IS THIS THE BEST UPGRADE FOR YOUR BIKE?
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- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2023
- where to buy this chain ring:
alugear.com/chainrings-1x/290...
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Florida man tells cyclists to get better at climbing, installs 1x on a Shimano drivetrain because SRAM can't make a good front derailleur.
Hahahhaha
In Seattle a 1x would be a very bad idea.
@@GCPerformance18 Can we get an update on the alugear 1by chainring. I'm serously thinking about doing this. I see that absolute black has them too.
I honestly believe if you live in Florida, this is a legitimate and functional idea. It looks way cleaner and less stuff on the bike to go wrong (hence why I'm anti electric Groupset and electric everything 😂)
But where I live, I may not have mountains but the elevation is ALWAYS changing and pretty much hills are everywhere and my 2x gets used EVERY ride for sure.
It sucks literally everywhere except a race track ring.
I came here to say the exact same thing.
If you live somewhere that is relatively flat, there is literally no reason to run 2x; get rid of the FD, lose weight, make the bike more aero.
Yup! Totally agree with you guys. Where I live, in Maryland, I NEED my 2X. No way could I do a single. No way.
the problem is that in a mechanical group, if you don't have tools, the chain drops to the heaviest gear, and in an electric group, when the battery runs out, it stays in the same gear.
@@MBdrummer3288 Yeah man! I LOVE the look and having less to worry about but I actually need it. There's been some rides where I was like "why did I ride this far" and on my way home, if it wasn't for that second ring, I would have had to call an uBer, take the bus or hop on the train 😂
What you do you think of the this being a thing in the future 1x13 drivetrain, and getting rid of front derailer all together?
where to buy this chain ring:
alugear.com/chainrings-1x/290-15690-round-1-speed-for-12sp-110-bcd-4b-shimano-asymmetric-roadgravel.html#/40-size-52t/15-color-green
CVT!
Hopefully we would never see the day where manufacturers only releasing 1x compatible only drivetrains just like disc brake nowadays. It doesn't mean that if Wout Van Aert use 1x that suddenly that's what you gonna use with your bike. I'm all about proper gearing even though let's say you're just gonna ride flats today having extra gearing makes more sense than faffing around changing your 1x crank set when you wanna ride on the hills.
why have 12 speed? Use a 10 speed 1x. less cross friction. 9spd, even. better for Florida.
I tested a 1x setup by riding in my 50t chainring all the time and I could climb all the major hills in Montreal with an 11-30 cassette. I will actually go full 1x with a 11-32 cassette next season.
exactly, and no even more with sram having 10-36 or shimano having 11-34
@@GCPerformance18Soon Shimano will release their 11-36 as well
Agreed. I’m running a mullet 1x10-52 and it works for my BC hills.
I am running 1x for many years now on all of my bikes (MTB, road & gravel) and I love it. Not going back.
I don't mind 1x, I have it on my gravel/allround flatbar bike that rarely sees proper hills, but I never understood argument of better chainline. I guess if you compare it to cross-chaining on 2x, but if you shift in the front when needed for sure chainline is better than in 1x extreme gears.
I think the idea is that you spend most of your time in about 3 gears next to each other and you can optimise the 1x to have perfect chainline for those gears. When you have 2by you have perfect chainline in really fast and really slow gears. I don't know if it works out that way in practice tho.
Would you be able to use an 10 or 11 speed 1x chainring with the 12 speed chain? Since the internal width of the 12speed chain is the same as 8,9,10,11
Not a chance. I'm doing Col de Joux Plane, Col de Loze, and la Planche des Belles Filles in the next few weeks - among others. I will be glad to have my 34/34.
Pogačar enters chat: climbing in big chainring
@@GCPerformance18 but I’m a mere mortal!
@@GCPerformance18like saying everyone should be driving an F1 car because it's faster
@@GCPerformance18no, he doesn't, because Tour de France winners have nothing in common with 99% of cyclists.
