Do not store in heat. Great tip. I learned about this the hard way with my EOS 650. The fluids got on my shutter blades and really turned me off canon for many years. Then I found out that I had been the cause of the problem. So now Canon and Nikon share my studio together in harmony.
Thanks for this series of videos. I recently purchased a 1V to do film photography. I have many, many Canon EF-compatible lenses that I use with Canon digital cameras, and this camera will allow me to leverage their value. Your video tutorials are really helpful.
Just picked this bad boy up (9/15/21) and this was extremely useful in helping me get started. Thank you for putting this together. Watched all three in videos!
Hey David, thanks for the great review of this body! It was very helpful. I was surprised to hear that you didn't feel like it was very intuitive. I'm a canon shooter through and through and I feel like this is the perfect body, for me, to make the switch to film. I shoot in Manual mode and my shutter & aperture & focus select buttons are all in the same place as my 5Diii and 6D, which makes it really really nice! I do feel like I can adjust settings without taking the camera off of my face, so maybe it's worth noting that if you are a canon shooter, it will be easier. Thanks again, David!
+tjsa krebs That's a good point. And I know from Canon shooters that they are more comfortable with the interface. Since I shoot mostly Pentax and Minolta, the interface theory I'm used to is a lot different. That said, I'll be giving this interface another go in the coming months as I test drive an EOS 3 that I picked up yesterday.
I agree about the interface. I really have a hell of a time getting used to Nikon and Sony and Fuji etc. Canon has the only control scheme that doesn't make me think, only react intuitively. I can't explain it. It just works without thought.
I been looking into these. One thing that is so hard with canon is telling when they produced there EOS cameras. can't tell from the serial numbers what year one was made. Not just an issue for EOS 1v, i believe. But i'd love to find a 2018 Eos-1v.
ATG assisted this camera and it's an improvement over the T90 & EOS-3. This model comes in three versions: 1. ATG Canon EOS-1VHS (very rare only sold to elites & pros) 2. Canon EOS-1VHS 3. Canon EOS-1V The #1 was modified to shoot up to 10fps without using Canon Battery Pack. It is frozen & weather-sealed with HSS. This ATG designs was the foundation of today modern Canon's top-of-the line camera, Canon EOS-1D C. FYI: 15fps was the ATG Canon New F-1 High Speed Motor Drive (Gold HighEye Point) 14fps was the Canon New F-1 High Speed Motor Drive These two use FD lenses while EOS uses ATG AF L lenses
Thanks a lot for all the effort you put into these instruction videos! -- What I don't understand is the complaining about the fact that you have to take your camera down to change "modes". How do you change "modes" on other cameras? Without looking on the dials or display? Having used EOS3 cameras I find this one easy to use. Not that it takes better pictures. Because their quality depends on the lens and the film. But it is nice to handle.
I concur that the EOS 3 is harder to use than this one. MY problem with the EOS interface was always that it felt tech-y, not camera-y. For the new EOS R cameras, the one that I've used and others I've looked at incredible.
Ok, watched all three of the "Manual" videos last night. I wish you had told me this camera was so complicated before I bought it! :-) Great camera, but I can see it's going to be a challenge. You were exactly right, this camera was made for a pro who is making a living with the tool and spending many hours everyday with it. It's not, per se, a "Fun" camera.
+Rob Tillitz Yes, very true, but it is also exceedingly well made, engineered with great care, and supported by a host of lenses. So there's pluses and minuses. (But, ultimately, I kept the Minolta Alpha 9 and not the EOS 1V, for exactly the reason you gave.)
this is very old video but just in case anyone wondered this camera was so well made and did it's job so well they didnt stop manufacturing it until 2018, that is insane to me, a couple years ago you could go into a shop and buy one of these brand new. so cool. they still go for $600 and up
+Rob Villetto I believe that the 1V has better AF, including more cross-type sensors. The V also has different or better weather sealing. But there may be other differences of which I'm unaware.
A great film camera. Had one of these years ago. Amazing professional build quality. Nikon F5 is equally amazing, but is a beast. It's closest competitor is really the Nikon F6 which comes in at $900. Personally, I always found the Nikon controls more common sense. Still, any of the three would be great choices to get a pro level camera. At $500 the canon 1v is a solid choice.
