Window Sash Painting
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
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Step 9d. Paint.
Apply primer to putty bevels and interior seals. Lap primer 1/16" onto the glass, painting "to the line," allow to dry. Apply two top coats of paint to entire sash except side edges and face margins and top and bottom edges if they are not being painted. (Use best quality exterior house paint. Waterborne 100% acrylic paint is good, as is oil-based alkyd resin paint.) Lap paint 1/8" onto to glass. If you can (with practice) lap the paint onto the glass just a bare 1/32" to 1/16", so much the better. Allow paint to dry and cure thoroughly.
The over-paint-and-scrape-back method is problematic. Slopping paint onto a wide margin of the glass and then coming back to scrape it off takes more time time than painting to a line. Slow down and learn to paint to a line, you will be saving time after three to five sashes. (Yes, you can learn to do it, I have taught 13 year old kids, and 72 year old grandmothers to do it, by showing them just once.)
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Copyright 2014 John C Leeke
This is great!! I have over 450 window panes in my house..that does not include the detached kitchen or slave quarters either...."what did you do last summer?...I hand cleaned, glazed, primed and painted window panes non-stop". Now I know why they are called "panes"..its just spelled wrong though
You paint much like I was taught. My father taught me and he learned years ago from a career painter - before painting became something "anyone can do." Practice, a steady hand and plenty of paint sure help when cutting a nice straight line. Thanks for your clear demonstration of good technique.
I also like that your sweater matched the paint quite well which added to the overall neat appearance. Why do so many painters show up at the job in the morning covered in paint?
In this case the sashes have been removed from the window for complete refurbishing, including deglazing, wood repairs, reglazing and painting in the shop. Each sash is painted separately. After the paint is completely dry the sashes are hung back in the window frame in the wall.
It's possible to paint all of the interior of both sashes in place, moving the sashes up and down to get to tops and bottoms of the meeting rails, then go outside and do the same for the exterior.
John
you are a master painter....
Master painter? Nope, just a dumb putty head.
I love your books, videos and countless advice posts, so please don't take this as criticism!
I do not paint 'out of the can,' ever. I use a "paint pot": I take an empty paint can (these days, ones with plastic sides), and remove the lid flange, using a 5-in-one tool to cut it out. That makes it much easier to tap the sides of the can to remove excess paint before a painting stroke. And do note the brush (properly used, as you show) only releases the paint at the tips, so far less paint needs to be picked up per stroke and this leads less build-up on the brush, over time. The paint pot use also means less paint is exposed to air, and therefore less evaporation & drying in the can. And the biggie: if (and when) a pot gets knocked over (or a bug or dirt is blown in) there is less mess to deal with.
Chris, thanks for your kind words and no offense taken. I, too, use a paint pot exactly as you describe. You can see it later in this same video: ruclips.net/video/pXiDm6u_CWM/видео.html . I always use a pot when I'm painting all day. But, when I have just one or two sash I might paint out of the can because it takes less time and effort to be careful of rim than to clean up the paint pot. Different strokes, for different folks.
No dumb questions.
If you have double-hung sashes that slide up and down, paint the face but do not paint the side edges of the sashes, nor the tracks. Also, there is a little strip, or margin, of the face along the edges of the sashes, that rubs on sides of the tracks, don't paint those margins, especially if you are using a latex or acrylic paint.
Thanks for your story about how you learned glazing & painting.
>>I also like that your sweater matched the paint quite well which added to the overall neat appearance. Why do so many painters show up at the job in the morning covered in paint?
If you use linseed paint the wood never rots or needs painting again.
Would it not be best to show the window hung??? I wanted to know how you paint the two separate halves. Which half first or do you do both at once or let one dry first?
I don't claim to be a painter. I'm just a guy who fixes windows. The reason I share what I know is to help others fix their windows.
So, MrAllank, why is a brush a sash brush?
I am beginning to do this work on my house. I have what is probably a dumb question. To you paint just the face and leave the sides and the track unpainted, or do you paint everything? Your response is very much appreciated.
John, is this Sarco M or a different linseed oil based putty? I noticed you've primed the putty on top--have you also primed the rabbet? Is this sandwiching between primer the best way? It makes sense to me that you would want plenty of oil based primer on and underneath putty which tends to fail *mostly* when it is leached of its oil by the wood and exposure to the elements, --however, Sarco M specifies *not* to do this. Based on your extensive experience, what are your thoughts?
Carlos, I routinely use Sarco Type M putty and prime it with California's oil-based fast-dry primer after it has skinned over. Then I proceed with two top coats of California's 2010 100% acrylic house paint. I realize that priming Type M putty is contrary to the recommendation of the manufacturer, but have used this combination of products and methods for nearly ten years without problems.
I do prime or pre-treat the glazing rabbet to prevent the wood from sucking oil out of the putty, which can cause putty adhesion problems.
Hi John--this is interesting. Can I ask what is your reasoning behind sandwiching the putty between two coats of oil primer? I really appreciate all the expert advice you share with us novices. Thanks so much!
It's not really "sandwiching," it's just two things that are done with primer, but for different reasons. First, the wood surfaces of the glazing rabbet need to be sealed so they don't pull oil out of the putty making it weak. Traditionally this sealing was done with a mixture of linseed oil and turpentine, which still works. It can also be done with oil-based primer, which makes sense if the sash is getting primed anyway. Then, after placing the glass and putty, I prime the surface of the putty. The purpose of the primer is to help the pant stick to the surface, in this case, the surface of the putty. The primer and paint are designed to be applied in three layers to make up a paint film that has a certain flexibility and strength, resistance to weather, etc. If the primer is left out the paint film may not be as good as it could be with the primer. That's why I put primer on the putty, even though some putty manufacturers do not recommend it.