Headlight Restoration Using Cerakote Ceramic Restoration Kit || Restoring My Cayenne Headlights
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- Опубликовано: 14 дек 2022
- If you have an older vehicle with plastic headlights, then chances are, you have headlights that are foggy and yellow. Plastic headlights oxidize overtime and this oxidation will cause your headlights to be less effective, especially at night when you need them the most, making it more difficult to see and could affect your safety. To resolve this issue, you have essentially only two options: spend a lot of money to replace your headlights with brand new ones or buy a headlight restoration kit and restore them to their original look yourself. In this video, I will show you how to use the @Cerakote Ceramic Headlight Restoration Kit to bring your headlights back to life.
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Appreciate this video. I literally just did my headlights 2 days ago on a 2007 Ford Sport Trac, but I used the Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit. It came out really, really well. Oddly enough, my 81 year old father just bought the Cerakote Kit for his Toyota Tacoma. Health issues and such, there's no reason for him to be doing this. Told him I'd come up next week and do the restoration for him, then found your video to walk me through the steps. Very much appreciated man, nicely done.
Unfortunately I have bad news for you. The Sylvania product is crap! It looks great for 9 months to a year, then it is worse then before you did it the first time. Both my vehicles were done with it, within a year I had to apply for warranty replacement. Redid all four headlights, and again within a year, all four bad again! I'm not doing all that work over again once a year with Sylvania hoping I sell my vehicle before submitting another claim year after year. Stay away from Turtle and Sylvania because their coating is basically a finisher and not a true sealing protector as the Cerakote ceramic finishing step is.
Hey honest question, i saw the other commenter's input about the sylvania.. I have the kit sitting on my desk now just waiting for warmer weather to use it LOL How have yours held up??
Also props for the sport trac.. i wanted one for my first car so bad back in the day lol..
How did the cerakote kit work for your old man's tacoma as well? Thanks
Good Video. Two comments, people need to really know that the headlight and area must be completely bone-dry before applying step three. No moisture can be present or in a position to run down over the work just completed. Second, almost without fail, the driver's side headlight comes out better no matter what headlight is done first. This is mainly due to the passenger side headlight taking more abuse from being on the side of the vehicle next to the shoulder where more loose debris resides. Vehicles traveling in front of you kick this debris up and the headlight must drive through it, causing more wear and tear on that headlight.
Thank you! Very Helpful Comment/Info
Thanks. I’m fixing to do my wife’s and I’ll try to focus on the right side more while sanding.
This stuff is excellent,did my 2011 outback perfect,seen this product on a firearms channel,only cerskote paint,gave headlight product,no complaints
Just the absolute best way to teach: explain first, demonstrate second, explain the results third. I bought this kit due to the results on my '02 330i with the Cerakote Trim Restoration Kit and am looking forward to using this product on my friend's '06 Golf! Bonus points for cat cameos.
Just finished. Thanks and goodnight!🙌🏾🙌🏾🙌🏾
Wow! That is a big difference!
You vid helped me STEP BY STEP to clean my car's headlights. She has never been more clear! Thanks a bunch!
Thank you! This was really helpful. Did my 2015 Subaru and the headlights look brand new!
Just bought this restoration kit. Now I know how to do it. Thanks
My son did his 2004Tacoma I couldn't believe how good it looked so he gave me the kit for my birthday I just did my 2007 Chevy Colorado it turned out great it really works
I Just got this for my 2006 Chevy equinox and I am so ready … well now to do it !!! Thank you for the video my headlights look just like this !!!
Great kit, I’ll order one today and follow your directions. Thanks
2012 crv. nicely turned out. not perfect, but 100 times better especially with led upgrades
Very detailed and on point. Great video. TY!
Outstanding video!!! Will be doing it to my 02 325i. Thank you sir
thank u for ur service big dawg
You did a good job. Doing mine tomorrow. Thanks for sharing 😊
Just did mine with Cerakote today. Just like new. Perfectly clear.