What you have just stated are not really true. ATG suggests the one from his father's, Olympus OM-3 series & Pentax LX based on 35mm format. ATG says if you had one gun to pick, which one/model would you pick in combats? So those above cameras are the correct choices. If you said the AK-47, then are correct.
I own the EOS 3,1V, RS and the EOS 1N before I forget and I have taken them out recently to shoot with along with my Pentax 6 x 7 camera because I wanted to shoot them again but particularly black and white films which I believe is cheaper to use then digital.
B&W has a long cost recovery period. I should do a video looking at the economics of digital vs. color vs. B&W film. Depending on the film and whether it's in rolls o 100-foot spools, the cost time to catch up to didigtal varies. Digital will always be cheaper given a long use period. For instance, if someone wants to use a DSLR until the shutter dies over a six- or seven-year period, especially with a prosumer-grade body, digital would be cheaper in the long run. That said, digital is more damaging to the environment than film photography.
David Hancock thank you for your quick response I really appreciate it but I have often wonder in the short or long run what is the advantage or disadvantage of digital images and the processing of that image with the cost of software, the printer, and ink which from my experience you could have bought a whole new printer just by what it cost you to replace ink in your printer.I will be the first to admit there is a different feeling that I get looking at my image develop versus coming out of a printer. I do not believe there is any comparison maybe it's because I grew up in the 40s in the 50s looking at pictures from Life and Ebony magazine.
Hi David. I've become interested in finding the cameras which offer shutter speeds of 1/2 or better 1/3 stops. I got used to it shooting Fuji mirrorless, and I can't go back. Now that I'm shooting film too, I need to find which pro 35mm film cameras offer this. I've found options in medium format, and made a pricey decision in that regard... But is it Nikon F6, Canon EOS-1V, Pentax MV-S, or Minolta X-700? Or none at all. Can you save me a headache? This is one spec that no body mentions. For the reason of it didn't exist yet, except in the most advanced auto focus medium format cameras. I hope that's not the case. Thanks David. I hope you're doing really well :)
Take a look at the Minolta Alpha/Maxxum/Dynax 9. It's amazing. It shows switching between half and third stops with a dial on the camera. And I do have videos about those, too.
@@DavidHancock you have videos on ALL the cameras! YOU'RE AMAZING! Thank you so much for the reply. I'm going over to watch this video of yours right away~
The specs and user interface with the 1V seem very similar to the T90. The T90 has 4 stops ± in the finder display and a slightly higher drive speed (4.5). 1V adds evaluative meter & AF. Did multi spot meter disappear between these models? Thanks for the great videos.
I own three of these and use in all sorts of scenarios. Sports, travel, studio, etc. I've never once had to pull it away from my face to adjust aperture, shutter speed, auto focus, blah blah blah. I'm confused by your intimidation of this camera. Anyone saying this camera is complicated should know this is a professional level camera, very similar to 5D, and if you're not comfortable with that don't use it.
I'm not intimidated by it. The interface is needlessly complex. It's not designed to be readily adaptable to changing conditions but it is well suited to being set up a certain way and generally left alone with only minor changes. Since a lot of my shooting, especially when I mad this video, was full manual with no automatic camera control, I am less a fan of cameras that aren't readily adaptable to having settings changed on the fly. Especially frustrating for me is that on the best cameras I own, like the Minolta Alpha 9, Sony A7S II, and Pentax K-1, I can adjust most of the functions without taking my eye away from the viewfinder. That's simply not possible on a camera where functions are changed by pressing multiple buttons at once. That's the complaint, which I hope is better articulated here than in the video.
Hey David! Great video and thank you for the thorough review! Is it difficult to change the ISO, shutter speed, and focusing points? Does that require putting down the camera and figuring out multi button combinations? I'm trying to figure out if this is the right camera to get for fashion photography.
For me, yes. There are three buttons on the camera's top that either solo or in combination affect key settings. For me, I always have to look to see what I'm doing. I suppose someone very familiar with the interface could do it without looking away from the camera. Shutter speed, however, is easily adjusted without looking away from the camera. For fashion, I might suggest looking into medium format. The cost will be the same-ish and the results will stand out from the crowd. The Mamiya RB67, Pentax 67, Bronica S2A, Pentax 645 NII, and Mamiya C330F would all be worth looking at and none would be meaningfully more expensive then an EOS-1.
