I know this os very old. But a good build, as a designer by trade I saw a few things if anyone makes one to watch out for, for safety. The side switch for power should be a push in/out or have guards to prevent it from being turned on by placing it against something. I had a case the exact same way (for R/C) and every time I went to use it, it was dead from something (someone) bumping it on at the track. Second you ran the power to the fuse box through the volt meter, the fuse box should have been wired direct to batt with fuse. The way you have it, the total amps of the fuse block now goes through the voltmeter and they are generally only made for 10 amps. A momentary short is going to blow the voltmeter before the fuse blows. Other than that, enjoyed the video presentation was better than some I have seen:)
Would recommend an inline fuse between battery positive and the main power switch as close to the battery as possible. Just in case of a short downstream before the fuse holder to protect the main switch and voltmeter.
Best tutorial I've found, am building two for hurricane season here in Eastern, NC. USA. #1 is the ammo box, 2nd is a larger box with two marine batteries ( in parallel) and a 1500w inverter on 100w solar panels to run TV, wi-fi, laptop, etc.... Thanks
Love the build. Not going to lie I would have thrown the box away and restarted the minute the holes weren't perfectly aligned. Yes, it's a flaw of mine but it would drive me nuts anytime I looked at it.
Nice job. I would put a fuse between the battery and main switch. Also, the positive main should go directly from the main switch to the fuse block. Plug the volt meter anywhere downstream from the fuse block.
Outstanding video man! Future reference, when drilling holes regardless of size, use some frog tape over the spot(s) you want to drill. It will give you much cleaner holes and I would use bits rather than using hole saw. The bits will dig that mess up and all you gotta do is pick and pull. Takes no time my guy. No scalpel needed lol
I also have plans to build one of these also, but I'm going to add two super capacitor banks and a 12v DC motor with hand crank. Plus, mine will also be EMP proof.
Put a piece of scrap wood on the backside of the plastic when drilling or boring to support the plastic against deformation and reduce the amount of cleanup required with the x-acto knife. The screws holding the fuse block should have a finishing washer under the heads to spread the load and keep the top from cracking. I'd recommend a fuse block that has both positive and negative connections so that everything is connected to it without the point to point jumpers back to the battery used here. It makes it easier to wire, easier to troubleshoot, easier to change things, eliminates a lot of wires being flexed when the lid is opened and closed. They are available with LED indicators for blown fuses. USB ports are available that will fast charge an iPad or iPhone, or other devices. Apple and Google Pixel needs PD 3.0 and most other electronics need QC 3.0. There are some that have both QC and PD. You may also want to consider USB-C connectors as they are becoming more common and can deliver more power by increasing their voltage output. With more and more things using USB for charging adding one of the fast charge ports to this setup seems like a good bet.
Anderson plug's needed and maybe LED bar instead of Volt meter. Also power switch on top - not to get knock when packed. Volt meter would be handy if you can externally access it, like a basic multimeter. The lights are a great idea. you can also buy resettable blade fuses.
Now this is thee most detailed build video i've ever seen and has helped me figure out how i want to build mine for ham radio portable ops. Thanks for the great video.
Built one of these, or at least similar idea. Mine was a larger box with fuse block, ground bar, dual usb, powerpole 15amp, powerpole 30amp, master switch to power fuse block, and then side mount powerpoles for charger connection on the outside of the box. I then also installed a mobile dual band 2m and 70cm transceiver. Im sure I overkilled it, but I ran 10 awg wire from battery through switch and then fuse block, and then all the other wiring was 12 awg. Fun project
Can you elaborate on this transceiver thing? I would love to see a video of what you are talking about. I have most of the parts needed, just trying to finalize my plan. I want to be able to power a garmin echomap and a livescope with the black box, and my submersible green LED light for night fishing via cigarette plug. I have an 18ah lithium battery. I hope thats enough.
@@anonymous_friend ....it is a HAM Radio. Both receives and transmits at 50w for 2m and 70cm bands. Carry a roll up J-pole antenna for the radio. Easily communicates simplex or duplex for coverage in the Tulsa area. Radio distance has a lot of variables, but I can consistently get 40-50 miles. Ive since built 2 more of these using an Apache case from Harbor Freight.....generic version of a pelican case. Fun to build and very useful
Really liked the "live" build of this box. Great stuff. Maybe put a tiny bit more info on the electrical part for us electricity noobs ;-) Sounds like a fun project...I would just add a radio on there and turn it into a ham radio go box!
