sorry to bother you. could you please tell me how many RPM is the required motor for this build? your amazon link default to 10rpm and i think it is way too slow compared to your videos. thank you for your time!
@@msgbean humm ok thank you. i have a 55rpm motor at the ready that is the exact same shape, but i will need to make tests to see if i can throttle it down so much it match the expectation of your invention. have you tried a similar speed motor before?
@@Francois_Dupont I have not but I think that would be way to high. Even with a 10rpm motor I'm typically am running about 6-7 rpm for most cartridges with a 5" pan.
Excellent work. The two hopper systems are brilliant. I don't have a 3-D printer but I had been futzing with a birch plywood hopper and trip gate mechanism similar to your first version using a stud on the rotating drum to drop a single cartridge. Thanks for the video.
Some say you are less than a god but more than a man! This is the best design hands down for the DIY!!!! Especially with the kit you offer and free assembly plans! Just friggin WOW! Going to order a kit or two here soon and do this! I've been sitting on the pans and electronics for my DIY Annealer for a couple years and was just gearing up to build one. Found your video when I was refreshing myself on design ideas. Hope I can salvage some f my parts to work with your kit.
Thank you for the kind words. My goal was for it to be light and compact but loaded with features and as cheap as possible but effective for the DIYer. I have seen so many designs that are massive and I didn't want to store something like that. Just trying to do my part in helping the reloading community.
@@msgbean I am getting ready to do 223 to 300 balckout cases and this is one reason for the annealer. I want to soften the new necks prior to resizing to new caliber. Will this design handle that short of a case? Or maybe get a secone 5" pan and cut it shorter for the shorter case?
@@jonbraddock5545 I do recommend having a second drum cut to 3/4" for blackout which will also work great for .223. Any thing bigger I would suggest sticking with the original 1 3/8" drum which will work for .223 through 30-06.
@@msgbean Roger that. Hope to get an order in this week. I have automotive bearing installed tools and have tap bearings in many times on cars and bikes. Is the bearing install pretty straight forward or anything different with the 3D material?
@@jonbraddock5545 You just need to slide them on by hand. Maybe a little straight tap with a hammer. I tried to keep tolerances fairly close but to close and plastic will break.
Excellent engineering! I did the basic one without the hopper and annealed thousands of cases but really wished I could have a hopper I could load so I could do something else while keeping the eye on the annealer and you found the solution - Bravo!
Thank you Rich, TinMan sent me over to see this. I am also working on a different feed method using a solenoid to control the feed wheel. Can't tell you all the DIY vid's I've looked at and am most impressed with yours. Thanks again! ... charlie
Thanks for sharing your designs both are very cool. The feed mechanisms show that a great deal of thought was put into them. While I like both the first one is my favorite. The second one's ability to adjust is so well thought out it puts many here on the tube to shame.
Mr. Bean, in 3D printing some of the item, I noticed the magnets in the cartridge holder and the cartridge drum do not line up. Also the cartridge axle end with the hex is way to large to fit the hex hole on the cartridge drum. Other than these small issues. I appreciate all your time, ingenuity and energy not to mention your graciousness, in allowing us to use your design and drawings to build this brass annealer. Thank you, Sir!
The depressions for the magnets are symmetrical and both pieces are tangent with each other. I don't see how the magnets could not line up with each other unless there is a problem with your printer. The hex axle should be a nice fit to prevent slop. Unfortunately, not everyone's printer prints the same. The way my printer prints the part is perfect.
As per usual Richard, excellent ideas. I kind of dig the ladder style hopper you came up with. And yours is still on my want/wish list. Just seems other stuff always claims any cash first. :/
Mr Bean I live your ingenuity. Fantastic design. Could you give a little more details on the arm that stops the shell in the flame and the magnets you incorporated.
I used a 1/4' rod and threaded both ends but you could just as easy use a threaded rod. The magnets are 12x2 neodymium magnets. If you go to the Thingiverse link you can download the document with the dimensions of the rod. There is also a parts list with links.
Mr. Bean thank you again for your innovation. I had a favor to ask, would it be possible for you to do a how to build video where you guide us through the assembly of the annealing machine. I know you have been gracious in putting the drawings and instructions on thing verse. However based on all the questions posted, people are still confused. If you did an assembly video I think it would clear up all the questions and more people would use your creation. I for one am thankful for all you have done to advance my reloading journey.
One of the best thought out designs I've seen. A couple of questions: 1) are the gear ratios the same for both the main annealing tub and the case feeder wheel? If so, don't they get out of sync at some point? 2) Will the hopper hold a full load of cases that have some body taper to them? I've seen other designs with a similar hopper and the upper cases tend to slide out as the higher it is filled, the more forward tilt they have due to the taper. Thanks!
