Affordable Router Sled - I finally got it right!
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- Опубликовано: 28 май 2024
- How to make an affordable linear rail router sled, by only cutting and drilling a $20 acrylic sheet.
Links to tools used or referenced in this video (*affiliate):
COMPLETE PARTS LIST FOR ROUTER SLED:
Side rails - amzn.to/40rIKYx
Cross rails - amzn.to/478twtx
.... double check cross rails part number "SC20UU+4Pcs" - or see note below
Acrylic sheet - amzn.to/3FxviIL
Screws - amzn.to/3Mi3GLH
Nuts - amzn.to/3s9AcJ2
End blocks - amzn.to/476yjvy
NOTE: if the cross-rails are temporarily sold out, then the amazon link wrongly directs to a different and incorrect set of rails. Please double check the cross rails are these specific description... "Linear Rail Slide 20mm x 1200mm Linear Bearing Slide Set with 4Pcs Block Bearings SC20UU+4Pcs"
Here is a link for an alternate equivalent cross rails if the Vevor ones in the link above are sold out...
Alternate cross rails - amzn.to/3SEX7oD
OTHER TOOLS REFERENCED OR USED IN VIDEO:
Router - amzn.to/3tHnUrw
Trim router - amzn.to/3QzNwzP
1" surfacing bit - amzn.to/3s6lMt0
2" surfacing bit - amzn.to/3Sh0PGE
Laser - amzn.to/4998RHq
Drill press - amzn.to/3QwyoC7
LIGHTBURN FILES FOR THE DRILL TEMPLATE
30x32 hole pattern - drive.google.com/file/d/10CA1...
40x40 hole pattern - drive.google.com/file/d/1V_Sz...
SVG FILES FOR THE DRILL TEMPLATE
30x32 hole pattern - drive.google.com/file/d/1u-rl...
40x40 hole pattern - drive.google.com/file/d/1wTQq...
*affiliate - As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases, at no additional cost to you. 
Хобби
Thanks for making this and providing all of your materials and instructions for free. The router sled market has become an absurd over marketed money grab for guys with CNC machines. And RUclips has become another money grab with patreon and paid plans. Old school RUclips open source information sharing is sadly dying
Thanks!
you just knew there was going to be a problem when they went after and shuttered Napster.
Finally... somebody telling all the things that went wrong. I found three mistakes that I as about to make so you saved me that frustration. Thanx for an awesome vid !
Thanks! Glad I could help!
I read the warning on the DeWalt speed differently: it says at low and medium speeds it will act to keep the speed the same, but you might overheat if you push too hard. Because the motor won't slow, you won't know that you are pushing it too hard. They don't say how to know if you are pushing too hard, but probably at the depths of cut for surfacing, it isn't likely. And if you are moving by hand, you will feel when the cut rate bogs down.
This would be the correct interpretation. I was thrown off by his explanation also. What the router does is increase amperage into the motor to maintain RPMs, this will add extra heat into the motor and if done too much, can cause it to fail. So lower speeds require slower feed rates.
Thanks for the clarification, I guess I just misunderstood. Yeah I guess if you are just careful to not put too much load on the router, it would work fine. Thanks!
@@jkmwoodworking I love the simplicity of this design. So I've spent a bit of time pricing out this design and trying to figure out how to make it work in my workshop. I was trying to decide if I needed the full length, and if I even had a place to put the full 2m length.
Be interesting to mount a dial indicator on the sled cross rails and see how much deflection (sag) you get in the center of the rails. Good looking design.
Interesting idea, I might try it! Thanks!
I would imagine with the weight of the router not counting for any down force applied by you,across that span would probably result in at lest .010" in the middle. Steel is way more flexible than most folks would think. Of course .010" would not be at all noticeable across a large cutting board or table top. @@jkmwoodworking
The rest of my rails show up tomorrow. Thanks for the walkthrough, and the explanation of errors. It’s nice to see someone explain the missteps instead of me yelling at my tools. 😁
Glad to hear it was helpful!
