That's fantastic to hear! Enjoy the build, it's very rewarding! Thank you very much, I really appreciate you taking the time to write this comment! 🤗👌👍🙏
Hi, Mark. Excellent video. I've mentioned to you before that I'm back into the hobby after about 3 decades, and I'm currently building the TT-02 Audi Quattro. I'm almost done and I just wanted to mention again how wonderful and helpful your videos on the subject have been. Some great ideas and mods that have saved me from spending way too much on hop-ups. Your method has made it far more enjoyable for me. It's really fun to see how much you can improve the car without bathing it in blue aluminum. Thank you so much. Your work is much appreciated.
Hi Marino - thank you once again for the very kind words, it's so encouraging to me and very much appreciated. Great to hear you've found the mods and tips useful, as it's exactly why I make these videos. Wishing you a great 2022, all the best from Mark... 👍
This is the kinda stuff that makes the hobby so fun. Gotta try this suspension mods myself. Road cars are super fun on a track but rally cars or buggy's are so much more usable. Just bash around on any ground where street cars get stuck. I have cut out a thin piece of plastic and put over all the holes that you covered with glue. It is held down by the arms that joins the steering components. Works well also.
Thank you for the detailed series on this, converting my drift setup to rally (because why not, easily switch it back) and it's helped me under stand the differences and tricks between the setups.
Glad it helped, Trevor! Yes, I also swap the settings on my TT02's, and have used my TT02D for light rally running. Such a versatile chassis. All the best from Mark - cheers! :)
I was wondering.... I woke up, saw Rob's Friday Video, but not yours. 😞 Then I spent half the day in Physical Therapy, come home, and there you are!!! 😁😊 Great Tips me Mukka. Notably the 2 holes in the side to Zip Tie the ESC Switch on!!!👌🏆 I should be Jealous, but I've got far too much Respect for you... You've got almost 4mm more clearance than my TT-02!! I might have to apply the Mark Bryan touch! 👍👍 Cheers my dear Friend! 😊 Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Hi Carmine - yeah, as I was saying, getting a bit behind of late, but still wanted a Friday upload this week - glad I did as it's doing pretty well at the moment. Thanks for tuning in bro - always a pleasure to read ya. The clearance is pretty good now, about what I expected and enough for a bit of rallying - we'll find out soon. Take care, mukka. :))
😁👍Nice that's exactly how I have mine set up also but I have the aluminum front steering blocks so I did not cut the bottoms off them, my rears the same but I left my shocks in the inner hole on the shock tower 👍 Nice how to Mark!
Hiya Steve - I may look at the alloy blocks at some point, just trying to save a little cash at the moment! Thanks for the comment - all the best to you my friend! :-)
@@MarkBryanRC yea I broke the front blocks 2 times and then said it's time for aluminum ones, I don't like using aluminum parts only in spots that they would actually be better because most all times they make things worse.
I just got my kit in the mail. Can't wait to put it together, and tear it up . 😆. I went ahead and ordered some crucial performance hopups. Aluminum drive shaft Yeah racing adjustable motor mount Yeah racing spur adapter Aluminum adjustable oil dampers 2s lipo These few hopups will take this kit from decent to wicked. The YR motor mount and adjustable spur adapter allows you to run 64 pitch gears, and really wakes up the tuned Tamiya motor.
Hey mark. I'm converting my son's TTO2 to rally and thought to myself. I think I remember mark having a video about this. I've tried some of these changes. The only thing I changed was I used the same spacer on top and bottom because I had a extra instead of washers.
Hi there Kevin and thanks for remembering this video. I hope your rally conversion goes well, a nice change after all this on-road speed running! Yep, I did the same with those spacers on another build! 😎👊👍
Was going to wait until tomorrow morning to watch this while I had my coffee, but I simply could not resist! Great tips on this versatile chassis Mark! It’s going to be super cool when you’re finished! Great job my friend!👍😊
Hello Jeremy my friend! Hehe, glad you watched straight away! Yeah, I really enjoyed this build, trying out a few tweaks and veering away from the manual makes it more "my own build". Looking forward to the first spin, fingers crossed it all works OK. Thanks for the awesome comment dude! :))
Hello mark excellent video mate just done all the modifications to my tamiya tt02 which started life as a buggy bought the parts to convert it . I put the alloy propshaft and cups in mine as the standard one wobbles a bit . all the best mate take care
Hi Coryn and great to hear from you again! Good to hear that you got all the mods done, hope all is working well for you mate. Yeah, the alloy propshaft is a great option. All the best to you, too! :))
Wow Mark some great improvements here. I must say you've got more guts than me in chopping off ( filing down ) parts of a Tamiya chassis, and somehow knowing everything will be fine. Obviously it's down to experience and you obviously think like an engineer. I fully agree with your analysis of the kit shocks, those springs really were too thick with way too much rigidity in them - as you said pretty useless. Anyway what surprised me most was the addition of the heat sink. I'm assuming that motor was a 540 silver can ? If so I'm amazed a heat sink is needed. Ultimately though I suppose all motors need all the help they can get especially in hot weather. As always I'm very much looking forward to your bodyshell video. Those lexan shells really do take some fiddly, tiresome and specialised work and you really are a master with them. I know upfront you'll produce a beauty. Anyway have a great weekend dude..👍🏻.
Hiya mate! Yeah, it's always with a little trepidation when I start chopping Tamiya kit parts, as I usually don't have a spare in case it goes wrong! But as I say, slowly, slowly, keep checking before it gets past the point of no return! Ahh, the heat sink - yeah never really get a problem running on road, but a few of my rally cars are running higher than stock gearing off road. If the terrain has hills, grass or mud I find it puts drag on the car and the motors do get hot. Haven't started the body yet, just getting over returning to work full time! I'll take my time over that and do it in stages, I really enjoy that part of a build. All the best to you, hope the weekend's going well for you too mate. :-)
Very useful tips. I'm thinking a nice set of universal shafts are in order but any serious rc'er is thinking that as soon as the silver can gets replaced.
Thank you, Paul. Yes, I agree that UJ's would be a good addition to the drivetrain on this one, I need to start saving a little cash! All the best from Mark...
Hi Mark,this never gets old,lol , I just love re watching these videos. I should really be building my car and watching this video at the same time. I actually got round to painting the Audi TT01E body, i don’t know what happened...... but the silver turned out to be chrome looking, and I think it looks killer. I covered the silver with black, maybe that’s what made it look chrome. Still gotta do the decals though, grrrr 😖
Hiya, Mikey! Thanks for rewatching, it all helps! That body of yours sounds great, and a very nice turn of luck that the finish is a killer chrome look! Come on mate - get those decals stuck on!!! Good luck with them, I've got my fingers crossed for ya! :))
And thank you, Aldy! I'm very happy to hear that the videos were helpful and I appreciate the feedback. I hope you have lots of enjoyment from your Ford Escort. Best regards from Mark... :)
Great video, love the mods. I think the black motor cover you was talking about is designed to fit a fan onto, to blow air directly down onto the motor. ☺️
Hi Jonathan! Thank you! Yeah, the motor cover can take a fan, but if you don't intend to fit one, leave the cover off! But you are correct, if you have a fan that might be even better for cooling the motor! Thanks for the great comment and happy RCing! :D
Good stuff Mark, the TT-02 chassis is a cheap one to build, with those tricks i don't have to use a TA-02 chassis for my Audi A2 body. Cheers to you and Rob for sharing those tips & tricks. Pints are on me.
Cheers, Bob! Yeah, it is cheap but I think it will perform as needed after the few cheap mods - no point spending hundreds on a 100 pound car! Hope your build goes well for that lovely Audi body. Looking forward to that pint! Bottom's up my friend! :))
Very informative, very well filmed and narrated. :) Good tips 👍 thank you. :) It helped me build mine easier and with your tips hopefully more capable.
Hello my friend Derek. Thanks for the kind words, if only Tamiya would take note of what their fans are doing, and incorporate some factory improvements - but I fear we will be making our own mods for a long time to come! :-)
That is a serious increase in both clearance and travel! That'll be perfect for my GTA build. Thanks again for finding such a wonderful, and fairly simple solution.
Hello my friend. Yes, 25mm is good enough for most dirt and gravel tracks! Enjoy your GTA build, a very nice kit. I appreciate your kind comments, best regards from Mark... :)
Great video sir! It helped me build my Peugeot 306 maxi Monte Carlo into a more rally friendly chassis. Thank you for the content ! New sub deserved ! (I'm new to tamiya world been an HPI guy for decades )
Hooray you got it loaded up and it's still Friday! Really useful stuff. I had noticed the fact that the lumpy bit poked down by the front wheels but had never thought to do anything about it. Likewise I hadn't noticed that the steering is limited by that lug. I really need to go through my TT-02 and do the bits and bobs from parts 1 and 2 of your vids. I just got a set of the Chinese rally block tyres today and have put them on the gold wheels that Derek gave me. The Subaru now looks the business! Going RC'ing tomorrow which will be good hopefully. Glad you made it through work ok this week. I look forward to seeing your Subaru finished. Have you got any plans for the weekend or are you just recovering? Cheers for now mate 😀 🍺🍺🍺
Hiya Pete - hope all is good down south! Yeah, lot's of problems trying to render and upload this one - thanks for commenting after the long wait! Yeah, I really studied this build hard as it was supposed to be a "how-to!" Got lot's of ideas from the type-S build and Rob's Lancia, plus a thread posted by one of the commenters on this video. Lot's of info out there. Those Chinese tyres are very good - cool you got some wheels from Derek (Top Bloke!) Hope to see your Scoobie soon! Totally knackered mate, finding it hard to do work and RUclips at the same time after such a long break, I will slow down on here for a bit I think, lots coming up at home this month. Chilling today and more jobs to do at home tomorrow, don't know when this body is going to get done! Have a good one my mate! :)
A lot of people remove the motor cover on the tt02 / tt02b but for extra cooling your supposed to fit a 30mm fan on the top, the fan lines up exactly on the four holes. ( remove the small cover )
Thanks Mark. Some brilliant ideas there! It’s disappointing that Tamiya call a it kit a “rally kit” and it needs to be modified some much to get some rally pedigree. I’m building the TT02 Motul Autech road kit and was surprised by the lack of suspension travel. It’s been blinged up a bit with alloy components and the obligatory bearings. But it’s barely above toy grade with a lot of it’s out of the box parts being what I would call below par. Happy driving mate! 👍🤓🇦🇺
Hiya, Paul. Yeah, it sure looks like a rally cart and comes with the right tyres, but would you believe, in the manual is a warning that this kit is not designed to be run off-road!!! Crazy, my friend! That Motul Autech sounds like a sweet project, love the bodywork on that one, too. Agreed, too many under-par parts in this TT02 kit. Take care, mate. :)
You should, Mikael, I keep saying you need a rally car to run in that big garden of yours, and perhaps a trip to the beach? Thanks for the amazing support my friend, I enjoy reading your comments very much! I hope you and your family are doing well. :)
Hi, excellent vids and still being watched in 2023! What M size are the 10mm cap heads , I'd like to upgrade them and want to order some. And are they the only size cap heads I'd need? Cheers.
Thanks very much! All of the screws are M3 on this kit. Most are 10mm long but there are a few 8mm, 12mm and 15mm. I only changed the 10 and 12mm screws. But then they are pretty cheap if you look around on eBay. Cheers!
Mark, congratulations! Your work is awesome! It’s clear, it’s precise and above all it’s ingenious. Congratulations and thank you for sharing this with the community. I’m going to carefully keep this series of videos under the elbow for a future build. Obviously I’m looking forward to seeing your work on the bodywork which, I’m sure, will be great too. I’m sure Mr. Burns will be happy to see that we don’t forget him through our hobby. Have a great weekend. Take care mon ami.
Hello, Alex, thanks for always leaving a wonderful comment. I hope one day I will see a TT02 Subaru navigating your fantastic race track, in rally trim! Yes, I will think of Richard Burns every time I drive this little 1/10 vehicle. I hope you are feeling rested, mon ami - try not to work too hard! :-)
Awesome video Mark! Your build explanination is clear, insighful , indeed very helpful to me as a begineer. I've been watching your build video serveral times & love it. Me too! can't wait to start building my new TT-02 follow your setup guide. Thanks buddy~ take care.
