So I've just ordered this set to go on my Late Production Tiger (actually my first stab at an 1/35 MBT) and finding this video was a godsend. Thanks very much for your clear and concise methods and tips - I feel a lot more confident in applying it now - Cheers!
No worries mate. Happy you found the video helpful. Tamiya are pretty good when it comes to their own After Market stuff for their kits. There are some small tricky bits, like around the vision ports etc, but take your time, and you shouldn't have any major dramas. Cheers!
Well Tim, you were just waiting for this terrific Tamiya solution, so set aside that JoHan Ambassador and get to Za-Zimmerin... Or wait until it gets made in 1/25 so you can use it on the Academy Panther placed on a Lowboy load for a Museum!
Yet another great video mate, the washing liquid is what I tend to use on decals, especially large ones as it gives time for adjustment but I would not have thought of using it with self adhesive decals. I am definitely going to get a Tiger and use this technique, many thanks.
Glad you liked the video! Plain water works fine but just adding a couple of drops of washing up liquid makes it so much easier to get the pieces into place! Cheers, and thanks for all the comments! Love 'em!
Thanks Pete for your very usefull tips! i'm beginning 1/48 tiger with such coating, and your method seems to be the best. Some prefer to cut the long parts (or complex ones), but it doesn't solve the difficulty to apply at the first try. Applying clear before weathering will probably secure fixing the coating. At last with enamel weathering.
Hi mate. Glad you found this video helpful. I think you're quite right. Applying a coat of overall clear should help seal the zimmerit onto the tank, especially using enamel weathering compounds which can sometimes effect the base paints underneath. Cheers!
That's okay. Time tends to be a precious commodity in this modern world. And they'll always be there on the channel for future viewing. Cheers, and hope you have a great Christmas!
Good tip about the dishwashing liquid for maneuverability - I will be trying these decals on the Dragon 6253 at some point, so I expect this will come in handy.
Your video and tips are awesome Pete! Thanks for what you do. So, if you have time I’d like to follow up with some comments below on enamel washes. I’m building the Tamiya Elefant and will apply the Tamiya Zimmerit decals. Normally, I apply a Mr. Surfacer primer, then Tamiya acrylic XF flat paint. I then let it dry and cure for 24 hours. Next, I brush on a wash consisting of Model Master (or similar) enamel thinner with a few drops of flat black enamel paint. Then I apply the model decals and finally spray a dull coat to reduce any shine from the decals. I have never had issues with the base acrylic paints.
Whoops-I wanted to ask you and your viewers if they have had any issues applying the enamel wash over the Zimmerit decals after the Zimmerit decals have been primed and painted with acrylics. Thanks!
@@briankeller8116 Hi Brian. Almost all of my paints, washes, and weathering, are Vallejo acrylics. The only enamel paint I have ever used is AK Interactive's Extreme Metal Chrome, which I used on my Miniart Mercedes Typ 170 sedan (see my 2022 Built Models video). So, personally, I can't say enamels do, or don't, cause any issues. I haven't heard of anything specific, but I have noticed that most modellers give their acrylic painted kits a gloss varnish, rather than a matt or semi-matt varnish, before applying enamel washes. Which makes sense since enamels are oil/solvent based, which might damage the water based acrylics, without some form of "solid" varnish protection. I think if you went down that path, it should be fine. Cheers!
These Zimm sheets are a lifesaver. Especially since Cavalier Zimmerit Sheets (from Australia) are no longer available due to the company closing. 😔😪 I did the Panther G with these. Came out really nice. Great vid, and Merry Christmas!!😎👍👍
an added note: if you end up with an air bubble (lighter surface color), poke a hole with x-acto tip or a sharp needle - one small drop xtra thin and press down to seal (it IS plastic, after all) to remove high spots or irregularities... also seals edges nicely Dane
Nice tutorial mate. My only concern is that how long will the adhesive backing keep it on for, will it eventually lift without glue? I’ve used ATAK zimmerit b4 but you are using actual glue to hold it on with.
Hi mate. This Tamiya Zimmerit is pretty hard wearing. I haven't experienced any "lifting" so far, on my kits. Tamiya's Zimmerit coating is quite hard wearing, being a thickish plastic, probably similar to the resin ones that ATAK make, maybe a little thicker, and the adhesive Tamiya uses, seems to hold on pretty well. Of course, in 10 years time, it might all fall off. I let you know then. :) Cheers!
I checked out a few other sites, just being curious and there are a few mixed results. I was more concerned about the durability in relation to the weathering process. I’ve done my own Zimmerit but was interested in just trying to ‘rebirth’ some old Tamiya king tiger and panther kits as I can’t really be bothered with spending the time on as they will only end up a wrecks.
