The main engine mount is the center mount you chose not to replace. IT FAILS FIRST. It carries the weight of the engine 24/7/365. When it fails, the torque strut mounts (upper and lower) fail next. They are not designed to carry the weight of the engine, only to react the torque of the engine as the powertrain operates. By only replacing the torque struts, they will fail again in a shorter period of time. Thanks for the high quality video of the work that you did do.
I appreciate that you show very clearly the sockets and special tools needed on the paper. Makes a great screen grab for when you go to the store haha. Keep up the good work.
Plastic cover comes off pretty easy, why cut it? Besides, having it totally out of the way makes the job easier. For the bottom bracket, reinstall the front bolt first, then utilize a pry bar between engine and back of mount for alignment to get the back bolt into place. The middle mount is the big bugga boo.
K... not exactly as described. You did NOT change the motor mount; you changed the torque struts and trans mount. The Motor mount you left untouched. This is the one in the middle of the timing cover, and is the one that causes the most vibration when it fails. It also causes the torque struts to fail prematurely.
We could not remove the top engine mount as we weren't comfortable moving the A/C lines so much. Luckily, the mount was completely broken and it eventually came out in two pieces. We then removed the needed bracket from the broken part. We couldn't put the mount back together or we'd have the same problem with the A/C lines putting it back in. So we placed the mount (with bolt) and bracket into location separately. We were then able to tighten the bolt with a slender ratcheting wrench (Gearwrench) through the small space between the body and the A/C line. Having flex-head ratcheting wrenches (one ones with no angle to the handle) would have been ideal, but the regular ones with an angled handle still worked for us.
Robert - I did the same. AC lines did not give enough room, did exactly as you did, with the same gear wrench. Bottom and tranny were easy. Now to tackle that middle mount.
The lower plastic cover is held in by two small bolts and 2 or 3 phillips head screws. Just sayin. OH.. and you missed one. There's a middle mount you didn't do.
He addressed the middle mount at the beginning and said “if replacing” consider doing the timing belt and water pump simultaneously, which is good advice to save on labor $
I believe that you measure from center of this tiny hole in the bracket that is just past the rear mounting bolt, to the center of the cap of the forward mounting bracket 119mm. You need to have the lower strut loosened a bit and jack the motor to reach this measurement. With the jack still in place, tighten everything up. This procedure preload the strut brackets and reduces the vibration quite a bit. I have done this 2 times in the past and it works well
@@keiththrelkeld5890 The Tiny hole is the bracket that holds the fuel line (remove it if necessary) and the other point is the rear bolt head of the front mounting bracket. Center to Center 119mm or 4-11/16"
Yeah middle mount looks ok let's just do the top and lower and she should be good to go... anyone who has had to do the central mount on these things knows why he didn't wanna fuck with it haha😜
Does anyone know how I can find out everything that goes to the shift on a 2008 Chrysler pt cruiser I just replaced the cable I'm having no luck finding the inf or find a machanic that knows wtf they are doing so frustrated I'm about to just torche the dam car
Did everything work before? You have to walk back and double check ALL connections. I have been there done that with forgetting or missing a connection somewhere.
Ok so bought my parts at Rockauto.com OMG it costed only about $40 for all 3, the markups are outrageous if you buy at a store or have the mechanic get them! Anyways I was told it would be $225 to install them. After watching this video I can do it myself for free!
![Summer Walker - Heart Of A Woman [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SFddctbZzw8/mqdefault.jpg)
The main engine mount is the center mount you chose not to replace. IT FAILS FIRST. It carries the weight of the engine 24/7/365. When it fails, the torque strut mounts (upper and lower) fail next. They are not designed to carry the weight of the engine, only to react the torque of the engine as the powertrain operates. By only replacing the torque struts, they will fail again in a shorter period of time. Thanks for the high quality video of the work that you did do.
Very good filming. Easy to see, easy to understand. Thank you.
I appreciate that you show very clearly the sockets and special tools needed on the paper. Makes a great screen grab for when you go to the store haha. Keep up the good work.