Awesome, thank you Louis, you are too kind! Great to hear you have enjoyed my videos and good luck with your TT02 build, I'm sure you will enjoy it. Thanks again and best to you, buddy! 😎👌👍
Nice tips Mark! It's great to make a rally beast out of the TT-02s. I wish they would be a little bit more durable (especially the steering and the steering hubs). Well done my friend and have a great weekend 👍👍
Hiya, Charlie! Thanks for the great comment as always. Well I hope my steering holds up, this is the first basic TT02 I have ever set up for rallying. It's going to be fun finding out how she goes. A super weekend to you too my good friend! :-)
minute 5 i ve actually used a rotary tool as I didn t have a file, measured the pieces with a vernier,taped it at right length 2 min job. Thx Mark great tips
@@MarkBryanRC i did exactly how you were showing in the video and grinded off as you were showing, however when after position the front dampers you squeeze them it seems like you have more room, maybe i chopped them too much as I had to use the shorter eyelet to fix the dampers to the 5mm pin ball as with the longer ones the damper was too tight with very little room. It might be ok, but still get an extra A1 set just in case. They seem a bit too tight on the suspension,meaning that the piece A14 if pushed down doesn't go past the chassis 's level. Hope i didn't stuff it 😂
@@edoardobarzano978 Strange we have different gaps! Hi Edoardo! I hope you can get it sorted out, I'm sure it's something simple. I think you will have more ground clearance anyway, which is the whole point of the mod. All the best! :)
@@MarkBryanRC they looked the same length as yours in the video, but maybe I went 2-3mm too deep... basically the front lower arm does not go lower than the chassis hight unless pushed hard.... i ve ordered the spare part not tto sure if it s needed though, just thought I follow your video-advice and yours look like they can go lower than the chassis's height... Thanks again Mark... will keep you posted.
Thanks for the update, Edoardo. Yes, my lower arms go lower than the chassis. I'm sure you will find a solution! It will be good to know how you get on. I hope mine runs OK when I test it - we will soon see! :)
Hi Gio! I got them from eBay, here is a link: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-3mm-ISO-7380-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-SOCKET-BUTTON-HEAD-ALLEN-KEY-SCREW-BOLTS/221107048515?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 You need to select "M3" and the length you want, I got 10mm, 12mm and 15mm All the best, Mark...
Great tips. Do you think 70mm shocks will fit? I have front metal CVDs. Also since the TT-02DT is coming out and it includes a chassis cover, which I bet you can buy separately, I think it will be a great addition to this rally mod.
Thanks very much. Hmmm - I think the 70mm shocks will be too long, but it's worth a test fit. Maybe you can put shorter bottom ball-ends on? Or try the 70mm shocks with the stock TT02 springs on them? Might just work! Oh yes, the new chassis cover would be a great addition to any off-road TT02. Cheers for the comment, my friend! :)
Hello mark , first of all great video, I’ve got a tt-02d that I’ve been transforming into a rally car and I’ve followed all your steps . Looks great although the front dogbones seem to be about to come off the cups in certain steering angles. You mentioned on the video to replace it for metal ones (dogbones and cups) have you got the part number by any chance? Because I’ve googled it myself but i found a few different ones and don’t want to buy the wrong size 😅 Thanks
Hi there and thanks for the kind words! Oh yes, those dogbones will fly out if you are not careful. Mine have been OK because I restricted the steering with the dual rate steering setting on my controller. You can search for the Yeah Racing TT-02 universal Joints ( www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353942068573?epid= ) that are excellent but you will also need to change the output joints to metal ones. Alternatively the link below is for a set that will fit without changing the gearbox joints: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385300061887?itmmeta Cheers!
Thanks, Jeremy. Here is the link, the price has gone up a little, but still cheap! www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-RC-Motor-Aluminum-Heatsink-Cooling-Fins-12pcs-Pin-for-540-545-550-Motor-/393114918128?hash=item5b87799cf0
Thank you for the reply Mark - greatly appreciated! Have also searched for some period multi-spoke alloys and cannot find anything - do you know of a supplier?
@@jeremyturner2301 Hi Jeremy, I generally only use Tamiya parts, Tony's Tamiya parts is a great supplier - here is a link to some wheels he has in stock: www.ebay.co.uk/str/Tonys-Tamiya-Parts?gclid=Cj0KCQiAx9mABhD0ARIsAEfpavQjonVVekR6ri6Dei52dgsPoFGKLdO-OIzCZHYkhmbyyhgGn_GJ3KsaAnN_EALw_wcB&matchtype=b&adgroupid=71572595973&cmpgn=2033188068&crlp=355246904598_&rlsatarget=aud-629407027585:dsa-764521878456&loc=9045472&mkrid=710-153696-560033-8&norover=1&network=g&mkevt=1&device=c&mkcid=2&_bkw=wheels
Hello from Alberta Mark. I really wanted an XV-01 chassis but the body/wheels I want are on a TT02 (99 Impreza Monte-Carlo) and it's $200 less! Thanks for all your videos explaining how to get the best possible rally settings on a TT02 - I'll be using your knowledge to set up my car. Cheers!
Hello, Scotty! Oh yeah, the XV-01 is a great chassis but so much more expensive. The TT02 is a great chassis anyway, and a few tweaks can really make a difference. Wishing you luck with your rally build, I'm sure your car will be a good runner. Cheers from Mark in the UK!
@@MarkBryanRC Hi Mark. I've been wondering about the modifications you made to your TT02. Did you have any suspension, drivetrain or steering issues due to the lowered positioning of the arms? I'm about to build mine and like how you were able to get so much ground clearance. With the center of gravity being higher do you find the car unstable? From your other video with your car running it looks to handle well. Thanks!
@@GreenEyedScotty Hi Scotty. Funny you should ask, I did have a little issue with the steering. Those ball pivots at the top and bottom of the front uprights were at their limits and the steering jammed a little on full lock. Shortening the shocks by a couple of mm sorted that out and I've had no problems since. Still loads of clearance and no issues with stability, it drives very nicely and is way better than stock on rough terrain. All in all I'm really pleased with it! Best wishes from Mark 🙂
@@MarkBryanRC Perfect! Building mine with universal joints so that should negate any dog bone binding issues. Will make sure there is no binding with the arms as you suggested. I also ordered a set of XV-01 springs as they are nice and plush - much better than the stock springs that come with the super mini CVAs. 🏁🏆
Hi Rich - thanks for the high praise, appreciated. As for the servo, I tend to go for the cheap standard servos - only had a few issues and they are cheap to replace if you wear them out. My goto is the waterproof Etronix ET0015 - it's fitted to most of the cars you see in my run videos, does the job! All the best, my friend. :-)
Hello New to Rc Car kit building and watching your videos i would love to do these modifications what parts were used for the shock absorbers thanks for your help what a great video
Hi Chris and welcome to this great hobby! Hmmm, there seems to be a shortage of spares at the moment but stuff is still available if you look around the market. You could search for the ones I used: Tamiya 50746 CVA Super Mini Shock Unit Set I found some on eBay today, You can use most 55mm oil shocks on the TT02, Fastrax also do an alloy 55mm set for the TT02 that should do a good job, I have tried them and was impressed with them. Check out my video of them here: ruclips.net/video/9963SdfEEEg/видео.html Good luck!
Currently building my TT-02, probably gone end up going with a heatsync but the idea behind the cover is to force air around the motor. if you'll notice the 2nd part is not a cap but a scoop so as it drives along and air moves over the chassis the scoop catches it and redirects it downward to go over the motor...in theory....how much air actually moves inside of the car when driving can't be that much pretty much whatever can make it's way up the wheel well as the body tends to close off the front pretty well
Hi there and thanks for the thoughtful comment. Yeah, I agree with you about that motor cover and what it looks like it's supposed to do. But in practice, as you say with the body fitted the airflow inside the chassis is minimal and I find the motor runs cooler without the cover. The best solution is a fan to force the air in, that you can fit by removing the scoop, the cowling has the holes to accept a fan. But for £3 the simple heatsink is a good cheap and maintenance free solution! Cheers!
@@MarkBryanRC thank you again for your video's, just gave it it's first propper test in the front yard (we have half inch- an inch big pretty jagged lose stones which make for pretty rough terrain). shortening the front cup peg at the bottom was pretty MVP, also the CVA's. on a earlier test it couldn't make it up a light slope (of jagged little rocks but still) now it'll just get up there. didn't have a great drilling solution so I opted for some traxxxas 3x6mm sunken selftapping screws and some traxxxas 5mm sunken head washers which looks amazing and gets the job done (I think using a 5mm tamiya washer with a tamiya 3x6mm would actually be better as the washer is much thinner but this look pretty nice :P also used threadlock since...6mm instead of 10mm . only disappointment that I'm considering fixing but it's 20 bucks to fix which...is a bit steep is that the CVA kit I got only had black medium springs rather then the 3 options. went with soft dampening oil and the 3 hole restrictor which seems fine but the spring is just a bit to strong...or the rocks are to jagged :P rocking a celica GT-4 body (aftermarket which doesn't look as sharp as the tamiya body that came with the kit but it's the only game in town for that body so I'll take it :P also found the matching rims from tamiya which were silver for some reason..painted them which...isn't great...)
Hi and thanks for sharing your findings! Cool that you can see the difference in off-road performance. I like the way you came up with your own solutions, it's a part of the hobby that I really enjoy. Yes, I think the stock CVA springs are a little too stiff for rally. But if you start taking small jumps with the car they might pay dividends! love that GT-4 body, too! Cheers! :o)
@@MarkBryanRC i gotta say it's really fun going from a stock TT-02 ow this is neat, noticing some "issue's" and then finding solutions to it. and testing it afterward, did rob's mods that he did vs the XV-02 and before it was barely able to turn around in the driveway, now it only takes half the driveway (and the front's even higher ^^). do wish I had known how much I was gone spend in hopup parts...and that's not counting the nice to have's I've got coming. if I had a time machine i'd probably have just gotten a TT-02 SR, all of the pro's of the S with the hopup bits you'll probably end up getting anyway (SRX isn't compatible with the type S lower arm mods). do the diff's and driveterrain and call it a day. or just get the XV-02 swallow that bitter up front pill but know that except perhaps an insanely expensive slipper clutch I'm done.
@@anub1s15 Oh yes it can get a bit pricey when you start adding multiple hop ups! I think the best option overall is to go straight for an XV01, mine is still totally stock and it's awesome! But that said, a lot of the fun, as you say, of the TT02 was working on it bit by bit and seeing it get better! Cheers! 😎👍👍
Sorry bro been on 7 nights 😭 got to catch up on everyone's vids 😳 really enjoyed this build as always, great info, ive got the tyres your talking about 😁 going to be brilliant off Road, carnt wait to see you doing the Body as you know no that is my favourite part of your builds lol. 😁 really enjoyed every minute of this Video my good Mate 👍😊😎🥰👍
All good Tony! Sorry for late reply, very busy mate! Yeah the tyres are the best you can get for rally IMO. Hope to start the body today at some point, I'm sinking in work too my friend. Really good of you to catch up, you are a star my mate! All the best as always! :))
Thanks, Mikey Mike! I hope some of these tips work on the TT01 too! They just might, please let us know if they do. Have a smashing weekend my friend! :)
MARK! Thank you for this video. Which servo do you recommend (did you use) for this RC? I'm building my first RC and really like this Rally Car's look.
Great tips on the suspension but when I put the longer mounts in the bottom of the shocks on the front the arms don’t drop enough to get full travel on the shock
Thanks very much, Stephen. Hmm, strange - I think mine did drop enough, maybe a mm or 2 left in the damper. If it's only a few mm, it shouldn't matter, just don't put the spacers on the spring or you will have too much preload. Hope it works out for you!
Mark I just love this guide! I start the build on mine tonight! I am still deciding on shocks. LHS is out of the mini CVA’s so I am grabbing a set of Yeah Racing shocks. There seem to always be more touring versions in stock than off-road though. Do you know off hand if the 65mm shocks are too long or would they fit? Can’t remember exactly but though the off-road ones were in either 60mm or 65mm. Thanks again for such a great tutorial!
Hi and great to hear you found this stuff useful! Good luck with the build. I think 65mm will be a bit too long, but 60mm might work as long as the springs aren't too stiff as the gap is only about 55- 58mm with these mods. Squashing a longer shock in the gap will add a lot of preload to the spring. Drastic measure is to cut a bit of the coil off each spring, it's worked for me in the past! All the best my friend! :)
@@MarkBryanRC thanks for the advice! I do know one guy at the track is running Yeah Racing 60’s but I think they are the touring shocks. I’m hoping to find off-road version in 60mm if I can. Unless I can find the mini Tamiya CVA’s which seem to be popular and out of stock everywhere.
