Thank you. I really appreciate the comment. I had 2 cameras recording at the same time to try and get the best angles as it was a tight space. Hope this video helped you and others. If there are any other question leave a comment and I will try and answer as best as possible. Thanks again for this comment as it motivates me to make more videos.
A big thank you for this excellent "video service manual". Just finished helping a buddy do this on his '09 Gallant with 145K miles, and although it took us nearly 7 hours, everything went very smoothly thanks to your detailed instructions (we could have shaved 2 hrs off that if we had some powered impact tools and didn't have to replace the water pump, which was a royal PIA). We didn't remove the crank sprocket; instead, we gained enough clearance to slide off the secondary belt by removing the crank sensor (again, no impact tools to deal with that bolt). Biggest surprise? While the balance belt was indeed loose (like someone else mentioned), both it and the main timing belt looked like they could go another 60K miles without drama. They literally had almost no visible wear after 145K! Again, thanks for taking the time to create such a polished video!
Thank you. I appreciate the kind words and it is so awesome to hear the video helped out. I'm glad it was useful. Again thank you for your time in watching the video.
you had 145k miles on that belt with no issues??? Im currently on 96k miles and people are telling me i need to replace it even though there seems no cracks. 08 eclipse
@@cookiecake8448 What most don't realize is that the tensioners are as big a failure point in the system as the belt itself, sometimes more. Like in our case, the belts can be in good condition but very loose, which is when you're on borrowed time.
@@cookiecake8448 Last reply, as I'm not qualified to advise you on this -- just a shadetree mechanic who's done exactly ONE of these. That said, as this excellent video points out (did you watch, BTW??), the belt that gets loose and fails is the secondary (balance shaft) belt, NOT the primary. On this engine, one can't access that belt to check tension without tearing the engine apart, so there's no way to know its status otherwise.
Excellent how to, you cover everything so well and I followed your steps and had no problems working on a 2008 Lancer. The original balance belt was a bit loose too, I guess its because its a manual tensioner for that one so it never takes up as the belt wears/stretches. Thanks again mate.
@@modsobsessedAustralia. Definitely a 4g69 (on compliance plate as well). Maybe its to do with our country or the manufacture/compliance build date on the particular car I worked on. It was a wagon btw. Top Video :)
Hey Mate, Just a follow up, yeah I had a look at the car, its an 07 manufactured date lancer but has a 08 Australia compliance plate. So your right on that mate - technically its an 07 just to clear it up and for anyone else reading this.
This is too friggin' good. Gives me the confidence to do this on my '06 this winter while I hides her away from the salt. Cheers from Newfoundland buddy.
I love hearing stuff like this. Thank you! Take your time with it and mark and label if you think you won't remember where it goes back. And if there are any question don't be afraid to ask. Cheers back from Ontario.
Pls i have been issued with my mitsubishi outlander 2005 timing belt cutting or pealing. In two weeks I have changed the timing belt more than 4 times and two days ago I changed the low pulley and I fixed another belt in. Hoping for it to work out for better this time. Please what can really be the issue of timing belt cutting or pealing sometimes?. Thanks
Sorry to hear. I quite can't tell you exactly what the problem is without actually inspecting it. But the belt must rubbing on something or one of the pulleys must have some play causing it to wobble and misalign timing belt.
Thanks for your reply. I'm changing all the rolling and adjustable things on the timing belt side today, including tensioner, and let's see if that will stop the timing belt cutting issues
👍👍👍 Thank you thank you that had to be one of the best online videos I have ever seen I've done many of those myself and the best thing was my hands didn't get greasy while I watched to do it you're just a good job thank you very much I would love to have you work on my vehicles cause you look like you're conscientious thank you sir
What about the front balance shaft that is behind the oil pump? How you are sure that it's at the right position? Not sure only aligning to the oil pump wheel is enough.