@David Hancock I'm torn between the Minolta Alpha 9, the EOS 1V and a Nikon F5/F6...Do You think of the Alpha 9 as a little less pro quality, in terms of build quality and also lens selection? I do realize i'm a little late to the party here, but worth a try :) anyway, great content as always, David.
@1:45 no 72% (or .72x) magnification viewfinder means that with a 50mm lens the viewfinder renders the subject at 72% the size of what your other eye sees it. That is the eye that is clear of the viewfinder. It has no relation to any size on the film. If the viewfinder shows the full frame, it will show a larger frame in the viewfinder the more magnification it has. The canon eos 7D has 100% magnification but has a cropped image and viewfinder. Therefore it shows subject in life size but the image in the viewfinder is smaller than in a full frame camera with 72% magnification viewfinder.
+jesperlett You are correct. And thank you for catching that. That was an error on my outline template and needs to be fixed before the next video. Thank you.
This camera is my dream camera and I’ve referred back to this video for help the last couple years using it. But my camera started doing this weird thing so I was hoping you might have some advice - it fires perfectly fine until I put a film roll inside, then it shoots one frame and freezes. I have to turn it off and then on again before it shoots, and now when I turn it on it fires off a frame before I even do anything. Super weird - any help or suggestions on what it could be?
Hmm. That is super weird. First thing I'd check is video 3 in this series -- see if there's some configuration item that's mis-set. If not, check with the Canon Forums to see if anyone there has experience with that. My big concern would be an electronics issue, which of the issue is progressing could be of concern. But it may well be sometime simple like the film advance IR port (not sure where, but somewhere in the film take up area) may just be dirty (that's my hope, and honestly I think a more likely candidate than electronics, and it would be an easy fix.)
Hi David, any recommendations on where to get one of these repaired? Been using one no problems for 6 months and suddenly the shutter got a bend it and won't close "all the way in time"
Hoo boy. I might ask a few different places -- the Fix Old Cameras channel here on RUclips, the Photo forum, too. For specific repair shops working on these, I'm not sure who is working on these. Canon might be able to recommend a shop, too.
@@DavidHancock hi David. In 2023, when it comes to electronic cameras 📸 that use film, which would you recommend? Go with a canon 1v or something else? I liked this one for all of those auto focus and servo features that you get with a 5d dslr series but this happens to do a lot of that with film.
@@DiosSaturn I'd compare this to the Nikon F5 and Minolta Alpha 9 and see which specs, size, and lens mount you're interested in. All three are great. It comes down to interface, size, weight, and lens mount as to which will be best for you.
Hi David, do you know if the EOS 1V works with modern Sigma lenses like the 105mm f/1.4 in terms of aperture? Do you know if the latest Canon zoom lenses can use IS on this body?
Don't quote me on this, but to the best of my knowledge the 1V will work with full-frame EF lenses that are on the market today in terms of aperture control and other core functions. EF-S lenses should not work (maybe not even mount) on this camera. I do not know, however, if in-lens IS works with the 1V.
I watched most of this video and it was okay, except for why on earth would one want to shoot film at 10.5 frames per second, and like you say 3 seconds and one has blown through a 36 exposure film. I noticed that the Canon EOS-1V doesn’t have mirror lock up, is that true? I feel that there are too many little buttons, so I will stick to the Nikon F4 and F5.
I can answer that. The 10.5 fps would have been ideal for sports photographers. If someone's photographing a basketball game for a newspaper or magazine, for example, they would need a three-second-ish burst to catch the drive to the net and then auto rewind so they could swap rolls before the next drive. Same basic concept with football or racing, etc. It's been years since I used this camera but I think they're was an MLU in the menu system. And yes, I completely agree that the interface is needlessly complex and the F4 and F5 are both much more user friendly. So is the Alpha (Maxxum, Dynax) 9. The small business can be hard to press and then button combinations mean the camera spends too much time away from the photographer's face when settings need to be changed.
