Not a bad effort, great method for beginners. I am a Sealant Applicator myself and i do appreciate how hard it can be to get a good bead. I use tooling sticks made from pine strip wood. Ive got many videos on my channel if you are interested in seeing another method 🥳
I use Fugi kit all the time.... here's my tips Buy the pack of three from Tool Station. You'll only need these three. The red ones are a waste. Use builders wipes as you go rather than tissues and soapy water. Try not to get the 'plasticky' wipes that feel like plastic bags, the 'cottony' once are best. Cheap ones are fine. If you have to form into a 3 way corner, like corner of a bath or shower where the two walls meet the surface, I recommend you do the upright silicon bead first, and then let it dry before you do the other two. Trying to neatly finish the point where 3 beads meet is a nightmare. Lastly, don't let customers see how easy it is to do with these tools. Let them marvel at how skillful and neat you are. Bask in the glory.
@@jamessomers8955. I'd still exercise caution. The Fugi brand has very well engineered edges without moulding lines. Plus they are made with a very firm and durable rubber. I tried many brands and most are good. But there are some stinkers out there. I brought a tool from B&Q recently, but it was just soft plastic, not firm rubber. It was terrible.
@@jamessomers8955 Not quite because the ones I have seen don't have the little insert to ride over the grout lines so you have to tilt them to ride it. Quite honestly by the time you have paid post and packing you might as well go to Toolstation and pick some up.
Take the red Cramer fugi tools and cut them in half that way you'll have a Slimline version of the blue ones that can fit behind taps and above sliding wardrobes
It's like, everyone knows how to paint. On a lot of paint jobs. I spend more time removing old paint, from over the lines, on fixtures, flooring, wood, and glass. Then with the actual paint job.
Had a mastic man come to our site to finish off the bathrooms, all he had was a bag full of wood that hes shaped and used that, ,made it look so easy, but then any trade makes their job look easy to others.
I used pretty much the same method and same tools on my bath and it hasn't budged 1 bit. Also used the same in a couple of other places with same results.
If you're using a fast curing silicone then you should have gunned it much more quickly. The important bit is making sure you have enough in the joint - the excess can be removed by the FUGI tool.
@@phillipbridge5009 Not really. The Fugi kit looks good although a little expensive. He has created an almost flawless bead around the pan and bath. I somewhat agree about the choice of colour around the shelf. Like I said the Fugi kit seems to be the way forward, the popsicle stick is a thing of the past.
If you don't have the fugi kit to hand, do your silicone line as normal, spray with soapy water, squeeze the end of an empty silicone tube to form a small radius then run that down your silicone line which scoops up all excess and leaves no mess, then if necessary lightly run your finger across. That's if you don't have the fugi kit of course 👍🏻
I usually start with trying to sterilise all surfaces and tools to reduce of any bacteria manifesting and thus reducing bond and increasing mould chances etc. Also using your fingers could contaminate it with skins oils and bacteria transferring to it and probably lots of potentially harmful chemicals in these sealants that could soak into your skin! Jubi seems like a nice chap. Pity he doesn't like applying sealant - it can be quite therapeutic and satisfying when you sweep through a few tricky points!
It's a difficult job at the best of times guys, but if you are doing the whole job then you tend to plan ahead for that silicone day, ie. as you are putting that tile on and notice its not quite square you don't think ha ha the silicon man will get round that! No! you remove said tile and re-fit straight. Good job though lads under difficult circumstances... (us faceless lot watching your every move! Id like to see some of these numpty's do it!) I've moved on to using mainly CT1 for most jobs, with the multi-solve to help with the tooling up. just don't use the wet wipes to clean it first, as it reacts with the CT1 (stops it sticking properly), use the multi-solve to clean and dry it well before applying.
@@markhoward5780 hardly picky, if I was paying thousands for a bathroom like that you wouldn't expect tiles to be wonky, Roger himself has always said he hates the idea of someone sitting in the bath and being able to notice imperfections and that is definitely one!
Tiler here....first thing I noticed....They come on sheets usually 300x300mm or thereabouts. Tile shops sell even the shit ones per piece, but the cheap ones have pieces that are out of line and need to be manually corrected.