That's a good question. I forgot to mention it in the video as I really didn't move the gear. A easy way to tell if the front balance shaft is in the right position is when you align the oil pump gear to the timing mark, then slightly rotate it left or right the mark on the gear will move towards the timing mark on the engine. If the balance shaft is in the wrong position when you slightly rotate it left or right the mark on the gear will move away from the timing mark on the engine. Another way to tell if its in the right position is to use the sight hole in the front of the block. If you remove the bolt at the front of the engine there is a sight hole where you can put a screw driver in. If you line up the gear to the mark and put your screw driver in the hole and it goes most of the way in then it's in the right position, but if the screw driver stops short then its in the wrong position and you will have to rotate the gear one more time. I hope this helps and understandable. I have a spare 4g69 block in my garage and will try and get a video up to explain it visually then leave a link in the description of the video or edit in a link in the video. Appreciate the good question.
@@modsobsessed Yea, that's important one. I can tell you what happens if it's put the wrong way. My mechanic did it and I drove 10k km this way. There was noticeable vibrations and later on this lead to the front balance shaft bearing was out of its position, clogging the oil path which resulted in high oil pressure on oil pump, then the pump released that pressure by activating the valve inside (steel ball compressed by spring). In result the oil pressure bulb was blinking at idle, because pump reduced the oil pressure too much. To wrap up, one can seriously damage his engine if this balance shaft is not aligned properly.
Dude im a go step by step teeth on my belt are missing. Didn't make it 2 mins from home. Got it. Home broke it down and. Well thank god for u bro I mean that I can do brakes and oil changes. Control arms. . build a house. And with. U doing that video bro thank you.
You are correct. It's something I forgot to mention in the video. My car is low mileage so I just inspected it and it wasn't leaking or binding so decided to leave it. But yes doing the water pump is a good idea to replace when doing a timing belt.
Not necessarily. If you're 100% confident that the timing marks are bang on. I crank it just to make sure the timing is right and that all the marks line up. Just easier to check before installing everything back on. Then dealing with it might being slightly off and having vibration, misfires or even valve damage if timing is really off.
I got it on amazon long time ago maybe back in 2010 for about $60. It was actually a cold air intake and there was a second pipe to it that went down and the filter sat behind the fog light area.
That is a good point. If you're paying someone to do your timing belt I would say get the water pump done to save on paying labour in the long run since it's over lapping time. When I was replacing the timing belt I inspected the water pump and it wasn't leaking or making noise so I left it. I would suggest replacing the water pump if you don't want to get in there again. I can do these timing belts pretty quickly that if the water pump does leak/make noise it won't take me long to do it.
I got from www.rtmracing.com but they are now closing down so they are selling off whatever stock is left. But pretty sure you can get it on amazon. Look up mitsubishi tensioner tool.
Great video!!! I’m curious about a few things I’m working on my daughters outlander and I’m not sure what the problems are with it is there a way I can talk to you?
Nice video where did you find that red handled wrench you use to pretension the tensioner pully with? all i can find is the ones that connect to a ratchet.
Thanks! To be honest I can't remember where I got that tool from. It was so long ago when I got it but it wasn't online. But if you search "mitsubishi timing belt tensioner spanner wrench" it will come up.
@@f4f471 ah man that is amazing. Thank you so much. I have a hard time getting to make and edit these videos. Words like this inspire me to keep going.
Год назад
Thanks for this, appreciate the quality commentary. Is there any risk in jacking the engine up using the oil pan? Isnt it too fragile?
Depending where on the oil pan you jack it from. Never use the jack on it's own always, put a piece of wood like a 2x4 that can go across from edge to edge of the oil pan and as close as possible to the corner, the bends are the strongest part of the pan. BUT if your oil pan is badly rusted like mine was (the oil in the pan was penetrating through) then it will crack the rust and cause a leak. Hence why I have a video replacing my oil pan. 😏
@@modsobsessed one more question... Is it drivable till I get it fixed 🤔??? Just curious, cause I may have to take it to a Friend's garage 45 mins away... or should I just rent a car dolly???
