A lot of people think that because snap on uses the super lube grease, that it's the best to use, but I've found out over time, that's not the case at all. I use super lube multi synthetic oil ISO 100. It's the absolute sweet spot. It's got enough viscosity to keep the ratchet lubed properly, but is thin enough to not cause stickiness or cause the ratchet to slip. The grease is just to thick for these high tooth count ratchets. The super lube multi synthetic oil ISO 100 keeps the ratchet lubed properly for extended periods of time, but is not too thick where it causes an adverse reaction. Also, if you take the spring out that pushes up against the pawl and you trim just a little bit off of it, flip the trimmed end and put the trimmed side back into the little piece that sits on top of the spring, and pushes against the pawl, it will seriously take the back drag down several inch ounces. As usual, awesome content bro!! I'm telling you, you're going to blow up!! Like I said last time, I don't think you realize how much of a natural you are at this RUclips stuff.
Thank you for all of that info. I will pick up some of that oil. I just don’t have enough experience with these higher tooth ratchets that ain’t snap on. Also I never really dove into the back drag thing like this before. I can’t say it enough I really appreciate you helping me out. I’ve learned a lot in this short while.
Second this for the super lube 100 (100-150) which is what I use on all toolbox drawer slides as well, nothing else compares from what I have used and experienced. The super lube grease in the gearwrench 120xp locks them up and same with matco, but the oil runs properly in gw, matco, mac, tekton and stays inside, I store on their sides, but have not noticed any leaks. For my snap-on I use the grease.
Your welcome. I’m actually starting to change my opinion on the ole Harbor freight. Some stuff ain’t bad for the price. Now it ain’t no Snap-on like all the fan boys try to tell a guy. But certain tools ain’t bad for the money.
Yes thank you for confirming this. Been saying this for years. These high tooth count/micro tooth ratchets need a thin oil. Regardless of what the manufacturers suggests.
Great video! I think grease is a little too thick for these high tooth count ratchets. I just use a little 3 and 1 oil in them. That torque screwdriver is the way to go for demonstrating the amount of back drag on ratchets. It would be interesting to see how the Die Hard compares to the ICON back drag.
Great video, I also remove the head and get rid of the factory washer in the flex head, then replace it with a thicker gauge lock washer. Makes the flex head way more sturdy.
I did the same thing to my GW 120's last week! but I used ProX Freehub oil for mountainbike hubs. Much thinner, low friction, lightweight oil. Night and day difference! I also trimmed the little springs that put tension on the pawls just the tiniest bit, maybe one coil or 1mm max. It was even better. The ratchet now has a Super light backdrag, much quiter, and zero skip or slip. You just have to be super careful with that cut. There's a very fine line between perfect and Fkd.
Good to know. Yeah I can see the spring being a delicate process. The worse thing is the icon 1/2” is a rectangle spring. If I screw it up I’m not going to find that damn thing anywhere.
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench Got that right! The 1/4" was pucker time micro surgery, I went overboard by one coil and had to steal a spring from a duplicate I was luck enough to have. I'm thinking the only way to get those springs is to get another head kit? Square spring on the big boy hey? Never seen that before? I'm a Snow Mexican, so I don't have easy access to the HF stuff🫤
I run what is used in bicycles. I have a small container of DT Swiss grease for rear bike hubs. FYI bike rear hubs are pretty much ratchets. There's also thinner greases such as Slickoleum and Buzzy's slick honey which are available at bike shops/online stores.
Ive worked as a bicycle mechanic full time for years and occasionally for a couple decades now. The bike lube guys crack me up. For the most part, its just waterproof trailer bearing grease repackaged and sold at an insane mark up. Dont believe me? Go spend $14 on a small tube of park tools bike grease and a $7 tube of blue trailer bearing grease at the parts store that goes in a grease gun. 3x the product, at half the price. Same with rock and roll and whoever else is marketing the red grease. I do love the little bottle of triflow with the straw in it though.
@@aaadamt964 I agree with the repackaging and rebranding of greases out there. However there are different viscosities of grease. I use marine grease for loose bearings but for fork seals and rear hubs that calls for something way thinner. If there's an alternative for something small and more affordable out there I'd like to know.
