Testing Different Chrome Spray Paint
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
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The ironlak is a graffiti bombing paint and comes with a fat cap and also a higher pressure than normal spray cans. This is for fast coverage of larger areas. If you try a soft cap you might get better results.
Those new airbrushes look sweet. Can't wait to see tests.
Love the information as always, you have upped my airbrush game tons.
Golly, I love those Gaalheria trigger or pistol air brushes.
To bad about those chrome spray cans and that little bottle of Burnt Chrome as you called.
Oh well im getting back to bench.
Looking forward to next video. As always.
I finally managed to snag a bottle of your 2K black gloss. Cant wait to try it out!
I recently bought your Copper Fire paint and used it on a 68 Charger R/T, and then like in your video did a top coat of the clear red from Tamiya. I took pictures but man it doesn't do that color any justice. Still need to top coat it but I'm loving the results. Your paint sprayed on beautifully and I was running it through a cheap gun with a .3 at around 25 or 28 psi. I plan on buying a few more of the color line including the dark aluminum to do light switch covers of all things! lol.
That's a great color combo. So glad you like my paints. Pictures never do the colors justice
Nice little informational video Robert an thanks for the informational video I don't think I'll be buying any of those chrome spray cans an thanks for the time an effort you invest into making are videos I appreciate them 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video. Love the new Snake Collection have to order one. Have a great week.
I'll stick with Revell chrome. It costs a small fortune, but I'm still on my first can and have used it on multiple kits with great success! Great video, as always.
I had just seen that Gaahleri set just before I put your video here. Very nice set! Started to order it, but it looks too nice to get dirty 😉
Hey - Walmart has Nesco food dehydrators for $50. They're smaller and digital. For those looking to get one with a smaller footprint.
Sorry been away so long. 😞
I appreciate the tip! Thank you.
I tested the Ironlak a couple years ago and got the same results as you.
I tested the Spaz Stix Gloss Black Base on some Walmart spoons and it wrinkled up like a 60s/70s vinyl car top. When I sprayed the Spaz Stix on Evergreen plastic it laid down smooth and looked good. I had the same results with Revell's gloss black so it seems some paints do not like some plastics.
I wish you'd do a top 5 or 3 chrome paint for airbrushing video.
Thanks, Robert.
I looked up the Oh So Chrome to see what is going on with it. It looks like you heat the surface, then apply the chrome, then heat it with a butane flame, then apply a varnish. You were doing it right but not sure how they expect you to use it with wood or plastic, which they advertise you can use it on. If you ever buy a non chrome Joe Satriani guitar, maybe you could chrome it with what you have left in the bottle.
Thank you for Saving this poor guy money and testing the spray cans!!!!!! I am still convinced that alclad is still superior to all tested. I still have trouble at times with the alclad! Thank you again!
Always have issues just less with alcald. Right now having clear coat gloss issues. It came out sticky or clouded.
@@dim1723 I read somewhere to try the Alclad Aqua Gloss: apparently less impact on the chrome look.
I am doing a project that requires a sort of close to chrome polished aluminum look.
I have tried many different so called chrome color cans and many of them do come close to looking like chrome. The problem with these paints is that it sprays as a thick film on your part that takes forever to cure and is prone to scratch easily which is not good of course because of that thickness. Those are off the shelf products. Good products but not good for what i need it to do.
Now... after trying all of these chrome spray. I landed on spaz stix.
My finding with spazstix is that so far it is the best chrome paint ( emphasis on so far ) It sprays on very thin so the details are kept even after several coats. It was sprayed over Tamiya gloss black. It dries very quickly and good to go in short while. I tried a light coat and did not like it and then i went the full opposite way and sprayed on several heavy coats and it just looked better. It covers well also.
You can spray it heavy or light. In my test i preferred heavy because it looked better with no real loss of detail.
You got to shake the can for a while to produce good results.
The fan nozzle is actually very good. It sprayed on better than any off the shelf cans i used. It just felt that it sprayed "even" and not once was there any drips or uneven blotchy spray coming out. I attribute that to the nozzle so it is good.
Spazstix is cloudy when dried. It has to be buffed a bit to clear the cloudiness and make it more chrome like and this is true as tested by myself.
I sprayed it with floor was and it took it no problem. It slightly made it dull but i attribute the dullness to the floor shine and not it attacking the paint under.
It reflects a lot like chrome should. If you do the close up finger test it comes out as very impressive. It never is gonna be real mirror chrome for that price but it is very decent.
Overall and for the price and so far, spazstix was the best. It is cheap, does a good job as a spray can, so if you don't want to deal with airbrushing this, i'd buy one for a test drive. I need to test it with alclad's gloss paints protector products to see how it would turn out.
However i am not fully settled on it yet.
I have to find another source of gloss black as these tamiya cans are now/still banned in Canada ( last i heard ) but spazstix sell their own black gloss base so it might work out anyway.
