I've been running the TSDZ2 on open source firmware for over a year now, just passed 2000 miles. Around 700 miles was towing 60kg in hilly terrain. Feel free to ask me anything specific from my experience. Great video btw. :)
Hi Luke, if you are looking for a "ghost pedaling" feature it should provide a "cruise mode". You can also change the mode via the display (no need to reload the configuration via java configurator). However, when I tested the "cruise mode", it behaved a bit strange. The bike accelerated to the set speed when pedaling, but then slowed down, then accelerated again... It just wasn't a smooth ride, but a constant acceleration and deceleration. Perhaps this could be tweaked by setting some parameter, but I haven't figured out which one yet (maybe tweak the percentages for motor acceleration and decelaration, so far I'm using the default setting of 35%).
Hello Luke it is great to use your software on the tsdz2 motor. In fact it easy to install it. It worked perfect. NO errors. And now it is very adaptive. But one thing. Changing the settings with a VLCD6 display is very hard. For me almost impossible. MAybe you can make a short video of it. Thanks and I hope you can give more support to change the settings with the display.
Hi Luke, I have the BBSHD and the BBSO2B, and with the eggridder, I can set up both motors from my phone even when I'm out riding my bike and through bluetooth I can change the amount of power I want from each pedal assist even switch between off road and road settings with a press of a button.
I have a 750w kit. The big problem with this engine is overheating which prevents the engine from reaching maximum performance. I made some changes following the instructions in some videos and installing aluminum heat sinks. The situation has improved but during the hot season I will never get 100% of the performance. I don't think that installing this firmware will have any advantages as the main problem with the tsdz2 is due to a mechanical design defect.
750w stock firmware will behave worse as OSF set for 500w. Also, Tongshen did you dirty, because in reality your 750w is exactly the same as my 48v 500w. Identical, to the last nut and bolt. Something to do with lawsuits as well ;) Also done the cooling mod, alu insert and top plate + thermal interface material where needed. It's not enough, not for 900w at least ( and it's not even high summer ). Seems to be fine with ~750w set as max battery draw and using mainly the second and third power levels. The mechanical issue is the spindel, but if you ride the bike as a 'normal' commuter and you're not overweight, you're fine. I actually ride mtb tracks and in my 4k km I haven't had an issue yet ( I did install the recommended extra bearings, same time I did the cooling mod ). I am a lightweight though, so my spindle thanks me for that I bet. The other design issue is the heat dissipation, but that's mainly because the motor was intended to be 500w not higher. The cooling kit does fix this for a large part, I just didn't want to buy the big external heatsinks because I felt it would give away the thing aint 'stock'. You do need those, the alu inserts only improve heat transfer from the motor to the casing/housing, but the housing itself just lacks any real heat exchange surfaces of it's own. Anyway, kind of wished I waited a month and gotten the tsdz8 instead. Same pricepoint, lots more power and fixes both design issues present in tsdz2.
Some further precisions about this video: - Thank you for the warnings about the temperature! It might be bacause of the 36V variant, but so far my 500W TSDZ2 does not heat more than my 500W BBS02B. Of course, if you play with the 48V variant, you use batteries with higher voltage or you push the settings even higher than this, yeah you should be careful about heating - All that you need to know about the values displayed at startup and at lights on is in the Parameter configurator guide PDF, at the paragraph called "Display advanced settings"; for your convenience, here is a list of my custom parameters: ----- BEGIN CUSTOM SETTINGS ----- My motor is a 36V one -> Default_Settings_36V.ini BASIC SETTINGS - Battery power max (W) -> 560 [rev.002] - Battery capacity (Wh) -> 560 [rev.001] - Battery voltage cut off (V) -> 31 [rev.001] - Wheel circumference (mm) -> 26-inch wheel = 2050 mm - Lights -> Unchecked (I don't have motor-connected lights) - Brake sensor -> Checked (I have at least one installed, Throttle ADC function will be available) - Optional ADC function -> Throttle (I have the throttle installed) - Street mode enabled on startup -> Unchecked (I want the full experience at startup) - Odometer compensation -> Checked [rev.001] - Set max speed from display -> Checked ASSISTANCE SETTINGS - Power assist mode -> 80, 140, 300, 450 [rev.001] - Torque assist mode -> 50, 100, 150, 200 [rev.001] - Hybrid assist mode -> Enabled on startup ADVANCED SETTINGS - Time to displayed data 1 -> 30 [rev.002] - Time to displayed data 2 -> 30 [rev.002] - Number of data displayed at lights on -> 2 [rev.002] - Time to menu items -> 30 [rev.002] - Data displayed on startup -> Volts [rev.002] - Soc % calculation -> Volts [rev.002] - Throttle assist value min, max -> 50, 255 ----- END CUSTOM SETTINGS ----- Happy tuning! 💪😎
If you're measuring temperature from the casing - this is inaccurate, as the casing makes no contact with the motor. In this scenario, it's likely your motor itself is already at damaging temperatures and you dont even know.