34/34 is 1:1, which you can still have on a 1x without sacrificing anything. A 38x11-42 is killer
Yeah, I like it. And that chainring is cool. And when you're using the small range road cassette, it saves even more weight than a big 11-44
You can save a whole lot more weight by going 1x in the rear (single speed) perfect for flat lands and big guys like you. I use SS for my Z2 flat rides.
When you are not climbing, saving 1kg on the bike really doesn't matter in terms of speed.
Yes, in fact, once you get the speed up, a heavier bike is better to keep the momentum because of inertia.
Yes, in fact, once you get the speed up, a heavier bike is better to keep the momentum because of inertia.
@blueshun That's exactly why my 12.8kg fat tire road bike is such a steamroller on flats! People underestimate the rig until they see what I can do in a makeshift TT position (forearms resting on flats, head tucked). It just plows!
What about the added weight of the significantly larger cassette. Probably offsets any weight savings from the front.
a shop that tells me to get better at cycling when i say I think something might not be right for me, is a shop i wont spend money in. And yeah, Florida might be one big pancake, the rest of the world has hills. Also, the best advice i've ever got for tracking down the source of creaks is to get yourself a stethoscope
I am using 50-34 with 12-25 or 11-23 cassette on the flat. I wanted 1X, but my bike was 6.8kg with double. I think the 11-speed 12-25 with a good sized 1x chainring is the best for flat roads.
1x is not for everyone and every situation. For certain situations, 1x is definitely the way to go. For most of the riders/situation, 2x is the way to go. I have 1x as well as 2x bike and use 1x mainly for my gravel bike.
I could seem them easily push this in the future making a 13 speed group road oriented and having a 1x chainring, having a 10-50 in the rear or something like that and a 48 in the front
My thought is 1x even in the hills, but like 13-36 on the rear and like 48 on the front. Very rarely am I 10, 11 or 12 and if so I’m downhill and a lot of time I’m coasting. How often am I drilling it going downhill when I don’t race my bike?
I have always enjoyed your videos. And when I come to visit my son in Ft Lauderdale, I would like to stop in your shop. But this is a crazy setup for me. I live close to boulder of, South Carolina, and North Carolina. Often to bike the Blue Ridge Parkway. Where I live in the Upstate of South Carolina, my rides are often 50 miles with 3000 feet of Climbing. I would have no problem with a 1x; I never use my small chain ring. A 53 -34 is no problem, but once I get into the 3 to 8-mile at 13 to 15 percent climbs of the mountain in North Carolina, I love the 36 - 34. Not unusual to climb 8000 feet in 70 miles. 1x setup is for the birds.
Glad I’m not the only one thinking of these things over! Good video and insight
I have the 1x prev gen allez sprint and building a new gen with a 1x as well. I really like the fact that I don't have to shift from small to big ring at the summit of those rolling hills in Tenn. I did struggle a bit climbing long steady 12%+ grade when I took that thing to Taiwan. I have looked at the Jumbo Vismo's setup as well.. most of them ran a 48 to 54t with 34 or 36 rear on their S5. Not sure about their R5 climbing version
I live in Belgium. My neighbourhood is the terrain for "Ronde Van Vlaanderen. The Hills here have elevations of 14-20 degrees. Even a competitive cyclist can't do them all with 1 front chainring. This is like trying to reinvent hot water.
Wva used a 1x in gent wevelgem. Climbing up the kemmelberg on a 1x. I tried it recently and im not a super great cyclist. I even managed to get up it at 23% in the big ring 52t with a 11-28
@@SyLens1 he's using the classified rear hub. so he basically has the same gear ratios as a 2x
@@SyLens1link the Strava ride where you went up 23% gradient in a 52/28 gear.
Is there any limit to how small gear you can go? For example if you go 48t and a 10-44. Anyone tried? ;)
1-"Just get better at cycling" I live in a hilly place. Not too much, but we frequently ride at our smaller chainring in a group.
