I had exactly the same simptoms as you on my 996. No reading on the durametric. It was a big vacuum leak from the plenum after the throttle body. I somehow put it together not correctly. It was running exactly like yours. I reassembled the plenum correctly and everything was back to normal.
Exactly my thoughts. It happened to me when I upgraded to an IPD clone plenum and an 82mm TB. Left one of the plenum hoses kinked and sucking air. Had pretty much the same symptoms and codes.
Thank you Bricolage en Morvan you were 100% correct 🙌. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
I'm sure all it needs is a good old fashioned "Italian tune" 😁. Seriously though, it's more likely to be a vacuum leak or hose not properly seated. Another great video. I replaced the radiators on my 996.1 without the vacuum tool, it's not really a problem as long as you're prepared to take it slow and burp/fill at frequent intervals. Can't wait to see it having some proper revs once it's been run-in. Nice one Finn.
Hello Francesco, You were 100% correct, it was a vacuum leak 🤓. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Check the fuel trims. Make sure the bank1 and bank2 o2 sensors aren't swapped. I'm curious why the witness marks from the cam bolts didn't match their original positions.
Howdy Ken 🤠 Are you referring to the Bolts under the Cam cover? I suspect someone was in there before me, it's possible they used a different torque value or perhaps the bolts have stretched? Thank you for watching 🤘😎
The suspense is killing me! Is Man in a Garage series the greatest success story of a man conquering the elusive M96 engine of all time, or is it a tragic warning for no man to ever again attempt home repair of the many gremlins of the 996 engine? We will find out in 4 minutes, or will we?
My guess is that the inlet plenum is leaking, too many cooincidences would be needed to make it something else, think you did a good job on the cam timing so don't suspect that
Great videos! I have thoroughly enjoyed this series. I had a rough idle on my 997 after the mechanic installed the wrong spark plugs. May be as simple as that. Good luck!
Well the injectors have been remanufactured, new plugs, new coil packs, So i'm leaning towards major Vacuum Leak and the Plenum or throttle body would be my first look.
Hello SGT Tom Bailes, Like John I had not heard this either, can you reference where you got that information, is it in the Porsche manual? Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Since yours are new, the readings should be in spec. Someone mentioned a vacuum leak and that would be my guess too. With the engine idling you might try spraying some starter fluid on to various vacuum lines including the intake manifold sleeves. If the revs increase, you've found your leak!
You were 100% correct SIR!!! 🙌 You are like a wizard 🧙♂️ Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
I’d work through a list starting with the easy - plug in and look at the long term fuel trim, clean the maf, clean the injectors (if they’ve sat for a long time with old fuel, they could be restricting flow causing lean mixture), check for air leaks, make sure your plugs/coils are all plugged into the right cables, check the fuel pressure, check the timing.
Howdy OP CB 🤠 I really appreciate your help, it ended up being a vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs 🤓 Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
I'll add my "two cents" here. Typically misfire is caused either by an issue wit spark, fuel or compression. If we can assume that after rebuilding the engine compression is ok, that leaves us with spark and fuel. A small vacuum leak will not cause all cylinders to misfire but of course a major leak could cause that. However the MAF value is not that high as an optimal value is - if I remember correctly is 17 (+/-2). As it is higher than ~19 there is most likely a vacuum leak somewhere. There could be also a fuel issue after been sitting that long in the tiny garage :) Maybe a clogged fuel filter or problem with fuel pressure regulator. As Yogi said fuel pressure test could be a good idea. I think every 996 owner should own some kind of scanner because there can be underlying issues that can be only detected with a scanner. What's positive is that those are not that expensive but need to get a scanner with Porsche specific features. Durametric is excellent but some handheld scanners works as well - they may lack only user friendliness. Fox example Foxwell NT530 works fine (~150 USD/EUR) Why those are important - let's say you have a Nikasil coated cylinders and you for some reason are running rich - let's say there's an issue with injector. You can't detect that without a scanner if your FRA values are a bit high. Nikasil coated cylinders are durable but their achilles neel is fuel. If you are constantly running rich that will eventually cause again issues with cylinders (scoring etc). So with Nikasil cylinders you need to make sure that you are running optimal fuel trim values and that is only possible with a scanner.
