If the string goes out of pitch when you lock down the locking nut, your string retainer bar (if you have one to begin with - if you don't, now is the time to get one!) isn't sitting low enough. It's supposed to sit so low that the passing string is at the same angle or even slightly lower than when it comes out of the locking nut (and that angle is NOT straight, it's pointing downwards the headstock). This is such a common problem that I thought everyone was aware of it by now.
I think not being able to pull up on the trem bar is a feature rather than a downside. Before totally blocking the trem the best option is to block it from going up, turning it into a down-only trem.
I'd say both options are features. the pull-up adds additional expressiveness to the trem and don't forget the flutter effects you can do. With a Dive-Only you don't have those BUT you can do double-stop bends which are completely out of the question with full floating trem... Personally I use both options on my guitars. Its just one more reason for another guitar
These are a neat idea if they come with the trem, but as an expensive add on I'm not sure they are worth it. Blocks of wood have been used the same way to block floating bridges for decades. I'm sure they are available in very precise measurements and can be bought more cheaply than a precisely engineered block of metal. You could probably just stack thin magnets together until they touch the guitar body. They would also be held to the brass block by magnetism, ensuring they would not slide out of place. Most guitars also have thin bodies, especially those with recessed tremolos. Most of my guitars will not allow me to do full pull ups and use a closed trem cover if I use larger than a 32mm block. Also, for metal, more low end in the tone due to the larger sustain block just makes the low end looser and the bar has more resistance. You will just end up rolling those additional lows off in the mix. And, for the most stable tuning, I would not only need the bridge blocked but also held in place from the string claw so pulling up on the bridge does not make the strings go sharp. By that time, you have defeated the entire purpose of having a floating bridge. In practice, at least for recording, it is best to track rhythms with tune-o-matic and fixed bridge guitars. The difficult aspect is if one is doing rhythms with a lot of flashy Randy Rhodes and Alexi Laiho type whammy bar fills. Then you need a guitar for many tunings. The best bridge for aggressive tremolo use like Slayer is still probably the Kahler, but they are still somewhat rare, relatively expensive, and require much more modification than Floyd Rose bridges. Kahlers also introduce a metallic sound that many find unpleasant. Many guitar luthiers hated putting Kahlers on Les Pauls in the 1980s. So, this is a neat idea by Sophia that needs to be included by default with future bridges, but I am not sure it would be worth the cost. I think a solution would be to prevent dive bombs with stacked shim magnets and then prevent pull ups with some sort of spring device that works like a toilet paper roller. Springs inside would allow you to twist the bar so it lengthens and bridges the gap between the spring claw and the block. Attach it to one of the spring claw points, twist until you have made contact between the block and the claw, and you are done. The bar could probably not prevent a hard pull up, but it would most likely stop the guitar going sharp by 1/2 to 1/4 of a step.
Have you ever checked out to Schaller sure claw. Replace your claw with this it regulates the tension of the springs with out having to disassemble your Floyd. And can be adjusted with a 3 mm hex key. Dimebag was pulling those harmonics off the 2nd fret getch-a- pull.😮
This is a cool idea, kind of incorporates three different products in one. I personally don’t think it will be super useful in my guitars though. I’ve just gotten used to all the Floyd quirks.
I have a floyd on my backup guitar a esp it workd great but it sticks up so high off the face of the guitar with knobs etc my right palm rubbs on it all the time i wish it wad lower like a kahler vibrato but i stays in tune fine that's my two cents great show cheers
When you change the spring tension using the thumb screw it still adjusts the angle of the trem vs. the body correct? Like if I had it set up flush it would change? Definitely going to try one of these as floyd maintenance is my biggest gear-related time sink
I actually have a late 90s Lag Roxanne. They’re not common in the states. A local dealer sold them back in the day and I got it in high school. I’ll never sell it. Too much sentimental value.
I was intrigued, until I started thinking about removing the Floyd to install it, and the time it will take to get everything dialed back in (using a D-Tuna as well) I stared getting a headache just thinking about how much time I'll need to set aside....lol Good product idea, though. If I ever want to torture myself, I might get one...