@@TimEFPV These cars have 2 balance shafts the back one is spun using that belt and the the front one is being spun by the oil pump. So these shafts counter balanced each other. So you will be having one spinning and the other one not spinning throwing off the balance which will cause vibrations and possible damage if driven to long like that. But I think it would be ok to drive it to your friend's garage but not ok to be driving it like that for months.
Not bad for your demo, but I feel you when it comes in hard doing a mechanical in narrow space at engine front right side, since this engine is in transverse position but is hard as beginner whom this undergo timing belt replacement is too much time to consume, and thank you a lot for effort to upload this of informative and knowlegable videos thank you master watching your video from philippines...
Hi Mate. What happens if, in this engine 4g69 ( Lanser SE 2.5 ch/cs ), the timing belt gets broken while the car is running? Will the valves get bent in all cases?
I would say most likely yes as it is a interference engine. If the car was just idling when it broke you might be lucky. I would try installing a new belt and do a compression and leaking down test then go from there.
It's originally a cold air intake. I just took off the bottom half of the intake pipe because it's winter here. I got this cold air intake 8 years ago from Amazon for $60. But just took a look on there now and can't find it anymore.
Took me about 3 hours for this video. That's because of setting up the cameras and doing retakes for messing up the shot. Would usually take me about 1h30m doing it on the floor (not using a hoist). If its your first time doing it and on the floor (not using a hoist) I would say 3-5hours depending on your skill level.
Question, I recently purchased a 2007 Galant with the 4G69 engine. The timing belt was done about 20,000 miles ago and the car has a pretty heavy vibration at idle. Is it possible that they timed the oil pump incorrectly?
@@Afrattzz1Your timing belt was done 20,000miles ago and you're getting vibration now? If it was installed incorrectly you would have felt it right away.
Shoot buddy for sure it's off! My 06 outlander I can't even feel the engine running at idle these things are so smooth (when the balance shafts are in time 😂)@@Afrattzz1
I know what you mean. There used to be quite a few back in the day, but now they are scares. And when I see them they are pretty badly rusted here in Toronto, Canada. But did find a local CS3 chassis club that have pretty clean ones.
@@modsobsessed their is maybe like 2 of them around (rally sports this year), an oz rally in yellow and one person has them wagon. But they are just older 45 year olds daily driving them. But they look like new. I have 120k miles on mine. TPS sensor is throwing code now im on limp mode. Gotta figure how to fix it tomorrow.
After watching this video, I've decided not to attempt this 😁 At the same time I don't trust any mechanics in my area to do it correctly. Major shortage of good mechanics in Melbourne, Australia.
Thanks for watching the video. But sorry to hear that the video discouraged you from doing this job. Was the video not detailed enough, was it hard to follow? Let me know your feed back it will help me create better content.
@@modsobsessed actually this is probably the best tutorial/camera work I've seen. It's more the amount of parts and bolts to remove and keep track of, and reassembly that worries me.
Man!! that was some great camera angles .... thanks for taking the time to do that!
Thanks I really tried to get as many angles as possible.
you deserve waaaaay more subscribers! Thank you so much for the work, effort, and consideration to the viewers
Thank you!
really high quality camera work, editing and time stamped steps. awesome video, hope the channel grows fast 👍
Thank you. I really appreciate the comment. I had 2 cameras recording at the same time to try and get the best angles as it was a tight space. Hope this video helped you and others. If there are any other question leave a comment and I will try and answer as best as possible. Thanks again for this comment as it motivates me to make more videos.