As a professional detailer if you want better results with this kit use 800 grit, 1000,1500,2000,&3000 then wipe on the ceramic clear coat
I agree with this. I felt the sand paper provided should have had a bit more variety. I have done a couple projects over the last few months where I went with a much higher grit sand paper than what the instructions for the product called for and I got much better results from it. The headlights still look good though so I'm still happy with how it came out especially considering how they were before.
taping is a good idea, helps when sanding so you don't knick or scratch your clear coat.
Just purchased new headlights for my Tribute from "Rock Auto" for 150 bucks (bulbs included) and THEN saw a Cerakote ad! It figures. I don't know where you buy your headlights but I already installed a set from the same place on my sweeties Impala for 170 bucks and they are C.A.P.A. Certified! Didn't take 5 minutes. If the Cerakote doesn't work on the Tribute it will be a much more involved process. You have to remove the dang bumper etc. Kudos for the vid! Thank you!
Great work
Just did mine . Came out pretty good. I would recommend either being careful around the edges when sanding or using some masking tape so you don’t scratch the surfaces
Thanks very much for this video
Helpful - thank you
great vid...thanks
Helpful! Thanks~
Good jobs marine
really helpful. as good if not better than Cerakote video
Im using this kit but doing extra sanding steps with wet snd dry up to 8000 grit.
Also replacing the Xenon bulbs could be worthwhile. Last time I replaced the Xenon bulbs on my BMW 5 series was 9½ years ago, they were still working but low beam light output was not ideal anymore. The old ones was Osram Night Breaker Unlimited Xenarc D1S + 70%, and the new ones I just installed are Osram Night Breaker Laser D1S +200% Next Gen.
Mine came out amazing but am so tempted to go again with step three . Anyone do that and howd it turn out? improve or ruin it...
I was About to buy this and the cerakote trim restorer for my brothers 1990-something truck (I’m cleaning it up a bit just to help out since his main vehicle just broke down and now he’s needing to drive the truck everywhere for business) but I was nervous about doing it. This vid was so comprehensive that I feel completely comfortable doing it now, thank you so much!
Also ‘porch kitty’ did an amazing job supervising 😂
Glad my video is helping you feel confident! I'll let the kitty know she's doing her job well 😂
Definitely do the tape. I was lazy and even when extremely careful, scuffed up some paint.
A big lesson I have learned with basically any project is always take the time to do the prep work. I hate it to I just want to get to the fun stuff but the prep work always pays off in the end. But we learn from our mistakes.
@@thediygrunt Yeah I'm not that bummed... 16 year old car...... but will prep the slightly newer car before I try again..
Great video DIY Grunt..!
Excellent video, excellent results..! 😏
Ok, I'm about to do my first headlight lens restoration on 2010 Civic.
I did household hacks last night and placed vinegar soaked paper towels on headlights 30 minutes, then wiped. Immediately followed with half lemon and baking soda scrub. Both worked nicely to clean off dirt, grime, oxidation... but of course I'm left with original sealant that was not stripped off with those methods.
I really like kits with ceramic sealant coatings like Cerakote and Turtle Wax, but I also like buffer in Meguiar's, and sanding drill bit in 3M... 🤔
If you have chance please help me with some random questions:
1) Do you have preference for clear sealant, ceramic, other..?
2) Do you have sealant application preference... sponge, towelettes, spray..?
3) Is it more effective to have buffer over sanding attachments for drill, vice versa..?
4) Is it better to hand sand, and drill buff..?
Any other tips for me to consider..?
Thanks DIY Grunt..! Your headlights came out great ✨️
Thanks the for the support. Let me answer your questions in the same numerical order to keep it easy to follow,
1. I do not have any preference as of right now simply because I have not used enough different types and not enough time has passed to see how well the Cerakote will hold up. If I had to choose I would say I liked the Cerakote because I was able to get it cheaper than some of the other Car Brand named products. The instructions were clear and concise, easy to follow and the kit had every I needed.
