SHINY! Graphite vs. Metallic Finishes - Wonder Woman's Sword of Athena
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2024
- Bill and his buddy Eric of Coregeek Creations get down to painting some of Eric's gorgeous Sword of Athena casts using some different techniques.
UPDATE: Eric put out a video showing different clear coat finishes: • The Best Clear Coat Se...
Coregeek Creations
www.coregeek.net
/ coregeek
Eric's Follow Up Graphite Powder Test Video: • Shiny! Chrome Graphite...
Wonder Woman Sword - Contact Coregeek if interested
www.etsy.com/l...
Graphite Powder 99.5%
Natural Flake, 5 Micron
CAS# 7782-42-5
ChemicalStore.com
C1 Models C1 Metalizer
Metalizing Buffing Powder
www.c1-models.c...
Powdered Graphite Lubricant - Amazon
amzn.to/2QVNcx4
Graphite Stick - Amazon
amzn.to/2E6NHyn
Airbrush - Amazon
amzn.to/2afUbYH
Alclad II Lacquer - Amazon
Steel - amzn.to/2iJo8Xt
Polished Brass - amzn.to/2LkoeST
Aqua Gloss Clear - amzn.to/2hzHOMS
Molotow Liquid Chrome - Amazon
amzn.to/2Ei8hMh
Model Master Sealer for Metalizer - Amazon
amzn.to/2DUpmeo
Pledge Floor Care Finish - Amazon
amzn.to/2mNaqow
Tamiya Paints - Amazon
amzn.to/2d7igbc
Airbrush Spray Gun Cleaning Wash
amzn.to/2LhPJwm
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hey guys! great video. I'm the local prop tart "graphite nut". and i've found a few things 1. urethane clear coat helps IMMENSELY in getting that super smooth base for the powder. 2. if you spray some alclad chrome, or spaz stix chrome on FIRST, and THEN buff the powder on, it yields a much brighter chrome finish, and much less "black chrome" 3. the graphite is so durable because each granule of powder is extremely "sharp", meaning that as you buff it, it forces itself into your paint like a million tiny thumbtacks, which is why it doesn't need a clear coat. the buffing is flattening the particles down, which is what gives you the shine. clear coats need to follow the rules of normal chrome paints. it doesn't like solvents, but it is very durable to physical abuse. Cheers friends!
Great info!
Fantastic tips all around. Thanks so much for sharing! =D
Question: I'm trying to find good ways to enhance the shine on my homemade LARP weaponry. The difficulty with this is that it needs to be able to withstand the abuse such a weapon takes. Do you think graphite would flex with the material, or will it lose it's shine really quickly? It would be applied to either a coat of clear Plastidip or Isoflex, both quite glossy.
@@MartijnCalkhoven the graphite sould be fine as long as the coat under it is fine and again if it dose finally show wear you can just add more and buff again but based on what i seen grphite will be fine as long as the base is fine with the abuse with larp weapons
Martijn Calkhoven the powder isn’t a coherent coating, meaning there is no binder, so the particles are bound to the surface, but not to each other. All is to say it’s super flexible
That was so much fun thanks again for having me on!
You guys are the best! I had to pause 30 seconds in to gain composure because I didn't expect the intro to be so funny.
Beautiful casts and finishing techniques!
Great looking swords!!
Thanks for teaching graphite trick. How would you weather graphite applied part?
WAIT WAIT WAIT - I have one as well, does this mean Eric will come over and help me paint mine???
I think so Joel!! HAHA!
Yes indeed! :)
@@punishedprops is that the lubricant from Joels OpenRC video? Looks like it paints just as good as it lubricates 🤣
@@therealpanse HA! It is indeed the same container. Good eye!
For anyone who would like to know, I've used graphite powder for years, I've found the under colour makes little drifference with a full covering, but a light dusting will let the base show through but it's difficlut to get it even... The effect is a dark metalic shine like old /aged steel, the brightness/lightness/viberence is realy adjusted by how smooth and shinny the base is, this means painting is not always nessary if the the matirial you are working on is already finished.... The technique can be use on almost any matirial inculiding vinyl fabric but the graphite can transfer if it's rubbing against another surface... It does wear off over time, but can be added to easerly and can be washed off with warm soapy water if you want to start over.... Hope this Helps....
These couple Videos showing different uses, of both a Burnt and a Metalised technique ...
