Spot on, I also would say it's the user, not the camera or the lens. I like to test my lenses and and review my settings to make sure I am NOT making any mistakes when shooting. When I don't get a nice shot I've found out 99% of the time it's me.
Really glad I found this video. Was very helpful when i encountered some problems. Also like your camera choice while filming because it’s the same as mine. I would recommend adding the camera you use maybe in the description or in your title because I often search videos with my particular camera because I find that it’s easier to follow. Thank you and I hope you keep making more!
Wow, thanks so much for breaking this down. Never knew that I needed to break down those components separately. I've been so caught up on the exposure triangle and now this 😂 many thanks I do have questions regarding my 70D,but I'll reach out to you on that. Thank you!
Rookie question: When you said that shutter speed should be the inverse of focal length, should I take the 1.6 crop factor into account? So, if I'm using a 50mm lens, would my shutter speed need to be at least 1/50 or at least 1/80? Thanks for all the awesome videos!
Always helpful information Mike. Appreciate your information and outlines all the time. Just one comment: At 4:44 of your video Typo "Test sevral lenses". Keep up the helpful work.
Look forward to the micro adjusting video. I've watched quite a few videos and it seems like no one ever talks about micro adjusting a zoom lens such as the 70-200. If that is something you could touch on, that would be great.
My cannon 90d is brand new and put it into restore factory but my 60d cannon still takes from sharp images but 😭 canon 😔90d take pictures like I'm doing photography from cellphone help me out in it 💔
Yes happened with my 90D. Changed all my settings as I had on my previous camera, went out to shoot ducks and my focus was soft and inconsistent. Found that I left it in one shot and forgot to set it to AI Servo.
do lenses stop focusing after a length of time? i have a sigma 24-70 which is probably 20 years old now,and it's not focusing sharply on the subject anymore...
Please help me .My 18_55mm lens doesn't focusing and can't shoot a photo , I turned one the AF . As its focus when I use différents lens. What is the problème ?Thank you
Michael, the last point you mentioned, trying a different lens of the same type. So if we conclude that the other lens is not having a lot of problem with the defaults AFMA setting set to 0 it menas the problem is with the original lens. So it means that it should be serviced? What can happen if a lens goes in for service with the issue being labelled as needs big AFMA setting? Has this happened to you Can you share your experience? What was the problem and what was the fix? TIA
Minimal AFMA corrections typically don’t indicate a lens issue if it’s working once they are made. The problems come when you’re not able to focus no matter what you do and then you should send it in
@@MMaven I see. Thanks for replying. The thing is that I find this thing with AFMA bogus for the reasons explained above. Additionally, for example I am facing an issue with the AFMA and my 85mm f1.2L II. At working distance I get one setting at recommended 3.7m I get another. In between I get another which is a compromise between the working distance and recommended adjustment distance. This using FoCal. Nevertheless, fr thos whom use the lens at minimum focusing distance, average working distance and even at those 3.7m there is inconsistency in the IQ of the imagine. Don't know if this is a characteristic of the lens, aperture or a problem with the camera, since it is an old 6D.
Hi Michael, I tested my new Canon 90D with the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 and the focus is soft when I use the viewfinder. However, when I use the live view is tack sharp. I think I need to micro adjust this lens. What are your thoughts? Thank you so much for all of your help!
I would add one more test at the very end to see if you need micro adjustments to the lens. My experience with a 6D Mark II and a Sigma 85mm Art, is that you need to setup a test, using a single focus point, not single point spot AF, and compare the sharpness of that picture to the sharpness of the same short using DPAF and the viewscreen. The Camera needs to be on a Tripod, at ISO 100, largest aperture, in this case f1.4 . You will also need a slanted target used for adjusting the lens. Take several pictures. The DPAF should be sharp, since the focus is done by the sensor itself and not a separate focus system. When I started this test, the Sigma was focusing about 1 to 2 cm in front of the target from about 2 meters away. DFAF was spot on. The bad news is that with this Sigma Lens, the focal plan would jump around in the range of 1 cm no matter what I tried. By f2 to f2.2 the issue is not visible. These micro adjustment issues show up when the depth of field is narrow. Narrow depth of field is caused by, Large Aperture like f1.4, being very close to a subject (Macro photography) and a long focal Length, wildlife lenses. So if you are using the kit lens, or even something like 24 to 105 f4, the issue is most likely somewhere else.
