Haha. Not a whole lot to the kit. I think Woodland Scenics bought all the molds after DPM went out of business. I understand there's some love for these old DPM kits, so it was good of Woodland Scenics to save them. The quality is pretty marginal, but with a little TLC it can be made to look good. Thanks for watching!
Merry Christmas, Mike! I hope Santa brings you some nice stuff! I'm currently working on part 3, building an LED lighting circuit for the building. In part 2 the DPM kit gets weathering and a little scratching building. I hope you check out part 2 on January 4th. I appreciate you watching!
I purchased the mortar awhile ago while i was building a summit custom cuts kit. He suggested Robert's. The first time I used it i did the sponge method with less than stellar results. The next kit, I wrapped a microfiber towel around the index finger and rubbed it off. Seemed like that was the ticket. For the crevices and corners, I used a micro brush that was dampened and that worked well also.
Sounds like a good method! The grout lines of the kit are and wide and the molding of the brick edges is soft so it's hard to get clean mortar lines. But it is a budget kit so I'm trying not to be too critical. Each model is an opportunity to learn something. I may give your microfiber towel a try next time. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching!
You might try a wash over the bricks in the end. Don't forget the front door awning. From extra styrene you can have a loading dock and an awning above it to give it character. One detail a lot of people miss with flat roofs is the tar line just under the bricks that is used to seal the roof. Looking good!
Thanks DK. I have a gooseneck light that I'm putting over the entry door. Yep, I made a loading dock and awning from the scrap styrene. I'll cover all of that in part 2 and the LED lighting in part 3. Thanks for watching!
DPM kits aren't perfect, but are very reasonably priced. If you dont mind doing some extra sanding and maybe a little puttying, you'll get a nice result. These kits are ideal for kit-bashing because of price and different DPM kits match up nice with others. Peace.
Totally agree. They are value priced where a modeler can overlook the shortcomings, and with a bit of extra work can end up with a nice looking structure. I have a small box full of modular DPM pieces. I don't remember buying them, but I must have had the same idea as what you're saying about kit bashing. Thanks for watching!
It looks pretty good. Some building kits obviously "have their own learning curve". I use "Liquitex Modeling Paste", as an acrylic putty, and you can color it, and thin it with water. I'd take the paste and rub it into the bricks, then come back with a wet paper towel and drag it straight down to simulate mortar leeching from rain. I'd also paint the bottom section in grey to make it more interesting. Adding custom awnings, made from cardstock would look nice in the upper windows. And of course, some grime on the doors would be good, too.
That sounds like a really good method, Paul. And you get a little pre-weathering done. The building is going to go in the Stonewall section as a trackside building. I scratch built a loading dock, stairs and dock awning that I go over in part 2. A little grime is always good. 🙂 It took me a while to get in sync with the model, but it started coming to me in part 2. As always, thanks for watching!
Steve ….. my brother and I have a few DPM kits . Ours turned out pretty darn good just like yours ! I think 🤔 yours is perfect 👌! Merry Christmas 🎄 Steve !
Merry Christmas Kraig! I hope you're on the good list and Santa brings you some nice stuff! Yes, I'm into the model. Often times there's a point when working on a model that I make a connection to it. Where I get in sync with it. That happens in part 2 when I'm weathering the model. So, I'm having fun with it! I'm sure your DPM kits look amazing and are great additions to your layout. I appreciate you watching!
Nice! I hope you got a good price; they seem to be very affordable. With a little TLC the DPM kits can look nice. Enjoy your kits and thanks for watching!
Thanks! It was a bit of a rough start but it's shaping up. I hope you come back for part 2 and see the building after weathering. I appreciate you watching!
DPM kits need a very understated mortar treatment. I use ready mix spackle and rub it into the mortar lines on the wall, then scrub off the brick face with a moistened paper towel or q-tip. Next kit, I'm going to try a very thin gray wash. Your brickwork was excellent, even the first try. You did a great job picking out and highlighting the random bricks in a couple different colors. Only possible change I would have made is a few less of the buff colored bricks. You can see a lot of the darker bricks in most buildings; my understanding is that higher temperatures during the brick firing process tends to make bricks darker.
I might try some other mortar techniques in the future but I've been using the Robert's Brick Mortar formula for a while. The molding on the DPM kits isn't as sharp as on newer Walthers kits so the DPM model needs a bit more work with the mortar. The buff-colored bricks tend to get washed away by the mortar, so they aren't really noticeable. Staying with darker colored accent bricks is the way to go. In part 2 I apply weathering to the model, and it really starts coming together. I hope you check it out on Jan 4th. Thanks for watching!