@@jkmwoodworkinghey bud you still got 1 mistake left you haven't realized... I have the exact same router and made a router sled like yours... well I was doing 1/8" passes over walnut with a 2" spoilboard bit, and I was going nice and slow... really smooth didn't wanna work my router too hard, 2 1/4 hp dewalt... well only 20 minutes and she was smoking. 3+ hp router should be the standard on a router sled. I'm currently looking into a few... Triton has a 3 1/2? I think like $300 vevor makes a 3 1/4 ,for real cheap like $90 but will it last long? Idk and can't find any good reviews, just unboxing reviews. Nobody does any real reviews anymore, just day 1 crap and it's annoying
I came across these rails marketed on Amazon for a CNC and immediately imagined them for a sled. Excellent video and info for us new to the sled game. 👍👍👍
FWIW I realize in the grand scheme, $20 doesn’t amount to much. But for future reference stop by any countertop shop that does solid surface (Corian) and you likely will find a nearly unlimited supply of 1/2” acrylic in their dumpster. I did solid surface for decades and shudder to think of all the valuable stuff that we threw away that could have been repurposed for things other than cutting boards.
Great info, thanks!
Thank you on creating this video depicting your build along with the issues you had building it. It is very well thought out and I believe that just about anyone can duplicate your build. The part on the acrylic square vs rectangle was awesome as well as the part about what type drill bits to use. I am sure this helped me save some money. I was able to create this and I love it and appreciate you for bringing this to anyone interested in building a router sled. I believe that router sleds are more universal or convenient vs having to plane everything. This is relatively cheap to make vs purchasing a small planer let alone a large planer, and can be made rather large to do larger pieces of wood. I know that there are kits out there as you mentioned in your video but this is the way to go. Thanks again - much appreciated! :)
That's awesome, happy to hear that it worked for you! Thanks for your kind words!
I did the very same thing. all done in a half day.
I love this system. There ar so many others on YT that just don't seem to measure up to the simplicity of your system. Thank you!
Thanks so much!
Your idea of putting an acrylic sheet instead a metal sheet is genius!!!
Thanks!
Fantastic video! I've been wanting to build a nice setup for ages but was not able to decide on rails. Being on a budget means I can't experiment and your video helped immensely.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Great project! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
Great practical advice! Thanks for putting the video together.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!
great design, thanks for sharing
Thanks!
I’m not a woodworker, will probably never build this, LOVED the video! Very interesting - great way to start my day! Thanks!
Thanks so much!
Great video. Very helpful and gets to the points!
Thank you!
Thanks for this video & the PARTS LIST!
Nice build.
Saving for later.
👍
Great, thanks!
Great build. The list of projects to make so I can make other projects is never ending :)
Thanks!
High quality video. Thank you very much.
Thank you so much!
Saw this on Reddit and got here as fast as possible. AMAZING!
Wow! Thanks!
Great video. Absolutely what I needed
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
This was so good! Will use this video as a template to build my own. Thanks brother!
Thanks so much!
fantastic video. definitely going to add something like this as well
Awesome, thank you!
This great . Thanks for explaining the process , and including mistakes is helpful to understand the process further . Good stuff
Thanks so much!
Wow! Thanks for sharing such a solid build design and doing so via a well-crafted video presentation.
Thank you! Much appreciated!
I appreciate the insights.
Thanks!
+1
Can I say Beautiful ? I love this. I just checked amazon for the cost of this build. This won't break the bank.
This just might be in my future, in the spring.
Thanks! Yes, it's very affordable for a really good router sled!
@@jkmwoodworking I did go and buy the parts for this, yes it can be done under $200 (IF) you have a router already. (I have 2 routers)
After watching this I did it. 1000MM x 1000MM, I didn't need anything bigger. The only change was the acrylic, I did 13mm thickness.
@@davidhabener5767 Awesome! I'm glad to hear it worked out!
easy, simple and effective ! thanks for putting this video out. It has helped me a lot!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
That was a really good explanation of whty you used those parts. Cheers!