Why is your battery power max ( draw ) exactly the same as your capacity, I hope it's just some odd luck and it doesn't indicate you think they are related? I'm running currently 750w battery power 600wh capacity ( this is a battery parameter, it has nothing to do with the power draw ). With most of the cooling mods done ( insert + top cap + thermal material ) this seems just fine for now. My battery is warrantied for motors < 1kw continuous, so I did try 900w. Turbo level didn't work as it should, don't think it's heat probably my battery isn't able to deliver what the seller said it should. My battery seems to not like >750w continuous so that's what it's set for now. I only ride max 20km at a time, without elevation. I think another location would not allow my settings, as going uphill or having to do longer rides at continuously high power would likely cause thermal issues. I use +-40% of my 600wh in that 20km ride if I go for speed ( just below 40 avg ). With stock firmware, I was using half that but also riding much slower and having knee pains due to pressure needed on the pedals ( to go at 35km+ )... while my normal mtb I can also ride 40km ( for short distance ). I had to go for a conversion because of my knees, so at first I was pretty let down by the experience. OSF with hybrid mode finally allowed me to ride my normal cadence again, without it feeling like I was fighting the motor. I could enable field weakening to try and extent cadence support even further, but that hurts efficiency and torque so probably not worth it. Btw, your 36v for 560w needs 16A, without cooling mods the recommended is only 10A ( and 450w ). When set to 900, my 48v ( 54v fully charged state of charge ) is using the same amp draw ;)
Hi. I consider to use a Tongsheng TSDZ2b on a recumbent bicycle (HP Velotechnik Speedmachine). The frontwheel has a diameter of 20 inches (backwheel 26 inches). Is the velocity sensor also compatible with a 20 inch wheel? This would save me from considerable extra wiring on the bike.
When I start with OSF/embrusa using his settings file, there is not much difference in power between stock and OSF in power assist mode, but a little more in hybrid mode and EmtB mode. STill about 60% of the power of my 25A BBS02B, I see you have really increased the assist numbers on the Power assist. Those are usually 50/100/180/280 and yours are 80/140/300/450. Quite high.
Yes indeed. As I say in the video, the goal was to reproduce a closer experience to the BBS02B 500W motor. Of course, I'm not saying everyone should apply those numbers! With them also come more energy consumption and lower motor lifetime. Still, those settings sepresents the most I could squeeze without any thermal or mechanical issue, so I still feel confident with em
Hi Luke, did you try to revert to the original factory firmware after you flash custom firmware? What happens to the odometer after flash the custom firmware? Does the odometer reset or does the original value remain?
Hi, that's a great question! Yes I did revert to the original firmware and then also reinstalled the OSF: in both cases the odometer survived the flash. Which makes me question where exactly the odometer value is stored... maybe in the display itself? Maybe in an unaccessible area of the controller? Not sure...
value is stored in eeprom in your controller ( on a protected address which isn't overwritten when flashing firmware ). Be happy, or any second hand tsdz2 would come with a 'measly' 500km use by flashing new firmware ( or changing the display, if it were stored there ) ;)
it depends on the display: this OSF version is specific for the VLCD5 stock display. So if you'd like to install the modified 860c display afterword, yes there's a different firmware: you first need to restore the stock one and then install the specific OSF version for that display
Hello I’m from Montreal and I have 2 bikes with the tsdz2b is it worth doing the open firmware? I would keep the same displays… Thanks Any input would be appreciated… Don’t know where to start
Yes it is more then worth it. Or, it was for me. OSF totally changed the behavior, and where before I would get knee pain if riding fast just as on my normal bike, now I can ride a cadence which I like without feeling I'm fighting against the motor. Even without all the other mods and tweaks I done ( which aren't needed to benefit from OSF, just when using OSF to go faster ), OSF makes riding enjoyable. The different support options are all quite personal though, I use hybrid mode but some like pure emtb. This imho is where you'll gain the most, the differences in how the motor responds to your input is what makes OSF really worth it. Being able to tweak power levels is just a bonus.
