📛 Become a channel member: ruclips.net/user/thomaseislphotographyjoin ☕ Donate a coffee to support this channel: ko-fi.com/thomaseislphotography ❓📩 Direct support: thomaseisl.photography/shop/p/support-ticket
Thanks for the feedback Steve! I intended on showing it, however, my Sony ZV-1 wouldn't have survived the weather... In any case, in my previous video about the OM-1's dynamic range, you can see the spot metering method in practice, hope this helps!
Very useful video Thomas. Finding the right exposure value for snow scenes is always challenging. Your tip about the flat jpeg profile makes a lot of sense. Those of us who always shoot raw tend to forget how important that jpeg preview can be to the production of the final raw file.
Yes, it is indeed quite challenging to get a good exposure without clipping anything or underexposing the whole scene. It is a tricky balance. I'm also always recording a RAW-file for post production. I would not recommend shooting JPG only. Thanks for the kind comment and I'm glad that you found the video useful!
Thanks for your many M43 tutorials. This one is great, too. But, I am not totally convinced about your comparison of your spot metering strategy and ETTR. ETTR may be less convenient for PP but it provides optimal noise reduction in the darks. Your spot metering approach guarantees an optimal dynamic range, but it only addresses the noise level in passing. Consider example image with just middle grey and very dark tonal values. Your approach exposes correctly for the middle grey and the blacks but the blacks may be quite noisy. ETTR will add exposure to both the middle greys and the blacks. But because the response of the sensor is nearly linear you must reduce the brightness in post. An extra step but the blacks will have lower noise than the spot metering approach.
Hello Thomas, Jose from Puerto Rico. I enjoyed this video very much. It would be nice though if you can illustrate this technique in a live view scenario, showing what you actually see in your viewfinder and going about the changes as you perform them. I understand the concept you're explaining, but as a photographer who is a visual learner, I like to see a live demonstration of the concept. I've seen this done with one of those external small monitors (forgot the name of the gadget) hooked up to the hot shoe on top of the camera, giving us a view of what you're actually seeing as you compose the image and setting changes. Thanks again for your wonderful video.
Hey Jose - always a pleasure to hear from you! Yes, I know exactly what you mean. To be honest, I intended exactly that, but it was snowing so hard that I could not use the equipment. I was forced to record everything with my weather sealed OM-1, that is why you don't even see me with the camera in my hands. Sorry about that :-( Hope to see you for the next video - it is a very in-depth one and I would love to hear your opinion on it. Best wishes from Vienna!
So, on Fujifilm cameras… unless shooting pure f-log, then choose the Eterna profile as this is the flattest profile on Fuji, and very easy to color grade in post
Hey, Thomas have you a degree in Physics? The way you explain everything make me wonder about it. To compress everything in one word = FANTASTIC X 10 to the power of 6 ! Congrats Thomas !
Noted! I will definitely do that - I thought that they would not be of great interest, so it is very cool to hear that it is the other way round. Thank you very much for the feedback!
Hello there and thanks for asking - I think this video might be very helpful to address your question: ruclips.net/video/rYRa9zLOgXs/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE Let me know if this helped!
Hi Tomas, very good hint. My snow images are all grey and I have a lot of work in my postprocessing. But I am not sure whether I understood your video correctly. You set the picture mode to "mute", and what do you set to -2, please? Or do you set the exposure correction to +2 or +3? In my experience +3 the snow does not have a structure anymore.
Great to hear! So it was +3 EV - but only if you are processing your images with some RAW converters like Silkypix. If you use OM Workspace, +3 EV is too much, as you've said correctly. Then, I would not go higher than +2.5 to be on the safe side. Metering mode is Spot.
Awesome, great to hear Richard! You will like this camera a lot, I'm sure! Regarding the shadows: I'd say they then should be around -1 to -2, but that really depends on the lighting of the scene. If you want to make sure that the snow shows more structure, just expose it to +2.7 to +2.3 (aka Spot Highlight Metering). Hope this helped and you will share your first images with the OM-1 soon! Cheers, Thomas
Thank you for the video, Thomas! I find manual mode a bit dangerous for fast-paced shooting on the go when your subjects and lighting changes all the time, so I just set my camera to show me the "blinkies", as well as the histogram, and if I get them in any important parts of my scene, I just dial the exposure back with the front wheel set to control exposure compensation. On an overcast winter day, I do the opposite and rotate the wheel until I get the blinkies in the snow and then dial it back a notch. This seems to be fast and keeps the exposure more or less correct. Are there any downsides to this approach?
Thanks for sharing! No, I'd say that is a very reasonable thing to do. Depending on the White Balance setting, you might get a different amount of headroom in the highlights, but that is about it.