Great video, very entertaining and filmed well considering how small and intricate that box is. Really enjoyed watching you plan the steps out before starting to work.
This is really cool, thanks for sharing! I'm looking to upscale this for a ~40AH battery as I'll be using mine for astrophotography so will need it to run all through a winters night.
Did you make one? I use Minn Kota trolling motor boxes for my home built emergency backup power boxes to run CPAP machines. I put in a 100 amp hour lithium battery in one unit and with its attached 300 watt inverter weighs 22 pounds. I got carried away and stuffed mine with a 200 amp hour lithium battery to run a 1200 watt inverter if needed. That weighs 43 pounds total. With that, you could run your iOptron SkyGuider Pro, a 5 cup coffee maker, cook your midnight stew with the smaller Instapot pressure cooker, and run your trolling motor to get across the lake in the morning. I should make a video of it.
@@kimmer6 Hey Kimmer. Well, my astro rig grew arms and legs so I had to rethink the power solution. Given work and the awful weather we've had, I've not had the opportunity to image remotely so for now, I'm continuing to run on mains electric. Wow, sounds like your got your power situation sorted out!
@@IcedReaver I should start hanging out in the pub. It might be a cheaper endeavor than building lithium battery powered things! Here's that trolling motor box with 200 amp hours, 2560 watt hours, stuffed inside. I built the 7200 watt hour unit underneath it for running my son's fridge and chest freezer when the grid goes down....again. I keep improving it and Version 2 will be much better. In NorCal, Spring weather arrived and I'll head out tonight and look for satellites. ruclips.net/video/Z1raS3WEe1g/видео.html
@@kimmer6 I just checked out your video, and you weren't kidding when you said you had a slow cooker on the go! I'll put in an order of beef brisket please :) I'm sure you'll see plenty of satellites when the sky is clear, they certainly find their way into my images that's for sure.
@@IcedReaver Remember the Iridium satellites? I tracked and viewed about 200 of them. They would catch sunlight at night for a few seconds and flare brightly. My tracker app was quite accurate. I was at the local fishing pier one night pointing out where to look to my friend who never saw a flare. Some crackhead asked what I was pointing out. I showed him the app and the map on my cell phone and couldn't help myself in telling a fib. I told him that I worked for Lockheed Martin and that I was going to turn on the back porch light on our satellite. There were about 6 of his friends and I pointed out where to look. I did the countdown and tapped my phone. They thought that was the most awesome thing...touch my phone make that thing in space light up. ''Do it again, do it again!!!''. ''Woops, can't do it yet. I have to let the batteries recharge.'' I miss those Iridium Sats.... Corned beef and cabbage coming up Thursday for St Paddy's Day. Come on over.
Great video. I am also building a powerbox of sorts. I am adding in multiple inputs for charging. Solar and the ac adapter but everything will be closed so no need to open the case to do any charging or work.
May want to at least run an "in line" fuse between main and Voltmeter, and also step drill bits are great for things like this. A little wire loom and maybe some foam and You couldn't buy a better setup! Awesome Job!! Look forward to more of your vids
Run piggybacks to a waterproof SAE connector. That amped lifepo4 charger is easy to splice over to SAE. External charging without having to open the box, and you can wire in a solar charge controller inline for a solar generator.
You did a really good job. the only thing missing is you charging up that battery again you could get the charging system out of an old UPS Computer backup system so you can charge with 110V plug so you can charge the battery back up.
Stumbled across this, never though of this battery box idea. Not sure how to recharge, great follow up comment about using an old UPS. Got a couple lying around, going to trying that! Thanks for the video.
Thank you but darn it, you're making me think about adding LED lights. My box bangs around in the back, but I might be able to put the lights in between some ridges in the case... My box version is not as nice as yours, it's meant to be a straight 12v, light and portable power supply for a high volume (truck tire) air compressor and light duty trolling motor (I only run it for short runs when my hands are busy with fly line) and my fish finder/gps so I just have brass pass through (remote jumper posts) automotive terminals mounted near the handle of a waterproof Pelican clone (waterproof case with a one way vent) with foam that came with it to prevent rattling. I used 5/16" posts but if I did it again I'd use standard 3/8" posts. For waterproofing I sacrificed an old inner tube to make rubber washers. Put them on the outside, under the terminal body (not inside) and your case is waterproof again. The posts come with a screw on piece that locks ring terminals in place and protects the posts. Since I used rubber washers, it floats, and I don't have to worry about salt water corrosion on my wiring, although I like the LED lights idea >:( I used to help with minor modifications and installations on friends boats so I like to keep wiring simple and accessible because I've spent way too much time upside down tracing wiring. If I were to run a heavy duty setup and didn't care about weight I'd probably use automotive side battery terminals and screw in some Better Battery posts so I could run standard car connections for charging and whatnot. I run short 8ga wires with a 30a fuse inside, and my large tire air compressor has a 10a fuse that I tend to blow when I abuse it and let it get too hot 🔥. So I don't run down my car battery, my box works great as a portable 12v source for inflatable kayak, SUP, and car camping air mattresses ... oh, I almost forgot about my human wash down pump (self priming ShurFlo with a pressure switch) for when I get out of the water (it draws from a 5 gallon bucket) and I really should use it to wash my car (not allowed to wash my car where I live).
