Omg!!!!! The exact same thing happened to our Altima. I showed this video to my husband and it totally worked. After replacing the pads rotors and calipers we were at a loss as to why the brakes kept sticking. Thank you so much. You have a follower now!!
Man you saved my butt after changing a caliper and messing with the brakes switches and cruise control switches. I did not have a clear they had to be adjusted like that. My brakes were locking up and that fixed it. Thank you so much
Dude, I cannot begin to thank you for posting this video. I've been dealing with brake issues for TWO FRICKING YEARS. I've changed everything I could possibly change in the brake system. I never thiught it would end. Tonight, it did. Thank you so much. Thank you thank you thank you. You literally changed my life bro. No bullshit. Thank you.
I agree both my tail lights are out so I changed the stop light switch and my front brake on the right side started locking up I changed the caliper as I'm driving back my left caliper locked up now I'm thinking what the hell. I did what you said loosen up the brake stop switch and both are no longer locked up , thank God and thanks for the!!!!
I have the EXACT same problem on my customers Toyota Camry. If it wasn't for your video I would have went in a totally different direction. Thanks for the great Video
Thank you so much.. you are the real life saver... My pedal stopper switch broke... when replacing the switch i plugged all the way in.. after that car wont move ... Watching the video helped me fix the issue
Thanks for sharing, your awesome. I had the same problem where my car wouldn’t start but I could hear a clicking sound like if was a bad starter. Replaced starter and still car wouldn’t start. So I finally changed the brake pedal switch. Car started but now it wouldn’t move😂. Changed one caliper that I thought was seized. Ran fine for 1 mile before stating to lock up. Found your video and boom problem fixed. I had set the switch too low. Once I adjusted it worked like a champ.
Glad the video helped! It's crazy how common this problem is and how easy it is for people to waste money on parts that aren't needed. Thanks for the comment 👍
All I can say is you Rock!! My sons Sentra had the same issue. Had to replace fan blower can cabin filter ; had the brake piece too far forward scotted it back to where the switched barely touch the pedal and boom car fixed.
This happened to me in my 92 Toyota Century. The black rubber clutch pedal stopper disintegrated and I replaced it with a bolt and a nut. I guess the nut portion was too thick and caused the brake switch nipple to bottom out which caused my brakes to lock up and produce a burning brake pad smell. I need to go back out and remove the nut portion so the brake switch nipple is only slightly depressed so I can drive the car again. I had to miss work because of this issue. Your video helped me confirm that indeed my DIY metal bolt and nut grommet was just too tall and caused electrical then physical brake issues.
Thank you ! Video helpful! Car wouldn’t start so I messed with brake switch and never thought putting it into far cause brakes to lock up ! Had all four brakes smoking after 1 mile test drive ! Son car didn’t start and it was the steering column lock !
I Have A Kia Sportage And I Have Been Having The Same Issue And NO One Has Been Able To Figure Out Why My Brakes Are Locking Up.. Today I'm Going To Try This And I'm Hoping That It Works For My Car As Well Thank You So So Very Much I'll Let you Know What Happens Thanks Again 😌🙏
Great diagnostic procedure. I'm having the same issue with a 1990 GMC Vandura. It might not be the same issue but I think it is further back than the flex hoses since it's both front brakes. I just got to brake the rusty mugs loose before I can verify. Trying my best not to damage the metal lines. After watching this I'm going to bypass that step for now and see if there could be a similar issue to yours before I brake the brake line. Thx.
Gracias amigo muchas gracias por tu video me ayudó bastante me sacaste de un problema cuando mi carro tuvo el mismo problema y no sabía qué hacer muchas gracias 👍
This happened to my 07 Sentra, had to keep pulling hose from brake booster to release air / pressure. Still haven’t figured out what causes it. Car will sit and it goes away or you have to pull the hose to release.
Thanks for the video. A friends 350Z had the rubber grommet that activates the switch fall apart from age which is common. I repaired it after watching a couple videos on fixing it but nobody mentions that the switches had to be perfectly adjusted so his brakes were locking up just like this.
Rlknight57 , is the rubber part you're talking about the little plastic piece that keeps the break pedal depressed ? What did you adjust? A honda after the same rubber or plastic thing was replaced the front brakes locked up real bad after 2 miles of driving
Hi ... I am having same issue on x trail brake lock up ... There is correlation of both switch? You align them in a line? In mine somebody removed both switch I put them and start the car, then brake locked instantly. ... Please advise...thanks in advance
If it's just one one caliper then it's probably not the same problem. If that caliper is locking up I'd replace the caliper and brake hose for that caliper at the same time .
This was a temporary fix for me. I’ve done calipers rotors and pads. After purchasing a new brake switch, I adjusted accordingly. It worked well for about two weeks and now my brakes are locking up again. Ice adjusted and re adjusted switches and that doesn’t release front brakes
@@themechanic6117 thank you very much - my mechanic advice me to buy repair caliper kit, because of this issue, finally when watch this and try to adjust the switch button around 5 minutes i try to press brake pedal i felt soft and try to move- finally my car is no more brake issue.
Bruh thanks so much I got a 03 350z and brakes locked up on me it only has 62378 miles on it. It's been tucked and put up the only 350z with that low miles on it in America I'm sure. I know it's not the brake cylinder I re adjusted the brake light switch and cruise switch and my car no longer locks up on me. Put a PayPal up bro so I can do something nice for you. Your appreciated much love.