@@JFlyer1973 No probs! I have heard good things about those Yeah Racing shocks, I think they will do the trick for you. Hehe, those Tamiya CVA's are like rocking horse poo!!! 😂
Mark, do not know if you will pick this up but here goes. These mods have got me wanting to do one. Can you seee any pitfalls using a TT-02S? Read it comes with some upgrades. Oil filled shocks (might be too short) but no probs if so AND metal drive shafts,these are the possible concern?
Hi Gary - I promise I try to pick up all comments - it will be a mistake on my part if I don't, as some comments seem to go missing in RUclips sometimes. I see no pitfalls in using a TT02S - in fact it makes a FANTASTIC rally car with a few little mods. I have done a full video series on building upgrading the Type-S for rally. It was so good that it beat my XV01 rally car in a race-off! It has so many upgrades included in the kit, you won't believe it. The best news is you don't need to spend any money or buy any parts for the conversion. Here is a link to my playlist of the TT02 Type-S: ruclips.net/video/2kXtG7BmEMs/видео.html
Thanks, Michael! Hmm, the ground clearance is limited compared to the TT02B, largely due to the much smaller wheels and tyres of the rally car. The rally car still does very well on the rough though! Cheers!
Great info on the mods Mark keep up the good work. What would you say is your favourite Tamiya chassis? No doubt there are more capable of road chassis than the TT 02, however I think they look the best in terms of scale.
Thanks very much, Kevin. Hmm, as far as rally cars is concerned, I love the XV01 chassis, but up there with it is the TT02 Type-S, an awesome upgraded version of the TT02 with completely different and infinitely better suspension. For the price, about £130 without a body, it's a winner!
Well done Mark. Great work showing the difference between the two versions and personally I would prefer the off road version. lol These are pretty impressive looking rigs and I do enjoy the Subaru the most of all of the bodies I think. Thanks again for sharing your experiences and knowledge of these kits for others. Well done brother.. :)
Hi Nick - thanks for the support, brother - yeah this thing can definitely rally with a few simple mods. I agree, rally is more fun than road running, although that has it's moments, too. Thank you for the encouragement, always appreciated my friend! :-)
Thanks, Steve! I really enjoyed tinkering with this chassis, made it more rewarding than just following the manual - let's hope all the mods work OK! Have a cracking weekend, mare! :))
What a great video Mark, lots of great mods and information. Now I can't wait to start the build but need to work on the wife's Impala and my old Chrysler. These tt02s look very tough, doesn't look like they need many upgrades apart from those terrible fake shocks some come with. I changed them on the midnight pumpkin to. Great video mate enjoy these builds.
Thanks very much, Peter! This is a great platform to start with and you can do a lot to improve it without spending tons of cash! Good luck with the 1/1 size cars! Yeah, those shocks need sending to the bin, a good CVA will always make all the difference. Take care my friend! :))
@@MarkBryanRC thanks Mark ,I learn a lot from you and Mick from rc hobby shed. He just tortured a new kyosho Mad Van, you guys really give these cars a decent bashing, always great to watch.
@@MarkBryanRC it was a bash and a half , he was laughing which made me laugh. No way my 4s Arrma outcast would survive that. You blokes really know how to have fun. Take care mate.
Hi Mark, FReally enjoyed these 2 great vids on the mods. I have returned to the hobby after many years so a lot is new. Can i ask if there is a rally car with this amount of travel as standard.i see there is a TT-01 TT-02 and additional letters following. If not this is a absolute must.
Thanks a bunch, Gary! Lots of us are the same, coming back after a long break, I'm back after 20 years! I don't know of a current Tamiya kit with this much travel as a standard rally car. Hope you find one you like! :)
Hey love your guides. Ive just purchased my very first tamiya TT02 and cant wait to get deep into the hobby. You mention these stainless steel hex Heads in almost every video but i cant seem to find what i need to search for to buy a complete set to change them all out. Have you got a link?
Thanks Kieran! Have fun with that new TT02! As for the stainless screws, I can't find anyone that sells sets for Tamiya cars. I buy bags of 50 or 100 screws of the different lengths (10, 12 and 15mm). Here is a link to the eBay shop I get them from: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181024489629?hash=item2a25e6809d:g:cf4AAOSwj6lbvJDw
@@MarkBryanRC hey just followed your link and added the following 10mm and 12mm but their is no 15mm in the drop down option will 16mm be alright, thanks for the response keep up the good work 👍🏼
@@DempZe Yep. you only need M3 screws. TBH you can probably get away without the 15mm screws as there are only a couple in most Tamiya kits, but if you do go for them I'm sure 16mm will be OK! I just use the stock screws when there are only a few of them. :) Cheers!
Hey Mark, Finally got the time to sit and watch the whole vid. I think new shocks will work well, rallying needs a softer set up than touring cars. I wonder if there is an aftermarket shock with a set of various strength springs. The rear was so much easier to mod then the front. Rocks can get in the 540 motor vents. I use cheese cloth or window bug screen to cover them. Are you going to run a 2s Lipo on this set up?? Great tutorial, looks like you are going to hit 4k subs soon, Have a great weekend bro👍🏾👍🏾
Hi Bro - thanks for finding the time to watch this rather long video! Yeah, soft is the way to go on rally shocks for sure. Need to soak up those bumps! Some shocks do come with a set of different strength springs, Yeah Racing do, I think. Good to have a selection. Good idea with the motor cover. I certainly will try the only 2S I have in this one on it's first run, but that may be a while as I haven't even started the body yet! All good, Paul, hit 4K today and I'm over the moon - thanks for coming along my brother! :-)
Congrats Mark, your channel is a great place to kick back and enjoy a variety of tutorials, runs and reviews. You are so personable and interactive, really natural and authentic. Like I said before, I used to watch your channel way before I started my own because of the Tamiyas and Rallying. You will keep growing. My next upload was inspired by you and Derek from Holy Hill RC. Both of you got me building stuff again. Will try to put it up soon. Congrats again Brother. You really make RC fun.
Thanks again Bro - really good to read your comments, I promise the me you see is the real me, there is no possibility I could do it any other way! Your channel will keep growing, too, just keep doing "you" too! Now you got me intrigued, looking forward to that video, Paul! :))
Thank you! I found your channel and have been binge watching all of your videos haha. Your meticulous style is greatly appreciated especially since your videos are very interesting at the same time (not boring at all!). I had one question about the stainless cap screws, do you have a link by any chance? I'm not sure exactly which size to get. Thanks again!
Hello my friend! Thanks for watching, greatly appreciated! Here is a link to those cap screws, I mainly use the 10mm and 12mm long screws to replace the Tamiya ones: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221107048515 Cheers! :)
@@MarkBryanRC Thank you sir! Oh okay those are just M3 machine screws, button head allen... but are you using those in lieu of the self-tapping screws? They work fine?
@@jediradekcrif9568 Yep, just machine screws. I have used them in most of my Tamiya kits and have not had one issue with them, they are a great replacement. Tamiya does use a lot of machine threads into plastic, like the 5mm ball connectors for shock and steering mounts!
@@MarkBryanRC The TT02 is too low for a Rally car with your mods will be perfectly fine. This is mine, it's a Lancia ruclips.net/video/ENR6FZXV5R0/видео.html&ab_channel=GastonMaqueda
Hi Martin - thanks for the kind words. If I had the choice, I would definitely go for the Type-S over the standard TT02 kit. There are so many improved hop-up parts included. Mainly, the suspension components are so much better in design and performance. Best wishes from Mark... :)
Hi Mark, Great video which has inspired me to build my own TT02 rally spec. I especially like your front uprights mod which enables more ground clearance. BTW, just ordered a dust cover for the TT02 chassis (made by Kamtec in the UK) so hopefully I won’t need to worry anymore about debris getting caught in the chassis and jamming the steering and drive shaft 😀
Cool, thanks Shouwn! Oh yee, I've seen those dust covers, and Kamtec is a great company, I've had great products from them in the past. No more steering jams for you! Best regards from Mark... :)
@@MarkBryanRC I tried to increase the ride height of my TT02 using long shock bottom (as per your recommendation) but I found that my driveshafts were 'shuddering' excessively (I'm using Yeah Racing CVD's) so I had to use the standard shock bottoms to ensure smooth operation. Wondering if you have this problem with the standard drive shafts???
@@shouwnoosting6030 Wow - if you got shuddering with CVD's you must have managed to get more travel than I did - no, the standard driveshafts on mine drive very smoothly!
@@MarkBryanRC interesting 🤔 I’m also using Yeah Racing adjustable upper suspension arms so wonder if that is giving me additional suspension travel compared to standard arms???
Hi Mark. Well, the car is shaping up nicely. I see you've been able to leverage some suspension mods from my build. Always happy to help if I can. One minor difference that I've noticed with my build however is that I've used metal washers under the button head screws on the LOWER ball joints. I think the metal washer will function more effectively as a thrust bearing than that stock plastic washer. Nearly half of the car's weight is carried by these two lower ball joint screws and as they become packed with dirt they tend to drag and create additional work for the servo. I think perhaps having metal-on-metal will reduce drag. Dirt also packs the lower ball joints seizing them in the suspension arms rendering the front suspension virtually useless. This is the problem with this design but I may have a solution and once I have it sorted I'll update my post on RC10talk.com. Meanwhile, I'm very much looking forward to your next installment. Cheers Mark!
Hiya Accelerate! Many thanks for the info! Yeah, I took inspiration for that bottom suspension fix - thanks! I used that plastic washer because I didn't have any 8mm cap screws left - the 10mm ones just protruded into the drive cup area so I needed a spacer. Will redo that when I get some more. I'll look out for the ball joints clogging up - thanks again! Hope your solution is a success. Now I'm looking forward to driving this one, it may be a while as I'm very busy at the moment, and I still got that awesome body to do. Cheers bud! :))
@@MarkBryanRC Yeah, if they weren't bad enough already, there's a slit in the plastic ball apparently to allow it to pop into the arm more easily. This gap just lets more debris into the joint. Also, the soil here is rocky and sandy so it's the worst possible scenario. Anyway, thank you for the report on those China rally block tires. I was eyeing those on ebay and was curious if they were good. I'll get a set on order. The stock Tamiya tires wear like iron but it might be nice to try a set in a softer rubber compound. Thanks again Mark!
@@bamabiker750 Yeah, those split ball joints have a lot to answer for! Crap! The soft rip-off tyres are surprisingly good, although they do wear fast on hard surfaces, at least they are grippy and cheap to replace! Take it easy my friend! :-)
Hi Mark. Great video! I've just built this today and used some of your tips 👍. Can I just ask about the grease you've used to stiffen up the diffs. Will doing this reduce the acceleration or top speed or put more strain on things? Genuinely don't know, not saying it will 😄. Cheers 👍
Thanks very much! Glad you could use some of the tips. As for the diff, when the car is running straight, the gears in the diff don't move, so no, the grease doesn't have any impact on performance. The gears in the diff only move when one side is turning faster than the other (eg when cornering or if one of the wheels is spinning on loose ground). This is when the thicker grease stops the faster moving wheel spinning as much, helping to give traction to the wheel running at normal speed. This all helps the car get traction, but doesn't stress the diff. Hope this makes sense! :))
Thanks for this video! I have been following with my own TT02 911 rally build! @13:30 when you talk about step 24. Parts B12 don’t fit horizontal therefore creating a tie out on the front wheels. Have you found any way to avoid this? I see you spacer, but it still looks like you have a toe out later in the video. I’m going to try to flip A3 parts.
Hi Tom, glad you found it useful! Yeah, even with those spacers there is a tiny bit of toe-out, TBH it does look worse because of the wide angle lens used in the video. With the car sat down on the suspension it's almost no-toe! What I need to do though is add some adjustable tie rods like I did on my TT02 road car build. Hope your build is going well - cheers! :))
Hey Mark, Wonderful video...I was wondering if you could help me with one little question I am confused about. In the front of the Manual for building the SUBURU, there are set up instructions for either a 251m or 257m. If I remember correctly, this is for the alignment of the wheels to the body. NOWHERE do the instructions inform me of which set up to use, and as this is my first TAMIYA TT02 build, (YES, I'm AMBITIOUS AND WANT to build like you for off-road) what exactly am I looking at for this?