Timely video with all the 40% off Icon ratchets that sold last month. Sending these out either bone dry, missing a washer, or packed with the wrong lube isnt a good look for HF's top tier brand. Subbed to help get you to 1000!
As wrench driver for work and a bicycle repair guy at home. I can tell you that TriFlow is used by every Bicycle repair guy I know or have watched on RUclips! From cables to chains it flows great and sticks to the parts well! I would think that inside a ratchet is fine and will try it this weekend on my old Craftsmen or SnapOn handles?
I’ve used white lithium grease in my Snap-On ratchets because it’s been on hand. I used one of my 1/4” ratchets to crack bleeder screws and noticed after a weekend of not using, the gears were seized. Brake fluid will wreck them as it absorbs moisture. Took it apart and used white lithium. Still going strong.
Quick and Dirty haha But you are cleaning them.... I have one of my older snap on that is starting to do this... Maybe its time to tear it down and re grease or possibly oil?
Lucas HD gun oil as it is used on phosphate parts anyway. Been through this a year ago. 90 up I use oil. Less teeth I use grease. Gearwrench 120xp loves superlube!! As it's really a 60t anvil dual pawl system. Also, Lucas is thicker so bleeds a little less
Great subject my friend!! I even use ATF on some ratchets,depends on the tooth count!! Ill be giving your channel a shout out today!! I have 8K in subs,I think you'll get some coming over!! Take care my friend!
Thank you. I truly appreciate it. An old timer I knew use to dip his ratchets and old school ratcheting wrenches in atf. He always said “It cleans em then lubes em. What more do you want”
Yes Kokens are like sewing machines. Best tolerances and finest machining in the tool business. They also have that stacked single pawl (i guess thats what you call it) that would probably stick together with a thick grease. Never had to do anything to my Kokens - except look inside 😂
I've started using WD-40 Gel Spray Lube in all of my high tooth count ratchets (72t to 90t). It really sticks to the metal well and stays on the inside of the ratchet much better than straight oil and works great. All the thinner oils I've tried just seemed to run out too quickly.
Good to know. I literally got this stuff from a dealer not that exact bottle but same part number. Now that was years ago. I assume things have changed. Thanks for the info.
I’ve heard and used the 3/8 ratchet, it sounds rough I asked my buddy if he’s stomped it. That explains a lot. I like icon, but have been avoiding their ratchets.
Its hit or miss with the Icons and I think they put a bunch of misses on the shelves for that 40% off sale. My 3/8 long handle comfort grip flex-head has worked great right out of the box. Bought it about 6 months ago. The 1/4 stubby i gave up after returning it and tweaking it. The 1/4 flex-head comfort grip i bought the other day. Works great. The direction switch doesn't stick up too high like many I've seen. But its a completely different ratchet than the stubby. Its like the tekton with figure 8 cover plate.
@@JohnCorbet-w4g like you said it seems to be a real hit or miss. My ratchet does work better with a thin layer of Super Lube grease than whatever they used from the factor. Lucas freedom oil seemed to work the best though
You would think but I think they don’t really care. The grease is easy and doesn’t leak. I seen the new ones coming out are completely sealed. The oil should work a lot better in them
Someone posted on another video that Snap-On ships Super Lube NLGI 00 grease with their rebuild kits and I would bet what you have is NLGI 2 which is thicker.
Yeah, mine is NLGI 2. The funny thing is that's the tube I got from the truck. I've been trying to get the 00 but everytime it shows up its the 2. Finally just ordered some directly from Super Lube. We'll see how it goes
Super lube works fine as long as it’s a thin coat in my Icons that is. I don’t have any Tekton’s so their mechanisms are probably different. I would think that the Brands would know what works best for their ratchets.