@@michaeldean1289 I see what you mean. I only use water based acrylics for my weathering, and haven't had any problems so far. But, I can imagine, if an enamel wash, or weathering, maybe even an oil wash, was used, they might affect the adhesive enough to make the Zimmerit lift, especially if they've been thinned down using enamel thinners or similar. That might be something to look into for a future video. Cheers.
@@PetesKits Right, would be good to find out the properties of the adhesive base, like solvent affect. What of hitting corners, edges with thin cyano - like a sealer, or permanent cure? Or we all pretty much have to wait -n- see... Thanks for demo!
@@goratgo1970 Can't help you on the solvent side, as I use Vallejo paints, and weathering effects, which are all water based, and they don't seem to affect it one little bit. So maybe someone else could help with that. As for sealing the ends with cyano. Can't see a problem with that, although again, I only use that for PE parts, but if used on the corners etc. it should reinforce the grip, and make a fairly permanent seal. Cheers!
That's Takom's Production/"What If" Tiger II? If you use Tamiya's King Tiger Zimmerit sheet, (Tamiya Part No. 300012), same techniques I've used for the Tiger I Zimmerit sheet in this video will work. Although being a Tamiya part on a Takom kit, you may have to do some adjusting, and alterations. Especially if you build the "what if?" variant, which has some different parts to the standard Tiger II. Hope this helps! Cheers!
@PetesKits Yes, thanks. And sorry, I had confused the sheet model you show in the video with the one I needed. And yes, the model I needed was the Tamiya 300012 that you told me, but I found it with another Tamiya code 12648, so it would fit the Takom King Tiger 2130 model, thank you very much for you Help.
I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work with the Academy Tiger. There might be some slight alterations that need to be made, but otherwise it should be fine. Cheers!
My main issue is with the decals, the german crosses and numbers always look odd when i apply them on zimmerit, i noticed forces of valor uses paint to make them when they're done on zimmerit, that could be interesting to try
Yes, this is the main issue with decals on Zimmerit. Whether the Zimmerit is PE, plastic, or like these Tamiya ones, a self adhesive. Crosses and numbers, etc. take a bit of work, even with a decal softener, to sit, and look, right, especially with thick decals, like Tamiya tends to have, they don't stretch enough, to mould to the Zimmerit correctly. Painting, although more time consuming, and a little trickier, is probably the best way to get "the look" right. I've done it (took a few goes to get it spot on), and it does look better, and there's no decal "shine" to contend with. It's definitely worth giving it a go. Cheers!
Thanks for the vid. I'm about to use Tamiya's zimmerit on my King Tiger for the first time. What about spraying Mr Surfacer over it? Have you had any issues from things like that?
Hi mate. Don't know about Mr Surfacer, as I only use Vallejo acrylic primers etc. for my kits ( I have small working space and the smell enamels/lacquers can be overpowering), and have never had a problem with them. As I understand it Mr Surfacer is lacquer based, so I'm not sure. Best way to check would be to try it out on the flat bottom of the kit, using an offcut of the zimmerit sheet, where you won't see it if something goes wrong. Sorry I can't help you more! Cheers!
@@PetesKits did a test tonight with scrap Zimmerit on styrene and sprayed a coat of MrSurfacer 1200 over it and it seems to be fine. No lifting. FYI for anyone here who wants to know.
Great Video. This is going to help my a lot as I attempt zimmerit for the first time. Cheers!
Thanks mate! Glad you found this helpful! Cheers!
So I've just ordered this set to go on my Late Production Tiger (actually my first stab at an 1/35 MBT) and finding this video was a godsend. Thanks very much for your clear and concise methods and tips - I feel a lot more confident in applying it now - Cheers!
No worries mate. Happy you found the video helpful. Tamiya are pretty good when it comes to their own After Market stuff for their kits. There are some small tricky bits, like around the vision ports etc, but take your time, and you shouldn't have any major dramas. Cheers!
Glad I watched this before assembling mine 👍🏻 great tips
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful! Cheers!
Nice vid Pete, I still haven't built a tank with Zimmerit but will someday.
Thanks Tim. You could always add Zimmerit to one of your car builds. Now, that would be something different! :) Cheers mate!
Well Tim, you were just waiting for this terrific Tamiya solution, so set aside that JoHan Ambassador and get to Za-Zimmerin...
Or wait until it gets made in 1/25 so you can use it on the Academy Panther placed on a Lowboy load for a Museum!