Hi Joseph, thanks for the kind words. No problem, the Subaru body fits the 257mm wheelbase. It's unusual to have a body that is 251mm, but I suppose there must be a few out there. I wish you luck with your first TT02 build, take your time and it will come out fantastic. If you need any help, just drop me a comment, but I'm sure you will be fine. All the best from Mark... :)
Hey Mark. Love your videos and have been following for a while. I did have a question about TT02s and gearing. Im not new to rc by any means (over 20 years in the hobby), but newish to electric powered cars (3 years). So far I have burned up two Tamiya motors, a Torque tuned and a Sport tuned, in my TT02's that I set up for rally. In one I ended up adding a 15T 550 and fans and 15T pinion, and it seems to be better, but it seems no matter what Pinion and spur I use the tamiya Torque and sports tuned keep getting blazing hot without even going through a full battery. Any advice? I could just get another 15T 550 but I would rather be able to run my TT02s with Tamiya motors. Thanks again and thank you for the videos! Keep them coming!
Hey Tim - many thanks for the kind words. As for the TT02 and overheating, I must say I've never had a problem. I use the Torque Tuned motor with the TBLE02s in all my rally cars. I am using mainly 22T pinion and standard spurs. I do have alloy heatsinks fitted to the motors, and run NiMh and 2S LiPo. Can't understand why yours overheats, unless you are running in deep grass or mud? Does it happen when running on road? - what ESC and batteries are you using? Very strange indeed! Hope you find a solution, my friend. All the best from Mark... :)
@@MarkBryanRC Hey Mark, thanks for the quick reply. So late evening I tried a different esc and went back up to a 19 tooth pinion and that seems to have made the difference. I was running Tamiya's TBLE-02S in both then switched to a Hobbywing 1060. Then went up to 19t pinion from 15t and so far things have been good. Don't know what the real reason for the high temps. Running on road and in a home made dirt track meant for my short course trucks. But I tell you, the Tamiya kits I've been getting are so much better than the big SC trucks. I love my Tamiya cars and waiting on a Hornet. And seriously I love the work you do and will be waiting for you next video. Thanks again Mark!
You are very welcome, Tim - I do try to answer all comments and questions, but it can take a while due to the amount of comments, work and other commitments! Glad you hear you are making some progress into the issue. Must be something to do with the motor / ESC combination. The tracks you are running on shouldn't cause a problem. Great to hear you are enjoying the Tamiyas! Good man! And thanks for watching and the kind comments, always appreciated my friend. 😎
Hi Mark, another well made and informative video, thanks again! A question re the suspension mods - with the changes that you've made here, would it still be possible to revert the cars ride to an on-road one? Say you wanted to switch to an alternative set of wheels shod with slick tyres for some tarmac stages?! A bit of wrench time I know, but would the alternations still make that a possibility? Cheers, James
Thanks very much, James! But yes, it is certainly possible to revert the mods to a near stock setup. To swap the uprights back to stock would be the most time consuming, but easy to do. However, the biggest difference would be to swap the shock bottoms for the shortest ones. The fastest option would be to have a spare set of shocks set-up with a shorter distance, eye-to-eye, say, 50mm. It would then only take a couple of minutes to pop the shocks on and off the ball joint mounts! Cheers, Mark :-)
Hello Mark. Thank you for the great content, especially on the TT02 platform. Looking to buy my first TT02 kit and I was wondering if you could give me some advice between the various sets. Tempted by the Subaru kit for the rally setup but also considering the TT02S and TT02R. Which one is the best option if I’m looking for a platform I could use both on road and off road by maybe changing a few pieces? Thanks
Thank you Arnaud for the nice comment! In terms of performance and value for money, I would recommend the TT02 Type S chassis. The suspension setup is far superior to the stock TT02, and it comes with excellent hop-ups, including bearings, CVA shocks, steel drive shafts and drive cups and much more. It is quite easy to modify the A arms to give the ground clearance needed for rally running. If you are interested, this video shows how I adapted the suspension at zero cost: ruclips.net/video/6kWMvdDhoiM/видео.html Happy RC-ing!
Hello friend, yes it is good for on-road racing! This chassis actually has it's own racing class in many RC clubs and is highly regarded. Many thanks for the question and best wishes from Mark... :))
the part that is amazing for me is that no one gets the fail of assembly to the front knuckles... the stoppers of the knuckle should be on the top even the manual shows that
That's cool - it's OK to disagree - but maybe I'm missing your point? I thought I had shown how to assemble and mod the knuckles for the HIGH setting. Are the "stoppers" you refer to part A6? If so, if you pause the video at 2:44 you can clearly see the manual and the stopper is at the bottom. The part of the manual at 1:50 that shows the stopper at the top is for the low ride height setting. The bit that says HIGH on the manual at that point is telling you to turn to P18 for those instructions! Hope this clears it up, mate! Thanks a ton, Mikael! We got so much footage that there may be more of these videos to come! Thanks for watching, and enjoy the crazy football, I'll be watching it myself, tonight, with a cold beer or three! - Come On England! Cheers, my mate! 😎👍
@@MarkBryanRC the point is why the steering ends lower your steering angle cuz if the knuckles for hi clearance must be upside down then the problem that occur with the tips of steering end is factory fault.
Google translate says you wrote: A little funny, had you put the left upright on the right side, you would have let go of all the grinding and fitting. If only it was that simple, my friend! I think you have your kits confused! :-)
@@MarkBryanRC så har du et annet TT-02 kit enn det jeg har. For i mitt kit, ønsker jeg høy bakke klerering, så sier instruksjonboka, akkurat det jeg beskrev. Men jeg skal ikke avvise at Tamiya har endret dette, fra din til de 8 stks jeg har. Sorry jeg skrev, du gjør det på din måte, så holder jeg meg til min metode. Ha en fin dag.
I translate you comment as: "then you have a different TT-02 kit than the one I have. Because in my kit, I want high ground clearance, so says the instruction manual, exactly what I described. But I will not deny that Tamiya has changed this, from yours to the 8 pieces I have. Sorry I wrote, you do it your way, so I stick to my method. Have a nice day." My Reply: Ahh - this is very strange! If your TT02 can have the front suspension raised simply by swapping the uprights from left and right, it must be very different indeed! As you can see from my video, this is not the case with my new TT02 Subaru Imprezza kit. I am pleased you wrote - at least we know there are differences in TT02 kits. Thanks for your reply, I wish you a very nice day too! :)
Hiya mark, after talking with you the otherday ive gone and purchased a Tamiya TT-02 ford escort cosworth and now just trying to round up all the bits I'll need for the conversion. can i ask where did you get the screws from?
Hi Jordan. Great choice of kit! I know you will love it. Here is a link to the M3 screws I got from eBay: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221107048515 Happy New Year!
Cheers, Mark! Yeah, 60mm seems to be about right, but when looking for shocks, check to see what is included - e.g. the Fastrax shocks come with different shock bottoms, so like the Tamiya ones, you can tune for the best length. Thanks for watching my friend! :)
Hi Mark - with the Tamiya rally blocks and a stock motor, no - they stay on fine without glue. The Chinese knock-off are softer and need glue. With a brushless setup, I think even the Tamiyas need glue! :)
Have you got a part number for the ball ends by any chance? Thanks for the tips couple I did now already which I've already done but the bull ends a very good mod
These two videos sold me on buying this chassis. Thank you and amazing job. Can't wait to start a build.
That's fantastic to hear! Enjoy the build, it's very rewarding! Thank you very much, I really appreciate you taking the time to write this comment! 🤗👌👍🙏
Hi, Mark.
Excellent video. I've mentioned to you before that I'm back into the hobby after about 3 decades, and I'm currently building the TT-02 Audi Quattro. I'm almost done and I just wanted to mention again how wonderful and helpful your videos on the subject have been. Some great ideas and mods that have saved me from spending way too much on hop-ups. Your method has made it far more enjoyable for me. It's really fun to see how much you can improve the car without bathing it in blue aluminum. Thank you so much. Your work is much appreciated.
Hi Marino - thank you once again for the very kind words, it's so encouraging to me and very much appreciated. Great to hear you've found the mods and tips useful, as it's exactly why I make these videos. Wishing you a great 2022, all the best from Mark... 👍
This is the kinda stuff that makes the hobby so fun. Gotta try this suspension mods myself. Road cars are super fun on a track but rally cars or buggy's are so much more usable. Just bash around on any ground where street cars get stuck.
I have cut out a thin piece of plastic and put over all the holes that you covered with glue. It is held down by the arms that joins the steering components. Works well also.
I totally agree! You had a great idea there to cover the holes with a plate! Thanks for sharing, I might look at doing that next time - cheers! :))
Even though this was 2 years ago it’s still a great video for us TT-02 Users! I used a metal drive bone to increase the drop to
Thanks for the kind words! Glad you found it of some use. Oh yes, metal dogbones are another great hop-up! Cheers!
Thank you for the detailed series on this, converting my drift setup to rally (because why not, easily switch it back) and it's helped me under stand the differences and tricks between the setups.
Glad it helped, Trevor! Yes, I also swap the settings on my TT02's, and have used my TT02D for light rally running. Such a versatile chassis. All the best from Mark - cheers! :)
I was wondering.... I woke up, saw Rob's Friday Video, but not yours. 😞
Then I spent half the day in Physical Therapy, come home, and there you are!!! 😁😊
Great Tips me Mukka. Notably the 2 holes in the side to Zip Tie the ESC Switch on!!!👌🏆
I should be Jealous, but I've got far too much Respect for you... You've got almost 4mm more clearance than my TT-02!!
I might have to apply the Mark Bryan touch! 👍👍
Cheers my dear Friend! 😊
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Hi Carmine - yeah, as I was saying, getting a bit behind of late, but still wanted a Friday upload this week - glad I did as it's doing pretty well at the moment. Thanks for tuning in bro - always a pleasure to read ya. The clearance is pretty good now, about what I expected and enough for a bit of rallying - we'll find out soon. Take care, mukka. :))
😁👍Nice that's exactly how I have mine set up also but I have the aluminum front steering blocks so I did not cut the bottoms off them, my rears the same but I left my shocks in the inner hole on the shock tower 👍 Nice how to Mark!
Hiya Steve - I may look at the alloy blocks at some point, just trying to save a little cash at the moment! Thanks for the comment - all the best to you my friend! :-)
@@MarkBryanRC yea I broke the front blocks 2 times and then said it's time for aluminum ones, I don't like using aluminum parts only in spots that they would actually be better because most all times they make things worse.
@@ShenRC Gotta agree with that, Steve, usually just moves the weak spot to the next weakest part! :))
I just got my kit in the mail. Can't wait to put it together, and tear it up . 😆. I went ahead and ordered some crucial performance hopups.
Aluminum drive shaft
Yeah racing adjustable motor mount
Yeah racing spur adapter
Aluminum adjustable oil dampers
2s lipo
These few hopups will take this kit from decent to wicked. The YR motor mount and adjustable spur adapter allows you to run 64 pitch gears, and really wakes up the tuned Tamiya motor.
Hope you enjoy it! Lots of cool hop-ups. It should run very nicely! Have fun! :D
Hey mark. I'm converting my son's TTO2 to rally and thought to myself. I think I remember mark having a video about this. I've tried some of these changes. The only thing I changed was I used the same spacer on top and bottom because I had a extra instead of washers.
Hi there Kevin and thanks for remembering this video. I hope your rally conversion goes well, a nice change after all this on-road speed running! Yep, I did the same with those spacers on another build! 😎👊👍
Was going to wait until tomorrow morning to watch this while I had my coffee, but I simply could not resist!
Great tips on this versatile chassis Mark! It’s going to be super cool when you’re finished!
Great job my friend!👍😊
Hello Jeremy my friend! Hehe, glad you watched straight away! Yeah, I really enjoyed this build, trying out a few tweaks and veering away from the manual makes it more "my own build". Looking forward to the first spin, fingers crossed it all works OK. Thanks for the awesome comment dude! :))
Thanks for the video, I was building a TT02 and then saw your video. I took it back apart and did this. Very cool and cheap to raise the TT02.
Thanks for the message! Great to know that the mods worked out well for you! Best wishes from Mark.. :)
Hello mark excellent video mate just done all the modifications to my tamiya tt02 which started life as a buggy bought the parts to convert it . I put the alloy propshaft and cups in mine as the standard one wobbles a bit . all the best mate take care
Hi Coryn and great to hear from you again! Good to hear that you got all the mods done, hope all is working well for you mate. Yeah, the alloy propshaft is a great option. All the best to you, too! :))
Wow Mark some great improvements here. I must say you've got more guts than me in chopping off ( filing down ) parts of a Tamiya chassis, and somehow knowing everything will be fine. Obviously it's down to experience and you obviously think like an engineer. I fully agree with your analysis of the kit shocks, those springs really were too thick with way too much rigidity in them - as you said pretty useless. Anyway what surprised me most was the addition of the heat sink. I'm assuming that motor was a 540 silver can ? If so I'm amazed a heat sink is needed. Ultimately though I suppose all motors need all the help they can get especially in hot weather. As always I'm very much looking forward to your bodyshell video. Those lexan shells really do take some fiddly, tiresome and specialised work and you really are a master with them. I know upfront you'll produce a beauty. Anyway have a great weekend dude..👍🏻.