Agree with you. As you said, a major a leak on the plenum or TB will cause all cylinders to randomly misfire, specially at idle and somewhat goes away at higher revs. Ask me how I know. lol
Thank you for the detailed reply Mika, The comments section got away from me for a little while there 😅 I'm just beginning to catch up. The issue was a vacuum leak from on of the intake cuffs. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Honestly it sounds as simple as a vacuum leak. Have you tried swapping the plugs or coils around? After that all checks out I’d check your fuel pressure.
Agree on the vacuum leak. Finn should check that before starting swapping coils and plugs around (I totally hate to do this on my car lol). I suspect that it should be a vacuum leak a squirt of carb cleaner around suspected areas should cause revs to increase. A safer way would be to use a smoke machine, or the unhealthy way with a contraption made of coolant hoses, rubber gloves and a big fat cigar, like I saw an old-timer mech doing once lol. Finn, do you smoke by any chance?
Those were the air con condensers you had your hand on; the radiators are behind them. I can imagine some heat will transfer through though. Best of luck and great to see the car out in the wild!
Gosh darn it 😂🤣 of course they are 🤯. Thank you for pointing out my error, that probably means the radiators were probably nice and warm. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Nice work. Wish I had the expertise to help. I have been watching all your videos and have truly enjoyed them. I purchased a Durametric in about 2006 when I had a 1999 996 Coupe that looked exactly like yours. I upgraded to a 2007 911 S in 2009 then to a new 981 Cayman S in 2014. Two years ago I purchased a 16 Cayman GT4 from a Porsche Club friend. I have used the Durametric on all of them and and Durametric was nice enough to erase my first three cars from my enthusiast version. I have done my own maintenance on all of the cars and am truly amazed by your undertaking. Well done!! I wish I had your skills.
I had something similar (rough idle) when working on my engine doing lots of overdue maintenance work etc. Ended up being a single incorrectly seated spark plug. Car ran fine but was actually running on 5 cylinders instead of 6 and was only really noticeable when idling. Maybe recheck the plugs and leads?
Hello Gray Family Folk 🙌, Whie it sounded like death it was only a simple vacuum leak, pilot error on reassembly 😅. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
You can tell if it's a (non-huge) vacuum leak by watching the short-term fuel trim as you increase the revs. At higher revs the leak should become insignificant and the trims should be at or close to normal.
Yes sir👍 It was a vacuum leak from the intake cuffs. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
You are having a coil or spark plug misfire please replace try again with the manufacturer recommended coil n plugs ... ruclips.net/video/Rkc0c2kwlzM/видео.html
I really appreciate the help 🙌 It ended up being a vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Check your O2 sensor readings they can tell allot about what is happening in the combustion chambers, if all cylinders are misfiring look for something wich affects all of them. Intake, tank vent, crankcase vent, throttle body, ... Check fuel trim values as well. RKAT, FRAU and FRAO can provide a clear insight into what is happening.
Your advice was spot on 🙌 At the time I did not have easy access to a Durametric to get the o2 or RKAT numbers. In the end it was Pilot error, I put one of the intake cuffs on poorly resulting in a vacuum leak. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
I'd start by reading the spark plugs, it will give all the info you need to know how your engine is running (rich, lean, spark timing, oil dilution .. etc), then I'll do a smoke test just to make sure I don't have any vacuum leak. Also I may do a leak-down test, it will give you all the info you need to know how well your cylinder head is doing. Good luck mate!