A big thank you for this excellent "video service manual". Just finished helping a buddy do this on his '09 Gallant with 145K miles, and although it took us nearly 7 hours, everything went very smoothly thanks to your detailed instructions (we could have shaved 2 hrs off that if we had some powered impact tools and didn't have to replace the water pump, which was a royal PIA). We didn't remove the crank sprocket; instead, we gained enough clearance to slide off the secondary belt by removing the crank sensor (again, no impact tools to deal with that bolt). Biggest surprise? While the balance belt was indeed loose (like someone else mentioned), both it and the main timing belt looked like they could go another 60K miles without drama. They literally had almost no visible wear after 145K! Again, thanks for taking the time to create such a polished video!
Thank you. I appreciate the kind words and it is so awesome to hear the video helped out. I'm glad it was useful.
Again thank you for your time in watching the video.
you had 145k miles on that belt with no issues??? Im currently on 96k miles and people are telling me i need to replace it even though there seems no cracks. 08 eclipse
@@cookiecake8448 What most don't realize is that the tensioners are as big a failure point in the system as the belt itself, sometimes more. Like in our case, the belts can be in good condition but very loose, which is when you're on borrowed time.
@@mphillips7738 belt is tight, no signs of cracks, and seems thick. Can keep it for longer? 2008 eclipse 96k miles
@@cookiecake8448 Last reply, as I'm not qualified to advise you on this -- just a shadetree mechanic who's done exactly ONE of these. That said, as this excellent video points out (did you watch, BTW??), the belt that gets loose and fails is the secondary (balance shaft) belt, NOT the primary. On this engine, one can't access that belt to check tension without tearing the engine apart, so there's no way to know its status otherwise.
After recently getting a Lancer with this motor i will appreciate this vid when the time comes, thankyou for the upload !
No problem. Hope this helps. Leave a comment if there is something I'm missing or if you have any other questions.
Thanks for watching.
Excellent how to, you cover everything so well and I followed your steps and had no problems working on a 2008 Lancer. The original balance belt was a bit loose too, I guess its because its a manual tensioner for that one so it never takes up as the belt wears/stretches. Thanks again mate.
Where are you from? Because a 2008 Lancer in Canada is a next generation Lancer with a 4b11 engine that use a timing chain.
@@modsobsessedAustralia. Definitely a 4g69 (on compliance plate as well). Maybe its to do with our country or the manufacture/compliance build date on the particular car I worked on. It was a wagon btw. Top Video :)
Hey Mate, Just a follow up, yeah I had a look at the car, its an 07 manufactured date lancer but has a 08 Australia compliance plate. So your right on that mate - technically its an 07 just to clear it up and for anyone else reading this.
This is too friggin' good. Gives me the confidence to do this on my '06 this winter while I hides her away from the salt. Cheers from Newfoundland buddy.
I love hearing stuff like this. Thank you! Take your time with it and mark and label if you think you won't remember where it goes back. And if there are any question don't be afraid to ask. Cheers back from Ontario.
@@modsobsessed Oh don't you worry... I'll go through a whole box of freezer bags for bolts no doubt.. LOL. Will do!
your video saved me 700$ you def deserve way more followers
Keep up the great work and posting videos!👍🏻
I subscribed. Thank you 🙏🏻
Awesome! Thank you for the support. I have more content just trying to find the time to get the editing done.
@@modsobsessed You’re very welcome brother keep it going on
當然可以!以下是翻譯:
This is the most detailed explanation video I have ever seen, thank you very much
Thank you
Thats a nice eclipse over there! Great video man!
Giraffes wear helmets?
Meh, it's alright.
how did you get the timing bolt off my is sticking? any ideas
Pls i have been issued with my mitsubishi outlander 2005 timing belt cutting or pealing. In two weeks I have changed the timing belt more than 4 times and two days ago I changed the low pulley and I fixed another belt in. Hoping for it to work out for better this time. Please what can really be the issue of timing belt cutting or pealing sometimes?. Thanks
Sorry to hear. I quite can't tell you exactly what the problem is without actually inspecting it. But the belt must rubbing on something or one of the pulleys must have some play causing it to wobble and misalign timing belt.