Ciao Fabio, vado un po' a logica perchè ora non ho il software davanti, ma se hai scelto il file _48V.ini come punto di partenza e non hai giocato col Battery voltage cut off, il resto dovrebbe essere uguale alla mia config 👍
Hi Luke. since I am ready to choose which Tengsheng variant of motor to buy could you pls help me in this choice? I saw that I have the chance to buy the 250W 36V, the 350 W 36V, the 500W 36V + the 48V that i dont mention. Consider that I dont care much about the legal problem because I rarely bike in normal roads and mostly I go on hiking paths and mountain roads. of course the 250W will give me less but probably will use more battery than the 500W. but the 250W can be enough? or i cannot compare to Bosh, Brose and other motors and maybe it's better to get the 500w? Grazie
Hey Giorgio! Those variants of the Tongsheng you mentioned are all 36V. Which means, they all deffer each other by software configuration. If you intend to install the OSF, it doesn't matter if it's the 250, 350 or 500W: it's simply the same motor! Just go for the cheapest one. If you want instead to keep the stock firmware, go for the 500W. It's simply the best you can get out of the 36V version. The same idea applies to the 48V version, but ONLY for Tongsheng mid-drive motors! For Bafang it's a different one. I hope this clarifies a bit
@@LukeLorusso sorry I made a question in this video dedicated to the osf but I meant a general choice. I am trying to understand the pros and cons of getting the 250w or the 500w . I exclude the bafang since I don't think it's a good idea for mountain tracks
@@giorgio.plazzotta with the stock fw, the 250W would feel really slow... when I got the 500W I though the wrong unit was shipped to me, while instead it was actually the 500 one: it just felt less "energetic" I'll say go for the 500W: if you prefer to stay in the 36V space, you won't be disappointed!
@@giorgio.plazzotta if we talk about the stock firmware, on the power level there's no difference between a 500W @ 36V vs 48V. But, on the 48V variant you can get more range, cause you can have more Wh on the same battery size. If you take two batteries at 15Ah, you got 540Wh at 36V, while 720Wh at 48V. Then, if you wish to install the OSF, that 48V version will simply become a 750W unlocked one...
It'll overheat and die on you sooner than you think. Its a great motor once you put some heatsinks on it, outside of this its barely adequate as obviously, a dead motor isn't much use. I'd go as far as to say it's almost fraudulent the state in wihch this motor is sold given the serious heat issues it has. Other niggling issues such as premature clutch failure, and otherwise poor quality components (for example, the pedal axle is known to crack and snap) really let this motor down. Extra modifications such as adding bearings and shims can help, but ultimately what it needs is better made components. For the average ebiker/non-tinkerer, this motor is absolutely not suitable. In spite of this, i love the OSF aspect of it and for that reason alone i'm very fond of my TSDZ2(B). Particularly in an economy/society whereby manufacturers are "software locking" down everything behind paywalls and extortionate fees.
How many issues have you personally had? I'm lucky so far, according to some on the internet. 4000km without any issues. Sure, I did add the additional bearings when I did the cooling modifications. But stock firmware should be fine without the cooling mod, and the spindle issue is very much dependent on the rider and riding being done. It's a weak design, but I'm a lightweight and I can go over jumps and drops without issues ( I actually do take my bike on the single track here ). I seen many pictures of people with broken spindles, most of them are twice my size. Besides, I totally agree with you that tsdz2(b) right now is now what I would recommend to people. Tsdz8 is much better :) I almost feel sad for not having waited till it came in stock when I was looking to buy.
I've been running the TSDZ2 on open source firmware for over a year now, just passed 2000 miles. Around 700 miles was towing 60kg in hilly terrain. Feel free to ask me anything specific from my experience. Great video btw. :)
Hi Luke, if you are looking for a "ghost pedaling" feature it should provide a "cruise mode". You can also change the mode via the display (no need to reload the configuration via java configurator). However, when I tested the "cruise mode", it behaved a bit strange. The bike accelerated to the set speed when pedaling, but then slowed down, then accelerated again... It just wasn't a smooth ride, but a constant acceleration and deceleration. Perhaps this could be tweaked by setting some parameter, but I haven't figured out which one yet (maybe tweak the percentages for motor acceleration and decelaration, so far I'm using the default setting of 35%).
thanks man! I'll give it a try
Hello Luke it is great to use your software on the tsdz2 motor. In fact it easy to install it. It worked perfect. NO errors. And now it is very adaptive. But one thing. Changing the settings with a VLCD6 display is very hard. For me almost impossible. MAybe you can make a short video of it. Thanks and I hope you can give more support to change the settings with the display.