Thanks! Much appreciated!
New subscriber from across the pond. Great video, thanks for sharing.
Awesome, thank you!
Excellent video 👌😊
Many thanks!
Fantastic video! I just ordered the full list. Thank You for the R and D and making mistakes, that leaves room for my own mistakes.
Thanks so much!
Nice video, I will use your tips in my built!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
I built this exact sled over the weekend and it went together great. I have my surfacing bit on order to attach to my Festool 1400 router so when that gets in I’ll be able to test it. But even now it’s very solid and smooth so I expect it to work just fine. Thanks for the great video, parts list and tips! Kudos to your design!
Great, I'm glad it worked well for you! Thanks so much for the kind words!
hi Bob how r u
Thanks for the good information.
You bet!
I've been considering making one of these thanks for the detailed video with mistakes!
Glad it was helpful!
Solid content pal
Thanks!
Super honest tutorial much appreciated well worth a sub
Much appreciated!
Precisely!
@@kevineyesix2257 Thanks!
Thanks for this terrific video and sharing your lessons. I basically followed your guidance with just a few deviations. It's working great. Thank you.
Thanks! Glad it helped!
Thanks! Great instructional video! You've given me the information and confidence to attempt this project
Great to hear! Thanks!
What a great video. Thank You!!!
Thank you so much!
Always like your videos
Thanks so much!
Thank you! Awesome video. I have wanted to make a router sled for a few years. I ordered the parts last night. I'm looking forward to flattening a couple of large slabs I've had for a few years.
Thanks so much! Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful, thank you
Glad to hear it!
You video was very helpful, did it in one attempt because I was looking out for all the problems you mentioned. :) thank you
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video!!!
Thank you very much!
Picking nits...flat bottom is counter BORE, conical bottom is counter SINK. Great project & video, thank you!
Thanks! Appreciate the terminology clarification
A great example of common sense DIY! Thank you...I will bookmark this video and use it as a reminder 👍
Thanks for the kind words!
Good Job.
Thanks!
Awesome tutorial. You earned a subscriber sir.
Awesome, thank you!
Been thinking of building one of these for a bit now. I’ll be sure to save this video to save me some money and frustration when I decide to start ordering parts.
Great, thanks!
Great setup. Do the 20mm bars sag at all over that distance .
Thanks! The bars don't sag at all, they are very stiff and solid.
I thank you for you frankness. I made the same mistakes too but I used steel plates.
Thanks!
Very cool, thank you.
thanks!
Awesome work thatks for the vid you earned a new sub.
Thanks!
really well done video. The pacing, narration, and shots were all just... nice. with this quality, I was surprised to see this channel only has a few thousand subscribers. I could see it growing a lot
Thanks so much! My channel is less than a year old, and still growing. I appreciate your optimistic forecast for the future of the channel!
Simple comment and extremely useful documentary.
Many thanks!
Perfect
GREAT video, I'll be watching more and thinking, based on quality of video and content, your channel will grow. Good luck, keep up the great work!
Thanks! I like your prediction of growth on the channel!
I started building a router sled using a similar design to yours, except I used some 3/4" plywood for the carriage for the router. I ran into a few issues very similar to the ones you had in getting the holes for the slides lined up correctly. Your idea of laser cutting a template is really good, so I'm going to re-do mine using a laser-cut template as well. My rails are the first kind you tried also, where the mounting holes on the slides are on top, and using those made my carriage way too high. I need to fix that problem, so I'm going to look into the type of rails you used where the mounting holes are on the bottom. Like you said, it should simplify the carriage quite a bit. My shop is really small, so I don't have nearly enough room to have a router sled inside, so I mounted my long rails to some 2x4's that I can drop into the slots of two Bora sawhorses, then drop a piece of plywood between them to support the workpiece that I want to flatten. That way I can quickly set it up outside my shop, then tear it down and store everything away, including folding up the sawhorses. Since I'm doing the flattening outside, I don't have to deal with all the chips inside my shop, either. Anyway, thanks for this great video; it's given me some inspiration and idea for my flattening sled so I can get it working well.