Great build. I was hoping you would open and close the box... If you did, I may have missed it. Either way, a suggestion, It appears the wires would bend at the hinge area. While you are not opening and closing often, it would be an area of future failure. If you run the wires from the lid down to one side to the hinge, cross over at the hinge and then into the box. That way the wires would twist over the length of the hinge rather than bend at it. Hopefully this makes sense. Again, great project.
@@NPLife BUT.....the components you have used are not waterproof. No point sealing the holes in the box if water can go through the actual components. I would doubt how waterproof the box was before you drilled through the top and sides. As you say... not a good idea tbh. However, a nice build.
@@simonhamilton500 Thanks for the comment! It's more for incidental splashes and things while on a boat or in an ice house. No part of me thinks it's waterproof.
My life was a power outage that lasted nine years and three months. Alone, off-grid in a cabin high-up in a forest. A quiet, peaceful life but sometimes with severe hardship. These power boxes were what I had been looking for. They are truly a life saver. Maybe it’s time to “pay it forward”. I should document my refrigerator, and freezer. Hopefully I can make someone else’s life easier.
Very nice build. I will be making a similar one shortly and you gave me some good ideas. Greetings from sunny Jamaica. Update: I built mine in the same ammo can but with less components. Only 2 lights and no fuse block, just an inline fuse from the battery. I used a 7.4ah sealed lead acid battery (UPS type) since i got some free used ones that were still pretty good. I charge it with a 100 watt panel and sometimes a 10 watt panel.
Great video!! thank you!! ill copy this! i am curious about a couple of things, how will the battery charge? also, any idea how long would this power station would provide power to say a 40watt LED light when camping? Could i switch the battery to something bigger?
Good Job. I build them myself for people. I set mine up so they can be charged by AC plug, Solar Panel or a Car Cigarette Lighter Plug. You might want to give the charging some thought. However you've done good,
@@SuperVstech I used exclusively solder on one of those DIY spot welder kits. The device runs hundreds of amps and is literally designed to melt metal. Adding solder to the circuit board traces doubled the power and allows me to weld 0.3mm pure nickel with a device roughly the size of a credit card. Even commercial quality spot welders can't do that. If your electronics are running at >350F, time to find a new hobby.
The only change I would make is to the master switch. I would not have it wired in a way that it always connects a load to the battery. The voltmeter (load) is always on and even though it's a small load, it is still draining the battery. One possibility would be to have an on/off switch for the voltmeter. Do you really need a constant display of voltage? It only takes one forgetful moment to completely discharge your battery.
Hey! Thanks for watching and the comment! The way it's wired only sends load to the voltmeter when the master switch is on. The master is the cut off between the battery and any components. Sorry if I didn't show that well.
I notice a number of questions about recharging. I have a similar set up device and as well as connecting a conventional mains powered charger to the banana plugs I have made up a lead to connect to my vehicle car cigarette socket and thus recharge as I am driving to and fro.
Hello fellas, is there a way that i can have everything connect to something, and then that something connects to the botttom, im looking to hide the wires, is there a type of junction or something
Gave you a like - and some CONSTRUCTIVE criticism! - solder, solder, solder; anything that'll live near water (especially the salty kind), should be soldered, not crimped, to prevent corrsion damage, longterm. Nice tools, by the way. Also, the box is too small for ALL you stuffed in it; thse newfangled batteries (BMS-controlled powerpacks), NEED cooling, no room for circulation leaves NO room for cooling air to do its job; not to mention all the heat producing lights, etc. (even if they're all LEDs, they still give off some heat), and it leaves additional room for future 'improvements' - my projects are rarely ever "complete" for at least 2-3 additional sessions of "would have been better this or that way; so I'll change something or two!"
