Ender 3 V3 PLUS Review - The BIGGEST Ender 3 is here!
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- The Ender 3 V3 PLUS is the newest high speed 3D printer with klipper from Creality. First test, Unboxing and Review Up to 600mm/s, auto bed level, auto Z offset, touch screen, PEI build plate, optional camera makes it an excellent large Core XZ 3D printer. #ender3v3 #ender3 #3dprinting
Ender 3 V3 PLUS : shrsl.com/4mqvs
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Smaller Version
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A couple of things:
- the flexible plate is double-sided. One side is textured while the other side is smooth. The slicer actually has the option to select which side your are printing on. I have a feeling that this is to tell the printer how to handle the first layer. With the benchy, when printed on the textured side, the text on the bottom isn't really readable. When printed on the smooth side, it is.
- For those thinking of getting one, to avoid clogs, only use the menu option to RETRACT and remember to UNLOCK the top button once that's done.
Then put in the next filament, down into the extruder and LOCK (move the lever to the left).
This should avoid clogs.
OH, for those interested, if you want to plug in the camera AND a usb key, you can by using a tiny portable USB hub! It works!
Hope that helps.
Saw this video. Bought one.
Might be time for me to upgrade my old Ender 3!
i just upgraded my Ender 3 Pro to the Ender 3 V3 plus ... trust me you wont regret it.
After installing the CR Touch I've not been able to get my Ender 3 working right - I just gave up.
Time to sell mine and get this bad boy.
I have the old cr10 v3, it also has the diagonal bars, Im still getting ZBanding /wobblings with tall prints
If only I could afford one of these, this thing looks amazing!
You don't wanna miss the BackToSchool promotion
This or the K2Plus coming up? 🤓
i have it and its awesome
Had nothing but problems with this printer. Got new parts sent out and installed, bought a dyer for moisture still blocking constantly....
When you say "blocking" do you mean that the extruder itself is getting clogged?
If so, perhaps you are doing what I did on my 1st day with this printer.
I clogged the extruder right after the 1st benchy test!
I was trying to take out the filament, but was doing it wrong!
As it turns out, this printer is pretty smart and that includes properly RETRACTing the filament without our intervention until the very end.
In case you were trying to just pull it out like I was doing, do this instead....
- First make sure that the little silver lock is over to the left (locked position).
- Go into the menu on the printer (the 3 little lines).
- Press RETRACT and then do nothing until the entire process ends!!
The RETRACT process is actually really good and logical.
- It first heats the nozzle.
- Then, once hot, it actually EXTRUDES a little bit.
- After that, then then RETRACTS in a back and forth motion! That's a brilliant idea to keep it from sticking!
When it has completed its function, then UNLOCK the locking button on top, with your finger, push down the little white ring that locks the PTFE tube. Pull out the tube and the filament should now just pop out. If not, just give it a little tug. The tip will be right at the top there and will come out easily and consistently.
Since I learned to let the machine do its thing, I haven't had a single clog.
Hope that helps.
I've only had for 2 weeks and it's clogged horribly, and I think the gears are damaged from the unclogging tool.. wtf.
I realize that your comment is over 2 months ago.
Have you been able to clean it out?
On the very day I set mine up, I got it clogged after the 1st benchy test.
It was MY OWN FAULT!
I didn't realize that to add or remove filament, the printer has its own built in function for that.
So not understanding how the machine does it, I went to that Extrude/Retract option and rather than pressing RETRACT and just letting the machine finish the process, I started to pull on the filament.
It broke off inside the head! Nothing I could do would remove the clog. I did finally get that cleaning pin to go through, but it was tight.
So I searched YT for this and found a vid on how to take apart this extruder.
As it turns out, it's very easy.
I took it apart, being careful to not let any gears fall out (the vid warned of that).
First, I was impressed with the build of this extruder.
Right away, I saw the problem. There were 2 little pieces of plastic blocking the hole in the path of the filament, at the point where it leaves the extruder.
The gears where just fine!
I removed that and everything is just great!
If you end up doing this, please just note where each screw goes. I marked their locations on a piece of paper and put each screw in that spot. This is important!
I sure hope that you got or get your machine working.
Creality Print 5.1 was making my v3 plus bang and clunk, and ultimately fail prints.
Im looking for every possible weak spot or possible problem area on this one. Every new printer that comes out from creality, it seems like within days people are modding them to fix issues. I bought the KE and boy is it a big flimsy plastic bundle of a printer. I wish they would redisign that warped, stampped out, thin aluminum bed. All I've ever owned is Creality. Not sure I will anymore.