Great info, thanks for sharing! Sounds like a similar experience as mine. Great idea with the 2x4's!
Inspired me to make my own. I ordered from the links shown, but for longevity I used 1/4” aluminum plate for the router are and adapter plates, rather than the plexiglass.
Great to hear the video was helpful. The aluminum plate idea sounds good, I'm sure it will work great!
Very nice! Thank you so much for the detailed build plans 👍 Now just to figure out how to make the needed templates w/o a laser... :D
Thanks! yeah, having the laser is nice for templates!
mounting brackets can be out of plywood or steel (plywood is more than enough...you can build cnc out of plywood easily)
for X axis you could use supported rails like for Y axis ...but mount them to steel profile for stiffness
then it should be rock solid and even allow you to use it like an CNC with some belts / screws, detachable nut (so you can still use it like router sled) and maybe Z axis like an accessory part to make it literally CNC router
I recommend putting a dowel or something on the linier bearings when storing. They are notorious for the bearings to fall out. If it happens to get dropped it may cause a problem. Nice build though. I need to do the same thing.
Great suggestion, thanks! I'm going to try it.
Nice Video Thank You
Thanks!
Awesome video! This was almost exactly what I had started to design in my head. Just used your links and ordered the parts. I hope you get some kickback.
Only change I’m going to make is to add a dust collection port and some dust shoe brush for chip/dust collection.
Awesome, thanks so much! I agree that having the dust collection would be better.
You definitely saved me time and money, because I have no doubt I would’ve made the same mistakes with the acrylic. 👍🏼
@@keastland I'm happy to hear it was helpful!
Thank you so much you’re awesom!
Wow! Thank you!
thank you
Welcome!
Thanks!👍
You bet! Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. Liked and subscribed. The 20mm cross rails seem out of stock in the 1000mm length (what I need). Will be checking daily to get these.
Awesome, thank you!
Hey , very nice video and explanation. I wish I watched the whole thing more carefully before committing the same mistakes you did 😹😹😹 , but overall great and very smart design. The thing is rock solid. Went with 20mm on both side and cross rails since my table is not perfectly flat... You saved me a lot of time figuring it out myself , as most of the other videos router slabs look terrible and would potentially lead to inconsistent performance. You have a new subscriber :) Cheers
Thank you so much! Glad it was helpful!
@@jkmwoodworking Yeah , the only thing I would add to be helpful to someone attempting this is , when you drill the acrylic max the rpm at the end so it doesn't shatter. The acrylic likes to shatter if the drilling bit bites it , but with high rpm, it instead melts and doesn't shatter. I broke 2 pieces like that even with regular (for metal) drill bits.
I've watched your video numerous times, I wish other YT's would watch and use the voice over as you do. It's just so superior. Excellent work ! One question, how or did you level the side rails and cross rails ? I've built a jig using plywood and galvanized pipe to route the top of logs and make them flat. I had to make sure the side rails were level both ways with one another so the sled would be level. Then it didn't matter if the log was level, I just routed it till it was. Maybe I missed it but I didn't see if or how you leveled. If you could explain it's greatly appreciated. I've checked all the links and everything is available. This is just such great work on your part !
Thanks so much for your kind words! The plywood bed/base of the sled sits on top of my workbench, and essentially conforms to however level the workbench top is. I leveled my workbench using adjustable feet that it has. I was very meticulous in leveling the work bench to get it exactly right. I really should have included that in the video, because it is important to get a good result in leveling anything of significant size with the router sled. Great question, thanks!
Love this! I plan to learn from your experience and basically duplicate your setup. Quick question on the router speed. What speed setting would you recommend for a 2" bit?
Thanks, glad it was helpful. I set my router at the slowest speed, which I believe is 14,000 rpm for the 2" bit.
I wonder if you can use the same rails with a different base for a panel saw, that way...two birds one stone...?