Fairly sure that my internal exposure meter can guess that the intro for this video, was shot using exposure compensation of around plus 1 or 1.3 stops (guessing 1.0 since the subject - is Dark - and you male up around 20% of the frame)
@@ThomasEisl.Photography well, in all modesty - I have somewhere around 120k photos on my harddrives currently - so been practicing exposure estimation for quite a while :)
Hey Ivan! I always use this mode when I want the preview to match the RAW file as close as possible. It is almost like viewing a digital negative. Apart from that, when shooting client work where I have to show the client the Backscreen from time to time, I avoid doing that as the images can look a bit dull in this mode. Hope this helps!
True, it was cold haha. Zebras are only available in video mode, the equivalent in the photo world is the Highlight & Shadow display - just enable it on one of the available information displays! Everything overexposed is displayed orange. Best, Thomas
Agreed! In the next video, I will talk about dynamic range, bit depth and output dynamic range in great detail. I think there are a lot of misconceptions around. Thanks for sharing, always love to read from you!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Excellent! I’ll be watching. I forgot to mention that I liked that very first photo you showed the best. That gold color was interesting though I know you were out for B&W.
hi thomas, I like to shoot with ETTR and I fully agree that my post-processing is more challenging. therefore, I have developed several presets in lightroom and photoshop which I use and adapt over years now and these presets allow me to speed up my post-processing.
Hello Klaus! Thank you very much for sharing your experiences. I am not against ETTR, it is a very useful technique! I'd be interested to hear learn more about your presets. In any case, one of my next videos will tackle HDR photography with the OM-1. Hope to see you then, I think it would be of interest to you 📸
Thank you! It is the OM System Art Filter "Grainy Film II" - I really like this one. I did set it in OM Workspace, as I shot in muted to avoid any clipping.
i am not clear when you say you put the whites in plus 3 ev range. Isn't that exposing to the right? i haven't used. spot metering yet so maybe that is what you mean!
Hey Pam, thanks for asking! In this case, the result is very similar to ETTR, you are right. If you are shooting a scene that has no whites, ETTR can lead to grossly overexposed shots which you have to bring down in post. It can be quite tedious. In one of my previous videos, you can see the spot metering method in practice - OM-1 Dynamic Range. Hope this helps, and thanks for the comment!
Ah bless, you look like you're freezing while making that, but there's something nice about being out in the snow despite the cold, everything seems so soft and clean, the tranquility is unmatched, especially for a photographer. Looks like Vienna has a lot of beautiful areas to photograph, there's a classic Romanticism to it rather than everything making way for modern or industrial projects. So many historical landscapes beauty spots in the UK have been ruined by modernisation.
Hey Marcus! Yes, you are right. There are some magical spots in Vienna. However, many areas in Austria suffer from the same issues you have noted in your comment. Vienna is a little bit different, though. There is more awareness for protecting the classic appearance of the city. That is fortunate! Thanks for the comment, Marcus - hope you are doing alright and capturing some great scenes. I've seen that the weather is quite sunny over there :-)
📛 Become a channel member:
ruclips.net/user/thomaseislphotographyjoin
☕ Donate a coffee to support this channel:
ko-fi.com/thomaseislphotography
❓📩 Direct support:
thomaseisl.photography/shop/p/support-ticket
Very interesting video, would love to see you meter a scene and add your plus EV. I get a bit confused trying to figure this out. Well done!
Thanks for the feedback Steve! I intended on showing it, however, my Sony ZV-1 wouldn't have survived the weather...
In any case, in my previous video about the OM-1's dynamic range, you can see the spot metering method in practice, hope this helps!
Another very educational video as always. Thank you my friend!
Awesome, that's great to hear! Thank you for the comment!
Very useful video Thomas. Finding the right exposure value for snow scenes is always challenging. Your tip about the flat jpeg profile makes a lot of sense. Those of us who always shoot raw tend to forget how important that jpeg preview can be to the production of the final raw file.
Yes, it is indeed quite challenging to get a good exposure without clipping anything or underexposing the whole scene. It is a tricky balance.
I'm also always recording a RAW-file for post production. I would not recommend shooting JPG only.
Thanks for the kind comment and I'm glad that you found the video useful!
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your support, that is amazing!
of course your film is always intersting and inspiring👍👍👍
Glad to hear that! Thank you!
Excellent as always.
Thank you very much David! Much appreciated, really!
Thanks, Thomas. You always provide excellent photography tips. I have had my OM-1 for one month and am still learning.
Thank you for the kind comment, I'm glad to hear that!
And yes, the OM-1 is a complex, but also rewarding camera.
As always very useful video. Thanks Thomas
My pleasure!
It seems you really enjoy the camera!!!! That is great.
Yes, you are right - I'm shooting a lot with it. I'm very happy with its performance.