How to tell if you have the ATG Canon EOS-1VHSr (very rare): * Have five speed mode selections plus self-timer (10 & 2 secs) * Runs on AA batteries or external ATG X Battery Adapter (making the camera very light) * Canon battery pack & charger are not needed * Wireless radio remote shutter trigger Notes: For extreme weathers, ATG recommends using AA Energizer Lithium Batteries Canon EOS-1VHS required Canon battery & charger to get 10fps (which many semi-pro didn't know) For the very extreme weathers, ATG recommends using ATG X Battery Adapter (external battery pack) That 10fps are a much when you are a working professional because you are paid to get results & excuses Tested & confirmed by ATG, scientists & me in Amazon jungle, Oymyakon & Vostok If we are out of batteries, we used the Olympus OM-1 & OM-3.
@@abstractpainters964 oh I understand. Those are reloadable cassettes. I spool my own black and white film and some of my cassettes are solid black. That's just how they were when I bought them.
I've been looking a lllll over the web to see if wireless TTL flash is possible... my mirror locks up whenever i try using wireless transmitters. any clue?
I would not. That will suck all the air out of the lens and when the air pressure returns the lens will suck in new air, and dust. Doing that repeatedly could cause the insides of your lenses to get very dusty and dirty quickly.
so if we put in this back the lens separeted from the body , with both lens cup on and the lens inside a small plastic bag that covers the lens alaround , that would be ok ?
Butkus is a good source, too, and he has everything posted in full for free. IIRC, Manuals Library charges (and I think some of their scans are from Butkus, IIRC.)
Oh please....the manual isn't that difficult to read or comprehend. Get your 1V and the manual and go through each chapter one at a time and familiarize yourself with its function. Don't skim over the manual and expect to know how it works. As a matter of fact when I take my EOS 5D MkII I the manual with me so that I can refer to it should I by chance forget how to set a function. Same with my EOS R, etc. For this guy the EOS 1V is too difficult to learn and master. Don't let him scare you away from using your own skills.
so if we put in this back the lens separeted from the body , with both lens cup on and the lens inside a small plastic bag that covers the lens alaround ,and than inside a Vacuum - Seal bag, would that be ok ?
I would still not use a vacuum-seal bag. The change in pressure from vacuum to not would pull dust into the lens each time the vacuum break. Same with the camera. Also, I'm not certain how well the gear would withstand the differential pressure between the atmospheric pressure pushing in on the camera and the lack of atmosphere internally. That probably wouldn't harm a camera, but I'm not 100% sure of that. Your best bet, if you want to use a plastic case (I use Pelican cases, for instance) is to keep a rechargeable dessicant pack in the container with the gear and keep the pack recharged when needed.
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Thanks for this series of videos, I recently purchased a 1V and have found your content extremely useful.
Thank you!
Do not store in heat. Great tip.
I learned about this the hard way with my EOS 650. The fluids got on my shutter blades and really turned me off canon for many years.
Then I found out that I had been the cause of the problem. So now Canon and Nikon share my studio together in harmony.
:D
Thanks for this series of videos. I recently purchased a 1V to do film photography. I have many, many Canon EF-compatible lenses that I use with Canon digital cameras, and this camera will allow me to leverage their value. Your video tutorials are really helpful.
Thank you, George!
Just picked this bad boy up (9/15/21) and this was extremely useful in helping me get started. Thank you for putting this together. Watched all three in videos!
Thank you!
Hey David, thanks for the great review of this body! It was very helpful. I was surprised to hear that you didn't feel like it was very intuitive. I'm a canon shooter through and through and I feel like this is the perfect body, for me, to make the switch to film. I shoot in Manual mode and my shutter & aperture & focus select buttons are all in the same place as my 5Diii and 6D, which makes it really really nice! I do feel like I can adjust settings without taking the camera off of my face, so maybe it's worth noting that if you are a canon shooter, it will be easier. Thanks again, David!
+tjsa krebs That's a good point. And I know from Canon shooters that they are more comfortable with the interface. Since I shoot mostly Pentax and Minolta, the interface theory I'm used to is a lot different. That said, I'll be giving this interface another go in the coming months as I test drive an EOS 3 that I picked up yesterday.