Thanks for your reply. I'm changing all the rolling and adjustable things on the timing belt side today, including tensioner, and let's see if that will stop the timing belt cutting issues
Hat's off to u for this video
Thank you
👍👍👍 Thank you thank you that had to be one of the best online videos I have ever seen I've done many of those myself and the best thing was my hands didn't get greasy while I watched to do it you're just a good job thank you very much I would love to have you work on my vehicles cause you look like you're conscientious thank you sir
Oh no problem. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and that it was useful to you. I appreciate the awesome comments.
Thank you for the excellent video Sir🍻🍻🍻
What about the front balance shaft that is behind the oil pump? How you are sure that it's at the right position? Not sure only aligning to the oil pump wheel is enough.
That's a good question. I forgot to mention it in the video as I really didn't move the gear. A easy way to tell if the front balance shaft is in the right position is when you align the oil pump gear to the timing mark, then slightly rotate it left or right the mark on the gear will move towards the timing mark on the engine. If the balance shaft is in the wrong position when you slightly rotate it left or right the mark on the gear will move away from the timing mark on the engine. Another way to tell if its in the right position is to use the sight hole in the front of the block. If you remove the bolt at the front of the engine there is a sight hole where you can put a screw driver in. If you line up the gear to the mark and put your screw driver in the hole and it goes most of the way in then it's in the right position, but if the screw driver stops short then its in the wrong position and you will have to rotate the gear one more time.
I hope this helps and understandable. I have a spare 4g69 block in my garage and will try and get a video up to explain it visually then leave a link in the description of the video or edit in a link in the video.
Appreciate the good question.
@@modsobsessed Yea, that's important one. I can tell you what happens if it's put the wrong way. My mechanic did it and I drove 10k km this way. There was noticeable vibrations and later on this lead to the front balance shaft bearing was out of its position, clogging the oil path which resulted in high oil pressure on oil pump, then the pump released that pressure by activating the valve inside (steel ball compressed by spring). In result the oil pressure bulb was blinking at idle, because pump reduced the oil pressure too much. To wrap up, one can seriously damage his engine if this balance shaft is not aligned properly.
Dude im a go step by step teeth on my belt are missing. Didn't make it 2 mins from home. Got it. Home broke it down and. Well thank god for u bro I mean that I can do brakes and oil changes. Control arms. . build a house. And with. U doing that video bro thank you.
Thank you. It's awesome reading these comments. I'm glad videos like this help. Even if it helps one person it makes me happy.
Thanks man this is a huge help ✌️
No problem. If you have any questions leave a comment.
@@modsobsessed I do actually do you have the torque specs for the timing belt tensioners?
@@bleedingninjagsr4943 the auto tensioner torque spec is 24nm/18ft-lb.
@@modsobsessed thanks man
Always the best time to replace the water pump when changing the timing belt
You are correct. It's something I forgot to mention in the video. My car is low mileage so I just inspected it and it wasn't leaking or binding so decided to leave it. But yes doing the water pump is a good idea to replace when doing a timing belt.
Why do you have to rotate it 4 or 8 times after timing marks are matched?
At 12.00, why did you need to match up the timing mark, shouldn't it already be matched?
One important point was missed that im just finding out…oil pump can be off 180 degrees causing vibrations. Now i have to do this whole job again.
Hey so I didn't turn the crankshaft 6 times after installing the belt did I break something?
Not necessarily. If you're 100% confident that the timing marks are bang on. I crank it just to make sure the timing is right and that all the marks line up. Just easier to check before installing everything back on. Then dealing with it might being slightly off and having vibration, misfires or even valve damage if timing is really off.
How can you tell if the belt too tight? My belt broke
Great video, my 4g69 is twincharged.
Twin charged that's amazing! What engine management you using?