My son hit a puddle of water and water came in the car through the gas n brake pedal area. Right after the brake light came on and the left front caliper locked up . Was wondering if switches could've shorted out or maybe need adjustment. How do you adjust them. 2015 nissan altima
Yep! This is it! I have a 2007 Armada which I had replaced , pads rotors and calipers a few months ago... All was OK until I found a DTC code 'P1564 ' which was a cruise control problem.. Well, I never use my cruise, but sure enough it was NOT working... So I started to trouble-shoot and eventually came to the step to check those switches under the brake pedal... I pulled them out , easy enough, and checked them with a VOM meter, and they were fine. I re-installed them and went for a test drive and that's when ALL hell broke loose! The front brakes locked up, smoked, and barley got it home... Guess i put them in wrong are somthing... Found in the manual how to adjust them, but really difficult to measure... will keep trying, but 99.9999% this is the fix! just wish I didnt mess with them in the first place.... thx for the vid!
That's really bizarre. I can't imagine why anyone would mess with the switches, but I also can't imagine how they'd get out of adjustment all by themselves
So when you have a no crank no start with an altima 1 of the first things you find if you google it is that your brake switch and cruise control switch may be bad. It's ez to miss that they are adjustable and they probly put them back in without realizing it just lile I did
my accord did the samething wit new calipers and old calipers now idk what to do and now i lost all brake pressure and the brakes wont bleed where should i start
So changing your calipers was a mistake. First you have to bleed the system till you have pressure, then adjust the brake switch and cruise control switch
Okay, I am definitely gonna try this. We figured it was a safety feature on the car. We have an '07 that did just fine when I put it in neutral to pull it up because it wasn't starting but later when I went to push it to the mechanic, it wouldn't move. Now the mechanic is trying to sell me brakes when they don't even know why they're locked up in the first place.
I had the same problem I changed that switch for the tail lights to turn on and off and my front brakes have been locking up. I also may have screwed it in a little too far
Thank you so much. You saved the day! I made a sharp left turn, then my brakes locked up and before calling a wrecker to pick my truck up I did a search and I found your video. I turned my truck off, disconnected the brake and cruise control switches. Restarted the truck, then turn the truck off. Then, reconnected the switches. All was good. But I don't know what caused this to happen. Could it be an issue with the ABS system, having corrosion. Thinking about spraying it with air sensor control electronic spray to clean. Any thoughts. Thank you so much for saving the day :-)
The metal clamp that holds the rubber on your break line is metal. After time, the build rust causing it to pinch the break line. You can push the breaks, and they will work, but there's not enough pressure for the release. Try changing the metal clamp holding your line.
very helpful content man. I presume this wasn't causing the taillights to light up? I'm having issues with an infiniti Q50. Relatively new calipers.. both locked up at the same time. Dealership said replace calipers, but I'm going to ask them to look at these switches because the diagnostics scan wouldn't report on this right?
Replacing the calipers would be a waste of money. It's VERY unlikely that two calipers go bad at the same time. Check the brake and cruise control switches.
@@themechanic6117 agreed. I asked them to look at switch height adjustment, and they said looked fine. What about MC? it should operate 2 separate circuits.. one for front and one for rear no? The fluid releases at the caliper... and releases at the MC where they release pressure off the piston.
Honestly I kinda have the same problem but it’s slightly different and I really need help. So I shut off my car before I put it into parked and the brakes are now locked I don’t know how to take them out of lock and don’t know if they are gonna stay like that. I never had problems with my brakes before so I’m wondering how can I fix it.
I have a titan,when it's very cold first thing the brake pedal is very hard until you overcome it a few times. I figure it's a vacuum leak but did you see if they mentioned titans ln that forum?
Nissan tends to use the sane design on different vehicles so you may want to read it for yourself. Im not sure if someone mentioned your vehicle specifically. www.nissanclub.com/threads/brakes-dragging-locking-up.514026/
I really wonder how those switches would lock the brakes. Wonder if it's some kind of safety feature. So they were always being pressed down because of the state they were in?
Yes they were always being depressed but thats normal. I think there may be another switch and since the pedal couldn't fully return due to these switches being bottomed out it was affecting the other switch.
@@themechanic6117 ohh I got it now. I was thinking in a switching/electrical sense rather than a mechanical sense... which is why I wasn't making sense of it.
My locked up like it was grinding..it would shift but wouldn't go.just got caliber, hose,pads,replaced 4 days prior was on my way to take it to shop for wheel bearing replacement and it did this any one know why it wouldnt move
Also how many parts got thrown at a car because of this? On the forums the people having this issue are talking about how they replaced all their calipers, pads , rotors, brake hoses and the problem is still their ! Id be upset if that were me !
OMG, my wife's friend daughter had their battery changed and possibly the starter too. When she picked up the car, the brakes were sticking. I know, ever since? They looked it over and said nothing, they did. She took the car, now the kid was smart enough to put foot under pedal and lift and the car brakes released. WTF is that about? So here I am and the car need P&R all the way around. I experienced the brakes holding back and sure enough it released again WTF is that about, they were factory installed. So now I am going to call them back and adjust the park brake switches or see if there is a brake rod adjustment. I will let you know. My thought is the brake fluid is contaminated and was thinking it is the master cylinder as well being bad. Never too old to learn.