From what I can gather. Your problem isn't a Floyd. It's a really bad setup on your guitar. 1: Pitch should NOT raise when locking a locking nut. f that happens you need a properly string director above the nut. 2: If the knife edge and the surface on the stud is good on the floyd, and the setup is good. It should return to "0". It should always do this since the tension of the strings and the springs remains the same. 3: No, you cannot "tune" with the thumbscrew since that will wreck the intonation and the setup. If you use that thumbscrew to lower the tuning, the tremolo will tilt forward and all intonation will rise.
Herman Li demoed a bunch of guitars and bridges on his channel , comparing them going back to tune after using the bar... With a tuner. He didn't have a single guitar that returned perfectly. Sometimes what shows up on the tuner is imperceptible just playing the guitar, but may be more noticeable in a recording. I'm not sure what you mean about the thumbscrew exactly, but the point is to counteract the pull from locking the but, so the bridge returns to it's intended position, bringing intonation back into place. It seems it would be similar to adjusting the claw, but it's at the block instead, with a thumb screw. With that said, one could just get a Schaller Sure Claw, but they'd have to use an alen key to adjust. The benefit is that then you get a better claw that only needs a single adjustment, and it's much easier to install than replacing your block. I O, I'd rather have the claw and some other trem stopper solution like the Tremolo Swith or AEX Tremolo Stabilizer or other, depending on what I was going for. I'm still not convinced about the tremolo switch (I haven't used one, but I've used other stoppers), because usually you have to tighten the claw a not more to get absolute zero rattle and no sting bend issues, which would the throw the tuning off once switching back to floating mode. :/
Couldn't have said it better myself, although I did post pretty much the same thing a few minutes ago. Amazing how a little bit of research on RUclips could have addressed all of his issues.
Completely defeats the idea of a "Floating Bridge". ALL trem stops do. There is NO WAY you need 4 springs. One can set up a "Floating Bridge" using 11 gauge strings with ONLY 2 springs. Why are so many people afraid to adjust the claw?
Why can’t Floyd Rose invent in a floating trem that can become a hard tail with a turn of switch, a lot of guitarists hate Floyd’s every 80s guitar came a bloody floating trem, I think all floating trem guitars should have hardtail versions available.
Or you can buy a tremsetter like the ones made by Aleksandr Evgenevich Chromov. They cost around 60 dollars and allow you to detune the way you want without modifying any part of your guitar.
I LOVE the Alex Tremmory , I did try the $325 Sophia and went back to the $60 Tremmory and didn’t have to tear my Floyd’s completely apart to install it!
Product is cool. The review was . . . well, not as good as the product. I'm still not 100% clear on what it does, based on that description. Now I have to look up other videos to explain the product.
You can drop down tune ? Omg ,that is frickin awesome,and the dime bag highs sounds great as well, maybe try a little pitch shift to hit the high you want?
![Sophia Tremolos: Upgrading from Floyd to Sophia 2:92 pro [+]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/79BOARAmhsQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Sophia Tremolos: Upgrading from Floyd to Sophia 2:92 pro [+]](/img/tr.png)
The possibility for a steady tuning block and the option for drop tuning is what's the most appealing thing here.
If the string goes out of pitch when you lock down the locking nut, your string retainer bar (if you have one to begin with - if you don't, now is the time to get one!) isn't sitting low enough. It's supposed to sit so low that the passing string is at the same angle or even slightly lower than when it comes out of the locking nut (and that angle is NOT straight, it's pointing downwards the headstock). This is such a common problem that I thought everyone was aware of it by now.
I have a Sophia 2.92 bridge , wonderful sound and stable
Much more clarity, warm
Wow I really like this a lot. I gotta start saving up for one.
Been intrigued by these! Since ive been seeing them on Rusti Guitars! Super cool!
Hey great video -- thank you -- we also are offering extended range fixed length contact pins, if the rout is not hanging you up!
I think not being able to pull up on the trem bar is a feature rather than a downside. Before totally blocking the trem the best option is to block it from going up, turning it into a down-only trem.