I will order some lexan alclad and see how it turns out. It might do the trick or not.
The lexan might edge the spazstix.
nuff said.
another great video robert. too bad those chromes didn't pan out, on the brighter side those are a couple of sexy airguns!
Nothing beats Alclad and Ultralumen
you need to really shake the ironlak for a while to get best results. its best to put it in one of the Sawzall attachment paint shakers for a few minutes. it turns it from gloopy to much more even spraying. its not as bas as Steel-It paint or alumahyde 2, but it needs quite a bit of agitation. its also high pressure graff paint you need to experiment with the various types of cap to get the effect on small stuff.
I can’t wait for their new water base paint from gaahleri ! Hopefully it will be a game changer
I think with aerosol cans, you get an initial dose of propellant before material fully fills the dip tube. Maybe try to fully spray off the surface & make a fast pass back & forth while keeping the nozzle depressed. Its just a different spray technique.....🤔
Can't beat revell crome you can clear it with valagio water based clear coat 👌 😉
That paint may be a ceramic glaze that has to be fired in a kiln. My Mom owned a ceramic shop for over 20 years and had many kilns in different sizes for different firings. My favorite was firing decals on glass jars. 👍🏻😁
Saw a video for the Oh So Chrome where they brushed it on ceramic and hit it with heat immediately. Produced a nice chrome finish. For whatever reason it didn’t pool on the ceramic.
I’ve used ironlak several times, I works for me
Those were gorgeous looking airbrushes. I wonder if they make them in blue (my favorite color).
Nicely done Sir. Could you by chance post a video on the best way to decant spray cans?
I did a video on that
Perhaps instead of a torch maybe try a heat gun! Loved the demos, more stuff to avoid or adopt for other uses!
To do it on plastic without melting it 1st pre heat the solution and use a proper heat gun stable for plastic models ... you have to be fast in the application.
Color shot shiny mettalic has been the best rattle can chrome effect I've found yet,found it at michaels .I recently tried that ironlak and the tip leaked and just made a huge mess,smelled horrible too 🤮 Ive held off on buying a good spraybooth,searching for the best one🤔Love your videos buddy,always great content 👍
How do those spray cans hold up to clear coat?
Only found 2 other videos of the Oh So Chrome, one on glass, the other ceramic. Both of them looked like they also burned initially, and you keep applying the heat past the burn effect to get the chrome. Still useless for plastics, and the beading was super weird. Thanks for the tests though!
I didn't know alclad came in a spray can. Might have to order some.
Looks like Revell Chrom is still the go-to unless you can get hold of Spaz Stix, which I can’t where I live.
For spray can tests would it be more feasible to put the spoon or subject into some sort of holder and move it as far into the booth as possible while moving back as far as possible without the spray escaping the booth? I'd think that would help even out the uncontrollable pressure and paint delivery.
What about warming the object in warm/ hot water? Also the same for the paint?
Awesome video! Been following you for a long time picking up tips and it has made my airbrushing for gunpla much better! Hoping that your next video is the spray booth one! Been waiting to get a new one but waiting to see how this new spray booth you got does!
Tried using a heat gun for the heating aspect?
Gotta say you’re very prolific. Just wondering, of all the chromes you’ve tried which one is your favorite? Would like to get a complete list of all your favorites in order. Nonetheless, as always, wonderful informative video.
I'd say Alclad, Ultralumen, SMS and Gaia are the best chromes.
How would you clear coat the chrome or candy?
2K
On the one hand, disappointing that other options for chrome are so lackluster (pun intended). On the other hand, getting to say "I'm going to go paint, where's the blowtorch?" is hilarous.
I'm new to airbrushing I've been waiting a bunch of your videos quite helpful i might add I've been practicing with cheap acrylic paint from Micheal's and was wondering if you would test the folkart clear primer in a airbrush
I will check that out
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Have you ever tested any laquer candys 's over glass or plexi? I've been researching this for years, to paint 12v 27W auto bulbs in amber/orange & red that aren't available in a certain specialty bulb. Only brand made can't be imported from Europe called Hatolite Bulb Laquer Paint. I may start to test Duplicolor Metalcast & some others. Have you ever tested Duplicolor Metalcast ?
Does the paint have to stand up to heat? The heat of the bulb or that doesn't matter if it's a turn signel light?