What's the right position??? Please answer... I have a recall on my pathfinder for these because they kept the light ON at all times... I took them out and cleaned the Insides..replaced the relay and bingo...no light issue But then my breaks locked up on the way home I just need to know how much to adjust them!! As specific as you can get
I replaced everything idk if my maxima the 2001parts have been sitting on shelf quality isn't new or what. Car is better than it was. But when the weather gets past 80 outside the problems come back after 15 min the brakes stick smoke off the wheel. When sun goes down I'm good to go. Maybe a new car soon . I literally replaced everything on this car I love it. Maybe I'll find way better quality only thing I can think of parts made a while ago and just sit in the store shelves. No one really has a 2001 maxima anymore so idk
@@themechanic6117 no that's the most genius thing I haven't checked. Your the only one to ever say that. How did u get to those switches or once I find them do I need any special tools to adjust. I don't have cruise control either. It only does this when the sun is out and it's really hot. How do you adjust the switch
@@themechanic6117 if u could explain how to move the switches off that metal plate that would be great. I'll try to check it out later I never seen those switches though that has to be the issue
@@themechanic6117 i have a 2010 Mercury Mariner doing this exact same thing but it currently has a bad battery. I serviced the calipers checked brake like and was about to order an abs pump as its not the booster until i saw this video
I have the same exact issue with my Toyota Innova. Went to many mechanics who had no idea what's going on for about a year now, everytime I thought I got it fixed it comes back. Overheating rotors and front wheels get stuck. Also the brake light stays on unless I keep pressing the pedal. Wondering if you could help. I really appreciate the video but I'm clearly no mechanic lol.
I usually charge half of local labor and twice the parts cost. 75.00 per hour plus parts. I'm NOT the cheapest but like Nic I don't screw people over. It pays more to be helpful and honest in the long run.
Twice the cost of parts? So if a part cost $50 you charge $100 for it?? I don't charge extra for parts. Sometimes they bring their own parts , sometimes i order parts for them but i dont mark up prices on parts . they only pay for my labor
@@themechanic6117 yea, I started that way too until warranty work for bad parts then I was like, NOPE. If you double ur parts at least you don't get screwed over. And I don't mind customer parts but 9 times out of 10 customer parts are junk or wrong.... Slows me down
I hear you and more power to you but charging double for parts where im at ill be sure to lose customers. I can find a part on rockauto for $60 to save the customer money since autozone wants $110 and the customer thinks $60 is too much and they found a cheap part on Amazon for $40. At that point i just warn them about cheap parts and if it fails im not responsible. Nore do i warranty any parts. If a part fails, the owner has to buy another one and i will charge for labor once again. Its not my fault the cheap part failed. I just put in a used (junk yard) alternator on a ladies car for $250 . I told her if it fails anytime soon im not responsible and she will be charged labor once again. Even if its a oem part, if it fails .im still not responsible, labor will be charged again. The only time i will "warranty" labor is if its something I did wrong but that doesnt happen often.
That car had of had that issue before it came to you. That’s just odd that the brake /cruse control switches were out of adjustment after they jumped it. Mind blown. Maybe someone was messing with it before you got ahold of it
I ain’t surprise it was done on purpose to sell them some new brakes 🤔😳 , like I said I don’t take any car to any shop...unbelievable ! That was a awesome find.. nice job bro” I will keep that one in mind...thanks
Omg 😱🤯🤯. I was working on my sis 08 Nissan Sentra. I did a motor blower job. After patching everything up my brakes were stiff and brakes kept locking up. I ended up replacing two calipers and all four brake hoses. Didn't fix the problem. I was so frustrated i took it to a shop to get diagnosed. They said brake booster and master cylinder is bad and leaking fluid. I was like ????? No way everything was fine up until I did the motor blower job.. i took the car home and tested the brake booster. It was fine, and vacuum and all. No leaks either. Stupid shop tried to rip me off. So Car sat for a month and I was so upset with myself because my sister needs her car and i just couldn't figure out the problem. Then I see this video, I tried. what do you fuckin know!!!!? It worked! I adjusted the electrical switch that connects to the brake pedal how you said to in the video. Now the brakes work like normal. Thank you so much. Seriously. Sucks I wasted all that money when thier was no need.
Wow that sucks! I feel your pain. Just like in the video. You have to think logically with cars. It worked fine before you did a certain job and sure one thing can go bad out of nowhere but it's highly unlikely or impossible for so many parts to go bad at once. I'm glad the video helped you.
People mess with the brake switch cause it's a push start ignition. Altimas were known for a no crank cause of a bad brake switch... but when they reinstall them they shove them all the way in lol
I’m replaced that sensor today and the front breaks locked up after driving few Miles ,I thought it’s my call overs I replaced them too and it locked again so now I’m going to check on this sensor hopefully it just need adjustment as you mentioned
Before i watched this video , i replaced the master Cylinder, the abs module , i replaced the break hoses, i still have the problem but after watching this i realize the problem was on my break light switch.
I tired everything calipers rotors hoses.... What fixed my problem is I bought a 50$ scan tool cleared all my codes then before driving I turn traction control off !. My wheel speed sensors must be bad so it tells ECU I'm slipping and locks / drags wheels with the abs system to point of smoke. Scan tool and traction control off helped my brake stick problem.
They twist and lock in place. Counter turn unlocks then and you can adjust the dept, then once you have there where you want them you turn it clockwise to lock it in place.
I did this to my 2012 Nissan Altima Coupe and it freed them for a second. Once I moved the car and came to a stop everything locked back up again. At first I thought it had something to do with my parking brake because I used it the day before and the next everything was locked up. After watching this video though, I adjusted my switches pretty close to where you have those and it moved and then locked back up. So now I’m confused, aggravated, and just want to sell it. Any ideas on what I could do to fix my issue?