Burnt Bones: ruclips.net/video/vMYUFYC-5y4/видео.html
T-700 Head: ruclips.net/video/zvz68KnPtME/видео.html
Wonderful tips, thanks for sharing! =D
@@punishedpropsAll good.... Love to do a collaboration, not sure what, maybe you've got somethink you'd like cast in Metal ? Feel free to reach out if I can help.... jazcreations@optusnet.com.au
Update: Eric made a follow up video testing the graphite powder over finishes other than gloss black: ruclips.net/video/fRaOMuqxM-g/видео.html
Check out our full tools & Materials list and see more build photos at punishedprops.com/2018/12/17/metallic-finish-swords/
Try Createx 4030 additive with that basecoat paint! It's sort of a catalyst for acrylics and makes them cure into a hard shell.
I just used Molotow for the first time in a model kit. It's so amazing, but it really shows any bumps or issues with your base coat. I had to get a new gloss just to continue with the project.
@@andyfilms Ooooh thanks for the recommendation!
Andyfilms I already use it.
Hi, Punished Props, I saw the video where you and Jazza did a colab, and I was wandering if you could build one of my designs. If you are up to it than can you please give me a way to share my picture with you, I would very much appreciate that.
Great video. Definitely feeling some 'prop envy' for Eric's sword finish. A quick Molotow horror story. I painted some parts on my 3D printed BR blaster with Molotow Chrome, got them nice and shiny, and then hit them with gloss clear lacquer. Then I watched as the metal particles in in the chrome floated up into the lacquer, making a beautiful race car silver, but it sure wasn't chrome anymore. I've found that you have to let Molotow cure and out-gas for at least 48-72 hours before you coat it with anything or it will dull or crack/spiderweb... and it dissolves in lacquer thinner AND alcohol... so clear acrylic sealer is almost a must!
Chunky Metal FOREVER!
Wow that's really enlightening. Thanks for sharing. =)
The only clear coat I've had consistent success with over Molotow Liquid Chrome is Alclad Gloss Klear Kote (ALC310) airbrushed on in thin layers after the Molotow is cured. Barely perceptible effect on the finish. Even Future wasn't as good. It also helps to thin the Molotow with lacquer thinner before applying it.
Hate to be that guy but graphite powder without a respirator = black lung. I worked for a number of years in a place that had been a graphite manufacturer, probably took years off my life. The other catch is the stuff gets on EVERYTHING. 99% of the graphite in that place was sealed in but I would still come home a light shade of grey.
On the flip side it looks great.
Good job on the show.
God bless your lungs!
@@joycallender9507 Related... I have some aluminum dust, I was looking for powder and somehow ended up with dust. The stuff is so lite it will float up out the top when you open the bottle. And air motion and it will "ride the wave", incredibly cool. But some years later I learned that that is what they originally used on the Tin Woodsman for exposed skin parts. It does work incredibly well for that. But it will get in your lungs and can be very dangerous. It sent the original Tin man to the ICU because of it getting in his lungs. So if you wear a respirator when putting it on you are pretty OK because it sticks to the oils on your skin and doesn't really come off on stuff AND with that tiny bit of oil the stuff doesn't float around like when it's clean in the jar. The look is well very tin man.
That finish is GORGEOUS
Also shout-out to Britt for the great work behind the camera and editing!
Britt is the best! =D
You can also get jars/tubs of powdered graphite at many art stores relatively inexpensively!
Fantastic tip!
Your projects never cease to amaze me!
We're so glad you're having fun!
Awesome info Bill I really like the way you totally intentionally had some problems so we would know what not to do. Well done!!
HAAAA! You're... uhhh... welcome! Yeah! =D
Yeah that was totally the plan from the beginning! ;)
Nice video Bill! Couple tips:
If you want a more consistent flow to the Molotow, I did a test where I thinned it with about 30-40% lacquer thinner. It went on way smoother and yielded a more chrome like finish, but it took DAYS to dry. If you’re not in a rush, that’s a great way to get an out of the bottle Chrome that’s a little more reflective than Alclad II chrome (which I think would look better than the steel color you had tested).
If you use a softer pencil lead on a finer grit sandpaper, it will yield a much finer graphite powder that makes it easier to rub into your surface. Hope that helps!
Fantastic tips, thanks very much!
just used sanded graphite sticks on my 1st foamsmith project last week, it turned out alright, not having ALL the materials needed. Thanks for this, a lot of good tips for metallic finishes for my future projects. Will share pics with you guys soon, so you can see how well your videos help us! "I play bass for Chunky Metal!!!!"