Stupid question: When you charge the battery, are you attaching the charger directly to the battery terminals or are you using one set of banana terminals to accomplish that task?
You really need to INSTALL an integrated charging system. It really really leaves a HUGE hole in the project not discussing what you are using to charge it. 120v, solar, etc should be included...
Hey John! I charge it through the banana posts with a lithium charger. I'd love to see different charging options. I'd assume that since you're watching powerbox videos you're planning on making one. You should create a video and include the things that i missed. good luck!
@@NPLife Yes... there is a plan to make one. I have many of the parts. I am awaiting the charger... to determine how I will incorporate it into the build. I will do something to outline my progress. Thanks.
Great video!,… very clean design. Will be very helpful when I build my own,… just wondering, how many ways can you recharge the battery,… Will you post a video for this. Thanks
hole saw would have been the best choice for drilling. I like that build want to do the same for my trolling motor battery so I can charge phone or what every when I'm fishing.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
*Great **Generater.Systems** so far. We have the same brand just a little less power. This one is so much quieter then our first one. Great buy*
I know this os very old. But a good build, as a designer by trade I saw a few things if anyone makes one to watch out for, for safety. The side switch for power should be a push in/out or have guards to prevent it from being turned on by placing it against something. I had a case the exact same way (for R/C) and every time I went to use it, it was dead from something (someone) bumping it on at the track. Second you ran the power to the fuse box through the volt meter, the fuse box should have been wired direct to batt with fuse. The way you have it, the total amps of the fuse block now goes through the voltmeter and they are generally only made for 10 amps. A momentary short is going to blow the voltmeter before the fuse blows. Other than that, enjoyed the video presentation was better than some I have seen:)
Awesome build. Appreciate the shout out as well. This is why I put out the video in the first place.
Thanks man!
Great idea! You may want to consider using a step drill for the holes as they tend to cut cleaner in this situation.
Yes. Can Confirm. Do This ^^^^^^^^^
Would recommend an inline fuse between battery positive and the main power switch as close to the battery as possible. Just in case of a short downstream before the fuse holder to protect the main switch and voltmeter.
Ammo cans! It’s like Tupperware, but for men!
Fantastic video! Continuity test with multimeter between components is while wiring is always a great sanity check
Best tutorial I've found, am building two for hurricane season here in Eastern, NC. USA. #1 is the ammo box, 2nd is a larger box with two marine batteries ( in parallel) and a 1500w inverter on 100w solar panels to run TV, wi-fi, laptop, etc.... Thanks
Have you started your tandem marine battery solar build yet?
Great vid... I like the light idea! Nice clean audio with no annoying back ground music!
…but please in future videos get rid of the guitar music also.
Love the build. Not going to lie I would have thrown the box away and restarted the minute the holes weren't perfectly aligned. Yes, it's a flaw of mine but it would drive me nuts anytime I looked at it.
Never go Full Corn Pop
Excellent video...many, many thanks! I love the OCD factor when you noticed the
imperfections :)
Just a terrific video. Thank you! I am looking forward to starting my project.
I've found that step drill bits are awesome for drilling in plastic boxes.
Great tutorial! Thanks for including so much detail in how you built this out.
That’s awesome. Great video. I have my switches installed but never finished.
Nice job. I would put a fuse between the battery and main switch. Also, the positive main should go directly from the main switch to the fuse block. Plug the volt meter anywhere downstream from the fuse block.
how many amps of fuse do you recommend?
Outstanding video man! Future reference, when drilling holes regardless of size, use some frog tape over the spot(s) you want to drill. It will give you much cleaner holes and I would use bits rather than using hole saw. The bits will dig that mess up and all you gotta do is pick and pull. Takes no time my guy. No scalpel needed lol
Thanks man, I never thought of that!
Or grab a rat tail deburr tool from harbor freight, super cheap. It's take off any excess flash that the whole saw or otherwise leaves behind
Step bits are the way to go for stuff like that, for sure
I also have plans to build one of these also, but I'm going to add two super capacitor banks and a 12v DC motor with hand crank. Plus, mine will also be EMP proof.
Very nice build. I love putting together power boxes too
Put a piece of scrap wood on the backside of the plastic when drilling or boring to support the plastic against deformation and reduce the amount of cleanup required with the x-acto knife.
The screws holding the fuse block should have a finishing washer under the heads to spread the load and keep the top from cracking.