Hiya mate! Yeah, it's always with a little trepidation when I start chopping Tamiya kit parts, as I usually don't have a spare in case it goes wrong! But as I say, slowly, slowly, keep checking before it gets past the point of no return! Ahh, the heat sink - yeah never really get a problem running on road, but a few of my rally cars are running higher than stock gearing off road. If the terrain has hills, grass or mud I find it puts drag on the car and the motors do get hot. Haven't started the body yet, just getting over returning to work full time! I'll take my time over that and do it in stages, I really enjoy that part of a build. All the best to you, hope the weekend's going well for you too mate. :-)
Very useful tips. I'm thinking a nice set of universal shafts are in order but any serious rc'er is thinking that as soon as the silver can gets replaced.
Thank you, Paul. Yes, I agree that UJ's would be a good addition to the drivetrain on this one, I need to start saving a little cash! All the best from Mark...
Hi Mark,this never gets old,lol , I just love re watching these videos. I should really be building my car and watching this video at the same time. I actually got round to painting the Audi TT01E body, i don’t know what happened...... but the silver turned out to be chrome looking, and I think it looks killer. I covered the silver with black, maybe that’s what made it look chrome. Still gotta do the decals though, grrrr 😖
Hiya, Mikey! Thanks for rewatching, it all helps! That body of yours sounds great, and a very nice turn of luck that the finish is a killer chrome look! Come on mate - get those decals stuck on!!! Good luck with them, I've got my fingers crossed for ya! :))
Thank you mark...your tt02 p1 and p2 really help me build my tt02 ford escort custom...i want to make it rally able..
And thank you, Aldy! I'm very happy to hear that the videos were helpful and I appreciate the feedback. I hope you have lots of enjoyment from your Ford Escort. Best regards from Mark... :)
Great video, love the mods. I think the black motor cover you was talking about is designed to fit a fan onto, to blow air directly down onto the motor. ☺️
Hi Jonathan! Thank you!
Yeah, the motor cover can take a fan, but if you don't intend to fit one, leave the cover off! But you are correct, if you have a fan that might be even better for cooling the motor! Thanks for the great comment and happy RCing! :D
Nice Video 😊 complete list of changes and well explained. Let's go offroad
Thanks a ton Alex! I've tested these mods and it works great off road. Hope they work for you! Cheers 🍻 😎👍
Good stuff Mark, the TT-02 chassis is a cheap one to build, with those tricks i don't have to use a TA-02 chassis for my Audi A2 body. Cheers to you and Rob for sharing those tips & tricks. Pints are on me.
Cheers, Bob! Yeah, it is cheap but I think it will perform as needed after the few cheap mods - no point spending hundreds on a 100 pound car! Hope your build goes well for that lovely Audi body. Looking forward to that pint! Bottom's up my friend! :))
Great tips there, thank you. I'll be doing these mods on my TT02 chassis.
Hello Tomas! Thanks for the comment, I hope you can make the desired improvement to your TT02 - best wishes from Mark... :)
Very informative, very well filmed and narrated. :) Good tips 👍 thank you. :) It helped me build mine easier and with your tips hopefully more capable.
Cool, thanks very much for the supportive comment, it's great to know these videos are of some use!
An excellent and informative part 2 Mark. I wonder if any official Tamiya engineers watch these videos ? Maybe they should 🙂👍
Hello my friend Derek. Thanks for the kind words, if only Tamiya would take note of what their fans are doing, and incorporate some factory improvements - but I fear we will be making our own mods for a long time to come! :-)
That is a serious increase in both clearance and travel! That'll be perfect for my GTA build. Thanks again for finding such a wonderful, and fairly simple solution.
Hello my friend. Yes, 25mm is good enough for most dirt and gravel tracks! Enjoy your GTA build, a very nice kit. I appreciate your kind comments, best regards from Mark... :)
Great video sir! It helped me build my Peugeot 306 maxi Monte Carlo into a more rally friendly chassis. Thank you for the content ! New sub deserved ! (I'm new to tamiya world been an HPI guy for decades )
Glad it helped my friend! Many thanks for the sub, I really appreciate it! Best regards from Mark...
Hooray you got it loaded up and it's still Friday! Really useful stuff. I had noticed the fact that the lumpy bit poked down by the front wheels but had never thought to do anything about it. Likewise I hadn't noticed that the steering is limited by that lug. I really need to go through my TT-02 and do the bits and bobs from parts 1 and 2 of your vids. I just got a set of the Chinese rally block tyres today and have put them on the gold wheels that Derek gave me. The Subaru now looks the business! Going RC'ing tomorrow which will be good hopefully. Glad you made it through work ok this week. I look forward to seeing your Subaru finished. Have you got any plans for the weekend or are you just recovering? Cheers for now mate 😀 🍺🍺🍺
Hiya Pete - hope all is good down south! Yeah, lot's of problems trying to render and upload this one - thanks for commenting after the long wait! Yeah, I really studied this build hard as it was supposed to be a "how-to!" Got lot's of ideas from the type-S build and Rob's Lancia, plus a thread posted by one of the commenters on this video. Lot's of info out there. Those Chinese tyres are very good - cool you got some wheels from Derek (Top Bloke!) Hope to see your Scoobie soon! Totally knackered mate, finding it hard to do work and RUclips at the same time after such a long break, I will slow down on here for a bit I think, lots coming up at home this month. Chilling today and more jobs to do at home tomorrow, don't know when this body is going to get done! Have a good one my mate! :)
Awesome video mate 🙂👍🏻.
Cheers from New Zealand 🇳🇿
Much appreciated mate! Greetings from Birmingham, UK 😎👍
Good to know. Looks great. Can't remember the last time unused the kit hardware on a build.
Cheers buddy, yeah, the standard hardware ain't the best! Thanks for the comment, appreciated. :)
A lot of people remove the motor cover on the tt02 / tt02b but for extra cooling your supposed to fit a 30mm fan on the top, the fan lines up exactly on the four holes. ( remove the small cover )
Thanks for that, Peter - yeah it makes a lot of sense to fit a fan. I can report the cheap little heatsink works well too! :)
Thanks Mark. Some brilliant ideas there! It’s disappointing that Tamiya call a it kit a “rally kit” and it needs to be modified some much to get some rally pedigree.
I’m building the TT02 Motul Autech road kit and was surprised by the lack of suspension travel. It’s been blinged up a bit with alloy components and the obligatory bearings.
But it’s barely above toy grade with a lot of it’s out of the box parts being what I would call below par.
Happy driving mate! 👍🤓🇦🇺
Hiya, Paul. Yeah, it sure looks like a rally cart and comes with the right tyres, but would you believe, in the manual is a warning that this kit is not designed to be run off-road!!! Crazy, my friend! That Motul Autech sounds like a sweet project, love the bodywork on that one, too. Agreed, too many under-par parts in this TT02 kit. Take care, mate. :)
I have this same Subaru by Tamiya. I think I'm gonna try these mods too! 👍
Go for it! The mods really do make a big difference - thanks for watching! :)
Brilliant Mark! What a great job you did showing us the mods. Almost makes me want to get a kit and follow your instructions 🙂
You should, Mikael, I keep saying you need a rally car to run in that big garden of yours, and perhaps a trip to the beach? Thanks for the amazing support my friend, I enjoy reading your comments very much! I hope you and your family are doing well. :)
Mark Bryan RC All’s well! Well, I just enjoy your videos. Hope all is well with you and your family too.
@@NordicRC Good here too - thanks mate!
Hi, excellent vids and still being watched in 2023! What M size are the 10mm cap heads , I'd like to upgrade them and want to order some. And are they the only size cap heads I'd need? Cheers.
Thanks very much! All of the screws are M3 on this kit. Most are 10mm long but there are a few 8mm, 12mm and 15mm. I only changed the 10 and 12mm screws. But then they are pretty cheap if you look around on eBay. Cheers!
Mark, congratulations!
Your work is awesome! It’s clear, it’s precise and above all it’s ingenious. Congratulations and thank you for sharing this with the community.
I’m going to carefully keep this series of videos under the elbow for a future build.
Obviously I’m looking forward to seeing your work on the bodywork which, I’m sure, will be great too.
I’m sure Mr. Burns will be happy to see that we don’t forget him through our hobby.
Have a great weekend. Take care mon ami.
Hello, Alex, thanks for always leaving a wonderful comment. I hope one day I will see a TT02 Subaru navigating your fantastic race track, in rally trim! Yes, I will think of Richard Burns every time I drive this little 1/10 vehicle. I hope you are feeling rested, mon ami - try not to work too hard! :-)
Awesome video Mark! Your build explanination is clear, insighful , indeed very helpful to me as a begineer. I've been watching your build video serveral times & love it. Me too! can't wait to start building my new TT-02 follow your setup guide. Thanks buddy~ take care.
Awesome, thank you Louis, you are too kind! Great to hear you have enjoyed my videos and good luck with your TT02 build, I'm sure you will enjoy it. Thanks again and best to you, buddy! 😎👌👍
Hi there Mark, I never get tired of watching your videos man, so many awesome tips and advice. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
Thanks, Mikey! So glad to read that you are enjoying the videos, makes them well worth making - take it easy my mate! 👍
Nice tips Mark! It's great to make a rally beast out of the TT-02s. I wish they would be a little bit more durable (especially the steering and the steering hubs). Well done my friend and have a great weekend 👍👍
Hiya, Charlie! Thanks for the great comment as always. Well I hope my steering holds up, this is the first basic TT02 I have ever set up for rallying. It's going to be fun finding out how she goes. A super weekend to you too my good friend! :-)
minute 5 i ve actually used a rotary tool as I didn t have a file, measured the pieces with a vernier,taped it at right length 2 min job. Thx Mark great tips
Hi Edoardo! Good to hear you found your own solution - and a fast one too! Hope it works well for you my friend! :)
@@MarkBryanRC i did exactly how you were showing in the video and grinded off as you were showing, however when after position the front dampers you squeeze them it seems like you have more room, maybe i chopped them too much as I had to use the shorter eyelet to fix the dampers to the 5mm pin ball as with the longer ones the damper was too tight with very little room.
It might be ok, but still get an extra A1 set just in case. They seem a bit too tight on the suspension,meaning that the piece A14 if pushed down doesn't go past the chassis 's level. Hope i didn't stuff it 😂
@@edoardobarzano978 Strange we have different gaps! Hi Edoardo! I hope you can get it sorted out, I'm sure it's something simple. I think you will have more ground clearance anyway, which is the whole point of the mod. All the best! :)
@@MarkBryanRC they looked the same length as yours in the video, but maybe I went 2-3mm too deep...
basically the front lower arm does not go lower than the chassis hight unless pushed hard....
i ve ordered the spare part not tto sure if it s needed though, just thought I follow your video-advice and yours look like they can go lower than the chassis's height...
Thanks again Mark...
will keep you posted.
Thanks for the update, Edoardo. Yes, my lower arms go lower than the chassis. I'm sure you will find a solution! It will be good to know how you get on. I hope mine runs OK when I test it - we will soon see! :)
Nice. I will do that on my Subaru Monte Carlo rally car. Thanks
Thanks! I hope the mods work well for you - cheers! 😎👌👍
Hey Mark, great tips, thanks for that. Would you mind posting a link for the new screws you got? Or the size of them? Are they M3?
Hi Gio! I got them from eBay, here is a link:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-3mm-ISO-7380-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-SOCKET-BUTTON-HEAD-ALLEN-KEY-SCREW-BOLTS/221107048515?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
You need to select "M3" and the length you want, I got 10mm, 12mm and 15mm
All the best,
Mark...
Great tips. Do you think 70mm shocks will fit? I have front metal CVDs. Also since the TT-02DT is coming out and it includes a chassis cover, which I bet you can buy separately, I think it will be a great addition to this rally mod.
Thanks very much. Hmmm - I think the 70mm shocks will be too long, but it's worth a test fit. Maybe you can put shorter bottom ball-ends on? Or try the 70mm shocks with the stock TT02 springs on them? Might just work! Oh yes, the new chassis cover would be a great addition to any off-road TT02. Cheers for the comment, my friend! :)
the cover for the motor if you leave the top off .the bit with the X in you can screw a fan onto it save using a heatsink
Thanks for that, Craig. I know a fan can be mounted on that bracket, but prefer the simplicity of the heatsink! All the best from Mark. :)
Thanks Mark, video very helpful. you get 2 thumbs up!
