love the vid - I was surprised at all the planer work on the rails rather than by hand but clearly you have more control with it than me! rails and shape came out looking great - with the spoon concave do you do the tape wider than you want the concave just so you don't rip into it with the planer and sanding or do you really go right up to the edge of it? I find that sanding right up to the tape makes things messy and sticky. Rails look more rounded at the tail than I usually do - is that typical for all your boards more mostly the nose-riders? Great looking shape
I tape with 2 inches from the edge of the rail. for the type of Rail I took 60/40 rail, that makes a little round on the tail and nose, if I take 50/50 rail, the tail and nose looks more flat and pinched.. Just follow the request from customer, but thank for your detail correct
🤙I am looking to shape a 9'8" noserider single fin in the same way as you have done your 9'2". how wide do the tucked under bands you plane in your clip need to be?
Great video and a great shape. I have a question. In a high perf longboard can you make it a hydro hull with 2 concaves running along the sides of the stringer and exiting out the tail? And also add a little v in the tail? With the v in the tail you take out some of the rocker and make it seem like there's actually more and makes it looser, if I'm correct.
Would you still build in that approx 48 inch by 20 inch oval concave if it was a performance (2+1) longboard with less nose riding capability. We have weaker wind driven 1-2 ft waves in South Carolina and I’m planning a pretty flat rocker with a single fin box and two futures side bite boxes. Very sweet shaping job! Subscribed.
Hey . Great video. question: How of you measure your nose concave (where to start, how far from rails and from the tip of the nose)? and how deep should you traditionally go when making the concave? Thanks!
@@foamhacker6396 This is high density EPS. Just shape it slowly with a light touch to avoid tears, after finish sanding from 160 grit to 220 and its almost as smooth as PU. Spackle is not a very good option, because even if you have a spackle/filler that is as white as the EPS, it still leaves a blushed finish that separates from the EPS. This 'looks' fine if you do a clear lamination, but if you were to do a tinted lamination; there will blushing/big spots where the spackle was applied. Spackle also creates a weaker bond which can result in delaminations. As someone who's been through it all as far as EPS and spackle regards, i make sure the finished shape is tight and smooth enough to not need spackle. Looks good and creates a superior bond.
![[Shaping + Glassing] Single Fin Surfboard](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/In_-TyVNw1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Impressive planer work!
Good job
Excelente
Good 😍
love the vid - I was surprised at all the planer work on the rails rather than by hand but clearly you have more control with it than me! rails and shape came out looking great - with the spoon concave do you do the tape wider than you want the concave just so you don't rip into it with the planer and sanding or do you really go right up to the edge of it? I find that sanding right up to the tape makes things messy and sticky. Rails look more rounded at the tail than I usually do - is that typical for all your boards more mostly the nose-riders? Great looking shape
I tape with 2 inches from the edge of the rail. for the type of Rail I took 60/40 rail, that makes a little round on the tail and nose, if I take 50/50 rail, the tail and nose looks more flat and pinched..
Just follow the request from customer, but thank for your detail correct
🤙I am looking to shape a 9'8" noserider single fin in the same way as you have done your 9'2". how wide do the tucked under bands you plane in your clip need to be?
Great video and a great shape. I have a question.
In a high perf longboard can you make it a hydro hull with 2 concaves running along the sides of the stringer and exiting out the tail? And also add a little v in the tail? With the v in the tail you take out some of the rocker and make it seem like there's actually more and makes it looser, if I'm correct.
Usually for high performance longboard is have double concave with V in the tail area, flat/single concave in the middle.. also have more rocker
Would you still build in that approx 48 inch by 20 inch oval concave if it was a performance (2+1) longboard with less nose riding capability. We have weaker wind driven 1-2 ft waves in South Carolina and I’m planning a pretty flat rocker with a single fin box and two futures side bite boxes. Very sweet shaping job! Subscribed.
Flat Rocker, normal concave on the nose (no SPOON) little "V" in the midle
@@handsurfboard perfect….thank u✌️
Hey . Great video. question: How of you measure your nose concave (where to start, how far from rails and from the tip of the nose)? and how deep should you traditionally go when making the concave? Thanks!
I start measure 30-48inchi from nose depend shape of board, 1.5-2 inchi from rail, 1/4 deep
@@handsurfboard thanks for information!
Eh Brah, what are the blank prices like over on your island? Where do you get them from?
Love what you have done on your 9'2" Noserider, did you belly the tail or put vee in it?
It's Belly
Except the concave under the nose, the rest is flat?
Belly for another
Hello, man. What's the density of Pu board you use？Thanks！
That's Epoxy Foam
@@handsurfboard bro epoxy is the resin you glass with, foam is eps!
Sorry, so it's Eps haha
@@handsurfboard do you have to spackle the board after its shaped to fill any small EPS holes?
@@foamhacker6396 This is high density EPS. Just shape it slowly with a light touch to avoid tears, after finish sanding from 160 grit to 220 and its almost as smooth as PU. Spackle is not a very good option, because even if you have a spackle/filler that is as white as the EPS, it still leaves a blushed finish that separates from the EPS. This 'looks' fine if you do a clear lamination, but if you were to do a tinted lamination; there will blushing/big spots where the spackle was applied. Spackle also creates a weaker bond which can result in delaminations. As someone who's been through it all as far as EPS and spackle regards, i make sure the finished shape is tight and smooth enough to not need spackle. Looks good and creates a superior bond.
What's the size of your nose concave?
4ft