Great job! Unlike the previous commenter, I want and need all of the information I can get. They're lots of places I can find Visual without the real detail. With regard to not owning a wide enough blade to make one pass with the saw to rod. I can see why you don't own one as they're quite expensive. I would experiment with a couple of Harbor Freight Diamond blades you can either stack them or separate them with a washer to get the with your looking for. When HF has their blades on sale this would cost you a fraction and it isn't difficult to fix the blades to the saw. I don't use the turbo blades shown I use the wet continuous blades bcz they're thinner. I dont know, try it with the turbo blades and see if that works. I hope that helps Doc
Thanks for the info. I will try that on my next counter top. That should be late summer with the cottage tear down and rebuild series starting in about a month.
Right now, I'm in the planning stage for a DIY granite countertop. A few questions, if you have time for them: 1) What was that white wax pen that you used to mark the granite called? To spare me the trial & error of buying one without knowing, I'd love a recommendation! 2) What diameter hole-saw did you use, and is that a standard (or at least typical kitchen) size? 3) Has your opinion about embedding a steel support changed since filming this? I'd be concerned with rust, and so I'm considering using a wood/steel under-support. Thanks for any help!
Sorry for the late response. Crazy buy schedule. The marker I use I get from BBIndustries. Here is the link to the product. www.bbindustriesllc.com/skm-industrial-grade-white-paint-marker-w-metal-tip-01295.html The hole size for the faucet is a 1 3/8". The corners for the sink cutout is a 3" and the round over bit for the edging is a 3/8" All can be found at BBIndustries. Here is the link to the home page. www.bbindustriesllc.com/?msclkid=40b54be548e81bdff3222dac3fc956f2&US%20Search%3A%20Branded%3A%20Braxton-Bragg%20-%20JF&Braxton-Bragg If you are concerned with rust you can use either fiberglass or carbon fiber rodding. Here is a link to the place where I buy all my supplies. it will take you to the page. Just scroll down to see the different types. www.bbindustriesllc.com/sinks.html My next countertop for the lake house teardown rebuild series I will be using either the fiberglass or the carbon fiber. I have to due some more research on it. Thanks for watching.
That depends on how warm it is. All I really do is wait until the granite looks dry. 5 to 10 minutes in the sun. If it is not 100% dry the water will evaporate out the bottom of the stone where it is not sealed from the factory. Once it looks dry you are good. Plenty of other things to do while waiting for it to dry. If you can’t wait then use a hair dryer to speed the process.
@@designbuildandfix yes thanks it worked out just the way you said I actually blew out the slots with a leaf blower and got them dry in a minute or two. And you're right you can see when the granite is dry. I did mess up with the epoxy little bit I put too much hardener. And by the time I start pouring the second slot it was hardening already. So I had to dig it out which was not easy. Start over on the second slot
Sorry for the late response. It is a Flex which has a water attachment. Here is a link to where I bought mine from. I am not sponsored by them. www.bbindustriesllc.com/power-tools-accessories/circular-saws/flex.html
Can you please let me know the brand hole saw you used and where you got it. Thanks. I tried a brand from Lowe’s and harbor freight and did not have luck. Thanks
I use Braxton Bragg's version. They are a supplier of granite cutting tools and accessories. They are very good and knowledgeable about cutting and can answer just about any questions if needed. Here is the link to their site. www.bbindustriesllc.com/?msclkid=6e2b8678f8ae1d4bc904e59191d04246&Branded%3A%20Search%3A%20Braxton-Bragg%20(US)%20-%20JF&Braxton-Bragg Just fyi anytime you buy any cutters from the box stores you are always getting the low end version of the cutting tools. Hope this helps!!!
Never use metal rods they rust after years and the granite will crack replaced 100 of tops because of metal rods try buying fiberglass rods I havnt rodded pieces in years maybe invest in panel handlers never have rod again and sink savers
Thanks for the info. I have not had any problems yet. Lets hope I don't. I will definitely change to fiberglass. I am always looking to produce a better product!!!
@@designbuildandfixagreed with this commenter. Use fiberglass. If moisture gets to the rod it will rust and expand causing a crack/breakage. Even the fiberglass rods have recently caused similar cracking on a Breche Notre Dame (marble) top I installed about 15 years ago. Probably safe on granite/quartzite.
Sorry to hear this. The rodding and sink cut out is very important. If not done correctly the whole countertop could be destroyed costing thousands of dollars. I did not want to leave out any information. On the other side of this I will admit the granite videos were some of my first videos I created. They do tent to be longer. Thanks for the input. I will modify and adjust.
lol if you can afford the granite but not the hole saw, you should probably rethink your choices on a countertop 😂
Nice video
Thanks for commenting. Glad you liked it.
Great video ! Thanks for sharing it with us !
