1ml a day which is basically nothing in conjunction with my Matrix in a reactor this keeps everything in check just fine. I do have to mention I also dose Seed and Remediation once a week as well. I'm not trying to deal with GFO or Biopellets anymore and definitely don't care to hassle with algae scrubbers.
impatiently waiting for the carbon dosing video :D
Use a perfume funnel for the Hanna regents.
Reefahholic like it :)
Appreciate this video
Excellent video!
Another quality video Than, thank you.
How do you manage your phosphates in your facilities? I mean, GFO would get pretty expensive haha
My phosphate is .50.. I have a refugium and I am growing algae in my macro algae… it’s out of control. I do regular water changes weekly to keep it down but it is always higher than I want it to be… but I have no hair algae in my display so I’m happy…
What do you think about Phosphate Rx ? I know Some people swear it's the best. ?
I'm dosing small amounts of Phosphate RX weekly and it's easy, clean, and working. Phosphate is 0. I also added a Biopellet Reactor and Algae Scrubber. Might be overkill but after suffering a hair algae outbreak and scrubbing 90 lbs of rock, I'm not taking chances.
Fun fact, in our tanks it's HPO4 not PO4. The pH would have to be at around 12 for PO4 to be present.
but some tanks have high phosphate but no algae and coral thriving better when were in low phosphate.
Love the tunes
I started running my saltwater fish in September I'm thinking about adding corals in about 2 months, just tested my phosphates and i got a reading of 0.05 can someone tell me if thats good or bad.
Thats really good, ocean water level
What I want to know is how Dr Sanjay is able to run with 0.4 not 0.04 phosphates and have a beautiful thriving reef full of colorful stony corals... I also have a friend with the same "problem" and his corals look amazing
My highest tank is 0.8. YMMV.
Also different checkers are measuring very different things. Inorganic phosphorus range is in parts per MILLION, marine phosphate is in parts per BILLION.
Well I running 0.45 po4 and no3 4.6 dkh 10 pH 8.37 at highest photo period my sps is booming birds nest out of control but everyone says 0.05ppm po4 but my levels stay 0.42 to 0.45 if I stop feeding for 7 days coral only tank it drops to 0.42 Iam using aquaforest np pro and probiotic s stopped using gfo 12 months ago but everything is booming so don't want add it again
do you have a degree in a science? You're pretty accurate with the chemistry.
Half of my SPS corals have died in 6 months. Since January my aquarium started to decrease in NO3 level. Now is at Zero and PO4 is Zero too. I don't know what to do.
I think zero of both is a trouble spot. You could be starving everything out.
My phosphate always reads zero yet I have Algae. Also running GFO with 20% weekly WC's, dosing kalkwasser and still Algae.
I'm going to have to remove half my rock and scrub it with a brush a this point.
It is possible to read zero phosphate and still have an algae problem because the algae soaks it all up and grows so it never shows up on a test kit. If you physically remove the algae and keep up with it, it will help (or beef up the snail crew).
Yes that is what I have heard, The GHA is very manageable, what I have run into now is red turf, very hard and wiry. My internet readings say Mexican turbos and perhaps emerald crabs will help. However every emerald crab I have ever put in (3-4) has died after a while.
The one rock that has it the worst has no corals so I'm thinking of taking a wire brush to it.
you're putting bandaids on the problem, get a reactor and fill it with some porous material like Matrix from seachem and dose things like Seed and Remediation once a week, this will get your biological filtration a boost and then you can dose something like nopox daily. This will eventually set you up for success but continue to suck out the GHA with WC's and be mindful of your feeding habits.
dose fluconazol 20mg per gallon see thread on Reef2reef community
AMAZING VIDEO ONCE AGAIN MR T !!!!!!!!!!! Thank you for making it
Awesome video Than 😊
my test kit journey.... API-RED SEA- SALIFERT- HANNA CHECKER.... just save your money and time and get a hanna checker. in the end youll be saving money.
I'm glade I went the old school way of keeping my water in check by just doing large weekly water changes. no having to rely on high tech this or that to take care of my tank which in the end only causes more headaches. old water goes out, fresh clean water goes in.
“Of the seawater in the ocean” ???
You are a reefer, you must use Hanna ULR Colorimeter for testing-IF YOU ARE TESTING. :)
My phosphates are over 1! Taking action ! We believe a plant I removed dump toxins for me 😢
not entirely correct. Algae is Redfield ratio disbalance you can get bad algae even with low PO4 or NO3
what is phosphate?😅😅😅
i love y
ruclips.net/video/fkpBOi9yMTI/видео.htmlm54s This is because you are opening the package like a savage. Cut along the dotted line and the package neatly opens and you can easily dump all the contents into the vial.
Hi to all sea water is 0.003
too much hi-hat not enough voice lol
I guess we're supposed to just look at the giant display tank and not notice the spider webs under it...
1) it's not a display tank, it's clearly a coral flat
2) it's in a greenhouse, you know, the sort of place where spiders live and stuff
3) this is all quite apparent, as the tanks are sat on concrete blocks
4) have you only recently started to become a knob, or have you always been like this?
@@chosenjacob4604 🤣🤣
I still don't know what IT FUCKING IS