Fantastic! =D
I love that Bill is more than willing to admit when he made mistakes and then talk through what he and we should all learn from his mistakes.
So for those like mirror pigments...in my experience working with them on nails, they loooove to go into solution. So when you seal them/top coat them they lose shine. When we use them on nails you have to use special top and base coats to get them to work properly. Even when they come in solution already instead of in the powder form, you still need very specific top and base coats or exactly what happened to you will happen. When we use the powders we use really smooth, grippy base coats like your friend did for the graphite powder (ps - you can do this with multichrome pigments too as long as you have black under it.), then rub in the powders, then use special topcoats that dry really fast before the mirror finish has time to go into solution again in the sealant/top coat. Btw the best thing for rubbing in powders isn’t cotton, it’s silicone. Well, not sure about graphite, but for mirror ones and multichromes. Idk what’s in the top coats tho, I just use them. But yeah, that’s a place to start researching the best kind of top coats if you’re interested in mirror finishes. Smooth as possible base coat that’s grippy, and a sealant that dries fast. Or look up some of the us top coats and see what kind of stuff is in them so you can look for similar materials to use. One Night Stand is the most well-known of these. And if you want to experiment, Born Pretty tells tons of colors and finishes of the rub-in powder for cheap. Mirror, multichrome, iridescent, etc.
I really like using Mehron metallic powder. I think it's to mix into body paints. It's on Amazon for like $10. But it goes a long way when you mix it into resin to make castings. Or dusting the molds, and filling with black resin. It comes in a few colors too.
Thanks for the suggestion! =D
Great to watch this video, its refreshing to see that even someone of your skill set Bill is still learning new ways to do things. I've been slowly watching through all your content since I found your channel. I cut my teeth on Adam Savages Tested and learned of your content there. Since finding this I have found my passion for the painting side and slowly the creating side invigorated. I can't wait to start my first kit project soon. When I do I will be sure to shoot you an image of it on twitter. After I finish building I'm looking forward to painting it and seeing what kind of finish I can generate!
That's absolutely fantastic!
It can't be denied, Eric stormed that one. But as for exploring experimentation, this is another great video.
I answered the most common questions asked here about the base colors in a new video: ruclips.net/video/fRaOMuqxM-g/видео.html
Thanks Eric! =)
Love starting my day/build with one of these videos playing in the background... Awesome job fellas! :-D
I have a thing (live in Sweden) that is called stove polish, and that is a waxy thing with graphite in it. So basically a rub n buff with graphite. It makes a really dark and shiny metallic look.
Just mentioning, that Liquid Chrome was regularly mentioned on BaremetalHW a channel about restoring Hotwheels and Matchbox cars, and I believe he did testing about best clear coats for that product. Alto of what he dose gets Spectra Flame colors, which require a shiny metal coat under it.
Really enjoyed this kind of collaboration video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks, so glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Bill It's me again!.
Paint tip. Using a transparent amber paint/stain over liquid Chrome makes a pretty convincing polished gold or brass. I'm not sure how the clear paints from rattle cans react to the chrome so i make a yellow varnish using Elmers clear glue and ink. A trick i picked up trying to make Faux stained glass. Food coloring should work as replacement for ink. Still in testing stage on small parts. Also Thank YOU for the paint tip on air brushing liquid chrome on large parts and the Graphite powder i have never heard of using for props. Thanks again for that and your channel. I am learning a lot from you.
Love this channel !! for creative people this is educational and fun but most of all relaxing.
That's really wonderful to hear :)
@@punishedprops Only the fact that yo take your time to read and answer the comments , make me love your channel even more Thanks Bill
Really good timing! I'm making wonder woman now.
OMG Bill, for years already similar ideas come to our heads at same time. Two weeks ago I too recieved C1 powder for my blades. Also molotow cures for like a week and best thing to clear coat on it is enamel clear like tamiya x-22.
Great! Thanks for sharing. =D
I finally made a follow up video about sealing the graphite finish. ruclips.net/video/_HfAHEd6_7Q/видео.html
Heck yeah!
As a huge fan of Destiny I'd really love to see you guys paint and weather the Ace of Spades you have hanging up in the background.
I've never used Future floor polish in an airbrush, but I wipe it on as a top coat to keep (real) brass from tarnishing after it is polished, and I love it for that.
i used to build model car kits and i almost bought some of that c1 metalizer, glad i saw this vid and how much more i can get for less than what that tiny jar costs.