Let's make the calculation and find out how good I have to be.
4% gradient and want to go without grinding. If I run with 50x14 at 90 RPM, I ride at 26kph. (75kg rider) I have to run at almost 380 watts.!!!
You can always run with your smaller chainring. In this case, you have to cross your chain.
If you live in a flat area and even a beginner can average 30 km/h, then use the 1x system. But if you live in a place with some hills and if you have to climb more than 3% or 4% in your daily rides 1x system does not make sense. (Talking for mortals among us)
I'd like to see how you get uphill comfortably with your 1x setup. Then we can talk about "being a better cyclist"
2- You only get a better chainline for 1 gear... In 2x Setup you get 2 straight chain lines.
Just to add to your second point, the outer cogs actually get worse with 1x. Most people would never cross chain that far up/down the block on a 2x, but you have to with 1x
so the 1x set sits in between the big and small chainring, thats where it lies, so when people are in big and big already, how it would it be worse then? people do cross chain people do run those big gears in the big chainring, but if the 1x setup is closer to the frame, in what world is it worse?
@@GCPerformance18 If you get a straight line at 6. gear on your 1x System, you get at both 4. and 9. strait lines on 2x System. You have to cross your chain more with your 1x System if you want to use your biggest and smallest rings. @facingup1624 is right.
No one who understands the gearing system will go 52 front and 30 rear in the 2x system anyway. They will switch to 36 front and 24 rear...
What is the weight difference for the change to the larger cassette?
My last ride was 87.5 km and 2205 m of elevation. All within a 12 km radius from home. Including some very steep sections peaking over 20%. So, yeah, for me a 1x is not the ideal solution. I'd need a MTB cassette and I don't think that would be the best for road riding. But, on flatter regions of the world... Yeah, why not?
14:29 I always wondered if that's normal. The chain is flapping enough to hit the chain stay. I had this happened to many of my 1x drivetrain bikes. I used frame protector to temporarily solve the issue. I guess it's a common 1by problem.
For me wide range gear on a road bike is a huge no, recently swapped to a 42T inner (52T outer) with close ratio 11speed : 11-25 cassette, this is the best upgrade i have made for efficiency, yes, it is not as light but far more useable than a 1x, perfect cadence at all speeds. I use 1x on a Cannodale Slate gravel bike and it feels like I'm constantly in the wrong gear.
Perfect cadence on hills below 7% maybe!
I wonder if i can do this to my2x mechanical grx 810 on my cervelo since i have never used the small chainring?can i fit a 50t chainring with the grx 2x derailer its running a 48/31 now
Bro I subbed cuz of the video editor jokes bahaha 😂😂
I'm from where Pogacar and Roglic are and here we need setup like Roglic had on the last stage of Giro. But with that setup its hard to ride in a group. 13s Ekar would be much better but still gears are to far apart for climbing and riding in group. We have too many hills 😅
I've done a bunch of rides with my SRAM 48/35x10-36 setup where I haven't left the big ring. And I don't live in Florida (usually I get more than 100m of elevation per 10km around here. Sorry, too lazy to convert to freedom units).
Granted, those were fast group rides and I wouldnt want to be stuck with a 48x36 easiest gear when I want to do a Z2 ride. But for a N+1 scenario, I probably would build a 1x road bike like this just because it looks good and is a nice flex.
With sram the best part is you can build a 1x roadbike for 30€ in 10 min. Just screw off the front mech and put on a 1x chainring.
What is the offset on the Alugear chainring? Did you need to add spacers to the chainring bolts or bottom bracket to get the right chain line?
I’m getting ready to convert to 1x with a SRAM dzero 110 bcd spider and a Garbaruk 1x aero chainring (48 tooth with 0mm offset). Comparing a SRAM 1x direct mount chainring 40 tooth to Garbaruk, the SRAM is offset 3mm closer to the frame. Worried I may have some chainline battles ahead. Therefore, I’m curious if the Alugear has offset.