If the front brakes are locking up at the same time then it's definitely the cruise control / brake switch. Try adjusting them into different positions
@@themechanic6117 I read some threads on people having the same issues and you sir are correct. It has something to do with the adjustment of the switches. Thank you for making this video. I now know the issue with my car.
@@themechanic6117 It should be close. If not you are cutting yourself short. Let someone else figure out what you did. Someone else would have replaced all the calipers and still not fixed it. Let them take it to a stealership and see what they charge
For the time i had invested in it i feel like i should have charged $200 but its hard to. Tell someone the price is $200 and then explaining what i did to fix it. People dont look at the time i invested they ask why im charging $200 to ajust a switch that only takes minutes
@@themechanic6117 Just saying this, your knowledge is worth something just like any industry would charge. Do you think any professional business would say. “Ehh it was just a relay that was stuck on. That will be $15” Tell that to a Doctor that you spend 7 minutes in the office for him to tell you that you have a 24 hour virus. I am not paying your $467 office visit because I was only in your office for 7 minutes and you only said it was a virus. I am saying all this to say that I work on people’s cars for free and have been told I have done the best job out of all the shops they take them to. And I am a basic DIYer
I completely understand and i agree with you. When i first started doing this i was really selling myself short. Those days are over and i feel like i charge appropriately for the most part. For this job i charged $120 because theyre good customers of mine. Anyone else i would have charged about $150 . its also important to not screw people over with prices because they'll never come back. I agree with you though. The longer i do this i realize my worth even more.
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Omg!!!!! The exact same thing happened to our Altima. I showed this video to my husband and it totally worked. After replacing the pads rotors and calipers we were at a loss as to why the brakes kept sticking. Thank you so much. You have a follower now!!
Glad the video helped you! 👍
Man you saved my butt after changing a caliper and messing with the brakes switches and cruise control switches. I did not have a clear they had to be adjusted like that. My brakes were locking up and that fixed it. Thank you so much
Dude, I cannot begin to thank you for posting this video. I've been dealing with brake issues for TWO FRICKING YEARS. I've changed everything I could possibly change in the brake system. I never thiught it would end. Tonight, it did. Thank you so much. Thank you thank you thank you. You literally changed my life bro. No bullshit. Thank you.
That's crazy. Glad the video helped you
I agree both my tail lights are out so I changed the stop light switch and my front brake on the right side started locking up I changed the caliper as I'm driving back my left caliper locked up now I'm thinking what the hell. I did what you said loosen up the brake stop switch and both are no longer locked up , thank God and thanks for the!!!!
I have the EXACT same problem on my customers Toyota Camry. If it wasn't for your video I would have went in a totally different direction. Thanks for the great Video
Thank you. Glad you found the video before throwing parts at the car
Thank you so much.. you are the real life saver...
My pedal stopper switch broke... when replacing the switch i plugged all the way in.. after that car wont move ...
Watching the video helped me fix the issue
Glad the video helped you!
Thanks for sharing, your awesome. I had the same problem where my car wouldn’t start but I could hear a clicking sound like if was a bad starter. Replaced starter and still car wouldn’t start. So I finally changed the brake pedal switch. Car started but now it wouldn’t move😂. Changed one caliper that I thought was seized. Ran fine for 1 mile before stating to lock up. Found your video and boom problem fixed. I had set the switch too low. Once I adjusted it worked like a champ.
Glad the video helped! It's crazy how common this problem is and how easy it is for people to waste money on parts that aren't needed. Thanks for the comment 👍
Excellent Video! Appreciate the reminder. Had to replace the dry rotted rubber inserts that held the brake button down on my infinity g35.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Thanks a lot for your work and information. No one else figured it out. Been havingvthe same issue lately with my d40 navara.
Glad it helped you, good luck 👍
Thank you so much for this video! I so needed to see this for my versa
Omg same problem never would have figured it out without your post thanks so much
All I can say is you Rock!! My sons Sentra had the same issue. Had to replace fan blower can cabin filter ; had the brake piece too far forward scotted it back to where the switched barely touch the pedal and boom car fixed.
That's amazing, glad the video helped you 👍
Well I found your video before I found the forum, so thank you sir very much!!!!!!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching
You my friend...Bravo...I'm having similar problems with my mazda 3. I'm going to check that asap. Thanks man!!
You're welcome and good luck
Great video! Had the same exact problem on my xterra! Adjustment of the switch fixed all my issues! Thanks!
Nice. Glad the video helped you
That is crazy engineering. I never would have expected that either. Sometimes forums are helpful.
It definitely threw a curve ball at me ! Seems like stupid engineering to me.
This might be my current problem. Looking at other videos.. noone else talks about having to adjust it. How do you adjust it?
Life saver video exact problem on Honda accord thanks a lot
You're welcome
This happened to me in my 92 Toyota Century. The black rubber clutch pedal stopper disintegrated and I replaced it with a bolt and a nut.
I guess the nut portion was too thick and caused the brake switch nipple to bottom out which caused my brakes to lock up and produce a burning brake pad smell.
I need to go back out and remove the nut portion so the brake switch nipple is only slightly depressed so I can drive the car again.
I had to miss work because of this issue. Your video helped me confirm that indeed my DIY metal bolt and nut grommet was just too tall and caused electrical then physical brake issues.