How much did the kit cost? Motor + battery?
Hi Luke, I have the BBSHD and the BBSO2B, and with the eggridder, I can set up both motors from my phone even when I'm out riding my bike and through bluetooth I can change the amount of power I want from each pedal assist even switch between off road and road settings with a press of a button.
I have a 750w kit. The big problem with this engine is overheating which prevents the engine from reaching maximum performance. I made some changes following the instructions in some videos and installing aluminum heat sinks. The situation has improved but during the hot season I will never get 100% of the performance. I don't think that installing this firmware will have any advantages as the main problem with the tsdz2 is due to a mechanical design defect.
750w stock firmware will behave worse as OSF set for 500w. Also, Tongshen did you dirty, because in reality your 750w is exactly the same as my 48v 500w. Identical, to the last nut and bolt. Something to do with lawsuits as well ;)
Also done the cooling mod, alu insert and top plate + thermal interface material where needed. It's not enough, not for 900w at least ( and it's not even high summer ). Seems to be fine with ~750w set as max battery draw and using mainly the second and third power levels.
The mechanical issue is the spindel, but if you ride the bike as a 'normal' commuter and you're not overweight, you're fine. I actually ride mtb tracks and in my 4k km I haven't had an issue yet ( I did install the recommended extra bearings, same time I did the cooling mod ). I am a lightweight though, so my spindle thanks me for that I bet.
The other design issue is the heat dissipation, but that's mainly because the motor was intended to be 500w not higher. The cooling kit does fix this for a large part, I just didn't want to buy the big external heatsinks because I felt it would give away the thing aint 'stock'. You do need those, the alu inserts only improve heat transfer from the motor to the casing/housing, but the housing itself just lacks any real heat exchange surfaces of it's own.
Anyway, kind of wished I waited a month and gotten the tsdz8 instead. Same pricepoint, lots more power and fixes both design issues present in tsdz2.
Some further precisions about this video:
- Thank you for the warnings about the temperature! It might be bacause of the 36V variant, but so far my 500W TSDZ2 does not heat more than my 500W BBS02B. Of course, if you play with the 48V variant, you use batteries with higher voltage or you push the settings even higher than this, yeah you should be careful about heating
- All that you need to know about the values displayed at startup and at lights on is in the Parameter configurator guide PDF, at the paragraph called "Display advanced settings"; for your convenience, here is a list of my custom parameters:
----- BEGIN CUSTOM SETTINGS -----
My motor is a 36V one -> Default_Settings_36V.ini
BASIC SETTINGS
- Battery power max (W) -> 560 [rev.002]
- Battery capacity (Wh) -> 560 [rev.001]
- Battery voltage cut off (V) -> 31 [rev.001]
- Wheel circumference (mm) -> 26-inch wheel = 2050 mm
- Lights -> Unchecked (I don't have motor-connected lights)
- Brake sensor -> Checked (I have at least one installed, Throttle ADC function will be available)
- Optional ADC function -> Throttle (I have the throttle installed)
- Street mode enabled on startup -> Unchecked (I want the full experience at startup)
- Odometer compensation -> Checked [rev.001]
- Set max speed from display -> Checked
ASSISTANCE SETTINGS
- Power assist mode -> 80, 140, 300, 450 [rev.001]
- Torque assist mode -> 50, 100, 150, 200 [rev.001]
- Hybrid assist mode -> Enabled on startup
ADVANCED SETTINGS
- Time to displayed data 1 -> 30 [rev.002]
- Time to displayed data 2 -> 30 [rev.002]
- Number of data displayed at lights on -> 2 [rev.002]
- Time to menu items -> 30 [rev.002]
- Data displayed on startup -> Volts [rev.002]
- Soc % calculation -> Volts [rev.002]
- Throttle assist value min, max -> 50, 255
----- END CUSTOM SETTINGS -----
Happy tuning! 💪😎
If you're measuring temperature from the casing - this is inaccurate, as the casing makes no contact with the motor.
In this scenario, it's likely your motor itself is already at damaging temperatures and you dont even know.