@@andybell9245 There's nothing wrong with doing it yourself. Finding a 'professional' who will actually do a proper job is more difficult than siliconing it yourself.
Only use silicone with a BS number on the tube. If it hasn't then it may well contain recycled silicone and/or cheaper fillers rather than virgin silicone. Oh, and if the tube says 'bathroom sealant' and not silicone, then it is acrylic, and it WILL harden and shrink.
I had no idea that recycled silicone, or cheap fillers, are sold on. Thanks for tip, I'll definitely keep an eye out in future. Regarding acrylic sealant, 100% agreed. I discovered this years ago when I made foolish mistake of buying 'silicon' in B&Q. I grabbed an £11.00 tube assuming that the price would reflect the quality. When I squeezed out the first bead, it was so watery that it flew out. It was awful stuff and clearly has that acrylic smell.
The best way to apply a silicone bead or any sealant is painters tape on both sides smooth is with you finger. Then remove the tape carefully and gently go over it with your finger dipped into soapy water to get a nice smooth consistent edge. Plus lots of paper towel.
@@boyasaka read over the second part of my comment. That replies to what you’ve been told or read. I often silicone in my line of work and have found this to be the cleanest and nicest finish for customers.
True, but I always forget until I get the mess.....but the silicone matches the grout colour and for mosaics the grout is always epoxy....so hardly happens....
Nah looked fine to me although you couldn't really see the end result you know hes not going leave it looking shod, ive done a fair amount of fugi'ing to know its hard to not use a finger.
Who did the mosaics, it's all over,, pro tip get aluminium angle, cut it carefully down to the length of the mosaic work, then once a the tiles are in place insert the aluminium in the first horizontal grout line of the mosaics and pack as necessary to force the levels through casting the gaps to the counter top, just a thought, it's worked for me many times.
Had the bath to do at home so watched a number of videos on this subject as I'm rubbish at this sort of stuff. Thing is you need a bit of practice to get it right. I made my self a test corner from 2 pieces of clean off cut wood and had a go with that. OK, might be a waste of silicone but compared to your job that's relatively cheap and you get an idea of working time. Dow Corning silicone will skin over quite quickly, it's good stuff but you haven't got a lot of time with it. Their technical site is well worth a read as it tells you how to get an optimal seal and how much movement it'll take. As for using masking tape, I'd be careful with Frog Tape as it leaves a residue which can repel anything. The blue 3M's tape is good, stays intact and seems to peel away nice and cleanly, does cost though.
It matches the white basin, white bath and white toilet. I guess you could argue it didn't match the wooden shelf/mosaic join but the overall look is really nice.
Plumbers only use white or sometimes translucent. I don't think plumbning merchants really get into colours. However TBH you could match 90% of jobs with Mapei 100 (White) 111 (Light Grey) 113 (Cement Grey) 114 (Anthracite) and 120 (Black-quite rare) 130 (Jasmine) There is also the 110 (Manhatten) and 112 (Mid Grey). Best thing is to give the tiler $50 to supply matching silicone to the grout for fit-off.
A tip from a builder who tried all the sealant tools to get the best finished bead said this. His tip is to use a cooking/baking fondant tool and that it is the best tool of all the tools he used. Has anyone tried a fondant tool?
We have had a thermal imaging camera on those tiles and you can see all those mini dots gave a 90% adhesive coverage when pushed down, which complies with The British Standard. There are no cold spots and there is no sign of cracking grout. We will keep watching it but anyone who bet that it would fail within 8 weeks has lost their money.
@@SkillBuilder 70% coverage in Australia, and no standards in New Zealand (yeah, this is a great place to live, just don't buy a house off the plans!). People go whah-whah over spot fixing but if areas are uneven it can be the most efficient method for a perfect finish, depending on a couple of things: 1) A strong (usually porcelain) tile 2) HIGH quality latex modified C2S1 adhesive (preferably with liquid latex also added 25-50% 3) A solid substrate .
My tip is I’m not telling anybody!But it’s missing in this video.😜 Il say one thing,I use the tool the other way round.The angled edge hitting the silicone first.
I just use it for sealant when needed. Lay the tape where suitable, squeeze the bead, profile it, and remove the tape. I haven't used it for painting but thanks for the heads up.
