Assemble cheapest "original" Mann Hummel Provent200 oil catch can
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- Опубликовано: 4 июн 2020
- How to save money and get almost the best possible quality for a fraction of the price.
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On average (here in the UK) a Mann Hummel Provent 200 oil catch can costs ~£165 (amazon UK: amzn.to/3KedlAj or £130 from ebay: ebay.us/hYBJRe). If one buys a cheap oil catch can that imitates the provent200 (cheapest in amazon ~£48 (amazon UK): amzn.to/2qeZYuR or £31 ebay: ebay.us/AQpDgh and the original filter (from amazon amzn.to/3copf8v or £41 from ebay: ebay.us/Fr8hyD), one can assemble these together and get one nearly original oil catch that is half the price. Even with the £43 filter and £31 cheap oil catch can, the whole thing is ~£70, still ~50% cheaper than the original Mann Hummel Provent 200.
The oil catch can in the video was Maso (amazon UK) amzn.to/2qeZYuR or ebay: ebay.us/AQpDgh, but that seems a but more expensive now. Of course a silicone or pvc hose (something say 7mm hose) is also needed.
#bargain #CarMods #OilCatchCan
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Superb, thank you for sharing.
Thx epic tip!
Hi, great video and info', did you use 22mm copper tubing to reinforce the inlet and outlet 25mm plastic hose connectors? Some people mention their copy looks flimsy, other than the main connections, does your copy look substantial enough to cope with high under bonnet temperatures?
Yes, absolutely correct. I used the 22mm copper tubing to reinforce the plastic hose connectors. Altogether it is sturdy enough to withstand the temperature under the bonnet, but the connectors are a bit on the soft side. When I tightened the hose connectors a few times, they distorted a bit, hence the copper reinforcement.
Overall the plastic is not as sturdy as the original, but it is good enough for the price. I had it for ~2 years without a problem.
@@moremolecules Thank you that's exactly what I needed to know 👍.
I want to use mine on a modern DI petrol turbo engine (same as Vale C. but Ford) and although Mann state it's only resistant to "diesel fuel, engine oil, lube oil, cleaning agents" I was going to give it a go as they are so cheap and TBH it's the only decently sized unit/connections that I would be happy using, plus it's lightweight. The plastic might be slightly different to the Mann so not sure if that is actually better or not for use on a petrol engine. I can swop out the rubber orings but if the housing degrades then I'll have to find something else.
Any thoughts on its compatibility with petrol?
@@stuartwalker2078 Good question, but I doubt anyone knows, it is a cheap knock off, no description of any sort. For the price you could try it to see if it is alright. Seals might perish probably, but they could be replaced by petrol-resistant ones. The problem is the bottom valve, but the rubber seems quite sturdy to be honest and I have not seen any distortions in it.
Hi, really interested to know how much oil/soot this catch can has collected since the installation or do you use the return outlet to the oil sump. Thinking of use this method for my Bmw e90 m57 330d . I was worried about excess crank case pressure blowing gaskets and seals, but your other video reassured me that's not the case with this particular catch can.
Thanks in advance.
Hi liam, I have had it for awhile, probably ~1 year or so. It has collected ~500ml of fluid. I say fluid, as it is mainly watery-based liquid. There has been 60-80ml of oil as well. What is collected really depends on the weather. In winter when there is a lot of humidity it collects a lot of water and I have to empty it every 3 days or so. In summer, it is mainly oil and a lot less water.
I do not return it to the sump and collect it in a hose that runs from the bottom. I was also worried a lot about the crankcase pressure and blowing seals/gaskets, but the difference is negligible. I now have a second oil catch can and will eventually test the efficiency of the original vs. the cheap one. If I were you I would buy a new oil filler cap, drill a hole inside and hook it up to an Arduino. You can then measure the crankcase pressure and see how much it changes with the oil catch can. I have a few videos on that topic and how I did it (one is here: ruclips.net/video/h4TQ-XVWU30/видео.html)
Hi
I am about to install Chinese Procent 300 in my 3.0 diesel. What makes me concerned in that one I bought there is like double top cover - first cap is like flat with spring pressure valve which goes over filter, and then over it there is another screw on lid (like one vid), but without any holes! And after screw it on there is a seal blocking the way for pressure released from valve under it, doesn't make sense for me. Generally to prolong the live of piston rings there should be a bit of vacuum in the crankshaft case. Now I'm really worried if that cheap catch can won't create an OVER PRESSURE or level the desired vacuum.
Hi thank you for this. What are the advantages and disadvantages of removing the preassure bottom valve? I have the clone provent i also have same problem valve is look like close.
