Just a reminder for anyone that isn't aware, all my handwired boards are available for free so you can build them yourself! You can read more about the Scotto108 and find the files to build it over on my website: scottokeebs.com/blogs/keyboards/scotto108-handwired-keyboard
Before entering into my own keyboard journey, which lead to the creation of the Kaly, this videos keyboard is exactly the one I originally wished for! 100% ortholinear seems pretty good for games and day to day use! Great work!
Very nice looking builds, Joe. You inspired me to take the plunge and i'm just about to begin a 48 key split to my own design once the last few bits arrive in the delayed holiday post. It's all rather exciting. Thanks for all your great videos, and have a wonderful next year.
I'm building an ABNT 6x17 keyboard with 86 keys, your videos are extremely helpful, but unfortunately I got stuck on the compilation part for the rp2040, could you help me with that? I apologize for my English, it is not my native language.
This is amazing creation. I would love to be able to buy the keycaps. If you made it hot-swappable, even if it is just outemu hotwappable, you can have a product to sell. Your designs are just cool.
Since it is a fairly elongated keyboard, If you wire the matrix to the mcu as simple interleaved you can get away with 23 pins only. Not much of an advantage in this case anyways, though. (21+6 would become 11+12)
@@joe_scotto I had troubles getting used to ortholinear kit I assembled, must be a deep habit of using staggered keyboards for years. Then again, videos on your channel got me thinking "hm, building a keyboard of any shape and form that is comfy for me and get it handwired is something I can actually do".
I love it! I'm curious what 3d printer do you use to print your parts? settings would be cool too. i wanted to 3d print the parts the interface with keyboard switches but i'm not sure what tolerances would be acceptable
Looks like bambu lab P1S or maybe X1C. They just came out with the A1 Mini and it looks like a beast for the price. I personally have a P1P and really love it. If I were to buy one again I would either get the P1S if I had the money or the A1 for budget option (P1P kinda sits in a bit of a grey area where it may not be the best budget decision due to the release of the A1). Overall very high quality printers but I would still do my own research if I were you! As far as settings go... no clue
@@Blakediamond69420 Thanks for the suggestions. Currently, i run a highly modded micron (basically small voron 2.4). i can't guarantee you on the tolerances but it's definitely quite good at printing fast. Main problem too is that i'd have to build another one if i wanted to print a keyboard chassis in one piece. especially since bambu labs were a thing, it seems it's a better deal to just buy something rather than build another one
i tried making a simple 4x4 macropad. gateron and 1n4007 and pi pico W. worked for the first 10 mins. then ghosts arrive and then it looked like all keys are being pressed. nothing looked like it was shorting on the rail or solders on the pico. desolder & now the pico is junked. tried again 2 more times. all scrap now. i dunno man. i buy multiples of this stuff becuase i know ill fuck up the first one. but at this point, i think this excursion is a dud. used circuit pi and matrixpad. also tried individual hookups because its only 16 wires. either ghosts or the board dies. im pretty sure im careful with shorts. really annoyed with myself.
Great video. For labeling keycaps: There are two alternative ways to label 3d printed keycaps with much finer resolution: a) for light coloured keycaps: DyeSub. There are a lot of videos on YT how to DyeSub your own keycaps. I have tried it myself, it works quite well (also on resin printed keycaps). If using FDM-printed keycaps, you should use at least ABS/ASA and also wetsanding the surface to get optimal contact to the transfer paper. b) Fibre Laser. This is the best method if you want to label dark keycaps. Many (not all) filaments use dye wich is destroyed if exposed to 1056 nm laser. If correctly tuned to your filament (and the dye in the filament is destoyable by fibre lasers), you can get great results. It uses a lot of experiments to get optimal results (I have not done it myself yet, but there are great videos out there) and a fibre laser isn´t cheap (staring at about 1.5k). Actually I plan to try it in about 2 years - I would like to see if it works on dark resin also, as resin printing imho is the best way to do selfmade keycaps.
Just a reminder for anyone that isn't aware, all my handwired boards are available for free so you can build them yourself! You can read more about the Scotto108 and find the files to build it over on my website: scottokeebs.com/blogs/keyboards/scotto108-handwired-keyboard
Before entering into my own keyboard journey, which lead to the creation of the Kaly, this videos keyboard is exactly the one I originally wished for! 100% ortholinear seems pretty good for games and day to day use! Great work!
Too large for me haha but glad you like it!
This is awesome. I hope your family enjoys your builds!
So far they do :)
Currently Building my first hardwired Keyboard, its also close to this size and this was some neat reference!
Man dual filament prints look great and suprisingly smooth, though aesthetically I prefer all blank resin ones.
The repo also has blanks that you could print in resin :)
Very nice looking builds, Joe.
You inspired me to take the plunge and i'm just about to begin a 48 key split to my own design once the last few bits arrive in the delayed holiday post. It's all rather exciting.