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench the 1/4 flex-head tekton and icon internals are exactly the same (interchangeable) thats how people make the 3/8 in a 1/4 body Icon by using the Tekton small body rebuild kits
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench another tidbit you might like to know the Milwaukee ratchets and Capri CP90'S are both sealed head designs and are interchangeable 👍
No, each ratchet is different. The old Craftsmans required Swepco grease (that used to come in the repair kits) or SAE30 according to the instructions. Snap On I believe in the past would recommend soaking their ratchets in ATF overnight to free them up and make them smooth. I have used Superlube in my ratchets and it's been fine. The trick is to not overdo it because that causes them to skip and bind. A little goes a long way.
I totally agree that a lot goes a long way. I’ve been screwing around and it makes a huge difference. An old timer I was good friends with swore by ATF.
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench Most of my ratchets are USA made Sears Craftsman, but have some S-K and others in the mix. I found a Snap On 1/4" drive and a 1/2" S-K on the road a month apart driving to work one morning. Then I found the 1/2" drive S-K extension about two miles up the road, so I'm betting it came from the same shop. S-K offered a new ratchet at the time, but I told them just to send a kit. I had it fixed in ten minutes. It's a $120+ ratchet. The Snap On I think I did rebuild, but it wasn't hard to do.
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench I've found a ton of tools on the road, including a couple of Craftsman screwdrivers, a Craftsman ratchets and some sockets, some S-K as noted, some Snap On, a Kobalt or two, a Husky pliers, a 3/8 Snap On air ratchet, and you name it. I've gotten quite a few tools tossed out at the curb as well. I was washing my car the other night and my neighbor offered me his lawn mower (I haven't bought one since 1992 and I still have that one). I've fixed it for him, so I know it runs well, but he decided to get lawn service.
@@googleusergp oh man you’ve found a lot. I think I’m too busy looking for wildlife while I’m driving to ever find any tools on the road. What a great neighbor to have
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench you're welcome I've got some vintage JH Williams on my channel the s52 is the only one I can get opened up I used Super Lube on it and it works great unfortunately the s53 and B-52 ratchets I cannot get open so I soak them in ATF and that seems to work great
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench and if you think about it ratchets only need Lube to keep them running smooth and to stop corrosion not like constant velocity joints in a vehicle to where they travel at a high rate of speed that creates a lot of heat due to friction so even if a little bit of oil tends to run out of your ratchet it's really no big deal just a light thin film of oil to stop corrosion is all that's really necessary
@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench you should be able to order right from super lube website. 41160/00 for nlgi 00, 41160/0 for nlgi 0, 41160/1 for nlgi 1, 41160 for nlgi 2. The lower the number, the "thinner" it is. 2 is the most common, like what wheel bearing grease usually is.
Thank you. I tried to buy the 00 several times off of Amazon and tool sites. Every time I get 2 even though they state 00. I’ll try their website. Thanks for the info.
Haha. It’s crazy how much a difference it makes. I’m not gonna laugh at them till I try it on my Snap-on’s. Cause if it makes a big difference like the Icon I’m gonna lose a lot of respect for Snap-on
Its Taiwan frieght and they make some of the best ratchets outside the usa. China doesn't even compare. Hell the way everyone is fighting they act like Taiwan is part of the states. America has great designs but not much worker pride. Now Japan they have both to an extreme degree!
What lube do you guys use?
I use a mix of petroleum jelly & mineral oil, you can basically achieve any thickness you like by how you mix it. All my ratchets are buttery smooth.
Super lube oil. 😊
@@rawbacon thinking outside of the box. I like it
@@RJM_2023 people seem to like the super lube oil. I need to get some
Super lube OIL, and if it needs to be thicker, add a tiny smidge of Super lube grease.
A lot of people think that because snap on uses the super lube grease, that it's the best to use, but I've found out over time, that's not the case at all. I use super lube multi synthetic oil ISO 100. It's the absolute sweet spot. It's got enough viscosity to keep the ratchet lubed properly, but is thin enough to not cause stickiness or cause the ratchet to slip. The grease is just to thick for these high tooth count ratchets. The super lube multi synthetic oil ISO 100 keeps the ratchet lubed properly for extended periods of time, but is not too thick where it causes an adverse reaction. Also, if you take the spring out that pushes up against the pawl and you trim just a little bit off of it, flip the trimmed end and put the trimmed side back into the little piece that sits on top of the spring, and pushes against the pawl, it will seriously take the back drag down several inch ounces. As usual, awesome content bro!! I'm telling you, you're going to blow up!! Like I said last time, I don't think you realize how much of a natural you are at this RUclips stuff.