Thanks for your many M43 tutorials. This one is great, too. But, I am not totally convinced about your comparison of your spot metering strategy and ETTR. ETTR may be less convenient for PP but it provides optimal noise reduction in the darks. Your spot metering approach guarantees an optimal dynamic range, but it only addresses the noise level in passing. Consider example image with just middle grey and very dark tonal values. Your approach exposes correctly for the middle grey and the blacks but the blacks may be quite noisy. ETTR will add exposure to both the middle greys and the blacks. But because the response of the sensor is nearly linear you must reduce the brightness in post. An extra step but the blacks will have lower noise than the spot metering approach.
Very well explained and so clear to understand. Your work is always interesting and reflects your understanding of technique. 🙏🏻
Thank you Gerry! You are giving me way too much credit. Thank you Sir!
thank you, very helpful!
Glad to hear! Thanks!
Another superb video thanks! You really are the "go to" for photography tips, training and mastering the OM-1.
Awesome, that is so great to hear! Thank you very much!
most helpful thank you
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment!
Thank you!! A wonderful park...know it well...even though we live in Arizona..any chance we get to spend time in Vienna is time very well spent....
Ah, that is great to hear - thanks for the nice comment and best wishes to you!
Hello Thomas, Jose from Puerto Rico. I enjoyed this video very much. It would be nice though if you can illustrate this technique in a live view scenario, showing what you actually see in your viewfinder and going about the changes as you perform them. I understand the concept you're explaining, but as a photographer who is a visual learner, I like to see a live demonstration of the concept. I've seen this done with one of those external small monitors (forgot the name of the gadget) hooked up to the hot shoe on top of the camera, giving us a view of what you're actually seeing as you compose the image and setting changes. Thanks again for your wonderful video.
Hey Jose - always a pleasure to hear from you!
Yes, I know exactly what you mean. To be honest, I intended exactly that, but it was snowing so hard that I could not use the equipment. I was forced to record everything with my weather sealed OM-1, that is why you don't even see me with the camera in my hands. Sorry about that :-(
Hope to see you for the next video - it is a very in-depth one and I would love to hear your opinion on it.
Best wishes from Vienna!
All depends on white dominance. Or old school grey card. Other option in overexpose about 1.5 to 2 stops. Grey card is best with a spot meter.
Absolutely!
Interesting. Should love your take on ETTR. I never thought it helps at all. Just adds more work. My OM-1 exposure it’s always what I’m looking for.
Ah, great to read that!
So, on Fujifilm cameras… unless shooting pure f-log, then choose the Eterna profile as this is the flattest profile on Fuji, and very easy to color grade in post
Yes, I guess so! unfortunately I have no Fujifilm cam at the moment, but I think it was Eterna that was the "flattest" of them all!
Hey, Thomas have you a degree in Physics? The way you explain everything make me wonder about it. To compress everything in one word = FANTASTIC X 10 to the power of 6 ! Congrats Thomas !
Oh wow! Thanks for the fantastic feedback - however, I do not have such a degree. Glad that you appreciate my "style"!
Have a great weekend, Vedran!
Disappointed you weren't wearing your suit and tie in the snow. 😁
Haha, next time 😂
More pictures please. Your videos would benefit from it. I like the technical side of the video, but the images are just great!
Noted! I will definitely do that - I thought that they would not be of great interest, so it is very cool to hear that it is the other way round. Thank you very much for the feedback!
Hello Thomas, in case scenes médium contrast how do you expoxe for dont have modiffy it in posproduction? Sorry my english
Hello there and thanks for asking - I think this video might be very helpful to address your question:
ruclips.net/video/rYRa9zLOgXs/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
Let me know if this helped!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography thanks
Hi Tomas, very good hint. My snow images are all grey and I have a lot of work in my postprocessing. But I am not sure whether I understood your video correctly. You set the picture mode to "mute", and what do you set to -2, please? Or do you set the exposure correction to +2 or +3? In my experience +3 the snow does not have a structure anymore.
Great to hear! So it was +3 EV - but only if you are processing your images with some RAW converters like Silkypix. If you use OM Workspace, +3 EV is too much, as you've said correctly. Then, I would not go higher than +2.5 to be on the safe side. Metering mode is Spot.
Beautiful images. What size prints will they make?
Hey Ben! Thank you very much - I will actually print 4 of them 20x30. I'm quite happy with the quality 😄
@@ThomasEisl.Photography
Thank you for your reply. Are the dimensions in cm or inches?
Ah, sorry - in cm!
Am I getting this right? Just set up camera to M, spot metering, and contrast -2?
Yes! And you have to place the spot meter correctly. Also, if you want to be on the safe side, apply less exposure compensation. Best, Thomas
Thank you for an excellent video. My new OM 1 arrives today. If the snow is +3 are the shadows about -1? I so appreciate your comments about ETTR.
