NEW Avid CNC - First Mini Production Run!
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- Опубликовано: 14 ноя 2022
- In this video, I'm sharing my first small Avid CNC production run with you! I made 15 wooden trays using my Avid Pro 4848 CNC machine and learned a lot in the process.
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Check this out - Avid Setup Playlist - ruclips.net/p/PLp-J1-xoURvWZjOlJOGEQk91BNas_7npH
It must be you bro.....I love your camera presence! Ive been in the CNC world and got out of it a few years ago. But now im back and the machines are cheaper and better than ever! Of all the videos I have watched.....I keep coming back to yours. Keep it up and youre killin it !!!
Thanks for the kind words, Paul! Glad you're enjoying the videos
It's not uncommon for the finishing path to take deep cuts to even up the edges, especially depending on what bits you're using for both, even when you are correctly setting the cut depth on both toolpaths. You can also remedy this by setting your cut depth by editing the bit from within the toolpath using the edit button -- these edits are "local" to that particular toolpath and bit combo and do not change the global bit settings. You can set the depth of cut for the bit there to something smaller, by default those bits are probably setup to take a pretty deep cut. And yes, this can still happen even if you use the same 0-{full depth} on both the roughing and finishing path. This is even more important if/when you start doing more complex 2.5D or 3D carves. Good luck and thanks for sharing! Also one other thing to watch out for, depending on who's bits your using ... but lately I've seen a LOT of bit databases that you download from manufacturers with super wrong info for the cutting details of the bit! Especially SpeTool -- it's so bad with them that I'm just going to stop using them, I tried to reach out to their support about it and they just keep closing the tickets and just don't seem to care. In the cases I reported they just can't be bothered to put in proper settings for using mm (which I use pretty much exclusively) ... they have been just copying over the same values as imperial (and I can tell you that 100 ipm and 100 mm/min are very different LOL).
This is a great overview of an initial product production process refinement. Excited to see other tray designs using the same process depending on the time of year.
It's a learning process but I feel like I'm getting in a groove!
Originally I intended to purchase a Shapoko. Listening to the difficulties you keep encountering has convinced me to forget about buying a cnc.
Hi Terry. This actually is the opposite of what I hoped to hear. Don't get me wrong, there are set backs. But the payoff is much more than that. It's well worth getting into cnc. The Shapeoko is a great machine.
@@AndyBirdBuilds the older I get the less tolerance I have for things that piss me off. I can see spending 3K, reach my frustration level and never touching it again.
Placing tape strips on perimeter (rather than inset from edges) will help prevent workpiece rocking during milling operations.
Makes sense, thank you
Thanks for sharing the Vetric tips!
Yet another inspiring video. Keep up the great work Andy. Appreciate you.
I appreciate that! Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent video. I had this exact problem last week. Your solution is awesome
Great to hear!
For the finishing toolpath pushing it out, if you're using vcarve I also had the same problem. What I did is offet the main vector inward by a few mm and then re-ran the toolpath. I would then zoom in and make sure that the generated toolpaths lined up with the outtermost line and that would allow the two toolpaths to match up when they ran and stopped it from pushing it out.
Sounds a little complicated, but it works lol. If you want I can send a screen recording of doing it later if that'd help!
Your solution works but is not needed. This comment explains it well.
1) Setup the roughing toolpath with ''x' passes with large stepover (e.g. 1mm on a 25.7mm bit) and only to cut to the chosen depth minus 0.25mm. E.g. an 18mm depth only goes to 17.75mm.
2) DUPLICATE the roughing toolpath, change the depth to the full distance (e.g. 18mm), the step over to 2mm and the passes to ONE (don't forget to click the set button!)
@@AndyBirdBuilds I'll have to give that a try!
Have you tried blue painters tape and CA glue? But cover the whole area of the stock with tape.. cover the bed accordingly. CA glue on stock side tape, activator on bed side tape. Worked for me..
As far as your broken bits.. think in ways of less is more..
By that I mean,
less stickout of the shank- I try to have 3mm max (1/8), just enough to acount for that kinda cone transition from shank to bit (bowl bit). Same goes for the end mill. *Caution - watch for set depth, so the collet NUT does not hit your stock!* You will notice a lot less tool deflection.
Second, which I know might sound expencive (but with some thought ahead..) use bits that have (just) 3-6mm (1/8-1/4) longer flutes than your work piece. Again, will help a lot with tool deflecting less, so less vibrations, stress..