That’s a great idea, hadn’t thought about that possibility!
I love what you’ve done, warts and all. Thanks. I’m considering making one myself that’s wide enough (≈1.2m) for table tops and doors using the large Triton router.
Do you think I would need to go to larger diameter cross rails (i.e. 25mm) to avoid deflection across such a broad span with a heavy router?
Much appreciated
Thanks for the kind words! I also have the 1.2m cross rails, 20 mm diameter. They feel rock solid, and I believe that they could handle any size router without any deflection.
Awesome video. I wish I had seen this before I bought the more complex and more expensive rod+mount mechanism from Amazon instead of the straight rod mechanism that this video recommends. Now I have to decide whether to return and get the simpler mechanism or not. Also I chose a square router tray for my first attempt and will likely decide to go with the wider option for the reasons described here. I'm curious if plywood is a suitable option for the tray instead of acrylic.
Thanks for the kind words! I haven't tried plywood as an alternative to acrylic, but believe it would work just fine.
Entertaining and yet you didn’t waste my time
Got to the point
Just said why and why not and moved on
By far the simplest and sturdiest design … Period!
All I had to do is cut plexi larger and add a vacuum port off to one side and skirt it
Keep up the good work
And Thanks
Uncle Steve
Thanks so much for the kind words! Happy to here it was helpful!
Also, I can’t remember if you mentioned this in the video but I need a collect extension to get enough travel for my router bit.
I didn't mention it in the video. I actually didn't need a collet extension, maybe it depends on the router. Thanks for watching, and the great comments!
Fantastic video! I learned quite a bit and it was a huge help. In part of the video(7:57), it shows you added some sort of lever-based stop to the side rail runner. Would you mind sharing what part you used?
Awesome, thank you! The lever comes with the side rails that I bought, I put a link in the description to the specific ones that come with the lever.
My only comment is I use my drill press to drill any and all holes that I can. Providing the table is square with the quill, it will insure all the holes are straight, and you can generate a lot more downforce then with a hand drill.
This is brilliant! I always wanted a router sled, but didn’t want some large wooden contraption that I don’t often use. I will use your links. Thanks!
Great, thank you!
Great video and commentary. By going over the mistakes, one can understand what works and why. Thank you.
Thanks!
This one of the best demos I’ve seen. I hope you have the parts list readily available. What do you recommend if a person doesn’t have a laser to cut out a template?
Thanks so much! maybe try using one of the linear rail blocks as a guide to create the template, just being careful not the mess up the threads? Or could just measure super carefully, start the holes with a really small drill bit to get them exactly in the right spot, and drill the template from that?
Great design. Have you ever checked whether the shafts on which the router runs are sagging and therefore the workpiece is thinner in the middle than on the sides
Thanks! I placed a straight edge across the table in all directions after using the router sled, and didn't notice any depression in the center, it was complexly flat. The cross-rails feel really solid, and no sense that they have any sag at all.
Now that’s a great video. I don’t have a laser or really want one. Ever thought about making and selling the templates?
Thanks! I've had a lot of requests for the template, and yes I've thought about it, but I'm really not setup to sell stuff. I'm just a hobbyist. If I do start selling them, I'll let you know.
Buy yourself a set of centering punches, they are fantastic marking holes when using a threaded plate as your guide since drilling ruins the threads. (Not in this video) I can appreciate your process since I just finished a plasma cutter sled of similar construction.
I will be making one of these down the road. One question, How critical is it to have a dead flat surface to mount it onto? (like torsion box dead flat or assembly table flat) Thanks again for a fantastic video! Your work, effort, and time are much appreciated!
Hey Mike, great question! It is pretty important to have it flat, but I'm not sure torsion box is needed. I used it with a piece of plywood just laying on top of my assembly table / workbench. At first, i discovered that my workbench wasn't flat, that one corner was a little high, and caused a twist when initially using the router sled. But I quickly figured it out and using the leveling legs on my workbench, I was able to get it pretty flat, and then got great results.
