I don’t think this is a bad video at all. In fact it’s the first video that I’ve seen that mentions the discrepancy between skinny pencil lines and right triangles on paper and dimensional lumber in real life! This was the issue I had in my head when figuring this out. I’m building an 8x14’ shed. So I know the run/span (4’). I also know the pitch - I’m using an 8/12 pitch. I’m trying to figure the height at which I need to stick frame my ridge beam. It seems like I should start with laying out my bird’s mouth and figure out my height above plate? I can then factor that into my total rise/height of the ridge beam?
Great explanation. All the inches, fractions keep throwing me. It’s just random numbers to me, as a non US person. Just wondering why you would calculate ridge height according to rafter rise? Don’t you determine the height of the ridge/ building first, then calculate rafter rise accordingly? I guess it’s because you want to keep to a certain rise/run ratio?
You calculate the rafter length based on the pitch of the roof and the width of the building. In order to set the rafter, you need to know where to put the ridge.
Shot in the dark by asking a question on RUclips but maybe some one can help on how to do this with a building that is not square as the front of the home is 25 but the rear is 24’9” I understand each rafter would most likely have to be cut individually but what about the ridge how do I place this and have it come out looking good and not off by the time I get to the end of the home
Bummer. I would center the ridge, adjust the rafter lengths, and never use that framer again. Calculate the rafter length for 25' width, the length for 24'-9", and the number in the middle (24'-10 1/2"), and figure out how much each rafter needs to shrink from there.
This is good information except for one thing. The blocking between the rafters should be be there. It will block air flow from the eave to the ridge vent. If you feel must have blocking for spacing, use 2x4's (or shorter than the plumb height of the rafter). The space left over will allow air flow. Edit: Alternate method - If you plan to use spray foam insulation, you could use the full height blocking but, personally, I suggest you still allow for air flow. I have seen drywall fall off the ceiling because of now airflow and condensation collected. It was a vaulted ceiling using the rafters as the ceiling joists.
Initially I got tripped up from the height line drawn at 0:49 because that height does not land at the very top but somewhere near the middle of the ridge.
@ProTradeCraft hmmm tell me again why you used 8 inches of cut for your layout? Is that sone random number everyone should use ? Why also did you put rafters 2 inches from one another on one end and why did you add plywood on the end of the ridge beam? Don't know how to use a tape measure and cut once ?
i will look no further, this series is at a level i cant express, THANK YOU
Glad it helps. Just posted the first of a hip roof series.
I don’t think this is a bad video at all. In fact it’s the first video that I’ve seen that mentions the discrepancy between skinny pencil lines and right triangles on paper and dimensional lumber in real life! This was the issue I had in my head when figuring this out.
I’m building an 8x14’ shed. So I know the run/span (4’). I also know the pitch - I’m using an 8/12 pitch. I’m trying to figure the height at which I need to stick frame my ridge beam. It seems like I should start with laying out my bird’s mouth and figure out my height above plate? I can then factor that into my total rise/height of the ridge beam?
Great explanation. All the inches, fractions keep throwing me. It’s just random numbers to me, as a non US person.
Just wondering why you would calculate ridge height according to rafter rise? Don’t you determine the height of the ridge/ building first, then calculate rafter rise accordingly? I guess it’s because you want to keep to a certain rise/run ratio?
You calculate the rafter length based on the pitch of the roof and the width of the building. In order to set the rafter, you need to know where to put the ridge.
I like the way the rafters suddenly found there way up without measuring them
U didn't watch the previous video then
in animation land anything is possible.
Shot in the dark by asking a question on RUclips but maybe some one can help on how to do this with a building that is not square as the front of the home is 25 but the rear is 24’9” I understand each rafter would most likely have to be cut individually but what about the ridge how do I place this and have it come out looking good and not off by the time I get to the end of the home
Bummer.
I would center the ridge, adjust the rafter lengths, and never use that framer again.
Calculate the rafter length for 25' width, the length for 24'-9", and the number in the middle (24'-10 1/2"), and figure out how much each rafter needs to shrink from there.
Thanks. all the measurements worked for me.
Whew, because I just made them up!
(kidding, of course).
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it -- you should consider subscribing to the channel!
This is interesting and informative. Unfortunately it just impressed on me how totally unprepared I am to frame a roof.
Better to figure that out sooner than later.. Pencils are cheap. Lumber is expensive.
@@ProTradeCraft Definitely.
This is good information except for one thing. The blocking between the rafters should be be there. It will block air flow from the eave to the ridge vent.
If you feel must have blocking for spacing, use 2x4's (or shorter than the plumb height of the rafter). The space left over will allow air flow.
Edit: Alternate method - If you plan to use spray foam insulation, you could use the full height blocking but, personally, I suggest you still allow for air flow.
I have seen drywall fall off the ceiling because of now airflow and condensation collected. It was a vaulted ceiling using the rafters as the ceiling joists.
Blocks appear at 4:15
Thank you very much
You are welcome
GREAT VIDEO
Thank you.
The best
No, you are!
Initially I got tripped up from the height line drawn at 0:49 because that height does not land at the very top but somewhere near the middle of the ridge.
That's the point. Thick lumber is different from Pythagorean triangles, so you have to adjust a few things.
This was almost good , but beginners are watching to learn and everything out of you mouth needs to be explained in detail.
I guess if you explained in detail what I didn't explain in detail, I wouldn't be scratching my head right now.
@@ProTradeCraft Hilarious.
@ProTradeCraft hmmm tell me again why you used 8 inches of cut for your layout? Is that sone random number everyone should use ? Why also did you put rafters 2 inches from one another on one end and why did you add plywood on the end of the ridge beam? Don't know how to use a tape measure and cut once ?
This is by far the worst demonstration I've seen
What didn't you like about it?
Ouch. Care to expand on that thought, Oliver?