Little tip for the easiest way to finish nicely is to seal your vanity/sink and bath prior to fitting the taps, that way they aren't in the way. If you use plenty of spit or washing liquid on your finger you can actually move or manipulate the sealant around with out it sticking to yourself 👍
Don't forget plenty of loo or blue roll to clean 'em off. Those profilers are tip top. My tee shirts are slowly turning into wet suits... I always forget the loo or blue roll.
They've been saying that story for years and I have seen no proof. Normal AC silicone is full of Acetic Acid and most have mould inhibitors. Tell your clients not to wash with bar soaps, that ruins silicone fast.
been using my finger for years always get a clean smooth finish ,no mess and no mould ,everytime i silicone never see any mould for years ,had mine around my bath for over five years and still looks good. The key is when you shower or bath always wipe dry after.Use tape ,wet finger one wipe take off tape one wipe again and done ,all this faffing around with tools jeez make an easy job into a scientific one.The only thing to make sure you do is buy a good quality silicone.
Great tools to have but the only awkward part of this is the choice of tiles round that vanity unit.... it’s a struggle with those mosaics and silicone however good you are!
Fugen Boy beats Fugi all day long, its the quality of the tool. Also no need for builders wipes as mentioned below or toilet paper like the vid. Cheap baby wipes. Thank me later :)
Clear silicone is better, but the installation has to be perfect,, i can't stand bleed out on tiles because of silicone colour, very annoying, very similar to a work top protruding beyond a tall larder cupboard, one of my pet hates, and one I've never done myself can't stand it when shop fitting principles are not exemplified in domestic kitchens, it's very poor planning.
I find with bomb disposal it is best to get someone else in and have the day off, which is what I did here. Open heart surgery, on the other hand, is just plumbing so a mirror, torch and a good sharp Stanley knife is all you need. What's the worst that can happen?
@@tommarkm8058 Hi Tom The trouble with coloured silicones is that you need a different one for each surface. The white goes with all the sanitary ware and the bath. It might not be an exact match for the grout but what would it look like around that bath?
@@SkillBuilderi agree the white looks better around the bath and toilet, I didnt explain that very well. Just think matching the grout colour around that shelf with the silicone would have matched up nicer, especially with it being on darker surfaces.
If you were acetoxy cure silicone that might be why it didn't stick to your bath, it can be funny on some surfaces like that, PVC is the worst, I had it fail several times on some PVC panels. Use a neutral cure silicone, it will stick better.
I use a spray bottle of soapy water. (A weak solution). After I've applied the silicon I very lightly mist the area with the soapy water, this stops the excess silicon smearing all over the place when you use the fugi. Only time you have to watch is when you are applying to a textured surface, I find it's better done the old fashioned way, with you're finger. (Said the actress to..........)
Clearly this guy doesn't do silicone really often as the way he use those pads indicates to me he just lern how to use them but everyone no one born with this knowledge.
So many people douse the unfinished bead with water before smoothing or tooling it out. Even though most silicone sealants will state on their instructions “Do not allow to get wet for at least 24 hours” So many times I’ve had to re do silicone and it comes off In almost full strips because it hadn’t adhered to the surfaces properly. It’s not just about making it look good, it also has to perform an important task. Wetting it before tooling it allows water to come between the silicone and the surface to which you are trying to adhere .
That's not a credit card it an EE router password card. if you're going to do this job get everything right because people like me will spot the slightest mistake. obviously you don't know a credit card from a password card
This tooks way too long for a professional. In such a bath you does usually have 35-50 meter Silicon to do. You have to do it in 2-3h hours or you are losing money. And don't youse any soap, only use neutral soaps with ph around 7,5 otherwise your fungicide in the silicone will be destroyed by the acid and mold will come sooner.
Hell, that whole environment is kinda "dark'ish", so why the hell he's using *WHITE* silicone??? Transparent silicone would have been my choice, followed by black. Both available without much added cost.
Why is this man doing this video? Because he has no idea what t f he’s doing! A finger is no excuse for knowing what you may think you know! All he’s going to do is get amateur or diy’s into trouble and covered in silicon! Very poor advise!!! 39 years in the trade says I know what I’m talking about!