I'd recommend a fuse block that has both positive and negative connections so that everything is connected to it without the point to point jumpers back to the battery used here. It makes it easier to wire, easier to troubleshoot, easier to change things, eliminates a lot of wires being flexed when the lid is opened and closed. They are available with LED indicators for blown fuses.
USB ports are available that will fast charge an iPad or iPhone, or other devices. Apple and Google Pixel needs PD 3.0 and most other electronics need QC 3.0. There are some that have both QC and PD. You may also want to consider USB-C connectors as they are becoming more common and can deliver more power by increasing their voltage output. With more and more things using USB for charging adding one of the fast charge ports to this setup seems like a good bet.
Consider adding a XLR plug to charge the battery easily.
the best compact power box i ever seen and clean work too i will make the same but a big box to add a solar charging
thanx for the steps of the diy
Awesome presentation. You Rock!👍
Anderson plug's needed and maybe LED bar instead of Volt meter.
Also power switch on top - not to get knock when packed.
Volt meter would be handy if you can externally access it, like a basic multimeter.
The lights are a great idea. you can also buy resettable blade fuses.
Now this is thee most detailed build video i've ever seen and has helped me figure out how i want to build mine for ham radio portable ops. Thanks for the great video.
Yup, that is why I am here. Getting my setup ready to go outdoors.
Thanks guy! I'm glad I coukd help a bit.
Your battery is actually in the front of the ammo can...cool build.
Built one of these, or at least similar idea. Mine was a larger box with fuse block, ground bar, dual usb, powerpole 15amp, powerpole 30amp, master switch to power fuse block, and then side mount powerpoles for charger connection on the outside of the box. I then also installed a mobile dual band 2m and 70cm transceiver. Im sure I overkilled it, but I ran 10 awg wire from battery through switch and then fuse block, and then all the other wiring was 12 awg. Fun project
Can you elaborate on this transceiver thing? I would love to see a video of what you are talking about. I have most of the parts needed, just trying to finalize my plan. I want to be able to power a garmin echomap and a livescope with the black box, and my submersible green LED light for night fishing via cigarette plug. I have an 18ah lithium battery. I hope thats enough.
@@anonymous_friend ....it is a HAM Radio. Both receives and transmits at 50w for 2m and 70cm bands. Carry a roll up J-pole antenna for the radio. Easily communicates simplex or duplex for coverage in the Tulsa area. Radio distance has a lot of variables, but I can consistently get 40-50 miles. Ive since built 2 more of these using an Apache case from Harbor Freight.....generic version of a pelican case. Fun to build and very useful
Really liked the "live" build of this box. Great stuff. Maybe put a tiny bit more info on the electrical part for us electricity noobs ;-) Sounds like a fun project...I would just add a radio on there and turn it into a ham radio go box!
could use a few push button reset-able breakers .. beats searching for fuses in the woods in the dark?
Great video, very entertaining and filmed well considering how small and intricate that box is. Really enjoyed watching you plan the steps out before starting to work.
using a step drill will clean up the holes real nice
great detailed information on how to get this done. Now i can actually get the parts and do it myself, Thanks!!!
Do you have a way of charging the battery while its in the box?
To many switches I would keep the master, the lights, & the power & USB ports, eliminate two. The banana posts can be hot wired to the fuse box.
This is really cool, thanks for sharing! I'm looking to upscale this for a ~40AH battery as I'll be using mine for astrophotography so will need it to run all through a winters night.
Did you make one? I use Minn Kota trolling motor boxes for my home built emergency backup power boxes to run CPAP machines. I put in a 100 amp hour lithium battery in one unit and with its attached 300 watt inverter weighs 22 pounds. I got carried away and stuffed mine with a 200 amp hour lithium battery to run a 1200 watt inverter if needed. That weighs 43 pounds total. With that, you could run your iOptron SkyGuider Pro, a 5 cup coffee maker, cook your midnight stew with the smaller Instapot pressure cooker, and run your trolling motor to get across the lake in the morning. I should make a video of it.
@@kimmer6 Hey Kimmer. Well, my astro rig grew arms and legs so I had to rethink the power solution. Given work and the awful weather we've had, I've not had the opportunity to image remotely so for now, I'm continuing to run on mains electric. Wow, sounds like your got your power situation sorted out!