@@SPSteve The DPM kits first came out in the 90s, as I recall, so we're talking 20-30 year old molds, and simpler molds than the one Walthers uses. For the price, they're pretty good, but they can be finicky to clean up some bits. There is more of a mold release angle on the sides of the parts than on a lot of other kits, and that's one reason you need to sand the "unetched" sides flat and there can be a bit of an angle on the "etched" corners after assembly.
@@Jan-hx9rw 90's huh, I was thinking 70's or 80's. Haha They are what they are, and I agree, for the price they're fine. I have the model weathered and it looks pretty decent. I'm definitely going to use it on my layout.
I really appreciate you taking us through the good, bad, and ugly. Look forward to part 2 and 3. I use the Robert's Brick Mortar as well. It overall is a nice product but I regularly experience the residue that you have. Even after several "spongings" and clear coating, I get the same results you do. If you want that aged looked I guess a bit of residue is ok. May I ask what you clean your airbrush with after shooting clear coat through it?
I have a video coming up on the 25th that shows how I back flush my airbrush. I use paint that is compatible with lacquer thinner, so I do an initial clean with Medea Airbrush Cleaner and then follow up with lacquer thinner. I think we have to be realistic on what we're getting with a $20 structure kit. For the money it's OK. In part 2 the DPM kit starts coming alive with oil paint weathering. I think in the end it'll be fine for my layout. Thanks for watching!
It has been 30 years since I built my last structure kit. I'll be building one over the holiday break. I think it is honest to show that things don't always go to plan on the first pass. I suspect I will be making my share of mistakes on this upcoming project. Also it will be my first time using an airbrush on a kit.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Instructions: Glue it together!! funny ;) I built a train station from them, it was pretty easy
Haha. Not a whole lot to the kit. I think Woodland Scenics bought all the molds after DPM went out of business. I understand there's some love for these old DPM kits, so it was good of Woodland Scenics to save them. The quality is pretty marginal, but with a little TLC it can be made to look good. Thanks for watching!
Great share Steve turned out great like all the technique you shared with us. Enjoy your day and Merry Christmas to you as well
Merry Christmas, Mike! I hope Santa brings you some nice stuff! I'm currently working on part 3, building an LED lighting circuit for the building. In part 2 the DPM kit gets weathering and a little scratching building. I hope you check out part 2 on January 4th. I appreciate you watching!
When I have built DMP kits I’ve had good luck painting the mortar first and then dry brushing the bricks.
Not a bad idea. I think that would be effective. It'd be fun to experiment with that.
I purchased the mortar awhile ago while i was building a summit custom cuts kit. He suggested Robert's. The first time I used it i did the sponge method with less than stellar results. The next kit, I wrapped a microfiber towel around the index finger and rubbed it off. Seemed like that was the ticket. For the crevices and corners, I used a micro brush that was dampened and that worked well also.
Sounds like a good method! The grout lines of the kit are and wide and the molding of the brick edges is soft so it's hard to get clean mortar lines. But it is a budget kit so I'm trying not to be too critical. Each model is an opportunity to learn something. I may give your microfiber towel a try next time. Thanks for the suggestion and thanks for watching!
You might try a wash over the bricks in the end. Don't forget the front door awning. From extra styrene you can have a loading dock and an awning above it to give it character. One detail a lot of people miss with flat roofs is the tar line just under the bricks that is used to seal the roof. Looking good!
Thanks DK. I have a gooseneck light that I'm putting over the entry door. Yep, I made a loading dock and awning from the scrap styrene. I'll cover all of that in part 2 and the LED lighting in part 3. Thanks for watching!
DPM kits aren't perfect, but are very reasonably priced. If you dont mind doing some extra sanding and maybe a little puttying, you'll get a nice result. These kits are ideal for kit-bashing because of price and different DPM kits match up nice with others. Peace.
Totally agree. They are value priced where a modeler can overlook the shortcomings, and with a bit of extra work can end up with a nice looking structure.
I have a small box full of modular DPM pieces. I don't remember buying them, but I must have had the same idea as what you're saying about kit bashing. Thanks for watching!