I've got another video in works for the build of the live edge/walnut/epoxy table that I showed in this video. My plan was to address the leveling of the workbench in that video, but great point that it is a subject that I shouldn't have left unaddressed in this video.
You always have great & relevant comments and question, thanks so much!
You can always add shims to fix dips in your table. You could even use globs of hot glue if your table is laminated, Formica, or melamine. Just remember your sled is going to translate the surface the piece is mounted on, like a planer would.
Great info, thanks!
If i use a 4x8 sheet of melamine or MDF on top of my assembly table won't it take the uneven assembly table top out of the equation?@@jkmwoodworking
@@joeglynn2185 I think it would work ok for relatively small workpieces, say less than 2-3 ft in length. I would think the melamine would be stiff enough to keep it level for a short distance. However, for longer workpieces, it wouldn't take much to introduce even a small twist in the melamine or mdf. Even just a 1/16" or 1/8" over a 5 ft workpiece could be problematic. My experience was that after I first built the router sled, and used it several times on smaller projects and never notices the twist in my workbench. But when I did a 5 ft long table top, then it became noticeable and then I had to fix the workbench to be completely level to get good results.
Acrylic is prone to fracturing with all normal drill bits. You have to purchase specially design bits for Acrylic.
I prefer polycarbonate. Can bet thinner, easier to cut and drill.
Great info, thanks!
Great video and execution on this. After watching I’m going to build your design. QUESTION: For all the screw holes, did you size up on the bit at all or did you get them fairly tight?
Great, thanks! Yes, I did drill the holes very slightly larger than the screws. My drill bits are imperial sizes and the screws are metric, so I just went the size slightly larger. I think that is important to allow a little jiggle, then everything kind of self-aligns when you assemble it and tighten the screws.
@@jkmwoodworking. Makes sense. That’s what I suspected, thank for the quick reply!
Doesn't acrylic require a sharper point angle on the drill i.e. lower than the typical ~118°? IIUC, that's how to avoid having the bit grab as it breaks through.
Interstate, this is a good design. However, you might consider using uninstall. Add your side rails a piece of 3/4. Inch plywood and quarter inch hardboard will snuggly fit inside the slot of a uni.
Then you can make the box. End So you can make your flattening diggers. Long as you want up to the length of your unistrut, you can use warships and screws to attach it to a flat surface on your end pieces Holden an 8 inch. Above the bottom of the you destroyed and then. When you get it set up, you can piece of put a piece of quarter inch. Why would on the inside? What's a run along the top of the interstate? This works out very well and it pretty unexpensive give me a try
thanks for the awesome video. i am having a tough time printing the svg files. for some reason its printing using the whole sheet of paper. how do i print the actual size?
Thanks! I'm not sure about printing the files. I created the files in lightburn, with the intent that they are used as laser engraver files. I really hadn't thought to just print them out. Sorry, wish I could be more help.
Love the video, would you consider sale the templates. If you do, how much you charge for them?
Thanks for the kind words! I've considered selling the templates, but not setup to do it at this time. I'll let you know if at some point in the future I get geared up to sell them. Thanks for watching the video!
Just spend a little extra for the pre-made ones. All the messups, labor, calculating time, etc adds up to more $$. Just buy one pre-made and start flattening slabs. Lol
I think you've misunderstood the user manual, it seems to be warning you that it won't slow down on load so you won't get an audible reference for load, and without it you could damage the motor. It's not saying it won't spin at the set speeds. It just won't drop below the set speeds.
I just got these components in the mail along with a new Bosch router 2.25hp with variable speed. Excited to get this made. Still need to get a sheet of plywood. What speed are you running your router at? Also, are your attached files able to be printed out on a regular sheet of paper for hole alignment? I don’t have a light burn machine.