@@IcedReaver I should start hanging out in the pub. It might be a cheaper endeavor than building lithium battery powered things! Here's that trolling motor box with 200 amp hours, 2560 watt hours, stuffed inside. I built the 7200 watt hour unit underneath it for running my son's fridge and chest freezer when the grid goes down....again. I keep improving it and Version 2 will be much better. In NorCal, Spring weather arrived and I'll head out tonight and look for satellites. ruclips.net/video/Z1raS3WEe1g/видео.html
@@kimmer6 I just checked out your video, and you weren't kidding when you said you had a slow cooker on the go! I'll put in an order of beef brisket please :) I'm sure you'll see plenty of satellites when the sky is clear, they certainly find their way into my images that's for sure.
@@IcedReaver
Remember the Iridium satellites? I tracked and viewed about 200 of them. They would catch sunlight at night for a few seconds and flare brightly. My tracker app was quite accurate. I was at the local fishing pier one night pointing out where to look to my friend who never saw a flare. Some crackhead asked what I was pointing out. I showed him the app and the map on my cell phone and couldn't help myself in telling a fib. I told him that I worked for Lockheed Martin and that I was going to turn on the back porch light on our satellite. There were about 6 of his friends and I pointed out where to look. I did the countdown and tapped my phone. They thought that was the most awesome thing...touch my phone make that thing in space light up. ''Do it again, do it again!!!''. ''Woops, can't do it yet. I have to let the batteries recharge.'' I miss those Iridium Sats.... Corned beef and cabbage coming up Thursday for St Paddy's Day. Come on over.
Great video. I am also building a powerbox of sorts. I am adding in multiple inputs for charging. Solar and the ac adapter but everything will be closed so no need to open the case to do any charging or work.
May want to at least run an "in line" fuse between main and Voltmeter, and also step drill bits are great for things like this. A little wire loom and maybe some foam and You couldn't buy a better setup! Awesome Job!! Look forward to more of your vids
Run piggybacks to a waterproof SAE connector. That amped lifepo4 charger is easy to splice over to SAE. External charging without having to open the box, and you can wire in a solar charge controller inline for a solar generator.
Looks nice but how you going to charge it up
My question too
I would guess in the car with cigarette lighter to cigarette lighter adapter. Its 12 volts just like the car.
Probably via one set of the banana posts
Regular car style battery charger. Pop the top, hook the clips and youre done
@@wr3ncher if im not mistaken, the charger voltage must higher than the battery, should be around >14v
Pretty cool package indeed !
Thanks again for the great video and taking time to help me out with my build!
Any time man! be sure to send some pics when you're done.
You did a really good job. the only thing missing is you charging up that battery again you could get the charging system out of an old UPS Computer backup system so you can charge with 110V plug so you can charge the battery back up.
Stumbled across this, never though of this battery box idea. Not sure how to recharge, great follow up comment about using an old UPS. Got a couple lying around, going to trying that! Thanks for the video.
Thank you very useful presentation
Thank you but darn it, you're making me think about adding LED lights.
My box bangs around in the back, but I might be able to put the lights in between some ridges in the case...
My box version is not as nice as yours, it's meant to be a straight 12v, light and portable power supply for a high volume (truck tire) air compressor and light duty trolling motor (I only run it for short runs when my hands are busy with fly line) and my fish finder/gps so I just have brass pass through (remote jumper posts) automotive terminals mounted near the handle of a waterproof Pelican clone (waterproof case with a one way vent) with foam that came with it to prevent rattling.
I used 5/16" posts but if I did it again I'd use standard 3/8" posts.
For waterproofing I sacrificed an old inner tube to make rubber washers. Put them on the outside, under the terminal body (not inside) and your case is waterproof again.
The posts come with a screw on piece that locks ring terminals in place and protects the posts.
Since I used rubber washers, it floats, and I don't have to worry about salt water corrosion on my wiring, although I like the LED lights idea >:(
I used to help with minor modifications and installations on friends boats so I like to keep wiring simple and accessible because I've spent way too much time upside down tracing wiring.
If I were to run a heavy duty setup and didn't care about weight I'd probably use automotive side battery terminals and screw in some Better Battery posts so I could run standard car connections for charging and whatnot.
I run short 8ga wires with a 30a fuse inside, and my large tire air compressor has a 10a fuse that I tend to blow when I abuse it and let it get too hot 🔥.
So I don't run down my car battery, my box works great as a portable 12v source for inflatable kayak, SUP, and car camping air mattresses ... oh, I almost forgot about my human wash down pump (self priming ShurFlo with a pressure switch) for when I get out of the water (it draws from a 5 gallon bucket) and I really should use it to wash my car (not allowed to wash my car where I live).
Nice job... started on mine... almost finished...