Thank you ! Video helpful! Car wouldn’t start so I messed with brake switch and never thought putting it into far cause brakes to lock up ! Had all four brakes smoking after 1 mile test drive ! Son car didn’t start and it was the steering column lock !
I Have A Kia Sportage And I Have Been Having The Same Issue And NO One Has Been Able To Figure Out Why My Brakes Are Locking Up.. Today I'm Going To Try This And I'm Hoping That It Works For My Car As Well Thank You So So Very Much I'll Let you Know What Happens Thanks Again 😌🙏
Thank you so much , this video save my life
Glad it helped you
Great diagnostic procedure. I'm having the same issue with a 1990 GMC Vandura. It might not be the same issue but I think it is further back than the flex hoses since it's both front brakes. I just got to brake the rusty mugs loose before I can verify. Trying my best not to damage the metal lines. After watching this I'm going to bypass that step for now and see if there could be a similar issue to yours before I brake the brake line. Thx.
Gracias amigo muchas gracias por tu video me ayudó bastante me sacaste de un problema cuando mi carro tuvo el mismo problema y no sabía qué hacer muchas gracias 👍
Thanks for the video really helpful!! Solved my problem all my brakes on my Altima were locked up.
Glad the video helped
This happened to my 07 Sentra, had to keep pulling hose from brake booster to release air / pressure. Still haven’t figured out what causes it. Car will sit and it goes away or you have to pull the hose to release.
Nice Diagnosis!
Of course, she didn't want any maintenance. LOL!
Naturally lol. Its been a few days and now the rear brakes are grinding....so its going to be back in the garage soon for rear brakes
Thanks for the video. A friends 350Z had the rubber grommet that activates the switch fall apart from age which is common. I repaired it after watching a couple videos on fixing it but nobody mentions that the switches had to be perfectly adjusted so his brakes were locking up just like this.
Glad the video helped you
Rlknight57 , is the rubber part you're talking about the little plastic piece that keeps the break pedal depressed ? What did you adjust? A honda after the same rubber or plastic thing was replaced the front brakes locked up real bad after 2 miles of driving
The brake/cruise control switch itself usually has adjustment in it.
@@themechanic6117 I wish you had filmed the adjustment process. Do I need to remove the switch to adjust ?
No you adjust it while it's on the car. Every car is different on how these things are adjusted
Thank you for your in depth diagnosis!!
This video save me money, I had the same problem for my Hyundai Santa Fe
Thanks for watching
Thanks man, your video helped me ❤
Glad to hear it!
Thanks bro. You saved me time and money
You're welcome
Hi ... I am having same issue on x trail brake lock up ... There is correlation of both switch? You align them in a line? In mine somebody removed both switch I put them and start the car, then brake locked instantly. ... Please advise...thanks in advance
You just got a new subscriber. Thanks for this video bro cheers
You saved me with this video!!! Thank you!!
You're welcome
Thanks mate you saved my bacon and got me back on the road.. modern cars. Too f...kin complicated...
It's a simple problem that could make you waste a ton of money on unnecessary parts
No parts required . Ivan would be proud of you.
Yes he would ! Cheers 👍💪
@@themechanic6117 am having same issues at the Back left side 07 Nissan Altima am hoping is the same . easy fix.?
If it's just one one caliper then it's probably not the same problem. If that caliper is locking up I'd replace the caliper and brake hose for that caliper at the same time .
thank you very much. it helped me a lot in our nissan juke 2020
Great to hear. Glad the video helped you
This was a temporary fix for me. I’ve done calipers rotors and pads. After purchasing a new brake switch, I adjusted accordingly. It worked well for about two weeks and now my brakes are locking up again. Ice adjusted and re adjusted switches and that doesn’t release front brakes
This exactly facing to problem my Altima 2013 first issue is no crank after that brake stuck up - i hope this is issue
Good luck 👍
@@themechanic6117 thank you very much - my mechanic advice me to buy repair caliper kit, because of this issue, finally when watch this and try to adjust the switch button around 5 minutes i try to press brake pedal i felt soft and try to move- finally my car is no more brake issue.
Hey. Is switch brake problems right
Bruh thanks so much I got a 03 350z and brakes locked up on me it only has 62378 miles on it. It's been tucked and put up the only 350z with that low miles on it in America I'm sure. I know it's not the brake cylinder I re adjusted the brake light switch and cruise switch and my car no longer locks up on me. Put a PayPal up bro so I can do something nice for you. Your appreciated much love.
Glad the video helped you , There's a paypal link in the description of the video. I appreciate your donation 🙏
My son hit a puddle of water and water came in the car through the gas n brake pedal area. Right after the brake light came on and the left front caliper locked up . Was wondering if switches could've shorted out or maybe need adjustment. How do you adjust them. 2015 nissan altima
There's usually an adjustment screw on the switch itself. Make sure they aren't wet
@@themechanic6117 thanks
Nice fix and diag👌
Thank you
Yep! This is it! I have a 2007 Armada which I had replaced , pads rotors and calipers a few months ago... All was OK until I found a DTC code 'P1564 ' which was a cruise control problem.. Well, I never use my cruise, but sure enough it was NOT working... So I started to trouble-shoot and eventually came to the step to check those switches under the brake pedal... I pulled them out , easy enough, and checked them with a VOM meter, and they were fine. I re-installed them and went for a test drive and that's when ALL hell broke loose! The front brakes locked up, smoked, and barley got it home... Guess i put them in wrong are somthing... Found in the manual how to adjust them, but really difficult to measure... will keep trying, but 99.9999% this is the fix! just wish I didnt mess with them in the first place.... thx for the vid!