It looks pretty good. Some building kits obviously "have their own learning curve". I use "Liquitex Modeling Paste", as an acrylic putty, and you can color it, and thin it with water. I'd take the paste and rub it into the bricks, then come back with a wet paper towel and drag it straight down to simulate mortar leeching from rain. I'd also paint the bottom section in grey to make it more interesting. Adding custom awnings, made from cardstock would look nice in the upper windows. And of course, some grime on the doors would be good, too.
That sounds like a really good method, Paul. And you get a little pre-weathering done. The building is going to go in the Stonewall section as a trackside building. I scratch built a loading dock, stairs and dock awning that I go over in part 2. A little grime is always good. 🙂 It took me a while to get in sync with the model, but it started coming to me in part 2. As always, thanks for watching!
Steve ….. my brother and I have a few DPM kits . Ours turned out pretty darn good just like yours ! I think 🤔 yours is perfect 👌! Merry Christmas 🎄 Steve !
Merry Christmas Kraig! I hope you're on the good list and Santa brings you some nice stuff! Yes, I'm into the model. Often times there's a point when working on a model that I make a connection to it. Where I get in sync with it. That happens in part 2 when I'm weathering the model. So, I'm having fun with it! I'm sure your DPM kits look amazing and are great additions to your layout. I appreciate you watching!
you are an artist
Thanks Jerry, I appreciate you watching!
Thanks. I just got 2 kits from eBay !
Nice! I hope you got a good price; they seem to be very affordable. With a little TLC the DPM kits can look nice. Enjoy your kits and thanks for watching!
Nice
Thanks! It was a bit of a rough start but it's shaping up. I hope you come back for part 2 and see the building after weathering. I appreciate you watching!
DPM kits need a very understated mortar treatment. I use ready mix spackle and rub it into the mortar lines on the wall, then scrub off the brick face with a moistened paper towel or q-tip. Next kit, I'm going to try a very thin gray wash.
Your brickwork was excellent, even the first try. You did a great job picking out and highlighting the random bricks in a couple different colors. Only possible change I would have made is a few less of the buff colored bricks. You can see a lot of the darker bricks in most buildings; my understanding is that higher temperatures during the brick firing process tends to make bricks darker.
I might try some other mortar techniques in the future but I've been using the Robert's Brick Mortar formula for a while. The molding on the DPM kits isn't as sharp as on newer Walthers kits so the DPM model needs a bit more work with the mortar. The buff-colored bricks tend to get washed away by the mortar, so they aren't really noticeable. Staying with darker colored accent bricks is the way to go. In part 2 I apply weathering to the model, and it really starts coming together. I hope you check it out on Jan 4th. Thanks for watching!
@@SPSteve The DPM kits first came out in the 90s, as I recall, so we're talking 20-30 year old molds, and simpler molds than the one Walthers uses. For the price, they're pretty good, but they can be finicky to clean up some bits. There is more of a mold release angle on the sides of the parts than on a lot of other kits, and that's one reason you need to sand the "unetched" sides flat and there can be a bit of an angle on the "etched" corners after assembly.
@@Jan-hx9rw 90's huh, I was thinking 70's or 80's. Haha They are what they are, and I agree, for the price they're fine. I have the model weathered and it looks pretty decent. I'm definitely going to use it on my layout.
I really appreciate you taking us through the good, bad, and ugly. Look forward to part 2 and 3. I use the Robert's Brick Mortar as well. It overall is a nice product but I regularly experience the residue that you have. Even after several "spongings" and clear coating, I get the same results you do. If you want that aged looked I guess a bit of residue is ok. May I ask what you clean your airbrush with after shooting clear coat through it?
I have a video coming up on the 25th that shows how I back flush my airbrush. I use paint that is compatible with lacquer thinner, so I do an initial clean with Medea Airbrush Cleaner and then follow up with lacquer thinner.
I think we have to be realistic on what we're getting with a $20 structure kit. For the money it's OK. In part 2 the DPM kit starts coming alive with oil paint weathering. I think in the end it'll be fine for my layout. Thanks for watching!
@@SPSteve thanks. I will be on the lookout for the videos.
Try painting a little thinner, more air less paint and do more coats.
Not sure what you're talking about?
Is there a church near you? Heard some bells in the background
No church, but I live on a busy street corner so there is often activity near me.
Oh, that's probably the clock in my house.
It has been 30 years since I built my last structure kit. I'll be building one over the holiday break. I think it is honest to show that things don't always go to plan on the first pass. I suspect I will be making my share of mistakes on this upcoming project. Also it will be my first time using an airbrush on a kit.