Thanks! I hope yours turns out great!
Cool job
Great build. I was hoping you would open and close the box... If you did, I may have missed it. Either way, a suggestion, It appears the wires would bend at the hinge area. While you are not opening and closing often, it would be an area of future failure. If you run the wires from the lid down to one side to the hinge, cross over at the hinge and then into the box. That way the wires would twist over the length of the hinge rather than bend at it. Hopefully this makes sense. Again, great project.
I think I’d want some type of gasket around all the holes in case of rain, etc. cut & paint bolts. Great design.
Thanks Pat! I ended up putting some silicone around the holes on the bottom side of the lid. Just for that extra water resistance.
@@NPLife BUT.....the components you have used are not waterproof. No point sealing the holes in the box if water can go through the actual components. I would doubt how waterproof the box was before you drilled through the top and sides. As you say... not a good idea tbh. However, a nice build.
@@simonhamilton500 Thanks for the comment! It's more for incidental splashes and things while on a boat or in an ice house. No part of me thinks it's waterproof.
good video and will help me with my box build. Thanks
wow you just saved me a few hundred bucks thanks man!! well done 👌🏻
what was the total cost?
Excellent box build. that's talent!!!👍😎
I build something similar but after watching this I need to rewire mine. Yours is a lot cleaner
Awesome build for power outages
My life was a power outage that lasted nine years and three months. Alone, off-grid in a cabin high-up in a forest. A quiet, peaceful life but sometimes with severe hardship. These power boxes were what I had been looking for. They are truly a life saver. Maybe it’s time to “pay it forward”. I should document my refrigerator, and freezer. Hopefully I can make someone else’s life easier.
Very nice build. I will be making a similar one shortly and you gave me some good ideas. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.
Update: I built mine in the same ammo can but with less components. Only 2 lights and no fuse block, just an inline fuse from the battery. I used a 7.4ah sealed lead acid battery (UPS type) since i got some free used ones that were still pretty good. I charge it with a 100 watt panel and sometimes a 10 watt panel.
Silly question maybe: how do you wire banana jacks to power supply for devices (I.e fish finder)?
Cool build, I'm wanting to build an emergency power station for my home, and now have some useful ideas. Thanks for the video.
i like this setup alot thanks for explaining it great video!
I've been trying to find those style lights but in a Infrared Spectrum for running night vision cameras.
Did i miss something? How do you charge it?
Regular battery charger. I built the exact box jds outdoors did with the same solar charge option.
@@chrispierce2942 I didn’t see where you could charge it either
You just ooen the top, take the alligator clips and attach them to the battery terminals directly. If you want solar, that's an additional build
I noticed that too. With the mess of wires, opening and closing it to charge will likely create a problem at some point with the wires.
through the positive and negative terminals.
Great video!! thank you!! ill copy this! i am curious about a couple of things, how will the battery charge? also, any idea how long would this power station would provide power to say a 40watt LED light when camping? Could i switch the battery to something bigger?
Good Job. I build them myself for people. I set mine up so they can be charged by AC plug, Solar Panel or a Car Cigarette Lighter Plug. You might want to give the charging some thought. However you've done good,
How much do you charge, or is it only for people you know? I would love to see your final product. I liked the charging options you mentioned.
Kansas, how much do you charge for your build? I'm interested in one to use for my fish finder. Let me know. Thanks.
Should have just used 2 bus bars, one for power and one for ground would be nice and easy. Thank you for your time in making the awesome video. 👍
May want to try using a step drill bit next time. Another guy did and it worked well for him, can't remember the channel.
Nicely done
Is there a charging port for the battery? I didn't hear you saying anything about the charging process... Great device!
Should've invested in some terminal strips home depot or lowes will carry them...
This is such a great design using that Ammo box 👍
I don't know why you didn't just solder most of the wires though.
Soldering wires that will have decent ampdraw is a bad idea, solder melts, and can cause resistance issues.
@@SuperVstech If soldered wiring melts you've got a design problem ! lol
@@edwardfletcher7790 yes… you used solder…
@@SuperVstech Yeah, I should have used scotch locks like a Pro ! LMAO
@@SuperVstech I used exclusively solder on one of those DIY spot welder kits. The device runs hundreds of amps and is literally designed to melt metal. Adding solder to the circuit board traces doubled the power and allows me to weld 0.3mm pure nickel with a device roughly the size of a credit card. Even commercial quality spot welders can't do that. If your electronics are running at >350F, time to find a new hobby.