2. For applying the sealant the towelettes that came in the kit worked well though it was very tempting to go back and keep using them till they dried up cause they were still plenty wet after a single pass. I think a sponge would probably cause liquid to squeeze out and possibly make a mess and a spray bottle could possibly fail to create a uniform finish and risk getting it on the body of the car. I think I will have to lean towards the towelettes, plus their small size made it easy to get them right up to the edge of the headlight and into those tighter spaces.
3. If I had to choose between sanding or buffer attachments for a drill I would choose buffer. I prefer to sand by hand or with a dedicated powered sander like a Corner Cat or Random Orbit Sander.. While both sanding and buffing can require serious speed to make the work go faster, the drill is far more suited to using a buffer attachment. Some where in all my car stuff I have a buffer attachment for my drill, but I also have a dedicated buffer tool which is what I would recommend using if you were looking at doing buffing on a regular basis.
4. I have some experience sanding quite a few different surfaces and in my experience I find that delicate surfaces that require super fine grit sand paper like the headlights are best done by hand. For a much larger surface any kind of powered sander will be convenient to make it go faster but I always like to test the surface by starting by hand to make sure I won't damage it. But for the headlights I would stick to doing it by hand you have more control and ultimately you don't want to over sand the lens and cause damage to it or the car body. Unless the kit you buy says to buff the headlight as part of the process I would not worry about it. The Cerakote didn't require it and it came out great so far.
I hope this helps and answered your questions.
@@thediygrunt Thanks for your detailed insights, much appreciated..! Best wishes on your next project 😏
Superb video, the passenger side was cloudier after step one, I am guessing not as much time was spent with the four wipes?
Thank you for this, I've gotten my kit and will be doing it today.
Honestly I don't know what is going on with the passenger side, maybe I didn't clean it as well so the final result was less clear than the driver side. I am having issues with that headlight currently with moisture inside the lens probably from a bad seal so that could have been an issue at the time, so the cloudiness could be on the inside of the headlight.
@@thediygrunt That's a great thought about the interior condensation.
I did mine yesterday, spent a lot of time with the wipes and careful sanding. Happy to say, they came out looking brand new. Thank you so much for your video, it really helped my confidence to tackle it. Your supurrvisor should give you a raise :)
I’m doing mine right now and my passenger side light is foggier than the driver side. I read on another comment that this is common as the road has more debris on the edge of the highway and this debris is slung up by vehicles in front of you. 🤷♂️ Made sense to me. I’m going to spend more time on the right side and see if I can match the driver side.
Damn 27 I got mine at Walmart for 16
i used this kit and it turned out amazing, but i did an extra step. i highly recommend that you buff the headlights with rubbing compound and get the headlights as clear as you can, then clean with rubbing alcohol and let dry before applying the ceramic coating. mine turned out like new. i hope it lasts.
I have had no issues so far and it has been about 10 months. My only issue is the passenger side headlight seal failed so now moisture is inside it but the lens is still good. I do feel that the passenger did not come out as clear as the driver side so If I ever had to redo the process I might try your suggestion.
mine turned out not so well. The headlights still feel rough when you move your hand over them. They are definitely brighter and a little bit more clear however you can still see the peeling clearcoat. Maybe I didnt sand enough? Maybe I needed to use a 600 grit sandpaper to get more of the factory coating out so it would be perfectly smooth? Should I repeat all the steps and sand it down completely until i feel that the headlight is perfectly smooth?
I do not remember my headlights feeling rough or anything peeling when I went to do mine so our situations are not quite the same. I did sand for several minutes with the 2000 grit on each headlight before moving on to the 3000. So maybe you just didn't sand long enough. If you want to go rougher than the sand paper the kit provides then I would start by trying a 1500 and working my way down if necessary. I would probably not go below 1000 grit I think anything below that will be to rough. 600 grit will give wood a nice finish but on a surface as smooth as a headlight that could leave visible scratches. I might be wrong but I would use caution and test a small area if you are set on using 600.