Not a bad effort, great method for beginners. I am a Sealant Applicator myself and i do appreciate how hard it can be to get a good bead. I use tooling sticks made from pine strip wood. Ive got many videos on my channel if you are interested in seeing another method 🥳
What's the channel name?
I use Fugi kit all the time.... here's my tips
Buy the pack of three from Tool Station. You'll only need these three. The red ones are a waste.
Use builders wipes as you go rather than tissues and soapy water. Try not to get the 'plasticky' wipes that feel like plastic bags, the 'cottony' once are best. Cheap ones are fine.
If you have to form into a 3 way corner, like corner of a bath or shower where the two walls meet the surface, I recommend you do the upright silicon bead first, and then let it dry before you do the other two. Trying to neatly finish the point where 3 beads meet is a nightmare.
Lastly, don't let customers see how easy it is to do with these tools. Let them marvel at how skillful and neat you are. Bask in the glory.
THE MASTICMAN right here ^
Great advice
Also dont need the £20 Fugi brand kit. The kits for a fiver off amazon are just as good.
@@jamessomers8955. I'd still exercise caution. The Fugi brand has very well engineered edges without moulding lines. Plus they are made with a very firm and durable rubber. I tried many brands and most are good. But there are some stinkers out there. I brought a tool from B&Q recently, but it was just soft plastic, not firm rubber. It was terrible.
@@jamessomers8955 Not quite because the ones I have seen don't have the little insert to ride over the grout lines so you have to tilt them to ride it. Quite honestly by the time you have paid post and packing you might as well go to Toolstation and pick some up.
LOL....I agree. The toughest part is knowing when to not touch it. My rule is if it's 95% of perfect....leave it alone...it's good enough.
Using silicone is like a metaphor for life
You only get one chance and if you don't get it right it's hard to fix
Take the red Cramer fugi tools and cut them in half that way you'll have a Slimline version of the blue ones that can fit behind taps and above sliding wardrobes
I never knew silicone was so complicated. Learned a lot, thanks!
It's like, everyone knows how to paint. On a lot of paint jobs. I spend more time removing old paint, from over the lines, on fixtures, flooring, wood, and glass. Then with the actual paint job.
Had a mastic man come to our site to finish off the bathrooms, all he had was a bag full of wood that hes shaped and used that, ,made it look so easy, but then any trade makes their job look easy to others.
True. If you practice one thing over and over you will eventually become a master 👍
I used pretty much the same method and same tools on my bath and it hasn't budged 1 bit. Also used the same in a couple of other places with same results.
If you're using a fast curing silicone then you should have gunned it much more quickly. The important bit is making sure you have enough in the joint - the excess can be removed by the FUGI tool.
A job well done. Looks like the Fugi kit is the way forward.
Someone needs to go to SpecSavers!
@@phillipbridge5009 Not really. The Fugi kit looks good although a little expensive. He has created an almost flawless bead around the pan and bath. I somewhat agree about the choice of colour around the shelf. Like I said the Fugi kit seems to be the way forward, the popsicle stick is a thing of the past.
I’ve never seen it done without spraying soapy water on the bead before scraping off as well. Nice job 👍🏻
If you don't have the fugi kit to hand, do your silicone line as normal, spray with soapy water, squeeze the end of an empty silicone tube to form a small radius then run that down your silicone line which scoops up all excess and leaves no mess, then if necessary lightly run your finger across. That's if you don't have the fugi kit of course 👍🏻
No no. Don't use soapy water 🤬
using water actually hinders the silicone from drying.. u dont need to use water
I usually start with trying to sterilise all surfaces and tools to reduce of any bacteria manifesting and thus reducing bond and increasing mould chances etc. Also using your fingers could contaminate it with skins oils and bacteria transferring to it and probably lots of potentially harmful chemicals in these sealants that could soak into your skin! Jubi seems like a nice chap. Pity he doesn't like applying sealant - it can be quite therapeutic and satisfying when you sweep through a few tricky points!
He is a nice chap. Even though he isn't keen on the job he volunteered to help us out.
