Hey brother will you please make a valve cover or timing cover videos? Since first buying mine, i have installed the catch can, done alot of work with it. I did the pcv valve as suggested before, my own brakes, some decorative for the hood, oxygen sensors, all around keeping oil changed with At 205 stop leak. She's running great but still needs the valve covers done because of a little burning oil. It's definitely not as bad as it was at first, thank god i had it drilled to spec. Your video really has helped. God bless 🙏
@@camaromodschannel Thank you. I have a 2011 3.6 that has a leak I can smell from the back of the engine. Gotta scope it to make sure it's coming from the T-state housing.
You have to have an adapter/spacer to do this. And the TB needs to be rewired if I recall correctly since they don't have the same plug. Jacfab used to have a spacer that also allowed you do do this but I don't know if that is available any longer. You need the evap that goes to the respective year but it plugs right in. A) The bolt pattern is slightly different, and B) the ports are a different shape. Enter the Adaptolator. The idea is that the first piece bolts onto the LLT engine, and the second piece bolts to the first and has the LFX bolt pattern. The ports on the Adaptolator will also have a nice transition from the LFX port shape to the LLT port shape... The pros as I see them: 1)LFX manifold is composite, so lighter weight, and a nice reduction of heat soak issues 2)Higher flow, and more velocity as stated by SC2150. This is always good. 3)The Adaptolator is appx. 1" or ~25mm thick, so much like the isolators currently available, the longer runner length will increase lower end torque. 4) More power?! Cons? None that I can see? Potential problems: 1) The vacuum lines and things like that aren't in the same locations, however this should be an easy fix 2) NO LONGER A PROBLEM
Excellent video I hope you make one showing how to change the injectors on a Camaro
Thanks, yes, that's a great idea.
Thank you for taking the time of removing the intake… just to show us how to do it !!!!!!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
beyond helpful, gonna try to replace the thermostat tomorrow and this is the best video for removing the manifold that i have found
Thank you Sir. Glad I could help.
Question? Why were you replacing your thermostat?
@@carlmaro it was overheating after a coolant change, so i flushed and replaced it
Thanks for the video step by step instructions what I like to see got mine out snaking 👍
Your welcome, thanks
Hey brother will you please make a valve cover or timing cover videos? Since first buying mine, i have installed the catch can, done alot of work with it. I did the pcv valve as suggested before, my own brakes, some decorative for the hood, oxygen sensors, all around keeping oil changed with At 205 stop leak. She's running great but still needs the valve covers done because of a little burning oil. It's definitely not as bad as it was at first, thank god i had it drilled to spec. Your video really has helped. God bless 🙏
What, changing the valve cover gaskets? Thanks.
This helps keep the car running cooler to great mod.
Yes, thanks
the hose at minute 2:51 what is it called?
Vacuum line? from pvc to intake manifold.
Question?
Does coolant flow through that intake or No ?
No, only gas and oil vapors, thanks
@@camaromodschannel Thank you. I have a 2011 3.6 that has a leak I can smell from the back of the engine. Gotta scope it to make sure it's coming from the T-state housing.
Yes, the thermostat housing is in the back of the engine. You may have a leak. If you can smell it. Thanks
Is the plastic 1 & the aluminum 1 fully swappable without issues?
You have to have an adapter/spacer to do this. And the TB needs to be rewired if I recall correctly since they don't have the same plug. Jacfab used to have a spacer that also allowed you do do this but I don't know if that is available any longer.
You need the evap that goes to the respective year but it plugs right in.
A) The bolt pattern is slightly different, and B) the ports are a different shape. Enter the Adaptolator. The idea is that the first piece bolts onto the LLT engine, and the second piece bolts to the first and has the LFX bolt pattern. The ports on the Adaptolator will also have a nice transition from the LFX port shape to the LLT port shape...
The pros as I see them:
1)LFX manifold is composite, so lighter weight, and a nice reduction of heat soak issues
2)Higher flow, and more velocity as stated by SC2150. This is always good.
3)The Adaptolator is appx. 1" or ~25mm thick, so much like the isolators currently available, the longer runner length will increase lower end torque.
4) More power?!
Cons? None that I can see?
Potential problems:
1) The vacuum lines and things like that aren't in the same locations, however this should be an easy fix
2) NO LONGER A PROBLEM
What was the lbs to torque it back down ?
18 ft lbs
Thank you
It be like that sometimes.
Yes, thanks.