A very useful trick to know. I'm an experienced machinist and have used transfer punches, and transfer screws, for many years in my work. Transfer screws are used to transfer threaded holes to matching clearance holes. A video showing their use would be helpful to viewers not familiar with their use. Cheaper sets of punches can be re-hardened by heating the ends cherry red and quenching in oil. Any oil, such as used motor oil, will work.
Very good idea. I have a set of transfer punches and I look forward to more uses. I was thinking of putting my spring loaded automatic centre punch in the drill press as part of your technique. Thanks.
I was just looking on YT to see what the transfer punches I bought from a machinist’s estate sale are used for. I really hadn’t a clue but they looked like something I could maybe use someday.
Good info on using the transfer punches. I have a couple of sets but hadn't realized you could also use them as dimensional transfer scribes. I just figured out that you can use them as a sizing guide to set the drill depth stops on a press. (you can also use a drill bit too) Surprised you did not clamp the vise during the drilling... I would also recommend using a reamer to finish the hole.
Interesting idea. I like it and will try it. FWIW, I have a similar set of Chinese transfer punches. Have had them for years and I'm not gentle with a dead blow. Can't say they've disappointed. Apparently, having seen this video, I also need a larger set. Would be helpful to have. I like your drill vise; I collect Stanley/Yankee DP vises, and I probably don't have to tell you that in this application a vise that was firmly attached to the table would be more optimal. Instead of a center drill consider using a spot drill. For example, if your drill is ground to 118* and you use a 120* spot drill, you'll avoid the chatter. Same goes for a 135* grind and 140* and 142* spot drills. When using a screw machine length drill spotting isn't usually needed, but considering the application and the use of a center drill, spotting would be more optimal. Good luck. Enjoyed the video.
Jeff - thank you so much for your video. I am a woodworker who decided to make my own wooden hand clamps, and in the process, I just ruined eight, 1 inch brass dowels I cut. I built a wooden jig and figured out how to get the starting point dead on accurate, and the hole came out the other side exactly 180 deg. around as well.The problem was somehow the hole itself wandered down the length of the dowel (not side-to-side). It was perfectly centered side to side, but the hole is not 90 deg/perpendicular to the axis. (It's too bad I cannot post the photos I took of the set up and the very odd result.) So it looks like I need transfer punches, drill press vise, cutting oil, a center drill, and a shorter finishing bit. I was wondering how to overcome the drill bit being too long, which I suspected may be a contributor to the problem. I didn't know they even made short bits. Thanks again! -Wm
That works but you can skip the marking out process by nipping the bar stock and the transfer punch in the vice, make the centre mark remove the punch tighten the vice and drill the hole.
The best way to keep from damaging point on transfer punch is to use a brass hammer,and one that isn’t to big,steel hammer tends to bounce,your just trying to mark spot,not center punch it.
Thumbs up for the way you transferred the measurement with the transfer punch. It's a shame that much of that care seems to have been lost with the movement of the vise. Clamping the vise to the table should be safer and more accurate in the long run.
Why didn't you place the stock in the bottom of the vice and the transfer punch vertically in the vice with a very light clamping pressure, and then give the punch a tap - this should put a dimple in the middle of the stock piece ... If you have tried this (I haven't- I just though of it...) and it doesn't work please comment...
Great ides and well presented, BUT I would use a wood block or a clamp to keep the vise from getting out of control of the drill catches during the drilling process.. Working with safety in mind is job one. That aside nice job on this video
Fascinating skills but sliding your round tube into a tight square tube and marking precisely your hole on the middle of the flat surface would be faster and easier before the press drill vise.....
The vise needed to "slide all over the place" to allow the drill bit to move the work piece to the exact position. This is a common practice and a common sense no brainer type of procedure.
Jeff, I wonder if heat treating those import transfer punches would improve them. I know that has worked on some import items due to not having been properly heat treated and tempered in the first place, but some items were made of junk steel and nothing can help that. Now as you know ball oil-based cutting fluids smoke from the heat generated during the cutting process, but breathing those fumes are bad for your health. There does exist a water-based cutting fluid that is environmentally friendly that is a great replacement for them called Anchor Lube. You can learn more at anchorlube.com/ and if this is of interest to you then get a free sample to try it out at anchorlube.com/contact.html. Nice tip! Thanks for sharing. Peace!
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Great tutorial thankyou great video
A very useful trick to know. I'm an experienced machinist and have used transfer punches, and transfer screws, for many years in my work. Transfer screws are used to transfer threaded holes to matching clearance holes. A video showing their use would be helpful to viewers not familiar with their use. Cheaper sets of punches can be re-hardened by heating the ends cherry red and quenching in oil. Any oil, such as used motor oil, will work.
That was very helpful. Thank you for explaining it.
Good Stuff Jeff.