Exactly - there's no way around it. Off-sensor focusing will almost always be less consistent, unlike sensor-based focusing (DSLR in Live View mode or mirrorless cameras). I had 50mm f/1.8 and when shooting through viewfinder, the focus "jumped" a bit on every half-press. When I stopped it down to f/3.5, the problem was gone. The off-sensor module simply couldn't handle such a shallow depth-of-field.
All good points. However, a caveat should be added that a sub $1000 (approx) DSLR cannot be micro-adjusted. I have 2 older DSLRs that front focus that have nothing to do with the other points and all testing has proven it to be down to micro-adjusting which cannon be adjusted on nearly all sub $1000 DSLRs (depending on where you might buy it from. That is when you may be wasting your money, buying a camera (DSLR) that cannot be micro-adjusted). That is when my mirrorless excels (on-sensor focusing).
The workaround is to simply use Live View when using the problematic lens, essentially turning your DSLR into mirrorless. I had to use it with f/2.8 or faster lenses.
@@timelord2222 Good thinking but this is not possible as live view in many older DSLRs is unusable (2 to 4 seconds...useless) Canons dual pixel autofocus makes this possible but Canon and Nikon still have, and have had, many DSLRs incapable of being used in live view(in good practical use). I have felt sorry for many DSLR buyers who became aware of this issue over the past few years, unfortunately, pro photographers often fail to highlight the lack of micro-adjustment in DSLRs(it should be mandatory :-)...especially when demonstrating the off-sensor phase detect that DSLRs (generally under $1000) use. It may be worth mentioning that I have a very technical background but it wouldn't be worth me going to far into it here.
@@darlingtoncd Yes, but those cameras with limited Live View are extremely old. Even the old Canon 650D can use Live View indefinitely. Nikon has another problem - on their cheaper DSLRs, you can't set the aperture while in Live View.
@@timelord2222 Unfortunately that's not the case. The 550d doesn't have dual pixel...no good for live view use (2 to 4 seconds + to focus). Even now Canon sells the 2000d (digic 4 processor) and 4000d(same) - again not dual pixel which is an absolute must-have for live view use: through the viewfinder use...ok but if you get one requiring micro-adjustment (out of luck). As an example, beware of pro reviews: if a Canon 5dmk V did not have the micro-adjustment capability, there would be an uproar amongst pro photographers with probably, next to, zero sales to follow. I do feel sorry for the entry-level consumer who has, and still may, invest in a camera (system) that is older in spec and underperforms...caveat depending on how the user wants to use it.
@@darlingtoncd I use 700D without dual pixel just fine in live view. But I'm a landscape photographer, to be clear - for moving subjects it's good to have
Mike, I love you videos, but I don't buy into the notion that older lenses can't resolve the high megapixels. I've seen several older lenses (over 10 years old) work great on the D850 and the Canon 50R. And it's not just beginners that forget to change their settings, lots of pros do it as well, probably not as often, but they do.
It has less to do with age and more to do with resolving power. Primes Are almost universally sharper than zooms so yes it would stand to reason that an older prime would still have enough resolving power.
I could not find on U tube why you have the title "Maven" so I must take it as self promotion. I rarely respond to sites that are really off the mark on what they present as fact , but as you are purporting to give beginner and novice photographers the "best way" to do something that is not valid I must take exception to your presentation. You are correct in that an out of focus image is caused either by the lense or the camera operator. Since the latter has many possibilities for the problem it is logical and much easier to eliminate the former, the lens. Put the camera with the suspect lens on a tripod, set the lens to f8, the shutter to 500 and ISO to auto and set the focus with auto focus. If you have an SLR lock the mirror up. Take the image using the time release set for 5 seconds. Repeat the procedure but this time use manual focus using the rear screen. Compare the two images on your computer. If the two are the same or if the camera auto is better than manual you have eliminated the lense/camera partnership. If manual is better then the camera has a problem. If neither is sharp the lens has a problem. If both are sharp, you have the problem.
Peter Hill oh sadly, that won’t do Peter. You will need to make a video about it, and put your face on it. Present yourself & ideas to the world for scrutiny. This way others like yourself can address & (attempt to) criticize the way you have me. Then you will have the answers to these other, non-relevant questions you think matter. Let us know when it’s posted. Thank you.
Spot on, I also would say it's the user, not the camera or the lens. I like to test my lenses and and review my settings to make sure I am NOT making any mistakes when shooting. When I don't get a nice shot I've found out 99% of the time it's me.