I run the router at its slowest setting when using the 2 inch bit, I think it is about 14000 rpm. I’m not sure about printing the files. The .svg files are a standard format, can by opened by most applications, so I would think they could be printed, but I haven’t tried
Very nice project and explanation. Just curious, what was the model and hp of the largest router you used on the sled? I was wondering if the larger router may create flex in the cross-rails as the router moves over the piece to level. Thanks for sharing. BTW - subscribed:)
Thanks so much! I was using the dewalt 618 router, 2 1/4 hp. I didn’t notice any flex, the rails feel very solid even with the larger router
Great tutorial and the simplest way to build the sled. After many attempts, I’m hoping this is the last one. It would be awesome if you could facilitate the drill template in a different format (PDF, JPEG…) than LBRN2, I can’t open them. In any case, your video helped me a lot and I thank you for it. Keep posting.
Thanks so much! I'll see if I can get the file posted in a different format.
Wow, thanks a lot. In any case please keep posting, I learn so much from the way you think and express…
Thank you so much for taking the time to post the files. Much appreciated. Merry Christmas.
@@eduardovigil5609 no problem. Merry Christmas!
I am brand new to woodworking and really appreciate you taking the time to lay this out so well and post all parts and Lightburn files. Is it my imagination or are the SBR20 blocks on the crossrails "closed blocks"? When I click on the link it shows just the regualr open blocks that are pretty standard with these kits. I really want to keep the mount build as simple as possible and this video looks perfect.
Hi Joe, the 20 mm crossrails have closed blocks. I double checked the links in the description, and the ones they link to are also closed. Note that the "SBR" style rail is what is used on the 16mm side rails, and those are open blocks. The 20 mm crossrails are not the SBR style, and they are closed blocks. Hope this helps
After perusing the video and links a bit more I got it figured out. All my parts arrived today. Really looking forward to assembling this sled. Thanks so much again for sharing your experience with us. Happy Holidays.
@@jkmwoodworking
I have a new laser coming but not until after Christmas. I know others have inquired but is there any way to figure out the template in a downloadable pdf format? No worries if not. I am inherently an impatient person. LOL
Hi Joe, I put links in the description to the template files in a .svg (vector graphics) format. You should be able to open that file easily, and can also load into most (if not all) laser software. I think this format is more flexible than pdf, hopefully it will work for you. Have fun with your new laser!
I finished and used the sled for the first time today. It is amazing. I would not say working with acrylic and drilling holes was the easiest thing I have ever done. Lol😂 Thanks again for all your help and sharing this video. It is what made me think I could build this too.
Watching this for a 2nd time, great video!! I just had one question...
It looks like you have a stop handle on the sled, did you have to tap a hole for that or did the rails come with the handle?
Thanks! The stop handle came with the side rails... definitely a really nice thing to have!
Helpful detail would be tally up the budget at the end. *Edit: ~$400 for 4x8ft nominal capacity.* All the best, Andrew Thiessen
Agreed! I should have included that
"Affordable" 😂
@@Steven-he1bc It's HALF the cost of a setup that costs TWICE as much 👈😉
@branchandfoundry560 Everything is half the cost of something that costs twice as much. That's just math.
@@Steven-he1bc Whaaat?!?
I am looking to do the same. bought the rails some time ago and seems like they are exactly what you are using. I was looking for a good tutorial on the mounting plate and thought of using a 3/4 in plywood. Is there any reason you opted for an acrylic sheet? also dont have a laser but was thinking of printing out the template and make the template on a mdf piece which could be used on the plywood.
I also wanted to put dust collection but have the same setup (bucket and shop vac). I might have to empty it couple of time but it might be needed since I feel dust could get into bearing, reducing its efficiency. Did you face any such issues?
I chose to use acrylic instead of plywood because it is clear and I could see through it, but not sure if that is really too important or not. Also, I think that acrylic at 3/8" is maybe more rigid than plywood at 3/4", so thinner and more stiff (not necessarily stronger, I'm not sure, but more rigid). I didn't have any problems with dust clogging up the bearings. Maybe the more I use it will, but then I would think if that happens, I could just clean them out. Thanks for the great comments and questions!