I wonder how long the clear coating lasts
Thanks
Almost a year and a half since I did it, and it's still looking good. Especially in comparison to how it was before restoration. The car was parked in the garage for a little bit but now is parked outside and has been for a while.
Hi, im thinking of buying this product for my 2010 Lexus LS460 I would love to know how long did the coating last on the lights
I honestly think they are still as clear as when I did it, which is now about 13 months or so. I will say the car has probably spend about half that time in the garage and the other half out side so that might affect the longevity.
@@thediygrunt thanks for the reply makes me feel a little more confident using the product
Can you repeat the process after you put the ceramic coat on? One spot is still a little foggy
You could definitely repeat the process again if your first attempt doesn't come out well but you will need a new kit to redo the ceramic coat.
Grunt, next time you have to do this on your Cayenne, use the tool under the trunk floor to turn and release the lock holding the headlights in, they then slide out! No need to tape stuff off and no tight areas!. See your owners manual.
There is a rubber gasket around the lense that seals against the body. You can just pop that off so you don't get anything on it and clean it well while its off. Replacements are reasonable if they are torn or worn.
I have a 2005 Cayenne Turbo, your paint looks in great shape!
My headlights have no yellowing or haze, but very very small hairline cracks, all running on the same direction. Did yours have these and did this restoration help?
How is it holding up?
I'm aware of how to remove the headlights on the Cayenne as well as the location of the headlight removal tool. In fact I have a video on how to remove the headlights, replace the bulbs, and replace the mounting bracket that the headlight sits in. I left the headlights in on purpose so I could work on them without having to hold them in place while sanding and cleaning them. No I do not have any cracks in my headlights (yet). The lights are holding up great especially considering the car has had to sit outside in the drive way for the last year I see no yellowing from the UV light exposure. Considering some people said it won't last a year unless I have a "professional" do it, I would say they look great for being done by a DIYer. Yeah the paint on the car is probably the one thing I have zero issues with. The interior on the other hand is a different story and makes me want to call it quits on the car.
Yep, I spoke to early, that was the 1st video of yours I ever saw, then I caught your other one when you replaced the head light mount....
Just did my 1996 Hyundai accent hatchback and the lights look new again
are your headlamps plastic or glass?
They are some kind of plastic. Basically all new cars are plastic headlights. In fact I believe its a requirement now for safety because in the event of a car accident you don't have a bunch of broken glass. Plus the plastic is what allows new cars to have headlights formed in a way that creates a more smooth and aerodynamic front end. On my older Porsches they have glass headlights but they are simple round lens usually 7-8 inches in diameter. If they were glass I wouldn't have to worry about the lens yellowing since my older Porsches are twice the age of the Cayenne and perfectly clear. But the glass is heavier and more expensive so there are trade-offs.
These home kits end up flaking off and yellowing/browning looking uglier than they were before. Only real way to deal with it is using several sanding stages and then using actual clear coat paint that is made for plastics. Its the only thing that will last and restore the lights to 99% new. These kits will look good at first then they will fade, especially if car isnt garaged or under a carport.
If you dont want to go through the hassle of prepping and properly coating it or dont have the items required or know how to do it, best to pay someone to do it, especially if you have expensive headlight housings. This guy did a pretty good job on this considering how yellow and horrible they looked. It was a huge improvement.
16 bucks on Amazon right now my head lights aren't that bad but I'm going to do this
Been 8 months or so since I did mine and they still look like they did 8 months ago so I'm happy with the money and time I spent doing it.
1 kit = 1 light or it enough to 2 lights?
1 kit will take care of both headlights
You didn't do the last step horizontal
Those headlight lenses really needed restored.😳
Like everyone else I have this kit sitting on my dresser and have just been waiting to get it done. I want to say after watching other DIY videos on this I feel like all we really need it the Ceramic coating, whatever that chemical is lol. I feel $30 it too much when we can go remove the oxidation with some turtle wax rubbing compound and small pieces of sandpaper from the hardware store. Oh well, the damage is done and paid for already lol.