Fantastic Advice Groupwar NA 🙌, my apologies for taking so long to get back to you, the comments section got away from me 😅 The answer was "Vacuum Leak" (and Kelsey 🤓) ruclips.net/video/TbCcnGmcYqE/видео.html
Hi Finn, feel your anguish after all that hard work. Have a look at 996Dad, he had a rough running 996 after his rebuild. He narrowed it down to an air leak and bad injectors. Your injectors are good so i would watch his last video and give that a go. Especially if it’s affecting all the cylinders it has to be something that is affecting everything not just one random plug or injector. So it has to be timing or fuel or air. Good luck.
Hello William 🙌 It ended up being a vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs. I looked up the 997dad videos, he has not posted in a long time, I'm not sure what the outcome was for him. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Like I mentioned before, I had a bad vacuum leak (left one of the plenum hoses out of place) and it sounded exactly like that that somewhat went away with more revs. I had multiple misfires and pretty much the same codes on idle. The computer won't tell you a code for vacuum leaks specifically but a bunch of codes as a result of that. A squit with can of carb cleaner around the intake and vacuum hose connections will narrow the are of said leak if the revs go up. Always check the basics before assuming the worse. Great job so far Finn! There's no better way to learn and great feeling once you fix a problem.
when a car has a lean mixture fault using a thermal gun on the exhauxt manifolds you can see which cylinder is running lean, it will have higher temps, interesting video thanks for the fun content.
I eventually bought a Hague Camera Car Grip Suction Mount Finn. This made a massive difference. But switching to a Go Pro 8 or higher was the really trick. The image stabilisation if amazing!
Thank you Pig Monkey, That Hague unit is definitely a step up from what I have been using. This week I need to get a second camera, thank you for the Go Pro recommendation. So far the series has been shot on my personal iPhone, the driving scenes are going to need at least two cameras. Rock on Dude 🤘😎
If you have Durametric there's no short term fuel trim values available. Porsche DME has only RKAT and FRA values and both of those are long term. RKAT is long term fuel trim at near idle and then FRA is long term at operating RPM range. However both RKAT and FRA are a good indicators here. RKAT a bit slower to react to changes compared to "traditional" fuel trim values but it will react quite fast if you create a vacuum leak yourself. That's the theory - in practice back to Stacy(sp?) and please check those fuel trim values.
Hello, In this case the answer was a Vacuum leak ruclips.net/video/fBu6JMA6yoE/видео.html . Since this video I have got my hands on a Durametric, I might do a video on fuel trims depending on what I find. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Hello Mika, Thank you very much for for this detailed information. Since this video I was loaned a Durametric. I will refer back to your information when we revisit the Durametric. You rock 🤘😎
I have actually the same issue now on my 3.4. It has been sitting like a year. And now idle is the same. I havent done any mech work on it. It has just sitted. Lookind to see what is result. 👍🤓
Hello Valhalla it was a vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs 🤓. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Hi Finn, another great video, thanks. Sorry I can't help directly with the issue but have you seen Heidi and Franny's garage on RUclips? They have a similar problem after an engine rebuild. Episodes 29-32. I know it's an older car but maybe something in there that could help. Anyway, good luck, Stewart
That was good advice Stewart, I love Heidi & Fanny's garage 🙌 It ended up being a vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Hi Finn. Funny you should reply to this now. I just watched the video again to see if I can find any clues re my own engine running issues after rebuild. Had mine rebuilt by Hartech with 3.6 to 3.9 conversion. (Sent engine to them but installed myself). It runs lumpy above 4000rpm. Hartech say may need a remap. Either that or I've left some important tube dangling somewhere ;-) Good luck with yours. Looking forward the next video. Cheers, Stewart
@@stewartnunn8179 Obviously I’m not really qualified to comment on your engines issues. Just in case you have not tried it, that smoke test for vacuum leaks is awesome plus of course plugging it into a durametric. Good luck dude 🍀 please let me know what the answer is 🤓
Just an idea and very easy to try. It might be that your throttle body calibration is bad, that can happen if you start the engine too quickly after you had your battery and throttle disconnected. Fix would be to disconnect battery, then throttle and wait few minutes, connect throttle, then battery and then important step turn only ignition on for a good minute, this is when the throttle calibrates. Turn ignition off and now you should be good to go. This happened to me when I cleaned my Boxsters throttle the first time, symptoms were very similar.