He who enjoys the silicone gun is a god amongst men
It's a difficult job at the best of times guys, but if you are doing the whole job then you tend to plan ahead for that silicone day, ie.
as you are putting that tile on and notice its not quite square you don't think ha ha the silicon man will get round that!
No! you remove said tile and re-fit straight. Good job though lads under difficult circumstances... (us faceless lot watching
your every move! Id like to see some of these numpty's do it!)
I've moved on to using mainly CT1 for most jobs, with the multi-solve to help with the tooling up.
just don't use the wet wipes to clean it first,
as it reacts with the CT1 (stops it sticking properly), use the multi-solve to clean and dry it well before applying.
Excellent explanation on the way you think when executing . Thank you
1:38 ... bit of wonky mosaic tiling there...
theres always a picky ar*e
@@markhoward5780 hardly picky, if I was paying thousands for a bathroom like that you wouldn't expect tiles to be wonky, Roger himself has always said he hates the idea of someone sitting in the bath and being able to notice imperfections and that is definitely one!
Tiler here....first thing I noticed....They come on sheets usually 300x300mm or thereabouts. Tile shops sell even the shit ones per piece, but the cheap ones have pieces that are out of line and need to be manually corrected.
Great video, with honest advice. Thanks! What do you suggest for cleaning the Fugi tool if some silicone cures on it? Would acetone be advisable?
The best way to do silicone is get somebody else to do it 😬👍🏼🧱
Bricklaying With Steve and Alex yes this true NEVER do it your self
Andy Bell 👌🏼🧱👍🏽
@@andybell9245 There's nothing wrong with doing it yourself. Finding a 'professional' who will actually do a proper job is more difficult than siliconing it yourself.
Only use silicone with a BS number on the tube. If it hasn't then it may well contain recycled silicone and/or cheaper fillers rather than virgin silicone. Oh, and if the tube says 'bathroom sealant' and not silicone, then it is acrylic, and it WILL harden and shrink.
Thanks for that. Explains a lot!
I had no idea that recycled silicone, or cheap fillers, are sold on. Thanks for tip, I'll definitely keep an eye out in future.
Regarding acrylic sealant, 100% agreed. I discovered this years ago when I made foolish mistake of buying 'silicon' in B&Q. I grabbed an £11.00 tube assuming that the price would reflect the quality. When I squeezed out the first bead, it was so watery that it flew out. It was awful stuff and clearly has that acrylic smell.
By recycled I mean it has been processed once, not upto standard and gets chucked in with the cheaper products.
The best way to apply a silicone bead or any sealant is painters tape on both sides smooth is with you finger. Then remove the tape carefully and gently go over it with your finger dipped into soapy water to get a nice smooth consistent edge. Plus lots of paper towel.
They say you should never use tape as it raises the edges on removal
@@boyasaka read over the second part of my comment. That replies to what you’ve been told or read. I often silicone in my line of work and have found this to be the cleanest and nicest finish for customers.
Why wouldn't you mask off the mosaic tiles? Takes a couple minutes and saves all the mess.
True, but I always forget until I get the mess.....but the silicone matches the grout colour and for mosaics the grout is always epoxy....so hardly happens....
All in all, that's a bit of a shoddy job around the vanity, which is a shame, but those fujis are invaluable!
Nah looked fine to me although you couldn't really see the end result you know hes not going leave it looking shod, ive done a fair amount of fugi'ing to know its hard to not use a finger.
@@robthesamplist I was referring to the workmanship before he sealed it, (tiling and sill), tbf I didn't make that clear.
Who did the mosaics, it's all over,, pro tip get aluminium angle, cut it carefully down to the length of the mosaic work, then once a the tiles are in place insert the aluminium in the first horizontal grout line of the mosaics and pack as necessary to force the levels through casting the gaps to the counter top, just a thought, it's worked for me many times.
videos like this are extremely usefull
Thanks a great video with some helpful tips!
Neat mastic really finishes a job off nice, my silicone joint tool was a revelation, allows for nice uniform joints and makes me look good!
I wish I could find a little tool to make me look good.
Which are better to use the concave or straight bits thanks
Dow Corning. Always 👌🏼
Yep. And proper acetoxy 785+, not the new water-based stuff which is shite.
