Tongsheng TSDZ2 Creak Fix And Must Upgrades
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- Опубликовано: 23 июл 2023
- A quick vid on must do upgrades if you have a tongsheng tsdz2 on your bike and are experiencing creaks, or to prevent them from developing or your crank spindle failing.
www.djoccult.com
streamlabs.com/djoccult1/tip 
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Only 1 minute in and by far this is the most clear video of these motors - nice job 👍
Do you put the BB30 spacer behind the sprag clutch as it appears to have another c clip behind there where it needs to go?
Amazing advice, thanks for the video! I'm in the UK, same motor and same problem, creaky squeak and a bit of play after 2200 miles... Given me confidence to have a good look inside...
Do you put the BB30 spacer behind the sprag clutch, looks like there is another c clip behind there where it needs to go?
Hey thanks, i have a wobbly chainring that rubs on the pinion gearr cover. I believe adding a shim like you suggested will solve my problem :)
Do you put the BB30 spacer behind the sprag clutch as it appears to have another c clip behind there where it needs to go?
This sounds like the exact same problem I have at the moment, thought it was the new saddle I had fitted rubbing as the noise sounded like plastic rubbing rather than mechanical.
Thanks for the recommendations! I was wondering if you have any info on the origin8 chainring. I'm looking for a compatible chainring that works with Tongsheng. I've found the thickness of many chainrings doesn't fit. I'm wondering if they might make an origin8 like yours that's bigger, maybe a 50/52t. Thanks for any info!
I did the bearing mod a while back and yes, it's a good idea, but, in my case the fit is so sloppy it's debatable whether the inner race will be made to turn by the shaft rotation. Still, it does add more support and could be bettered with some Loctite bearing fit on the inner race if I was convinced the shaft rotates true enough.
Teflon tape over the bearings after some riding locked it in place for me
Today I added a second bearing to the non drive side. The second bearing did not set flush with the edge of the bottom bracket. It protruded about 3/16". I hope it would not give me problems using it like that.
Can you advise what the replacement chainring you used, BCD measurements etc. I would like to upgrade to a 52T but am a bit concerned about the clearance and offset.
Thanks! Very useful.
Interested in the battery - what is it, seems quite a low profile
I have theTSDZ2B motor but maybe tongsheng should of produced better quality steel on the spindles as I'm doing 40 to 50 miles daily and my spindles have worn at 830 miles but only the left spindle the right side is perfect , used same crank arms and bolts that came with kit , 1 thing I will say is you definitely need threadlocker blue with this kit
Me too. My spindle has rounded off slightly where it square tapers with the cranks, so there's a creak every pedal rotation. Fixed it by wrapping the spindle taper in a layer of aluminium foil, then putting the crank on. This old trick fills the gaps and usually works for months before needing reapplication. Torque wrench and threadlocker blue is also essential.
@Crand0m do you think a gasket material before inital use may mitigate?
Mine's in the post so I'm trying to prep it best on arrival
Thanks for sharing, I did the bearing mod, not sure I am brave enough to pull the sprocket side off to fit the washers.
I added teflon tape ofer the bearings after a few miles when the creak came back, might help
Thanks for the reply. The only issue I have had with the motor is the silver securing nut working itself loose over time. I am unable to find a socket tool to fit a torque wrench for example to be able to know how tight it should be. Otherwise I am currently hitting the supplied spanner with a mallet to get a secure fit and eliminate any creaking.
@@Phil8219 theres a special spanner from pedro tools thats like a vice that works
@@djoccult Do you have a link you could share with me?
@@djoccult Also I have found packing very thin slice of metal between the bottom bracket and motor shaft behind the silver securing nut reduces the movement, this has been pretty effective.
Precisely HOW did you remove the water gasket on the NDS of the bike?
I slipped a little flat head screwdriver between the gasket and the metal and the pried it out. Maybe there’s a better way?
What size are the two copper washers referred to at 1:59 of the video?
15mm id, outer prob 19mm, super super thin
How would you go about removing the bearing in order to get at the circlip to remove the BB-shaft if required in the future?
Exactly. I just removed the seal ring on mine, and saw the circlip. I was just searching for this comment.
Just figured it out. The bearing is such a loose fit, that when I removed the sealing cover from one side of the bearing, I could just pull it out with a circlip plier. So I just pressed an other (same size, but unmolested bearing in. If I ever have to pull it out, I csn just remove the seal cover from the bearings side and pull it out again.
I think you'd need to remove it and cut a fresh groove to fit beyond the bearing, perhaps?
Good question, I hadn't considered this and was about to order some.
Then you have to start at the drive-side and remove the circlips etc. Then you can push the axle out to the other side also pushing out the extra bearing...
OK thanks
How do you remove the sprag clutch and where exactly do the put the 0.5mm spacer on the sprag clutch?
I think it sits behind the sprag clutch, I am going to attempt the mod in the next few weeks, I have attached a link to a Tongsheng video that shows the sprag removal, I think it will simply sit behind the sprag clutch. I will keep you updated once I have done it.
ruclips.net/video/XIzVzBbAfgc/видео.htmlsi=3xg0TtxoH-pYZHhH
I tried the washer behind the sprag clutch, I was unable to fit it as the C clip would not fit back to hold the main gear, the space was too tight.
You mean BB30 24mm 0.5mm or PF30-0.5-1 if there is any difference:) ?
No difference but internal diameter will be 30mm
The TSDZ2 has been around for many years now i have a first gen one, not a single creak out of it, 90% of the creaks are incorrect tightening when installing and not fitting all the supports.
I was thinking about purchasing this kit from my first home build, but after watching this video, I’m not touching this motor with a 10 foot pole. You have to go through all these mods to make it run normally? Nah
This is true but you get torque sensing for very cheap. It's also very repairable, with great spare part availability. Depends what your looking for.
Worth it for weight and torque sensor. And if you have tools and time.