I agree about the interface. I really have a hell of a time getting used to Nikon and Sony and Fuji etc. Canon has the only control scheme that doesn't make me think, only react intuitively. I can't explain it. It just works without thought.
I been looking into these. One thing that is so hard with canon is telling when they produced there EOS cameras. can't tell from the serial numbers what year one was made. Not just an issue for EOS 1v, i believe. But i'd love to find a 2018 Eos-1v.
That would be an awesome find.
ATG assisted this camera and it's an improvement over the T90 & EOS-3.
This model comes in three versions:
1. ATG Canon EOS-1VHS (very rare only sold to elites & pros)
2. Canon EOS-1VHS
3. Canon EOS-1V
The #1 was modified to shoot up to 10fps without using Canon Battery Pack.
It is frozen & weather-sealed with HSS.
This ATG designs was the foundation of today modern Canon's top-of-the line camera, Canon EOS-1D C.
FYI:
15fps was the ATG Canon New F-1 High Speed Motor Drive (Gold HighEye Point)
14fps was the Canon New F-1 High Speed Motor Drive
These two use FD lenses while EOS uses ATG AF L lenses
+angelisone how do I know which version I have?
Thanks a lot for all the effort you put into these instruction videos! -- What I don't understand is the complaining about the fact that you have to take your camera down to change "modes". How do you change "modes" on other cameras? Without looking on the dials or display? Having used EOS3 cameras I find this one easy to use. Not that it takes better pictures. Because their quality depends on the lens and the film. But it is nice to handle.
I concur that the EOS 3 is harder to use than this one. MY problem with the EOS interface was always that it felt tech-y, not camera-y. For the new EOS R cameras, the one that I've used and others I've looked at incredible.
Ok, watched all three of the "Manual" videos last night. I wish you had told me this camera was so complicated before I bought it! :-) Great camera, but I can see it's going to be a challenge. You were exactly right, this camera was made for a pro who is making a living with the tool and spending many hours everyday with it. It's not, per se, a "Fun" camera.
+Rob Tillitz Yes, very true, but it is also exceedingly well made, engineered with great care, and supported by a host of lenses. So there's pluses and minuses. (But, ultimately, I kept the Minolta Alpha 9 and not the EOS 1V, for exactly the reason you gave.)
this is very old video but just in case anyone wondered this camera was so well made and did it's job so well they didnt stop manufacturing it until 2018, that is insane to me, a couple years ago you could go into a shop and buy one of these brand new. so cool. they still go for $600 and up
Oh yeah, definitely very well made cameras.
Thanks so much for this video, I bought the 1V on impulse as it was such a good price. When I saw the size of the users manual I almost cried
:D Thank you and same here.
Great video... hey David do you know the big difference between the Canon EOS 1V and Canon EOS 1N ? Thanks for any help.
+Rob Villetto I believe that the 1V has better AF, including more cross-type sensors. The V also has different or better weather sealing. But there may be other differences of which I'm unaware.
V was later like 2000, n was in 1994
A great film camera. Had one of these years ago. Amazing professional build quality. Nikon F5 is equally amazing, but is a beast. It's closest competitor is really the Nikon F6 which comes in at $900. Personally, I always found the Nikon controls more common sense. Still, any of the three would be great choices to get a pro level camera. At $500 the canon 1v is a solid choice.
$500 for these is a pretty good price still.
What you have just stated are not really true.
ATG suggests the one from his father's, Olympus OM-3 series & Pentax LX based on 35mm format.
ATG says if you had one gun to pick, which one/model would you pick in combats?
So those above cameras are the correct choices. If you said the AK-47, then are correct.
I own the EOS 3,1V, RS and the EOS 1N before I forget and I have taken them out recently to shoot with along with my Pentax 6 x 7 camera because I wanted to shoot them again but particularly black and white films which I believe is cheaper to use then digital.
B&W has a long cost recovery period. I should do a video looking at the economics of digital vs. color vs. B&W film. Depending on the film and whether it's in rolls o 100-foot spools, the cost time to catch up to didigtal varies. Digital will always be cheaper given a long use period. For instance, if someone wants to use a DSLR until the shutter dies over a six- or seven-year period, especially with a prosumer-grade body, digital would be cheaper in the long run. That said, digital is more damaging to the environment than film photography.