Have a blessed day 🍀
Thanks for sharing. I haven't. But I've heard of people having success with it. I wouldn't mind doing it for one piece but I'm not sure how practical it is for batch work
I've not had much luck with the Bits & Bits compression bits. They flat out told me their S&F's are incorrect and need to be re-done. I've since switched over to SkyOne CNC bits which are cheaper and better IME. As for the tray bit, you can set a last depth pass in the toolpath, which makes it a roughing/finishing pass. You cannot change the stepover however. To do that you would need to create a duplicate toolpath with just the full DOC as a single pass to final spec. I use a 3/4" tray bit to do my juice grooves, running 9k RPM, 160IPM, 0.15" DOC. :)
Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I have not had any trouble with Bits and Bits compression bit. I've been using them for about a year now.
Rather than screws or double sided tape have you considered composite nails? Avid has a composite nail gun they recommend which I have and really like.
I have. I talked about it a few videos ago. It does not like .75" hardwood
I use vectric for exactly this. Here's how I do the roughing / finishing toolpaths (sorry it's metric)!
1) Setup the roughing toolpath with ''x' passes with large stepover (e.g. 11mm on a 25.7mm bit) and only to cut to the chosen depth minus 0.25mm. E.g. an 18mm depth only goes to 17.75mm.
2) DUPLICATE the roughing toolpath, change the depth to the full distance (e.g. 18mm), the step over to 2mm and the passes to ONE (don't forget to click the set button!)
It's fast to setup and never fails.
ALso, @09:27 it looks like you have lots of "witness" marks where the tool plunges. In the profile toolpath choose the "Leads" tab and add something like Circular Lead, Radius 10mm / 0.5", Lead Length 10mm / 0.5", Do Lead Out : True, Overcut distance 10mm / 0.5". Do this on ALL passes, roughing and final cut out ands it makes a BIG difference.
Thank you for sharing this. It makes complete sense!
Interesting tip on the Leads - I'm going to dig into this. I get a lot of these "witness" marks and was trying to use Ramping to solve them, but not much luck.
@@smeggy22 I typically set my rough cut with the allowance offset set to 0.25mm (sorry, convert to inches if needed) so that the main cuts are not even touching the final edges. I run like this all the way down to 1.5mm from the bottom, in as many passes as needed, then stop. I do "not" check the "Do Separate Last Pass" box, preferring instead to program a separate last pass myself.
The final last pass is a "duplicate" of the rough cut, but this time going all the way to the bottom in a "single pass" (important) with no material offset (important). Doing this in a single pass cuts through the 0.25mm left by the rough cuts and (combined with the lead in & lead out) provides a nice clean surface all the way around. If you don't do this you can end up with lots of horizontal lines left by the bit cutting at multiple depths. Removing 0.25mm over the entire height is usually not a problem, and saves sooooo much sanding and clean up 😊 Good luck with your testing and let us know how it goes 👍
I've not used Vectric much, but with Carbide Create you can easily add a finishing tool path to the same Gcode. You can greatly reduce the DoC as you're just trying to knock down the machine marks, reduce step over, and increase your speeds, 300IPM+ on my Onefinity.
I've used Carbide Create a lot myself. Its really easy to do in Vectric once you know how to do it. They setup is just slightly different between the two programs
Trays look great! How much did you sell them for at the market?
Great video Andy. What flap disc do you use in your drill press? Thanks, Gary
Thanks - amzn.to/3UULbPa
Nice info. What happened to your 1/4" shank bits? Was it the shank failed/sheared off? I've recently started using a VFD spindle, completely different animal to 300w or trim router. Wondering if shanks are mild steel on wide bowl bits and not capable of the speed/torque & impact cutting into sidewalls...but don't get same problems with endmills.
I've been running these bowl and tray bits for a couple years with no issues. The failures were a mixture of too aggressive feeds and slamming into tight corners in the pockets.
would making french cleats work to hold down the wood for the trays? you'd have to trim the board first which might take some time.
Hmm. I'm not sure
Andy can you go more in detail on you path issue you talked about? I have been doing it that way too
There's some great comments on this video that go into the details
In what state are you
You will get no movement if you do a full-depth plunge with a 30-degree ramp for the cutout path with a compression bit.
Interesting. I'll give it a try next time
Your video's are starting to sound like a commercial.
Thanks for the feedback.