Had the bath to do at home so watched a number of videos on this subject as I'm rubbish at this sort of stuff. Thing is you need a bit of practice to get it right. I made my self a test corner from 2 pieces of clean off cut wood and had a go with that. OK, might be a waste of silicone but compared to your job that's relatively cheap and you get an idea of working time. Dow Corning silicone will skin over quite quickly, it's good stuff but you haven't got a lot of time with it. Their technical site is well worth a read as it tells you how to get an optimal seal and how much movement it'll take. As for using masking tape, I'd be careful with Frog Tape as it leaves a residue which can repel anything. The blue 3M's tape is good, stays intact and seems to peel away nice and cleanly, does cost though.
This tool works much better
One question. Why white silicone on a grey surface with grey tiles and grey grout?
It matches the white basin, white bath and white toilet. I guess you could argue it didn't match the wooden shelf/mosaic join but the overall look is really nice.
Plumbers only use white or sometimes translucent. I don't think plumbning merchants really get into colours. However TBH you could match 90% of jobs with Mapei 100 (White) 111 (Light Grey) 113 (Cement Grey) 114 (Anthracite) and 120 (Black-quite rare) 130 (Jasmine) There is also the 110 (Manhatten) and 112 (Mid Grey). Best thing is to give the tiler $50 to supply matching silicone to the grout for fit-off.
A tip from a builder who tried all the sealant tools to get the best finished bead said this. His tip is to use a cooking/baking fondant tool and that it is the best tool of all the tools he used. Has anyone tried a fondant tool?
no
Whats fondant? I had a funny uncle but not sure about a fond aunt???
Fondant tool - www.amazon.com/COSMOS-Fondant-gumpaste-Decorating-Modeling/dp/B01GE5K57C/ref=asc_df_B01GE5K57C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167129094649&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7535991492546616464&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029992&hvtargid=pla-305220138409&psc=1
Can you please send a link for fondant tool? Thanks
That’s a lot of silicone around that vanity counter top
I saw another program that said Not to use detergent/ soapy water because the silicon will not stick to any surface that has the detergent.
You use it afterwards
Great video, thank you. At around the 0:21 mark he uses padding to bridge the gap, what material could you use to bridge that gap? Thanks!
You can buy sponge rods to push in. The tiling was out of square on this but normally you don't need it
Am I right In saying if you your your saliva it can create mould quicker in your silicon?
Lol
Great video thank you!
When’s the next podcast coming. Really look forward to them
We have more coming up soon Leon
That guy has the world's unsteadiest hand.
You need to get out more Parkinsons is way more shaky.
hows the dot and dabbed tiles holding up? have the clients complained about the cold spots on the floor yet?
We have had a thermal imaging camera on those tiles and you can see all those mini dots gave a 90% adhesive coverage when pushed down, which complies with The British Standard. There are no cold spots and there is no sign of cracking grout. We will keep watching it but anyone who bet that it would fail within 8 weeks has lost their money.
Haha you just told taters you muppet
Skill Builder proper reply that 😎
@@SkillBuilder i look forward to the follow up video as promised
@@SkillBuilder 70% coverage in Australia, and no standards in New Zealand (yeah, this is a great place to live, just don't buy a house off the plans!). People go whah-whah over spot fixing but if areas are uneven it can be the most efficient method for a perfect finish, depending on a couple of things: 1) A strong (usually porcelain) tile 2) HIGH quality latex modified C2S1 adhesive (preferably with liquid latex also added 25-50% 3) A solid substrate .
My tip is I’m not telling anybody!But it’s missing in this video.😜
Il say one thing,I use the tool the other way round.The angled edge hitting the silicone first.
No no no....
I wish I could upload the photo on the front of the box. He's using them the correct way round.
Phillip Kelly 5:50 < click , it’s back to front. That’s the back of the tool.
Some good pointers but not the way I would approach it generally.
i do all my friends and familys shower trays and bath units ... if you got the tools then you got no excuses
White sprit, that's my favourite, with CT1
I give a quick wipe with meths/white paper before I seal up. Also sometimes use frog tape.
The meths is good but the Frog tape is for water based products. The edges of the tape absorb moisture so the paint has a crisp line.