This one is what you ask for XD
someone could fix the problem with the noise? is to noisy when is printing, a friend of mine told me to exchange the hardware but I don´t know which exactly hardware could be...
Where did you get the millennium falcon stand from?
its in makerworld
When I got mine it sounds like the bearings are shot it's very loud. It was like that straight out of the box. It seems crealaity has bad quality checks it hit or miss.
It seems someone’s spelling is a hit or miss…
I just got 2 of these machines, because I bought one, loved it so much I bought the 2nd.
Under normal use, I find they are not noisy at all.
Sure, sometimes where there are some short fast movements, it can shake a bit.
I wonder if the loud sound you are talking about, is when it's doing "Input Shaping" analyzation as part of its first calibration???
It gets very loud, rumbles and shakes because it's shaking the extruder and bed at different fast frequencies in order to build a map (Input Shaping) that is uses during prints to keep the prints nice and smooth. This is an amazing feature.
But yeah, during that, it gets noisy and that's normal.
Now, if you're talking about a rough sound when either the bed moves front to back or the extruder moves back and forth, if you have THIS printer, with the linear rods (not the rollers kind) then it could be that the rods are dry.
With the printer is included a little tube of grease. I'm not a fan of grease, but it's better than nothing.
If you haven't done so (and on a regular basis) power off and unplug the printer.
Take this grease and apply it to the rods, all around, all over. Of course, you'll have to move the bed and extruder to get them all.
Just be careful to not get grease on the belts. I got a bit, but wiped it right off immediately.
As for future lubing of the rods, I'll be using a "dry" PTFE spray. I bought that for my old printer which I had never thought to lubricate before. LOL
I saw that many were using this because others using this reported that by it being dry, it doesn't attract or collect dust or bits of plastic.
When using that, of course, I'll put a cloth to cover everything that I don't want lubricated.
I hope that you solved the issue because these are great printers.
Looks like a decent printer.
However, due to their horrible/non-existent customer service, I will personally NEVER buy anything from Creality, ever again.
This even includes filament.
They are just horrible at customer service, and I just wouldn't support them anymore.
Personally I have had good support from Creality. They even replaced my K1C door even though it was my fault.
@@s.leegooding1827 Wow. That's shocking. I have had nothing but trouble from them. I will not even buy their scanner or filament just because of their poor customer service..
Good on you though for getting through.
You mention a few times that the printhead features a direct drive extruder, however this is not correct. You can obviously see that it is a bowden setup. Direct drive would fill the filament in from the top directly into the extruder, without the white (called a bowdentube) tube.
It is direct drive. Pretty much every 3D printer has a teflon tube going from the filament spool to the print head. But the gears that feed the filament into the hotend are built into the printhead at the end of the tube, not before it. Look up the differences between direct drive and bowden extrusion.
direct drive means the extruder is on the toolhead, rather than mounted elsewhere. You can run this machine without the bowden tube.
I just bought 2 of these machines, BECAUSE of the size of 300x300x330 as well as
DIRECT DRIVE!
You do wrong assume that the long PTFE tube means that this is a bowden type.
To be honest, when I first looked at this printer, I thought the same thing.
I mean, I've never seen such a long PTFE tube for a direct drive machine.
It turns out that the long tube is for the really bad position where they hold the spool of filament and the location of the runout sensor. It IS BAD!
So I got mine and after the first print, the extruder clogged.
Long story short, that turned out to be my own fault for not using the printer's feature to remove filament.
But that was a good thing, because in order to clear the blockage, I had to take apart the entire extruder head.
And what I saw inside was beautiful!
There are several gears driven by a MOTOR! Yup, DIRECT DRIVE!
I cleared the clog and it's been printing the most gorgeous prints I've ever seen!
As for the spool position, I printed out the top mount holder and made a wire extension to relocate the runout sensor to the top.
Now, the filament sits right on top and goes right into the direct drive extruder!
No PTFE tube required!
This is a really great printer! That's why I bought 2!
wrong. the ender 3 max is the biggest
5 max?
Cr6 max is even bigger, get wrecked noob
@@michaelramirez4864 wdym there is no such thing as an ender 5 max
300*300*330mm ender 3 plus, prints 30mm higher
vs
300*300*300 K1 max, prints 30mm lower
Ender 5 Plus is even bigger 350 x 350 x 400 mm 😅