I do not know off the top of my head but mine is shimano so I do not need spacers for mine but for sram dub I would run the same bb spacer on the crank that comes with the same chainring
Love my 1x drivetrain!! I have plenty gears for going uphill, i have a 40t chainring with a 11-52 cassete which is more then enough. If anything ill go with a bigger chainring if i need more speed.
But any road -2% or less will make you coast at 40kmh. Gravel setup? Or bike packing?
Great Video ! I use a 46 Wolf Tooth chainring GRX 1X & 9-46 helix rear cassette on my Sirrus X 5.0 , no dropped chains
not sure how 1x is more efficient in terms of chain line.
What chain and lube are are you using?
I have the ALUGEAR 52t and a 11/30 cassette, but are getting a lot of noise from the chainring. Only 3 position on the cassette is okay, the rest are so loud (noise) 🙄
I am running sram eagle chain and silca super secret lube
Hi Grant, I have a question for you regarding the frequency of chain drop issues with Shimano compared to Sram and Campagnolo. I'm curious if Sram's marketing tactics have influenced your perception, as my understanding is that Sram front derailleurs are often associated with chain drop problems. It seems like rather than addressing the issue directly, they market their 1x setups as an innovative solution. Additionally, I wonder if many professional cyclists are compelled to use 1x setups due to sponsorship obligations. There are several videos highlighting instances where pros on sponsored teams don't use Muc-Off products due to issues.
I don't think Sram has that much sway over the strongest team of the tdf. I honestly think it was the better setup for them. Less weight and more aero. It's not like they need extra range.
I just got this for my Emonda I absolutely love it so far thanks for sharing this great product
very nice!!! I think it is one of the best 1xx chainring out there
What crank are u running on there? GC used FC-R7100 but alugear site says its compatible with 12sp Dura Ace and Ultegra.. it doesnt mention 12sp 105
@@thedownunderverse I’m using mine on 12 speed 105 di2
@@catchthedream1142 amazing! thanks for responding… was it a good solid fit without being too tight and scratching up the crank?
@@thedownunderverse it was a perfect fit as long as you are mindful when sliding it over the crank it won’t get scratched if you want to be extra careful I recommend I few pieces of painters tape on the crank before installing the chainring then just peel it of when it’s installed
200feet on a 30 mile ride, I would go 1x but I live in the hills and most tours start with 600 feet after 8 miles :D
Honestly im thinking of ditching the fd too… 1x also looks so much better
In FL 1x makes the best sense. It’s a clean look on that bike!
Question would it be better to space the big ring more “in board” to get a better chain line?
They have a built in 3mm offset (inboard)
In a one-by the chain is under extreme stress at the top most and bottom most sprocket gears. The front derailleur helps with that. The entire drivetrain suffers worse than a 2-by.
As with most things in cycling, the manufacturers will not give the consumer a choice in the matter.
6:35 Lmao best editing of 2023
lmaooo I have to give hima raise
Can you do a video on Rotor Aldu Carbon aero crankset ? Significantly lighter that dura-ace, with very tight manufacturing tolerances
II have an 11 Speed Ultegra set up. Are there any issues with just removing my front deraileur and leave the Crankset alone for now. I am not worried about weight. I just hate any chain rub noise. I never use the small chainring. Thanks in advance... Great Channel
I like the ultra wide 2x from Wickwërks. Said it also work with SRAM chains so going to test it at my new TT build. 53/34 with 10-28, if it works. But otherwise I run 11s on my roadbike.
It's so with that range. Wherever you go you have the gearing you need.
yea it is nice
If i ever go back to Shimano it will definitely be 1x. I love the simplicity of scram, but hate the ergonomics of their shifters
Plus dot fluid sucks
I just installed the chainring for 12 speed but need to sent it back cause the chain cannot align straight when the gear in the small or the biggest position.
really? that is weird, I have not had this issues, and i ran it on 2 different bikes. what group you run? and also is the bb installed correct for spacing?