Carpro CQuartz ceramic coating is all you need if you polish out your own headlights without one of these kits. Or your favorite ceramic coating.
Just one problem after all the work you have done, it is NOT SEALED and Protected from happening again. Yes you removed the oxidation but have done NOTHING to keep it from happening again. So while it looks great now, in 6 months to a year, you will be doing it all over again. And because you have removed the original sealed surface by sanding it, you will have to keep repeating it more often because you are not resealing and protecting it! You have the kit, use it!
So, when does the yellow come off? Not really a restoration.
Lasts 2 years parked in the sun in FL.
This car spent years parked out in the sun in various states across the south, the original finish lasted for years if this one lasts only for a year or two I will still consider it money and time well spent.
2 years is actually a pretty good time imo.
For the over achiever you could use some buffing compounds before the final coat to really get them to shine
I was concerned that it might cause damage to the coating and I wanted to see just how well it would look on its own. I have seen other kits that suggest or include buffing as a final step though.
@@thediygrunt.. polishing compound for a 3rd pass definitely made a difference. I did this on my 2014 Mazda cx9 .. they look like new.
DO NOT USE ANYTHING before the final step of applying the Coating/Sealer!! The Cerakote Ceramic needs the fine roughing of the sanding so it has something rough to BOND to. It will fill-in hence smooth out any of the sanding. If you polish or buff the headlight after sanding, the ceramic will not properly bond and might even peel or lift where it was improperly polished before the final sealer step!
Where's your shave profile marine?
I keep it next to my DD214
Well done, thank you. One thing I would suggest, use masking tape instead of duct tape. Easer to remove.
I used delicate surface painters tape, not duct tape
Do not use masking tape or duct tape. Both are bad for painted or finished surfaces plus normally leave sticky residue behind. If using tape, only use blue painters tape or delicate surface tape.
Update??? These don't last long
I did this back in late December I believe and they still look like they did in this video. My passenger side is still slightly cloudy but that could be an issue on the inside of the headlight lens because I have moisture in there right now so I definitely have a broken seal. The driver side though still looks great and even if it only lasts a year and I have to re due it that is still worth it to me since the car was basically not drive able at night before I did this.
Nice was just wondering the same thing. Just did this for a friend of mine and I felt bad that she may have to have this done again after so long. Maybe we don’t have to redo the whole thing but just redo the coating?
Lookin like a whole recruit
So do you with the profile pic of dudes on an M60 by the looks of it and a banner of what looks like the Horno Crosses. Looks like we are both a whole recruit.
those kits limit you intentionally so that it doesn’t take away the jobs true professional headlight restorers
I agree with you. But if I have to do it every year I bet I will still save money over having the professional do it cause no matter who does it the finish will wear off over time. The labor cost alone would have been more than the price I paid for the kit. I have nothing against paying a skilled professional for their time but I don't mind spending an hour of my own time and 20 bucks to achieve the same result even if it does not last quite as long.
It would have worked out better if you sanded first. Have a spray bottle handy while wet sanding. Intermittent spraying until the yellow/milky run off gets closer to white-ish To no milky run off. Note. The milky runoff is actually the original headlight coating that you are going to replace. When milky runoff is gone you know you’ve removed all of the old coating. Then do he first oxidation pad. I know it’s not what the instructions says , but when the yellowing is that bad you have to sand first , if yellowing is marginal then yes they supply with enough of the oxidation remover. He used more on his left light that why it looks better.
I would say going completely contrary to manufacturer instructions is a fast way to void any warranty offered, not to mention this is not a good example of "Work smarter, not harder".
My yellowing was horrific. Could barely see the bulbs. I followed the directions supplied, and my headlights came out looking like brand new.
WRONG! There is a reason for the prep wipes being used first, then wet sanding. That reason is lasting results, a proper finished surface for the Ceramic to bond to!
Boot
Jk
Jk boot
Love when people do review videos yet don't read instructions, SMH