Awesome, thank you! the 2 thumbs up is a welcome bonus! Cheers! :O)
Hello mark , first of all great video, I’ve got a tt-02d that I’ve been transforming into a rally car and I’ve followed all your steps . Looks great although the front dogbones seem to be about to come off the cups in certain steering angles. You mentioned on the video to replace it for metal ones (dogbones and cups) have you got the part number by any chance? Because I’ve googled it myself but i found a few different ones and don’t want to buy the wrong size 😅
Thanks
Hi there and thanks for the kind words! Oh yes, those dogbones will fly out if you are not careful. Mine have been OK because I restricted the steering with the dual rate steering setting on my controller.
You can search for the Yeah Racing TT-02 universal Joints ( www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353942068573?epid= ) that are excellent but you will also need to change the output joints to metal ones. Alternatively the link below is for a set that will fit without changing the gearbox joints:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385300061887?itmmeta
Cheers!
Great video, Mark! Help me with some clever ideas. Thanks!
Hi Bruno! Happy to help! Thank you for watching and for leaving a nice comment, much appreciated!
Thanks Mark such a helpful video. I was struggling to raise the suspension for better off-road handling. This has really helped me improve the cars p
*performance
:D
Great to hear it was of some use! Music to my ears my friend, that's why I make these vids! Have fun! :o)
Great video Mark - excellent modifications you have made. Am sure you have already posted a link for the heatsink on here, would you repeat please.
Thanks, Jeremy. Here is the link, the price has gone up a little, but still cheap!
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-RC-Motor-Aluminum-Heatsink-Cooling-Fins-12pcs-Pin-for-540-545-550-Motor-/393114918128?hash=item5b87799cf0
Thank you for the reply Mark - greatly appreciated! Have also searched for some period multi-spoke alloys and cannot find anything - do you know of a supplier?
@@jeremyturner2301 Hi Jeremy, I generally only use Tamiya parts, Tony's Tamiya parts is a great supplier - here is a link to some wheels he has in stock:
www.ebay.co.uk/str/Tonys-Tamiya-Parts?gclid=Cj0KCQiAx9mABhD0ARIsAEfpavQjonVVekR6ri6Dei52dgsPoFGKLdO-OIzCZHYkhmbyyhgGn_GJ3KsaAnN_EALw_wcB&matchtype=b&adgroupid=71572595973&cmpgn=2033188068&crlp=355246904598_&rlsatarget=aud-629407027585:dsa-764521878456&loc=9045472&mkrid=710-153696-560033-8&norover=1&network=g&mkevt=1&device=c&mkcid=2&_bkw=wheels
Thanks once again Mark - really wish Tamiya would release the Porsche 959 rally car again.
@@jeremyturner2301 I'm with you on that thought, Jeremy - fingers crossed! :)
Hello from Alberta Mark. I really wanted an XV-01 chassis but the body/wheels I want are on a TT02 (99 Impreza Monte-Carlo) and it's $200 less! Thanks for all your videos explaining how to get the best possible rally settings on a TT02 - I'll be using your knowledge to set up my car. Cheers!
Hello, Scotty! Oh yeah, the XV-01 is a great chassis but so much more expensive. The TT02 is a great chassis anyway, and a few tweaks can really make a difference. Wishing you luck with your rally build, I'm sure your car will be a good runner. Cheers from Mark in the UK!
@@MarkBryanRC Hi Mark. I've been wondering about the modifications you made to your TT02. Did you have any suspension, drivetrain or steering issues due to the lowered positioning of the arms? I'm about to build mine and like how you were able to get so much ground clearance. With the center of gravity being higher do you find the car unstable? From your other video with your car running it looks to handle well. Thanks!
@@GreenEyedScotty Hi Scotty. Funny you should ask, I did have a little issue with the steering. Those ball pivots at the top and bottom of the front uprights were at their limits and the steering jammed a little on full lock. Shortening the shocks by a couple of mm sorted that out and I've had no problems since. Still loads of clearance and no issues with stability, it drives very nicely and is way better than stock on rough terrain. All in all I'm really pleased with it! Best wishes from Mark 🙂
@@MarkBryanRC Perfect! Building mine with universal joints so that should negate any dog bone binding issues. Will make sure there is no binding with the arms as you suggested. I also ordered a set of XV-01 springs as they are nice and plush - much better than the stock springs that come with the super mini CVAs. 🏁🏆
And This is why I watch the Taymia Guru! Thanks again ✌️. If I may ask, what is your servo preference?
Hi Rich - thanks for the high praise, appreciated. As for the servo, I tend to go for the cheap standard servos - only had a few issues and they are cheap to replace if you wear them out. My goto is the waterproof Etronix ET0015 - it's fitted to most of the cars you see in my run videos, does the job! All the best, my friend. :-)
Mark Bryan RC Thank you Mark! I appreciate the reply. Also thanks for the advice I will order a couple of those bad boys. Have a great weekend.✌️
@@rickbachman993 Cheers, Rick - you too buddy! :)
🇵🇪 Lima Rally presente TAMIYA TT-02🕹️🏎️♥️☝🏼🇵🇪
Good vídeo brother🤙🏼
Thank you very much, brother! :))
Hello New to Rc Car kit building and watching your videos i would love to do these modifications what parts were used for the shock absorbers thanks for your help what a great video
Hi Chris and welcome to this great hobby! Hmmm, there seems to be a shortage of spares at the moment but stuff is still available if you look around the market. You could search for the ones I used:
Tamiya 50746 CVA Super Mini Shock Unit Set
I found some on eBay today,
You can use most 55mm oil shocks on the TT02, Fastrax also do an alloy 55mm set for the TT02 that should do a good job, I have tried them and was impressed with them. Check out my video of them here: ruclips.net/video/9963SdfEEEg/видео.html
Good luck!
Currently building my TT-02, probably gone end up going with a heatsync but the idea behind the cover is to force air around the motor. if you'll notice the 2nd part is not a cap but a scoop so as it drives along and air moves over the chassis the scoop catches it and redirects it downward to go over the motor...in theory....how much air actually moves inside of the car when driving can't be that much pretty much whatever can make it's way up the wheel well as the body tends to close off the front pretty well
Hi there and thanks for the thoughtful comment. Yeah, I agree with you about that motor cover and what it looks like it's supposed to do. But in practice, as you say with the body fitted the airflow inside the chassis is minimal and I find the motor runs cooler without the cover. The best solution is a fan to force the air in, that you can fit by removing the scoop, the cowling has the holes to accept a fan. But for £3 the simple heatsink is a good cheap and maintenance free solution! Cheers!
@@MarkBryanRC thank you again for your video's, just gave it it's first propper test in the front yard (we have half inch- an inch big pretty jagged lose stones which make for pretty rough terrain). shortening the front cup peg at the bottom was pretty MVP, also the CVA's. on a earlier test it couldn't make it up a light slope (of jagged little rocks but still) now it'll just get up there.
didn't have a great drilling solution so I opted for some traxxxas 3x6mm sunken selftapping screws and some traxxxas 5mm sunken head washers which looks amazing and gets the job done (I think using a 5mm tamiya washer with a tamiya 3x6mm would actually be better as the washer is much thinner but this look pretty nice :P also used threadlock since...6mm instead of 10mm .
only disappointment that I'm considering fixing but it's 20 bucks to fix which...is a bit steep is that the CVA kit I got only had black medium springs rather then the 3 options. went with soft dampening oil and the 3 hole restrictor which seems fine but the spring is just a bit to strong...or the rocks are to jagged :P
rocking a celica GT-4 body (aftermarket which doesn't look as sharp as the tamiya body that came with the kit but it's the only game in town for that body so I'll take it :P also found the matching rims from tamiya which were silver for some reason..painted them which...isn't great...)
Hi and thanks for sharing your findings! Cool that you can see the difference in off-road performance. I like the way you came up with your own solutions, it's a part of the hobby that I really enjoy. Yes, I think the stock CVA springs are a little too stiff for rally. But if you start taking small jumps with the car they might pay dividends! love that GT-4 body, too! Cheers! :o)
@@MarkBryanRC i gotta say it's really fun going from a stock TT-02 ow this is neat, noticing some "issue's" and then finding solutions to it. and testing it afterward, did rob's mods that he did vs the XV-02 and before it was barely able to turn around in the driveway, now it only takes half the driveway (and the front's even higher ^^).
do wish I had known how much I was gone spend in hopup parts...and that's not counting the nice to have's I've got coming.
if I had a time machine i'd probably have just gotten a TT-02 SR, all of the pro's of the S with the hopup bits you'll probably end up getting anyway (SRX isn't compatible with the type S lower arm mods). do the diff's and driveterrain and call it a day.
or just get the XV-02 swallow that bitter up front pill but know that except perhaps an insanely expensive slipper clutch I'm done.
@@anub1s15 Oh yes it can get a bit pricey when you start adding multiple hop ups! I think the best option overall is to go straight for an XV01, mine is still totally stock and it's awesome! But that said, a lot of the fun, as you say, of the TT02 was working on it bit by bit and seeing it get better! Cheers! 😎👍👍
Sorry bro been on 7 nights 😭 got to catch up on everyone's vids 😳 really enjoyed this build as always, great info, ive got the tyres your talking about 😁 going to be brilliant off Road, carnt wait to see you doing the Body as you know no that is my favourite part of your builds lol. 😁 really enjoyed every minute of this Video my good Mate 👍😊😎🥰👍
All good Tony! Sorry for late reply, very busy mate! Yeah the tyres are the best you can get for rally IMO. Hope to start the body today at some point, I'm sinking in work too my friend. Really good of you to catch up, you are a star my mate! All the best as always! :))
Hi Bry, great video, full of fantastic tips, all of which I’ll be trying out on my TT01E kit. 😎👍👍👍🇬🇧
Thanks, Mikey Mike! I hope some of these tips work on the TT01 too! They just might, please let us know if they do. Have a smashing weekend my friend! :)
Nice going mark brilliant mods and yes I to get the same tyres for kaitlins pink scooby hope your keeping all good and having a great weekend
Many thanks, Kirkster! Good tyres ain't they? Hope you, the Missus and Kaitlin are enjoying the end of a nice weekend, mate! :)
Mark Bryan RC yes good them bro I’ve been working all over the weekend kaitlin says hi to you mark and the wife is all good to bro
@@NSRBOY250 Ahh, Bless! Thanks to the lovely Kaitlin, say hi to her for me, such a lovely girl! Glad all is good, hope you get a rest soon matey! :))
Mark Bryan RC will do mark 👍
MARK! Thank you for this video. Which servo do you recommend (did you use) for this RC? I'm building my first RC and really like this Rally Car's look.
And thank you for watching! The servo I used was a cheap Radient RSBS201PG Standard 5kg analog servo, which is just the job for this chassis! Cheers!
Just the video I was looking for, thank you my friend
Glad I could help! Thanks for taking the time to leave a positive comment, much appreciated my friend! :)
Very good mark, i learn a lot again👍👍
Go on my friend.
Hello, Fons, my friend. Always great to read you - best wishes from Mark... :-)
Cheers for advice just bought some new shocks
Great stuff, Sean, that's the best 👌 upgrade you could have made 👍 😀
Great tips on the suspension but when I put the longer mounts in the bottom of the shocks on the front the arms don’t drop enough to get full travel on the shock
Thanks very much, Stephen. Hmm, strange - I think mine did drop enough, maybe a mm or 2 left in the damper. If it's only a few mm, it shouldn't matter, just don't put the spacers on the spring or you will have too much preload. Hope it works out for you!
Mark I just love this guide! I start the build on mine tonight! I am still deciding on shocks. LHS is out of the mini CVA’s so I am grabbing a set of Yeah Racing shocks. There seem to always be more touring versions in stock than off-road though. Do you know off hand if the 65mm shocks are too long or would they fit? Can’t remember exactly but though the off-road ones were in either 60mm or 65mm.
Thanks again for such a great tutorial!
Hi and great to hear you found this stuff useful! Good luck with the build. I think 65mm will be a bit too long, but 60mm might work as long as the springs aren't too stiff as the gap is only about 55- 58mm with these mods. Squashing a longer shock in the gap will add a lot of preload to the spring. Drastic measure is to cut a bit of the coil off each spring, it's worked for me in the past! All the best my friend! :)
@@MarkBryanRC thanks for the advice! I do know one guy at the track is running Yeah Racing 60’s but I think they are the touring shocks. I’m hoping to find off-road version in 60mm if I can. Unless I can find the mini Tamiya CVA’s which seem to be popular and out of stock everywhere.