I'd say both options are features. the pull-up adds additional expressiveness to the trem and don't forget the flutter effects you can do. With a Dive-Only you don't have those BUT you can do double-stop bends which are completely out of the question with full floating trem... Personally I use both options on my guitars. Its just one more reason for another guitar
This is awesome!! I need it in my life.
These are a neat idea if they come with the trem, but as an expensive add on I'm not sure they are worth it.
Blocks of wood have been used the same way to block floating bridges for decades. I'm sure they are available in very precise measurements and can be bought more cheaply than a precisely engineered block of metal.
You could probably just stack thin magnets together until they touch the guitar body. They would also be held to the brass block by magnetism, ensuring they would not slide out of place.
Most guitars also have thin bodies, especially those with recessed tremolos. Most of my guitars will not allow me to do full pull ups and use a closed trem cover if I use larger than a 32mm block.
Also, for metal, more low end in the tone due to the larger sustain block just makes the low end looser and the bar has more resistance. You will just end up rolling those additional lows off in the mix.
And, for the most stable tuning, I would not only need the bridge blocked but also held in place from the string claw so pulling up on the bridge does not make the strings go sharp.
By that time, you have defeated the entire purpose of having a floating bridge.
In practice, at least for recording, it is best to track rhythms with tune-o-matic and fixed bridge guitars.
The difficult aspect is if one is doing rhythms with a lot of flashy Randy Rhodes and Alexi Laiho type whammy bar fills. Then you need a guitar for many tunings.
The best bridge for aggressive tremolo use like Slayer is still probably the Kahler, but they are still somewhat rare, relatively expensive, and require much more modification than Floyd Rose bridges. Kahlers also introduce a metallic sound that many find unpleasant. Many guitar luthiers hated putting Kahlers on Les Pauls in the 1980s.
So, this is a neat idea by Sophia that needs to be included by default with future bridges, but I am not sure it would be worth the cost.
I think a solution would be to prevent dive bombs with stacked shim magnets and then prevent pull ups with some sort of spring device that works like a toilet paper roller.
Springs inside would allow you to twist the bar so it lengthens and bridges the gap between the spring claw and the block. Attach it to one of the spring claw points, twist until you have made contact between the block and the claw, and you are done. The bar could probably not prevent a hard pull up, but it would most likely stop the guitar going sharp by 1/2 to 1/4 of a step.
Great review. Thank you!
Have you ever checked out to Schaller sure claw. Replace your claw with this it regulates the tension of the springs with out having to disassemble your Floyd. And can be adjusted with a 3 mm hex key.
Dimebag was pulling those harmonics off the 2nd fret getch-a- pull.😮
This is a cool idea, kind of incorporates three different products in one. I personally don’t think it will be super useful in my guitars though. I’ve just gotten used to all the Floyd quirks.
Thank you for this video. I just checked the Sophia's web site They also bring improvments for other tremolo brands. That's really interesting 🙂👌
A good altetnative to stabilizers that Steve Vai uses in his Jem series Ibanez axes. Good info!!!
I feel like most of the problems you’re describing aren’t a problem with Original/FR 1000’s. I know they are expensive but they are worth it.
You can enlarge the cavity in the guitar, in order to get more range
I have a floyd on my backup guitar a esp it workd great but it sticks up so high off the face of the guitar with knobs etc my right palm rubbs on it all the time i wish it wad lower like a kahler vibrato but i stays in tune fine that's my two cents great show cheers
which one is better Sophia vs Tremmory?
When you change the spring tension using the thumb screw it still adjusts the angle of the trem vs. the body correct? Like if I had it set up flush it would change? Definitely going to try one of these as floyd maintenance is my biggest gear-related time sink
It doesn't over here, it actually "pushes" the springs back and the trem stays where it needs to be (flat).
@@Mendelian good to know, thanks!
I actually have a late 90s Lag Roxanne. They’re not common in the states. A local dealer sold them back in the day and I got it in high school. I’ll never sell it. Too much sentimental value.