David Hancock thank you for your quick response I really appreciate it but I have often wonder in the short or long run what is the advantage or disadvantage of digital images and the processing of that image with the cost of software, the printer, and ink which from my experience you could have bought a whole new printer just by what it cost you to replace ink in your printer.I will be the first to admit there is a different feeling that I get looking at my image develop versus coming out of a printer. I do not believe there is any comparison maybe it's because I grew up in the 40s in the 50s looking at pictures from Life and Ebony magazine.
Hi David. I've become interested in finding the cameras which offer shutter speeds of 1/2 or better 1/3 stops. I got used to it shooting Fuji mirrorless, and I can't go back.
Now that I'm shooting film too, I need to find which pro 35mm film cameras offer this. I've found options in medium format, and made a pricey decision in that regard... But is it Nikon F6, Canon EOS-1V, Pentax MV-S, or Minolta X-700? Or none at all. Can you save me a headache? This is one spec that no body mentions. For the reason of it didn't exist yet, except in the most advanced auto focus medium format cameras. I hope that's not the case.
Thanks David. I hope you're doing really well :)
Take a look at the Minolta Alpha/Maxxum/Dynax 9. It's amazing. It shows switching between half and third stops with a dial on the camera. And I do have videos about those, too.
@@DavidHancock you have videos on ALL the cameras! YOU'RE AMAZING! Thank you so much for the reply. I'm going over to watch this video of yours right away~
@@JHurrenPhotography You're very welcome, James!
The specs and user interface with the 1V seem very similar to the T90. The T90 has 4 stops ± in the finder display and a slightly higher drive speed (4.5). 1V adds evaluative meter & AF. Did multi spot meter disappear between these models?
Thanks for the great videos.
Thank you and good question. I haven't used a T90 yet so I don't know.
I own three of these and use in all sorts of scenarios. Sports, travel, studio, etc. I've never once had to pull it away from my face to adjust aperture, shutter speed, auto focus, blah blah blah. I'm confused by your intimidation of this camera. Anyone saying this camera is complicated should know this is a professional level camera, very similar to 5D, and if you're not comfortable with that don't use it.
I'm not intimidated by it. The interface is needlessly complex. It's not designed to be readily adaptable to changing conditions but it is well suited to being set up a certain way and generally left alone with only minor changes. Since a lot of my shooting, especially when I mad this video, was full manual with no automatic camera control, I am less a fan of cameras that aren't readily adaptable to having settings changed on the fly. Especially frustrating for me is that on the best cameras I own, like the Minolta Alpha 9, Sony A7S II, and Pentax K-1, I can adjust most of the functions without taking my eye away from the viewfinder. That's simply not possible on a camera where functions are changed by pressing multiple buttons at once. That's the complaint, which I hope is better articulated here than in the video.
Hey David! Great video and thank you for the thorough review! Is it difficult to change the ISO, shutter speed, and focusing points? Does that require putting down the camera and figuring out multi button combinations? I'm trying to figure out if this is the right camera to get for fashion photography.
For me, yes. There are three buttons on the camera's top that either solo or in combination affect key settings. For me, I always have to look to see what I'm doing. I suppose someone very familiar with the interface could do it without looking away from the camera. Shutter speed, however, is easily adjusted without looking away from the camera.
For fashion, I might suggest looking into medium format. The cost will be the same-ish and the results will stand out from the crowd. The Mamiya RB67, Pentax 67, Bronica S2A, Pentax 645 NII, and Mamiya C330F would all be worth looking at and none would be meaningfully more expensive then an EOS-1.
Is this the same camera used by James Nachway in the documentary War Photographer????
Hard to tell from the photos I found online, but possibly.
@David Hancock I'm torn between the Minolta Alpha 9, the EOS 1V and a Nikon F5/F6...Do You think of the Alpha 9 as a little less pro quality, in terms of build quality and also lens selection? I do realize i'm a little late to the party here, but worth a try :) anyway, great content as always, David.
I only kept the Alpha 9, if that helps any. I've not used the F6, but the F5 videos are in the queue.