Excellent vidéos, j’ai complété le remplacement de mes trois courroies sur mon Éclipse spyder 2007 avec succes!! Merci
We’re did you get your cold air intake for this car
I got it on amazon long time ago maybe back in 2010 for about $60. It was actually a cold air intake and there was a second pipe to it that went down and the filter sat behind the fog light area.
what is the wrench size for the idler pulley ?
Sorry I forgot to say in the video. It's a 14mm bolt.
thank you !
Nice work. Thanks for the video. Was wondering why after all that... you did not replaced the water pump?
That is a good point. If you're paying someone to do your timing belt I would say get the water pump done to save on paying labour in the long run since it's over lapping time.
When I was replacing the timing belt I inspected the water pump and it wasn't leaking or making noise so I left it.
I would suggest replacing the water pump if you don't want to get in there again.
I can do these timing belts pretty quickly that if the water pump does leak/make noise it won't take me long to do it.
on the 2.6L G54B engine, does the Mikuni carb need to come out, before the fuel pump can be replaced ?
Hi sir,it's really a good explanation..may i ask you 1 question,how to take out the breather a/t case?
It's really good to hear your answer.thanks
Buen trabajo
Where did you get the tensioner tool from
I got from www.rtmracing.com but they are now closing down so they are selling off whatever stock is left.
But pretty sure you can get it on amazon. Look up mitsubishi tensioner tool.
Great video!!! I’m curious about a few things I’m working on my daughters outlander and I’m not sure what the problems are with it is there a way I can talk to you?
Thank you! Sure I can try and help. Send me a message on my Instagram account @mods_obsessed
Bro! This is a great video! Thank you for sharing.
So just to summarize, the oil leaks was only because of the oil pan?
Good morning,Sir thanks on ur Vlog
about this model car,same at me
God bless StaySafe nb💪👍.
Nice video where did you find that red handled wrench you use to pretension the tensioner pully with? all i can find is the ones that connect to a ratchet.
Thanks!
To be honest I can't remember where I got that tool from. It was so long ago when I got it but it wasn't online.
But if you search "mitsubishi timing belt tensioner spanner wrench" it will come up.
Actually I do remember I got it from a place called RTMracing. Here is the link.
www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=18039
@@modsobsessed Awesome, Thank you!
@@CoreyRaines No problem.
Great job thanks !! i have a 4g69 engine too.
What's the milage of that particular 4G49 you worked on please ?
Thank you! At the time I did the timing belt maybe around 120,000km so that's about 75,000 miles
@@modsobsessed That's about the right time - Thank you. Great job !
You deserve 100K subscribers , will send link to friends.
@@f4f471 ah man that is amazing. Thank you so much. I have a hard time getting to make and edit these videos. Words like this inspire me to keep going.
Thanks for this, appreciate the quality commentary. Is there any risk in jacking the engine up using the oil pan? Isnt it too fragile?
Depending where on the oil pan you jack it from. Never use the jack on it's own always, put a piece of wood like a 2x4 that can go across from edge to edge of the oil pan and as close as possible to the corner, the bends are the strongest part of the pan. BUT if your oil pan is badly rusted like mine was (the oil in the pan was penetrating through) then it will crack the rust and cause a leak. Hence why I have a video replacing my oil pan. 😏
@@modsobsessed thanks!!
Really really thankfully with you , im from mexico Muchas gracias Amigo
What does the little belt control? I just pulled a piece of mine out but the car is still running fine.
The little belt is for your balance shaft. It helps with reducing engine vibration.
@@modsobsessed one more question... Is it drivable till I get it fixed 🤔??? Just curious, cause I may have to take it to a Friend's garage 45 mins away... or should I just rent a car dolly???
@@TimEFPV These cars have 2 balance shafts the back one is spun using that belt and the the front one is being spun by the oil pump. So these shafts counter balanced each other. So you will be having one spinning and the other one not spinning throwing off the balance which will cause vibrations and possible damage if driven to long like that. But I think it would be ok to drive it to your friend's garage but not ok to be driving it like that for months.