@@goratgo1970 👍👍🙂
Yet another great video mate, the washing liquid is what I tend to use on decals, especially large ones as it gives time for adjustment but I would not have thought of using it with self adhesive decals. I am definitely going to get a Tiger and use this technique, many thanks.
Glad you liked the video! Plain water works fine but just adding a couple of drops of washing up liquid makes it so much easier to get the pieces into place! Cheers, and thanks for all the comments! Love 'em!
Thanks Pete for your very usefull tips!
i'm beginning 1/48 tiger with such coating, and your method seems to be the best. Some prefer to cut the long parts (or complex ones), but it doesn't solve the difficulty to apply at the first try.
Applying clear before weathering will probably secure fixing the coating. At last with enamel weathering.
Hi mate. Glad you found this video helpful. I think you're quite right. Applying a coat of overall clear should help seal the zimmerit onto the tank, especially using enamel weathering compounds which can sometimes effect the base paints underneath. Cheers!
Great tip with the water and dishwasher soap
Awesome video mate, I have this Zimmerit and will be putting it on my Tamiya Mid Tiger 1 soon, thanks for the tips on how to apply it 👍
No worries! glad you found this helpful. Just take your time and you should haven't any major dramas! Cheers!
Thanks very much, this was very helpfull, allways been affraid to apply zimmerit, but now i feel a lot more confident !!
Thanks. Really happy that you found this video handy. Cheers! Happy Zimmeriting!
Very useful. Thanks.
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful! Cheers!
Great video mate, i found this extremely useful.
Thanks mate. Appreciate that. Glad you found it helpful. Cheers !
Sadly i had no time last year to watch your vids i always wanted to See your builds
That's okay. Time tends to be a precious commodity in this modern world. And they'll always be there on the channel for future viewing. Cheers, and hope you have a great Christmas!
@@PetesKits thanks, i wish you a happy christmas to
Good tip about the dishwashing liquid for maneuverability - I will be trying these decals on the Dragon 6253 at some point, so I expect this will come in handy.
Thanks. Glad you found this helpful! Cheers!
Your video and tips are awesome Pete! Thanks for what you do.
So, if you have time I’d like to follow up with some comments below on enamel washes. I’m building the Tamiya Elefant and will apply the Tamiya Zimmerit decals. Normally, I apply a Mr. Surfacer primer, then Tamiya acrylic XF flat paint. I then let it dry and cure for 24 hours. Next, I brush on a wash consisting of Model Master (or similar) enamel thinner with a few drops of flat black enamel paint. Then I apply the model decals and finally spray a dull coat to reduce any shine from the decals. I have never had issues with the base acrylic paints.
Whoops-I wanted to ask you and your viewers if they have had any issues applying the enamel wash over the Zimmerit decals after the Zimmerit decals have been primed and painted with acrylics. Thanks!
@@briankeller8116 Hi Brian. Almost all of my paints, washes, and weathering, are Vallejo acrylics. The only enamel paint I have ever used is AK Interactive's Extreme Metal Chrome, which I used on my Miniart Mercedes Typ 170 sedan (see my 2022 Built Models video). So, personally, I can't say enamels do, or don't, cause any issues. I haven't heard of anything specific, but I have noticed that most modellers give their acrylic painted kits a gloss varnish, rather than a matt or semi-matt varnish, before applying enamel washes. Which makes sense since enamels are oil/solvent based, which might damage the water based acrylics, without some form of "solid" varnish protection. I think if you went down that path, it should be fine. Cheers!
Thank you sir, very well explained.
Thank you. Very much appreciated.
Thanks Pete
These Zimm sheets are a lifesaver. Especially since Cavalier Zimmerit Sheets (from Australia) are no longer available due to the company closing. 😔😪 I did the Panther G with these. Came out really nice. Great vid, and Merry Christmas!!😎👍👍
Thanks mate. Glad you liked it. have a great Christmas yourself! Cheers!
You can make your own style with all imperfections which real have) Merry Christmas)
an added note: if you end up with an air bubble (lighter surface color), poke a hole with x-acto tip or a sharp needle - one small drop xtra thin and press down to seal (it IS plastic, after all) to remove high spots or irregularities... also seals edges nicely Dane
Thanks for the tip! good idea! Cheers!
Nice tutorial mate.
My only concern is that how long will the adhesive backing keep it on for, will it eventually lift without glue?
I’ve used ATAK zimmerit b4 but you are using actual glue to hold it on with.