Thanks for all your great videos, and have a wonderful next year.
Great content, very informative, keep it up
Thank you :)
Great work! How do you print a case that big?
Thanks! I printed it on a Neptune 4 Max with a 420x420 build plate, it barely fit
Good video!
I'm building an ABNT 6x17 keyboard with 86 keys, your videos are extremely helpful, but unfortunately I got stuck on the compilation part for the rp2040, could you help me with that?
I apologize for my English, it is not my native language.
Have your parents had issues adjusting to the ortho layout on these boards?
Took them about a week but now they use hem everyday.
This is amazing creation. I would love to be able to buy the keycaps. If you made it hot-swappable, even if it is just outemu hotwappable, you can have a product to sell. Your designs are just cool.
Since it is a fairly elongated keyboard, If you wire the matrix to the mcu as simple interleaved you can get away with 23 pins only.
Not much of an advantage in this case anyways, though. (21+6 would become 11+12)
Damn G, Outemus and aliexpress stabs for your dad? That is cold
They’re actually quite good, especially for the price
I'm curious, how did you insulate the copper for the rows?
Heat shrink tubing.
Pretty cool. I’m questioning as to why you didn’t go with comic sans for these boards as well
I originally did but then designed these new caps and decided to go with them.
Nice! By the way - did your parents and lil bro get used to ortholinear layout and uniform keycaps?
Yup, they’ve been using them daily ever since
@@joe_scotto I had troubles getting used to ortholinear kit I assembled, must be a deep habit of using staggered keyboards for years. Then again, videos on your channel got me thinking "hm, building a keyboard of any shape and form that is comfy for me and get it handwired is something I can actually do".
hello，What color filament is this
This one: amzn.to/4axCyTk
thanks@@joe_scotto
hey, can you link the type c rp 2040 board that you used in this video?
scottokeebs.com/products/raspberry-pi-pico
@@joe_scotto Thanks!
Expected lifetime if a beginner would try to build it?
PS you got a new sub
I love it! I'm curious what 3d printer do you use to print your parts? settings would be cool too. i wanted to 3d print the parts the interface with keyboard switches but i'm not sure what tolerances would be acceptable
Looks like bambu lab P1S or maybe X1C. They just came out with the A1 Mini and it looks like a beast for the price. I personally have a P1P and really love it. If I were to buy one again I would either get the P1S if I had the money or the A1 for budget option (P1P kinda sits in a bit of a grey area where it may not be the best budget decision due to the release of the A1). Overall very high quality printers but I would still do my own research if I were you! As far as settings go... no clue
@@Blakediamond69420 Thanks for the suggestions. Currently, i run a highly modded micron (basically small voron 2.4). i can't guarantee you on the tolerances but it's definitely quite good at printing fast. Main problem too is that i'd have to build another one if i wanted to print a keyboard chassis in one piece. especially since bambu labs were a thing, it seems it's a better deal to just buy something rather than build another one
I use a combination of Ender-3s (Pro and Max), Bambu P1S (Multicolor), and Neptune 4 Max for really large boards.
i tried making a simple 4x4 macropad. gateron and 1n4007 and pi pico W. worked for the first 10 mins. then ghosts arrive and then it looked like all keys are being pressed. nothing looked like it was shorting on the rail or solders on the pico. desolder & now the pico is junked. tried again 2 more times. all scrap now. i dunno man. i buy multiples of this stuff becuase i know ill fuck up the first one. but at this point, i think this excursion is a dud. used circuit pi and matrixpad. also tried individual hookups because its only 16 wires. either ghosts or the board dies. im pretty sure im careful with shorts. really annoyed with myself.
mhh why not using a shift register?
I didn’t need to because I had enough pins.
Yuhhhhhhh These were AMAZING! Currently designing and building my own keyboard. Im calling it the DigiCore65 (65% keeb).
65% is much more manageable than this 108-key monstrosity lol
@@joe_scotto absolutely
Great video.
For labeling keycaps: There are two alternative ways to label 3d printed keycaps with much finer resolution:
a) for light coloured keycaps: DyeSub. There are a lot of videos on YT how to DyeSub your own keycaps. I have tried it myself, it works quite well (also on resin printed keycaps). If using FDM-printed keycaps, you should use at least ABS/ASA and also wetsanding the surface to get optimal contact to the transfer paper.
b) Fibre Laser. This is the best method if you want to label dark keycaps. Many (not all) filaments use dye wich is destroyed if exposed to 1056 nm laser. If correctly tuned to your filament (and the dye in the filament is destoyable by fibre lasers), you can get great results. It uses a lot of experiments to get optimal results (I have not done it myself yet, but there are great videos out there) and a fibre laser isn´t cheap (staring at about 1.5k). Actually I plan to try it in about 2 years - I would like to see if it works on dark resin also, as resin printing imho is the best way to do selfmade keycaps.