Comparing Hanna Phosphate vs Phosphorus ULR Marine Testers
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- The question comes to us a lot as to why we check for phosphorus vs phosphate and we thought we would try to make a simple video as to why. Unfortunately its a little hard to explain and comes down to accuracy and function and thought process. Here we compare and show you how to use the two different tests we use...a basic review/comparison.
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You didn't run those tests right there is your finger prints all over those bottles you should of wiped them off before you start running your tests
I've just tried Hanna phoshate test kit I got 0.00ppm. I am trying this test kit because I can never get colour match on Red Sea and D&d po4 test kits. But they both show po4 in my system..
But this checker is show 0.00ppm.. ??
You are probably correct in assuming you still have phosphate in the system but if its not free in the water column then the hanna phosphate tester might miss it, the ultra phosphorous one might detect it better.
the phosphorus test shows 57. you said in the video that it equals .057 which is not the same as the formula you have listed on screen. according to the formula and the general consensus, it should be multiplied by 3.07 and then divided by 1000, which gives you .175 which is almost 6 time the difference. what's more to the point is that accordiong to the phosphate checker .03 and even with the + or - .04 difference gives you an alright reading. the .175 reading after the conversion with the phosphorus checker gives you a sky high reading. what are your thoughts? because I am really interested in purchasing one of these in the next couple of days. please respond with your thoughts, as I am sure this has been either pointed out to you or you have figured out the mistake, and hence given it some thought...
you are correct if you want to convert phosphorus over to phosphate you can multiple my 0.057ppm number by 3.07 and you get phosphate the ultra checkers is reading 0.175ppm. That is the more accurate and yes higher. Again proves the 0.03ppm (+ the 0.04 machine variance might make it 0.07ppm) but still not as hi as the other test is detecting. The value you get on the one phosphate checker is just not enough (to Low), it misses too much by like 6 times. I have given out the conversion a few times to clients so I added in screen note to show it better to make the adjustment it is hard vid to correct at this point, thanks=) You dont want to miss detection of phosphorus in a tank for it becomes phosphate. The Phosphate checker just misses too much readings are too low, if you use the checkers and do little math the ULR Phosphorus one will be more detective to whats in your reef potentially, thanks
@@RMSpeltzFarmvery interesting test. What’s your recommendation for a freshwater test? Will these checkers still work on freshwater?
Everyone using a Hanna checker should know two things that this video and most others fail to tell you.
First, make sure that you wipe the cuvette with a cloth before zeroing the checker and after you add the reagent to make sure you have no fingerprints on the glass. When mixing the reagent I like to hold by the cap so I am not touching the glass.
Second, make sure the lid is closed when zeroing and at the end of the countdown.
If you do not do this your test results will be wildly inaccurate
Don't just convert ppb to ppm, convert phosphorus to phosphate by multiplying by 3.066 first. 57 ppb phosphorus is 0.157 ppm phosphate.
You are correct if you want to convert phosphorus over to phosphate you can multiple my 0.057ppm number by 3.07 and you get phosphate the ultra checkersis reading. That is the more accurate method and again proves the 0.03ppm, value you get on the one phosphate checker is just not enough, it misses to much. I have given out the conversion a few times to clients so I added in screen note to show it better to make the adjustment, thanks=)
Great video/ very informative. It's exactly what I was looking for and answer to the varying results between the two testers and what they really test for. I was getting higher phosphorus then phosphate before carbon dosing. I stopped testing for phosphorus and only tested for phosphate and my corals started having issues. Since I have been carbon dosing my tank, my phosphorus (tester) (not phosphate) bottoms out to zero ( I didn't realize it before, when i first started dosing). If I add live phytoplankton my phosphate tester value seems to go down. I didnt understand the difference between these tester until I saw this, so thank you (I thought I was going crazy and I couldn't find a answer on the web until I found this video).
Are both reagent packets just the same thing? Sodium disulphate
Are you doing those tests on a pair of Marine dress blue pants?
Good thing I just bought the newer one which is the phosphate ULR.
Great info on the difference between the checkers. I don't think I have ever heard a detailed explanation of the difference.