Gorgeous! Now I wanna repaint my Batfleck armour!
I ended up using silver rub n buff and then buffing a nice mirror shine with the graphite powder for my Cylon armor. I ended up with a really cool gunmetal gray which is what I was aiming for.
Oh nice work!
they both look great bill! i have used the graphite technique before eon some sculptures.
um yeah, I am going to buy some graphite asap, episode bookmarked. thx as always guys!
Right? It's MAGIC.
Not a sage but as a mini painter to get rich golds, we usually have a brown undercoat in the same way for silvers we have a black one.
I wonder if the same idea applies to full scale painting
I (we in our clubs workshop) use for 4-5 years Molotow's spray paints. Primers and others. They do a very good job. The metallics contains metal pigments, and the finished props looks like real metal. The only one problem with the metallics are, they can't used with the sponge technic (only works whit the silver/chrome and sometimes with copper). I never used the other paint types from this brand, but I will give a try. We like your videos! Learning a lot. Greetings from Hungary!
The Man looks like he competed 20yrs in the service and now likes to build props in his spare time.
I know this sounds insane but I use Deco Art Duraclear gloss varnish that I rub on with a shop rag and i get a nice shiny gloss and sheen on my metal pieces , i also use this trick mixed with a small bit of colored paint to sometimes get a nice patina effect. I know it sounds crazy.
Oooh neat!
@@punishedprops I just sent you a message on IG showing the result.
Interesting technique! I'd love to see the result! Maybe post a few photos on your Insta?
Adam Savage experimented to great success while building yet another blade runner pistol, and actually got an extremely shiny chrome paint that has a specific lacquer that doesn't dull that paint! he did it on the one with "ivory" handles and its absolutely beautiful!
What if white base coat was applied on the swords before painting it? Eric's looks kind of darker than normally blades look at the end result. Would that make a difference and be shinier with white base coat?
I'm not sure! Worth experimenting with.
Chunky metal is the hardest band of the late 80s, early 90s.
You know, now that I think about it we accidentally got messy with the graphite on my sons pinewood derby car once and decided to rub it all over it because it looked cool. I’ve tried quite a few of the metalic paints but hadn’t thought of graphite. Cool video!
been using molotow paints with markers for ages and finally got myself an airbrush earlier this year
finally seeing people like Bill and Adam Savage using this chrome as well is really neat
It is super neat, for sure! I definitely need to get more practice with it to bend it to my will.
@@punishedprops
like with any new medium,
super happy to see things like these included, it didn't turn out horrible by any means,
but its always good to show that everyone can and will make mistakes
Hmm.. very nice! I'm working on some Gotham City manhole coasters printed in resin. Was going to go with Rub and Buff, but the graphite is intriguing..
Ooooh that might be really cool!
That Eric is one cool guy.
Gosh, thanks! 😊
thank you for sharing - the graphite looks really good
You're welcome!
That graphite coated blade looks absolutely fantastic!
Are there different hardnesses of graphite powder? If so then maybe a harder one (H instead of B) would make it brighter..?
I'm not sure if that would make a difference, but it's worth a shot.
I did some more testing and a white base makes for a much brighter chrome ruclips.net/video/fRaOMuqxM-g/видео.html
Toy polloi did a really good video on the liquid chrome.
Oh cool!
Bill rockin' that airbrush without the rear needle guard like a pro.
Cmon, you made all this amazing stuff, but never made a master sword?!? Thats like propgeek 101 :P! Anyways, love your content!
Got a 32 minute add for a spray on chrome called Spectra chrome comes in many colors looks awesome. And I love the sword great work 🌟
This is exactly what I was looking for. Gonna use these for my Witcher swords.
I've got some originsl weapon props I plan to make soonish, totally using graphite powder.
Splendid! Have fun! =D
Mate, on that airbrush holder.. I don't think you're meant to put any water or anything in it. It's just meant to catch all that you spray into it. After awhile it collects in there and you empty it out.
Hey Bill, you and Eric had discussed doing the graphite over grey to get a lighter color. How about going all out on a test and try it over multiple colors and sheens to see what kind of effects you can get from this technique. Thanx for the videos -
That's a great idea! I've been collecting resources and ideas for a more comprehensive "chrome finish" video. No idea when we might get around to it...
If you insist! ruclips.net/video/fRaOMuqxM-g/видео.html
Molotow sells the burner chrome in a rattle can that you can use different sized caps to get a larger coverage.