Is this only for Floyd rose or any floating trem,I'd like to stop my abasi Larada 6
Most floating Trems, check their website for compatibility.
I was intrigued, until I started thinking about removing the Floyd to install it, and the time it will take to get everything dialed back in (using a D-Tuna as well) I stared getting a headache just thinking about how much time I'll need to set aside....lol
Good product idea, though. If I ever want to torture myself, I might get one...
Took me 20 minutes :)!
Great video, can you please tell me what are the springs you used in the back and where I can buy them? Thank you :))
FU TONE I believe? The black ones? Noiseless Springs.
Great presentation, you got right to the point. 😂
😳Yeah i definetly agree that not being able to pull up on the trem bar is a downside.
From what I can gather.
Your problem isn't a Floyd. It's a really bad setup on your guitar.
1: Pitch should NOT raise when locking a locking nut. f that happens you need a properly string director above the nut.
2: If the knife edge and the surface on the stud is good on the floyd, and the setup is good. It should return to "0". It should always do this since the tension of the strings and the springs remains the same.
3: No, you cannot "tune" with the thumbscrew since that will wreck the intonation and the setup. If you use that thumbscrew to lower the tuning, the tremolo will tilt forward and all intonation will rise.
Herman Li demoed a bunch of guitars and bridges on his channel , comparing them going back to tune after using the bar... With a tuner. He didn't have a single guitar that returned perfectly.
Sometimes what shows up on the tuner is imperceptible just playing the guitar, but may be more noticeable in a recording.
I'm not sure what you mean about the thumbscrew exactly, but the point is to counteract the pull from locking the but, so the bridge returns to it's intended position, bringing intonation back into place. It seems it would be similar to adjusting the claw, but it's at the block instead, with a thumb screw.
With that said, one could just get a Schaller Sure Claw, but they'd have to use an alen key to adjust. The benefit is that then you get a better claw that only needs a single adjustment, and it's much easier to install than replacing your block.
I O, I'd rather have the claw and some other trem stopper solution like the Tremolo Swith or AEX Tremolo Stabilizer or other, depending on what I was going for.
I'm still not convinced about the tremolo switch (I haven't used one, but I've used other stoppers), because usually you have to tighten the claw a not more to get absolute zero rattle and no sting bend issues, which would the throw the tuning off once switching back to floating mode. :/
Couldn't have said it better myself, although I did post pretty much the same thing a few minutes ago. Amazing how a little bit of research on RUclips could have addressed all of his issues.
I orders the Fender Jeff Loomis Signiture Stone Tone Ceramic Block. I do suggest check one out for yourself on another guitar.
Is this only for Floyd's?
What guitar is that?
Completely defeats the idea of a "Floating Bridge". ALL trem stops do. There is NO WAY you need 4 springs. One can set up a "Floating Bridge" using 11 gauge strings with ONLY 2 springs. Why are so many people afraid to adjust the claw?
Why can’t Floyd Rose invent in a floating trem that can become a hard tail with a turn of switch, a lot of guitarists hate Floyd’s every 80s guitar came a bloody floating trem, I think all floating trem guitars should have hardtail versions available.
Or you can buy a tremsetter like the ones made by Aleksandr Evgenevich Chromov. They cost around 60 dollars and allow you to detune the way you want without modifying any part of your guitar.
I LOVE the Alex Tremmory , I did try the $325 Sophia and went back to the $60 Tremmory and didn’t have to tear my Floyd’s completely apart to install it!
top review........your 'busy' T shirt giving me a headache tho
I have a super random question..what glasses are you wearing? 🤣😅
LOL. Who opens a package like that?
A waste of money
Dude! Someone sold you a defective guitar!
It’s upside down backwards
No, no, no!
This is how a guitar looks on Australia
Product is cool. The review was . . . well, not as good as the product. I'm still not 100% clear on what it does, based on that description. Now I have to look up other videos to explain the product.
You can drop down tune ? Omg ,that is frickin awesome,and the dime bag highs sounds great as well, maybe try a little pitch shift to hit the high you want?
Are you Dutch?