@@barbatosrex9473 Well yes or kinda yes depending on if the bulb is wired as a signal or as a running tail light intermittent brake. But one configuration would use this very specific & specialty bulb like a conventional 1157, but would be wired using a type of aftermarket D R L module that makes the bulb run the high signal filament constantly as a Daytime Running Light & amber color far surpasses conspicuity vs. all other white drl's on every new car, but Kia, Hyundai, & Dodge Chargers are now the ones to start using amber for drl. You can see those cars coming a mile away. This specialty bulb we've debated to make amber is much brighter & more effective than a conventional 1157 at 32 Candlepower & is 45 Candlepower about 29W, but does not come in amber or red. I never ran heat bench tests on the bulb yet, but I bet it could to be around 175F. To aid in addeasion to glass I think Armour Etch gacid glass etch used in hobby & crafts would give the paint something to adhere to. DupliColor Metalcast is rated to 500F, but not sure if the orange is the correct color for an amber bulb. The famous bulb paints for stage theatrics lighting had road spectrum of tinted clears, but long disscontinued by Rosco & was called Colorine used for 40W stage bulbs contained a toxic formula & probably why Hatolite bulb paint can't be imported. I think old bulb paints were Nitocellulose, like guitar laquers, which is another possibility if the Metalcast Copper Amber isn't the correct color for a turn signal amber bulb due to specific lighting regulations & safety for conspicuity , but I bet a few coats can get the correct hue hopefully not reducing lumen candle power. Maybe a light coat of their ed with orange on top could get the right amber hue, so that could be the trick. The hobby candy you use seem to be a better color if they are llaquer that can resist heat.
This specialty incandescent bulb is far better than junk Led bulbs that are not photometically compatible for lamp reflectors that were designed for incandescent bulbs geometry & lens optics. Its technical, but those who do led retrofits put themselves in danger as the light doesnt efecively work in a lamp at realistic distances of 100' off angle like a brake light, but they are the worst upgrade for safety.
Anyway, This very unknown bulb upgrade is known by a limited few & some others in he classic cars who are deep into improving & enhancing auto lighting & it was an o.e. bulb# made especially to Honda's specs for some 1990's Honda's & had incredible engineering behind it by the best bulb mfg. in the world, Stanley Electric of Japan. Nothing to do with Stanley tool. So the debate was to find a bulb tinted bulb laquer that would work.
I also closely keep tabs on your chrome painting as the better the chrome finish from a paint leads me to believe the purer & finer sub micron aluminum powder used in those paints. This can be vey effectively used to restore lamp reflector buckets to optical grade reflection as aluminum has the highest Light Reflective Value at 90% which is why the o.e. has used Vapor Deposited Aluminum on car reflectors for 100ys, " prior it was silver plating which has the highest reflectivity at 95% but would tarnish on 1900's-1940's cars but could be reshined like silverware! Sorry about the ocd post.
The moral of the story is to make older cars signal lights really shine & enhance the beauty of the lamps like the incredible led lights of new cars which have incredible optical engineering in them.😎
new spray booth you say?
I’m hoping it’s the one he bought from USA Gundam Store, I’m working with a DIY home special right now lmao 😂 and wanting a good one but I have a tight space to work with so if his next video is the spray booth and it works well and gets his approval, I’m ordering as soon as the video is finished 😁
These chrome spray cans never seem to work very well. The Revell looks awesome, but you can’t even look at it sideways without blemishing it 🤷🏻♂️. Great tests, as always!
I might be wrong but I think one time in one of your videos that for tamiya arcrylic paint did you say to clean the rim of the top of the jar with iso alcohol to keep the air from getting them? I can’t remember exactly but it was something like that because some of my tamiya acrylic paints the lids are a bit tight and I think the air has gotten into them
Yeah they have to be super clean
@ thank you
I recently had an acrylic sign project that required many different colors so I got 7 different colors of ironclad the color and coverage is fantastic but the nozzles all spit and dripped and almost ruined the project
I might ues them for candy's
I assume you cleaned item of grease
How come you didn't do the other three cans over a black base to see what that would look like
I did behind the scenes, no difference. One of the spoons I showed for each one was over black, as you can see no different
Not video related but I just got your text airbrush and was wondering what you use to hold it mid painting
amzn.to/411naf3
@barbatosrex9473 thanks it's a stunning airbrush tho
KRYLON has worked well of me with a gloss black base coat it just looks better....
Does anybody know of a good matte finish brand that works for action figures?
I have used Vallejo
@@johnlanger7852 Thanks for the info.
Alcald matt clear finish
Thanks, I appreciate it.
I just wished that you would have tied today's three cans on the black spoon to see.
The prime reason I like to decant spary cans is the knozzle performance. I have never found a store bought spray can that was true chrome.
My high school best friend is a rattle can freak. He will spray can almost anything or anyone. 😂🤣
I never like spray cans and now that I know about decanting, I will be getting the swallowtail and repainting several items that desperately need it. 👍🏻😁
Try Revell Chron. No difference between out of the can and airbrush.
Revell Chrom
Too bad there aren't good options for those who need to use cans. Good that the result is nice used under a candy.
It looks like it just evaporated immediately, almost like it doesn't have any paint in it. Maybe it's a dud bottle.
для моделинга наилучший хром это от revell
The products sucks but overall outstanding video, Thumbs up though
Sorry spelt that wrong disslecsic🙃🤣🥴❤
You dont shake Maybe it’s Help
First
I’m a turbo dork