Howdy Digi Lux, I had to look back at the video to see what you were talking about 🤣😂 That is probably the position the seat has been in since I purchased the car, that drive was so stressful I just didn't change anything, I just watched the dash gauges and drove 😳. The posistion has been adjusted, hopefully you will approve. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
This was again a very interesting video. I also have a Durametric. The difficulty is to interpret the values correctly and then to act. Unfortunately there are no guidelines for this. For example: The deviation of the camshaft position: I have measure that and then also the Porsche Center with my 996 with -5.04 at position 1 and 0 at position 2 Not even the Porsche Center had precise data on when the critical point was reached. The statement was: as long as there is no red message, everything is fine. I didn't get any response from Hartech either. What good is the diagnostic device if the numbers can be interpreted in any way you like. Or do you have more comprehensible information? I would be very interested in. Regards from Frankonia Lothar
Howdy Frankonia 🤠 At the time it seemed like the world was ending, as it turned out the probalemwas just a simple Vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Hello Mike, I have a strong suspicion that they are because I keep playing Russian Roulette with the Brake Vacuum Booster Line, this week is no exception. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage Well I suspect that may be the nature of your rough idle the outlet port that provides vacuum to brake boosters tends to be quite large and supplies a significant amount of vacuum, they also have a check valve to ensure vacuum goes only one way. given that it appears to smooth out at higher RPMs IT maybe 🤞source of your (Suspected leak). Just a hunch. Would start at the booster and follow it back to the engine vacuum source. Best of luck Cheers
Duuuuuuude! I watched your most recent Oil Change video on the Subaru, AMAZING stuff. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made... ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
![FendiDa Rappa - Clock Dat ft. Shamar Marco [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3NBU8KHdxYY/mqdefault.jpg)
Can't wait till NEXT WEEK? Watch it NOW 🤓 - ruclips.net/video/MN206c5W1T0/видео.html
I had exactly the same simptoms as you on my 996. No reading on the durametric. It was a big vacuum leak from the plenum after the throttle body. I somehow put it together not correctly. It was running exactly like yours. I reassembled the plenum correctly and everything was back to normal.
maybe he can get a sniffer up the tail pipes to see what the afr is? It might help confirm the airleak theory.
Vac leak is my vote too
Exactly my thoughts. It happened to me when I upgraded to an IPD clone plenum and an 82mm TB. Left one of the plenum hoses kinked and sucking air. Had pretty much the same symptoms and codes.
I’d bet a few dollars on vacuum leak
Thank you Bricolage en Morvan you were 100% correct 🙌. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
I'm sure all it needs is a good old fashioned "Italian tune" 😁. Seriously though, it's more likely to be a vacuum leak or hose not properly seated. Another great video. I replaced the radiators on my 996.1 without the vacuum tool, it's not really a problem as long as you're prepared to take it slow and burp/fill at frequent intervals. Can't wait to see it having some proper revs once it's been run-in. Nice one Finn.
Hello Francesco, You were 100% correct, it was a vacuum leak 🤓. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Check the fuel trims. Make sure the bank1 and bank2 o2 sensors aren't swapped. I'm curious why the witness marks from the cam bolts didn't match their original positions.
Howdy Ken 🤠 Are you referring to the Bolts under the Cam cover? I suspect someone was in there before me, it's possible they used a different torque value or perhaps the bolts have stretched? Thank you for watching 🤘😎
The suspense is killing me! Is Man in a Garage series the greatest success story of a man conquering the elusive M96 engine of all time, or is it a tragic warning for no man to ever again attempt home repair of the many gremlins of the 996 engine?