The gear ratios are 1:1. All three gears are the same size so they don't get out of sync. The face of the annealer is inclined 15 degrees so it will hold 300 rounds of .223 without falling out.
Hmmm, got all my parts now (motor, etc)...still going to have to figure a way to adjust the depth of the main tub and feed mechanism. I need to anneal 300 blackout (case length 1.38" up to large stuff). The default tub depth is too deep for 300 Blackout, but if I cut it shorter, then the big stuff won't fit right. I could a shim plate inside the tub (I've seen that on other annealers), but how to adjust the feed side too. I'll have fiddle with that some.
I think all you would need to do is print some longer standoffs and use some longer bolts for the hopper and feed ramp. Currently they are 1/8" standoffs behind them. I think you could safely use 1/2" and still have enough axle to drive the cartridge drum.
Hi there Big fan of this video, I am going to build one myself.. Question though, since I live in Denmark, buying and shipment + toll of the printed parts will run up. But I have a 3D printer myself. Will it be possible to obtain the STL for the printed parts, or is that not for sharing? BR Jesper Denmark.
I'm sorry but I don't share the files at this time. My V2.2 is still available though. I have shipped many to Europe and it is usually between $25-$30.
Hi Mr. Bean, I very much appreciate your providing of the specs for the machine and printed parts. I have a 3d printer so it has been no problem. It works great. Question: I have noticed that the metal drum gets quite hot after about ten or so annealed brass. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? I am using a pencil torch which keeps the broad flame down but still gets hot. Is it a problem for the plastic parts? Should I not worry about it and just keep annealing? Thanks for any help you can give. Barry
It's going to get hot because the hot cartridges rolling around on it can't be avoided. I've done 100s of rounds without a problem. I print with PETG but if you use PLA it has a more likely chance at melting.
One of the files you download at thingiverse is a file called Annealer_Misc_Parts.pdf. It lists all the extra stuff. (Edit 11-24-21: It is now in a file called Annealer_Insturctions.pdf)
Sorry about that. I had to pull them because I had a sudden surge in orders and I need to get caught up before I'm over whelmed. Hopefully I will have them back up beginning of next week.
@@msgbean i found it, thanks a lot, one link on thingiverse is not working but i founded all right, thanks a lot, in a few days i will build mine, thanks a lot for this, here in brasil a machine would cost tooo much, you helped me a lot
Excellent work!! Do you sell these? Or even just the 3D printed/magnet assembly.. I want to build one but I'm intimidated with the motor and speed controller..,
My friend had some issues with his 3D printer, but he managed to get things fixed and I I now have all the printed parts. Is there any way you could post a list of the specific other parts for your build? Motor, motor RPM, magnets, etc and where you got them? Also, what kind of glue did you use for the magnets? I've tried gluing things to 3d printed parts before without much luck. May parts are ABS, except the brass rotating drum is PLA.
In the downloads there is a file called Annealer_Misc_Parts.pdf. It lists all other additional parts. I use epoxy to glue the magnets. Make sure you rough up both sides before gluing. (Edit 11-24-21: It is now in a file called Annealer_Insturctions.pdf)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JHVJYL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Everything you need to know is at the thingiverse link in the description.
Thanks for the comment. If you build them $100 will get you both ha ha. I did toy with the idea of making a DIY kit and just supply all of the components.
I used different motors in the two models but I recommend the following: tinyurl.com/y2rxg72e tinyurl.com/y33vaxnu tinyurl.com/y367f5gg Almost everything else I 3d printed or is wood.
Right now I am working on another project that I plan on sharing then I plan on getting all of the documentation together for the annealer and sharing it.
Well, I managed to build it and get it going! Just need to finish my idea for handling shorter cases. I am going to make a small plate that will attach to the holding rod with magnets. It will act like a ramp that will push the shorter cases out once they fall to the bottom of the tub. That way, there is no need use the bottom plate in the tub that screws in and out and the associated adjusting feed mechanism to keep things lined up. You just snap it on and go, take it off for longer cases. But...that will have to wait as I am leaving tomorrow for Indiana (my oldest daughter is getting married Saturday!). Anyway, here it is on its first run to check feeding with 243 cases: ruclips.net/video/ueEqrMObCXQ/видео.html
I have printed parts kits available for sell at msgbean.etsy.com/
List of other components
Please
sorry to bother you. could you please tell me how many RPM is the required motor for this build? your amazon link default to 10rpm and i think it is way too slow compared to your videos.
thank you for your time!
@@Francois_Dupont The motor is 10rpm.