Why is your battery power max ( draw ) exactly the same as your capacity, I hope it's just some odd luck and it doesn't indicate you think they are related?
I'm running currently 750w battery power 600wh capacity ( this is a battery parameter, it has nothing to do with the power draw ). With most of the cooling mods done ( insert + top cap + thermal material ) this seems just fine for now.
My battery is warrantied for motors < 1kw continuous, so I did try 900w. Turbo level didn't work as it should, don't think it's heat probably my battery isn't able to deliver what the seller said it should. My battery seems to not like >750w continuous so that's what it's set for now.
I only ride max 20km at a time, without elevation. I think another location would not allow my settings, as going uphill or having to do longer rides at continuously high power would likely cause thermal issues.
I use +-40% of my 600wh in that 20km ride if I go for speed ( just below 40 avg ). With stock firmware, I was using half that but also riding much slower and having knee pains due to pressure needed on the pedals ( to go at 35km+ )... while my normal mtb I can also ride 40km ( for short distance ). I had to go for a conversion because of my knees, so at first I was pretty let down by the experience. OSF with hybrid mode finally allowed me to ride my normal cadence again, without it feeling like I was fighting the motor. I could enable field weakening to try and extent cadence support even further, but that hurts efficiency and torque so probably not worth it.
Btw, your 36v for 560w needs 16A, without cooling mods the recommended is only 10A ( and 450w ). When set to 900, my 48v ( 54v fully charged state of charge ) is using the same amp draw ;)
Hi. I consider to use a Tongsheng TSDZ2b on a recumbent bicycle (HP Velotechnik Speedmachine). The frontwheel has a diameter of 20 inches (backwheel 26 inches). Is the velocity sensor also compatible with a 20 inch wheel? This would save me from considerable extra wiring on the bike.
Is it possible to somehow make it work with EKD01 display?
Thanks for your help and video.
Can i get some results if will use Android speeed configuration tool ?
It's look easy.
When I start with OSF/embrusa using his settings file, there is not much difference in power between stock and OSF in power assist mode, but a little more in hybrid mode and EmtB mode. STill about 60% of the power of my 25A BBS02B, I see you have really increased the assist numbers on the Power assist. Those are usually 50/100/180/280 and yours are 80/140/300/450. Quite high.
Yes indeed. As I say in the video, the goal was to reproduce a closer experience to the BBS02B 500W motor.
Of course, I'm not saying everyone should apply those numbers! With them also come more energy consumption and lower motor lifetime. Still, those settings sepresents the most I could squeeze without any thermal or mechanical issue, so I still feel confident with em
Hi Luke, did you try to revert to the original factory firmware after you flash custom firmware? What happens to the odometer after flash the custom firmware? Does the odometer reset or does the original value remain?
Hi, that's a great question! Yes I did revert to the original firmware and then also reinstalled the OSF: in both cases the odometer survived the flash.
Which makes me question where exactly the odometer value is stored... maybe in the display itself? Maybe in an unaccessible area of the controller? Not sure...
value is stored in eeprom in your controller ( on a protected address which isn't overwritten when flashing firmware ).
Be happy, or any second hand tsdz2 would come with a 'measly' 500km use by flashing new firmware ( or changing the display, if it were stored there ) ;)
This may be a dumb question. When you upgrade the firmware, will you have to upgrade the firmware again if you change your display?
it depends on the display: this OSF version is specific for the VLCD5 stock display.
So if you'd like to install the modified 860c display afterword, yes there's a different firmware: you first need to restore the stock one and then install the specific OSF version for that display
Ciao Luke, volevo chiederti se questo firmware si può installare anche sul TSDZ2B. Grazie
Ciao metallicus, la risposta è 80% si...
leggi qui www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/13zkbv8/quick_question_does_the_opensource_firmware_work/jn347rm/
Hello I’m from Montreal and I have 2 bikes with the tsdz2b is it worth doing the open firmware? I would keep the same displays…
Thanks
Any input would be appreciated…
Don’t know where to start
Yes it is more then worth it. Or, it was for me. OSF totally changed the behavior, and where before I would get knee pain if riding fast just as on my normal bike, now I can ride a cadence which I like without feeling I'm fighting against the motor.
Even without all the other mods and tweaks I done ( which aren't needed to benefit from OSF, just when using OSF to go faster ), OSF makes riding enjoyable.