We will find out in 4 minutes, or will we?
😂🤣😂 now you’ve got me interested. 🤓
My guess is that the inlet plenum is leaking, too many cooincidences would be needed to make it something else, think you did a good job on the cam timing so don't suspect that
Great videos! I have thoroughly enjoyed this series. I had a rough idle on my 997 after the mechanic installed the wrong spark plugs. May be as simple as that. Good luck!
Well the injectors have been remanufactured, new plugs, new coil packs, So i'm leaning towards major Vacuum Leak and the Plenum or throttle body would be my first look.
Nailed it Mike! You are one of those magic people 🧙♂️. Thank you for your help 🤘😎
Always shift at 3500 rpm's to oil and save that IMS bearing. You should know that 1..
Never heard that one!
Hello SGT Tom Bailes, Like John I had not heard this either, can you reference where you got that information, is it in the Porsche manual? Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Cam deviations generally go out of spec due to wear of the chainguides
Since yours are new, the readings should be in spec. Someone mentioned a vacuum leak and that would be my guess too. With the engine idling you might try spraying some starter fluid on to various vacuum lines including the intake manifold sleeves. If the revs increase, you've found your leak!
You were 100% correct SIR!!! 🙌 You are like a wizard 🧙♂️ Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
I’d work through a list starting with the easy - plug in and look at the long term fuel trim, clean the maf, clean the injectors (if they’ve sat for a long time with old fuel, they could be restricting flow causing lean mixture), check for air leaks, make sure your plugs/coils are all plugged into the right cables, check the fuel pressure, check the timing.
Howdy OP CB 🤠 I really appreciate your help, it ended up being a vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs 🤓 Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
I'll add my "two cents" here. Typically misfire is caused either by an issue wit spark, fuel or compression. If we can assume that after rebuilding the engine compression is ok, that leaves us with spark and fuel. A small vacuum leak will not cause all cylinders to misfire but of course a major leak could cause that. However the MAF value is not that high as an optimal value is - if I remember correctly is 17 (+/-2). As it is higher than ~19 there is most likely a vacuum leak somewhere. There could be also a fuel issue after been sitting that long in the tiny garage :) Maybe a clogged fuel filter or problem with fuel pressure regulator. As Yogi said fuel pressure test could be a good idea.
I think every 996 owner should own some kind of scanner because there can be underlying issues that can be only detected with a scanner. What's positive is that those are not that expensive but need to get a scanner with Porsche specific features. Durametric is excellent but some handheld scanners works as well - they may lack only user friendliness. Fox example Foxwell NT530 works fine (~150 USD/EUR)
Why those are important - let's say you have a Nikasil coated cylinders and you for some reason are running rich - let's say there's an issue with injector. You can't detect that without a scanner if your FRA values are a bit high. Nikasil coated cylinders are durable but their achilles neel is fuel. If you are constantly running rich that will eventually cause again issues with cylinders (scoring etc). So with Nikasil cylinders you need to make sure that you are running optimal fuel trim values and that is only possible with a scanner.
Agree with you. As you said, a major a leak on the plenum or TB will cause all cylinders to randomly misfire, specially at idle and somewhat goes away at higher revs. Ask me how I know. lol
Thank you for the detailed reply Mika, The comments section got away from me for a little while there 😅 I'm just beginning to catch up. The issue was a vacuum leak from on of the intake cuffs. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
This is my guess too Finn. The plenum tubes to the throttle body not seated correctly.
You nailed it Dude 🙌
Honestly it sounds as simple as a vacuum leak. Have you tried swapping the plugs or coils around? After that all checks out I’d check your fuel pressure.