@@JFlyer1973 No probs! I have heard good things about those Yeah Racing shocks, I think they will do the trick for you. Hehe, those Tamiya CVA's are like rocking horse poo!!! 😂
Mark, do not know if you will pick this up but here goes. These mods have got me wanting to do one. Can you seee any pitfalls using a TT-02S? Read it comes with some upgrades. Oil filled shocks (might be too short) but no probs if so AND metal drive shafts,these are the possible concern?
Hi Gary - I promise I try to pick up all comments - it will be a mistake on my part if I don't, as some comments seem to go missing in RUclips sometimes.
I see no pitfalls in using a TT02S - in fact it makes a FANTASTIC rally car with a few little mods. I have done a full video series on building upgrading the Type-S for rally. It was so good that it beat my XV01 rally car in a race-off! It has so many upgrades included in the kit, you won't believe it. The best news is you don't need to spend any money or buy any parts for the conversion. Here is a link to my playlist of the TT02 Type-S: ruclips.net/video/2kXtG7BmEMs/видео.html
Love the mods…. How does it compare to the ground clearance to a tt-02b ? I wonder..
Thanks, Michael! Hmm, the ground clearance is limited compared to the TT02B, largely due to the much smaller wheels and tyres of the rally car. The rally car still does very well on the rough though! Cheers!
Great info on the mods Mark keep up the good work. What would you say is your favourite Tamiya chassis? No doubt there are more capable of road chassis than the TT 02, however I think they look the best in terms of scale.
Thanks very much, Kevin. Hmm, as far as rally cars is concerned, I love the XV01 chassis, but up there with it is the TT02 Type-S, an awesome upgraded version of the TT02 with completely different and infinitely better suspension. For the price, about £130 without a body, it's a winner!
Well done Mark. Great work showing the difference between the two versions and personally I would prefer the off road version. lol These are pretty impressive looking rigs and I do enjoy the Subaru the most of all of the bodies I think. Thanks again for sharing your experiences and knowledge of these kits for others. Well done brother.. :)
Hi Nick - thanks for the support, brother - yeah this thing can definitely rally with a few simple mods. I agree, rally is more fun than road running, although that has it's moments, too. Thank you for the encouragement, always appreciated my friend! :-)
Fantastic stuff, and really interesting. Top work. 👍😎
Thanks, Steve! I really enjoyed tinkering with this chassis, made it more rewarding than just following the manual - let's hope all the mods work OK! Have a cracking weekend, mare! :))
What a great video Mark, lots of great mods and information. Now I can't wait to start the build but need to work on the wife's Impala and my old Chrysler. These tt02s look very tough, doesn't look like they need many upgrades apart from those terrible fake shocks some come with. I changed them on the midnight pumpkin to. Great video mate enjoy these builds.
Thanks very much, Peter! This is a great platform to start with and you can do a lot to improve it without spending tons of cash! Good luck with the 1/1 size cars! Yeah, those shocks need sending to the bin, a good CVA will always make all the difference. Take care my friend! :))
@@MarkBryanRC thanks Mark ,I learn a lot from you and Mick from rc hobby shed. He just tortured a new kyosho Mad Van, you guys really give these cars a decent bashing, always great to watch.
I saw Mick's van run and it was awesome! No point putting these things on the shelf, they are made to be driven, and driven hard! :O)
@@MarkBryanRC it was a bash and a half , he was laughing which made me laugh. No way my 4s Arrma outcast would survive that. You blokes really know how to have fun. Take care mate.
I agree - if you can't have a laugh with an RC there's no point! Love hearing the giggles, too. Take care and keep having fun! :-)
Hi Mark, FReally enjoyed these 2 great vids on the mods. I have returned to the hobby after many years so a lot is new. Can i ask if there is a rally car with this amount of travel as standard.i see there is a TT-01 TT-02 and additional letters following. If not this is a absolute must.
Thanks a bunch, Gary! Lots of us are the same, coming back after a long break, I'm back after 20 years! I don't know of a current Tamiya kit with this much travel as a standard rally car. Hope you find one you like! :)
Hey love your guides. Ive just purchased my very first tamiya TT02 and cant wait to get deep into the hobby. You mention these stainless steel hex Heads in almost every video but i cant seem to find what i need to search for to buy a complete set to change them all out. Have you got a link?
Thanks Kieran! Have fun with that new TT02! As for the stainless screws, I can't find anyone that sells sets for Tamiya cars. I buy bags of 50 or 100 screws of the different lengths (10, 12 and 15mm). Here is a link to the eBay shop I get them from:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181024489629?hash=item2a25e6809d:g:cf4AAOSwj6lbvJDw
@@MarkBryanRC hey just followed your link and added the following 10mm and 12mm but their is no 15mm in the drop down option will 16mm be alright, thanks for the response keep up the good work 👍🏼
@@MarkBryanRC also is it only M3 required? Cheers again
@@DempZe Yep. you only need M3 screws. TBH you can probably get away without the 15mm screws as there are only a couple in most Tamiya kits, but if you do go for them I'm sure 16mm will be OK! I just use the stock screws when there are only a few of them. :)
Cheers!
Some very useful Info there. Thx alot!
Do you glue the tires to the rims when you plan on using brushed motors only?
Hi there and good to hear that you found it useful! No, if you fit tyre foams the tyres usually don't need glue, especially with brushed motors. 😎👌👍
@MarkBryanRC thx for your reply. Its very much appreciated!
@@AsurasWrath164 no worries dude 👌 👍
Hey Mark Great Video! But I was wondering where you got the Stainless Steel screws for the build?..
Thanks Surman! I got the stainless screws from eBay! Just search for stainless allen screws!
@@MarkBryanRCI know you mention they’re 10mm long, what’s the diameter please? 3mm? I’d like to get some in order and don’t have my TT-02 yet. Thanks!
@@simonhinchcliffe Hi Simon. They are M3 machine screws. M3 = 3mm, so yes you were correct! Hope you can get some soon! 😎🤞👍
Hey Mark, Finally got the time to sit and watch the whole vid. I think new shocks will work well, rallying needs a softer set up than touring cars. I wonder if there is an aftermarket shock with a set of various strength springs. The rear was so much easier to mod then the front. Rocks can get in the 540 motor vents. I use cheese cloth or window bug screen to cover them. Are you going to run a 2s Lipo on this set up?? Great tutorial, looks like you are going to hit 4k subs soon, Have a great weekend bro👍🏾👍🏾
Hi Bro - thanks for finding the time to watch this rather long video! Yeah, soft is the way to go on rally shocks for sure. Need to soak up those bumps! Some shocks do come with a set of different strength springs, Yeah Racing do, I think. Good to have a selection. Good idea with the motor cover. I certainly will try the only 2S I have in this one on it's first run, but that may be a while as I haven't even started the body yet! All good, Paul, hit 4K today and I'm over the moon - thanks for coming along my brother! :-)
Congrats Mark, your channel is a great place to kick back and enjoy a variety of tutorials, runs and reviews. You are so personable and interactive, really natural and authentic. Like I said before, I used to watch your channel way before I started my own because of the Tamiyas and Rallying. You will keep growing. My next upload was inspired by you and Derek from Holy Hill RC. Both of you got me building stuff again. Will try to put it up soon. Congrats again Brother. You really make RC fun.
Thanks again Bro - really good to read your comments, I promise the me you see is the real me, there is no possibility I could do it any other way! Your channel will keep growing, too, just keep doing "you" too! Now you got me intrigued, looking forward to that video, Paul! :))
Thank you! I found your channel and have been binge watching all of your videos haha. Your meticulous style is greatly appreciated especially since your videos are very interesting at the same time (not boring at all!). I had one question about the stainless cap screws, do you have a link by any chance? I'm not sure exactly which size to get. Thanks again!
Hello my friend! Thanks for watching, greatly appreciated! Here is a link to those cap screws, I mainly use the 10mm and 12mm long screws to replace the Tamiya ones: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221107048515
Cheers! :)
@@MarkBryanRC Thank you sir! Oh okay those are just M3 machine screws, button head allen... but are you using those in lieu of the self-tapping screws? They work fine?
@@jediradekcrif9568 Yep, just machine screws. I have used them in most of my Tamiya kits and have not had one issue with them, they are a great replacement. Tamiya does use a lot of machine threads into plastic, like the 5mm ball connectors for shock and steering mounts!
@@MarkBryanRC thanks man!!!
Wow man, What a difference. I will do it with mine
Cheers, man, glad you found it useful! Good luck with the mods on your TT02!!! :O)
@@MarkBryanRC
The TT02 is too low for a Rally car
with your mods will be perfectly fine.
This is mine, it's a Lancia
ruclips.net/video/ENR6FZXV5R0/видео.html&ab_channel=GastonMaqueda
@@GastonMaqueda Just watched your video, Gaston, excellent stuff my friend! :)
@@MarkBryanRC
Thanks bro
@@GastonMaqueda No worries! :)
Hey Bryan.
Great guide.
Would you recommend a Basic TT02 or the S Version of your Audi?
Thanks for your work 👍
Hi Martin - thanks for the kind words. If I had the choice, I would definitely go for the Type-S over the standard TT02 kit. There are so many improved hop-up parts included. Mainly, the suspension components are so much better in design and performance. Best wishes from Mark... :)
@@MarkBryanRC Thank you. I will go with a type s and follow your guide. 😁
@@Kxen-Raya Cool - I know you will enjoy it! :)
Hi Mark,
Great video which has inspired me to build my own TT02 rally spec. I especially like your front uprights mod which enables more ground clearance. BTW, just ordered a dust cover for the TT02 chassis (made by Kamtec in the UK) so hopefully I won’t need to worry anymore about debris getting caught in the chassis and jamming the steering and drive shaft 😀
Cool, thanks Shouwn! Oh yee, I've seen those dust covers, and Kamtec is a great company, I've had great products from them in the past. No more steering jams for you! Best regards from Mark... :)
@@MarkBryanRC I tried to increase the ride height of my TT02 using long shock bottom (as per your recommendation) but I found that my driveshafts were 'shuddering' excessively (I'm using Yeah Racing CVD's) so I had to use the standard shock bottoms to ensure smooth operation. Wondering if you have this problem with the standard drive shafts???
@@shouwnoosting6030 Wow - if you got shuddering with CVD's you must have managed to get more travel than I did - no, the standard driveshafts on mine drive very smoothly!
@@MarkBryanRC interesting 🤔 I’m also using Yeah Racing adjustable upper suspension arms so wonder if that is giving me additional suspension travel compared to standard arms???
@@shouwnoosting6030 Yes, it could well be the Yeah racing parts that are making the difference - a great hop-up, too! :)
Hi Mark. Well, the car is shaping up nicely. I see you've been able to leverage some suspension mods from my build. Always happy to help if I can. One minor difference that I've noticed with my build however is that I've used metal washers under the button head screws on the LOWER ball joints. I think the metal washer will function more effectively as a thrust bearing than that stock plastic washer. Nearly half of the car's weight is carried by these two lower ball joint screws and as they become packed with dirt they tend to drag and create additional work for the servo. I think perhaps having metal-on-metal will reduce drag. Dirt also packs the lower ball joints seizing them in the suspension arms rendering the front suspension virtually useless. This is the problem with this design but I may have a solution and once I have it sorted I'll update my post on RC10talk.com. Meanwhile, I'm very much looking forward to your next installment. Cheers Mark!
Hiya Accelerate! Many thanks for the info! Yeah, I took inspiration for that bottom suspension fix - thanks! I used that plastic washer because I didn't have any 8mm cap screws left - the 10mm ones just protruded into the drive cup area so I needed a spacer. Will redo that when I get some more. I'll look out for the ball joints clogging up - thanks again! Hope your solution is a success. Now I'm looking forward to driving this one, it may be a while as I'm very busy at the moment, and I still got that awesome body to do. Cheers bud! :))
@@MarkBryanRC Yeah, if they weren't bad enough already, there's a slit in the plastic ball apparently to allow it to pop into the arm more easily. This gap just lets more debris into the joint. Also, the soil here is rocky and sandy so it's the worst possible scenario.
Anyway, thank you for the report on those China rally block tires. I was eyeing those on ebay and was curious if they were good. I'll get a set on order. The stock Tamiya tires wear like iron but it might be nice to try a set in a softer rubber compound. Thanks again Mark!