No disadvantage in removing it. The problem is you would need to find something that fits in there quite tight. Otherwise keeping it in there is a bit of restriction and might increase the crankcase pressure a bit, but ptobably not too much. This is a valve to regulate the pressure if the bottom is connected directly to the sump, so oil from the catch can goes back into the sump. If one is collecting the oil and disposing it then there is no need for this valve.
@@moremolecules Thank you for the quick reply. I notice that the edge of the rubber valve is not hard that can restrict the airflow. Just wondering what will happen if crackcase will have more preassure than normal. Will it blow the engine or affect engine performance? I have nissan np300. It's really hard to find a cover that can fit. How did you find yours?
Do you remember where that clear plastic cap came from to remove the bottom valve on the Provent? I tried a pringles cap but it is to big
Thanks
@@moremolecules What about the differences in valves between original and cheap catch can? Original Provent is designed to let go pressure at some point (50mBar?), to protect engine in case the device gets blocked. How about the cheap version, are the relief valves similiar of quality and design?
@@Siatkowkarzadzi Yeah, good question. The original valve is designed to open at ~50mbar, who knows how the cheap oil catch cans do. It is the same relief valve, but I do not know at what mbars it opens. Nevertheless, I would not rely on that valve to open at 50mbar, even in the original.
Awesome
hi , i have got peugeot partner 1.6 hdi adventure pack , my car same as your car . I watched your video that "gearbox oil change " and i have question for you about with that , Are there coming gearbox voice from gearbox after changed gearbox oil ?
Hi Kadirhan, I am sorry but I cannot quite understand what you are asking. If you are asking if there will be any noises coming from the gearbox after oil change? No, there should not be any unusual noises, as long as everything is alright, for example oil was put in with the appropriate thickness. My gearbox is the same after the oil change, nothing different.
@@moremolecules there are many mistakes in my write , so it is normal that you couldn't understand exactly the my write :) . after all , you understood what i am asked you and you replied , thanks . there is another ask , how much your car's highest fuel consumption and min fuel consumption ? i hope you understand this ask :)
@@kadirhanatmaca No worries, I understood. I keep a fairly detailed log about the car's consumption. I mostly do from full tank to empty tank and reset the meter to 0, so I know exactly how many miles for whatever I fill at the petrol station. My minimum ever was ~4.7 L/100km and max ~7.7 L/100km (in winter). My average since 2012 is ~5.7 L/100km.
Hello, I have a Volkswagen with a 1.9 TDI engine, and I wanted to know how the fake mann hummel behaves with the original filter, and if in my case it is recommended to remove the bottom piece and cover with plastic like yours, thank you.
I cannot quite say if the "fake" behaves exactly in the same way, probably. I removed it as I thought it adds a little bit of a restriction and the purpose as a valve for putting back the oil in the sump is not done in my case.
Hi, awesome videos. How you measured the blowby pressure?
Thank you. I had several ways of measuring the crankcase pressure, one was with Bosch DPF sensor and arduino (ruclips.net/video/h4TQ-XVWU30/видео.html) or the old-school water U-bend manometer kind of thing (ruclips.net/video/FZYWcqkMN-I/видео.html). Both show the same thing of course.
With the arduino was much better as I can record it along a drive.
Hi, thanks for your reply. Which size did you buy - 10mm to 1/8" ?
Also that method with the arduino looks more comprehensive, but also more involved with all those commands to the yoke. Any recommendations on model arduino to go for? Thanks in advance
@@djotenjdm7213 Not too sure which size you are asking about. I think I went for a elegoo uno, not quite an arduino but does the same job. I bought it for other purposes, but it worked alright for the pressure. Yeah, it is pretty basic, not quite an arduino, but it was cheaper at the time. Probably should have gone with an arduino. Works alright, not too sure if I can recommend it, although it did the job
Sorry my bad, was asking for the size of the 90 degree brass elbows you screw in to the cap. Saw you drilled 10mm so you probably have 10mm to 1/8" one?
@@djotenjdm7213 Might have been, cannot quite remember now, but I think it was 10mm to 10mm 90 degree elbow and I used probably 9mm drill and filed the hole to shape, like a die sort of thing, but without the die, haha. The elbow screwed on pretty tight anyway.
Habrá algún problema en quitar la válvula inferior de presión que trae abajo el colector? Pienso recolectar el aceite y no devolverlo al sumidero y ahí donde va la válvula le pondré solo una tapa que mandaré a fabricar a medida. También he estado viendo que el filtro de papel que viene adentro en su interior trae un tipo de resorte que al presionar desde el interior del filtro se abre hacia afuera como para dejar caer el aceite tal vez y me preguntaba no será que estos dos mecanismos (válvula inferior y válvula que se encuentran adentro del filtro de papel) trabajen juntos?
Tal vez la válvula inferior cuando quiere mandar el aceite por la manguera recolectora se cierra y esta presión hace que se habrá la válvula interior del filtro de papel?