Plastic cover comes off pretty easy, why cut it? Besides, having it totally out of the way makes the job easier. For the bottom bracket, reinstall the front bolt first, then utilize a pry bar between engine and back of mount for alignment to get the back bolt into place. The middle mount is the big bugga boo.
K... not exactly as described. You did NOT change the motor mount; you changed the torque struts and trans mount. The Motor mount you left untouched. This is the one in the middle of the timing cover, and is the one that causes the most vibration when it fails. It also causes the torque struts to fail prematurely.
We could not remove the top engine mount as we weren't comfortable moving the A/C lines so much. Luckily, the mount was completely broken and it eventually came out in two pieces. We then removed the needed bracket from the broken part. We couldn't put the mount back together or we'd have the same problem with the A/C lines putting it back in. So we placed the mount (with bolt) and bracket into location separately. We were then able to tighten the bolt with a slender ratcheting wrench (Gearwrench) through the small space between the body and the A/C line. Having flex-head ratcheting wrenches (one ones with no angle to the handle) would have been ideal, but the regular ones with an angled handle still worked for us.
The top mount can be removed and replaced if you remove headlight and pass through the headlight hole, no need to remove timing cover to make room.
Robert - I did the same. AC lines did not give enough room, did exactly as you did, with the same gear wrench. Bottom and tranny were easy. Now to tackle that middle mount.
But why do you cut the plastic protection at 4'23" ?
Good video, but why would you butcher the plastic protective cover for no reason? It's super easy to remove
The lower plastic cover is held in by two small bolts and 2 or 3 phillips head screws. Just sayin. OH.. and you missed one. There's a middle mount you didn't do.
He addressed the middle mount at the beginning and said “if replacing” consider doing the timing belt and water pump simultaneously, which is good advice to save on labor $
What about the middle motor mount? You did the 2 torque mounts and the trans mount but not the actual motor mount.
it's a huge pain in the butt)
Thanks for this video.
You lost me at cutting the plastic. Not to mention the 20 minutes it took to get the top out.
There is a measurement that goes with that top torque strut mount that you don't seem to follow. I believe it is 119 mm
Can you give some more details? I remember that part just having mounting holes without any adjustment.
I believe that you measure from center of this tiny hole in the bracket that is just past the rear mounting bolt, to the center of the cap of the forward mounting bracket 119mm. You need to have the lower strut loosened a bit and jack the motor to reach this measurement. With the jack still in place, tighten everything up. This procedure preload the strut brackets and reduces the vibration quite a bit. I have done this 2 times in the past and it works well
@@keiththrelkeld5890 The Tiny hole is the bracket that holds the fuel line (remove it if necessary) and the other point is the rear bolt head of the front mounting bracket. Center to Center 119mm or 4-11/16"
thank you God bless You
I'm a fan of the banjo but you ruined the video by adding the music. Other than that great video.
And camera position is everything
Yeah middle mount looks ok let's just do the top and lower and she should be good to go... anyone who has had to do the central mount on these things knows why he didn't wanna fuck with it haha😜
Does anyone know how I can find out everything that goes to the shift on a 2008 Chrysler pt cruiser I just replaced the cable I'm having no luck finding the inf or find a machanic that knows wtf they are doing so frustrated I'm about to just torche the dam car
Could be the safety neutral switch it's on top of the transmission and usually connected to the shift linkage
Replaced Tranny Motor Mount on 2002 PT Crsier, now car will not start but all light come on?
Did everything work before? You have to walk back and double check ALL connections. I have been there done that with forgetting or missing a connection somewhere.
Has anyone ever told you that you sound like Billy Bob Thornton?
How to change oil in a mechanical gearbox chrysler pt 2,2 crd 2004g
Gracias
Ok so bought my parts at Rockauto.com OMG it costed only about $40 for all 3, the markups are outrageous if you buy at a store or have the mechanic get them! Anyways I was told it would be $225 to install them. After watching this video I can do it myself for free!
I stopped watching once I saw him cut the cover.
crack!
.....5:55 and 6:06.....?????
Exactly right! What the heck? Time warp? LOL!
Never cute that rain guard just un do the clips the short cuts on this video suck