Thank you for all of that info. I will pick up some of that oil. I just don’t have enough experience with these higher tooth ratchets that ain’t snap on. Also I never really dove into the back drag thing like this before. I can’t say it enough I really appreciate you helping me out. I’ve learned a lot in this short while.
Second this for the super lube 100 (100-150) which is what I use on all toolbox drawer slides as well, nothing else compares from what I have used and experienced. The super lube grease in the gearwrench 120xp locks them up and same with matco, but the oil runs properly in gw, matco, mac, tekton and stays inside, I store on their sides, but have not noticed any leaks. For my snap-on I use the grease.
@@PdPuNOme thanks for the input
Excellent advice. Thank you for all of us that don't completely hate harbor freight.
Your welcome. I’m actually starting to change my opinion on the ole Harbor freight. Some stuff ain’t bad for the price. Now it ain’t no Snap-on like all the fan boys try to tell a guy. But certain tools ain’t bad for the money.
I'd like a Snap-on but even second hand they are outrageous and once HF puts them out of business everyone will be hording new old stock
I appreciate your video and letting everyone know about this. Looking forward to the video on Sunday.
Thanks for watching
Yes thank you for confirming this. Been saying this for years. These high tooth count/micro tooth ratchets need a thin oil. Regardless of what the manufacturers suggests.
You're welcome. I couldn't believe how much of a difference it makes.
Great video! I think grease is a little too thick for these high tooth count ratchets. I just use a little 3 and 1 oil in them. That torque screwdriver is the way to go for demonstrating the amount of back drag on ratchets. It would be interesting to see how the Die Hard compares to the ICON back drag.
I will get a video out testing the back drag of a lot of my ratchets. Good way to compare the smoothness.
Great video, I also remove the head and get rid of the factory washer in the flex head, then replace it with a thicker gauge lock washer. Makes the flex head way more sturdy.
Thank you. I like a stiffer flex than most. I’m always tweaking my tools.
I did the same thing to my GW 120's last week! but I used ProX Freehub oil for mountainbike hubs. Much thinner, low friction, lightweight oil. Night and day difference! I also trimmed the little springs that put tension on the pawls just the tiniest bit, maybe one coil or 1mm max. It was even better. The ratchet now has a Super light backdrag, much quiter, and zero skip or slip. You just have to be super careful with that cut. There's a very fine line between perfect and Fkd.
Good to know. Yeah I can see the spring being a delicate process. The worse thing is the icon 1/2” is a rectangle spring. If I screw it up I’m not going to find that damn thing anywhere.
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench Got that right! The 1/4" was pucker time micro surgery, I went overboard by one coil and had to steal a spring from a duplicate I was luck enough to have. I'm thinking the only way to get those springs is to get another head kit? Square spring on the big boy hey? Never seen that before? I'm a Snow Mexican, so I don't have easy access to the HF stuff🫤
@@cblack1863 haha. You have way better options than harbor freight up there. Or so I’ve been told.
Very true! Clip too far and your buttery smooth becomes oh shit on re-engagement
@@JohnCorbet-w4g exactly. Better to be safe than sorry.
Thank you for the video sir. I appreciate all the great consent, sir. I look forward to additional videos in the future. Thanks again.
Thank you for watching. I’m truly grateful all the love. Plenty of more videos on the way.
I run what is used in bicycles. I have a small container of DT Swiss grease for rear bike hubs. FYI bike rear hubs are pretty much ratchets. There's also thinner greases such as Slickoleum and Buzzy's slick honey which are available at bike shops/online stores.
I’ve been hearing that a lot. I would’ve never thought of bike hub lube. Thanks for the info
Ive worked as a bicycle mechanic full time for years and occasionally for a couple decades now. The bike lube guys crack me up. For the most part, its just waterproof trailer bearing grease repackaged and sold at an insane mark up. Dont believe me? Go spend $14 on a small tube of park tools bike grease and a $7 tube of blue trailer bearing grease at the parts store that goes in a grease gun. 3x the product, at half the price. Same with rock and roll and whoever else is marketing the red grease. I do love the little bottle of triflow with the straw in it though.