The different support options are all quite personal though, I use hybrid mode but some like pure emtb. This imho is where you'll gain the most, the differences in how the motor responds to your input is what makes OSF really worth it.
Being able to tweak power levels is just a bonus.
Ciao Luke, io ho la versione da 500W 48V, sai dirmi che impostazioni devo cambiare rispetto alle tue che usi un 36V? Grazie in anticipo
Ciao Fabio, vado un po' a logica perchè ora non ho il software davanti, ma se hai scelto il file _48V.ini come punto di partenza e non hai giocato col Battery voltage cut off, il resto dovrebbe essere uguale alla mia config 👍
@@LukeLorusso ok grazie mille, questo weekend proverò a smanettare
Hi Luke. since I am ready to choose which Tengsheng variant of motor to buy could you pls help me in this choice? I saw that I have the chance to buy the 250W 36V, the 350 W 36V, the 500W 36V + the 48V that i dont mention. Consider that I dont care much about the legal problem because I rarely bike in normal roads and mostly I go on hiking paths and mountain roads. of course the 250W will give me less but probably will use more battery than the 500W. but the 250W can be enough? or i cannot compare to Bosh, Brose and other motors and maybe it's better to get the 500w? Grazie
Hey Giorgio! Those variants of the Tongsheng you mentioned are all 36V. Which means, they all deffer each other by software configuration.
If you intend to install the OSF, it doesn't matter if it's the 250, 350 or 500W: it's simply the same motor! Just go for the cheapest one.
If you want instead to keep the stock firmware, go for the 500W. It's simply the best you can get out of the 36V version.
The same idea applies to the 48V version, but ONLY for Tongsheng mid-drive motors! For Bafang it's a different one. I hope this clarifies a bit
@@LukeLorusso sorry I made a question in this video dedicated to the osf but I meant a general choice. I am trying to understand the pros and cons of getting the 250w or the 500w . I exclude the bafang since I don't think it's a good idea for mountain tracks
@@giorgio.plazzotta with the stock fw, the 250W would feel really slow... when I got the 500W I though the wrong unit was shipped to me, while instead it was actually the 500 one: it just felt less "energetic"
I'll say go for the 500W: if you prefer to stay in the 36V space, you won't be disappointed!
@@LukeLorusso I read that if I go for the 500w I could get the 48v version that will need a 48v battery. I wonder which pro and cons with the 36v
@@giorgio.plazzotta if we talk about the stock firmware, on the power level there's no difference between a 500W @ 36V vs 48V.
But, on the 48V variant you can get more range, cause you can have more Wh on the same battery size. If you take two batteries at 15Ah, you got 540Wh at 36V, while 720Wh at 48V.
Then, if you wish to install the OSF, that 48V version will simply become a 750W unlocked one...
в режиме турбо ехал?
It'll overheat and die on you sooner than you think.
Its a great motor once you put some heatsinks on it, outside of this its barely adequate as obviously, a dead motor isn't much use. I'd go as far as to say it's almost fraudulent the state in wihch this motor is sold given the serious heat issues it has.
Other niggling issues such as premature clutch failure, and otherwise poor quality components (for example, the pedal axle is known to crack and snap) really let this motor down. Extra modifications such as adding bearings and shims can help, but ultimately what it needs is better made components. For the average ebiker/non-tinkerer, this motor is absolutely not suitable.
In spite of this, i love the OSF aspect of it and for that reason alone i'm very fond of my TSDZ2(B). Particularly in an economy/society whereby manufacturers are "software locking" down everything behind paywalls and extortionate fees.
How many issues have you personally had?
I'm lucky so far, according to some on the internet. 4000km without any issues.
Sure, I did add the additional bearings when I did the cooling modifications. But stock firmware should be fine without the cooling mod, and the spindle issue is very much dependent on the rider and riding being done. It's a weak design, but I'm a lightweight and I can go over jumps and drops without issues ( I actually do take my bike on the single track here ). I seen many pictures of people with broken spindles, most of them are twice my size.
Besides, I totally agree with you that tsdz2(b) right now is now what I would recommend to people.
Tsdz8 is much better :) I almost feel sad for not having waited till it came in stock when I was looking to buy.
Anybody want a programming cable for tsdz2/tsdz2b?
Yes, I'm looking for one
Me too
@gavinlewis2264 I make them and sell on ebay. What country are you in?
@juan1ride what country are you in?
@@user-wo3ln3nu7e I’m in the US, but I just ordered a premade one