Really glad I found this video. Was very helpful when i encountered some problems. Also like your camera choice while filming because it’s the same as mine. I would recommend adding the camera you use maybe in the description or in your title because I often search videos with my particular camera because I find that it’s easier to follow. Thank you and I hope you keep making more!
Wow, thanks so much for breaking this down. Never knew that I needed to break down those components separately. I've been so caught up on the exposure triangle and now this 😂 many thanks I do have questions regarding my 70D,but I'll reach out to you on that. Thank you!
My 70D still going strong 💪🏽 bro.
Rookie question: When you said that shutter speed should be the inverse of focal length, should I take the 1.6 crop factor into account? So, if I'm using a 50mm lens, would my shutter speed need to be at least 1/50 or at least 1/80? Thanks for all the awesome videos!
You are the best!!!!
Always helpful information Mike. Appreciate your information and outlines all the time. Just one comment: At 4:44 of your video Typo "Test sevral lenses". Keep up the helpful work.
Look forward to the micro adjusting video. I've watched quite a few videos and it seems like no one ever talks about micro adjusting a zoom lens such as the 70-200. If that is something you could touch on, that would be great.
My cannon 90d is brand new and put it into restore factory but my 60d cannon still takes from sharp images but 😭 canon 😔90d take pictures like I'm doing photography from cellphone help me out in it 💔
Yes happened with my 90D. Changed all my settings as I had on my previous camera, went out to shoot ducks and my focus was soft and inconsistent. Found that I left it in one shot and forgot to set it to AI Servo.
Thank you Mr Michael
I really have a problem with my 85mm not focusing far distance subject
do lenses stop focusing after a length of time? i have a sigma 24-70 which is probably 20 years old now,and it's not focusing sharply on the subject anymore...
Nice informative video...
Please help me .My 18_55mm lens doesn't focusing and can't shoot a photo , I turned one the AF . As its focus when I use différents lens. What is the problème ?Thank you
Michael, the last point you mentioned, trying a different lens of the same type. So if we conclude that the other lens is not having a lot of problem with the defaults AFMA setting set to 0 it menas the problem is with the original lens. So it means that it should be serviced? What can happen if a lens goes in for service with the issue being labelled as needs big AFMA setting? Has this happened to you Can you share your experience? What was the problem and what was the fix? TIA
Minimal AFMA corrections typically don’t indicate a lens issue if it’s working once they are made. The problems come when you’re not able to focus no matter what you do and then you should send it in
@@MMaven I see. Thanks for replying. The thing is that I find this thing with AFMA bogus for the reasons explained above. Additionally, for example I am facing an issue with the AFMA and my 85mm f1.2L II. At working distance I get one setting at recommended 3.7m I get another. In between I get another which is a compromise between the working distance and recommended adjustment distance. This using FoCal.
Nevertheless, fr thos whom use the lens at minimum focusing distance, average working distance and even at those 3.7m there is inconsistency in the IQ of the imagine. Don't know if this is a characteristic of the lens, aperture or a problem with the camera, since it is an old 6D.
Hi Michael,
I tested my new Canon 90D with the Sigma 17-50mm f2.8 and the focus is soft when I use the viewfinder. However, when I use the live view is tack sharp. I think I need to micro adjust this lens. What are your thoughts?
Thank you so much for all of your help!
Definitely sounds like it
@@MMaven, thanks for replying! Looking forward to your AF micro adjustment video 👍
Have you checked the diopter adjustment on your viewfinder?
I would add one more test at the very end to see if you need micro adjustments to the lens. My experience with a 6D Mark II and a Sigma 85mm Art, is that you need to setup a test, using a single focus point, not single point spot AF, and compare the sharpness of that picture to the sharpness of the same short using DPAF and the viewscreen. The Camera needs to be on a Tripod, at ISO 100, largest aperture, in this case f1.4 . You will also need a slanted target used for adjusting the lens. Take several pictures. The DPAF should be sharp, since the focus is done by the sensor itself and not a separate focus system. When I started this test, the Sigma was focusing about 1 to 2 cm in front of the target from about 2 meters away. DFAF was spot on. The bad news is that with this Sigma Lens, the focal plan would jump around in the range of 1 cm no matter what I tried. By f2 to f2.2 the issue is not visible. These micro adjustment issues show up when the depth of field is narrow. Narrow depth of field is caused by, Large Aperture like f1.4, being very close to a subject (Macro photography) and a long focal Length, wildlife lenses. So if you are using the kit lens, or even something like 24 to 105 f4, the issue is most likely somewhere else.