@@DavidHancock Thanks man, I'll wait for the f5 video.
@1:45 no 72% (or .72x) magnification viewfinder means that with a 50mm lens the viewfinder renders the subject at 72% the size of what your other eye sees it. That is the eye that is clear of the viewfinder. It has no relation to any size on the film. If the viewfinder shows the full frame, it will show a larger frame in the viewfinder the more magnification it has. The canon eos 7D has 100% magnification but has a cropped image and viewfinder. Therefore it shows subject in life size but the image in the viewfinder is smaller than in a full frame camera with 72% magnification viewfinder.
+jesperlett You are correct. And thank you for catching that. That was an error on my outline template and needs to be fixed before the next video. Thank you.
David Hancock and thank *you* for this video!
This camera is my dream camera and I’ve referred back to this video for help the last couple years using it.
But my camera started doing this weird thing so I was hoping you might have some advice - it fires perfectly fine until I put a film roll inside, then it shoots one frame and freezes. I have to turn it off and then on again before it shoots, and now when I turn it on it fires off a frame before I even do anything. Super weird - any help or suggestions on what it could be?
Hmm. That is super weird. First thing I'd check is video 3 in this series -- see if there's some configuration item that's mis-set. If not, check with the Canon Forums to see if anyone there has experience with that. My big concern would be an electronics issue, which of the issue is progressing could be of concern. But it may well be sometime simple like the film advance IR port (not sure where, but somewhere in the film take up area) may just be dirty (that's my hope, and honestly I think a more likely candidate than electronics, and it would be an easy fix.)
Appreciate the reply! I’ll give that a shot ✊🏼
Thanks for the video!
+Dmitro Baldr Thank you!
Hi David, any recommendations on where to get one of these repaired? Been using one no problems for 6 months and suddenly the shutter got a bend it and won't close "all the way in time"
Hoo boy. I might ask a few different places -- the Fix Old Cameras channel here on RUclips, the Photo forum, too. For specific repair shops working on these, I'm not sure who is working on these. Canon might be able to recommend a shop, too.
@@DavidHancock hi David. In 2023, when it comes to electronic cameras 📸 that use film, which would you recommend? Go with a canon 1v or something else?
I liked this one for all of those auto focus and servo features that you get with a 5d dslr series but this happens to do a lot of that with film.
@@DiosSaturn I'd compare this to the Nikon F5 and Minolta Alpha 9 and see which specs, size, and lens mount you're interested in. All three are great. It comes down to interface, size, weight, and lens mount as to which will be best for you.
Any chance of a T90 video??
I haven't ever gotten one of those. If I do, I would almost certainly make one for it.
Hi David, do you know if the EOS 1V works with modern Sigma lenses like the 105mm f/1.4 in terms of aperture? Do you know if the latest Canon zoom lenses can use IS on this body?
Don't quote me on this, but to the best of my knowledge the 1V will work with full-frame EF lenses that are on the market today in terms of aperture control and other core functions. EF-S lenses should not work (maybe not even mount) on this camera. I do not know, however, if in-lens IS works with the 1V.
David Hancock thank you sir!
I watched most of this video and it was okay, except for why on earth would one want to shoot film at 10.5 frames per second, and like you say 3 seconds and one has blown through a 36 exposure film.
I noticed that the Canon EOS-1V doesn’t have mirror lock up, is that true?
I feel that there are too many little buttons, so I will stick to the Nikon F4 and F5.
I can answer that. The 10.5 fps would have been ideal for sports photographers. If someone's photographing a basketball game for a newspaper or magazine, for example, they would need a three-second-ish burst to catch the drive to the net and then auto rewind so they could swap rolls before the next drive. Same basic concept with football or racing, etc.
It's been years since I used this camera but I think they're was an MLU in the menu system.
And yes, I completely agree that the interface is needlessly complex and the F4 and F5 are both much more user friendly. So is the Alpha (Maxxum, Dynax) 9. The small business can be hard to press and then button combinations mean the camera spends too much time away from the photographer's face when settings need to be changed.
Nice music: Chic.❤️.
I have this camera ayes it’s a pain, but I love it nevertheless.
Thank you!