Hi mate. This Tamiya Zimmerit is pretty hard wearing. I haven't experienced any "lifting" so far, on my kits. Tamiya's Zimmerit coating is quite hard wearing, being a thickish plastic, probably similar to the resin ones that ATAK make, maybe a little thicker, and the adhesive Tamiya uses, seems to hold on pretty well. Of course, in 10 years time, it might all fall off. I let you know then. :) Cheers!
I checked out a few other sites, just being curious and there are a few mixed results.
I was more concerned about the durability in relation to the weathering process.
I’ve done my own Zimmerit but was interested in just trying to ‘rebirth’ some old Tamiya king tiger and panther kits as I can’t really be bothered with spending the time on as they will only end up a wrecks.
@@michaeldean1289 I see what you mean. I only use water based acrylics for my weathering, and haven't had any problems so far. But, I can imagine, if an enamel wash, or weathering, maybe even an oil wash, was used, they might affect the adhesive enough to make the Zimmerit lift, especially if they've been thinned down using enamel thinners or similar. That might be something to look into for a future video. Cheers.
@@PetesKits Right, would be good to find out the properties of the adhesive base, like solvent affect. What of hitting corners, edges with thin cyano - like a sealer, or permanent cure? Or we all pretty much have to wait -n- see... Thanks for demo!
@@goratgo1970 Can't help you on the solvent side, as I use Vallejo paints, and weathering effects, which are all water based, and they don't seem to affect it one little bit. So maybe someone else could help with that. As for sealing the ends with cyano. Can't see a problem with that, although again, I only use that for PE parts, but if used on the corners etc. it should reinforce the grip, and make a fairly permanent seal. Cheers!
Super merci pour le tuyau
Thank you. Glad you found this helpful!
You know, if this would work with the takom 2130 model?
That's Takom's Production/"What If" Tiger II? If you use Tamiya's King Tiger Zimmerit sheet, (Tamiya Part No. 300012), same techniques I've used for the Tiger I Zimmerit sheet in this video will work. Although being a Tamiya part on a Takom kit, you may have to do some adjusting, and alterations. Especially if you build the "what if?" variant, which has some different parts to the standard Tiger II. Hope this helps! Cheers!
@PetesKits
Yes, thanks. And sorry, I had confused the sheet model you show in the video with the one I needed.
And yes, the model I needed was the Tamiya 300012 that you told me, but I found it with another Tamiya code 12648, so it would fit the Takom King Tiger 2130 model, thank you very much for you Help.
@@krong7279 No worries. Anytime. Cheers mate!
This set will work with the academy late tiger kit? Thanks
I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work with the Academy Tiger. There might be some slight alterations that need to be made, but otherwise it should be fine. Cheers!
@@PetesKits thank you
My main issue is with the decals, the german crosses and numbers always look odd when i apply them on zimmerit, i noticed forces of valor uses paint to make them when they're done on zimmerit, that could be interesting to try
Yes, this is the main issue with decals on Zimmerit. Whether the Zimmerit is PE, plastic, or like these Tamiya ones, a self adhesive. Crosses and numbers, etc. take a bit of work, even with a decal softener, to sit, and look, right, especially with thick decals, like Tamiya tends to have, they don't stretch enough, to mould to the Zimmerit correctly. Painting, although more time consuming, and a little trickier, is probably the best way to get "the look" right. I've done it (took a few goes to get it spot on), and it does look better, and there's no decal "shine" to contend with. It's definitely worth giving it a go. Cheers!
Thanks for the vid. I'm about to use Tamiya's zimmerit on my King Tiger for the first time. What about spraying Mr Surfacer over it? Have you had any issues from things like that?
Hi mate. Don't know about Mr Surfacer, as I only use Vallejo acrylic primers etc. for my kits ( I have small working space and the smell enamels/lacquers can be overpowering), and have never had a problem with them. As I understand it Mr Surfacer is lacquer based, so I'm not sure. Best way to check would be to try it out on the flat bottom of the kit, using an offcut of the zimmerit sheet, where you won't see it if something goes wrong. Sorry I can't help you more! Cheers!
@PetesKits thanks foe the reply. I'll try some off cut on a scrap piece and see how it does.
@@joshuaparsons1377 Hope it works okay! Cheers!
@@PetesKits did a test tonight with scrap Zimmerit on styrene and sprayed a coat of MrSurfacer 1200 over it and it seems to be fine. No lifting. FYI for anyone here who wants to know.
@@joshuaparsons1377 Thanks for the update mate. Good to know that MrSurfacer is good to use. Cheers for that! Have a great Christmas & New Year!
Just make your own with putty and zimmerit brushes
Сool!)😊