Oh cool!
If You mixed in pearlescent powder into the graphite would it have a more pearly and/or Iridescent finish?
They get along so well. Look at them, playing with each others ... sword. oO
Haha... couldn't resist. Gret video.
Now I've got to wonder if chrome effect nail powders could be applied in a similar way. They usually require a UV gel base coat to adhere. But I'd be surprised if there isn't a clear coat somewhere in existence that would produce the same effect. If anybody has tried this I'd like to know.
i did an experiment on using these nail powders before, no UV gel base coat needed.
you just need to use a tacky acrylic paint so that the chrome powder can stick on
ruclips.net/video/J34j-mjGlJg/видео.html
i gotta get some graphite powder!!!
Also check out Steel-it spray paint. It has actual stainless steel flakes in suspension and it can give a great steel look
It would be interesting to see how the graphite powder looks on the silver painted blade to see if it turns out more silver and less gunmetal while keeping that impressive shine
That would definitely be neat to test!
I tested it! ruclips.net/video/fRaOMuqxM-g/видео.html
I was curious if buffing Bill's clear coat would bring out some of the shine?
Hey bill, do you think you'd ever do a video about this graphite stuff on eva foam?
Not sure! If we do, you'll definitely see it here though!
Ive been using graphite rubs for gunmetal and other blued finishes for a couple of years. My only gripe is that you lose so much of the shine when you lay down a clear coat over it.
Great video! But the 60 fps just looks weird...
Will defiantly be picking up some graphite powder! That stuff looks sick!
How does the graphite finish hold up against the weather. Humidity, rain, etc. I love the simplicity of it all but being in a humid area I wonder how well it sticks doing a Con at say Dragoncon in Atlanta.
Direct water exposure will spot, or if exposed enough, wash it off somewhat.
I love the graphite powder but i think it would have looked better with a glossy white since graphite is a very dark grey
Depends on the look you’re going for. You are correct white does make a brighter chrome.
bill im wondering if you use the graphite get it on and buff it out an all that .ect .then used a cooper or chrome rub-an-buff would it make it a bit more realistic bc from the video it looks good but just dark so all heck .
The swords look super nice, but it doesn't quite fit my aesthetic.... I'm gonna cover my prop swords in G L I T T E R
Coregeek! damn what a cool guest, been following him for a long time on Instagram :D
Michel Bondo Hansen Thank you!
Hurray! Eric is a really fantastic human. =)
T-Short slogan: "Makers hate wet paint." Whenever I plan to paint, I always have another project to distract me while the paint dries. Great video, learned a lot. : )
Thanks so much!
So even if you're adding multiple layers of paint on top, a gloss primer/clear coat beneath the paint layers will still help give it a shiny appearence?
It can help boost the gloss a bit if you find that your base coat isn't shiny enough.
try the graphite over your silver base! the graphite looked amazing as he was buffing it on but at the end of the video from a distance it just looked shiny black, i really want to see what it would do on a lighter base
That's a great idea!
Here ya go! ruclips.net/video/fRaOMuqxM-g/видео.html
His Apple Watch belt is so cool
Thanks. I made it myself.
I'm not finding that specific graphite powder on the Chemical Store's site. What's the best budget-friendly alternative? I'm planning on doing Joan of Arc's armor, and I don't think spray paint is going to cut it.
We couldn't find a good listing on Amazon, so we included the specs in the description so that folks could hopefully find something similar somewhere else. The cheapest option is to buy a graphite stick from an art store and just grind it up with sandpaper. Works great! I didn't test it, but I bet the "lead" from a pencil would work just fine too.
Hey Punished Props! I was wondering what kind of sealant I could use on the sword to not ruin the metallic finish. Thanks ahead of time!
ruclips.net/video/_HfAHEd6_7Q/видео.html
I’d be interested to see what the graphite looks like over the high gloss from as it it (if you are just going to do the graphite finish on the sword anyway). Would it be a lighter metallic colour if it’s not over black paint? Might save you painting it black first.
Hey ! Did the "amorpher graphit" work too ? Because i've buy this on my local store and i've try and it does nothing :/
Ive try on EVA foam with flexipaint as flexible sealant, then 3 coat of high gloss black, but when i put the powder like you do on this video, nothing happened its still black.