@@modsobsessed Thanks for the info! If I have anymore questions 🙃 I know who to come too!
@@TimEFPV Yeah no worries. Anytime.
Not bad for your demo, but I feel you when it comes in hard doing a mechanical in narrow space at engine front right side, since this engine is in transverse position but is hard as beginner whom this undergo timing belt replacement is too much time to consume, and thank you a lot for effort to upload this of informative and knowlegable videos thank you master watching your video from philippines...
Thank you cuz
No problem.
automatic and manual are same belt ?
Doesn't matter. Automatic and manual it's the same timing belt.
Hi Mate. What happens if, in this engine 4g69 ( Lanser SE 2.5 ch/cs ), the timing belt gets broken while the car is running? Will the valves get bent in all cases?
I would say most likely yes as it is a interference engine. If the car was just idling when it broke you might be lucky. I would try installing a new belt and do a compression and leaking down test then go from there.
I have this engine in my Chinese car, it's probably the most reliable part of the car
Haha... that's amazing. These engine are pretty good. Haven't had much issues with them. Thank for watching and leaving a comment.
Thank U,Sir Mods bless U.
Thanks for watching. Hope it helped.
What intake is that and where did you get it from ?
It's originally a cold air intake. I just took off the bottom half of the intake pipe because it's winter here.
I got this cold air intake 8 years ago from Amazon for $60. But just took a look on there now and can't find it anymore.
About how long did this take you?
Took me about 3 hours for this video. That's because of setting up the cameras and doing retakes for messing up the shot. Would usually take me about 1h30m doing it on the floor (not using a hoist). If its your first time doing it and on the floor (not using a hoist) I would say 3-5hours depending on your skill level.
Thank you for stressing the importance of using the special tool to set the proper tension.
No problem. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Hope this video helped.
Question, I recently purchased a 2007 Galant with the 4G69 engine. The timing belt was done about 20,000 miles ago and the car has a pretty heavy vibration at idle. Is it possible that they timed the oil pump incorrectly?
@@Afrattzz1Your timing belt was done 20,000miles ago and you're getting vibration now? If it was installed incorrectly you would have felt it right away.
@@davehermen6847 good point lol. I forgot to mention that I purchased the car two weeks ago. I left that bit of important info out
Shoot buddy for sure it's off! My 06 outlander I can't even feel the engine running at idle these things are so smooth (when the balance shafts are in time 😂)@@Afrattzz1
Will drop a common if I have any questions or concerns brother please reach back out to me thank you
Yeah ask if you have any questions. I will answer the best I can.
I feel like im the only one in my area that still has this car. Lol
I know what you mean. There used to be quite a few back in the day, but now they are scares. And when I see them they are pretty badly rusted here in Toronto, Canada. But did find a local CS3 chassis club that have pretty clean ones.
@@modsobsessed their is maybe like 2 of them around (rally sports this year), an oz rally in yellow and one person has them wagon. But they are just older 45 year olds daily driving them. But they look like new.
I have 120k miles on mine. TPS sensor is throwing code now im on limp mode. Gotta figure how to fix it tomorrow.
Hi dear
I got like your engine
Can you tell me your VIN so I can buy my parts
Thanks. You don't need my VIN to buy your parts.
After watching this video, I've decided not to attempt this 😁
At the same time I don't trust any mechanics in my area to do it correctly. Major shortage of good mechanics in Melbourne, Australia.
Thanks for watching the video. But sorry to hear that the video discouraged you from doing this job. Was the video not detailed enough, was it hard to follow? Let me know your feed back it will help me create better content.
@@modsobsessed actually this is probably the best tutorial/camera work I've seen. It's more the amount of parts and bolts to remove and keep track of, and reassembly that worries me.
Why you did not changed the oil seals? It's 120k now!
The front oil seal?
It wasn't leaking so why would I replace it?
What about this oil leak from oil pum ? Is there sole siling ti replace there?