Yes, you can remove the bottom valve completely as long as you secure the opening. See how I did it myself: ruclips.net/video/QdxyAHP1DVM/видео.html. The valve is to equalise the pressure of you are returning the oil to the sump. Not too sure what you mean by valve in the filter element. There is no valve on my paper element.
@@moremoleculescuando dice igualar la presión de retorno se refiere que esta valvula inferior empuja el aceite hacia el carter? Mi filtro no es como el que usted tiene ya que en la tapa no trae ese resorte para liberar presión si no que lo trae en el interior del filtro de papel, le dejo este video y vaya al minuto 10:00 y entenderá a lo que me refiero ruclips.net/video/gr5SoSDrRTQ/видео.html
Will the provent 200 oil catch can do the same on petrol cars
Yes it is the same process, whether on diesel or petrol. It can be fitted on both.
Hello moremolecules, do you have an update on how this all worked out? Awesome channel btw
I have not got a recent update, but it worked quite well.
@@moremolecules Thank you for the reply.
Hi where did you find the metal filter?
Thank you
It came with the Chinese cheap copy of the Mann Hummel 200 catch can. These cheap copies have metal filter instead of the paper ones from the original.
@@moremolecules thank you very much
Hi, thank you for your videos. Interested in the Provent 200. I want install it on a 1.6 THP motor (benzine, Peugeot) that is direct ejection and afflicted by carbon buildup on the intake valves. Just to summarize your experience with this oil catcher, did you noticed differences between the China metal mesh and the original Mann filter (after the filter was saturated with oil)? I see some white glue/paint on the lid, did you modify something on the valve? Are you still without the valve on the outlet conduct? Any other feedback will be appreciate.
I just subscribed to your channel ;)!
Hi Vale, many thanks for subscribing, appreciate it! These are very good questions. I have not yet run the paper filter of the Provent 200 for long, so would not be able to comment much. Once I run for a few months I will be able to tell if there is a diference in the oily paper one vs. the metal filter mesh.
Yes, the white thing was just a mistake. There was not much space in the engine where to put the oil catch can and the top of the filter was rubbing on the bonnet. So, I shaved the fins on the top, but it turns out they were hollow, so I had to put some sealant on there, so there are no holes.
Yes, I am still without the side vent on the Chinese Provent 200, but with one on the original one. I would remove it if I can find a good cap that woud fit in there, I have not yet found one. The diameters between the cheap one and the original are slightly different
@@moremolecules Thank you for reply soo fast. Do you mean that you are still using the metal mesh filter? How it is working? I just saw that now also the Chinese cotton version is available and the feedbacks are positive. 7-8 Euro vs 36 Euro of the original one (best price I could find on Dutch websites). Plus shipping costs that are a lot cheaper or free from China!
@@valex76x I had to remove my oil catch can altogether as I had to get the car to the annual motor vehicle testing here (MOT). They view this as modification and my car would have failed, although it reduces emissions. So, I have not used it that much since I removed it as I had to do other things and have not had much time to test it or drive the car with the oil catch can, covid, etc.
I do not really have a view on the difference between the cotton and metal mesh with respect to better filtering or crankcase pressure. Unfortunately, I have not had the time. It is a one-man operation here and a day job to attend to :-) I will do some tests and post them later one when I get the chance.
@@moremolecules Thank you again for sharing.
Why are u using this provent on a petrol when it’s made for diesel only cuz the seal or o rings will deteriorate ?
so does it actually work or its just better to get the original one ?
Good question. It works, but whether it works better than the original is very difficult to answer. I will be probably doing some tests on the efficiency later on. Currently, no one knows if it works better.
Hi mate, do you know how many miles we should take to replace the filter? I have heard 40000km but mine is sought at around 3000km. I blown inside and it seems a bit resistent to air passage which was not before. I thought this filters would go for a long time but it seems is not quite like this. The oil is suppose to stay on the filter and not drip of for what I understand is this correct to you also? Thanks again for your videos.
Updated: Also maybe gently cleaning the filter with a piece of paper might help. I am not sure. Maybe there is also something that can be spray to clean it for it to go longer. My guess is that from the moment it starts to be completly sought the oil will some how turn in to gue and stop oil passage.
Hi Rafael, I think it is 40k km, but I would replace it earlier, as with time and driving of course, it gets blocked more and more. This will eventually lead to more restriction and a slight increase in crankcase pressure, as gasses cannot pass that easy any more.
The oil is not supposed to stay on the filter but to drip at the bottom. Basically, smaller droplets of oil gather on the fillaments of the filter and when more smaller droplets come they condense in bigger drops and eventually drip at the bottom where one can put it back in the sump or collect with a hose.