I just use it for sealant when needed. Lay the tape where suitable, squeeze the bead, profile it, and remove the tape. I haven't used it for painting but thanks for the heads up.
Are the UniBond sealants any good for bathrooms? I've found Dow or ForeverWhite best for least chance of mould
That was the customer's choice. I like Forever White but we will see
yeah, stick with what you are using already.
Dow Corning is the best by far.
Little tip for the easiest way to finish nicely is to seal your vanity/sink and bath prior to fitting the taps, that way they aren't in the way. If you use plenty of spit or washing liquid on your finger you can actually move or manipulate the sealant around with out it sticking to yourself 👍
dayyuuuuumm,,,, thats some fine silliconing right there
try pushing the silicone, not pulling it
Thanks for video siliconeing is my nemesis lol
Don't forget plenty of loo or blue roll to clean 'em off. Those profilers are tip top. My tee shirts are slowly turning into wet suits... I always forget the loo or blue roll.
Lol my t shirts too. I can stand most of them up now.
Ah, but do your socks walk their own way to the wash basket at the end of a hot day? Now that...is class!
Cut off some nice thin strips of cardboard from wherever you're working there's always someone site they act as good swipe off areas
Surprised this bloke is on this channel.
Why? Who is he?
Don't put small tiles were silicone needs doing...i will remember that one 😫😄
What did you use as padding at the start
Tampons
Should be using a darker caulk.
Rodger I’m surprised you’ve got him on your channel!! 🤨
How did you get that tool between the bath and the wall closest to it? 🤣
he didn't, fat finger
Nobody can see that back edge. It is an ice lolly stick job.
Why do most of these demos never show the profiling tool on the corners?
We will do that in our next video, thanks for the suggestion.
Never use a finger on silicone. You’ll get mould in a matter of weeks
They've been saying that story for years and I have seen no proof. Normal AC silicone is full of Acetic Acid and most have mould inhibitors. Tell your clients not to wash with bar soaps, that ruins silicone fast.
been using my finger for years always get a clean smooth finish ,no mess and no mould ,everytime i silicone never see any mould for years ,had mine around my bath for over five years and still looks good. The key is when you shower or bath always wipe dry after.Use tape ,wet finger one wipe take off tape one wipe again and done ,all this faffing around with tools jeez make an easy job into a scientific one.The only thing to make sure you do is buy a good quality silicone.
@@182britania I always use my fingers on my girlfriend and she does not have mold either
@@superchickensoup Strange I've been using my fingers on her too but mine have went all black. 😜
should have put the feet on the wall and the counter top. it is the only way to get a perfect line and erase the use of the unsightly finger
very cool
White silicone on Brown???? Hmmm
Even the black would have been better
Your using the profile back to front ya dimlow
No he's not!
I wondered what happened to Mr Muscle
Great tools to have but the only awkward part of this is the choice of tiles round that vanity unit.... it’s a struggle with those mosaics and silicone however good you are!
why use white silicon on dark adjoine
One of life's eternal mysteries.
Every experience d window fitted currently cancelling
Masking tape can be handy when siliconeing
Tools back to front
Fugen Boy beats Fugi all day long, its the quality of the tool. Also no need for builders wipes as mentioned below or toilet paper like the vid. Cheap baby wipes. Thank me later :)
Clear silicone is better, but the installation has to be perfect,, i can't stand bleed out on tiles because of silicone colour, very annoying, very similar to a work top protruding beyond a tall larder cupboard, one of my pet hates, and one I've never done myself can't stand it when shop fitting principles are not exemplified in domestic kitchens, it's very poor planning.
If you spray it with fairy water and then go over it you'll get a better finish
When you get really good you can do it free hand with no extra tools.
If you live long enough to acquire that skill.
@@SkillBuilder I'm a full time tradesman so has plenty of practice.
I learnt abseiling in London. Get them good from the gun, quick finger she's a gooden and silicone looks ok too
@@MT_T991
Ah the old rope access game, I did a little bit of that but got fed up with all the hanging about. Are you a rock climber?
Oh, it's like open heart surgery, or bomb disposal, the tension, my buttocks were clenched at times watching this.
I find with bomb disposal it is best to get someone else in and have the day off, which is what I did here. Open heart surgery, on the other hand, is just plumbing so a mirror, torch and a good sharp Stanley knife is all you need. What's the worst that can happen?
