Window Sash Glazing Test

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  • Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
  • Sample panels for side-by-side field testing of various glazing compounds and putties and their adhesion to various pre-treatments of the glazing rabbets.
    This brief update was done on 5/9/14. The tests were placed in 2005 and 2007.
    For more information on window sash glazing go to:
    saveamericaswin...
    John Leeke
    www.HistoricHomeWorks.com

Комментарии • 19

  • @ikust007
    @ikust007 Год назад

    Brilliant . Merci

  • @djacobelmer
    @djacobelmer 3 года назад

    Great video. I am a restoration painter. In my opinion an accurate representation of how glaze holds up to the elements would have to include being painted with a coat of oil primer and two coats of latex paint.

    • @johnleeke
      @johnleeke  3 года назад +1

      Dennis, This test is about how the putty adheres to the glazing rabbet. You have an excellent idea for a test. I encourage everyone to test out their best methods and materials using the Scientific Method. I currently have one test going that compares latex house paint and oil-based enamel on top of the putty in a wooden window sash exposed to the elements. The putty was primed first with oil-based primer. The test was placed 8 years ago and I'm expecting some results in 15 to 20 years.

  • @benvoncamp
    @benvoncamp 6 лет назад +1

    I watched this a few years ago and in the meantime have gotten down to work restoring about 60 window sashes. I am now biting myself in the butt for those I rushed through without priming the rabbets. I started sweating until I remembered that I did, indeed, shellac the 18 light front door before glazing.
    One question still: everyone has plenty of hate for DAP 33. Is this based on results and long-term performance or problems with it in the process of actually glazing? I am currently using DAP and possibly only because I don't know any better, have achieved good results and speed.

    • @johnleeke
      @johnleeke  6 лет назад

      I don't hate DAP 33, but I do recognize its characteristics and consider them when selecting a glazing compound:
      ==> consistency can be variable, from too loose and sticky, to crusty with lumps
      ==> contains materials that can be risky to health and the environment
      ==> less durable in service than other putties and compounds
      With that said, it could be OK to use it, if that is the only compound you can get. But you should be looking for another putty that will be better.
      More on selecting putty in the Save America's Windows book in print:
      saveamericaswindows.com/get-the-book/
      Or, you can now get the chapter on glazing sash as a PDF download:
      historichomeworks.com/downloads/glazing-and-painting-wood-sashes/

  • @kenderchasse
    @kenderchasse 7 лет назад +1

    Excellent information! What are your thoughts on traditional glazing, linseed oil and whiting? I have not tried most of the glazes you have in your video but I do prefer it to the DAP 33.

    • @johnleeke
      @johnleeke  7 лет назад +1

      I prefer traditional methods and materials. Check out this discussion at my website:saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7

  • @j.r.5830
    @j.r.5830 7 лет назад

    John You ARE THE BEST! I cant thank you enough all the work you have done!
    I have a couple of questions.
    I am not yet clear as to what I want to use as a pre-treatment but sounds like Penatrol (assuming you are talking about the Alkyd & linseed oil solution ie paint additive buyat.ppg.com/rep_pafpainttools_files/Flood/tdb/FD_FLD4C_CAEN.pdf) is a good choice .... am I just as good off using a straight boiled linseed oil?
    Have you done any more testing similar to this?
    I am specifically looking at using Sarco Dual Glaze ... I might also have enough windows to do in shop and will possibly look at also using Sarco M

  • @justtisha
    @justtisha 4 года назад

    Wow this is awesome!!! I am recently starting to deglaze my windows. I waited to get Sarco bc there were so many negative comments about dap33. However, dap 33 looks like its held up amazing...and that aquaglaze! Maybe I should just use that?

    • @johnleeke
      @johnleeke  4 года назад +2

      Nope, go with Sarco and not DAP. This test just shows adhesion characteristics, and does not show overall performance in a glazed sash.

    • @justtisha
      @justtisha 4 года назад

      @@johnleeke how much of the original glaze needs to be removed? I feel like I'm wasting a lot of time being too perfect? And is it okay to do boiled linseed mixed with turpentine..or should I prime? The outsides were painted. The insides were stained. I'm stuck on what to do next. They are cleaned up pretty well

    • @johnleeke
      @johnleeke  4 года назад

      @@justtisha , you may only have to remove the putty that is loose. If you don't want to remove all the putty, learn what to do here at my website:
      historichomeworks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1574
      If you have removed all of the old putty, you can learn about applying all new putty here at my window website:
      saveamericaswindows.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=7

  • @TamaraInCyberspace
    @TamaraInCyberspace 5 лет назад

    Why is the Sarco M so wrinkly?

    • @johnleeke
      @johnleeke  5 лет назад

      Sarco Type M has driers in it that make it skin over faster that other putties such as Sarco DualGlaze. The skin forms and begins to harden up while the putty beneath is still soft and pliable. At my workshops and training sessions I pass this test board around and people get to poke at the putty to see what it is like. It wrinkled here because of all that poking. It does not usually wrinkle when used as glazing on a sash.

  • @JAlvisllc
    @JAlvisllc 8 лет назад

    So whats the verdict? Aqua Glaze?

    • @johnleeke
      @johnleeke  7 лет назад +1

      Verdict: Not Guilty.
      Aqua Glaze is not guilty of being the best, nor the worst glazing compound. Every putty and glazing compound has certain characteristics. Aqua Glaze dries fast and can be ready for painting much sooner than oil-based putties, but it tends to crack if it dries too fast, and its long-term performance is unproven. I use it for quick spot putty repairs where the putty line is just two or three inches long.

    • @JAlvisllc
      @JAlvisllc 7 лет назад +1

      Thanks for your response. Wondering if theres a result in this test that would make you not use a product at all?

    • @johnleeke
      @johnleeke  7 лет назад

      The result of this test is that there is usually better putty adhesion when using a pre-treatment in the glazing rabbet, confirming the traditional practice of using pre-treatment.
      Do you work on windows professionally?

    • @JAlvisllc
      @JAlvisllc 7 лет назад +1

      I'm a professional woodworker. Currently building a new house for myself and making all the windows. Learned enough to decide on single pane glazed with storm windows. Very interesting process convincing the building department to allow single pane windows in new construction. I'm also planning on using Linseed paint on the windows as well. Your articles and forum have been the best resource. The article on Clapboard siding, which I found on "Ward Clapboards" website is very well done.