Not too sure if the paper filter can be cleaned. One could soak it in something that dissolves the oil, but this is likely to modify the structure of the little fillaments and reduce efficacy. Well, nobody has tested efficacy of oil catch cans, brand new, old, metal mesh, etc.
@@moremolecules I think the issue is that if one does not drive for one week or so in cold weather, I guess this ruins the filter. Just a guess thought. Maybe is good to turn the car if stop long and just give it a bit of gas so it the oil doesn't block the filter. Just a thought though, not sure if this makes the trick or makes any sense. Well any way cheers! And great job once more!
@@RafaelCampos91 Many thanks indeed for the good words and encouragement, really appreciated. Yes, during this covid that is going on now, I do turn the car and go around for ~30in drive to get things moving around. Otherwise, more problems would come about. I have seen people do turn on the car for a few min, but I never really liked that. The engine never reaches operating temperature and cannot evaporate the water in the oil, so it will go in the oil catch can. Probably it is easier if one just opens the oil catch can, shakes it a bit, so oil drops (not too vigorously) and puts it back together. Also wipe a bit of the sludge around the inner walls of the catch can. I think that might be better than starting for a few mins. Might be wrong though 🙂
@@moremolecules I did some research around and there were people advising dipping the filter in fuel to clean it. I guess this is not the best. I thought of acetone but still maybe not perfect. I think I will give a shoot with a degreeser like purple power. This filter is used I think originally on Volvo penta d4 and they advise swapping every year or every 180 hours of operation. Anyhow let's see how it goes with the degreeser.
@@RafaelCampos91 Yes, some sort of degreaser might work, but it is unclear how this impacts the paper strains inside the filter. I would say no to acetone, it would degrade the plastic of the filter. Probably the least damaging is to have a bucket with dishwashing liquid and dip the filter multiple times. This should clean the oil and other bits and pieces and then dry it out.
Cada cuanto kilómetros cambias el filtro?
The paper one at ~20-40,000km.
@@moremolecules and the metal one?
@@DiF44 Metal is OK without replacing at all. Maybe a clean now and then.
Witam dlaczego zaślepiłeś ten zawór górny, i usunołeś Dolny?
Dobre pytanie, dolny jest teoretycznie niepotrzebny jeżeli nie ma odprowadzenia do miski. Ale zaślepiać górny to duże ryzyko. W przypadku zapchania się puszki olej wywali bagnetem, a ciśnienie w skrzyni korbowej będzie rypać po pierścieniach tłokowych i uszczelnieniach
Hi I've got another question for u pls?
Hi Hasan, sure, no worries.
@@moremolecules hi I recently bought a Peugeot 308 2012 1.6hdi car drove ok but once on motorway driving around an hour it loses power and goes into limp mode. I parked it up on the hard shoulder turned it off and then on again which was good for another half an hour then happened again. "Engine fault needs repair" on dashboard. Pls help many thanks and love your vids. Keep it up! The 😉
@@hasanpatel5609 Unfortunately I cannot quite help with this undetermined error. Do you have any other indications, temperature sensors, etc. I would say, plug it in one of those diagnostic tools and see what comes back. Best to use PSA diagbox or PP2000, but cheaper ones will give you a pointer.
@@moremolecules ok thanks pal. Where abouts are you in the uk?
@@hasanpatel5609 sorry, but I really value my privacy to answer that question, hope that is alright.
nice, but this material is ,probably, not oil resistant
The hose I used was oil resistant. It is used to pump oil from the oil dipstick, but I get the point. I should have pointed that this needs to be oil resistant.
bad idea man
Do you care to expand on why it is a bad idea?
Dont buy a catch can there not worth it in fact they can do damage
Can you elaborate on why they can do damage. I agree that there might be damage if the catch can is not matched to the size the engine in terms of crankcase pressure, but otherwise they are pretty useful.
It's what you have just said , and who can really tell us for sure what doesn't cause back pressure ? The manufacturer? No , if the manufacturer knew, it would already be on the car and done Right as it would be a great asset to sale's on any vehicle . Any way 2 people I know had trouble with them and had them removed
@@paulgilraine3127 Yes, I completely agree that some will cause back pressure, but if the catch can is sized accordingly and the cheap ones are avoided, then it is beneficial. Most sports teams use them, although a bit different than normal cars.
@@moremolecules race cars get a full service after every race and probably the want purest fuel possible getting burnt in the cylinders so there's no doubt to me that catch cans do catch oil and water vapour and reduce oil build up on manifolds but on the likes of my old diesel Volvo which is well looked after but not like a race car , I don't think I would chance causing other problems the real issue is the egr sending soot back into an oily manifold , all I can do lawfully is clean it out once a year 👍
@@paulgilraine3127 Yes, I agree, our cars are not race cars. If an oil catch can is suitable to the engine size, then it should mainly be beneficial.