Great job! Unlike the previous commenter, I want and need all of the information I can get. They're lots of places I can find Visual without the real detail. With regard to not owning a wide enough blade to make one pass with the saw to rod. I can see why you don't own one as they're quite expensive. I would experiment with a couple of Harbor Freight Diamond blades you can either stack them or separate them with a washer to get the with your looking for. When HF has their blades on sale this would cost you a fraction and it isn't difficult to fix the blades to the saw. I don't use the turbo blades shown I use the wet continuous blades bcz they're thinner.
I dont know, try it with the turbo blades and see if that works.
I hope that helps
Doc
Thanks for the info. I will try that on my next counter top. That should be late summer with the cottage tear down and rebuild series starting in about a month.
Very inspiring video. Thank you!
I am glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Right now, I'm in the planning stage for a DIY granite countertop. A few questions, if you have time for them:
1) What was that white wax pen that you used to mark the granite called? To spare me the trial & error of buying one without knowing, I'd love a recommendation!
2) What diameter hole-saw did you use, and is that a standard (or at least typical kitchen) size?
3) Has your opinion about embedding a steel support changed since filming this? I'd be concerned with rust, and so I'm considering using a wood/steel under-support.
Thanks for any help!
Sorry for the late response. Crazy buy schedule. The marker I use I get from BBIndustries. Here is the link to the product. www.bbindustriesllc.com/skm-industrial-grade-white-paint-marker-w-metal-tip-01295.html
The hole size for the faucet is a 1 3/8". The corners for the sink cutout is a 3" and the round over bit for the edging is a 3/8" All can be found at BBIndustries. Here is the link to the home page. www.bbindustriesllc.com/?msclkid=40b54be548e81bdff3222dac3fc956f2&US%20Search%3A%20Branded%3A%20Braxton-Bragg%20-%20JF&Braxton-Bragg
If you are concerned with rust you can use either fiberglass or carbon fiber rodding. Here is a link to the place where I buy all my supplies. it will take you to the page. Just scroll down to see the different types. www.bbindustriesllc.com/sinks.html
My next countertop for the lake house teardown rebuild series I will be using either the fiberglass or the carbon fiber. I have to due some more research on it. Thanks for watching.
thank you for the great video.
thank you for sharing.
How long did you let the granite dry after using water to cut in the rod slots? Thanks
That depends on how warm it is. All I really do is wait until the granite looks dry. 5 to 10 minutes in the sun. If it is not 100% dry the water will evaporate out the bottom of the stone where it is not sealed from the factory. Once it looks dry you are good. Plenty of other things to do while waiting for it to dry. If you can’t wait then use a hair dryer to speed the process.
@@designbuildandfix yes thanks it worked out just the way you said I actually blew out the slots with a leaf blower and got them dry in a minute or two. And you're right you can see when the granite is dry. I did mess up with the epoxy little bit I put too much hardener. And by the time I start pouring the second slot it was hardening already. So I had to dig it out which was not easy. Start over on the second slot
@@spokeman I have the same tendency to put more hardener in then needed. I would rather be save then sorry and not have it harden.
What is the name of that saw you use to cut the straight lines on the stone?
Sorry for the late response. It is a Flex which has a water attachment. Here is a link to where I bought mine from. I am not sponsored by them. www.bbindustriesllc.com/power-tools-accessories/circular-saws/flex.html
Can you please let me know the brand hole saw you used and where you got it. Thanks. I tried a brand from Lowe’s and harbor freight and did not have luck. Thanks
I use Braxton Bragg's version. They are a supplier of granite cutting tools and accessories. They are very good and knowledgeable about cutting and can answer just about any questions if needed. Here is the link to their site.
www.bbindustriesllc.com/?msclkid=6e2b8678f8ae1d4bc904e59191d04246&Branded%3A%20Search%3A%20Braxton-Bragg%20(US)%20-%20JF&Braxton-Bragg
Just fyi anytime you buy any cutters from the box stores you are always getting the low end version of the cutting tools. Hope this helps!!!
Never use metal rods they rust after years and the granite will crack replaced 100 of tops because of metal rods try buying fiberglass rods I havnt rodded pieces in years maybe invest in panel handlers never have rod again and sink savers
Thanks for the info. I have not had any problems yet. Lets hope I don't. I will definitely change to fiberglass. I am always looking to produce a better product!!!
@@designbuildandfixagreed with this commenter. Use fiberglass. If moisture gets to the rod it will rust and expand causing a crack/breakage. Even the fiberglass rods have recently caused similar cracking on a Breche Notre Dame (marble) top I installed about 15 years ago. Probably safe on granite/quartzite.
@@IamTheJesus69 o
Lol 3 inch Core bit is not that easy to pop
Yes I agree. But with some practice they get easier. Thanks for commenting.
You may be excellent at doing this but your explanation was too long and windy. I lost interest around the 18 th chapter of the book.
Sorry to hear this. The rodding and sink cut out is very important. If not done correctly the whole countertop could be destroyed costing thousands of dollars. I did not want to leave out any information. On the other side of this I will admit the granite videos were some of my first videos I created. They do tent to be longer. Thanks for the input. I will modify and adjust.