@@aaadamt964 good info to know
@@aaadamt964 I agree with the repackaging and rebranding of greases out there. However there are different viscosities of grease. I use marine grease for loose bearings but for fork seals and rear hubs that calls for something way thinner. If there's an alternative for something small and more affordable out there I'd like to know.
Seriously underrated channel bro
Thank you. Glad you’re enjoying it.
Nice!! Thanks for the update!!
You're welcome. I'm glad this solved my issues.
The chapman bit set setting of to the right is just making me smile!!
@@CPthetooladdict You know it. It hangs out in my “den” room exclusively. But I didn’t have the right torx in the shop for these dang Icons.
Timely video with all the 40% off Icon ratchets that sold last month. Sending these out either bone dry, missing a washer, or packed with the wrong lube isnt a good look for HF's top tier brand.
Subbed to help get you to 1000!
Thanks for the sub. The 40% off is the only reason I tried them. Off the shelf I’m not a fan. But I did a few tweaks and the 1/2” flex is pretty good
Superlube also makes a lubricating oil. Ironically triflow and superlube are my 2 favorite spray lubes.
I really like triflow for cleaning tight joints. It literally flows the dirt and grime right out.
Every ratchet, I own, I put a thin layer, of wheel bearing grease on the gears inside. Never had an issue with it
Thin is key
As wrench driver for work and a bicycle repair guy at home. I can tell you that TriFlow is used by every Bicycle repair guy I know or have watched on RUclips! From cables to chains it flows great and sticks to the parts well! I would think that inside a ratchet is fine and will try it this weekend on my old Craftsmen or SnapOn handles?
I really like the TriFlow for cleaning. It get into tight spots and flows the dirt and grime right out. It blows my mind on how well it works.
Hello Two Turtles and a Wrench
I just found your channel and subscribed. I enjoyed watching tonight's video. Thank you 😊
Thank you for stopping by. Glad you enjoyed it. I appreciate you subscribing. Have a great evening.
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench Hello again, Two Turtles and a Wrench.
Thank you, kindly 😊
I’ve used white lithium grease in my Snap-On ratchets because it’s been on hand.
I used one of my 1/4” ratchets to crack bleeder screws and noticed after a weekend of not using, the gears were seized. Brake fluid will wreck them as it absorbs moisture. Took it apart and used white lithium. Still going strong.
I’ve ruined ratcheting wrenches doing the same thing. Now I primarily use just a regular wrench
Quick and Dirty haha But you are cleaning them.... I have one of my older snap on that is starting to do this... Maybe its time to tear it down and re grease or possibly oil?
Definitely time to clean the old gal. I haven't tried oil in my Snap-on yet. Let me know how it turns out.
Lucas HD gun oil as it is used on phosphate parts anyway. Been through this a year ago. 90 up I use oil. Less teeth I use grease. Gearwrench 120xp loves superlube!! As it's really a 60t anvil dual pawl system. Also, Lucas is thicker so bleeds a little less
Thank you for the feedback. I have Lucas on hand so that works perfectly. Thanks for all the help
@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench the HD blue stuff it great
@@ShawnC8030 I can confirm the Lucas does a great job
Great subject my friend!! I even use ATF on some ratchets,depends on the tooth count!! Ill be giving your channel a shout out today!! I have 8K in subs,I think you'll get some coming over!! Take care my friend!
Thank you. I truly appreciate it. An old timer I knew use to dip his ratchets and old school ratcheting wrenches in atf. He always said “It cleans em then lubes em. What more do you want”
I’ve considered using that too.
KoKen calls for a light oil rather than grease. So my ratchets get STIHL chain oil. And those KoKens came from the factory dry as the Sahara
Good to know. I have never touched my koken. But I haven't had it very long maybe a year now. Sounds like I need to oil it. Thanks for letting me know
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench anytime 🤝
Yes Kokens are like sewing machines. Best tolerances and finest machining in the tool business. They also have that stacked single pawl (i guess thats what you call it) that would probably stick together with a thick grease. Never had to do anything to my Kokens - except look inside 😂
@@JohnCorbet-w4g same. I cracked it open just to see how they work. I did add a bit of Lucas though.