Thank you Yogi! Vacuum test is next on the list. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Agree on the vacuum leak. Finn should check that before starting swapping coils and plugs around (I totally hate to do this on my car lol). I suspect that it should be a vacuum leak a squirt of carb cleaner around suspected areas should cause revs to increase. A safer way would be to use a smoke machine, or the unhealthy way with a contraption made of coolant hoses, rubber gloves and a big fat cigar, like I saw an old-timer mech doing once lol. Finn, do you smoke by any chance?
Those were the air con condensers you had your hand on; the radiators are behind them. I can imagine some heat will transfer through though. Best of luck and great to see the car out in the wild!
Gosh darn it 😂🤣 of course they are 🤯. Thank you for pointing out my error, that probably means the radiators were probably nice and warm. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Seating position looks uncomfortable
Thats probably me! 🤷♂️
Nice work. Wish I had the expertise to help. I have been watching all your videos and have truly enjoyed them. I purchased a Durametric in about 2006 when I had a 1999 996 Coupe that looked exactly like yours. I upgraded to a 2007 911 S in 2009 then to a new 981 Cayman S in 2014. Two years ago I purchased a 16 Cayman GT4 from a Porsche Club friend. I have used the Durametric on all of them and and Durametric was nice enough to erase my first three cars from my enthusiast version. I have done my own maintenance on all of the cars and am truly amazed by your undertaking. Well done!! I wish I had your skills.
Thank you very much for watching Greg 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
I had something similar (rough idle) when working on my engine doing lots of overdue maintenance work etc. Ended up being a single incorrectly seated spark plug. Car ran fine but was actually running on 5 cylinders instead of 6 and was only really noticeable when idling. Maybe recheck the plugs and leads?
Howdy Grant 🤠 Thank you very much for the information. It turned out to be a Vacuum leak.
ruclips.net/video/fBu6JMA6yoE/видео.html
did you check your engine postioning switch
Hello, that’s a great question, can you tell me where the engine positioning switch is? Thank you for watching 🤘😎
The cars runs👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻the idle is to low…maybe the variocam solenoids
Hello Gray Family Folk 🙌, Whie it sounded like death it was only a simple vacuum leak, pilot error on reassembly 😅. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Excellent work my friend!! This will be something simple and end in success.
Thank you Sir! Hopefully your getting some miles on your Porsche this summer 🙌
From what I have seen I would check the routing of your vacuum pipes, make sure they are all in the correct places and with no splits or leaks.
Yes, the way it is working it sounds it may have a air leak as well
You can tell if it's a (non-huge) vacuum leak by watching the short-term fuel trim as you increase the revs. At higher revs the leak should become insignificant and the trims should be at or close to normal.
Yes sir👍 It was a vacuum leak from the intake cuffs. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
You are having a coil or spark plug misfire please replace try again with the manufacturer recommended coil n plugs ... ruclips.net/video/Rkc0c2kwlzM/видео.html
I really appreciate the help 🙌 It ended up being a vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
My previous comment is split in two. Please see the continuation in the replies. My tablet has a mind of it's own!
Hello to the other half 🙌
Check your O2 sensor readings they can tell allot about what is happening in the combustion chambers, if all cylinders are misfiring look for something wich affects all of them. Intake, tank vent, crankcase vent, throttle body, ... Check fuel trim values as well. RKAT, FRAU and FRAO can provide a clear insight into what is happening.
Your advice was spot on 🙌 At the time I did not have easy access to a Durametric to get the o2 or RKAT numbers. In the end it was Pilot error, I put one of the intake cuffs on poorly resulting in a vacuum leak. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
I'd start by reading the spark plugs, it will give all the info you need to know how your engine is running (rich, lean, spark timing, oil dilution .. etc), then I'll do a smoke test just to make sure I don't have any vacuum leak. Also I may do a leak-down test, it will give you all the info you need to know how well your cylinder head is doing. Good luck mate!
Fantastic Advice Groupwar NA 🙌, my apologies for taking so long to get back to you, the comments section got away from me 😅 The answer was "Vacuum Leak" (and Kelsey 🤓) ruclips.net/video/TbCcnGmcYqE/видео.html
I saw an orb at 35 seconds......