Has anyone used the alugear in a 2x configuration? Trying to figure out if they shift well.
I have not
Ive seen that brand of chainring online and the little ends to finish off the spider arms. Seems to be a popular thing now having a single front ring. I've purchased the Specialites TA with their 'spider arm' ends to finish it off, but I've still kept the 50t/34t, for my new 2023 Bianchi Oltre Comp. Love that frame and bike, it looks very cool indeed Sir
I'm in decent shape and 1x on a road bike is not enough gear for me here. I run a 38 11-51 on my gravel bike because we have a bunch of 20% climbs and its ok for gravel but im spun out in groups and descents on a road bike. Id like it though because i hate front derailleurs.
If you’re running a 2x Ultegra 12 speed groupset on the Elves, can you run a 54/40 chainring setup with that bike? And what’s the largest that you could run on that same frame if you’re running a 1x?
I don’t see why a 12 speed 54/40 crankset from Dura Ace can’t work with 12 speed Ultegra. They’re basically the same 12 speed group.
Look for large 1x TT chainrings. FSA has full carbon 64T chainring used in last years 2022 Tour de France time trials.
yes u can run a 54/41 that is a new standard and it replaced the 53/39 so there is no issue, you can run a 54 1x on there they make the bigger chainring options with a little more offset
How do your easiest gears work? I have this same setup with Alugear 54T and 105 di2 RD + 11-34 cassette. Top 3 gears grind and are incredibly loud. Wondering if it will get better as the ring wears a bit
I have no issues, depends sometimes on chain compatibility, as you can see i am running a mountain chain on there for looks, but sometimes certain chains until they wear down they are noisy at first
ccc, cross chain city, the aerodynamic gains doesn't apply on the road but only on track and there's other better things to change for a lighter bike.
How do you feel about chainlink when in the largest cog? I have the same chainring on BB30 (130 bcd) in a 46 11/34. Very noisy in the 34. I'm using KMC chain ? Have had wolf tooth in the past, and they seemed to a more quiet.
Mije is noisy too its crap
I actually live by Hawaii Street which is 2nd to NZ / LA's steepest hills. I'd consider this because bunny hoping pot holes is fun
works really well
Do someome know a good chainring about 48 or 50 teeth for sram rival
I have rival 2x powermeter but i want to keep my power meter
I also forgot to say. On the way down those climbs, I need the 53 -11 in order to keep in contact. We have no flat rides.
Alugear products bare a striking resemblance and the same chain compatibility as Garbaruk chainrings (which are excellent). Another interesting observation - both are made in Poland
Thanks for the info!
@@GCPerformance18 What’s the chainline like on this setup? Does the Alugear chainring on the 105 crank line up dead straight with the middle cog on the cassette? It’s a super important aspect of 1x setups….
This is a huge downgrade. Good if you like to run on a flat track. Terrible if you go up hills in the city
And the chain line is not straighter. It is straighter for beginners who forget to shift their front.
Triple is the one that actually gives straighter lines assuming the rider is experienced at not cross chaining.
What up GC....Do you have to resize or get a new chain when you go 1x?
no you dont need to, if its the same size chainring
Can you show us what the alugear chainring and the Magene power meter cranks look like together?
yes I have them on video with the prestacycle cassette
I live in actual mountains. My weekend ride often includes Mt Mitchell. I’m not going to 1x on my road bike any time soon.
But when I lived in the flat? It would be very tempting now.
Been running 1x in Miami since 2016. No need for a 2x down here!
Exactly you understand me lol
You think it will fit iwth 4iiii double side powermeter in the cranks?
yes of course
What would I need to buy if I have the older sram red etap to go to a 1x11? Im good with all the gearing since I’m in Florida also and never go into the small ring.