Awesome video!! Thanks for this.
Very thorough. Great video and tutorial.
Thank you!
question: why didn't you use one set of banana post so you could hook up to them and trickle charge the battery?
The only change I would make is to the master switch. I would not have it wired in a way that it always connects a load to the battery. The voltmeter (load) is always on and even though it's a small load, it is still draining the battery. One possibility would be to have an on/off switch for the voltmeter. Do you really need a constant display of voltage? It only takes one forgetful moment to completely discharge your battery.
Hey! Thanks for watching and the comment! The way it's wired only sends load to the voltmeter when the master switch is on. The master is the cut off between the battery and any components. Sorry if I didn't show that well.
Lock washer can do it’s job only if you’re not use regular washer.
nice job.people are paying a lot of money for these.
one thing you might have thought to put in this build is a recharging port other then that I think i'm going to build me one
Gran trabajo amigo.
Saludos desde Santiago de Chile.
I notice a number of questions about recharging. I have a similar set up device and as well as connecting a conventional mains powered charger to the banana plugs I have made up a lead to connect to my vehicle car cigarette socket and thus recharge as I am driving to and fro.
You had me at symmetry.
It they had small blacklight that size of the whites. Be a perfect catfish set up
Hello fellas, is there a way that i can have everything connect to something, and then that something connects to the botttom, im looking to hide the wires, is there a type of junction or something
I thought I'd be able to do something like this, but after watching this, I know I can't.
How do you charge the battery when it's low?
Thank you, what was the cost for this project?
GREAT TUTORIAL. one question though... what do you use the banana clips for? is that how you recharge the battery?
Thanks! Yes, I use them to recharge. I also use them to hook up led light strips on my tent and boat, as well as, running fish finders.
Gave you a like - and some CONSTRUCTIVE criticism! - solder, solder, solder; anything that'll live near water (especially the salty
kind), should be soldered, not crimped, to prevent corrsion damage, longterm. Nice tools, by the way. Also, the box is too small
for ALL you stuffed in it; thse newfangled batteries (BMS-controlled powerpacks), NEED cooling, no room for circulation leaves
NO room for cooling air to do its job; not to mention all the heat producing lights, etc. (even if they're all LEDs, they still give off
some heat), and it leaves additional room for future 'improvements' - my projects are rarely ever "complete" for at least 2-3
additional sessions of "would have been better this or that way; so I'll change something or two!"
Stupid question: When you charge the battery, are you attaching the charger directly to the battery terminals or are you using one set of banana terminals to accomplish that task?
Well done!
Question? Is the battery rechargeable and how do you charge it?
It is. I charge it through the banana posts with the lithium charger that comes with the battery.
That's cool. Do you think you could charge it off a 100w solar panel?
@@quassisbelltower9408 honestly, I have no idea. I'd imagine you could. It just might take a while.
Where did you purchase your materials. Thanks for sharing your build video. I have subscribed to your channel.
What is a good use for terminals on a box? And what size fuze would you recommend I'm running a 12v 15amp sla
You really need to INSTALL an integrated charging system. It really really leaves a HUGE hole in the project not discussing what you are using to charge it. 120v, solar, etc should be included...
Hey John! I charge it through the banana posts with a lithium charger. I'd love to see different charging options. I'd assume that since you're watching powerbox videos you're planning on making one. You should create a video and include the things that i missed. good luck!
@@NPLife Yes... there is a plan to make one. I have many of the parts. I am awaiting the charger... to determine how I will incorporate it into the build. I will do something to outline my progress. Thanks.
@@PelicanPines you could tell when you create the video bc Ill be one giving you like and suscribing !
How's that video coming along John?
@@ColdStoneRacing Oh... it's like 5 projects down on the list, sorry. I won't forget. Spring 2021
Good work.
Great video!,… very clean design.
Will be very helpful when I build my own,… just wondering, how many ways can you recharge the battery,…
Will you post a video for this.
Thanks
Great video and nice box :)
Dang bro good vid very thorough
Dumb question because I am still learning about building a portable battery station. What about the battery possibly overheating?
hole saw would have been the best choice for drilling. I like that build want to do the same for my trolling motor battery so I can charge phone or what every when I'm fishing.
nice build thanks for sharing
Thank you!
Nice job!
Thanks Larry!
Are the disconnect terminal sizing listed correct? Aren’t the standard sizes 18-22, 16-14, and 12-10? I can’t find the sizes you listed
Can I use that for a grill
Awesome dude!