@@msgbean humm ok thank you. i have a 55rpm motor at the ready that is the exact same shape, but i will need to make tests to see if i can throttle it down so much it match the expectation of your invention.
have you tried a similar speed motor before?
@@Francois_Dupont I have not but I think that would be way to high. Even with a 10rpm motor I'm typically am running about 6-7 rpm for most cartridges with a 5" pan.
Excellent work. The two hopper systems are brilliant. I don't have a 3-D printer but I had been futzing with a birch plywood hopper and trip gate mechanism similar to your first version using a stud on the rotating drum to drop a single cartridge. Thanks for the video.
Just so you know I can always sell you a kit with plans.
Kit ordered (w/arm & guide). Charlie P. 👍
Some say you are less than a god but more than a man! This is the best design hands down for the DIY!!!! Especially with the kit you offer and free assembly plans! Just friggin WOW! Going to order a kit or two here soon and do this! I've been sitting on the pans and electronics for my DIY Annealer for a couple years and was just gearing up to build one. Found your video when I was refreshing myself on design ideas. Hope I can salvage some f my parts to work with your kit.
Thank you for the kind words. My goal was for it to be light and compact but loaded with features and as cheap as possible but effective for the DIYer. I have seen so many designs that are massive and I didn't want to store something like that. Just trying to do my part in helping the reloading community.
@@msgbean I am getting ready to do 223 to 300 balckout cases and this is one reason for the annealer. I want to soften the new necks prior to resizing to new caliber.
Will this design handle that short of a case? Or maybe get a secone 5" pan and cut it shorter for the shorter case?
@@jonbraddock5545 I do recommend having a second drum cut to 3/4" for blackout which will also work great for .223. Any thing bigger I would suggest sticking with the original 1 3/8" drum which will work for .223 through 30-06.
@@msgbean Roger that. Hope to get an order in this week. I have automotive bearing installed tools and have tap bearings in many times on cars and bikes. Is the bearing install pretty straight forward or anything different with the 3D material?
@@jonbraddock5545 You just need to slide them on by hand. Maybe a little straight tap with a hammer. I tried to keep tolerances fairly close but to close and plastic will break.
Excellent engineering! I did the basic one without the hopper and annealed thousands of cases but really wished I could have a hopper I could load so I could do something else while keeping the eye on the annealer and you found the solution - Bravo!
Sounds like you need to build another one. :)
Thank you very much, Sir. For taking your time to share and help others.
Nicely done and thought out, big thanks for the links for the different parts.
Thank you for making this video! I really appreciate you for helping me learn how to make an inexpensive annealing machine.
Thank you Rich, TinMan sent me over to see this. I am also working on a different feed method using a solenoid to control the feed wheel. Can't tell you all the DIY vid's I've looked at and am most impressed with yours. Thanks again! ... charlie
Thank you. Good luck on your project.
Great idea with the switchable feeder drum, I hops you don't mind but I borrowed your idea for the feeder on my induction annealer.
Glad to help. Your machine looks great.
Excellent design! Thank you for your great work AND for sharing it in such a clear method.
You can use an ac motor with a light dimmer for speed control.
It would need a digital display so that you can set it at your determined speed for each cartridge or you will have to time it each time.
Thank you very much for giving the files and plans for free.
may god bless you!
Thanks for sharing your designs both are very cool.
The feed mechanisms show that a great deal of thought was put into them.
While I like both the first one is my favorite. The second one's ability to adjust is so well thought out it puts many here on the tube to shame.
Mr. Bean, in 3D printing some of the item, I noticed the magnets in the cartridge holder and the cartridge drum do not line up. Also the cartridge axle end with the hex is way to large to fit the hex hole on the cartridge drum.
Other than these small issues.
I appreciate all your time, ingenuity and energy not to mention your graciousness, in allowing us to use your design and drawings to build this brass annealer. Thank you, Sir!
The depressions for the magnets are symmetrical and both pieces are tangent with each other. I don't see how the magnets could not line up with each other unless there is a problem with your printer. The hex axle should be a nice fit to prevent slop. Unfortunately, not everyone's printer prints the same. The way my printer prints the part is perfect.
Man you are a genius! And thank you for your service
Thank you.
As per usual Richard, excellent ideas. I kind of dig the ladder style hopper you came up with. And yours is still on my want/wish list. Just seems other stuff always claims any cash first. :/
Mr Bean I live your ingenuity. Fantastic design. Could you give a little more details on the arm that stops the shell in the flame and the magnets you incorporated.
I used a 1/4' rod and threaded both ends but you could just as easy use a threaded rod. The magnets are 12x2 neodymium magnets. If you go to the Thingiverse link you can download the document with the dimensions of the rod. There is also a parts list with links.