Awesome, great to hear Richard! You will like this camera a lot, I'm sure!
Regarding the shadows: I'd say they then should be around -1 to -2, but that really depends on the lighting of the scene. If you want to make sure that the snow shows more structure, just expose it to +2.7 to +2.3 (aka Spot Highlight Metering).
Hope this helped and you will share your first images with the OM-1 soon! Cheers, Thomas
Thank you for the video, Thomas! I find manual mode a bit dangerous for fast-paced shooting on the go when your subjects and lighting changes all the time, so I just set my camera to show me the "blinkies", as well as the histogram, and if I get them in any important parts of my scene, I just dial the exposure back with the front wheel set to control exposure compensation. On an overcast winter day, I do the opposite and rotate the wheel until I get the blinkies in the snow and then dial it back a notch. This seems to be fast and keeps the exposure more or less correct. Are there any downsides to this approach?
Thanks for sharing!
No, I'd say that is a very reasonable thing to do. Depending on the White Balance setting, you might get a different amount of headroom in the highlights, but that is about it.
Fairly sure that my internal exposure meter can guess that the intro for this video, was shot using exposure compensation of around plus 1 or 1.3 stops (guessing 1.0 since the subject - is Dark - and you male up around 20% of the frame)
hehe - it seems your internal exp meter is better than most in-camera exp meters
You are spot on!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography well, in all modesty - I have somewhere around 120k photos on my harddrives currently - so been practicing exposure estimation for quite a while :)
Hello Thomas, do you use picture mode mute and -2 contrast allways or only With snow? Thanks
Hey Ivan! I always use this mode when I want the preview to match the RAW file as close as possible. It is almost like viewing a digital negative. Apart from that, when shooting client work where I have to show the client the Backscreen from time to time, I avoid doing that as the images can look a bit dull in this mode. Hope this helps!
Hello my friend question you look cold there, here is my question can we use zebra in phot mode
True, it was cold haha. Zebras are only available in video mode, the equivalent in the photo world is the Highlight & Shadow display - just enable it on one of the available information displays! Everything overexposed is displayed orange.
Best, Thomas
My Nikon has a flat picture setting that does pretty much the same thing. Most people don’t realize they are looking at a jpg on the camera.
Agreed! In the next video, I will talk about dynamic range, bit depth and output dynamic range in great detail. I think there are a lot of misconceptions around. Thanks for sharing, always love to read from you!
@@ThomasEisl.Photography Excellent! I’ll be watching. I forgot to mention that I liked that very first photo you showed the best. That gold color was interesting though I know you were out for B&W.
Thanks! Also thanks for the feedback - yes, the statue in gold with the snow, I liked that a lot as well
hi thomas, I like to shoot with ETTR and I fully agree that my post-processing is more challenging. therefore, I have developed several presets in lightroom and photoshop which I use and adapt over years now and these presets allow me to speed up my post-processing.
Hello Klaus! Thank you very much for sharing your experiences. I am not against ETTR, it is a very useful technique! I'd be interested to hear learn more about your presets. In any case, one of my next videos will tackle HDR photography with the OM-1. Hope to see you then, I think it would be of interest to you 📸
I like the pictures.Did you shoot in bw mode or convert to bw in post-processing?
Thank you!
It is the OM System Art Filter "Grainy Film II" - I really like this one. I did set it in OM Workspace, as I shot in muted to avoid any clipping.
I just use the zebra function on the SONY camera and point the spot meter to a middle grey area.
That is also a great way to do it!
i am not clear when you say you put the whites in plus 3 ev range. Isn't that exposing to the right? i haven't used. spot metering yet so maybe that is what you mean!
Hey Pam, thanks for asking! In this case, the result is very similar to ETTR, you are right. If you are shooting a scene that has no whites, ETTR can lead to grossly overexposed shots which you have to bring down in post. It can be quite tedious. In one of my previous videos, you can see the spot metering method in practice - OM-1 Dynamic Range. Hope this helps, and thanks for the comment!
The noise is the main probleim
Hm, I'm not quite sure what you are referring to, unfortunately.
Ah bless, you look like you're freezing while making that, but there's something nice about being out in the snow despite the cold, everything seems so soft and clean, the tranquility is unmatched, especially for a photographer. Looks like Vienna has a lot of beautiful areas to photograph, there's a classic Romanticism to it rather than everything making way for modern or industrial projects. So many historical landscapes beauty spots in the UK have been ruined by modernisation.
Hey Marcus!
Yes, you are right. There are some magical spots in Vienna. However, many areas in Austria suffer from the same issues you have noted in your comment. Vienna is a little bit different, though. There is more awareness for protecting the classic appearance of the city. That is fortunate!
Thanks for the comment, Marcus - hope you are doing alright and capturing some great scenes. I've seen that the weather is quite sunny over there :-)