Exactly - there's no way around it. Off-sensor focusing will almost always be less consistent, unlike sensor-based focusing (DSLR in Live View mode or mirrorless cameras). I had 50mm f/1.8 and when shooting through viewfinder, the focus "jumped" a bit on every half-press. When I stopped it down to f/3.5, the problem was gone. The off-sensor module simply couldn't handle such a shallow depth-of-field.
All good points. However, a caveat should be added that a sub $1000 (approx) DSLR cannot be micro-adjusted. I have 2 older DSLRs that front focus that have nothing to do with the other points and all testing has proven it to be down to micro-adjusting which cannon be adjusted on nearly all sub $1000 DSLRs (depending on where you might buy it from. That is when you may be wasting your money, buying a camera (DSLR) that cannot be micro-adjusted). That is when my mirrorless excels (on-sensor focusing).
The workaround is to simply use Live View when using the problematic lens, essentially turning your DSLR into mirrorless. I had to use it with f/2.8 or faster lenses.
@@timelord2222 Good thinking but this is not possible as live view in many older DSLRs is unusable (2 to 4 seconds...useless) Canons dual pixel autofocus makes this possible but Canon and Nikon still have, and have had, many DSLRs incapable of being used in live view(in good practical use). I have felt sorry for many DSLR buyers who became aware of this issue over the past few years, unfortunately, pro photographers often fail to highlight the lack of micro-adjustment in DSLRs(it should be mandatory :-)...especially when demonstrating the off-sensor phase detect that DSLRs (generally under $1000) use. It may be worth mentioning that I have a very technical background but it wouldn't be worth me going to far into it here.
@@darlingtoncd Yes, but those cameras with limited Live View are extremely old. Even the old Canon 650D can use Live View indefinitely. Nikon has another problem - on their cheaper DSLRs, you can't set the aperture while in Live View.
@@timelord2222 Unfortunately that's not the case. The 550d doesn't have dual pixel...no good for live view use (2 to 4 seconds + to focus). Even now Canon sells the 2000d (digic 4 processor) and 4000d(same) - again not dual pixel which is an absolute must-have for live view use: through the viewfinder use...ok but if you get one requiring micro-adjustment (out of luck). As an example, beware of pro reviews: if a Canon 5dmk V did not have the micro-adjustment capability, there would be an uproar amongst pro photographers with probably, next to, zero sales to follow. I do feel sorry for the entry-level consumer who has, and still may, invest in a camera (system) that is older in spec and underperforms...caveat depending on how the user wants to use it.
@@darlingtoncd I use 700D without dual pixel just fine in live view. But I'm a landscape photographer, to be clear - for moving subjects it's good to have
Mike, I love you videos, but I don't buy into the notion that older lenses can't resolve the high megapixels. I've seen several older lenses (over 10 years old) work great on the D850 and the Canon 50R. And it's not just beginners that forget to change their settings, lots of pros do it as well, probably not as often, but they do.
It has less to do with age and more to do with resolving power. Primes Are almost universally sharper than zooms so yes it would stand to reason that an older prime would still have enough resolving power.
I could not find on U tube why you have the title "Maven" so I must take it as self promotion. I rarely respond to sites that are really off the mark on what they present as fact , but as you are purporting to give beginner and novice photographers the "best way" to do something that is not valid I must take exception to your presentation. You are correct in that an out of focus image is caused either by the lense or the camera operator. Since the latter has many possibilities for the problem it is logical and much easier to eliminate the former, the lens. Put the camera with the suspect lens on a tripod, set the lens to f8, the shutter to 500 and ISO to auto and set the focus with auto focus. If you have an SLR lock the mirror up. Take the image using the time release set for 5 seconds.
Repeat the procedure but this time use manual focus using the rear screen. Compare the two images on your computer. If the two are the same or if the camera auto is better than manual you have eliminated the lense/camera partnership. If manual is better then the camera has a problem. If neither is sharp the lens has a problem. If both are sharp, you have the problem.
Peter Hill oh sadly, that won’t do Peter.
You will need to make a video about it, and put your face on it. Present yourself & ideas to the world for scrutiny. This way others like yourself can address & (attempt to) criticize the way you have me. Then you will have the answers to these other, non-relevant questions you think matter. Let us know when it’s posted. Thank you.
you saved me from destroying my camera, thank you XD