Mr. Bean thank you again for your innovation. I had a favor to ask, would it be possible for you to do a how to build video where you guide us through the assembly of the annealing machine. I know you have been gracious in putting the drawings and instructions on thing verse. However based on all the questions posted, people are still confused. If you did an assembly video I think it would clear up all the questions and more people would use your creation. I for one am thankful for all you have done to advance my reloading journey.
I am considering this. I am terrible at making the videos but I realize it would be helpful.
I have now created the construction video: ruclips.net/video/vFKDx2Qj00Y/видео.html
This is AWESOME! Thanks for sharing
Amazing design. Time to get printing. lol
One of the best thought out designs I've seen. A couple of questions: 1) are the gear ratios the same for both the main annealing tub and the case feeder wheel? If so, don't they get out of sync at some point? 2) Will the hopper hold a full load of cases that have some body taper to them? I've seen other designs with a similar hopper and the upper cases tend to slide out as the higher it is filled, the more forward tilt they have due to the taper. Thanks!
The gear ratios are 1:1. All three gears are the same size so they don't get out of sync. The face of the annealer is inclined 15 degrees so it will hold 300 rounds of .223 without falling out.
@@msgbean Thank you. Having the parts printed by a friend and going to build one for myself. I'll call it "The Bean Machine" !!
@@edwardlance2379 Dang, I actually like that better than what I thought about calling it, "Annealerator"
That is awesome. Thank you for sharing
👍👍Good old fashioned American ingenuity. 🇺🇲
Very nice job. Awesome👍👍
Hmmm, got all my parts now (motor, etc)...still going to have to figure a way to adjust the depth of the main tub and feed mechanism. I need to anneal 300 blackout (case length 1.38" up to large stuff). The default tub depth is too deep for 300 Blackout, but if I cut it shorter, then the big stuff won't fit right. I could a shim plate inside the tub (I've seen that on other annealers), but how to adjust the feed side too. I'll have fiddle with that some.
I think all you would need to do is print some longer standoffs and use some longer bolts for the hopper and feed ramp. Currently they are 1/8" standoffs behind them. I think you could safely use 1/2" and still have enough axle to drive the cartridge drum.
Very cool cat on the flor of 0:38 sec.!!!
Good job on your build
Hi there
Big fan of this video, I am going to build one myself..
Question though, since I live in Denmark, buying and shipment + toll of the printed parts will run up. But I have a 3D printer myself. Will it be possible to obtain the STL for the printed parts, or is that not for sharing?
BR
Jesper
Denmark.
I'm sorry but I don't share the files at this time. My V2.2 is still available though. I have shipped many to Europe and it is usually between $25-$30.
Great design!
Well done!!
Hi Mr. Bean, I very much appreciate your providing of the specs for the machine and printed parts. I have a 3d printer so it has been no problem. It works great. Question: I have noticed that the metal drum gets quite hot after about ten or so annealed brass. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong? I am using a pencil torch which keeps the broad flame down but still gets hot. Is it a problem for the plastic parts? Should I not worry about it and just keep annealing? Thanks for any help you can give. Barry
It's going to get hot because the hot cartridges rolling around on it can't be avoided. I've done 100s of rounds without a problem. I print with PETG but if you use PLA it has a more likely chance at melting.
@@msgbean Thank you, Richard. I will print my next machine with PETG. Much appreciated.
very nice job
Would it be possible to add a parts list beyond the 3d printed items? Would be interested in what motor/drum/u bolt/display/etc you are running.
One of the files you download at thingiverse is a file called Annealer_Misc_Parts.pdf. It lists all the extra stuff. (Edit 11-24-21: It is now in a file called Annealer_Insturctions.pdf)
Are you selling the parts yet? But ideally I'd like the file to print the the part myself. Thanks
V2.2 parts are free to print but not V3.
Your Etsy page says "products missing". Are they still for sale?
Sorry about that. I had to pull them because I had a sudden surge in orders and I need to get caught up before I'm over whelmed. Hopefully I will have them back up beginning of next week.
Hey bro, how can i get acess of your Complete build instructions?
The link to the instructions are in the description of the item.
@@msgbean i found it, thanks a lot, one link on thingiverse is not working but i founded all right, thanks a lot, in a few days i will build mine, thanks a lot for this, here in brasil a machine would cost tooo much, you helped me a lot
Do you have the file your are willing to share for the red brass ramp you made?
So you would like file for the red ladder type hopper in my initial design?
@@msgbean yes
@@justinllewellyn5822 Send me your email address and I will send it to you.