Depends on what you ride but a 52 is nice.
I thought you get a worse chain line with 1x?
The chainline sits in the middle of the big and the small so there is not as much bend from top and bottom
It seems like my comments with links get deleted
Google 1x vs 2x velo news
They did an efficiency test and got interesting results.
@@GCPerformance18 I did some more research and what I found suggested that 1x is about 3 watts less efficient on avg, because you get more bend in the chain at the high and low ends of the cassette. With the 2x setup you can be in the optimal front ring to decrease bend.
@@patrickrenschler59723 watts is totally lost in the noise. Its nothing unless you’re WvA - are you WvA?
I'm running 50-34 on the front with 11-34 on the back. That 34-34 gets used up the 15% and greater climbs around here. I suppose a 50 front and 11-50 on the back would work, but would it really?
You can run sram xplr 10-44 with a 44 chainring and have pretty much the exact same ratios.
Gotta have a 2x in NYC. However our roads have a little of everything so a 1x would make me respect you even more in these roads
I live in Florida too but use my small ring for zone 2 rides
Then of course. If you have an agenda for training then keep what you need as needed
New video in 2 months: "why I switched back to 2x"
Make your choice. Tight ratios or range.
Nice GC!
Thanks so much
Alugear are made in Poland, the same as Garbaruk, or Absoluteblack ;)
Yep I just noticed this too! Garbaruk’s are excellent .. and alugear is veeeeery similar (right down to the font and etching on the ring) so I’m guessing these will be great. Prolly come out of the same factory
@@thedownunderverse They are not from one factory, everything is made at home, in different cities, but both are made in Poland ;).
“Just get better at cycling” Woot Van Ert” 😂😂😂
This is so dope dogggg
thanks big dog
Who'd that 200' of elation work out for you?
Does a 54 alugear chainring fits the new 105 crank?
yes it does
would have like to see the front mech hanger to be removed for aero and weight gains (but l run an alugear on my TT bike and 1x on many bikes like offroad and commuter. not on the training road/race bikes since it's medium hilly over here and need the range) so yeah ... would like shimano to come up up a proper 1x road groupset or at least a cool crank and not just the GRX
l do feel like the alugear chainring (54 for me) is not a stiff and l had to file down the brake pad bolt on my tt bike ...
how do i get in contact with you at your bike shop for any orders....thanks....scott
You can email me at gcperformanceyt@gmail.com or call the store bicycle generation Deerfield beach Florida
A one by is great for crits since no climbing also warp gainzzz
It doesn't give you a better chain line though, unless you're in the middle of the block. As for weight saving, well you're going to need a bigger cassette which will be much heavier unless you spend big money and DA only go upto a 34T cassette, and you're gonna be grinding up hills with a 50-52 chain ring and if you use a 46 or 48 chainring you'll be spinning out on decents. I guess it could be beneficial if you live somewhere flat.
I need a drive train for my touring bike for my transamerica ride...I will be loaded with 50lbs of gear on my steel frame bike. I'm not a strong cyclist so need to sit and spin when climbing.
I don't buy the single chainring crossing less. The outer chainring is closer to the 11/10 sprocket, and per Shimano specifications I never go past the 8th sprocket either (21 on a 11-30 cassette).
For super flat terrains is OK cause you'll rarely get to the extremes of the cassette.
they are more centered then the outer chainring
There’s an offset built in.
The rear derailleur needs a clutch, or any bump could drop the chain from the single ring
Not from my experience. I've used my current 1x setup for around 6 months and not a single chain drop. I live in the UK where the roads are known to be full of potholes too.