Excellent thank you
Check out V blocks if you’re trying to center drill a rod
Very good idea. I have a set of transfer punches and I look forward to more uses. I was thinking of putting my spring loaded automatic centre punch in the drill press as part of your technique. Thanks.
I like the method you show here much more than some others I have seen. Thank you!
I was just looking on YT to see what the transfer punches I bought from a machinist’s estate sale are used for. I really hadn’t a clue but they looked like something I could maybe use someday.
Thanks this helped with a school project of mine.
Very informative vid. So what would you have preferred over Tap Magic? Thanks!
Nice, logical advice, very useful for anyone that doesn't have a milling machine and needs to cross drill round stock. Thanks Much
Good info on using the transfer punches. I have a couple of sets but hadn't realized you could also use them as dimensional transfer scribes. I just figured out that you can use them as a sizing guide to set the drill depth stops on a press. (you can also use a drill bit too) Surprised you did not clamp the vise during the drilling... I would also recommend using a reamer to finish the hole.
Great video,very well explained,as are all your videos.
Interesting idea. I like it and will try it. FWIW, I have a similar set of Chinese transfer punches. Have had them for years and I'm not gentle with a dead blow. Can't say they've disappointed. Apparently, having seen this video, I also need a larger set. Would be helpful to have. I like your drill vise; I collect Stanley/Yankee DP vises, and I probably don't have to tell you that in this application a vise that was firmly attached to the table would be more optimal. Instead of a center drill consider using a spot drill. For example, if your drill is ground to 118* and you use a 120* spot drill, you'll avoid the chatter. Same goes for a 135* grind and 140* and 142* spot drills. When using a screw machine length drill spotting isn't usually needed, but considering the application and the use of a center drill, spotting would be more optimal. Good luck. Enjoyed the video.
Jeff - thank you so much for your video. I am a woodworker who decided to make my own wooden hand clamps, and in the process, I just ruined eight, 1 inch brass dowels I cut. I built a wooden jig and figured out how to get the starting point dead on accurate, and the hole came out the other side exactly 180 deg. around as well.The problem was somehow the hole itself wandered down the length of the dowel (not side-to-side). It was perfectly centered side to side, but the hole is not 90 deg/perpendicular to the axis. (It's too bad I cannot post the photos I took of the set up and the very odd result.) So it looks like I need transfer punches, drill press vise, cutting oil, a center drill, and a shorter finishing bit. I was wondering how to overcome the drill bit being too long, which I suspected may be a contributor to the problem. I didn't know they even made short bits. Thanks again! -Wm
That works but you can skip the marking out process by nipping the bar stock and the transfer punch in the vice, make the centre mark remove the punch tighten the vice and drill the hole.
Agreed and I think this way would be more accurate as it would remove several steps which are likely to create margins of error
What?
The best way to keep from damaging point on transfer punch is to use a brass hammer,and one that isn’t to big,steel hammer tends to bounce,your just trying to mark spot,not center punch it.
Thumbs up for the way you transferred the measurement with the transfer punch. It's a shame that much of that care seems to have been lost with the movement of the vise. Clamping the vise to the table should be safer and more accurate in the long run.
I need to get a set of the large transfer punches. Enco here I come!
Great tip Thank you
Why didn't you place the stock in the bottom of the vice and the transfer punch vertically in the vice with a very light clamping pressure, and then give the punch a tap - this should put a dimple in the middle of the stock piece ... If you have tried this (I haven't- I just though of it...) and it doesn't work please comment...
Great ides and well presented, BUT I would use a wood block or a clamp to keep the vise from getting out of control of the drill catches during the drilling process.. Working with safety in mind is job one. That aside nice job on this video
Fascinating skills but sliding your round tube into a tight square tube and marking precisely your hole on the middle of the flat surface would be faster and easier before the press drill vise.....
Thinking outside the box.
Awesome!
Too far north
AK 907
At 5:25, "a block of steel"..? Good heavens man, you do not own a decent square..???
You need to fix your vice to the table, it was wandering all over the place.
The vise needed to "slide all over the place" to allow the drill bit to move the work piece to the exact position. This is a common practice and a common sense no brainer type of procedure.
Jeff, I wonder if heat treating those import transfer punches would improve them. I know that has worked on some import items due to not having been properly heat treated and tempered in the first place, but some items were made of junk steel and nothing can help that. Now as you know ball oil-based cutting fluids smoke from the heat generated during the cutting process, but breathing those fumes are bad for your health. There does exist a water-based cutting fluid that is environmentally friendly that is a great replacement for them called Anchor Lube. You can learn more at anchorlube.com/ and if this is of interest to you then get a free sample to try it out at anchorlube.com/contact.html. Nice tip! Thanks for sharing.
Peace!
I used this technique on my wife, she says: Thank you!