I have this problem after battery issue, I wonder if that's the cause of this issue.
its a nissan issue! same thing with our rogue i found someone else first but this is needed info
That's really bizarre. I can't imagine why anyone would mess with the switches, but I also can't imagine how they'd get out of adjustment all by themselves
I agree , i dont think i was getting the full story or the truth
So when you have a no crank no start with an altima 1 of the first things you find if you google it is that your brake switch and cruise control switch may be bad. It's ez to miss that they are adjustable and they probly put them back in without realizing it just lile I did
Thank you so much
You're welcome
my accord did the samething wit new calipers and old calipers now idk what to do and now i lost all brake pressure and the brakes wont bleed where should i start
So changing your calipers was a mistake. First you have to bleed the system till you have pressure, then adjust the brake switch and cruise control switch
Okay, I am definitely gonna try this. We figured it was a safety feature on the car. We have an '07 that did just fine when I put it in neutral to pull it up because it wasn't starting but later when I went to push it to the mechanic, it wouldn't move. Now the mechanic is trying to sell me brakes when they don't even know why they're locked up in the first place.
I had the same problem I changed that switch for the tail lights to turn on and off and my front brakes have been locking up. I also may have screwed it in a little too far
2006 Toyota Camry
Thank you so much. You saved the day! I made a sharp left turn, then my brakes locked up and before calling a wrecker to pick my truck up I did a search and I found your video. I turned my truck off, disconnected the brake and cruise control switches. Restarted the truck, then turn the truck off. Then, reconnected the switches. All was good. But I don't know what caused this to happen. Could it be an issue with the ABS system, having corrosion. Thinking about spraying it with air sensor control electronic spray to clean. Any thoughts. Thank you so much for saving the day :-)
The metal clamp that holds the rubber on your break line is metal. After time, the build rust causing it to pinch the break line. You can push the breaks, and they will work, but there's not enough pressure for the release. Try changing the metal clamp holding your line.
In the video I actually showed what the fix is ...
very helpful content man. I presume this wasn't causing the taillights to light up? I'm having issues with an infiniti Q50. Relatively new calipers.. both locked up at the same time. Dealership said replace calipers, but I'm going to ask them to look at these switches because the diagnostics scan wouldn't report on this right?
Replacing the calipers would be a waste of money. It's VERY unlikely that two calipers go bad at the same time. Check the brake and cruise control switches.
@@themechanic6117 agreed. I asked them to look at switch height adjustment, and they said looked fine. What about MC? it should operate 2 separate circuits.. one for front and one for rear no? The fluid releases at the caliper... and releases at the MC where they release pressure off the piston.
Thank you so very much thank you
You're welcome
Honestly I kinda have the same problem but it’s slightly different and I really need help. So I shut off my car before I put it into parked and the brakes are now locked I don’t know how to take them out of lock and don’t know if they are gonna stay like that. I never had problems with my brakes before so I’m wondering how can I fix it.
The video explains how to fix it
Thank you so much! I had no idea what the heck was going on, and that fixed it. :-)
You're welcome!👍
great info...thank you
Hope it helps you
I replaced the Brake light switch, but locked up.. how tight or how do I adjust it just right to release caliper?? 2011 subaru legacy 2.5
Just like i showed in the video. You want the pedal to just press the switch without pushing it too far
I have a titan,when it's very cold first thing the brake pedal is very hard until you overcome it a few times. I figure it's a vacuum leak but did you see if they mentioned titans ln that forum?
Nissan tends to use the sane design on different vehicles so you may want to read it for yourself. Im not sure if someone mentioned your vehicle specifically.
www.nissanclub.com/threads/brakes-dragging-locking-up.514026/
Thanks il take a look. I don't use the truck too often, just for hauling my dump trailer.
Great Job !
i have the same problem on my silverado but i don’t have those little modules it’s a 2008 silverado and idk how to fix it
Pretty much all cars have the brake and cruise control sensor somehow connected to the brake pedal
How do I adjust the switches
You can move them in or out
What an interesting problem, I've never seen that.
I know! It was a first for me. Sure is crazy
God bless you
Thank you
I really wonder how those switches would lock the brakes. Wonder if it's some kind of safety feature. So they were always being pressed down because of the state they were in?
Yes they were always being depressed but thats normal. I think there may be another switch and since the pedal couldn't fully return due to these switches being bottomed out it was affecting the other switch.
I also read that the two switches cant be pushed all the way in or it will cause this issue. Since they were bottomed out they were fully depressed
@@themechanic6117 ohh I got it now. I was thinking in a switching/electrical sense rather than a mechanical sense... which is why I wasn't making sense of it.
Yes its mechanical . its like a plunger
@@themechanic6117 You'll have to give me a break.. I'm sleepgry.. hungry and sleepy :D
That's the same with the acura TX I change the brakes stop grummet and know it locks up
same thing is happening on my 99 toyota , good hose lines and calipers. Could this happen on a toyota?
Yes, there someone else in the comment section saying it happened to their friends car and it wasn't a nissan . Adjusting those switches fixed it
My locked up like it was grinding..it would shift but wouldn't go.just got caliber, hose,pads,replaced 4 days prior was on my way to take it to shop for wheel bearing replacement and it did this any one know why it wouldnt move
If the brakes are locked up of course it wouldn't move
Looks like you can easily kick it out of alignment with normal use too so how many times has this happened to some one randomly in a parking lot.