@@bamabiker750 Yeah, those split ball joints have a lot to answer for! Crap! The soft rip-off tyres are surprisingly good, although they do wear fast on hard surfaces, at least they are grippy and cheap to replace! Take it easy my friend! :-)
Hi Mark. Great video! I've just built this today and used some of your tips 👍. Can I just ask about the grease you've used to stiffen up the diffs. Will doing this reduce the acceleration or top speed or put more strain on things? Genuinely don't know, not saying it will 😄. Cheers 👍
Thanks very much! Glad you could use some of the tips. As for the diff, when the car is running straight, the gears in the diff don't move, so no, the grease doesn't have any impact on performance. The gears in the diff only move when one side is turning faster than the other (eg when cornering or if one of the wheels is spinning on loose ground). This is when the thicker grease stops the faster moving wheel spinning as much, helping to give traction to the wheel running at normal speed. This all helps the car get traction, but doesn't stress the diff. Hope this makes sense! :))
@@MarkBryanRC that's great thanks! 👍. It goes great off road. Got it to race against my rally modded TT-01E and my XV-01.
Oh yeah, sounds like you have a good time coming up! Great cars to race against! :)
Thanks for this video! I have been following with my own TT02 911 rally build! @13:30 when you talk about step 24. Parts B12 don’t fit horizontal therefore creating a tie out on the front wheels. Have you found any way to avoid this? I see you spacer, but it still looks like you have a toe out later in the video.
I’m going to try to flip A3 parts.
Hi Tom, glad you found it useful! Yeah, even with those spacers there is a tiny bit of toe-out, TBH it does look worse because of the wide angle lens used in the video. With the car sat down on the suspension it's almost no-toe! What I need to do though is add some adjustable tie rods like I did on my TT02 road car build. Hope your build is going well - cheers! :))
@@MarkBryanRC adjustable tie rods sounds like a good plan. I couldn’t get A3 to fit flipped. Thanks.
@@TJFNixon The Tamiya hop-up tie rod set for the TT01 is a straight fit for the TT02! 👌👍
@@MarkBryanRC thanks. Is it the 53662 set?
Yep, that's the one! :)
Hey Mark, Wonderful video...I was wondering if you could help me with one little question I am confused about. In the front of the Manual for building the SUBURU, there are set up instructions for either a 251m or 257m. If I remember correctly, this is for the alignment of the wheels to the body. NOWHERE do the instructions inform me of which set up to use, and as this is my first TAMIYA TT02 build, (YES, I'm AMBITIOUS AND WANT to build like you for off-road) what exactly am I looking at for this?
Hi Joseph, thanks for the kind words. No problem, the Subaru body fits the 257mm wheelbase. It's unusual to have a body that is 251mm, but I suppose there must be a few out there. I wish you luck with your first TT02 build, take your time and it will come out fantastic. If you need any help, just drop me a comment, but I'm sure you will be fine. All the best from Mark... :)
Thanks for this build series
And thank you for watching, much appreciated here! :O)
Hey Mark. Love your videos and have been following for a while. I did have a question about TT02s and gearing. Im not new to rc by any means (over 20 years in the hobby), but newish to electric powered cars (3 years). So far I have burned up two Tamiya motors, a Torque tuned and a Sport tuned, in my TT02's that I set up for rally. In one I ended up adding a 15T 550 and fans and 15T pinion, and it seems to be better, but it seems no matter what Pinion and spur I use the tamiya Torque and sports tuned keep getting blazing hot without even going through a full battery. Any advice? I could just get another 15T 550 but I would rather be able to run my TT02s with Tamiya motors. Thanks again and thank you for the videos! Keep them coming!
Hey Tim - many thanks for the kind words. As for the TT02 and overheating, I must say I've never had a problem. I use the Torque Tuned motor with the TBLE02s in all my rally cars. I am using mainly 22T pinion and standard spurs. I do have alloy heatsinks fitted to the motors, and run NiMh and 2S LiPo. Can't understand why yours overheats, unless you are running in deep grass or mud? Does it happen when running on road? - what ESC and batteries are you using? Very strange indeed! Hope you find a solution, my friend. All the best from Mark... :)
@@MarkBryanRC Hey Mark, thanks for the quick reply. So late evening I tried a different esc and went back up to a 19 tooth pinion and that seems to have made the difference. I was running Tamiya's TBLE-02S in both then switched to a Hobbywing 1060. Then went up to 19t pinion from 15t and so far things have been good. Don't know what the real reason for the high temps. Running on road and in a home made dirt track meant for my short course trucks. But I tell you, the Tamiya kits I've been getting are so much better than the big SC trucks. I love my Tamiya cars and waiting on a Hornet. And seriously I love the work you do and will be waiting for you next video. Thanks again Mark!
You are very welcome, Tim - I do try to answer all comments and questions, but it can take a while due to the amount of comments, work and other commitments! Glad you hear you are making some progress into the issue. Must be something to do with the motor / ESC combination. The tracks you are running on shouldn't cause a problem. Great to hear you are enjoying the Tamiyas! Good man! And thanks for watching and the kind comments, always appreciated my friend. 😎
Hi Mark, another well made and informative video, thanks again! A question re the suspension mods - with the changes that you've made here, would it still be possible to revert the cars ride to an on-road one? Say you wanted to switch to an alternative set of wheels shod with slick tyres for some tarmac stages?! A bit of wrench time I know, but would the alternations still make that a possibility?
Cheers, James
Thanks very much, James! But yes, it is certainly possible to revert the mods to a near stock setup. To swap the uprights back to stock would be the most time consuming, but easy to do. However, the biggest difference would be to swap the shock bottoms for the shortest ones. The fastest option would be to have a spare set of shocks set-up with a shorter distance, eye-to-eye, say, 50mm. It would then only take a couple of minutes to pop the shocks on and off the ball joint mounts!
Cheers,
Mark :-)
Thank you very for sharing sir... Happy New Year.keep safe always
Same to you, Gary! :O)
8:22 im pretty sure pogo sticks can't flex like that.
If you have any of those pogo shocks try it and see! 😎👍
My friend and thank you for sharing it with us, very nice job on the vide & the car👊😜👍#126
Thank you so much Xavier! 👍
It is great to see your message - I'm really pleased you enjoyed the video my friend! Best wishes from Mark... :)
@@MarkBryanRC No problem, and thank you Mark 👊😉✌
Looks great. Can you tell me what wheel widths you used ?
Thanks, Ian! I think the wheels are 26mm wide - they are the stock wheels that are supplied in the kit - all the best, my friend! :-)
Hello Mark. Thank you for the great content, especially on the TT02 platform. Looking to buy my first TT02 kit and I was wondering if you could give me some advice between the various sets. Tempted by the Subaru kit for the rally setup but also considering the TT02S and TT02R. Which one is the best option if I’m looking for a platform I could use both on road and off road by maybe changing a few pieces? Thanks
Thank you Arnaud for the nice comment! In terms of performance and value for money, I would recommend the TT02 Type S chassis. The suspension setup is far superior to the stock TT02, and it comes with excellent hop-ups, including bearings, CVA shocks, steel drive shafts and drive cups and much more. It is quite easy to modify the A arms to give the ground clearance needed for rally running. If you are interested, this video shows how I adapted the suspension at zero cost:
ruclips.net/video/6kWMvdDhoiM/видео.html
Happy RC-ing!
Longer screws on top too. Why isn't the upper front control arm triangular?
Yeah! Not sure about the front upper arms but the setup is pretty robust. Cheers! 😎👍
Hey nice videos! What screws do you use exactly? M2 M2.5 M3 M4 M5 M6?
Thank you very much! The screws are M3 - 10mm 12mm and 15mm long! Cheers! 😎👍
Had one question. What type of run-times are you getting? Was thinking about 5,000 mah batts. THANK you.
Hi there! I'm getting about 25-35 minutes on a 3600mAh NiMh depending on the surface I'm running on. Cheers! 😎👍
Hello friend is this model good for Onroad tarmac Races?
Thks for sharing..
Hello friend, yes it is good for on-road racing! This chassis actually has it's own racing class in many RC clubs and is highly regarded. Many thanks for the question and best wishes from Mark... :))
Hi Mark, what oil did you use for the upgraded shocks? Thank you :)
Hi Freddie - I'm pretty sure it was Hobby King #700 weight silicone shock oil - thanks for watching my friend! :o)
@@MarkBryanRC Thanks Mark, will be looking to installing these on mine :)
the part that is amazing for me is that no one gets the fail of assembly to the front knuckles... the stoppers of the knuckle should be on the top even the manual shows that
That's because the video is about making mods to the stock setup in order to increase off road performance. :O)
@@MarkBryanRC I understand that mate...ok!we agre to disagree
That's cool - it's OK to disagree - but maybe I'm missing your point?
I thought I had shown how to assemble and mod the knuckles for the HIGH setting. Are the "stoppers" you refer to part A6? If so, if you pause the video at 2:44 you can clearly see the manual and the stopper is at the bottom.
The part of the manual at 1:50 that shows the stopper at the top is for the low ride height setting. The bit that says HIGH on the manual at that point is telling you to turn to P18 for those instructions!
Hope this clears it up, mate! Thanks a ton, Mikael! We got so much footage that there may be more of these videos to come! Thanks for watching, and enjoy the crazy football, I'll be watching it myself, tonight, with a cold beer or three! - Come On England!
Cheers, my mate! 😎👍
@@MarkBryanRC the point is why the steering ends lower your steering angle cuz if the knuckles for hi clearance must be upside down then the problem that occur with the tips of steering end is factory fault.
Ahh, now I see what you mean - yes, I think it is a design fault!!!
Litt morsomt, hadde du satt vanstre upright på høyre side, hadde du sluppet for alt den sliping og tilpasning.
Google translate says you wrote:
A little funny, had you put the left upright on the right side, you would have let go of all the grinding and fitting.
If only it was that simple, my friend! I think you have your kits confused! :-)
@@MarkBryanRC så har du et annet TT-02 kit enn det jeg har. For i mitt kit, ønsker jeg høy bakke klerering, så sier instruksjonboka, akkurat det jeg beskrev. Men jeg skal ikke avvise at Tamiya har endret dette, fra din til de 8 stks jeg har. Sorry jeg skrev, du gjør det på din måte, så holder jeg meg til min metode. Ha en fin dag.
I translate you comment as:
"then you have a different TT-02 kit than the one I have. Because in my kit, I want high ground clearance, so says the instruction manual, exactly what I described. But I will not deny that Tamiya has changed this, from yours to the 8 pieces I have. Sorry I wrote, you do it your way, so I stick to my method. Have a nice day."
My Reply:
Ahh - this is very strange! If your TT02 can have the front suspension raised simply by swapping the uprights from left and right, it must be very different indeed! As you can see from my video, this is not the case with my new TT02 Subaru Imprezza kit. I am pleased you wrote - at least we know there are differences in TT02 kits. Thanks for your reply, I wish you a very nice day too! :)
Hiya mark, after talking with you the otherday ive gone and purchased a Tamiya TT-02 ford escort cosworth and now just trying to round up all the bits I'll need for the conversion. can i ask where did you get the screws from?
Hi Jordan. Great choice of kit! I know you will love it. Here is a link to the M3 screws I got from eBay:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221107048515
Happy New Year!
@@MarkBryanRC thank you mate building the kit as we speak and happy new year to you too matey
those are come cool mods !!
Thanks, Karen, much appreciated! :))
Great video again. So if I was looking at after market shocks go 60mm instead of 55mm?
Cheers, Mark! Yeah, 60mm seems to be about right, but when looking for shocks, check to see what is included - e.g. the Fastrax shocks come with different shock bottoms, so like the Tamiya ones, you can tune for the best length. Thanks for watching my friend! :)
Do you glue your tyres on to the rims for off road?
Hi Mark - with the Tamiya rally blocks and a stock motor, no - they stay on fine without glue. The Chinese knock-off are softer and need glue. With a brushless setup, I think even the Tamiyas need glue! :)
@@MarkBryanRC cheers Mark, yes I have cheaper tyres for my M05RA and they do need gluing. Came off the rims on first drive.
HeHe - yes I had exactly the same experience, Mark! :))
Have you got a part number for the ball ends by any chance?
Thanks for the tips couple I did now already which I've already done but the bull ends a very good mod
Hi Pete - here is the name and number of the ball connectors I used:
Tamiya 9804205/19804205 5mm Ball Connector
Hope this helps! :)
Extremely valuable 😊
Thank you Jay! 😎👍
Is there a parts list for the parts youve added across the 3 vids?
Ah, sorry but there isn't a list of parts. Thanks for mentioning it, it would be a great idea to have one, I'll work on it! Cheers!