Why use white silicone!
I would Use mid gray
That is fine by us. You can use any colour you like. If the customer wants white then it is white.
Can you get black silicone?
Yes
Hate to be that guy but a coloured silicone to match the tile grout would have looked much better and not stand out as much as the white.
But the tip about sanding the bath is a good one!
@@tommarkm8058 Hi Tom
The trouble with coloured silicones is that you need a different one for each surface. The white goes with all the sanitary ware and the bath. It might not be an exact match for the grout but what would it look like around that bath?
@@SkillBuilderi agree the white looks better around the bath and toilet, I didnt explain that very well. Just think matching the grout colour around that shelf with the silicone would have matched up nicer, especially with it being on darker surfaces.
The devil himself invented mosaic tiles
Thank Ya!!! Great Job!!!
You said use lots of paper towel and then wiped your finger on your trousers 🤦♂️
If you were acetoxy cure silicone that might be why it didn't stick to your bath, it can be funny on some surfaces like that, PVC is the worst, I had it fail several times on some PVC panels. Use a neutral cure silicone, it will stick better.
Yup. Mapei or Ardex neutral cures are pretty spot on.
@@grrinc Only used Dow myself, seems to do a good job.
Good comment. a lot of people don't know which to use where. Acetoxy makes a mess of chrome.
I use a spray bottle of soapy water. (A weak solution). After I've applied the silicon I very lightly mist the area with the soapy water, this stops the excess silicon smearing all over the place when you use the fugi. Only time you have to watch is when you are applying to a textured surface, I find it's better done the old fashioned way, with you're finger. (Said the actress to..........)
But it also weakens the bonding process
I think that cards been used for things other then Silicone..
Clearly this guy doesn't do silicone really often as the way he use those pads indicates to me he just lern how to use them but everyone no one born with this knowledge.
You don't use soapy water 🤬
Is that a question or a statement?
So many people douse the unfinished bead with water before smoothing or tooling it out.
Even though most silicone sealants will state on their instructions “Do not allow to get wet for at least 24 hours”
So many times I’ve had to re do silicone and it comes off In almost full strips because it hadn’t adhered to the surfaces properly.
It’s not just about making it look good, it also has to perform an important task.
Wetting it before tooling it allows water to come between the silicone and the surface to which you are trying to adhere .
Νο masking tape?
That's not a credit card it an EE router password card. if you're going to do this job get everything right because people like me will spot the slightest mistake. obviously you don't know a credit card from a password card
We are so glad you are keeping an eye on things. Imagine what could have happened there if he had actually used it.
20mm looks better imo
This tooks way too long for a professional. In such a bath you does usually have 35-50 meter Silicon to do. You have to do it in 2-3h hours or you are losing money. And don't youse any soap, only use neutral soaps with ph around 7,5 otherwise your fungicide in the silicone will be destroyed by the acid and mold will come sooner.
should have used clear silicone. Always looks neat then lol
For the world wide definitive guide to silicone application see here.
ruclips.net/video/_DI4hfHM_Hg/видео.html
Not a bad effort though Skill Builder!
What an absolute joke
This is horrific just getting worse for you roger 🤦🏻♂️
Very expensive bathroom and all I would see forever is the mosaic tiles out of line.
We don't actually know it was an expensive bathroom. Clients would have got a deal for filming etc perhaps....
Cowards way out use the magic finger
Keep trying mate 😂😂
Hell, that whole environment is kinda "dark'ish", so why the hell he's using *WHITE* silicone??? Transparent silicone would have been my choice, followed by black. Both available without much added cost.
Why is this man doing this video? Because he has no idea what t f he’s doing! A finger is no excuse for knowing what you may think you know! All he’s going to do is get amateur or diy’s into trouble and covered in silicon! Very poor advise!!! 39 years in the trade says I know what I’m talking about!
neutral cure silicone a good finger always perfect, haven't got time for all these stupid little gadgets and a waste of a full toilet roll lol
NC is not as robust as AC and also more expensive. Toilet rolls are cheap.
Sorry but thought that to be poor work manship awful gap just poor attention to detail.