Also how many parts got thrown at a car because of this? On the forums the people having this issue are talking about how they replaced all their calipers, pads , rotors, brake hoses and the problem is still their ! Id be upset if that were me !
@@themechanic6117 imagine if you weren't patient enough to Google some things to research the issue...
Hope you have deep pockets then lol
Same problem with my ford freestyle,,, after many new parts installed..
Sorry to hear that
so the brake swith was presing on the brake ,that why caliper were seize so the battery was dead because the brake light were on
The switch wasnt pressing hard enough to lock up the brakes like the way it was but thats a possibility. Yeah its crazy
Thank you man
You're welcome. Thanks for watching
My sister's 2007 Chevy Cobalt brakes lockingUp. A mechanic changed tha lines, calipers & still lockedUp.
Sounds like he made a big mistake! Wasting your money
OMG, my wife's friend daughter had their battery changed and possibly the starter too. When she picked up the car, the brakes were sticking. I know, ever since? They looked it over and said nothing, they did. She took the car, now the kid was smart enough to put foot under pedal and lift and the car brakes released. WTF is that about? So here I am and the car need P&R all the way around. I experienced the brakes holding back and sure enough it released again WTF is that about, they were factory installed. So now I am going to call them back and adjust the park brake switches or see if there is a brake rod adjustment. I will let you know. My thought is the brake fluid is contaminated and was thinking it is the master cylinder as well being bad. Never too old to learn.
Hey! I have an idea! Maybe just maybe its an anti lock issue!
How did you adjust those sensors?
There's nuts on them that you tighten down once you have it in the correct position
What's the right position???
Please answer...
I have a recall on my pathfinder for these because they kept the light ON at all times...
I took them out and cleaned the Insides..replaced the relay and bingo...no light issue
But then my breaks locked up on the way home
I just need to know how much to adjust them!!
As specific as you can get
I replaced everything idk if my maxima the 2001parts have been sitting on shelf quality isn't new or what. Car is better than it was. But when the weather gets past 80 outside the problems come back after 15 min the brakes stick smoke off the wheel. When sun goes down I'm good to go. Maybe a new car soon . I literally replaced everything on this car I love it. Maybe I'll find way better quality only thing I can think of parts made a while ago and just sit in the store shelves. No one really has a 2001 maxima anymore so idk
Did you check the switches like I showed in the video?
@@themechanic6117 no that's the most genius thing I haven't checked. Your the only one to ever say that. How did u get to those switches or once I find them do I need any special tools to adjust. I don't have cruise control either. It only does this when the sun is out and it's really hot. How do you adjust the switch
@@themechanic6117 if u could explain how to move the switches off that metal plate that would be great. I'll try to check it out later I never seen those switches though that has to be the issue
@@themechanic6117 next time it's starts acting up I'll check. I just looked under I don't have that
01 maxima 20th anniversary
They're use just twist in or out. Your car has a brake switch. Every car does
Did u find out what a no crank had to do with this?
it was just a bad battery
@@themechanic6117 i have a 2010 Mercury Mariner doing this exact same thing but it currently has a bad battery. I serviced the calipers checked brake like and was about to order an abs pump as its not the booster until i saw this video
Same issue on 11 subaru legacy, please help me 😭😭😭😭
Brake light flashing and traction control on
I have the same exact issue with my Toyota Innova. Went to many mechanics who had no idea what's going on for about a year now, everytime I thought I got it fixed it comes back. Overheating rotors and front wheels get stuck. Also the brake light stays on unless I keep pressing the pedal. Wondering if you could help. I really appreciate the video but I'm clearly no mechanic lol.
Check the switches that I showed in this video.
@@themechanic6117 I will do that. Thanks a lot man 🙏
Imo because your prices were the lowest rates in the area, you attracted the lowest paying clients... makes for good RUclips though
Yes word of mouth is im affordable and pretty good at what I do without screwing people over.
I usually charge half of local labor and twice the parts cost. 75.00 per hour plus parts. I'm NOT the cheapest but like Nic I don't screw people over. It pays more to be helpful and honest in the long run.
Twice the cost of parts? So if a part cost $50 you charge $100 for it?? I don't charge extra for parts. Sometimes they bring their own parts , sometimes i order parts for them but i dont mark up prices on parts . they only pay for my labor
@@themechanic6117 yea, I started that way too until warranty work for bad parts then I was like, NOPE. If you double ur parts at least you don't get screwed over. And I don't mind customer parts but 9 times out of 10 customer parts are junk or wrong.... Slows me down
I hear you and more power to you but charging double for parts where im at ill be sure to lose customers. I can find a part on rockauto for $60 to save the customer money since autozone wants $110 and the customer thinks $60 is too much and they found a cheap part on Amazon for $40. At that point i just warn them about cheap parts and if it fails im not responsible. Nore do i warranty any parts. If a part fails, the owner has to buy another one and i will charge for labor once again. Its not my fault the cheap part failed. I just put in a used (junk yard) alternator on a ladies car for $250 . I told her if it fails anytime soon im not responsible and she will be charged labor once again. Even if its a oem part, if it fails .im still not responsible, labor will be charged again. The only time i will "warranty" labor is if its something I did wrong but that doesnt happen often.
That car had of had that issue before it came to you. That’s just odd that the brake /cruse control switches were out of adjustment after they jumped it. Mind blown. Maybe someone was messing with it before you got ahold of it
Exactly. I asked the owner if someone was messing around down there and she said no but you know its sometimes impossible to get the truth.