What! 😲 No flippin! way 🛸
Hi Finn, feel your anguish after all that hard work. Have a look at 996Dad, he had a rough running 996 after his rebuild. He narrowed it down to an air leak and bad injectors. Your injectors are good so i would watch his last video and give that a go. Especially if it’s affecting all the cylinders it has to be something that is affecting everything not just one random plug or injector. So it has to be timing or fuel or air. Good luck.
Hello William 🙌 It ended up being a vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs. I looked up the 997dad videos, he has not posted in a long time, I'm not sure what the outcome was for him. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Like I mentioned before, I had a bad vacuum leak (left one of the plenum hoses out of place) and it sounded exactly like that that somewhat went away with more revs. I had multiple misfires and pretty much the same codes on idle. The computer won't tell you a code for vacuum leaks specifically but a bunch of codes as a result of that. A squit with can of carb cleaner around the intake and vacuum hose connections will narrow the are of said leak if the revs go up. Always check the basics before assuming the worse. Great job so far Finn! There's no better way to learn and great feeling once you fix a problem.
Hello Fred, the squirting starter fluid around the engine bay was the magic for figuring this out, Thank you 🙌
when a car has a lean mixture fault using a thermal gun on the exhauxt manifolds you can see which cylinder is running lean, it will have higher temps, interesting video thanks for the fun content.
That’s a good one Billy Bob, thank you for sharing. Those guns are a great tool, so cheap $23 🤯 Thank you fir watching 🤘😎
I eventually bought a Hague Camera Car Grip Suction Mount Finn. This made a massive difference. But switching to a Go Pro 8 or higher was the really trick. The image stabilisation if amazing!
Thank you Pig Monkey, That Hague unit is definitely a step up from what I have been using. This week I need to get a second camera, thank you for the Go Pro recommendation. So far the series has been shot on my personal iPhone, the driving scenes are going to need at least two cameras. Rock on Dude 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage looking forward to seeing the footage 👊
One step closer.
She is on the ROAD!!!!!! 🤘😎
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Have you by any chance noticed or checked for what Long fuel and Short fuel trim values were for bank 1 and bank 2?
If you have Durametric there's no short term fuel trim values available. Porsche DME has only RKAT and FRA values and both of those are long term. RKAT is long term fuel trim at near idle and then FRA is long term at operating RPM range. However both RKAT and FRA are a good indicators here. RKAT a bit slower to react to changes compared to "traditional" fuel trim values but it will react quite fast if you create a vacuum leak yourself. That's the theory - in practice back to Stacy(sp?) and please check those fuel trim values.
Hello, In this case the answer was a Vacuum leak ruclips.net/video/fBu6JMA6yoE/видео.html . Since this video I have got my hands on a Durametric, I might do a video on fuel trims depending on what I find. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Hello Mika, Thank you very much for for this detailed information. Since this video I was loaned a Durametric. I will refer back to your information when we revisit the Durametric. You rock 🤘😎
I have actually the same issue now on my 3.4. It has been sitting like a year. And now idle is the same. I havent done any mech work on it. It has just sitted. Lookind to see what is result. 👍🤓
Hello Valhalla it was a vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs 🤓. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
@@ManinaGarage thanks man🙂👍🍻
Hi Finn, another great video, thanks. Sorry I can't help directly with the issue but have you seen Heidi and Franny's garage on RUclips? They have a similar problem after an engine rebuild. Episodes 29-32. I know it's an older car but maybe something in there that could help. Anyway, good luck, Stewart
That was good advice Stewart, I love Heidi & Fanny's garage 🙌 It ended up being a vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Hi Finn. Funny you should reply to this now. I just watched the video again to see if I can find any clues re my own engine running issues after rebuild. Had mine rebuilt by Hartech with 3.6 to 3.9 conversion. (Sent engine to them but installed myself). It runs lumpy above 4000rpm. Hartech say may need a remap. Either that or I've left some important tube dangling somewhere ;-) Good luck with yours. Looking forward the next video. Cheers, Stewart
@@stewartnunn8179 Obviously I’m not really qualified to comment on your engines issues. Just in case you have not tried it, that smoke test for vacuum leaks is awesome plus of course plugging it into a durametric. Good luck dude 🍀 please let me know what the answer is 🤓
@@ManinaGarage Thanks for the tips. Will let you know what I discover. Or stumble upon 🙂
Just an idea and very easy to try. It might be that your throttle body calibration is bad, that can happen if you start the engine too quickly after you had your battery and throttle disconnected. Fix would be to disconnect battery, then throttle and wait few minutes, connect throttle, then battery and then important step turn only ignition on for a good minute, this is when the throttle calibrates. Turn ignition off and now you should be good to go. This happened to me when I cleaned my Boxsters throttle the first time, symptoms were very similar.