Excellent work!! Do you sell these? Or even just the 3D printed/magnet assembly.. I want to build one but I'm intimidated with the motor and speed controller..,
I now see the printed stuff for sale on Etsy!
My friend had some issues with his 3D printer, but he managed to get things fixed and I I now have all the printed parts. Is there any way you could post a list of the specific other parts for your build? Motor, motor RPM, magnets, etc and where you got them? Also, what kind of glue did you use for the magnets? I've tried gluing things to 3d printed parts before without much luck. May parts are ABS, except the brass rotating drum is PLA.
In the downloads there is a file called Annealer_Misc_Parts.pdf. It lists all other additional parts. I use epoxy to glue the magnets. Make sure you rough up both sides before gluing. (Edit 11-24-21: It is now in a file called Annealer_Insturctions.pdf)
@@msgbean Ah, so it does. Teach me not to pay attention :-) Thank you!
Do you sale the 3d printed parts for to build
Yes. www.etsy.com/shop/msgbean/?etsrc=sdt
That is awsome
would you happen to have the older hopper from you first design on thingiverse
No but send me your email and I can send you the file.
Great job on both of your units and very innovative. What are you using for the pan shaped disc to hold the cartridges ?
That is just a 2x5 cake pan from amazon. I cut it down to 1 1/2".
@@msgbean Thanks Richard !
May I ask what motor you used?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078JHVJYL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Everything you need to know is at the thingiverse link in the description.
@@msgbean thank you!
You sir are genius! Which one does 100 dollars buy me? Nice and compact.
Thanks for the comment. If you build them $100 will get you both ha ha. I did toy with the idea of making a DIY kit and just supply all of the components.
@@msgbean That sounds great!
@@msgbean I would buy a kit from you.
@@msgbean is the kit ready to buy yet?! Or version one for sale?
Is the kit ready yet? Version 2.
I am having the pieces printed locally... thanks for providing the specs. How did you attach the magnets? Glue? What type? Thanks again!
Superglue or Epoxy will work fine.
@@msgbean , thanks!
Would you provide a link to the parts that you used?
I used different motors in the two models but I recommend the following:
tinyurl.com/y2rxg72e
tinyurl.com/y33vaxnu
tinyurl.com/y367f5gg
Almost everything else I 3d printed or is wood.
@Erik Hohenfels The link above and the one on Thingaverse bring up the same motor.
For some reason the speed controller link takes you to a different product. Here is the speed controller I have. tinyurl.com/17lpsl05
Love your use of magnets! Also appreciate the gear arrangement... what kind of filament did you use for the 3D printing?
I used PETG
would you be willing to duplicate the printed parts for sale?
I'm toying with the idea but I don't think I'm quite there yet.
The parts are now available at www.etsy.com/listing/1131600193
Would you be willing to share your print files?
I have thought about posting them on thingaverse. I still need to write up some instructions.
@@msgbean If you do, please add a link here. Thanks
@shm267 www.thingiverse.com/thing:4751599
@@msgbean Thank you sir!
Can I buy just the 3D printed parts from you
I'm seriously considering this. I've got to get all the details of doing it worked out.
What 3D material do you use? ABS or ?
When you get it figured out please let me know, I will buy one immediately!!
The parts are now available at www.etsy.com/listing/1131600193
Would you sell the hopper system
The parts are now available at www.etsy.com/listing/1131600193
Mr.Bean I would love to make one can would you supply parts and motor-speed controller sources. I am sure several people would buy them from you
Right now I am working on another project that I plan on sharing then I plan on getting all of the documentation together for the annealer and sharing it.
The parts are now available at www.etsy.com/listing/1131600193
Would you build and sell one?
The links to buy a parts kit with instructions is in the description. www.etsy.com/shop/msgbean/
@@msgbean thanks
Would you make one to sell
Not at this time.
The parts are now available at www.etsy.com/listing/1131600193
Well, I managed to build it and get it going! Just need to finish my idea for handling shorter cases. I am going to make a small plate that will attach to the holding rod with magnets. It will act like a ramp that will push the shorter cases out once they fall to the bottom of the tub. That way, there is no need use the bottom plate in the tub that screws in and out and the associated adjusting feed mechanism to keep things lined up. You just snap it on and go, take it off for longer cases. But...that will have to wait as I am leaving tomorrow for Indiana (my oldest daughter is getting married Saturday!).
Anyway, here it is on its first run to check feeding with 243 cases:
ruclips.net/video/ueEqrMObCXQ/видео.html
Good job. I'm glad it's working out for you.
You should sell these things
The parts are now available at www.etsy.com/listing/1131600193