Dude, leaving a nifty fifty on this gem is a crime.
But ... they're nifty.
How to tell if you have the ATG Canon EOS-1VHSr (very rare):
* Have five speed mode selections plus self-timer (10 & 2 secs)
* Runs on AA batteries or external ATG X Battery Adapter (making the camera very light)
* Canon battery pack & charger are not needed
* Wireless radio remote shutter trigger
Notes:
For extreme weathers, ATG recommends using AA Energizer Lithium Batteries
Canon EOS-1VHS required Canon battery & charger to get 10fps (which many semi-pro didn't know)
For the very extreme weathers, ATG recommends using ATG X Battery Adapter (external battery pack)
That 10fps are a much when you are a working professional because you are paid to get results & excuses
Tested & confirmed by ATG, scientists & me in Amazon jungle, Oymyakon & Vostok
If we are out of batteries, we used the Olympus OM-1 & OM-3.
Thank you!
Can anyone recommend a good focus screen that will help with manual focus on the 1v?
what is the minimum temprature cold and whats the higher hot , to store the camera ?
I don't recall the operating range, but it should exceed what most anyone will need.
What film was that? It looks different
Not sure because I used a bunch of different films.
@@DavidHancock why the film does not have labels. Like you spray paint it black?
@@abstractpainters964 oh I understand. Those are reloadable cassettes. I spool my own black and white film and some of my cassettes are solid black. That's just how they were when I bought them.
what was that burning stuff?
00 steel wool
I've been looking a lllll over the web to see if wireless TTL flash is possible... my mirror locks up whenever i try using wireless transmitters. any clue?
+ahuertaproject Sorry, no idea.
love how he said only 24 or 36 only ,last week i got 37 out of a film no probs at all even the counter was correct.
Yeah, there's a setting in video 3 that adjusts that and it was turned off for this camera which explains the one-frame discrepancy.
and plastic drybox is it ok to store the camera ?
With a rechargeable dessicant pack that you recharge when needed, yes.
thanks
This is a cool camera but the Nikon F100 is epic.
The F100 is pretty spectacular, yes.
one more q , with Vacuum - Seal bag is it ok ?
I would not. That will suck all the air out of the lens and when the air pressure returns the lens will suck in new air, and dust. Doing that repeatedly could cause the insides of your lenses to get very dusty and dirty quickly.
so if we put in this back the lens separeted from the body , with both lens cup on and the lens inside a small plastic bag that covers the lens alaround , that would be ok ?
😮❤
Where can i to buy that camera lens film era?
Most camera stores might have it as it's a common lens. eBay, KEH, and B&H are all good sources of used gear.
Looks like a 1DX with vertical grip cut rofl
+Carlton C That's a pretty good comparison. :D
Look at manual's library web Page.
Butkus is a good source, too, and he has everything posted in full for free. IIRC, Manuals Library charges (and I think some of their scans are from Butkus, IIRC.)
@@DavidHancock I knows butkus's Page, thank you, very much !
Oh please....the manual isn't that difficult to read or comprehend. Get your 1V and the manual and go through each chapter one at a time and familiarize yourself with its function. Don't skim over the manual and expect to know how it works.
As a matter of fact when I take my EOS 5D MkII I the manual with me so that I can refer to it should I by chance forget how to set a function. Same with my EOS R, etc.
For this guy the EOS 1V is too difficult to learn and master. Don't let him scare you away from using your own skills.
Not everyone learns well but reading. And there's no reason any of these videos would scare someone away from using a 1V.
so if we put in this back the lens separeted from the body , with both lens cup on and the lens inside a small plastic bag that covers the lens alaround ,and than inside a Vacuum - Seal bag, would that be ok ?
I would still not use a vacuum-seal bag. The change in pressure from vacuum to not would pull dust into the lens each time the vacuum break. Same with the camera. Also, I'm not certain how well the gear would withstand the differential pressure between the atmospheric pressure pushing in on the camera and the lack of atmosphere internally. That probably wouldn't harm a camera, but I'm not 100% sure of that. Your best bet, if you want to use a plastic case (I use Pelican cases, for instance) is to keep a rechargeable dessicant pack in the container with the gear and keep the pack recharged when needed.