Hey Turtle, New Subscriber!
Thank you. I out here trying to help people the best I can
I've started using WD-40 Gel Spray Lube in all of my high tooth count ratchets (72t to 90t). It really sticks to the metal well and stays on the inside of the ratchet much better than straight oil and works great. All the thinner oils I've tried just seemed to run out too quickly.
@@shadow7796 I’ll check that out. Regular oil in the Icon does seep out pretty good
I had the same problem with my 84 tooth gear wrench. I Wiped out the grease. Then I put super lube oil in it. Fixed the problem and it’s perfect.
Hell yeah. Couldn’t believe how much it made a difference.
Snap On uses SuperLube NLGI 00 grease. The SuperLube that you have is NGLI 2. Huge difference.
Good to know. I literally got this stuff from a dealer not that exact bottle but same part number. Now that was years ago. I assume things have changed. Thanks for the info.
What do you call that tool to test the back drag, i want to buy one
Seekonk dial torque screwdriver. Just so you know they are pricey
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench thank you
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench you were right, too pricey just to test my old ratchets, i think i'll make my own using the koken as a base line lol.
@@ElMesondeHerramientas-nn6di HAHAHA
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrenchim.a subscriber now you responded so quick. Thanks
I’ve been using Slip 2000 because I have it on hand.
Now you’re talking. I just tried some Lucas freedom oil and it works great.
I put syl glide in my icons and its been holding up. Not sure about back drag in oz's but feels smooth lol
Numbers are just relative. Feeling good and it not turning a lose nut the wrong way while using it is all that matters
I’ve heard and used the 3/8 ratchet, it sounds rough I asked my buddy if he’s stomped it. That explains a lot. I like icon, but have been avoiding their ratchets.
The gears themselves aren't machined the best either
Its hit or miss with the Icons and I think they put a bunch of misses on the shelves for that 40% off sale.
My 3/8 long handle comfort grip flex-head has worked great right out of the box. Bought it about 6 months ago.
The 1/4 stubby i gave up after returning it and tweaking it.
The 1/4 flex-head comfort grip i bought the other day.
Works great. The direction switch doesn't stick up too high like many I've seen. But its a completely different ratchet than the stubby. Its like the tekton with figure 8 cover plate.
I have been using the Superlube grease pictured here without any problems.
@@JohnCorbet-w4g like you said it seems to be a real hit or miss. My ratchet does work better with a thin layer of Super Lube grease than whatever they used from the factor. Lucas freedom oil seemed to work the best though
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench i seen another video where you used ceramic media in a vibratory tumbler. That didn't wear down the gears did it?
Isn't this the type of thing the icon manufacturers should have already tested. They should have hired you Sir.
You would think but I think they don’t really care. The grease is easy and doesn’t leak. I seen the new ones coming out are completely sealed. The oil should work a lot better in them
I’ve wondered if KPL would be good for lube. It’s supposed to cause dirt and debris move away from the working parts of knife pivots so?
I don’t know much about it. Probably would work. I’ll see if I can get some
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench it’s not super cheap but a little goes a long way
@@darrenhays021 good to know. Probably work real well breaking in Snap-on pliers
Someone posted on another video that Snap-On ships Super Lube NLGI 00 grease with their rebuild kits and I would bet what you have is NLGI 2 which is thicker.
Yeah, mine is NLGI 2. The funny thing is that's the tube I got from the truck. I've been trying to get the 00 but everytime it shows up its the 2. Finally just ordered some directly from Super Lube. We'll see how it goes
Tekton provides superlube grease just like you have there with their rebuild kits
Super lube works fine as long as it’s a thin coat in my Icons that is. I don’t have any Tekton’s so their mechanisms are probably different. I would think that the Brands would know what works best for their ratchets.