Thank you Mikko I will add that to the list 😅. Between you and me, it was a vacuum leak 🤫. New video out soon. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage spoiler alert !🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@DavidJackson-zc4eq I hate to leave people hanging, it’s just the way the episodes worked out, the episode was just getting to dang long.
@@ManinaGarage Very happy it wasn't something major. Enjoy the car!
Is our seat uprights broken?... its not a chaise lounge ...its a car seat :-D
Howdy Digi Lux, I had to look back at the video to see what you were talking about 🤣😂 That is probably the position the seat has been in since I purchased the car, that drive was so stressful I just didn't change anything, I just watched the dash gauges and drove 😳. The posistion has been adjusted, hopefully you will approve. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
@@ManinaGarage I concur 🤗. Keep up the awesome work best wishes from the far north 🇳🇴🏎💨🏴☠️
Another vote here for vacuum leak. Hopefully an easy fix.
🏆 You Completely ROCK JEFF! 🙌
@@ManinaGarage I hope you're enjoying the car Finn!
This was again a very interesting video.
I also have a Durametric. The difficulty is to interpret the values correctly and then to act.
Unfortunately there are no guidelines for this.
For example: The deviation of the camshaft position:
I have measure that and then also the Porsche Center with my 996 with -5.04 at position 1 and 0 at position 2
Not even the Porsche Center had precise data on when the critical point was reached. The statement was: as long as there is no red message, everything is fine.
I didn't get any response from Hartech either.
What good is the diagnostic device if the numbers can be interpreted in any way you like.
Or do you have more comprehensible information? I would be very interested in.
Regards from Frankonia
Lothar
Howdy Frankonia 🤠 At the time it seemed like the world was ending, as it turned out the probalemwas just a simple Vacuum leak from one of the intake cuffs. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html
Would he not lend you his MAF for 5 mins to test?
Good Point Nick, Stacy's car is having its engine rebuilt in Orange County right now 😢
@@ManinaGarage ah, makes sense then 👍
Also are the 996 brakes Vacuum assisted?
Hello Mike, I have a strong suspicion that they are because I keep playing Russian Roulette with the Brake Vacuum Booster Line, this week is no exception. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Well I think that leak may be causing your rough idle??
@@ManinaGarage Well I suspect that may be the nature of your rough idle the outlet port that provides vacuum to brake boosters tends to be quite large and supplies a significant amount of vacuum, they also have a check valve to ensure vacuum goes only one way. given that it appears to smooth out at higher RPMs IT maybe 🤞source of your (Suspected leak). Just a hunch. Would start at the booster and follow it back to the engine vacuum source.
Best of luck
Cheers
Well done mate, you will get there in the end
Duuuuuuude! I watched your most recent Oil Change video on the Subaru, AMAZING stuff. Thank you very much for watching 🤘😎 Progress has been made...
ruclips.net/video/njzwt6xYTXI/видео.html