@@lemonshire1agree, a good quality RD and good quality ring are enough for all but the narliest off road
holy shit that 105 derailleur is so fast and smooth
yea the trickle down tech nology is super nice
1x is not effective if you live in a hilly place. I run a 48/31 with the 11-34 and anything about 4-5% grade and I need the 31 to climb. With that being said I would need like a 42 front chainring or smaller if I want to be able to still climb above 5% grade. Here comes the big issue with that, when I go downhill I’m already running out of gearing with the 48 up front so a 42 going downhill would be useless! 1x are for very fit cyclists or cyclist who don’t climb.
your Elves Bike looks amazing 🤩
Nice setup! Is that Alugear compatible with the Magene PES 505 Power Meter?
Yes I am currently riding it right now
@@GCPerformance18 Sweet! Thanks for the feedback!
Nice idea in theory but wouldn't majority of weight savings be countered by a larger cassette?
I mean I am already running the larger cassette
What is the brand name of the chainring? O
The climb to my house hits 18%. The shortcut has a long 24% section. I can do a 50 mile ride to a ski resort that tops out at 10 or 11%. No matter my local ride, the last 1/3 mile is always the toughest.
No 1x for me (except my XC bike with a 34 ring and 10-50 cassette.)
Also, doesn’t a 1x have MORE cross chaining? Big-big or small-small is slightly straighter than middle-big or middle-small.
And why worry about a few grams on the flats?
Yeah, for Florida, I can see going to 1x, but the day you take the bike on a trip for an epic ride, it could be painful. Maybe it depends on if you’re a grinder or a spinner.
Me? I’m a 65yo spinner. And I couldn’t compete with the pros when young. 2x for me on the road all day long.
1x chainrings (good ones anyway) have an inboard offset built into them to account for this.
But to account for what? The big cog, little cog, 3rd from the right?
The big ring will always nudge things towards the little sprocket and the little ring will always nudge it towards the big sprocket. Isn’t that what we want?
When people say that “a 1x gives an optimum chain alignment”, I think they’re just repeating a bad line. It’s optimized for what, one gear? It can’t possibly be better aligned for them all - especially at the extremes of the cassette.
Looking forward to your creaking investigation video.
They aren't running 1x by sheer choice. They are just afraid of dropping their chain with the lackluster SRAM front derailleurs. 🧂
Which I mentioned in the video as well
@@GCPerformance18 I saw. I wrote that before I got there though. Don't mind me, I just neg people for fun.
I don’t think I’d do it without a rear derailleur without a clutch. Also, please enjoy riding up 12% with 50t/33t small gear. I’m not Jonas Vingegaard lol.
you dont need a clutch just a nice chainring that has some nice grabbing teeth
1x in pro peloton = less screaming n swearing
1x in real life = more screaming n swearing (unless u live in flat lands)
hahahaha truth
Homie saying he only get 200’ of elevation in a ride and the talks about how he needs to shave wait 😂 this will have no effect based on weight reduction in this case. Now that new chain ring and lack of front derailleur may be more aero saving some watts there and that could provide real gains. But keep in mind chain line will be less optimal with a 1x vs 2x not better.
Bbut yeah 100% looks sexier. No denying that :)
man, I dont care about weight, I just do it for the fun of it, just want to get my bike down in weight like everyone, I know it dont matter but also it is fun bragging about an aero bike that is light
Hell yeah,! Im all for the modz. Thanks for the content as always
please remove the front derailleur hanger for those aero gainz
I am using 1X, but 40T chainring, it's way enough for me. Do you really need 52T chainring? 52T with 10T in 90 cadence will be 61kph. I don't know man, not many people can ride this fast
It's more efficient because (1) the chain is straighter and (2) you are using the larger cogs. A lot of people think it's for max speed and focus on that too much. I'm running 54/40 in FL. Much better than the 52/36 I had.
Downhill?
I could never find a good cadence with the limited range one bys provide. It's not worth losing that range and chain efficiency because you're to lazy to shift the front rings. Ofc on a singular type of terrain it works but I like to pedal up hills as well a down them
It wasn't too long ago that if you had 39/23 you had to make excuses for why you needed something so low. 52/34 is lower still.