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench the 1/4 flex-head tekton and icon internals are exactly the same (interchangeable) thats how people make the 3/8 in a 1/4 body Icon by using the Tekton small body rebuild kits
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench another tidbit you might like to know the Milwaukee ratchets and Capri CP90'S are both sealed head designs and are interchangeable 👍
No, each ratchet is different. The old Craftsmans required Swepco grease (that used to come in the repair kits) or SAE30 according to the instructions. Snap On I believe in the past would recommend soaking their ratchets in ATF overnight to free them up and make them smooth.
I have used Superlube in my ratchets and it's been fine. The trick is to not overdo it because that causes them to skip and bind. A little goes a long way.
I totally agree that a lot goes a long way. I’ve been screwing around and it makes a huge difference. An old timer I was good friends with swore by ATF.
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench Most of my ratchets are USA made Sears Craftsman, but have some S-K and others in the mix. I found a Snap On 1/4" drive and a 1/2" S-K on the road a month apart driving to work one morning. Then I found the 1/2" drive S-K extension about two miles up the road, so I'm betting it came from the same shop.
S-K offered a new ratchet at the time, but I told them just to send a kit. I had it fixed in ten minutes. It's a $120+ ratchet. The Snap On I think I did rebuild, but it wasn't hard to do.
What a find. Can't beat that. The only time I found a tool on the road it was in my tire. A 7/16 channel lock wrench.
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench I've found a ton of tools on the road, including a couple of Craftsman screwdrivers, a Craftsman ratchets and some sockets, some S-K as noted, some Snap On, a Kobalt or two, a Husky pliers, a 3/8 Snap On air ratchet, and you name it. I've gotten quite a few tools tossed out at the curb as well.
I was washing my car the other night and my neighbor offered me his lawn mower (I haven't bought one since 1992 and I still have that one). I've fixed it for him, so I know it runs well, but he decided to get lawn service.
@@googleusergp oh man you’ve found a lot. I think I’m too busy looking for wildlife while I’m driving to ever find any tools on the road. What a great neighbor to have
You got a new Sub I use little ATF with my Super Lube but ya lighter oil for fine tooth ratchets is your best bet
Thank you for the sub. And thanks for the advice too
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench you're welcome I've got some vintage JH Williams on my channel the s52 is the only one I can get opened up I used Super Lube on it and it works great unfortunately the s53 and B-52 ratchets I cannot get open so I soak them in ATF and that seems to work great
@@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench and if you think about it ratchets only need Lube to keep them running smooth and to stop corrosion not like constant velocity joints in a vehicle to where they travel at a high rate of speed that creates a lot of heat due to friction so even if a little bit of oil tends to run out of your ratchet it's really no big deal just a light thin film of oil to stop corrosion is all that's really necessary
Thanks for all the info. Learning a lot in these comments
I use the old kerosene and atf fluid formula.
Haven’t heard that option yet but I like it
how about Marvel's mystery oil?
It came out at 8.25. So really good
Super lube does make different thickness
I just have a hard time finding any
@TwoTurtlesAndAWrench you should be able to order right from super lube website. 41160/00 for nlgi 00, 41160/0 for nlgi 0, 41160/1 for nlgi 1, 41160 for nlgi 2. The lower the number, the "thinner" it is.
2 is the most common, like what wheel bearing grease usually is.
Thank you. I tried to buy the 00 several times off of Amazon and tool sites. Every time I get 2 even though they state 00. I’ll try their website. Thanks for the info.
👋
Marvel Mystery oil
I think Marvel would do great. I'll try it out
🤣🤣🤣 china freight boys have to do oil changes on their ratchets now? Should of bought USA made.
Haha. It’s crazy how much a difference it makes. I’m not gonna laugh at them till I try it on my Snap-on’s. Cause if it makes a big difference like the Icon I’m gonna lose a lot of respect for Snap-on
Its Taiwan frieght and they make some of the best ratchets outside the usa. China doesn't even compare. Hell the way everyone is fighting they act like Taiwan is part of the states. America has great designs but not much worker pride. Now Japan they have both to an extreme degree!
You do with snapon too when the rebuild or fix it