Amorpher graphit -280 (Natural graphit)
So I have an off topic question but I really want to know what plastic pieces that seem to be made of 2 different colors is called/how you can make them. I know that sounded pretty weird but as an example look up the character kosh from the babylon 5 tv show or the goggles from Jurassic park (specifically the original ones). it could just be painted but I dont know and I cant find anything on google
I ran into similar issues with the Molotow. I feel like it's how fast it begins to set, and you only get the chrome effect when it's wet and thick. I wonder if the Tamiya paint retarder would work with it to give you more time to lay it down? I need to wait for another project where I need to cover that much surface area, so if you try it before me, please show it in a video.
Follow up, multiple coats don't help with the shine, and you run into the same issue. With my experience it took one good thick coat to get a nice shine, and trying to get it in one nice even coat to avoid dripping and pooling. It looks best right before it's about to pool seems to be the catch. I ended up doing a lot of wet sanding to get it even. You can patch it, but it's real tricky to do and every pass can result in a chance to introduce new blemishes. Also, even after it's dried for a couple days it really doesn't seem to like to be touched and you kind of need to put on a clear coat to protect it. Alclad's clear coats also seem to work with it. But multiple light coatings won't get that mirror-like finish I found. It wants to have enough to form a nice smooth surface before drying which is how you get that real mirror like shine out of it.
@@technicallyartistic I found the same results in my personal tests with Molotow.
I think if I try to paint something this big with Molotow again, I'll use a larger sprayer to get a wider spray pattern and cover it all in one good pass.
@@technicallyartistic How long do you let it dry before applying the alclads clear to the molotow. Ive always wanted to use this paint but every time I try, just looking at it funny messes it up.
@@Dsk001 A couple days minimum. You loose a good bit of shine for sure, but it still looks better than the silver paint to me, so it's a compromise I'm willing to live with in that case. The only thing I've found that doesn't really diminish it too much was a resin clear coat, but that was over the plate of a joystick. Not a model figure I was working on. Also, you use a blow torch to get the bubbles out of the resin, probably not a good idea to apply that to plastic parts.
Bill brought an actual frickin Viking Warlord into the shop to paint swords.
;)
Very informative ... Thanx!
So glad to have helped!
I wonder if it would work to rub some molybdenum disulphide grease all over and then try to wipe it off. It has a nice metallic sheen to it
woooo!!!
Looooove these comparison videos
Thanks!
Tip from the miniature wargaming group. Use that pledge and acrylic paints or inks to make a wash.
The question is. How much to buy one fully painted. From UK
Thanks for your interest, but Punished Props is not currently taking on any new commission clients. Thank you for your understanding! If you want to inquire about commissions from Eric, check out his website, www.coregeek.net/
I can sense deep seated resentment within the entirety of this video
quick question, as an avid user of the air brush, do you find gravity fed or pressure fed to to easier to use/give a better finish?
Brett McCutcheon I prefer gravity fed. Less hassle all around. IMHO.
@@coregeek aweaome. Been using an old pressure fed that my boss let me have from work and was looking at buying a new one. Noticed you guys use geavity so figured id ask
I would like to see some steel like that and then ad some graphite powder to that.
I'm writing a young adult fantasy novel and want to cosplay my characters, but I need to make the weapons/swords durable and realistic. Do you think Worbla over cardboard would work?
That could certainly work! EVA foam under Worbla is also a great option and can give you a little more control over the shapes. Grab a sharp craft knife and a $20 dremel rotary tool and you'll have yourself a basic crafting kit that opens up a whole bunch of options!
@@punishedprops Thank you. If I could, I would use high-quality supplies, but Eva foam and Worbla seem to be the best option.
Would you suggest in this order: filler primer, createx black, createx gloss, alclad2, then finish with alclad aqua top coat?
Yeah that should work. A lot of the finish depends on your application technique too, so it'll take some practice for sure.
I just watched a video where you used baby powder. Had to let you know of the possibility that it can contain small amount of asbestos. I felt I had to say something. Love your videos!
the graphite looks a lot darker. maybe its really shiny in the light? but that would be great and not too expensive for a shiny metallic finish.
what happens if you wash it with water? Does the graphite comes out anyhow? thx!
Still amazed how graphit powder can shine and stay on without coat :o
Isn't it totally bonkers?
It IS totally bonkers, @@punishedprops
Glad someone explained on FB why that works. The comparison with 1000th miniature tacks getting pushed into the coat by polishing was really good!
According to my art teacher, acrylic paint is actually plastic based paint, but it can be thinned with water