Having this issue with my Infiniti
Hope the video helps
I ain’t surprise it was done on purpose to sell them some new brakes 🤔😳 , like I said I don’t take any car to any shop...unbelievable ! That was a awesome find.. nice job bro” I will keep that one in mind...thanks
Its the first time i see this problem but it was a valuable lesson for next time.
I will remember that next time i want buy Nissan always buy American 😆 thank you buddy for that video that was very attenting
Ive never seen seen this problem before. Another reason to make me regret buying a nissan
I saw that on a Chevy Colorado
Thats interesting! Now i know what to look for if i ever come across this problem again
As bad as nissans are now I would buy one over any American car
I'd always choose Japanese over American lol
Omg 😱🤯🤯. I was working on my sis 08 Nissan Sentra. I did a motor blower job. After patching everything up my brakes were stiff and brakes kept locking up. I ended up replacing two calipers and all four brake hoses. Didn't fix the problem. I was so frustrated i took it to a shop to get diagnosed. They said brake booster and master cylinder is bad and leaking fluid. I was like ????? No way everything was fine up until I did the motor blower job.. i took the car home and tested the brake booster. It was fine, and vacuum and all. No leaks either. Stupid shop tried to rip me off. So Car sat for a month and I was so upset with myself because my sister needs her car and i just couldn't figure out the problem. Then I see this video, I tried. what do you fuckin know!!!!? It worked! I adjusted the electrical switch that connects to the brake pedal how you said to in the video. Now the brakes work like normal. Thank you so much. Seriously. Sucks I wasted all that money when thier was no need.
Wow that sucks! I feel your pain. Just like in the video. You have to think logically with cars. It worked fine before you did a certain job and sure one thing can go bad out of nowhere but it's highly unlikely or impossible for so many parts to go bad at once. I'm glad the video helped you.
People mess with the brake switch cause it's a push start ignition. Altimas were known for a no crank cause of a bad brake switch... but when they reinstall them they shove them all the way in lol
Thats interesting.never thought of that
I’m replaced that sensor today and the front breaks locked up after driving few Miles ,I thought it’s my call overs I replaced them too and it locked again so now I’m going to check on this sensor hopefully it just need adjustment as you mentioned
Before i watched this video , i replaced the master Cylinder, the abs module , i replaced the break hoses, i still have the problem but after watching this i realize the problem was on my break light switch.
Sorry to hear that
Also in my Nissan Armada
Isn't ABS supposed to stop this problem?
I tired everything calipers rotors hoses.... What fixed my problem is I bought a 50$ scan tool cleared all my codes then before driving I turn traction control off !. My wheel speed sensors must be bad so it tells ECU I'm slipping and locks / drags wheels with the abs system to point of smoke. Scan tool and traction control off helped my brake stick problem.
I jave the same problem. With my maxima o will try this
Good. Check the brake and cruise control switches
Hose's! Really dude, Hose's lol! Can't believe you said that lol.😏🙄
I'm not sure I follow...
Im all about American cars the reason why my grandfather work for GM for 30 years
How are those switches adjusted? The clumsy AAA dude must've kicked them out of whack? That's my guess.
They twist and lock in place. Counter turn unlocks then and you can adjust the dept, then once you have there where you want them you turn it clockwise to lock it in place.
I did this to my 2012 Nissan Altima Coupe and it freed them for a second. Once I moved the car and came to a stop everything locked back up again. At first I thought it had something to do with my parking brake because I used it the day before and the next everything was locked up. After watching this video though, I adjusted my switches pretty close to where you have those and it moved and then locked back up. So now I’m confused, aggravated, and just want to sell it. Any ideas on what I could do to fix my issue?
If the front brakes are locking up at the same time then it's definitely the cruise control / brake switch. Try adjusting them into different positions
@@themechanic6117 I read some threads on people having the same issues and you sir are correct. It has something to do with the adjustment of the switches. Thank you for making this video. I now know the issue with my car.
More proof all cars are just designed to be recycled every 4 years and not maintained. Who would design something like this?
Yeah it seems like a dumb idea and frankly a safety issue
$200 for this repair?
Ha! I wish
@@themechanic6117
It should be close. If not you are cutting yourself short. Let someone else figure out what you did. Someone else would have replaced all the calipers and still not fixed it. Let them take it to a stealership and see what they charge
For the time i had invested in it i feel like i should have charged $200 but its hard to. Tell someone the price is $200 and then explaining what i did to fix it. People dont look at the time i invested they ask why im charging $200 to ajust a switch that only takes minutes
@@themechanic6117
Just saying this, your knowledge is worth something just like any industry would charge. Do you think any professional business would say. “Ehh it was just a relay that was stuck on. That will be $15”
Tell that to a Doctor that you spend 7 minutes in the office for him to tell you that you have a 24 hour virus. I am not paying your $467 office visit because I was only in your office for 7 minutes and you only said it was a virus.
I am saying all this to say that I work on people’s cars for free and have been told I have done the best job out of all the shops they take them to. And I am a basic DIYer
I completely understand and i agree with you. When i first started doing this i was really selling myself short. Those days are over and i feel like i charge appropriately for the most part. For this job i charged $120 because theyre good customers of mine. Anyone else i would have charged about $150 . its also important to not screw people over with prices because they'll never come back. I agree with you though. The longer i do this i realize my worth even more.