Thats a WHOPPER of a difference.
I use the ulr phosphorus and get 0 ppb every time. I don't even know how that's possible.
You’re putting out inaccurate information. Phosphates are not present at the equal ppb (parts per billion) of phosphorus, so you don’t just divide ppb by ppm (parts per million). All you’re doing is converting the phosphorus reading from ppb to ppm, but the phosphate levels are not being read. First you must figure out level phosphates are present with the phosphorus reading you’re getting, once you’ve figured that out you need to convert the accuracy of the results from ppb to ppm and apply to that number then you’ll find that a 57 ppb phosphorus reading is equivalent to a phosphate level 0.175 ppm not 0.057 like what you came out with. Also you’re not whipping off your finger prints from the vials before testing it and the results you’re getting may not be so accurate because the checker is picking up the cleanliness of the sample and any smudges on the glass are being interpreted by the reader as water quality.
You need to take down any misinformation you have on the internet, especially ones offering solutions and guidance because allot of people only rely on these kind of research in order to learn things and you are only making them fail.
This test kit gives different results every single time
Yes if you got a reading on 33 on your ULR you are correct that it is in parts per billion phosphorus which then is .03ppm. Which then you could say is pretty low on phosphorus and hence phosphate, nice comment thanks
What is a good level for phosphorous?
Good comment, I also make sure to always rinse the vials out when done with RO DI water for any residual left in them can make errors the next time also, thanks for the help, its always hard to get every detail in every video.
Thanks I was trying to help out a few people that have asked me which tests I use and why.
That value of 0.03ppm is fine as long as no algae is growing in your system=)
Hi I have a new tank I just measured the phosphours using the checker I got a reading of 39 is this ok? I am not trimming any phosphate media yet. Thanks in advance
This is useful to estimate phosphorus in a leaf of grass plant, soil, and livestock feed samples?
Very well done clear concise video. No BS background music or noise …..Perfect
Am I multiplying the reading on ultra low range Phosphorus checker by 3.066 and dividing by 1000 or skipping the 3.066 step?
Thanks and Nice job helping out the Nyfamous reefer=)
Great video, very informative and easy to understand.
I'm starting my 75 gallon tank and this video is exactly what I'm looking for...Thanks!
Thanks but my po4 must be at good levels.. What do you think...
Can you use the ultra low one with the same checker..
Great explanation! Thanks for reviewing
An excellent lesson in chemistry. Thank you.
Good information Thanks
Sir phosphorus is the best in agriculture useing or phosphate.??
Phosphate is not generally plant available. If you say mine phosphate and add it to your soil. Realize though that especially in acid soils a reaction takes place which makes it available. Speed depending on particle size, pH, water, a host of things. Plants do things like secrete acids from their roots as well to make phosphorus available.
All that said, phosphorus is generally a relatively poor fertilizer.
When you get a phosphate fertilizer. That is either a natural form, or more commonly a product where a strong acid has already been used to convert the phosphate to a plant available form.
By law, when you see a number for the percentage analysis, the first three numbers are percentage equivalent of nitrogen, phosphate, and potash, N, P2O5, and K2O respectively. This is done because it is what is in a plant available or rapidly plant available form.
So if you took phosphate, it would have very low numbers because it is not plant available.
So from an efficiency or plant nutrition basis, phosphate beats phosphorus hands down.
Now some are purists who for other reasons would either say you don’t need it and mine their soil or add tons an acre of phosphate rock to let it slowly convert.
More frequently they turn to organic phosphate in manure.
Hope that catches your question. Throwing a judgement word like best out there with no explanation of what you mean leaves it wide open. What’s really best depends on what you want to do.
Great comparison, thanks.
Phosphorus best or phosphate?
Good info, thanks for the vid.
Very good review
so what is a good Phosphorus number to be at
Curtis Thigpen 0.01 to 0.03 we like
@@RMSpeltzFarm 0.01 to 0.03 ppb phosphorus, or 0.01 to 0.03 ppm phosphate? Or 3.3 to 9.8 ppb phosphorus?